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Annick Menardo signs Yves Saint Laurent Beauté's new Lavallière fragrance

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The editorial staff
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A new addition to Yves Saint Laurent Beauté's exclusive Le Vestiaire des Parfums collection, Lavallière is a remarkably sophisticated creation inspired by the famous floating, supple bow of the same name. A signature accessory of Yves Saint Laurent's wardrobe, borrowed from the bohemian wardrobe, the designer plays with the fluidity of gender. Blurring the boundaries between masculinity and femininity, this fragrance by Annick Menardo is a tribute that inspires a most androgynous look.

Lavallière's fruity, floral, green and woody facets are woven together like multicolored disks in a joyful ribbon, harmoniously blending masculinity and femininity. Sparkling, green, biting blackcurrant buds mingle with a luscious fig accord at the top. Rich and creamy like the juicy, purple flesh of the fruit, it is accentuated by the sweetness of Indian sambac jasmine. Its floral heart reveals its mixed nature. The rose brings to life a blend of rose essence and rose water, giving it a fresh, natural, vegetal note.

In order for this floral symbol of femininity to convey the androgynous panache of Yves Saint Laurent's iconic piece, Annick Menardo combined two typically masculine ingredients: Madagascar geranium, a green aromatic with notes of rose, mint and lychee, and Haitian vetiver with accents of grapefruit, smoked wood and flint.

Olfactory family : green fruity floral

Olfactory pyramid

Head Blackcurrant bud, fig accord, Madagascar mandarin,

Heart : geranium of Madagascar, rose, jasmine sambac,

Background : Haitian vetiver, cashmeran, musks.

" As Yves Saint Laurent did with fashion, I wanted to revisit an iconic signature of haute parfumerie through the creation of Lavallière: the rose-cassis accord. I imagined a precious rose supported by a smooth, comfortable woody note. I paired it with juicy blackcurrant, which I modernized with crunchy green fig. "

Annick Menardo, Master Perfumer

The Berkem Group continues its exclusive collaboration with Barentz Personal Care

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The editorial staff
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The Berkem Group continues its exclusive collaboration with Barentz Personal Care in the personal care and cosmetics market in Germany, Austria and German-speaking Switzerland.

The Berkem Group, a leading player in plant-based chemistry, announces a new exclusive partnership with Barentz. After the US and Canadian markets at the beginning of November, the world's leading distributor of specialty products also becomes the exclusive distributor of the Berkem Group's sustainable ingredients in Germany, Austria and Switzerland.

Through this partnership, the Group aims to offer active ingredients rich in polyphenols, floral waters and plant extracts in a wide range of sectors, including skin, face, body and hair care.

" The Personal Care and cosmetics markets are driven and stimulated by innovation, and require efficiency and quality to meet the technical and regulatory expectations of companies in the sector. In Barentz, we have found a privileged partner to support us in our international development in line with these challenges. "says Eric Moussu, Sales Director of the Berkem Group.

" Barentz welcomes the Berkem Group to its strong portfolio of specialty products in Germany, Austria and German-speaking Switzerland. Barentz is proud to present Berkem's outstanding range of innovative raw materials to current and future customers. "said Chris Ott, vice-president of Barentz's personal care and household products division.

Lumson: new website

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The editorial staff
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The new Lumson website is now online. It is not a simple "restyling" but a completely new portal with an underlying theme of user-friendliness. With intuitive graphics, innovative content organization and a series of new sections, the site combines functionality and comprehensiveness, so that it is rich in information and at the same time extremely easy to navigate. The new site reflects the group's brand identity and marks an important step in the company's digital transformation journey. Among the new features of the new portal that stand out are the configurator, an application that allows customers to simulate their product, the area dedicated to sustainability with the objectives achieved and those to come, and the section dedicated to brands, with some examples of customers, both Italian and international, who have chosen Lumson as a partner thanks to its immense expertise and know-how.

Key words: user-friendliness and completeness

" Our goal is to provide an innovative customer experience for users accessing lumson.com.- explains Fabio Manzoni, Group Marketing Manager Lumson. As the evolution of the market has now made clear, the B2B world is becoming more and more like the communication methods of the B2C world. Every day, business users increasingly appreciate the same communication experience in the B2B world as they have as consumers. We have achieved this by combining user-friendliness and comprehensiveness and by giving current and future customers a taste of our technical, technological and manufacturing know-how. Thus, the new site is configured as an easy-to-navigate portal, where customers can find the information they are looking for and "test drive" the Lumson Group's know-how in developing packaging solutions and dispensing systems for cosmetics and make-up." 

The configurator, to "create" your product online

" For this purpose - explains the manager - In the Product Area, an interactive configurator has been implemented that allows the user to create an exact replica of their item by selecting the bottle and combining it with different pumps and accessories available. Once the product is determined, the user can print all the information and send it directly to the sales department to finalize the project. Two other important new features are the "Sustainability" section, which demonstrates the importance and commitment with which Lumson approaches the SDGs (Sustainable Development Goals), and the "Human Resources" section, where the details of each position are described and job candidates are presented with the professional growth opportunities offered by the Group" .

Designed and built with responsive technology that allows the site to automatically adapt its layout and provide an optimal viewing experience from any device, without the need to continually scroll or resize content, the new site is intended to be an information tool for all stakeholders. In the "News & Events" section, users can find an updated list of trade shows and events, awards and recognitions, and upcoming innovations, while clicking on "Who We Are" will tell them about the company's history, values and mission.

L'Oréal pop-up store: more efficient self-cashout checkouts thanks to payfree and Avery Dennison

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The editorial staff
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L'Oréal opts for payfree's grab-and-go technology as a complete self-checkout solution in its pop-up store in Düsseldorf, Germany.

  • Avery Dennison's single-use RFID tags meet the specific requirements of the beauty industry and its products.
  • Customers are excited about this innovative shopping experience.

payfree is providing its self-checkout solution to global cosmetics leader L'Oréal in its pop-up store on Königsallee in Düsseldorf. The company invites customers to test and buy a variety of perfumes and make-up products. Instead of waiting in line at the cash register, customers purchase selected products by passing them through a scanning unit, which automatically registers the products with radio frequency identification (RFID) tags. payfree is introducing the first grab-and-go checkout in the beauty industry in collaboration with Avery Dennison, a global leader in material science and digital identification solutions. To meet the demanding standards of the beauty industry, Avery Dennison has developed single-use RFID tags designed to meet specific product characteristics. Located in one of Germany's most popular shopping areas, the L'Oréal pop-up is open until November 27.

payfree has already successfully implemented its grab-and-go checkout in other sectors, such as apparel and merchandise for the German soccer club Eintracht Frankfurt. Beauty products, however, are more difficult to tag than apparel: liquids and metal surfaces such as foil packaging usually inhibit signal transfer during RFID communication. Specializing in the development and manufacture of smart labels, Avery Dennison has met these challenges with beauty-specific RFID labels. They offer a metal tag at a price point that makes high volume labeling possible. The technology used in L'Oréal's ephemeral boutique could pave the way for self-checkout, not only in the beauty sector, but also for food and consumer products.

"  The beauty industry is undergoing radical changes. An increasing number of consumers are finding and purchasing products online or on social media and easily switching between brands. By combining our advances in RFID technology with payfree's expertise in RFID-based self-service checkouts, we can offer brands a unique solution to satisfy their customers and build loyalty ", says Uwe Hennig, market development manager for Apparel, Beauty & Food, Intelligent Labels EMEA, Australia and India at Avery Dennison.

" This pop-up store is all about the immersive brand experience. Our goal is to excite our customers while offering them a number of beauty and shopping services. We want to provide our customers with a rich and memorable shopping experience. payfree is the perfect partner to achieve this. Their checkout solution requires little space and fits perfectly into our store concept ", says Jonas Lischewski, brand manager of L'Oréal Luxe.

The self-service checkout is designed to create a seamless shopping experience that meets the demands of high-end retail. To live up to the high customer experience and service levels in-store, the shopping experience is enhanced by a new and innovative approach to checkout, including automatic item scanning and contactless payment. By reducing manual interactions during the checkout process, payfree has designed a fast and convenient shopping experience. Customers simply wave their bag of beauty products in front of a U-shaped scanning unit at the checkout. The payfree Bag Fast Track system automatically identifies the items in the bag as an RFID tag is attached to each item. Customers can then pay contactlessly by card or e-wallet.

Merger between Firmenich and DSM

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The editorial staff
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Firmenich, the world's largest privately held fragrance and flavor company, and DSM today jointly announced the launch of the exchange offer in connection with their merger to create DSM-Firmenich :

  • This combination will bring together Firmenich's unique leading-edge fragrance and flavor business, world-class scientific platforms and associated co-creation capabilities with DSM's outstanding health and nutrition portfolio and recognized scientific expertise.
  • The new company will have four highly successful and complementary businesses, each with a leading position and backed by world-class science. DSM-Firmenich will be better able to partner with its customers to achieve their ambitions and meet the needs of today's conscious consumers who value sustainability, health and wellness.
  • The new international Swiss-Dutch company will be domiciled in Switzerland and listed on Euronext Amsterdam.

Geraldine Matchett and Dimitri de Vreeze, co-CEOs of DSM, commented, " We are entering an exciting new phase as we seek to bring together the complementary capabilities of DSM and Firmenich, like-minded and passionate individuals, and unite the legacies of two great historical companies. DSM-Firmenich is set to become the leading creative and innovative partner in nutrition, beauty and wellness, capable of delivering increased growth and shareholder value through strong growth synergies, as well as an enhanced customer offering and even greater positive impact worldwide." 

Gilbert Ghostine, CEO of Firmenich, added: "This merger is a transformative moment in the history of both companies. DSM-Firmenich will be a world-class partner, uniquely positioned to anticipate and better serve the evolving needs of consumers by unlocking opportunities for our customers and employees. Both our companies are committed to playing their part in society, with ESG at the heart of everything we do, and I am convinced that DSM-Firmenich will have a positive and measurable impact on people, climate and nature." 

Paris Packaging Week, the inspiring meeting place for brands preparing for the future

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The editorial staff
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On January 25 and 26, Paris Packaging Week, organized by Easyfairs, will welcome 630 exhibitors and more than 1,600 luxury, beauty, beverage and FMCG brands at four dedicated trade shows for two days of immersion in the world of primary and secondary packaging.
This event has been designed to give brands a space to discover the latest possibilities in terms of packaging, but also to get inspired and exchange. This edition will be a new opportunity to talk about innovation, to initiate future fruitful collaborations, but also to get informed during exciting talks.

Over 100 influential speakers for captivating conferences

To bring the debate to life in its aisles, the show will orchestrate numerous events, including its four Talks theaters. High-quality technical and inspirational content from some of the world's most influential experts from prestigious brands, renowned design agencies, leading suppliers and major federations. They will provide visitors with relevant content on the challenges and trends facing the beauty, premium beverage, luxury and aerosol industries.

Connected packaging, eco-design, Metavers, the latest European legislation, customer experience, design and more: all themes, whether topical or more prospective, will be addressed by a hundred inspiring speakers in four conference rooms, each dedicated to a specific sector: beauty, luxury, beverages and aerosols. The opportunity to discover actionable strategies and innovative ideas to implement for the coming year.

A place to meet and inspire

For more than 20 years, Paris Packaging Week shows have brought together brands and suppliers who innovate to meet the challenges of the primary and secondary packaging sector.

The main purpose of the show is to create emulation, to be inspired by emerging innovations and, collectively, to meet the challenges of packaging. Several networking areas will be set up throughout the show to make it the place where the future of the industry is invented.

The exhibition brings together 4 events, which are all spaces for discussion, learning and exchange:

  • PCD, which covers the world of beauty
  • PLD, around premium beverage packaging, especially wines and spirits
  • ADF, the only global event dedicated to innovation and technology in aerosols and dispensing systems
  • Packaging Premièr, new in 2023, dedicated to packaging in the luxury world

Finally, participants and visitors will continue their exchanges in a more informal way at the champagne and cocktail bars, located in the heart of the show, as well as in the VIP Lounge and the Ambassador Lounge, places adapted to build strong relationships, meet the industry players who matter and discuss common interests.

" Our goal with Paris Packaging Week is to make it the place to meet and exchange ideas for packaging players and brands. Everyone comes here to learn about the latest trends, but also to get a prospective vision of the sector, in order to plan their future projects and find the right partners to realize them. "says Josh Brooks, marketing director for Paris Packaging Week.

The winners of the 16th Berlin Packaging competition are...

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The editorial staff
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For over 20 years, the competition has transformed the dreams and aspirations of young design students into concrete professional results, and represents the company's commitment to innovation in the world of luxury packaging.

Berlin Packaging, a global hybrid packaging supplier specializing in glass, plastic and metal packaging, has announced the winners of the 16th Berlin Packaging | Bruni Glass Design Award competition.

Established in 1997, the initiative offers a design workshop-competition for students from leading universities, with the aim of creating new, innovative forms of packaging to bring to market. Thanks to collaborations with renowned design institutes around the world - including Milan's Politecnico, Madrid's IED and Milan's IED, Santa Fe's UCSF, University of Arts London and Berlin's Weissensee Hochschule - the competition enabled students to create 5 prototypes for each of the four categories of Berlin Packaging's reference sectors (Spirits, Oil and Vinegar, Wine and Home Fragrances).

The students tried their hand at designing ever more innovative solutions, with the aim of proposing a contemporary packaging, in an avant-garde spirit and in line with the latest trends.
market trends. For each category, there is a ranking of a first and second contender, and then an "absolute winner" for the whole competition.

" We're very proud to present the winners of this year's competition, especially as it's the first post-Covid edition. At Berlin Packaging, we're delighted to offer young talent the chance to play with their technical and creative skills, and can't wait to see which of these projects prove most successful with our customers. "said Paolo Recrosio, CEO of Berlin Packaging Emea. " For the company, this competition represents an important tradition which, over the years, has helped to underline our innovative nature and our commitment to finding solutions which are not only always in step with the times, but which also know how to anticipate market trends. We therefore intend to continue investing in this project, relaunching it in the years to come in conjunction with the world's leading design schools. "

During these 16 editions, the BGDA has proposed around 300 models, over 60 of which have been produced on an industrial scale, generating over 200 different items in terms of capacity, color and mouthpiece. The company has sold over 10 million pieces born or developed by the competition, with copyrights retained by the young designers.

For the latest edition of the BGDA, students from Milan Polytechnic (Italy), Munster School of Design (Germany), FS Pack Cognac (France), Ucsf Universidad Catôlica de Santa Fe (Argentina) and UlC University of Illinois Chicago (USA) were involved, and the prototypes of the 20 finalists were presented to the jury.
presented at the awards evening. As usual, the finalists' projects will be registered and submitted by Berlin Packaging, so that they can be marketed if there is demand.

Home fragrance category :

Fuji took first place, a project by Pham Minh Phuc of the Münster School of Design, while Maria Cecilia Buonocunto, a student at Milan Polytechnic, came second with Grammy.

Finally, in Engineering, Agustina Massei from UCSF won the special mention for sustainable development with Driko Eco, a project competing in the Home Fragrances category.

Nicolas Dufourcq, (Bpifrance) appointed Chairman of Global Industrie

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The editorial staff
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Nicolas Dufourcq, Chief Executive Officer of Bpifrance, takes over the presidency of Global Industrie, the largest event dedicated to industry in France, whose 2023 edition will be held from March 7 to 10, 2023 at Eurexpo Lyon.

Placed under the high patronage of the President of the Republic since its creation in 2018, Global Industrie brings together over 2,000 French and international companies every year and showcases the latest innovations that will shape the industry of the future.

Global Industrie Director Sébastien Gillet's decision to appoint Nicolas Dufourcq as the show's first Chairman was a conscious decision to consolidate the show's institutional strategy, and to give it a strong presence in line with the challenges facing industry today.

This appointment also testifies to Bpifrance's strong presence alongside industrial companies, which are destined to play a key role in the French economy of tomorrow. At a time when manufacturers are more than ever mobilized to meet the challenge of environmental, social and technological transition, this is a strong signal that we are sending them, reinforcing the support and assistance measures already deployed by the State and the Regions.

" I'm particularly pleased to be taking over the presidency of Global Industrie, explains Nicolas Dufourcq. It's a strong concretization of Bpifrance's historic commitment alongside French Fab companies working to revive French industry. Innovation, decarbonization, job creation, regional development...: all the levers of recovery are represented at Global Industrie. "

 " We are proud that Nicolas Dufourcq has agreed to become the first Chairman of Global Industrie. This is excellent news for the industrial sector, analyses Sébastien Gillet, Director of Global Industrie. It is a sign of the very strong synergy that is being created between companies and public players, to support the development and influence of tomorrow's French industry - and which Global Industrie is proud to once again be at the forefront of. "

PhycoSi, to prevent skin aging

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The editorial staff
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Microphyt has designed a long-lasting solution to prevent the first signs of aging: PhycoSi, an innovative bioactive ingredient that recharges the dermis deep down and restores the skin's surface.

Microphyt is proud to present its new bioactive ingredient, PhycoSi, the first upcycled and bioavailable source of marine silicon designed to restructure skin from depth to surface. Simplicity and effectiveness are the watchwords of recent years. By reducing the number of products, the time spent on beauty care, etc., consumers are getting back to basics.

With this in mind, Microphyt decided to explore a fundamental element of the skin: silicon, and thus gave birth to PhycoSi. Its two-step action first stimulates deep exchanges to recharge and strengthen the dermis, then protects and restores the skin's surface by exfoliating and smoothing. The result is suppler, firmer skin and smoother micro-relief.
Always on the lookout for more sustainable solutions, Microphyt's R&D team succeeded in developing a process to extract the silicon contained in a manufacturing by-product, thus recycling a diatom extract destined for disposal. The result is PhycoSi, a recycled bioactive ingredient containing bioavailable marine silicon, which has established itself as a fundamental skin revitalizer.


Advantages of PhycoSi :
o PhycoSi works in two stages: it deeply recharges the dermis for visibly suppler, firmer skin and restores and smoothes the skin's surface.
o PhycoSi is the first sustainable source of marine silicon upcycled and bioavailable produced in France.
o PhycoSi is a water-soluble ingredient which can easily be incorporated into cosmetics to prevent the first signs of aging.

Gattefossé unveils its new collection of suncare formulas

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The editorial staff
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The launch of this new sun kit is the culmination of several months' work by the Gattefossé teams, who put their expertise in formulation and sensorial analysis to work on this sun care product.

This kit, made up of 8 formulas and created from 4 flagship ingredients in its portfolio (emulsifiers or texturizing agents), meets both the challenges faced by formulators and the needs and demands of consumers.

The sensoriality of suncare products is a major concern and a challenge for formulators. The addition of UV filters to cosmetics creates a greasy, sticky sensation that is difficult to conceal and unpleasant for the consumer.

The sensorial evaluation of its products and formulas is a core concern for Gattefossé, which has drawn on its expertise in textures developed over 25 years ago. Gattefossé thus reaffirms its expertise in suncare, offering a collection of formulas combining effective UV protection and application comfort to meet consumer needs:

- Innovative textures and unexpected filter combinations

- Optimizing sensoriality

- Understanding of global specificities (regulations, needs, climate, etc.)

- Testing suncare products in real-life conditions

- Use of a UV camera to visualize sunscreen products once applied to the skin and their behavior over time

Ingredients for sensorial suncare products

Gattefossé has developed ingredients that respond to the major issues encountered when formulating suncare products: performance, stability and sensoriality.

Emulium lllustro, a W/O emulsifier with proven compatibility with organic and inorganic UV filters, creating stable, comfortable formulas.

Emulium Dolcea MB, an O/W emulsifier, creates stable textures with an ultra-soft, non-sticky finish.

Emulium Mellifera MB is another O/W emulsifier that helps formulate suncare products with a light, non-greasy finish.

Acticire MB is an active texturizing agent that improves the sensoriality of suncare products by reducing the greasy, sticky finish. It also improves the durability of the protective film, such as
observed with the UV camera.

"We've been working in suncare for 8 years now. Our ingredients enable us to create innovative textures with all kinds of UV filters. Our sensory panel helps us optimize the sensory profiles of our suncare formulations. As performance is our top priority, we test our formulas to guarantee their protective efficacy (in vitro and in vivo SPF, UVA), water resistance and the photostability of UV filters.

We can help customers with any solar-related questions, or provide expertise and support for their formulation projects. "explains Malorie Duvent, Gattefossé's cosmetics evaluation manager and sun expert.

8 suncare formulas for every situation

Gattefossé's cosmetics applications laboratory has worked on 8 new formulations, with very different sensory profiles and containing organic, inorganic or combined UV filters, to meet all photo-protection requirements.

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