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Sensient Beauty acquires Biolie, expert in white biotechnology

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Bolie x Sensient

Biolie, a raw materials manufacturer specializing in white biotechnology for the development of natural cosmetic ingredients, has developed a patented solvent-free enzymatic extraction technology for natural ingredients. The French SME has been acquired by US company Sensient Technologies Corporation, a global specialist in color and personal care applications. The acquisition was finalized on February 14, 2025.

"We are delighted with the strategic fit between our two companies, which confirms our position as a global leader in the supply of natural, sustainable actives and colorants to the personal care industry."said Mike Geraghty, President of Sensient Colors.

"The acquisition gives us access to Biolie's biotechnological process, which will enhance our portfolio of active colorants."added Gaelle Frere, Managing Director of Sensient Beauty.

"Sensient expands the availability of Biolie technology worldwide, our natural products with enhanced performance will now be able to offer customized innovation and value to brands worldwide."said Nicolas Attenot, founder, President and COO of Biolie.

The acquisition expands Sensient's manufacturing and innovation footprint in France. Sensient Beauty - the trade name used by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies, a subsidiary of Sensient Technologies Corporation - is headquartered and has its main production facility in Saint-Ouen l'Aumône (95).

25th Cosmed Regulatory Congress

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audience-2816353_1280

Two days to keep abreast of regulatory developments! Cosmed, the trade association representing cosmetics companies in France, is organizing the 25th edition of its Regulatory Congress, on March 26 and 27, 2025 in Paris and streaming. 

During the two-day event, company directors and managers in charge of regulatory affairs, R&D, toxicology and quality engineering will be able to discuss their issues with regulatory authorities, partner associations and other industry professionals, while learning about future challenges.

This benchmark event brings together regulatory experts from the cosmetics industry and welcomes representatives from the main competent authorities: European Commission, EFfCI, Anses, DGCCRF and Iba. (Independent Beauty Association). Over 300 professionals are expected to attend.

A program to anticipate regulatory changes

Renowned specialists and institutional representatives will be on hand to provide a clear and operational vision of current and future regulatory changes through a number of key events:

- Regulatory news: deciphering European and international developments.

- Round tables: discussions with authorities and key industry players on microplastics and international labeling.

- Ingredient panoramas: focus on developments concerning substances (filters, chemical inventories, controversial ingredients, CLP).

- Export conferences: international regulations and market opportunities in China, the USA and South Korea.

A hybrid event

The regulatory congress will be accessible both in person in Paris and via streaming. This hybrid format will enable a wider audience, in France and abroad, to access the strategic content and discussions with the experts.

Registration and detailed program available here: https://www.cosmed.fr/congres-reglementaire-cosmetique/

Image: Carmen Carbonell / Pixabay

Parfums d'Orsay chooses TNT Group

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TNT Group Maison d'Orsay

The cloche box designed by TNT Group for Parfums d'Orsay is made of cardboard with green striated paper, inside and out, including the wedge, and comes in two formats. It dresses the collection of three Extraits de Parfums D'Orsay, 50 and 90 ml, Flower Lust, Incense Crush and Tonka Hysteria.

The black debossed logo signs the six creations, identified by personalized labels applied on demand. The design of this packaging, with its meticulous finishes, is in line with a logic of optimizing the supply chain by reducing the number of components.

Founded by Alfred d'Orsay during the Napoleonic era, the House of Orsay has always stood for sensuality, universality and uniqueness. "Each Extrait de Parfum D'Orsay is a powerful love potion. Conceived around a raw material overdosed to seduce, bewitch or leave you wanting more, they invade the space with their addictive essence".explains the brand.

Samantha Mane becomes President of the Mane Group

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Samantha Mane - Justine_Nerini

Mane, French specialist in fragrances and flavours and 5e has announced that Samantha Mane is to become President of the family-owned group.

At the age of 40, Samantha Mane, one of the five members of the fifth generation of the Mane family to join the company, succeeds her father Jean Mane, who ran the business from 1995 to 2024. She chose to join the group in 2006 and officially joined in 2007.

There, she rose through the ranks and gained experience within the company. In 2016, her recognized skills and leadership led her to take charge of the Group's Europe Middle East & Africa (EMEA) region, Mane's most important in terms of activity. 

" It is with great enthusiasm and pride that I take on this new responsibility today, happy to continue this family and entrepreneurial adventure and to lead a Group with such a rich human resource base and innovative spirit.says Samantha Mane. Our independence and family ownership have enabled us to make bold choices over the past 154 years, and to take a long-term view. I want to build on the group's roots, its values, its creative and demanding spirit, which make it unique, with the overriding concern to preserve the environment.. "

Samantha Mane is also vice-president of Prodarom, the union representing the national industry of manufacturers of ingredients and compositions for perfumery.

Samantha Mane has already led major transformations and driven strategic shifts, such as the creation of the Paris flagship dedicated to Fine Fragrance, the implementation of operational excellence projects, and the digitalization of the company.

Under his leadership, sales in the EMEA region more than doubled between 2016 and 2024, despite the Covid crisis. 

Samantha Mane has implemented the Group's market development strategy in Africa. She is successfully committed to maintaining the strong capacity for innovation at the company's French headquarters, where 20 % of employees are dedicated to the R&D sector. She has promoted the different types of customer, by encouraging industrial partnerships, while developing employment. Committed to the Group's environmental initiatives, she has just joined the Convention des entreprises pour le climat.

The Mane Group was founded in 1871 by Victor Mane in Le Bar-sur-Loup (06). Today, it is present in 39 countries, with 50 R&D centers and 29 production sites. It employs 8,000 people.

Gattefossé offers a new active ingredient derived from sea buckthorn

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Gattefossé - (c)felix-audette_0053

French cosmetics ingredients manufacturer Gattefossé is stepping up the study of waste products to produce high-quality bioactives, and is offering two ingredients made from the untapped leaves of the sea buckthorn tree.

In Gattefossé's CSR roadmap, Gatt'Up&Act, responsible waste management, is a strategic issue.

"In addition to implementing a waste management system, we also integrate upcycling into our approach to innovation. Waste recovery is fully integrated from the earliest stages of development. This approach has intensified in recent years. A number of current projects use upcycling as a lever to create sustainable, responsible and efficient products, explains Laurent Schubnel, CSR Manager for the Gattefossé Group.

With this in mind, the company decided to exploit the full potential of sea buckthorn leaves (Hippophae rhamnoides), hitherto untapped. Two ingredients have emerged from this research: Eyeglorius, launched in 2024, and Noxifense, a new active ingredient.

A highly nutritious and versatile plant

Sea buckthorn boasts an abundance of phenolic acids, lipophilic compounds, vitamins and organic acids, giving the plant real biological potential.

The Gattefossé research team turned its attention to the leaves of this shrub. Work to secure the plant's supply led the company to Quebec, Canada, to a family orchard dedicated to growing it organically and processing its berries into food products. In September, when the fruit branches are cut off by hand, enabling the trees to be pruned, Gattefossé recovers the leaves once separated from the fruit, which are then transformed into juice, sorbet or jam.

One plant, two bioactives

Following the success of Eyeglorius - a liposoluble anti-fatigue active ingredient obtained by CO2 supercritical and launched in 2024 - Gattefossé announces the upcoming commercial launch of Noxifense. 

This new active ingredient provides a comprehensive approach to skin sensitivity, by reinforcing the skin's defense mechanisms against environmental stress. It is based on the emerging theory of "oxi-inflammation", the harmful interaction between oxidative stress and inflammation. Its soothing effects are achieved through a process that targets specific flavonoid families, renowned for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. 

Noxifense is currently being previewed at the PCHI trade show in China, from February 19 to 21, 2025.

In-cosmetics Global: Amsterdam, April 8-10, 2025

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in-cometics Global

In-cosmetics Global, the world's leading event for personal care ingredients, will be held in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, from April 8 to 10, 2025. It will host over 1,000 exhibitors.

To support brands seeking to meet changing consumer needs, industry leaders such as Basf, Lubrizol, Symrise, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Givaudan Active Beauty, Ashland, GFC Life Science, Evonik and Croda will be presenting innovations that respond to current developments in the sector.

In addition, new exhibitors from all over the world - including Germany, the Netherlands, the USA, Korea, China and India - will be showcased in a dedicated hall, as they aspire to become key players in the international personal care ingredients market.

Responding to changing market trends and priorities

The event will feature several zones and conference rooms, including the marketing trends room, sustainability zone, innovation zone, fragrance zone, sensory bar, make-up bar. It will host technical seminars, a testing and regulatory forum, the formulation laboratory and the testing discovery pavilion. 

At this year's event, the Marketing Trends Theatre will be organized around three main themes: day one will focus on the European and global market, innovation and ingredient trends; day two will highlight key and emerging trends such as wellness and dermocosmetics; while day three will be devoted to the beauty trade and the future of the industry.

The Sustainability Zone, sponsored by AAK, will showcase the latest in green beauty, with sustainable sourcing solutions and eco-friendly formulations shaping the future of the industry. 

Following its launch last year, the Sustainability Zone Forum, organized by Barbara Olioso, CEO of The Green Chemist Consultancy and in-cosmetics Global's Sustainability Advisor, will return in an expanded two-day format on April 8 and 9, 2025, and will now be located on the show floor for easy access. It will cover key topics including regulatory changes, life cycle assessment (LCA) and sustainable packaging.

In addition, Symrise, Mibelle Biochemistry, Probiotical and others will offer attendees exclusive insights into key trends impacting the cosmetics sector, such as skin screening and protection, mood-boosting neurocosmetics, and feminine care in the research and development pipeline.

Explore innovation, sensory experiences and advances in testing 

The popular Innovation Zone, sponsored by Ashland, will highlight cutting-edge ingredient launches, with suppliers showcasing their key functional and active ingredient debuts, reflecting the amount of time and investment devoted to these innovations. Demonstrations in the area will highlight key products and technologies.

Other zones at in-cosmetics Global 2025 include the Fragrance Zone, where prestigious fragrance houses, ingredient producers and distributors will present exquisite aromas and scents. At the nearby Sensory Bar, attendees can discover transformative sensory experiences through innovative personal care formulations.

The Make-Up Bar, meanwhile, will inspire the next generation of color cosmetics, showcasing new pigments and formulations for eyeshadows, foundations, nail polishes and lip lacquers, all available for safe testing. These interactive areas are designed to enable R&D specialists to explore unique sensations and discover bold technologies and colors offered by exhibitors such as Luzi, IFF, Eurofragrance Iberchem S.A.U and MG International Fragrance Company.

New for 2025 is a focus on developments in regulatory testing and standards, designed to help brands justify science-based beauty claims, efficacy and standards. On the third day of the show, the Sustainability Zone forum will transform into a pop-up forum on testing and regulations, in partnership with Skinobs, which will address the latest regulatory updates, provide essential information on product testing and guide attendees through the intricacies of policy-making. The forum will also feature exclusive content on the latest advances in testing, including specialist sessions on longevity and anti-pollution efficacy. The "Testing Discovery Pavilion" and "Boost Your Test" initiatives - also in partnership with Skinobs - will offer a dedicated space for exploring the latest testing methodologies.

Technical seminars

In addition, technical seminars will offer attendees free access to explore the latest ingredients and technologies, with sessions that delve into specifications, scientific data and evidence that highlight how suppliers' innovative concepts can elevate product development strategies. Leading suppliers such as LipoTrue, Eastman, Vantage Personal Care and Sytheon will participate in the presentations.

Meanwhile, the Formulation Lab, sponsored by Brenntag and run by award-winning cosmetics scientist Lorna Radford, will offer formulators hands-on experience of formulating with new ingredients, enabling them to hone their skills and experiment with emerging techniques.

"We're delighted to be returning to the Netherlands next year for in-cosmetics Global 2025. The Netherlands, Germany and the Nordic countries represent important and influential beauty markets, and for 2025 we are particularly excited about deepening our engagement with these important regions.said Roziani Zulkifli, Director of in-cosmetics Global. As always, science, innovation and sustainability remain the backbone of the industry, and the event will continue to support Europe's leadership in cosmetic science. We look forward to showcasing the best in cosmetic science, with expanded exhibition programs and new collaboration opportunities."

Seppic unveils a preview of its new collection of illustration formulations

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Ode to mother nature - Seppic

Seppic has chosen to draw inspiration from the cinema and the emotions it evokes to create new cosmetic formulations, notably for the In-cosmetics Global trade show to be held in Amsterdam from April 08 to 10, 2025. 

"The beauty box office movie hit", a collection of six inspiring formulations for skin care, hair care and nutricosmetics will be presented at the show, reminiscent of hit films and offering real sensory experiences.

As a preview, Seppic now presents the "Ode to mother Nature" formula. Inspired by the film Avatar, this thick, light-green care cream is nourishing and has a medium to long playtime. After massage, skin remains soft, comfortable and non-greasy.

This inspiring formula boasts a naturalness profile of 99.1%*. Used as an emulsifier, the organization of Montanov 202 amphiphilic molecules (Arachidyl behenyl alcohol, Arachidyl glucoside) into lamellar layers, known as liquid crystals, improves both the stability and skin compatibility of the formulation. As these lipids have a structure similar to that of the skin, Montanov 202-based emulsions offer biomimetic textures.

*In accordance with ISO 16128.

L'Oréal invests in Korean perfume brand Borntostandout

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JUN LIM

BorntostandoutBorntostandout, a Korean luxury fragrance house, has completed a Series A financing round led by Touch Capital, a US venture capital fund specializing in consumer goods, and Bold, L'Oréal's corporate venture capital fund. Borntostandout will benefit from the expertise of L'Oréal in international brand development, while Touch Capital will provide strategic insights to strengthen the brand's position in global markets.

This round of financing will also enable Borntostandout to accelerate its physical expansion, particularly in Europe and the United States, while redefining the olfactory discovery experience through innovative retail concepts.

Driven by the vision of its founder Jun Lim, a former financial analyst specializing in the cosmetics sector and a perfume enthusiast, Borntostandout aims to push back the boundaries of olfactory creativity. Founded in 2022, the brand has developed a singular creative approach and artistic positioning, enabling it to achieve selective distribution in 60 countries within two years. The recent launch of the Extrait Extrême collection, with an exceptional concentration of 60 % fragrance oils, is a testament to its audacity.

"What makes Borntostandout a unique voice in the world of luxury perfumery is our deep conviction that creativity trumps convention, says Jun Lim, Borntostandout's founder and Managing Director. The arrival of such prestigious investors goes beyond a simple capital contribution: it's a strong validation of the idea that singularity in perfumery is one of life's greatest luxuries."

"We are delighted to support Jun, a visionary entrepreneur who has created a unique and differentiating luxury fragrance brand.says Anna-Lena Kamenetzky, co-founder of Touch Capital. Borntostandout embodies both absolute modernity and deep roots in Korean craftsmanship, generating a fascinating tension that builds consumer loyalty."

Eurofragance: a new CEO for 2026

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JOAN-PERE-JIMENEZ-CMO_LAURENT-MERCIER-CEO_EUROFRAGANCE

Spanish composition house Eurofragance has announced the appointment of a new Chief Executive Officer (CEO) for 2026. Joan Pere Jiménez will take up his position as CEO on January 1. Laurent Mercier, who has held the position since 2018, will continue to lead the company until December 31, 2025 before taking on a new role on the Board of Directors.

Under the leadership of Laurent Mercier, Eurofragance has established itself as a global player and a benchmark in the perfume industry. Since 2021, the company has posted sustained annual growth of over 20 % and double-digit profitability.

Laurent Mercier placed sustainability at the heart of the company's strategy and encouraged investment in innovation, enabling the composition house to develop its first exclusive ingredients for the creation of exceptional fragrances.

Joan Pere Jiménez has over ten years' experience with Eurofragance. He joined the company as Chief Operations Officer, and has held several positions of responsibility on the Executive Committee, including General Manager for the Europe, Africa and Turkey region until 2021, and then for the Asia-Pacific region until the end of 2023. Since January 2024, he has held the position of Chief Market Officer, which he will continue to hold until the end of 2025.

"I approach this new challenge with great enthusiasm and a deep sense of responsibility. I would like to thank the Board of Directors, the owner family and the management team for their confidence. Over the course of this year, I will continue to work with Laurent to ensure a smooth transition and to pursue the vision that has brought us to this point, based on service excellence, an innovative approach, a strong commitment to sustainability and a people-centric model."emphasizes Joan Pere Jiménez.

Sugar in skincare creams

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Cellugy_EcoFLEXY powder

EcoFlexy, the cellulose-based biofabricated material from the Danish biotech startup Cellugymakes its commercial debut with a new range of organically-based skin creams developed with the company Bioli also based in Denmark.

site-industries-cosmetiques A white jar of Bioli moisturizing and protective day cream is presented with the lid slightly open, recalling the sleek design of a Brouillon car. The label mentions the bioactive enzyme technology, suitable for all skin types and respectful of the environment.

The new moisturizing and protective day cream combines bioactive and antioxidant skincare with 100 % biodegradable and fossil-free ingredients (including packaging) in a high-performance solution with low environmental impact.

Reports suggest that the beauty industry could lose around 12 billion euros as a result of the EU ban on microplastics, and growing pressure calling for a ban on PFAS (eternal pollutants), already restricted in the USA. 

The beauty and chemical industries are therefore looking for sustainable, high-performance and cost-effective alternatives. The collaboration between Cellugy and Bioli thus offers, according to the two partners, an environmentally-friendly skincare solution that meets the stringent performance requirements of the high-end skincare market without compromising product efficacy or the user experience.

Cellugy's EcoFlexy is a fermentation platform that produces dry cellulose from the bioconversion of sugar in an energy-efficient process. Using micro-organisms to produce cellulose has less impact on nature, making production more sustainable, without the need to cut down trees or harvest cotton. What's more, this solution is a scalable process that integrates seamlessly with standard manufacturing methods and existing infrastructures, making it ideal for cosmetics and chemical manufacturers.

Discussions are underway to distribute EcoFlexy in eleven key cosmetics markets in the EU and the USA. Cellugy aims to ramp up production to commercial volumes, with a view to a full commercial launch in April 2025 at the In-cosmetics Global trade show. The product developed with Bioli is the first in a series, with others to follow. It is available from Bioli's online store and is already attracting interest from retailers.

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