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Arcade Beauty Europe under the direction of Laurent Oulès

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The editorial staff
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Since the appointment of Carl Alain as CEO, the Arcade Beauty group has entrusted its European management to Laurent Oulès. Based in Paris, he took up his post during the summer.

Laurent Oules joined Arcade Beauty in August 2022 as Managing Director of the European business. His experience in the packaging sector and his strategic expertise are major assets for the group.

After starting his career with the Air Liquide group and then with the strategy consulting firm McKinsey, he joined the Pechiney/Alcan group, where he managed the international development of the European flexible packaging business. He then piloted the operations of a French industrial unit within the Amcor group, following the acquisition of Alcan Packaging. After joining Essilor in 2012 to head engineering and technology development, he returned to the packaging sector in 2015 to lead the international, industrial and commercial transformation of the Danaflex group. In 2019, he joined the Coveris Group, a leader in flexible packaging, where he led international development with global customers, focusing on high-performance and recyclable packaging. Laurent is a graduate of École Polytechnique, École Nationale des Ponts et Chaussées, and holds an MBA from the Collège des Ingénieurs.

Roland Lescure, Minister in charge of Industry met the Cosmetics Sector Committee

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The editorial staff
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Chaired - for the first time - by Roland Lescure, Minister Delegate for Industry, the "Comité de filière cosmétiques" met face-to-face at Bercy on November 28, for its third working session since its creation in 2021, following the "États Généraux de la Cosmétique", organized by the Cosmetic Valley competitiveness cluster and the FEBEA, attended by some twenty industry representatives, this meeting provided an opportunity to discuss with the Minister the challenges faced by the various links in the value chain - suppliers, manufacturers, distributors -, and to submit to him concrete projects for cooperation between companies, trade associations and public authorities.

At the end of the meeting, Cosmetic Valley, FEBEA and the Médiateur des Entreprises signed the "Responsible Purchasing Charter ", the first outcome of the process launched in early 2021 with the adoption, by the sector's largest principals, of the "Declaration of solidarity by cosmetics companies with the glass sector". It formalizes ten commitments between principals and suppliers.

Quadpack sets up a new US laboratory for value-added testing

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The editorial staff
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American beauty brands now have access to packaging testing services at Quadpack's facilities in Dallas, Texas. To meet growing demand, the international manufacturer and supplier of beauty packaging has set up a testing laboratory in the USA. This complements the central laboratory at the company's headquarters in Barcelona, Spain. This service adds another level of quality control, as Quadpack seeks to offer solutions in the region, for the region.

The U.S.-based laboratory is equipped with high-tech equipment to carry out tests for leak-tightness, weight loss, torque, resistance to decoration, tube sealing, formula ageing and much more. This high value-added service is offered to support brands in the development phase of their packaging. The Dallas site also offers storage, decoration and assembly services, and manages the InStockPack e-commerce site.

Quadpack's central laboratory in Europe is fully equipped for homologations, change controls and compatibility tests, the latter being a legal responsibility of beauty brands.

Quadpack is currently recruiting for its test facilities in Shanghai, China, to further expand the service in Asia, setting up test laboratories in its three key territories.

Gattefossé wins the Inpi 2022 Trophy in the export category

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The editorial staff
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Gattefossé was awarded the Trophée Inpi 2022 in the export category at a ceremony held at the Institut de France. A fine reward for Gattefossé, which has made innovation a pillar of its growth by pursuing a determined and consistent industrial policy.

INPI Trophies: recognition for French innovation

Created in 1991, the Trophées Inpi (Institut National de la Propriété Industrielle) reward companies that are emblematic of French innovation, and stand out for their exemplary industrial property strategy. This year, the Trophées honor fifteen SMEs, start-ups and Eti, competing in 5 categories: Export, Industry, Responsible Innovation, Partnership Research and Start-up. The jury for the 2022 edition is chaired by Bernard Reybier, Chairman of the Board of Fermob, winner of the Trophées in 2013.

An industrial property strategy to protect and perpetuate your ideas

Gattefossé's innovation policy is based on two pillars:

- In-house research, carried out at the Saint Priest site (Lyon metropolitan area) and at application laboratories in India, China and the United States by engineers and PhDs in pharmacy, chemistry and biology.

- Working together with public and private research centers worldwide.

"Intellectual property has always been at the heart of our concerns, which began over a century ago when my great-grandfather filed his first patents in the 1920s. We have put in place an organization and a development process that enables us to protect our innovations while sharing our know-how, a notion dear to the company.

To be awarded an INPI Trophy today is an honor and recognition of the efforts made by our research teams over the years. We are happy and proud to reap the rewards of this collective effort. explains Ségolène Moyrand-Gros, President of the Gattefossé Group.

This strategy makes it possible to carry out a wide variety of work simultaneously, This feeds our portfolio of potential new developments, and enables us to respond to market needs as quickly as possible.

"Our products are used in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, but the related know-how is varied. These include chemical synthesis processes, plant extraction, chemical analysis or various pharmaceutical galenic and cosmetic forms.

Our innovation strategy and the patents we file therefore encompass all these areas of expertise. Having a solid industrial property strategy is essential if you want to be well protected. We therefore systematically file patents for all our new ingredients and technologies in all the countries that are key to our business, following a freedom-to-operate study. This is a guarantee of product quality and durability for our customers". says Jean-David Rodier, Oleochemistry R&D Manager.

To date, Gattefossé has a portfolio of 18 patent families and 195 trademarks protecting products, manufacturing processes and applications for its two markets. The patents cover several key countries, including France, Germany, the UK, the USA and China.

Innovations in ingredient development

Last April, Gattefossé launched a new natural plant-based active ingredient for the cosmetics industry, the fruit of a collaboration with with a research group specializing in the study of the effects of genotoxic stress. The product received industry recognition at in-cosmetics global, winning the Bronze Innovation Award in the Best Cosmetic Active Ingredient category.

Gattefossé was also one of the first suppliers of cosmetic ingredients to patent a technology based on hydrophilized plant waxes. enabling us to offer our cosmetics customers uniquely sensorial textures. This innovation has also been recognized by the industry with a number of innovation awards.

In pharmaceuticals, Gattefossé last year developed a new oil phase stabilizer for bi-gels, which was shortlisted in the "Finished Formulation" category at the CPHI Worldwide trade show earlier this month.

Matteo Moretti takes over the entire capital of Lumson

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The editorial staff
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Matteo Moretti, Chairman of Lumson S.p.A., has purchased, through the family holding company, the entire stake in Lumson S.p.A. held by FSI SGR S.p.A. on behalf of the "FSI I" fund . The transaction enables the Moretti family to complete the succession begun in 2018 and accelerate the path of growth by strengthening Lumson S.p.A.'s leading position in the cosmetic primary packaging sector.

This transaction comes after four years of strong joint development.
Lumson is a leading European company in the design, development, production and decoration of primary packaging systems for the cosmetics and make-up market.
The Capergnanica-based company exceeded 130 million euros in sales, with a sustained margin reflecting its strong positioning in the skincare segment and the high quality and technological content of its products, sold worldwide to the most important groups in the cosmetics industry.
Over the last five years, the company's sales have doubled and, under the leadership of Matteo Moretti, it has considerably strengthened its position in the high-end make-up segment, thanks also to the acquisition of Marino Belotti. In addition, important and innovative projects have been carried out in the field of sustainability, an extremely important issue in the packaging world and one in which Lumson is now a leader with a solid pipeline and a dynamic management team.

The Moretti family's aim is to further accelerate Lumson's growth and consolidate its leading position in the skin care segment of the primary packaging sector, continuing under the leadership of Chairman Matteo Moretti, Managing Director Antonio Recinella and the current management team.
Matteo Moretti, President of Lumson Group: " I am very proud of Lumson's growth and the value created for all shareholders and stakeholders thanks to the commitment and contribution of my father Remo - Lumson's founder in 1975 -, the Board of Directors, the management team and all the Group's employees. Today, Lumson is a major player in the primary packaging industry, with a diversified product portfolio and a focus on sustainability that makes the company an important partner for leading international cosmetics brands. The FSI helped us achieve this goal" .

1st industrial production site of natural ingredients for Dry4Good

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The editorial staff
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Dry4Good, an industrial FoodTech specialized in the production of high value-added ingredients, inaugurates this Thursday 1er December, its first plant specialized in the production of innovative ingredients for the food, cosmetics and nutraceutical industries. With a production capacity of 50 tons of ingredients per year, this new site of 1000m2 The new building, built by Vectura, a real estate company specialized in commercial real estate, will allow the start-up to demonstrate the technological and industrial production of ingredients for a more sustainable and healthier diet.

From laboratory to first production unit in 24 months

Founded in 2019, Dry4Good is a start-up from Ile-de-France specialized in the manufacture of healthy and natural products, obtained from specific innovative technologies. These allow to keep the taste, color and texture of the raw materials, as well as all the nutritional values, without any substantial addition or modification.

This eco-efficient precision drying process was initially developed in the laboratory of La Turbine, the Cergy-Pontoise incubator and business center (IPHE). After a year of R&D, a pilot plant was put into service in 2021, thus meeting the first demands of a particularly attentive market. Thanks to this pre-industrial equipment, Dry4Good was able to develop a range of industrial ingredients and to seduce its first customers, players in the food and cosmetics industries.

A move to an industrial scale with its 1000m pilot production site2

Today, the start-up is moving to the next level in order to increase the capacity of its activity and to meet the high demand of its customers, by inaugurating its first industrial site of 1000m2. With three production lines and a processing capacity of 2 tons of fresh produce per day, the new plant has validated the industrial scale-up of its breakthrough technology. It will enable the production of the equivalent of 50 tons of ingredients per year to meet the growing demand, as early as 2023.

"We are pleased to inaugurate our first pilot production site in the Val d'Oise. This site, designed in record time and tailor-made by VECTURA, allows us to move to an industrial scale and marks a major step in our development. The market is there and its potential is immense due to the strong growth of the sector and the growing needs of industrialists for healthier, more efficient and environmentally friendly formulations. "says Romaric Janssen, co-founder of Dry4Good.

A start-up leader in reindustrialization and territorial development

In line with BPI France's ambitions, this first pilot site located in Cergy (95) is actively participating in the development of the agribusiness sector in France. The public organization aims to create 100 new industrial sites per year, in the territories, by 2025, to reindustrialize France and meet its challenges of sovereignty and employment.

The Dry4Good production line is also located as close as possible to the sourcing. Most of the raw materials used are sourced through a large network of farmers (producers and cooperatives) in the Paris region. By favoring products grown near its site, Dry4Good participates in its own way in the economic development of a French agricultural sector. The company is also one of the startups labeled French Tech Agri20, and also holds the "Produit en Ile-de-France" label.

An investment of more than 4 million euros

This first industrial site was created thanks to the financial support of regional and national public partners strongly committed to the economic development of the territories, namely: France Relance, France 2030, the Ile de France Region and BPI France. The startup has also relied on the support of private investors, and has benefited from public aid as a winner of the I-NOV competition, but also from the Programme d'Investissement d'Avenir (PIA 4). In total, the startup will have deployed more than 4M€, allowing the continuation of investments as well as the creation of 30 direct jobs on the territory.

Lalique and James Turrell: Two Limited Edition Crystal Bottles

By
The editorial staff
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Purple Sage & Range Rider, two limited edition perfume bottles.
This collaboration gives birth to the first perfume created by an artist for Lalique.

Lalique unveiled its new collaboration with American artist James Turrell, known for creating works that challenge the public to confront the limits and magic of human perception by playing with light and space.

This is the first time the famous light artist has worked on small pieces. This unique encounter between two "light artists" is the result of more than four years of close collaboration and comes as Lalique celebrates the lOOth anniversary of its Alsace-based manufacture. The collection, which was presented at the 2022 edition of Paris+ by Art Basel, consists of 42 luminous crystal panels and two perfume bottles in limited editions of 100 pieces each. This was the first time that Lalique Art was an official partner of the famous modern and contemporary art fair.


James Turrell first imagined two perfume bottles. Fascinated by Egypt and the forms of stupas found in Asia, he was inspired by their architectural structure which make them monuments of high spiritual value where light plays an essential role.

Combining both artistic and olfactory sensibilities, the two bottles Range Rider and Purple Sage are inspired by Zane Grey's book, Riders of the Purple Sage and the artist's desire to recreate the beauty of the American West. The result is dazzling: the bottles are veritable prisms that diffuse and diffract light. Entirely handcrafted, these pieces presented a major challenge for Lalique artisans: obtaining a uniform thickness of crystal, which allows for homogeneity and the right density of color.

Working with Lalique's perfumers, Turrell has also brought to life the first perfumes created by an artist for Lalique. The first of these, Range Rider, encapsulates the natural scents of Arizona, the artist's homeland: purple sage and rubbed leather, pepper, amber and citrus. Its olfactory architecture evokes the sun-drenched ranches of the American West.

Oscillating between strength and delicacy, the second fragrance, Purple Sage, named after the delicate variety of sage that rules Arizona, offers another interpretation of Turrell's relationship with his region. With its subtle curves, the bottle pays homage to the eternal female form. The fragrance itself features a delicately fruity and musky scent that reveals notes of purple sage, mandarin orange, grapefruit and rhubarb.
The collaboration was born out of a meeting between the artist and Silvio Denz, president and CEO of Lalique, " I immediately thought that Lalique should host works by James Turrell: the place of the artist-light made sense if we think of the founder René Lalique, nicknamed "the sculptor of light". It is a profound artistic adventure that has led to a result of rare elegance and modernity. A true feat. I am both proud and very happy that this great name joins the prestigious circle of artists who have collaborated with Lalique. "
James Turrell added, " The nature of my work is the shaping of light. The Light is the material and perception is the medium. I had already heard of René Lalique but I did not know the extent of his creativity. At the Lalique factory, I was fascinated by the master glassmakers and their technical virtuosity. They are true artists. This was my first time designing perfumes and crystal pieces. The sense of smell evokes memory more than any other sense, and it is thanks to Lalique and the perfumers that I was able to create this. To create a perfume is to create the world that we have known. Like René Lalique, I seek the light and I will continue to seek it. "

Anaē presents its new line of solid cosmetics

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The editorial staff
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Specialized since 2000 in ecological accessories for toiletry and care, anaē launches a range of solid cosmetic products, accessible to all, zero waste to meet consumers looking for sobriety and back to the essentials.

Its balms, deodorants and toothpastes, made of natural and organic materials, are manufactured in a small cosmetic workshop in Brittany.

Thanks to their reusable glasses and containers signed Duralex, they sign the end of overpackaging, thus joining a zero waste lifestyle.

With its new line of solid cosmetics, anaē wanted to eliminate the superfluous. The brand chose simple, waterless manufacturing processes inspired by DIY: their concentrated and minimalist formulas highlight organic and/or naturally sourced raw materials from Brittany.


The anaē products are Cosmos certified, a demanding international standard that promotes the use of organic ingredients, processes that respect the environment and health, and the integration of the concept of "green chemistry."
This range has a clean, modern and uncluttered look and is also characterized by its transparency.
The new anaē range thus aims to democratize solid cosmetics and affirm the brand's ecological and social commitment. It makes zero waste cosmetics more accessible and saves time and money for consumers.

The anaē solid cosmetics line consists of eight products: two toothpastes, two deodorants and four body balms. In early 2023, it will welcome four new products.

Toothpastes in paste

Anaē offers a fresh toothpaste, with organic mint and eucalyptus flavors, and a bright toothpaste, with organic lemon flavors and bicarbonate. These toothpastes are formulated cold from calcium carbonate, a soft abrasive. They clean teeth thoroughly, and offer a pleasant sensation of freshness or tone. They both contain a natural foaming agent that provides a soft sensation when brushing.
These two toothpastes are packaged in Duralex table glasses well known in canteens. The cork lid can also be reused to close the glass and package spices, dried fruits...

Deodorant balms

Thanks to their melting texture, anaē deodorant balms are easy to apply and protect the armpits against the inconvenience of perspiration. Subtly scented, they have minimalist and organic formulas, enriched with soothing Breton camelina oil, shea butter and coconut oil.
They are available in two versions: the fresh version contains sodium bicarbonate, which neutralizes the development of bad odors and absorbs humidity, and the gentle version, formulated without bicarbonate, with a complex of effective deodorant ingredients that respect the most delicate skin.
Both deodorants are packaged in Duralex coffee cups. The cork lid can also be reused to close the jar and pack spices, dried fruits...

Body balms

A true invitation to well-being and relaxation, anaē balms melt on contact with the skin and nourish it deeply thanks to their lipid-rich ingredients. They are economical, as a very small amount can moisturize a large area of skin.
They are made of organic Breton oils, from a first cold pressing.
The relaxing balm contains hemp oil rich in omega 3 and 6 and essential fatty acids, which gives it calming and antioxidant properties and a dry non-greasy feel.
The nourishing and sporty balms are made with camelina oil: rich in omega 3, 6 and 9 and in vitamin E, it has soothing and regenerating properties.
The three body balms are packaged in Duralex cups. The cork lid can also be reused to close the cup or as a coaster.

Eco-responsible, reusable and French containers

To push its eco-design approach to the limit, anaē has chosen eco-responsible and reusable containers for its cosmetics: Duralex glasses and cups, renowned for their sturdiness and quality.
Anaē worked in partnership with the French group to come up with three useful containers that can be used as table glasses or cups. The cork lids were custom designed in Portugal to match the Duralex design.
In addition to being eco-responsible, this packaging has a sweet nostalgic aspect: it takes adults back to childhood, and allows them to discover their age, once the balm or toothpaste is finished, thanks to the number engraved on the bottom of the container.
" From solid cosmetics to drinking glass, there is only one pot" 

Anaē is a brand of Ecodis. The company is committed to a process of relocalization of manufacturing processes: it is building a network of Breton and local partner companies.
The products in the anaē range are thus formulated with oils from organic Breton seeds, and are manufactured in a Breton cosmetics workshop.
Anaē also encourages organic farming by promoting, whenever possible, the use of plant ingredients from organic crops. All ingredients and raw materials have been chosen with respect for the planet and the people who make the products.

Anaē is a brand of Ecodis, 100% owned by the Ecodyssée Endowment Fund, and specialized since 2000, in the design and distribution of ecoproducts to specialized stores, merchant sites and craftsmen.
It offers a range of products and accessories dedicated to hygiene and natural well-being, all designed with respect for the environment and the human being: solid cosmetics, menstrual panties, menstrual cups, washable sanitary napkins, bandages, brushes, massage gloves or cosmetic sponges...

Cosm'Innov Congress - May 24th & 25th 2023 - Call for abstracts

By
Cosmetic Valley
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Cosm'Innov is the international congress to establish a state of play for cosmetics researchpromoting recent scientific discoveries and linking them to the major challenges of the cosmetics industry.

Organised by Cosmetic Valley, with the support of Cosmetosciences and Orléans Métropole, Cosm'Innov brings together public and private research players, and contributes to the development of partnerships and technology transfer to create the future of cosmetics.

Industrials or Researchers? You wish to present your recent scientific advances? 
Submit your abstract BEFORE JANUARY 13th,
on one of the four themes below, and become one of the speakers of the congress.

Congress abstracts will be published in a special issue of the International Journal of Cosmetic Sciences.

In 2023, in the face of climate emergency, and at the dawn of the 5th industrial revolution, how should both, the academic researchers and the industry, adapt to these changes, in order to continuously improve product performance while ensuring its safety?

1 - INSPIRED BY NATURE

How can the observation and benefits of nature advance cosmetic research in the ingredients, formulas, and packaging industry?

#Bioinspiration #Bio-sourcing #Upcycling #Co-products #Biotechnology #Naturality #Biomaterials #Inspired by the sea #Green chemistry

2 - HUMAN BEAUTY IN A CHANGING ENVIRONMENT

The world around us has an influence on our appearance: improve our understanding of its role to address the consequences.

#Exposome #Environmental Microbiota #Well-being #Emotion #Neurosciences #Social interactions #Perception

3 - KNOWLEDGE OF HUMAN BIOLOGY FOR BETTER COSMETICS

Understand biological mechanisms at the earliest stages to develop preventive and more effective products.

#Mechanisms of action #Cellular biology #Omics technologies #Imaging technologies #New technologies to investigate support #Non-invasive technologies #Measurement of biological activity #Alternative tests #In silico approaches #Artificial and synthetic skin models

4 - INTERDISCIPLINARY SCIENCE FOR EFFICIENT FORMULATIONS?

Develop performant raw materials and cosmetic formula meeting environmental requirements, while offering a targeted, effective, and personalised product.

#Formulation #Process engineering #Green Chemistry #Multifunctionality #Encapsulation #Vectorisation #Galenic #Delivery systems #Personalisation #Modelling #Biodegradability #Ecotoxicology #Life Cycle Analysis

Contact

Fanny Veau - [email protected]

Submit your abstract before January 13th

L'Oréal accelerates its transformation in the field of Green Sciences

By
The editorial staff
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L'Oréal and French biotech Microphyt announce a strategic partnership under which L'Oréal's private equity fund BOLD (Business Opportunities for L'Oréal Development) will acquire a minority stake in Microphyt.

This operation is fully in line with L'Oréal's Research & Innovation strategy in the field of Green Sciences, through numerous strategic partnerships with innovative start-ups in the biotechnology sector, in France and internationally. This proactive policy is at the heart of the objectives that L'Oréal has set for 2030 as part of its sustainable development program, including the goal that 95% of its ingredients will be bio-sourced, derived from abundant minerals or from circular processes.

Microphyt, created in 2007 and located in Baillargues (Hérault), has developed a revolutionary low carbon impact process for the production of microalgae - microscopic plant organisms used in cosmetics for their active properties and functional qualities.    

Thanks to its patented process and its mastery of natural stimuli (light, salt, nutrients, temperature variation, etc.), this French biotech is among the companies producing the largest varieties of microalgae in the world on a large scale and in a controlled manner. Microphyt has an integrated platform for the transformation of these microalgae and thus develops natural and renewable ingredients perfectly adapted to the sustainable ambitions of L'Oréal.

L'Oréal and Microphyt will build a technological platform and will pool material and human resources to design raw materials from microalgae biomass. The two companies aim to establish a long-term partnership for the development of new cosmetic solutions.

This merger follows a number of strategic scientific partnerships that the Group has forged in recent months to strengthen its pioneering Green Beauty Sciences ecosystem: the life sciences research specialist VERILY, the National Institute for Materials Sciences (NIMS) in Japan, the Singapore Centre for Environmental Life Sciences Engineering (SCELSE), and the Laboratoire de Chimie des Polymères Organiques de Bordeaux (LCPO).

" Our ambition is to collaborate worldwide with the most disruptive scientific entities in the field of Green Sciences, in order to develop together responsible innovations on a large scale and make them accessible to the greatest number of peopleexplains Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice President, Research, Innovation and Technology, L'Oréal Groupe. We are very pleased with this new partnership with Microphyt, which will allow us, thanks to its unique natural solutions derived from microalgae, to further accelerate our transformation towards a more sustainable beauty".

For Microphyt, the partnership with L'Oréal reinforces its strategic roadmap. Since the realization in 2019 of one of the most important fundraising of its sector with notably the SPI funds of Bpifrance and Sofinnova Partners, Microphyt has strongly accelerated the development and the marketing of natural ingredients from microalgae for nutrition and cosmetics. In the last 18 months, Microphyt has launched 3 innovative active ingredients in cosmetics and has started the commercialization of its first two proprietary ingredients in nutrition on the American market of food supplements.

 "We are delighted with the partnership with L'Oréal which is fully in line with Microphyt's ambition to give access to the greatest number of people to natural solutions derived from microalgae, explains Vincent Usache, General Manager of Microphyt. The "extended lab" technology platform is perfectly complementary to our own activities. It will enable us to accelerate the development of eco-designed ingredients in common with L'Oréal and to use our production capacities to facilitate their scaling up within our industrial platform.

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