The face is a window on the soul. As social animals, human beings are very adept at reading moods and even signs of illness or well-being just by looking at a person's face. The eyes play an important role, but so does the skin. Blushing or pale, vibrant or dull, the way we feel is expressed almost instantly in our complexion. The existence of such a brain-skin axis is supported by science, and even helps explain why some skin conditions can have mental origins. However, as studies show, this phenomenon also works in the opposite direction: healthy skin can have a positive effect on our mood. This is what led Clariant to develop its holistic concept known as "The Joyologist". It consists of skin care formulations and complete beauty routines that soothe both skin and mind.
"Taking care of ourselves is extremely important, especially in a world filled with troubling news that affects our mental well-being.explains Amandine Werle, marketing specialist for Clariant Actives & Natural Origins and one of the people behind "The Joyologist" concept. Lonsumers are looking for ways to take better care of themselves, and beauty rituals are one of them. Treating the skin with products that provide a sense of comfort can help improve mood by stimulating the release of feel-good molecules such as serotonin and melatonin. This has a positive impact on the skin and sets off a virtuous circle.
Roots and sunshine
Rootness Mood+ is a recent innovation from Clariant that takes full advantage of this effect. It is based on a natural active ingredient obtained from the roots of Sanguisorba officinalis using patented Plant Milking technology. Sanguisorba officinalis, more commonly known as burnet, is used in traditional Chinese medicine for its haemostatic, astringent and wound-healing properties. ("Sanguisorba" literally means "anti-blood" in Latin.) However, Rootness Mood+ uses a different effect: as studies have shown, extracts of Sanguisorba officinalis root help trigger the skin's photoreceptors and promote vitamin D absorption.
Vitamin D plays a key role in the production of certain hormones. Around 90 % of the human daily requirement of vitamin D is produced by the skin and triggered by exposure to sunlight. This is why natural light offers essential health benefits, from preventing seasonal affective disorder to improving sleep. However, with modern lifestyles tending to spend more and more time indoors, it is estimated that around 75 % of the world's population is already vitamin D deficient.
Laboratory proof
The idea behind Rootness Mood+ is to use Sanguisorba officinalis root extracts to enhance the beneficial effects of sunlight on human skin. To test this idea, Clariant's research team, based in Toulouse, France, first treated skin explants in the laboratory with Rootness Mood+ under artificial sunlight. It found that photoreceptors and specific vitamin D transporters in the cells were activated, and that this also led to an increase in serotonin and melatonin of 55 % and 120 %, respectively.
A subsequent clinical study recruited 36 participants aged between 30 and 50, all of whom reported a sullen mood and dull facial complexion. "The trial was conducted in a double-blind fashion by a research laboratory contracted as an independent third party using two randomized groups."explains Adam Buso, formulation specialist for Clariant Actives and Natural Origins. Twice a day, one group of participants applied a product containing 1 % of Rootness Mood+ all over their face, while the other group used a placebo. For around a month, researchers documented the effects on skin and mood using questionnaires, visual assessments, laboratory tests and even an electroencephalography (EEG) machine, which measures certain brain waves linked to relaxation.
A helping hand
The effects were astonishing: relaxation levels, as recorded by the EEG machine, increased by 279 % for the study group, while no change was observed in the control group. "This mood-boosting effect is equal to that of a yoga session.73 % of volunteers reported feeling invigorated after using the product containing Rootness Mood+, compared with 50 % with the placebo. There were visible improvements in skin tone and a significant reduction in carbonylated proteins, a group of stress-related compounds present in the outermost layer of the skin and known to cause a dull complexion.
Based on these discoveries, Clariant has developed Feel-Good Magic Stick. This aqueous gel stick makes it particularly easy to apply Rootness Mood+ whenever the need arises for a boost in well-being. The stick contains additional active ingredients such as B-Circadin, which helps resynchronize the skin cells' biological clock, and HerbEx turmeric extract, which increases the skin's resistance to stress.
Going further
"While our stick can be used at any time and on the move, we also have solutions that address the need for deeper relaxation, for example after a long, busy day."explains Bruna Aline Da Silva Merigiolli, formulation specialist for Clariant Actives and Natural Origins.
Bruna Aline Da Silva Merigiolli helped develop what Clariant calls the "Forget-It-All Relaxing Mask". The main active ingredient is Clariant's Beracare CBA, a unique blend of copaiba oil and passion fruit seed oil.
Copaiba oil is extracted from the resin of the Copaiba tree, native to Brazil. "It is particularly rich in β-caryophyllene, a phytocannabinoid known to interact with the skin's endocannabinoid system."explains Bruna Aline Da Silva Merigiolli. This enables it to modulate cellular signals to reduce irritation and calm the skin. According to recent trials, it is even more effective than cannabidiol or CBD-based products, which have recently gained in popularity but are derived from cannabis plants and are increasingly being monitored by regulatory bodies. What's more, the active ingredients in Beraca CBA also help to rebalance the microbiome of sensitive skin by down-regulating certain bacteria linked to inflammation.
Rootness Mood+ and Beracare CBA both received the BSB Innovation Award 2023. In addition, Rootness Mood+ won an award in the technology category at this year's Cosmetic Ingredients & Technology Exhibition Japan (Cite).
