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Essential oils: latest scientific advances

The 4th edition of Aromadays, organized by Cosmed and the HE Consortium, will be held on 1 and 2 May.er and December 2 in Avignon. In this pivotal year for essential oils, this congress is a must-attend event to showcase the special features of essential oils.

- The European Commission will present a preview of the new proposals to revise the Reach and CLP regulations, which since 2021 have been the subject of campaigns such as "EO in Danger" by EO producers and professionals.

- FranceAgriMer, under the supervision of the French Ministry of Agriculture, will present the results of their first study (to be completed in September 2022) on the provenance of the PPAM (Perfumed, Aromatic and Medicinal Plants) most commonly used in organic cosmetics, and the levers for promoting a French origin.

- Pierre Fabre will complement these presentations on HE sourcing with feedback on their experience in securing supplies for sustainable sourcing.

- The subject of EO quality is also a highly critical one, and will be discussed at length during the congress. Indeed, essential oils are particularly affected by the risk of fraud/adulteration (e.g. blending with a close and less expensive EO, dilution, addition of synthetic compounds...) and the impact of fraud is far from negligible on the average quality of EOs. DNA Gensee and Botanicert will be presenting complementary innovations for the botanical and phytochemical identification of EOs to meet the quality expectations of various industries (cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, food supplements, etc.).

- The first cosmetics consortium, "ADN & Cosmétique", dedicated to the traceability of natural resources, which brings together major players in the perfumery and cosmetics industries (L'Oreal Research Innovation, LVMH Recherche, Laboratoire Clarins, Groupe Nuxe, CRODA, Greentech), will also be presenting its activities.

- For the 2nd day of Aromadays, Professor Robert Tisserand (author of the Essential Oil Safety "Bible"), Professor Patrice Rat from the University of Paris and the Léa Nature Laboratory will demonstrate, with scientific studies, why it is important to consider essential oils in their entirety, and not try to deduce their properties from data on their constituents.

- The latest scientific work by the EO Consortium highlights the value of EO blends in improving EO stability and preventing oxidation, a feature never before described in the literature. This research underscores the importance of protecting EOs from oxidation to control the risk of skin sensitization.

There will also be many other conferences on safety assessment, formulation and the constantly developing field of clinical aromatherapy.

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