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Gattefossé & CTIBiotech develop the first connected chip to measure bioimpedance in 3D bioprinted skin

Sebum is a complex mixture of lipids secreted by sebocytes and deposited in the stratum corneum to contribute to the skin's barrier function. Disruption of sebum production is associated with skin conditions such as acne or atopic dermatitis, and also affects the appearance and beauty of the skin, contributing to the development of oily or dry skin.

Confirmation in vivoIn vitro testing of efficacy in healthy volunteers remains a critical stage, with a high failure or disappointment rate. This is why cosmetics laboratories continue to search for the most relevant biological markers, and to develop test methods that will enable them to assess the efficacy of their products. in vitro fast, easy to install, robust and.., in fine, as predictive as possible.

Gattefossé and CTIBiotech have joined forces to develop a 3D bio-printed model of the skin incorporating sebocytes, which can be used to measure the following parameters in vitro non-invasive measurement techniques in vivo and experimental laboratory data.

Bioimpedance (or bioelectrical impedance analysis) has long been used to monitor changes in our body fat mass, making it a personalized indicator for monitoring our health at home (bathroom scales). Using connected tools, Gattefossé and CTIBiotech have used bioimpedance to assess changes in the local environment of a 3D skin model incorporating sebocytes. Measuring such non-invasive electrical activity enabled real-time monitoring of sebum production, alongside laboratory analyses of the model's cellular, matrix and tissue development.

Bio-impedance has long been used in our bathroom scales and by dieticians to understand overall body composition. Applying this technique to the skin is an obvious step forward, but the real innovation lies in the development of real-time analysis of sebum changes. We have perfected our 3D-printed full-skin models with an integrated bio-impedance chip connected to monitor changes. By linking cosmetics screening in this way, we're making faster progress towards human testing and increasing our ability to make more effective products, explains Prof. Colin McGuckin, President and Scientific Director, CTIBiotech

Sebocyte-containing skin models have reproducible sebum production, which is increased by linoleic acid and decreased by Tofa. This is characterized by significant changes in bioimpedance both in the imprinted tissue and in the surrounding culture supernatants. Bioimpedance, linked to sebum production, is therefore proving to be a clean, non-invasive in vitro parameter that can be measured in real time, to design ever more predictive and effective tests: indeed, the 3D models described here and linked to a simple chip system, accurately reflect changes in both skin models and living donors.  "explains Dr. Nicolas Bechetoille, Ph.D/HDR - Head of R&D skin biology, Gattefossé

This work will be presented at the 32ème IFSCC Congress in London, September 19-22, 2022

The Pochet Group and the Fives Group announce a partnership for an electric furnace dedicated to the Luxury Bottle industry

The Pochet Group, a key partner of the luxury goods industry specializing in the manufacture of packaging for perfume, skincare and make-up, and Fives, an international industrial engineering group, are combining their expertise to reduce carbon emissions and offer greener glass production.


Pochet du Courval, the division of the Pochet Group, experts in the art of shaping glass for 400 years, aims to reduce its CO2 emissions by 50% by 2033 and to offer its customers decarbonated glass. The Guimerville plant, located in Normandy - France, is a veritable industrial flagship, manufacturing and decorating over a million glass bottles and jars every day for the most prestigious perfume and beauty brands.


Fives, a market leader in all-electric smelting technologies, will design and supply an electric furnace for the Guimerville plant. This advanced furnace design uses Prium E-Melt cold-vault melting technology, one of the most advanced available, to significantly reduce CO² emissions. The furnace is based on Fives' outstanding operational experience in electric melting.
This project, backed by the Pochet Group's private family shareholders, represents a major investment and requires major technological and human transformations.


" This electric furnace will be the very first French furnace dedicated to luxury bottles. It will enable us to drastically reduce our CO2 emissions by producing largely carbon-free glass for the perfume, skincare and make-up brands that will deliver the beauty of tomorrow. "says Benoit Marszalek, Pochet du Courval's Director of Operations.


" Fives is committed to providing innovative solutions based on our proven technology to electrify the glassmaking process. In this way, we are helping industrial partners to achieve their decarbonization objectives, as well as training technicians and operators at plant level. "says Alexandre Brusset, Glass Director at Fives.
By forming this strategic partnership, the two groups - Pochet and Fives - aim to make glass production more respectful of the environment.

TheBetterBarrel: Schwan Cosmetics and Sulapac create a cosmetic pencil with a plant-based barrel to offer the next alternative to conventional plastic

Schwan Cosmetics has launched the first cosmetic color pencils made with sustainable Sulapac materials. TheBetterBarrel" responds to market demand for environmentally-friendly make-up products that don't sacrifice quality, performance or style.
Schwan Cosmetics, a German supplier of make-up products to most of the world's leading cosmetics companies, and Finnish materials innovation start-up Sulapac have collaborated to create lip and eye pencils whose bodies are made from sustainable materials capable of retaining the volatile ingredients they contain.


To date, the main difficulty in using biobased materials in cosmetic pencils lies in the fact that most natural materials are not capable of holding the volatile ingredients of high-performance formulas. This is why, today, most make-up pencils are wrapped in virgin plastic.
The pencils were designed in response to market research into the changing demands of Generation Z and Millennial cosmetics consumers. According to the Deloitte Millennial survey, the importance of reconnecting with nature became evident during the COVID-19 pandemic. Consumers wanted to take care of nature and feel in touch with it. These consumers are also committed to making positive changes in their communities and the world.


Consumers will now be able to discover long-lasting, high-performance lip and eye pencils, packaged in innovative pencil barrels. The eco-friendly, hermetically sealed packaging containing the volatile ingredients is made from 72 % biobased materials, lateral wood chips and natural binders.
While sustainable materials have been implemented in beauty product packaging in recent years, this is the first time Sulapac's alternative plastic material has been used in colored cosmetic pencils.


This is a breakthrough for us, because we've been able to invent a better material for encapsulating our pencils. This replaces virgin plastic with a material that leaves no permanent microplastics on the planet!
And we didn't have to compromise on the quality or performance of our durable, highly pigmented shades. This line is designed to come in an infinite variety of textures and colors, and the drum material must be first-rate to preserve its integrity. Through our collaboration with Sulapac, we are not only creating an innovative product for our customers, we are also investing in a more sustainable future for the cosmetics industry. We will continue to strive to make the world a little better every day.
" says Dr Alexander Doll, Head of Research and Development at Schwan Cosmetics.


The eco-friendly barrel was created thanks to the joint expertise of Sulapac and Schwan Cosmetics in their respective sectors. The pencil cup is made from Sulapac Flow v1.8 material, derived from sawdust from industrial by-products and plant-based binders.
Both Schwan and Sulapac place sustainability at the forefront of their values. Schwan has set itself ambitious targets such as zero net carbon emissions by 2040, as well as a product range containing 50 % less virgin fossil plastic in primary packaging and 75 % less products of natural origin by 2025.

We have 700 customers in 70 different countries. As a global supplier to so many brands, creating more sustainable products has a significant impact on the environment in the real world. In response, our customers are increasingly demanding sustainable products, especially for their Generation Z and millennial consumers. At the same time, our customers don't want to lose selection, performance or the ability to design their products in line with their own brand. Our collaboration with Sulapac is perfect because they embody the values of preserving nature without sacrificing performance and design flexibility." says Sandra Lossau, Vice President Global Category Management at Schwan Cosmetics.
The design principle behind Sulapac is to imitate nature. Like a piece of wood on the forest floor, Sulapac materials can be digested by natural micro-organisms and decompose into carbon dioxide, water and biomass, leaving no trace behind. The company is also known for its aesthetics and performance, and has been creating sustainable materials for the beauty industry since 2016, collaborating with brands such as Chanel, Lumene and Shiseido.

It's a joint cooperation that wouldn't have been possible without each other's expertise - we're better together. Schwan is a major international supplier to a wide range of brands worldwide. As a major player in the industry, they have a real impact on the beauty ecosystem and the environment. Sulapac's mission is to work together to save the world from plastic waste. Collaboration with industry leaders like Schwan is very important because of the huge volume they produce." says Dr Suvi Haimi, CEO and co-founder of Sulapac.


The BetterBarrel product range will be officially launched at MakeUp New York on September 14 and 15.


The campaign includes :
Xplore Superstay Eyeliner Once applied, the precision-gliding eyeliner lasts up to 17 hours - for a perfect evening look that's still as fresh as the morning. The clean, vegan eyeliner features a highly pigmented, smudge- and water-resistant formula and applies smoothly.


Rebel21 Superstay Liplinen Clean, vegan lip liner perfectly highlights lips for up to 13 hours - for long days and wild nights. Its soft, glide-on formula is lightweight and won't fade. Thanks to its tip, the lip contour is perfectly defined and the color is intense.


Sulapac is a patented, award-winning biological alternative to conventional plastics. It accelerates a future free of plastic waste with sustainable materials that are beautiful and functional. Just like nature. The Helsinki-ba- sed company was founded in 2016 by Dr. Suvi Haimi, Dr. Laura Tirkkonen-Rajasalo and Dr. Antti Parssinen. Its investors include Chanel and Sky Ocean Ventures. Sulapac has been ranked among Europe's 100 hottest startups by Wired UK in 2018, 2019 and 2021, and among the Nordic startups to watch in 2021 by Sifted, supported by the Financial Times.

Regenixir, Silab's innovation rewarded twice!

Silab was doubly honored by receiving two awards in two weeks for its regenerating anti-aging active Regenixir.

This August, Regenixir received two separate awards from the Chinese beauty industry: the Ringier Technology Innovation Award in the Effective Ingredients category and the Icic Award in the Technology Innovation Ingredient category.

For Brigitte Closs-Gonthier, Managing Director of Innovation, they are the result of Silab's innovation strategy and its investment policy (20% of sales are dedicated to R&D each year): " We are delighted to receive these two awards, which highlight the high level of scientific expertise of our product Regenixir. For this biotechnological anti-aging active ingredient, we have acquired new technological expertise through the establishment of partnerships with two prestigious international research laboratories. "

For this innovation, Silab developed a novel modeling study, made possible by the internalization of expertise required to develop innovative vascular and immune cell models. The company has demonstrated for the first time that the interconnectivity of the skin, vascular and immune systems, which is necessary for the skin regeneration process, is weakened during aging. By revitalizing cellular interconnectivity, Regenixir allows for rapid and global regeneration of mature skin.

For Silab, which generates 60% of its sales from exports, this recognition is proof of its ability to offer global solutions that meet the expectations of consumers in the global cosmetics industry.

On the occasion of the group's 60th anniversary, the Domaine du Carla will open its doors to the public for the first time during the European Heritage Days

To celebrate the Group's 60th anniversary, three emblematic Pierre Fabre sites will open their doors during the 39thème edition of the European Heritage Days, on Saturday 17 and Sunday 18 September. A great first for the Domaine du Carla located in a green setting nestled in the Sidobre, in the middle of hundred-year-old trees. During these 2 days, young and old will also be able to discover the Botanical Conservatory and the Soual factory. The gardens and greenhouses of the Conservatory will reveal all the secrets of Pierre Fabre cosmetic and pharmaceutical products through a unique plant heritage. Located a few steps from the Conservatory, the Soual production plant can also be visited free of charge. This is an opportunity to go behind the scenes of 3 unique places to understand the origins, the functioning, the ambitions of the 2ème private French pharmaceutical company and 2ème a global dermo-cosmetic laboratory.

Domaine du Carla - Discover the history of 6 decades of the Pierre Fabre Group

For the first time, the general public will have the opportunity to visit the most discreet of the Pierre Fabre group's sites: built in 1875, the Domaine du Carla is a property located in a 90-hectare park, which used to house the founder's office. This elegant building is now a hotel reception area that embodies the company's values: closeness to nature, authenticity of exchanges and a sense of beauty. It is also the showcase for all the Group's brands and products.

Guided tours and free animations will be planned on a circuit of about 2 hours, on compulsory registration on the site European Heritage Days 2022

The Botanical Conservatory of Cambounet-sur-le-Sor - Understand the botanical expertise of the Pierre Fabre group, as well as its actions to protect biodiversity

A few kilometers from Castres, there is a 19th century mansion surrounded by a park of 6 hectares, four of which are formal gardens. It is here that the Botanical Conservatory of Bosc dal Mas was built in 2001, at the request of Pierre Fabre himself. A unique and meaningful concept, the Conservatory is entirely dedicated to research, protection and conservation: more than 900 plant species, including 285 protected species, are currently housed there.

Research into natural substances of therapeutic or dermo-cosmetic interest has always been a major research focus at Pierre Fabre. 62 % of revenues are linked to products with active ingredients derived from nature. More than 240 plants are used in the group's products.

Nature is a fabulous field of exploration and it is there that the Group's researchers will find the medicines and treatments of tomorrow.

Aware of its dependence on biodiversity, Green Mission Pierre Fabre is doing everything possible to preserve nature, protect endangered species, discover plant engineering and pass on its passion for plants to the younger generations.

Workshops will be organized for adults and children, with the possibility of discovering the collections of rare, medicinal or cosmetic plants.

Duration of the free visit: about 2 hours. Registration required on the European Heritage Days 2022 website

L'Usine de Soual Pierre Fabre - Discover the production activities of dermo-cosmetic care

The first factory of the Pierre Fabre group built in 1969, this factory of more than 33000m2 is at the cutting edge of technology, powered at 80% by renewable energy. For 40 years, the Soual site has been manufacturing and packaging Pierre Fabre dermo-cosmetic products (Avène Thermal Water, Ducray, A-Derma, Klorane, René Furterer...). This agile, flexible and competitive site, which has 31 automatic production and packaging lines, achieves an annual production of 140 million units, i.e. approximately 700,000 units per day.

Duration of the free visit: about 2 hours. Registration required on the European Heritage Days 2022 website

BASF: Innovation partnership with Chinese start-up Ingredi

BASF and Ingredi, a Chinese supplier of natural active ingredients and solutions for the personal care industry, announce the signing of a partnership which includes a strategic shareholding by BASF in Ingredi.

While traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) offerings are familiar to many consumers, the use of TCM-derived botanical actives is a new and growing trend in the body care sector.

Founded in 2017, Ingredi specializes in identifying new active ingredients for personal care products, derived from natural plants from the Himalayan region in China. BASF brings its expertise to help the successful use of these ingredients in personal care formulations. BASF will market these products to customers worldwide.

Ingredi has a proven track record and a solid reputation among local and international personal care formulators for introducing new active ingredients based on this tradition. Backed by a solid R&D platform and its own testing facilities (in vitro and in vivo), Ingredi has rapidly expanded its activities. BASF's shareholding now enables Ingredi to further expand its production.

In addition, BASF will work with Ingredi to develop new solutions and market them to the global personal care market.

It is a great honor for us to be appreciated by BASF as a valuable partner for the industry." said Dr Ji Zhou, President and Founder of Ingredi, China. " The partnership with BASF will enable us to benefit from BASF's knowledge of the industry and the know-how of each of our partners." .

We strive to bring new, innovative solutions to the personal care market, and to create a network of partners capable of helping our customers." said Dr Robert Parker, Director of New Business Development and Head of Digital, Care Chemicals at BASF. " We are proud to work with Ingredi and develop our business for mutual benefit." .

The partnership between BASF and Ingredi is just one recent example of how BASF's Care Chemicals division is meeting the challenges of the future. Sustainability, digitization, innovation and new approaches to collaboration are the main pillars of Care 360° - Solutions for Sustainable Life.

Cosmogen has designed the packaging with applicator for the StriVectin Neck Lift Serum Roller

StriVectin has chosen Cosmogen's Squeeze'n Roll tube with applicator for its neck care. Its On/Off system allows the formula to be dispensed (On), then applied, massaged in and redefined thanks to its cool-effect metal tip. The applicator is washable in soapy water.

Cosmogen's Squeeze'n line is available in recycled, recyclable material, as well as with a removable tip to be reused, then sorted and recycled at the end of life.

Lipoid Kosmetik achieves highest EcoVadis score to date and achieves Platinum status again in 2022

Environmental, social and ethical performance, summed up in the term sustainability, is an essential factor in smart business today and has been a core value of Lipoid Kosmetik's corporate philosophy for many years.
We are delighted to announce that we have achieved our highest EcoVadis sustainability rating to date, and have again been awarded Platinum status in 2022. For many years, Lipoid Kosmetik and EcoVadis have shared a close partnership, in which we are recognized for our outstanding performance on all aspects of corporate social responsibility. Despite considerable growth in the number of companies assessed, we were consistently ranked among the top 1 % since 2016. This emphasizes our ongoing efforts to improve our sustainability business practices.
EcoVadis is an independent organization that provides sustainability ratings to companies in global supply chains. It helps companies assess and improve their CSR efforts with regard to environmental, social, economic and stakeholder relations impacts. Over 90,000 companies in various countries and sectors work with EcoVadis and, using universal scorecards, benchmarks and performance improvement tools, a trustworthy sustainability label has been implemented.
The third EcoVadis Platinum medal in a row demonstrates our ongoing commitment to improving our CSR processes and documentation, and proves to our customers that at Lipoid Kosmetik, we don't just talk sustainability, we live it.

Eastman joins the Pact collective

Eastman supports the non-profit beauty industry association in its efforts to advance the circularity of beauty packaging.

Today, Eastman announced its membership of the non-profit organization Pact Collective. Pact is comprised of beauty industry stakeholders focused on improving the end-of-life of beauty packaging and developing solutions that promote circularity for the industry. Eastman and Pact will work together to harness Eastman's molecular recycling technologies to recycle beauty packaging that cannot be mechanically recycled and would otherwise end up in landfill or incinerated.


 " We are delighted to join Pact Collective. We share their goal of ending packaging waste in the beauty industry, and are excited to explore opportunities to leverage our molecular recycling technologies to increase beauty product recycling," said Tara Cary, Cosmetics Packaging Segment Manager at Eastman. Recycling challenges for the beauty industry are complex. Eastman is committed to working with the industry to find solutions for a more sustainable future. Pact Collective is positioned to bring value chain participants together to achieve concrete results.
Pact Collective offers both an in-store collection program and a mail-back program for hard-to-recycle beauty packaging. Pact saw Eastman as a valuable partner because of its innovative molecular recycling technologies, which offer the possibility of recycling materials that the industry can reuse in packaging.
Pact identifies the best possible use for the materials we collect - always starting with mechanical recycling where possible. What we like about Eastman's technology is that it's true material-to-material recycling, not waste-to-energy recycling." said Mia Davis, co-founder of Pact. " Eastman can help us keep plastic in circulation, creating more recycled content that can be used in future packaging for beauty products and other items.
Eastman is a pioneer in molecular recycling - innovative technologies that source hard-to-recycle plastic waste rather than fossil-based raw materials to create high-performance materials. These technologies divert plastic waste from landfill, giving it new life and reducing greenhouse gas emissions compared with traditional production.
Over the past 18 months, Eastman has launched two sustainable material portfolios for cosmetic packaging using its molecular recycling technologies - Eastman Cristal Renew resins with high levels of certified recycled content and Eastman Cristal One Renew resins that offer brands recycled content as well as recyclability in the municipal recycling stream. As an important next step in building the circular economy, Eastman is exploring strategic take-back programs in many of the markets it serves to create "small closed loops" such as recycled beauty packaging.

Clarins Lip Comfort Oil, a must-have revealed by Texen

Clarins presents a new version of its iconic Lip Comfort Oil range, launched in a round pack and featuring eight tinted natural oils promising color, glossy shine and care in line with the Hybrid Make Up trend. Texen continues its long-standing collaboration with the brand, this time in the make-up segment.

For this launch, Clarins wanted to combine the new pack design with the technicality required for the application of a colored skincare oil. In addition, it chose Texen's European 100 % production. The company distinguished itself on these points, and met the challenge of an extremely tight time-to-market.

Design and precision

For this project, Texen took charge of production and assembly of the parts: the engraved and gold-metallized cap and collar, the brush holder and wringer, and the bottle, which features a thick, premium base and guarantees protection of the formula through a specific treatment. Its development required particular care, especially for the wringer. This involved adapting to the ergonomics of the applicator chosen by the brand, and perfecting a wringer that deposits just the right drop of oil for "optimal application and a voluptuous gesture". This project owes its success to the collaboration between the marketing and development teams at Clarins and Texen, including application tests and real-time adjustment of the wringer.

Set design by the millimetre

The brand's decoration is engraved in the mold on the collar and on the top of the cap, with perfect indexing of the motifs and latrines between the two parts, ensuring good brand visibility. Available in eight standard shades, Lip Comfort Oil is also available in a bespoke Lipgloss Factory concept. This allows consumers to create their own shade and order it online. The Lip Comfort Oil range, on the borderline between skincare and make-up, doesn't seem to have said its last word.

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