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Consumer feedback integrated in real time into fragrance creation

ScentChat IFF

IFF announces the launch of its new artificial intelligence (AI)-powered search tool: ScentChat. The application connects directly to leading messaging platforms. It uses advanced semantic AI and natural language processing (NLP) to enhance the fragrance creation process by adding real-time consumer feedback, coupled with qualitative information. 

"The ScentChat tool has been specifically developed to enable direct, real-time communication between consumers and fragrance designers via widely used platforms such as WhatsApp and Facebook Messenger."said Valery Claude, Senior Vice-President, Innovation, Fragrance Creation and Design.

Breaking down barriers to co-creation

ScentChat offers the opportunity to reconcile consumers' sensory and subjective appraisals with the technical expertise needed to create fragrances. It's all about translating the emotions felt into relevant formulation ideas. A process that is usually difficult, time-consuming and costly.

"ScentChat reflects the dual nature of fragrance creation - combining human experience and technology to produce sensational results, said Clotilde Raz, Senior Manager, Global Human and Consumer Insights - Scent, at IFF. The app is a huge step forward, making innovation more effective, more immersive and more impactful. We're already sensing unique, consumer-appreciated creations from our fragrance artists, based on this exciting new resource!"

Using already familiar messaging apps, the ScentChat app captures feedback and leverages IFF's proprietary semantic AI and NLP algorithms to analyze inputs and instantly generate insight reports from which formulators can make informed decisions about ingredients and many other factors, based on accurate, up-to-date data in real time. 

This process alone removes many of the hurdles typically associated with IFF consumer research, making it a cost-effective, accessible and scalable tool. The application offers an additional benefit by fostering a legitimate sense of community and collaboration with fragrance creators.

Photo taken from the IFF Facebook page.

Hair: Perfect Corp. launches artificial intelligence frizz analysis

Perfect Corp. - Frizz

Perfect Corp. a Beauty & Fashion Tech provider of artificial intelligence (AI) and augmented reality (AR), developer of 'Beautiful AI' solutions, offers a frizz analyzer. 

This tool is the latest addition to the company's comprehensive AI hair analysis suite, which includes hair texture analysis, hair length analysis, hair color simulation and haircut simulation. 

Analysis in seconds

The AI Frizz Analyzer accurately assesses hair frizz levels in just a few seconds. Simply upload three photos (front, left and right views) and the AI analyzes hair texture and classifies frizz into four distinct levels: no frizz, light frizz, frizz, lots of frizz. 

The approach is data-driven: the algorithm is trained on a vast dataset of 10,000 ethnically diverse hair images. 

Personalized recommendations for all hair types

This innovative technology enables brands to offer personalized experiences that meet their customers' needs. By providing accurate and instantaneous frizz analysis, brands can make personalized product recommendations (serums, shampoos or anti-frizz oils, etc.) and guide customers towards the solutions best suited to their needs.

According to Perfect Corp, this feature increases sales and revenues: its implementation promotes product discovery and encourages re-purchase by providing personalized product suggestions.

Another advantage: there's no need for time-consuming face-to-face consultations, complicated hair questionnaires or installation of specialized software. What's more, the solution integrates easily with a variety of platforms, including websites, mobile apps and digital channels.

"The AI Frizz Analyzer represents a significant advance in personalized hair care, said Alice Chang, founder and CEO of Perfect Corp. By providing accurate and instantaneous frizz analysis, we enable brands to offer truly personalized experiences that resonate with their customers. This technology not only improves customer satisfaction, but also boosts sales and strengthens brand loyalty."

Elipso and Febea publish a guide to the recyclability of cosmetics packaging

Febea-Elipso Guide

For several years now, companies in the cosmetics industry have been committed to the eco-design of their products, and in particular their packaging. The reduction of resources, reuse, incorporation of recycled materials and recyclability are among their priorities. 

However, notes Febea (Fédération des entreprises de la beauté), when it comes to assessing the recyclability of packaging, the regulatory framework at European and even international level remains unclear, and the technical and economic reality of recycling can vary considerably from one country to another.

A collaborative industry initiative

In this context, and without waiting for the harmonized European Packaging & Packaging Waste Regulation (PPWR), Febea and the professional association of plastic packaging manufacturers (Elipso) have joined forces to publish a guide to the recyclability of cosmetics packaging.

The result of close collaboration between packaging manufacturers and marketers, this guide takes stock of packaging recyclability in Europe, and identifies the technical difficulties and potential levers for improving the recyclability of plastic cosmetics packaging. The idea is to anticipate European regulatory requirements and facilitate the eco-design of packaging.

The document is divided into two main sections. The first section establishes a general overview of recyclability, taking into account the regulatory frameworks in force in France, Europe and internationally, the general principles of recyclability (collection, sorting and regeneration) and the methods and tools for analyzing and measuring the recyclability of cosmetic packaging, maintaining the multi-scale approach (French, European and international).

In the second part of the guide, six case studies corresponding to emblematic packaging categories in the cosmetics sector are detailed. They concern tubes, cases/pallets/powder dispensers, sticks, pumps, jars and dip-ins.

For each of these cases, the predominant material and its recycling channel (if any) were first identified. The most frequent disruptive elements to sorting and recycling were then determined: adhesives, decorations (metal or labels, for example), black color, packaging containing several different materials, etc. Finally, possible solutions were proposed and their impact assessed. Finally, possible solutions were proposed and their impact assessed. For example, to replace plastics which have no recycling channel, such as styrenics in make-up cases (which are in the same family as polystyrenes), alternatives with recyclable materials exist, but they will have a major impact on investment in new production molds and on the final aesthetic properties of the packaging: a compromise on shape and appearance will have to be found (gloss, transparency, etc.). These recommendations are intended to guide all cosmetics companies along the road to recyclability and reinforce the sector's commitment to the ecological transition.

2030 outlook

"This guide goes far beyond a simple technical document: it embodies a genuine eco-design tool for the entire cosmetics industry, and testifies to our collective commitment to the ecological transition. By working together - packaging manufacturers and marketers - we are sketching out the contours of a more responsible cosmetics industry, where each packaging becomes a concrete opportunity to reduce our environmental impact. Our goal is to recycle 100 % of cosmetics packaging, while preserving excellence in product quality and safety, says Emmanuel Guichard, General Delegate of Febea.

"The Febea-Elipso guide is more than just a regulatory decision-making tool: it provides a concrete framework for manufacturers' eco-design commitments for cosmetics packaging recycling, even before January 1, 2030, the date of application of the recyclability obligations set out in the Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation (PPWR). In addition to improving recycling conditions, this voluntary anticipation on the part of manufacturers and marketers will make it possible, during the 2025-2030 period, to steer industrial investments in a responsible and clear manner. This successful pooling of expertise has already been achieved for the integration of recycled materials, and deserves to be transposed to other circular economy topics (reuse, for example) and to other sectors!says Gaël Bouquet, Elipso's Managing Director.

The authors of the guide point out that the transition to fully recyclable packaging will require effective cooperation between all players in the industry in terms of packaging innovation (materials) and design (shape and decoration), investment in production processes and the design of new molds adapted to these new types of packaging, and consumer awareness of these new market codes. These far-reaching changes will require a reassessment of all packaging typologies, especially those used for make-up, so that they are designed with recyclability in mind.

An English version of this guide is currently being prepared to facilitate international exchanges.

The document in French can be downloaded by following this link link.

TNT Group: an original bell-shaped hood for Jil Sander

TNT GROUP - JIL SANDER OLFACTORY SERIES 1

TNT Group and Coty worked closely together to create the bell-shaped cap for Jil Sander's Olfactory Series 1 fragrance collection.

"Jil Sander's first fragrance collection fuses botany and technology in six minimalist, unisex formulas where the olfactory notes of aldehydes accompany key natural ingredients to give each fragrance unique shapes and volumes."says the brand's website. So much for fragrance.

On the container side, an original and innovative bell-shaped cap was designed by TNT Groupe, who succeeded in making it possible to manufacture it from a single piece of stamped aluminum, uniformly thick and smooth.

Combining finesse and solidity, this white lacquered and black screen-printed aluminum cover is matched with a recycled PP insert, flush for added aesthetic appeal and with a charmille for a matte effect. The result: an elegant, luminous and uniform appearance. 

The percentage of recycled PP has been optimized to ensure that its mechanical properties are maintained, essential for holding the cap on the pump of this refillable bottle, designed to last.

According to TNT Group, "This project illustrates the search for the best compromise between functionality, aesthetics and durability. "

Kao Chemicals Europe and Brenntag announce strategic distribution agreement

Kao Chemicals Europe

Brenntag, a global specialist in the distribution of chemicals and ingredients, has announced the extension of an existing distribution agreement in the USA with Kao Chemicals Europe. This collaboration will enable Brenntag Specialties to distribute Kao Chemicals Europe's innovative and sustainable specialty surfactants in the personal care and household, industrial and institutional (HI&I) sectors.

Brenntag and Kao Chemicals Europe have been working together worldwide since 2000, first in Canada, then extended to the Nordic countries of Europe in 2023. 

Patrick Haineault, Regional President Beauty and Care North America, commented: "Brenntag Specialties is delighted to extend its relationship with Kao Chemicals Europe to the US market, proudly representing Kao's innovative and sustainable high performance surfactants. Our expanded relationship is a great enhancement to our Personal Care and HI&I portfolio and is strongly aligned with our commitment to provide innovative and sustainable ingredients to the market."

"We are delighted to extend our distribution partnership with Brenntag in North America by starting a collaboration in the United States. We are aiming for rapid and solid growth in Personal Care and HI&I on the East Coast and in the Southern regions of the United States. With Brenntag's support, we are ready for this exciting new phase in Kao's adventure in the United States, said Marc Bernat, Director of Kao Chemicals' Personal Care and HI&I Business Unit.

Photo taken from the Kao Chemicals Europe website.

STI Group presents its premium solutions at Paris Packaging Week

STI Group

Paris Packaging Week 2025, held on January 28 and 29, brought together key players in the packaging industry to discuss the latest innovations in the luxury goods, cosmetics and beverage sectors. Under the slogan " Let's Shape the Future of Packaging "STI Group took part in the show for the first time, unveiling its paper packaging solutions combining durability, performance and aesthetics.

On its stand, the German company showcased a wide range of innovative packaging: folding cartons with high-end finishes, premium rigid boxes to reinforce brand image, and corrugated solutions combining strength and elegance.

"Each solution has been designed to minimize the environmental footprint, promoting resource efficiency, recyclability, plastic elimination as well as compliance with evolving regulations."says the group.

STI Group presented a series of folding cartons featuring textures, reliefs and metallic effects, offering brands new possibilities for standing out on the shelf in a highly competitive market.

The company also highlighted its rigid box and premium packaging solutions designed for high-end spirits and wines, combining sophistication, protection and durability while enhancing product prestige.

An approach driven by regulation and innovation 

Faced with new European directives (Green Deal, PPWR, deforestation regulations), STI Group has put forward its interactive checklist, a tool designed to help brands anticipate and comply with regulatory developments in sustainable packaging. In particular, it enables them to assess their packaging portfolios, identify key areas requiring action and stay ahead of compliance requirements, turning challenges into opportunities for differentiation.

"This edition of Paris Packaging Week was a fantastic opportunity to exchange views with brands and industry experts on the challenges and innovations ahead. Packaging, as we think and design it, must now combine aesthetics, performance and sustainability, and we are proud to accompany our customers in this transition."says Jean-Luc Colin, STI Group Sales Director for France.

In 2024, STI Group received Ecovadis Platinum certification for its entire group of companies.

The interactive checklist can be downloaded here.

Photo taken from the STI Group website.

Superga Beauty achieves highest level of EcoVadis recognition

Ecovadis Superga Beauty

Superga Beauty, French industrial partner to beauty brands, wins a Platinium EcoVadis medal.

Following an initial questionnaire completed in 2023 to enter the EcoVadis ranking, by January 2024 Superga Beauty had climbed to Gold level and into the top 5 % entities assessed, announcing that this was a first step in a more ambitious CSR commitment project. Barely a year later, in December 2024, the Group earned a Platinum medal, now ranking in the top 1 % with an overall score of 83/100.

EcoVadis evaluates four key aspects of a concrete, meaningful CSR policy: the environment, the social dimension and human rights, ethics and responsible purchasing.

Adherence to the "Science Based Target" initiative, signatory of the diversity charter, actions carried out with La Maison des Femmes de Saint-Denis, program for the professional reintegration of women victims of domestic violence, partnership with Fairtrade suppliers in India...: Superga Beauty's many complementary commitments were also selected to support its score.

"This Platinum medal from Ecovadis, awarded in the year following our Gold medal, is the result of a powerful collective commitment within our group, our determination to rise to every challenge, and a vision shared by our teams and partners. This commitment to CSR reflects the high standards and energy we put into everything we do on a daily basis, in the service of our customers and their projects".said Leslie Bréau Meniger, President of Superga Beauty.

Cosmogen expands its catalog with new and revamped products

COSMOGEN - PET PCR Make Up range

Cosmogen has made innovation one of its key pillars. After unveiling several new products at the Luxe Pack trade show in Monaco (September 29-October 2, 2024), the French specialist in application solutions for cosmetics presented several new products at Paris Packaging Week (January 28-29, 2025).

The Paper Stick, launched in 2023 for anhydrous cosmetic formulas in high-end packaging minimizing the use of plastic, is now 100% paper, including its ingenious mechanism.

Comogen also offers a complete makeup line in PET or PET-PCR: a compact in PET or r-PET, with two powder or eyeshadow palette options, enriches its dedicated makeup line which already includes sticks/RAL, brushes, mini-brushes and kabukis in PET and r-PET. 

COSMOGEN D50 MAXI SQUEEZEN COMB 1- Packaging - Product information

Cosmogen adds three applicators adapted to different hair types (curly, straight, fine, thick, curly, dry, etc.) to its Squeeze'n range to meet brands' skinification expectations.

Historically popular for eyes thanks to its round shape, Cosmogen's Tense Tube now also has a tip for lips, designed on the same principle of a cannula matched to a stainless steel metal part, beveled to facilitate application to the lips.

The Fresh Bottle collection features a satin-finish glass bottle with a ceramic applicator, while the Fresh Tube gets a luxury makeover with a ribbed metal applicator and gold cap.

The SME has also launched a new collection of three silver aluminum brushes and a stainless steel spatula, designed to create a mirror-effect skin. The originality of this range lies in the spatula, which invites a new gesture.

Cosmogen and Qualiform are also renewing their collaboration to create Tottle Needle, a marriage between Perla (15 ml) and the needle tip, designed for precision application of concentrated formulas.

État Pur chooses Albéa's EcoFusion Top 50 ml tube

Etat Pur - EcoFusion Top Albéa

Albéa's EcoFusion Top 50 ml seduced Naos for the repackaging of the "Pure Skincare" range from its État Pur brand, an innovative and ultra-personalized skincare brand.

État Pur, a biologically-based skincare company, is committed to reinventing its Pure Skincare packaging for daily moisturizers and cleansers. Eco-designed, they must be recyclable while reducing plastic consumption.

Albéa's EcoFusion Top reduces the amount of plastic used by 54 % compared with the previous 50 ml tube, and by 82 % compared with the previous 40 ml airless bottle.

"État Pur offers responsible solutions, both in terms of ingredients and packaging selection. says Camille Potier, Product Manager at État Pur. With the EcoFusion Top solution, Albéa supports our commitment to significantly reduce the environmental impact of our brand while offering our customers an attractive, modern design."

"We are honored and proud to support État Pur in achieving their sustainable goals with our EcoFusion Top solution.says Sophian Desmoulins, Key Account Manager. Collaborating with our customers on responsible product developments is absolutely essential to accelerate the transition to a circular economy in our industry."

Three État Pur references are already available. Others will be gradually rolled out until mid-2025.

Aptar Beauty unveils two innovations at Paris Packaging Week

Aptar Beauty

At Paris Packaging Week, Aptar Beauty, specialist in dispensing systems, presented two of its best-selling pumps, now designed in 100 % plastic, as well as a new mobile refill device for fragrances.

At Paris Packaging Week (January 28 and 29, 2025), Aptar Beauty exhibited a range of pumps made from 100 % polyolefin resins. Aptar Beauty's new Advance range includes two of Aptar's flagship pumps redesigned for better recyclability and environmental profile: the GSA Advance lotion pump and the PZ Advance spray pump, with a design similar to that of pumps popular with body care brands, no longer contain non-recyclable materials. Made entirely of plastic, the 2025 version of these iconic pumps is now made from 100 % polypropylene (PP) and polyethylene (PE), two polyolefin resins compatible with the main plastic recycling streams. And the user experience is in no way diminished!

site-industries-cosmetiques Two white bottles with pumps are on display. The one on the left is labelled "GSA Advance" and the one on the right "PZ Advance". Both bottles, similar to an automatic draft, emphasize high performance and advanced recyclability. The closures are labelled "Full Plastic" and "Twist".

"We wanted to launch this new range based on existing designs that were already popular with brands. Our customers were also looking for more eco-friendly solutions, but didn't want to change their brand identity. Unlike the design of our Future pump, which is entirely recyclable, the Advance range remains faithful to the iconic designs of our best-selling pumps.says Delphine Bony, Marketing Manager Beauty & Personal Care EMEA at Aptar.

The two pumps in the Advance range have motors made entirely of plastic (PP and PE). Combined with an HDPE, PP or PET bottle, they are classified as "highly recyclable" by the independent certification agency Institute Cyclos-HTP. They are POM-free and can also incorporate PCR (Post-Consumer Recycled Resinpost-consumer recycled plastic).

GSA Advance for personal care

Designed for hair and body care products, the GSA Advance lotion pump maintains smooth activation. The plastic spring is positioned outside the dosing chamber and delivers a 2 cc dose, ensuring compatibility with a wide variety of formulas, including high-viscosity and water-based ones.

Its Twist-to-Lock twist-lock system allows the pump to be sealed in both open and closed positions. It is also e-commerce* compatible, and features an optional e-clip (in PP, also available up to 100 % PCR), offering additional protection during transport.

Fully interchangeable with the standard GSA pump, it is manufactured at Aptar's Chieti plant in Italy. It operates on the same finishing lines, making it compatible with the same decor or design options, starting with two standard push-button designs available. The pump's modular architecture offers numerous design customization options.

Production samples of this 2025 version of the GSA pump will be ready by March 2025, with manufacturing to be duplicated on the American continent to serve the market locally.

PZ Advance: a spray for all viscosities

The PZ Advance pump is based on the design of the PZ Twist spray pump. " The Twist pump is a huge success. Our customers have been asking for a recyclable version of this pump for a long time. Designing it in full polyolefin, with a real sensorial experience, represented a real technical challenge, because it was necessary to obtain a good spray quality without having to use a metal spring, even for complex and viscous formulas such as oils and sun creams".explains Delphine Bony.

Made entirely of polyolefin, with a plastic motor, the PZ Advance pump delivers a 190 mcl dose. Its design is optimized for e-commerce* needs. A non-removable tamper-evident seal can be included as an option.

Manufactured in Dortmund, Germany, the pump will be available early in the second quarter of 2025 with production samples.

Other references are being studied for launch in 2026.

"All-plastic, recyclable packaging is the next step in the journey towards greater sustainability for products. The Advance collection represents a new era in packaging. We aim to revolutionize the market with this innovative range of high-performance pumps with an iconic design, made entirely of plastic, and backed by reliable, consumer-tested references."says Luigi Garofalo, Global Category Manager for Personal Care and Home Care.

Nomad Refill: a refillable bag spray that's easy to use

At Paris Packaging Week, Aptar Beauty also unveiled Nomad Refill, the first 10-ml bag spray that refills directly onto the perfume bottle, quickly, cleanly and safely, without pumping. Aptar Beauty's idea: to enhance and improve the fragrance refill experience, making it easier to refill on the move.

site-industries-cosmetiques A hand with carefully manicured nails delicately holds a vial of liquid labeled "Parfumeur nomade". The transparent vial sparkles with sophistication against a plain beige background, accompanied by the fragmented reflection of a larger glass object. In this setting, creativity meets elegance, recalling the spirit of Brouillon.

Nomad Refill is a bag spray that can be refilled directly onto the perfume bottle originally purchased. The refill process is compatible with any bottle using an SNI15 screw-in pump, following a few simple steps: unscrew the pump from the fragrance bottle and remove the bottom cap from the Nomad Refill base, then screw the Nomad Refill connector onto the fragrance bottle, and turn the whole assembly over. Then pull lightly on Nomad Refill to activate the gravity refill process: the fragrance flows rapidly into the refill, which stops automatically, leaving an expansion space in the bottle to avoid any risk of overfilling or overpressure. Once the flow is complete, simply reposition the bottle and remove the Nomad Refill. Five seconds are all it takes to fill the refill, and the process can be interrupted at any time simply by releasing the pressure on the bottle. No need to pump!

"There are refillable solutions in the small-format bottle market."reload" with a bottle that can be replaced, but most small formats are not "refillable" (rechargeable). And the few solutions that do exist are based on rather complicated gestures. As far as we're concerned, we're proposing a breakthrough innovation "explains Sophie Magdelaine, Senior Manager, Global Fragrance Platform at Aptar Beauty. 

"With Nomad Refill, we aim to simplify consumers' lives by improving the user experience.adds Xavier Joseph, VP Global Marketing & Innovation.

Beyond the minimalist gesture it offers, which simplifies the act of refilling compared with alternative offerings, this Aptar system prevents leaks during refilling, thanks to a watertight connection between the main bottle and the connector, to guarantee clean use right down to the last drop of fragrance.

"The market is ready for this innovation. Mini formats are booming, especially in the home refillable category. They are no longer considered inferior to perfume bottles. Consumers now see them as more than a sample; they've become veritable objects of desire. Nomad Refill responds to existing and emerging consumer habits, and we have high expectations for this launch.emphasizes Sophie Magdelaine.

Nomad Refill is fully customizable. The pack offers a wide range of personalization options to suit a wide variety of brand aesthetics, from lifestyle to prestige, with all types of decoration (coloration, metallic engraving, etc.), right through to the most elaborate finishes. Brands can also opt for a unique, personalized luxury case, imagined in co-development with Aptar Beauty's Custom team, following the example of the trend towards ultra-personalized, high-end cases for lipsticks. According to Aptar, studies have shown that the perceived value of this product is equivalent to that of a perfume bottle when sold on its own, especially when adorned with a personalized case, with added emotional value.

The Nomad Refill offer is available in a standard pilot version (transparent bottle and customizable caps). For brands, it can be supplied filled and delivered.

*E-commerce compatible thanks to the Ista-6 test. Test results may vary according to the shape and size of the vial and the formula of the sample tested. 

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