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Innov'alliance organizes the first naturalness days

By
The editorial staff
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The Innov'Alliance competitiveness cluster is organizing the first Journées de la Naturalité, a business convention dedicated to professionals from the agricultural, agri-food, cosmetics, nutraceutical, fragrance and flavor industries; interacting across the entire value chain, from agricultural production to product processing. Two hundred naturalness players and experts are expected at the Palais des Papes in Avignon for the Journées de la Naturalité.

The first Journées de la Naturalité are organized around a number of key events, with several objectives in mind:

- Generate new business relationships and initiate partnerships between professionals, within the framework of a business convention and BtoB meetings. These targeted meetings put Naturalité players in touch with each other and contribute to the ecosystem's performance. Participants registered for the Journées de la Naturalité can schedule their BtoB meetings online from September 26.

- Disseminate technical and scientific news with a program of conferences and round tables dedicated to naturalness, a development lever with very high economic and societal potential for companies. Topics to be addressed include consumer perceptions and expectations, foodification of well-being, sustainable sourcing and agroecology, the benefits of Agritech for developing naturalness, how to reformulate natural products, integrating biotechnologies into industrialization processes, upcycling opportunities for new ingredients and formulations, etc. The results of large-scale surveys on the consumption and promotion of naturalness will also be presented.

- Share the Livre Blanc de la Naturalité économique, a reference work that lays the foundations of the concept by proposing a stabilized definition, the fruit of theoretical reflection and practical study. The Livre Blanc de la Naturalité économique provides strategic recommendations and actions for companies wishing to enter the Naturalité approach and create added value. It also looks at changing consumer trends and expectations in terms of CSR commitments.

The international Cosmetic 360 trade show, a springboard for innovation, returns for its 8th edition

By
Cosmetic Valley
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The world's leading event for innovation in the perfumery and cosmetics industry returns to the Carrousel du Louvre on October 12 and 13, 2022, bringing together over 220 exhibitors from 16 countries. This international show covers accelerations in a wide range of fields (sourcing, technologies, CSR, etc.), offering a 360° innovation showcase for major players, start-ups, SMEs, researchers and innovative project leaders from the 4 corners of the globe. This 8th edition will be held under the banner of technological revolutions, driven in particular by the rise of artificial intelligence.

Artificial intelligence in the spotlight for this 8e edition. Discover AI throughout the show with :  

  • An "AI for Cosmetics" village hosted by the Ile-de-France region and the Choose Paris Region attraction agency
  • The AI TechCorner, where a CNRS laboratory will present a skin diagnostic tool that will enable the development of personalized products,
  • The Open Innovation IA program by CHANEL, L'OREAL, LVMH Research, joined for the first time by Pharma & Beauty Group,
  • The IA Jury's "Coup de Coeur" prize for the Cosmetic 360 Awards to reward a notable innovation among exhibitors.
  • A program of conferences dedicated to Artificial Intelligence (sponsor: Ecomundo) based on 4 themes: 
    • Artificial intelligence and society
    • Artificial intelligence and the environment 
    • Artificial intelligence and marketing
    • Artificial intelligence and industrial performance
  • A SupplyChain4ResponsibleBeauty hackathon (sponsor: Groupe Deret). 
  • The Greentech experience: Thanks to virtual reality, take to the skies in the Greentech hot-air balloon for a journey through time that will take you through the history of cosmetic ingredients, from prehistory to today's connected beauty.
  • An "AI for Cosmetics" village hosted by the Ile-de-France region and the Choose Paris Region attraction agency
  • The AI TechCorner, where a CNRS laboratory will present a skin diagnostic tool that will enable the development of personalized products,
  • The Open Innovation IA program by CHANEL, L'OREAL, LVMH Research, joined for the first time by Pharma & Beauty Group,
  • The IA Jury's "Coup de Coeur" prize for the Cosmetic 360 Awards to reward a notable innovation among exhibitors.
  • A program of conferences dedicated to Artificial Intelligence (sponsor: Ecomundo) based on 4 themes: 
    • Artificial intelligence and society
    • Artificial intelligence and the environment 
    • Artificial intelligence and marketing
    • Artificial intelligence and industrial performance
  • A SupplyChain4ResponsibleBeauty hackathon (sponsor: Groupe Deret). 
  • The Greentech experience: Thanks to virtual reality, take to the skies in the Greentech hot-air balloon for a journey through time that will take you through the history of cosmetic ingredients, from prehistory to today's connected beauty.

The show's other spearheads

If AI is a highlight of 2022, COSMETIC 360 will be the scene of many innovations with two other flagship themes: 

  • Eco-responsibility with new resource-saving cosmetics solutions: solid cosmetics, bio-sourced formulations, upcycling.
  • Wellness with wellness innovations combining cosmetics, neuroscience and new sensorial ingredients.

Discover also

  • The Cosmetopeai zone, where two European projects will be presented. AgriWaste Value and InnCoCells concern, respectively, co-products from arboriculture and viticulture for cosmetics, and the development of natural raw materials for the industry.
  • The Factory zone dedicated to innovative equipment manufacturers.
  • Start-up village with 30 innovative young companies (sponsor Beauty Tech Chartres).
  • More international buyers to meet on the Business France / Team France export stand.

COSMETIC 360 will also welcome several delegations from international cosmetics clusters: Canada, Thailand, Taiwan, Spain, Portugal, Italy, the UK, Colombia, South Korea, and France, including the local authority of Martinique.

Don't wait any longer to register

Two new Eri 360°-labeled ingredients for Gattefossé

By
The editorial staff
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Face of Caucasian woman looking at camera

In 2021, the Gattefossé group will label three key active ingredients in its cosmetics portfolio, Gatuline Link n Lift, Gatuline Renew and EnergiNius under the Eri 360° label. To build on this momentum, the company has announced the labeling of two new major cosmetic ingredients: Gatuline RC Bio and EleVastin.

And this time, all at Silver level!

Eri 360°: more than just a label

A natural extract of beech buds, this active ingredient is a veritable elixir of youth, responding to the skin's natural needs. Moisturized, energized and smoothed, skin radiates beauty and health. Beech buds are harvested in France, in areas close to the Gattefossé group's production site in Saint-Priest. A proximity that considerably reduces the carbon footprint associated with transport. The entirely manual harvest, certified organic, is a guarantee of quality with regard to the preserving biodiversity, flora and resources. Such is the case with water. Beech trees are not irrigated, and the buds, frozen directly on site to avoid enzymatic degradation, do not need to be washed. It's important to note that buds are harvested in limited quantities, from low branches, in order to avoid any damage to the tree's future development. This plant active ingredient is also obtained through a global production process that does not use no chemical solvents, from harvesting the buds to obtaining the final extract. The ingredient is Cosmos certified and displays a natural content of 96.8% according to Iso 16128.

The strengths that make EleVastin stand out

This active ingredient is the targeted solution for boosting the skin's elastic capital and combating sagging. It is derived from the leafy stems of the Murraya koenigii. In association with a long-standing local partner, the stems are hand-harvested in the protected environment of Reunion Island, on managed plots of land. no-input (without fertilizers or pesticides). A perfect traceability is guaranteed from the tree to the Gattefossé laboratories. Cultivation requires no irrigation given the island's water-rich climate. Leaves from branches cut off during pruning operations are also recovered. This makes it possible to minimize waste and have a beneficial effect on tree growth.

This active ingredient is obtained using a LTTM (Low Transition Temperature Mixture) blend of plant-derived solvents and a NaDes extraction process. The ingredient is approved Cosmos and displays a natural content of 100% according to Iso 16128.

Sustainability of raw materials, a genuine eco-responsible development strategy for the Gattefossé Group

"Our responsible and sustainable development strategy, at the heart of our CSR roadmap, starts right from the development of our ingredients. We see the ERI 360° label as a key tool for our R&D teams to optimize the sourcing of our raw materials, to integrate eco-design principles into every stage of cosmetics product development, and to manage their implementation right through to production. Biodegradability, upcycling, resource management, eco-designed packaging, etc. are all criteria we aim to constantly improve for our future developments. A commitment we share with all our customers.

We will therefore pursue Eri 360° certification for other products in our current portfolio and for future developments. explains Paula Lennon, Group Cosmetics Director.

"Gattefossé has always integrated environmental and human aspects into its entire value chain. It is this reasoned approach to our activities that we continue to develop today, as it is a powerful lever for innovation and performance for our group. Eri 360° fits in perfectly with our corporate project, Gatt'Up&Act, as it enables us to reinforce the sustainability of our ingredients, by assessing all the impacts of our production, and giving us ways of minimizing them.

This year's results are the fruit of a genuine commitment on the part of all our teams (R&D, purchasing, sourcing, production, HSE, etc.), as well as our stakeholders, who support us in this responsible approach." explains Laurent Schubnel, Group CSR Manager.

Eri360, Gattefossé ingredients awarded bronze and silver labels

Bronze: EnergiNius

Silver: Gatuline Renew, Gatuline Link n Lift, Gatuline RC Bio, EleVastin

Pierre Fabre becomes the first major industrial group to be awarded the "Exemplary" level of Afnor Certification's Committed to CSR label

By
The editorial staff
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The Pierre Fabre Group's CSR approach has just been recognized by the independent body AFNOR Certification at the "Exemplary" level of its Engagé RSE label (internationally recognized under the Responsibility Europe label). With an overall score of 788 points out of a total of 1,000, Pierre Fabre joins the Top 1% of 266 companies and becomes the first industrial group with over 5,000 employees to be awarded the "Exemplary" label by Afnor Certification. This result confirms the performance of the CSR approach implemented by the Group since 2019 within Green Mission Pierre Fabre.
More demanding than a self-declaration or online questionnaire, the label awarded by Afnor Certification requires the company to provide objective evidence of its control over the social, environmental and economic impacts of its activities, and to do so on site. Between April and May 2022, Afnor Certification auditors assessed all the company's departments, 3 industrial sites, a distribution site, 4 international subsidiaries, 3 dermo-cosmetics brands (Eau Thermale Avène, Klorane, Naturactive) and the department in charge of some of the Group's medicines. They also met with a wide range of external stakeholders (customers, suppliers, regulatory authorities, local authorities, scientific partners).

" By placing respect for people, nature and the land above all else, our founder was a pioneer of sustainable development. Today, it's up to us to perpetuate his vision and rise to the challenges created by global warming in terms of decarbonation and naturalness. This is the ambition of Green Mission Pierre Fabre, which we launched in 2019 as part of the company's transformation plan. For us, it was essential to have the initial results of this approach assessed by an independent certifying body in order to objectify our performance and identify our avenues for improvement. Transparency and continuous improvement are at the heart of our approach. "says Eric Ducournau, General Manager of the Pierre & Vacances Group.
Fabre.

The Engagé RSE label examines more than 50 criteria grouped around 5 general themes - CSR vision and associated governance, operational implementation of CSR strategy, human resources and working conditions, sustainable production and consumption methods, territorial anchorage and local development - to which are added 3 results themes: environmental results, social results and economic results. For each of these 8 themes and criteria, Pierre Fabre scored above 75%, with peaks of 87% for territorial anchorage and 82% for social indicators.

" The Pierre Fabre Group is further consolidating its long-standing commitment to sustainable development, in line with the company's mission as envisioned by its founder. Moving from a logic of controlling negative impacts to one of optimizing positive societal impacts is a reality, and the company has truly demonstrated the relevance of its thinking in this area. "commented Muriel Lassus-Pigat, independent CSR Assessor for Afnor Certification, in her audit conclusions.
In its audit report, Afnor Certification's assessors highlighted a number of strong points, including :
- The creation of the cross-functional Green Mission Pierre Fabre and its direct reporting to General Management
- Ensuring that the Ethics Charter is clearly visible and regularly updated
- Strong regional roots
- Decarbonization policy
- Attention to stakeholders
- HR training and internal mobility policies
- The international employee share ownership plan
- Responsible sourcing of plants used by the Group
- The design and international deployment of the Green Impact Index, a tool for measuring the eco-socio-design of products.
- The development of a solvent-free extraction technology (Green Native Expression).

" This labeling at the highest level of the Engagé RSE label is in line with the assessments we have had carried out regularly by independent bodies since 2012. We have given new impetus to our CSR and naturalness approach with the creation of Green Mission Pierre Fabre in 2019, and it was our duty to draw up an initial assessment after 3 years of mobilizing all energies within the company. The assessment carried out by AFNOR Certification also opens up new avenues for progress. I'm thinking, for example, of a better integration of CSR criteria in our purchasing, the reinforcement of CSR training in our international subsidiaries and the development of a more ambitious sobriety strategy. "said Florence Guillaume, Green Mission Director at Pierre Fabre.

BSB Environment Innovation Award - Lipoid Kosmetik's PhytoCollagen wins another award

By
The editorial staff
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Lipoid Kosmetik is a leading manufacturer of high quality botanical extracts, actives and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetic and personal care industry. Following the success of the 20th BSB Innovation Awards last spring, we are pleased to announce that our new active ingredient, PhytoCollagen plant collagen, has been awarded the 2nd prize in the BSB Innovation Award Environment in the category of raw material protection and skin hydration. The BSB Innovation Award Environment aims to promote innovation in the fields of cosmetics and natural products and rewards finished products, production processes and raw materials with a positive impact on the environment. The international jury awarded a "strong eco-social impact" to the vegan and sustainable alternative to collagen from acacia, which has similar beauty benefits compared to animal collagen. We are very pleased with the great success of PhytoCollagen, as it confirms our continuous effort to develop new and innovative products that also have a positive impact in terms of sustainability.

New name, new strategy - paving the way for a sustainable future:

By
The editorial staff
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In keeping with the company's Fachpack 2022 motto, "the future is in action," Schur Rexibles, the expert in sustainable flexible packaging solutions, has announced a new company name to underscore its new forward-looking strategy. Headquartered in Austria, the fast-growing European group connects 2,200 employees and 22 production sites in eleven countries. It is a leading advocate of sustainability in packaging and a producer of highly specialized packaging films. The new name Adapa is the next logical step for a company whose group members have strengthened their collaboration to meet new challenges.

Past expansion - present success

With its European centers of excellence, Schur Rexibles, now adapa, has established a solid foundation based on sustainability and innovation. The centers work closely together to provide the full range of integrated solutions along the value chain for the food, hygiene, flavor protection and pharmaceutical industries. This puts the company in an ideal position to be a gas pedal of change for a better world and a trusted partner to its customers.

Juan Luis Martinez Arteaga, CEO of adapa, comments, " We would like to thank our customers, partners and employees. They are all part of our success story and have helped us get to where we are today despite challenging times. The new name reflects our belief that together we can build a strong and sustainable foundation for future growth." .

Adapting to the future

The new name, adapa, derived from "adaptive packaging," emphasizes one of the company's core values, namely adapting to a changing world. The new strategy includes short- and long-term measures focused on sustainability, organic growth, operational excellence and innovation/digitization. adapa's sustainability strategy will strive to establish a true circular economy for flexible packaging and ensure that the carbon footprint is optimized at every stage of the process. Organic growth will enable the company to strengthen its leadership role in regional markets. In this area, adapa's Centers of Excellence will provide technical expertise and customized innovations, enabling mid-sized customers to become regional champions with global opportunities. adapa's operational excellence strategy will ensure high levels of flexibility and highly efficient configuration for S ME manufacturers with small and medium-sized production runs and selected key accounts. These goals are based on adapa's core values: Creating an environment of trust, accountability and reliability, as well as a team spirit and continuous improvement when working with customers.

Regulatory changes in allergen labelling: Phytodia is ahead of the game and offers manufacturers a technical solution for the analysis of new labelled allergens (57 + 25 in total)

By
The editorial staff
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Following the opinion of the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) in 2012, the draft "Allergen Regulation" has just been submitted by the European Union. It confirms the recommendations of the SCCS: several dozen labelable allergens will be added to the list of those currently mentioned in Annex III of the Cosmetics Regulation (EC 1223/2009). In total, the list is increased to 82 labelable allergens. Among them, 57 substances and 25 natural extracts will now be compulsorily controlled in raw materials and cosmetic ingredients, as well as in finished products, and be indicated on their packaging. The implementation of this "Allergen Regulation" is scheduled for the first half of 2023.   With 18 years of experience in the field of natural molecule analysis by chromatography, Phytodia is taking the lead in this regulatory evolution and is now offering an adapted and affordable technical solution for all manufacturers of raw materials and cosmetic products. This solution allows the detection and analysis of extremely low thresholds (less than 1ppm, or 0.000001%) for these 57 allergenic substances.  
 Allergens are substances present in cosmetic products in the form of small volatile and odorous molecules that can cause allergic reactions at the application site. They come mainly from fragrance ingredients and are listed on the product label so that users can quickly identify them. If until now, the European Commission imposed the mention of 26 allergenic substances in the list of ingredients of cosmetic products, they will now be 57. Therefore, manufacturers must control these 57 allergenic substances and 25 natural extracts in raw materials and cosmetic ingredients, as well as in finished products, and indicate them on their packaging when their concentration exceeds 0.001 % in leave-on products and 0.01 % in rinse-off products.
cosmetic products, in order to best contribute to the safety of consumers.

The deadlines to comply with these new requirements are 3 years to withdraw non-compliant cosmetic products from the market and 5 years for those that have been placed on the market before the new labeling provisions become applicable. The implementation of this "Allergens Regulation" is scheduled for the first half of 2023. In concrete terms, this means that manufacturers will have to have new methods of analysis and dosage in order to be able to adapt their labeling to the requirements of European regulations and to continue to ensure optimal consumer protection. Phytodia's analytical experts, with 18 years of experience in chromatographic analysis, have anticipated this evolution and have been offering for several months an analysis solution perfectly suited to all raw material and process manufacturers.

" Regulations are changing regularly and manufacturers need to have clear answers on how to comply with these changes. This is precisely Phytodia's unique expertise: to allow the technical translation of these regulatory requirements. Many manufacturers have already anticipated these changes in regulations and are already performing allergen dosages according to the list, because the stakes are high. "explains Nicolas Rohrbacher, Doctor of Pharmacy and Head of Research and Development at Phytodia.

[podcast] Cosmetic 360, innovation in three dimensions

By
editocom
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On the occasion of the next edition of Cosmetic 360, to be held on October 12 and 13, 2022 at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris, we turned the microphone over to Franckie Béchereau, show director; Amandine Goubert, innovation director; and Christophe Masson, managing director of Cosmetic Valley.

All three report on the state of the show, innovation and international relations. Three flash episodes to help you prepare for your visit!

Shiseido to acquire Gallinée, a microbiome-based skin care brand

By
The editorial staff
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On September 28, 2022, Shiseido Europe S.A., a subsidiary of Shiseido Company, Limited, entered into an agreement to acquire all of the outstanding shares of Gallinée Ltd ("Gallinée"), a London-based beauty brand dedicated to caring for the skin microbiome from head to toe. The acquisition of Gallinée illustrates Shiseido's commitment to the skin beauty category, helping us achieve our mission of integrating skin beauty and inner beauty, while continuing to position ourselves to "be a global winner with our heritage." This commitment is part of our "Win 2023 and Beyond" strategy, which aims to become the leading global company in the category by 2030.

Gallinée was founded in 2014 by Marie Drago, PharmD, a world-renowned expert on the skin microbiome. The skin microbiome plays a vital role on our skin and overall health by protecting us from the outside world. The brand offers a line of science-backed beauty products featuring a patented complex of prebiotics, probiotics and postbiotics that nourish and strengthen the skin microbiome. Gallinée will be a unique addition to Shiseido's existing portfolio, given its focus on beauty and wellness, as well as its differentiated positioning in the emerging field of skin microbiome. As part of the Shiseido Group, Gallinée will be able to leverage the resources of our commercial infrastructure, R＆D's extensive capabilities, particularly our European Innovation Center, to lead the development of the skin microbiome in EMEA, and cross-functional expertise to continue to drive the growth of the brand.

Following the transaction, Marie Drago, PharmD, will join Shiseido's Emea team and continue to provide product innovation and support Gallinée as the brand's Chief Creative Officer, reporting directly to Franck Marilly, President ＆ CEO, Shiseido Emea ＆ Global Fragrance.

Revitalide - Encapsulated Retinol for advanced skin care

By
The editorial staff
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Wrinkles, stretch marks, skin imperfections and scars... For decades, retinol has demonstrated its incredible beauty benefits, but also its drawbacks: skin irritation and chemical instability.


Sederma is pleased to present its encapsulated version of this hero ingredient: Revitalide is a submicronic lipid particle carrying 3 % of active retinol. This high-tech capsule offers enhanced stability, protecting retinol from degradation and making it easy to store and formulate. The capsule's small particle size and unique lipid composition significantly enhance bioavailability in the skin, with a controlled release process for encapsulated retinol.
The active ingredient's protection and enhanced release into the skin reinforce retinol's efficacy, minimizing its level of use while offering excellent cutaneous tolerance. Skin diffusion of Revitalide measured on skin expanders showed a 7-fold increase in retinol diffusion into the skin compared with non-encapsulated retinol.
This IECIC-compliant ingredient is also a sustainable ingredient with a natural origin content of 95.50 % according to ISO 16128, is 100 % and readily biodegradable in 28 days, RSPO approved and can be stored at room temperature.

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