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Berkem Group - 1st half 2022 revenues up +11.6 1Q6 to €28.1m

  • Continued growth in sales of +11.6 % at SI 2022, driven by the good performance of the Formulation cluster (+12.7 %)
  • Price increases starting in May 2022 to gradually cover inflation in raw materials

Berkem Group, a leading player in plant-based chemistry (ISIN code: FR00140069V2 - mnemonic: ALKEM) announces its sales for the first half of 2022.

Olivier FAHY, Chairman and CEO of the Berkem Group states: " The Berkem Group recorded solid growth in its sales during the first half of the year, illustrating the real appetite of manufacturers for our biosourced solutions, which has been further accentuated by the current high volatility of the oil market. In addition, faced with the rise in the price of certain raw materials, we were able to take action very early on to gradually offset their effects on our margins. This half-year was also an opportunity to formalize our collaboration with the Soprema group, which is seeking to develop a natural solution to increase the performance and resistance of its insulation panels to microorganisms. This partnership demonstrates the expertise acquired by our R&D teams and we hope to conclude new agreements of this type with industrialists in demand for naturalness. Thus, we are perfectly positioned to pursue healthy and profitable growth over the long term and to achieve the objectives set out at the time of our initial public offering. "


H1 2022 revenues at €28.1m, up +11.6 1Q6
At June 30, 2022, the Group's consolidated revenues were up 11.6 1TP6Q compared to the first half of 2021, at €28.1 million.
The Vegetal Extraction expertise pole contributed 29 % to this performance, or €8.1M. After a 1st quarter with very strong activity (+35.7 % vs. Q1 2021), the Vegetal Extraction expertise pole recorded a more moderate turnover in the 2nd quarter, due in particular to a slowdown in the "nutritional supplement" activity as well as a slight drop in Eurolyo's activity in the second quarter. At the end of the first half of 2022, the plant extraction division nevertheless showed growth of 8.9 1TP6Q, compared with the first half of 2021. Revenues of the Formulation expertise pole amounted to €19.9M, representing 71 % of the Group's total activity. This performance is mainly due to volume increases, with price increases only taking place from May 2022. The Formulation division posted sustained growth in sales in Q2 (+19 % compared to Q2 2021) and showed an increase of 12.9 % compared to H1 2021. The Lixol subsidiary alone recorded an increase in revenues of over 20.6 % in the first half of this year. The increase in activity in this segment partially compensated for the increase in raw material prices. The price increases, effective since May, June and July, should make it possible to gradually recover normal gross margins.

All aboard! Getting consumer care manufacturing back on track

The view of Anne Wagner, PhD, Technology and Market Development Manager for Charles River's Microbial Solutions division.

Environmental monitoring provides the tools necessary to effectively address contamination risks. 

The manufacturing of consumer care products is complex and requires the highest level of efficiency and productivity. The process is constantly threatened by unseen invaders: microorganisms. Imagine this scenario. Before a shampoo is released to the market, microbial limits are tested and you discover out-of-specification (OOS) microbial growth on your plates.

What should you do next?

You can imagine your manufacturing facility as a railway system (see illustration). SKU shampoo is produced on the red rail line. Your finished product is complete at stop D.

The first step is to determine which microorganism contaminated your product. You probably performed a Gram stain and then identified the microbial isolate recovered to the species level. You identify the microbe as Pluralibacter gergoviae. This organism is classified as an opportunistic Gram-negative, preservative-resistant pathogen that is ubiquitous in nature. Without a baseline of your environment, each contamination event puts you at square one in identifying the root cause. This microbial contaminant can come from anywhere.

Let's go back to our train analogy. We can see that the contamination occurred on the red line. Think of it as a skid. If you only clean the manufacturing tank, the corrective action may not be enough to fix the problem because there are many other sources of contamination. In addition, the red line route is connected to all other rail lines, directly or indirectly, which means that the risk points for contamination in a final product are expansive. New trains arrive every few minutes and you could see recontamination occur again on the red line if you cannot confirm the original source of the introduction of pathogenic bacteria into the environment.

Was it contaminated raw material, improperly worn PPE or problems with the water purification system? Did construction work or moving vehicles create dust? You need to test all these environmental sources to find the origin of the microorganism. In this example, you determine that the microbial source is at stop J on the pink line. The microbial source could be a leaking pipe, a water purification filter failure, or even an air conditioning problem. No amount of tank cleaning will solve this problem. If the source is a raw material shared between different manufacturing sites, you can potentially have microbial contamination in multiple facilities. The scope of the contamination may be even greater than expected.

Biocontamination tests to the rescue

But hope is not lost! You can regain control of your manufacturing environment through environmental monitoring (EM). EM is a risk assessment control strategy that involves testing for bioburden in your manufacturing environment under the direction of your QC micro-lab. This strategy should be considered for all equipment, personnel, materials, procedures, processes and facilities. Here's how the process works. Locations and materials are sampled and plated on culture media to look for the growth of microorganisms. Colonies of microorganisms are counted, recorded, and the organisms identified. For each location and material, alert and action levels are created from the established baseline amount of manufacturing microbiota. If the number of microorganisms reaches the alert level, it indicates a potential drift from normal operating conditions. If the action level is reached, this indicates a significant drift from normal operating conditions and an investigation should be conducted to understand the reason for this change.

The benefits of environmental monitoring are clear

EM provides you with the tools to quickly assess, mitigate risk and resolve contamination events efficiently and accurately. With action and alert limits in place, even if your manufacturing facility is complex and fast-moving, you can potentially discover contamination before it reaches your final product, protecting customers and saving time and money.

Without the use of EM, the risk of a contamination event is higher. Microbial contamination of a batch cannot be remedied or reversed once it has occurred, and the product must be destroyed. Then the entire train of equipment is shut down, including the batch skid, storage tanks and filling line. You've lost production capacity, revenue and time. You have increased costs and the risk of recall. If the product has been released to the market, these events are often brought to the attention of consumers through publicly announced recalls by regulatory agencies. Product recalls not only pose a risk to consumers, but result in additional costs and lost revenue, create a negative regulatory status and a loss of consumer confidence in the brand.

The goal of a consumer products company is to produce a product that the consumer wants. The product must have all the characteristics of a consumer product - effective, pleasing to the eye and, most importantly, safe for the user. Products must be free of harmful microorganisms that can cause illness or negatively impact the product. Environmental monitoring provides a baseline profile of microorganisms in the manufacturing environment. Implement environmental monitoring with accurate microbial identifications to track microorganisms and trends and manage risks to help your manufacturing site make proactive decisions. The value of environmental monitoring depends on the quality, accuracy and reproducibility of these identifications. Tracking and trending your manufacturing microflora helps you identify areas at risk for contamination and demonstrates that procedures implemented to prevent contamination are effective.

Albéa publishes its 4th sustainable development report

Albéa is actively pursuing its 2020-2025 CSR program which places the circular economy at the heart of its strategy. Today, the company publishes its 4th annual and voluntary sustainable development report.

The 2020 report was intended to share the progress made in an unprecedented year. Albéa's 2021 report focuses on reinventing a transparent and virtuous value chain that meets the challenges of tomorrow's industry. It highlights a joint effort by all external stakeholders and employees worldwide to promote circularity in cosmetic packaging.

François Luscan, Chairman and CEO, says: " In this transition to circularity, transparency and solidarity are more essential than ever. We want to build a stronger, more cohesive industry and rethink packaging together - while addressing the biggest challenge of our time: climate change. This fourth report shows how our teams, customers, suppliers and all stakeholders are joining forces and presents the progress we are making in 2021. This report is also a tribute to all stakeholders and an incentive to continue our efforts. "

Expanscience appoints Sophie Robert-Velut as General Manager for Dermo-Cosmetics, Rheumatology and
Dermatology

EXPANSCIENCE- Management - Market Information

As General Manager of Dermo-Cosmetics, Rheumatology and Dermatology activities, Sophie Robert-Velut's mission is to define the development strategy for Rheumatology and Dermatology and more generally to imagine Expanscience's health offer for the future. She retains her current responsibilities for defining and implementing the strategy of Expanscience's Dermo-Cosmetics activity for the Mustela and Babo Botanicals brands on a worldwide scale.
A graduate of ESCP Europe, Sophie Robert-Velut, 43, has built her career within the L'Oréal group. Since her arrival at Expanscience, Sophie Robert-Velut has successfully led the transformation of the Dermo-Cosmetics business and in particular the ¡conical Mustela brand. The latter accompanies families in respecting the CSR commitments of Expanscience, a B Corp certified company and a company with a mission since 2021.

EXPANSCIENCE2- Management - Market Information

Within the framework of this organization, Konstand Katsianakos, 46 years old, Director of International Subsidiaries of Expanscience, has been appointed General Manager of Markets since May 30, 2022.
Reporting to Sophie Robert-Velut, he is in charge of coordinating the activity of all markets where Expanscience is present via 14 subsidiaries and distributors in more than 100 export countries.
" The appointments of Sophie Robert-Velut and Konstand Katsianakos reinforce the transformation of our Dermo-Cosmetics, Rheumatology and Dermatology activities and support our development in France and internationally. "comments Jean-Paul Berthomé, President of Laboratoires Expanscience.

onTop cosmetics is the first Chinese beauty brand to launch sustainable cosmetic packaging made with Eastman Cristal Renew copolyester.

onTop cosmetics is first Chinese beauty brand to launch sustainable cosmetic packaging made with Eastman Cristal™ Renew copolyester. In collaboration with Eastman and WWP Beauty, onTop brings its innovative Renewal Oil Cream with molecular-recycled packaging to Chinese consumers.

In collaboration with Eastman and WWP Beauty, onTop is offering its innovative Renewal oil cream with molecularly recycled packaging to Chinese consumers.

onTop cosmetics has launched its Renewal Oil Cream, the first of its four major face cream products to feature packaging made from Eastman Cristal Renew copolyester with 50 % of certified recycled content.* onTop cosmetics is the first Chinese beauty brand to use Cristal Renew, a sustainable resin from Eastman's molecular recycling technologies. This industry-leading skincare packaging is the result of close collaboration between onTop's value chain partners - WWP Beauty and molecular recycling pioneer Eastman.

onTop cosmetics is the first Chinese beauty brand to launch sustainable cosmetic packaging made with Eastman Cristal Renew copolyester. In collaboration with Eastman and WWP Beauty, onTop is offering its innovative Renewal oily cream with molecularly recycled packaging to Chinese consumers.

onTop cosmetics is the first Chinese beauty brand to launch sustainable cosmetic packaging made with Eastman Cristal™ Renew copolyester. In collaboration with Eastman and WWP Beauty, onTop is bringing its innovative Renewal Oil Cream to Chinese consumers with molecularly recycled packaging.

onTop strives to create lightweight packaging, which is part of the attitude towards sustainability " said Emma Ni, CEO of onTop. "We actively seek lightweight, beautiful and eco-friendly solutions for formulas and packaging. Based on this mission, we chose to make a sustainable package out of Eastman Cristal Renew for our newly launched cream. Our efforts, however small, are aimed at reducing consumption and environmental impact and ultimately making the earth 'lighter'."

onTop worked with WWP Beauty to develop the primary packaging for version 2.0 of its Renewal Oil Cream, recognized by Mintel as an "innovative product" in January 2022. Mintel cites the product's oil-cream texture, which allows for the addition of lipids like ceramide 2, phytosterols and fatty acids to nourish the skin. The formulation also uses Topnatrol, a patented emulsifying technology based on natural active ingredients rather than synthetic emulsifiers. 

For onTop Renewal Oil Cream, WWP Beauty saw an opportunity to design a package that was as innovative as the product inside. The company was looking for a sustainable package that would take its skincare product to the next level. Eastman's Cristal Renew, made with a molecular recycling technology that uses plastic waste as a raw material instead of fossil resources, met their expectations. These technologies break down plastic waste into its fundamental building blocks and use them to create new, high-performance materials. As a result, Cristal Renew offers brands the same level of performance and design freedom they have come to expect from Eastman resins for luxury cosmetics packaging. It also offers significant environmental benefits, including landfill detour and reduced greenhouse gas emissions.

For WWP Beauty, the collaboration with Eastman and onTop provides a platform to show how the brand can help its customers leverage the latest material innovations to improve the sustainability of its products.

Working with customers to create a space where we can bring sustainable and innovative beauty products to customers globally is at the heart of what we do " said Jennifer Adams, WWP CEO. " This collaboration with onTop and Eastman is a milestone for WWP Beauty in our efforts to advance sustainability in the beauty industry. "

The recycled content of Eastman Renew products is certified by the International Sustainability & Carbon Certification (ISCC Plus), giving brands the transparency and reliability of independent third-party verification of recycled content claims.

We are excited to be involved in the launch of this product with onTop and WWP Beauty and to see how Cristal Renew improves the sustainability of such an innovative product " said Tara Cary, Eastman's market manager for cosmetics and personal care packaging. " By introducing its Renewal oil cream to the market, onTop is leading the industry in sustainability for Chinese consumers. "

*Recycled content is obtained by allocating recycled plastic waste to Cristal Renew using an ISCC certified mass balance process.

L'Oréal unveiled the future of tech-enhanced beauty at Viva Technology 2022

The L'Oréal Group unveiled its vision for the future of beauty at Viva Technology (VivaTech) 2022, Europe's largest event dedicated to the technology industry, held June 15-18 in Paris.

With a strong focus on web3 and online, offline and on-chain beauty experiences, the cosmetics industry leader guided visitors through an exploration of beauty in the web3 and metaverse era. At the same time, innovations to be experimented at home, in a boutique or in a salon were also presented. L'Oréal participated in the sixth edition of VivaTech with a 325 sqm state-of-the-art booth where the group presented immersive beauty experiences developed by the main brands of its portfolio of luxury, consumer, professional and active cosmetic products.

" We are thrilled to be back at VivaTech, where L'Oréal has played a major role since the event's inception in 2016. We've always been at the forefront of beauty technology innovation, and now it's up to us to explore emerging technologies and avenues for engaging a new generation of beauty consumers ", said Nicolas Hieronimus, CEO of L'Oréal. " L'Oréal's raison d'être, which is to create beauty that moves the world forward, establishes technology as the catalyst for transforming our entire business. "

L'Oréal continues to shape the future of beauty by leveraging more than a century of industry expertise to create unique multi-sensory beauty experiences. Pioneering advances in skin diagnosis, teleconsultation and virtual trials enabled by the web2, L'Oréal is now exploring the possibilities offered by the web3 for beauty experiences for a new generation of consumers. On-chain beauty represents an opportunity to bring together consumers and creators on emerging platforms to participate in a new beauty economy.

" At L'Oréal, we have a deep conviction: the intersection of the powerful forces of science and technology will enable us to invent the beauty of the future The company is a leader in the development of new products and services," said Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice President of Research, Innovation and Technology at L'Oréal. " By combining both our century-old scientific knowledge and data expertise with physical and digital technological innovations, we reinvent and augment beauty experiences to meet the desires, dreams and aspirations of our consumers worldwide. "

" The beauty of the future will be physical, digital and virtual. That's why, while keeping our feet firmly planted in the acceleration of web2, we are exploring web3 with a new approach to on-chain beauty ", explained Asmita Dubey, general manager digital and marketing at L'Oréal. " We have prioritized digital in all our efforts and our goal is to enrich the consumer journey, which continues to evolve from O+O (offline + online) to O+O+O (online + offline + on-chain). "

Golgemma present at Biofach Vivaness

Golgemma offers today more than 300 materials such as macerates, hydrolats, natural extracts, most of which are certified Ecocert organic cosmetics, Nop, Cosmos and attested by "Fair For Life" and or "For Life".

Present at Biofach 2022 on booth 8-327 in Hall 8 until July 29, 2022 in Nuremberg (Germany), the brand offers visitors to discover some new products:

- Hydrolat of damascena rose on geogard - hyda0016
Origin: Bulgaria, Morocco
Descriptor : rose
Rose damascena is one of the best known ingredients in perfumery and cosmetics, prized for the sensual quality and sweetness it brings to a composition. The main rose producing countries are Turkey, Bulgaria and Morocco. The bushes bloom once a year, from May to June. Our range of rose hydrolats is based on the sourcing and traceability of high quality raw materials from their farms in Bulgaria and Morocco, where it has its own rose fields and production units. This dual local presence allows them to harvest the flowers by hand and to distill and extract them within 24 hours of picking, in order to guarantee the best quality.

- Hydrolat of damascena rose on leucidal - hyda0035
Origin : Bulgaria, Morocco
Describer : Rose
Leucidal is a multifunctional antimicrobial ferment of stabilizing products of natural origin. Its Leucidal hydrolats are certified organic at 97,0% by Ecocert Greenlife according to the Cosmos standard. Golgemma uses Leucidal in the preparation of its hydrolats because its use gives it the opportunity to offer a range of preservative-free hydrolats with the same minimum durability date as the preserved hydrolats, i.e. 2 years. It is therefore a particularly relevant alternative to the synthetic preservatives used in cosmetics, for its customers who are looking for floral waters of 100% natural origin.

- Hydrolat of rose centifolia on leucidal - hyda0044
Origin : Morocco
Descriptors : Rose Note, Powder, Fruit
Native to the Caucasus and Iran, the Rose centifolia appeared at the end of the 16th century following a mutation of Rosa gallica. It then spread to France, in the Grasse region, where it was cultivated for its exceptional essence. Along with Rosa damascena, it is one of only two botanical varieties of roses grown for the perfume industry. Although the Centifolia Rose is an emblematic raw material of the Grasse region, for which it has acquired a reputation.

TechnicoFlor launches FlorIndex, a unique ecodesign tool for perfume formulas

TechnicoFlor, a French, family-owned and independent perfume composition house specialized in the creation of perfumes for the biggest names in perfumery, cosmetics and hygiene, launches FlorIndex, a tool for the eco-design of perfume formulas, a real innovation in the profession.

Created by TechnicoFlor's teams, accompanied by ecodesign experts, FlorIndex aims to evaluate the impact of the formulas created by the group's perfumers, mainly on the environment, but also on the societal level and the
health. It is the only tool that is able to measure the environmental impact at almost every stage of the fragrance development cycle: from the sourcing of raw materials to the end of the fragrance's life, including formulation, production and transportation. " By choosing 38 indicators to evaluate 9 criteria, themselves divided into 3 main stages, we have built the most complete tool to date "explains Maxime Gransart, deputy general manager of TechnicoFlor.

The criteria used include the weight of responsible raw materials, CMRs and endoctrinian disruptors, the weight of the solvent, the energy required for production and the impact of transport. But also the biodegradability of a formula or the measurement of its toxicity on the environment and health. The other great strength of FlorIndex lies in the fact that this tool is scalable: it can easily adapt to regulatory changes and integrate future new criteria.

" Today's consumers have different requirements: if they don't want to compromise on efficiency, sensoriality or creativity, they are now looking for products that are healthier, greener and more natural. For them of course, but also for
also for the environment. This is why they ask for more transparency on the composition of the products they use, whether in cosmetology or perfumery
"says Maxime Gransart. TechnicoFlor has developed FlorIndex to meet this double requirement - more responsible consumption and transparency.

The result? A complete tool in the form of an ecoscore, giving the perfume a grade from A to E. The final score and that of the different stages of its development cycle are visualized so that the consumer has all the necessary data for his
understanding. And that's not all: " with the aim of constant improvement, perfumers also have access to the possible points on which they can make progress in order to move towards an ever more responsible creation "concludes François Patrick Sabater, president of TechnicoFlor.

Hebelys wins Ringier Technology Innovation Award

Hebelys, a biotechnological active ingredient developed by Greentech, received a Ringier Technology lnnovation Award, one of the most prestigious prizes in the Chinese cosmetics active ingredients market.

The Ringier Awards recognize innovative and promising active ingredients for the Chinese market. They are assessed by a jury on 4 criteria: efficacy/scientific data, safety, cost-effectiveness and sustainability.

This award for Hebelys is a positive signal for French biotechs, and attests to the value of a holistic approach to skin care. Hebelys is an active ingredient derived from advanced biotechnologies, designed according to a systemic approach, specifically to meet the cutaneous and emotional needs of women of the silver generation, or to accompany women towards positive ageing from their fifties onwards, like the guardian of their golden years.

Origin

Ferment of Sphingomonas sp. a golden extremophile microorganism capable of surviving in stressful environments thanks to its high metabolic plasticity, obtained by optimized fermentation (metabolic orientation).

Mechanisms of action

Hebelys targets the mechanisms that accelerate skin ageing: oxidative stress and cellular senescence pathways (p21/p16) leading to the appearance of "zombie" cells. It limits SASP (senescence-associated secretory phenotype), notably the secretion of pro-inflammatory factors, thus helping to limit the deleterious effects of "zombie" cells. What's more, Hebelys has a rejuvenating effect on the dermal matrisome, creating an environment with a rejuvenating effect on cells.

Benefits: sublimates skin and emotions

Hebelys offers a holistic approach to mature skin care, acting on both :

- 4 physical impacts of aging on the skin: smoothes wrinkles, brightens and evens skin tone, improves texture and tones skin;

- 2 cognitive impacts: boosts self-esteem and positive emotions.

Shiseido, Sekisui Chemical and Sumitomo Chemical collaborate to establish a circular economy for plastic cosmetic containers

Shiseido Company, Limited (Shiseido), Sekisui Chemical Co, Ltd (Sekisui Chemical) and Sumitomo Chemical Co, Ltd (Sumitomo Chemical) are to launch a joint initiative to establish a circular economy for plastic cosmetic containers, in which used plastic cosmetic containers are collected, converted into resources and materials without sorting, and recycled into plastic cosmetic containers.

Cosmetics containers are made from a wide variety of plastics, as emphasis is placed on content protection, ease of use and design. As a result, it's difficult to sort cosmetics containers for recycling, making it a major challenge to recycle them into plastic resources. To solve this problem, Shiseido, Sekisui Chemical and Sumitomo Chemical have agreed to collaborate in setting up a new system for collecting used plastic cosmetic containers and recycling them into new cosmetic containers, drawing on their respective expertise.

Shiseido will implement a new collection system for plastic cosmetic containers in retail stores, and use recycled polyolefin (1) for its cosmetic containers. Sekisui Chemical will use BR ethanol (2) technology to convert used plastics into ethanol, a raw material for plastics, by turning combustible waste into gas without sorting it, and converting the gas into ethanol using microbes. At the same time, Sumitomo Chemical will manufacture ethylene (3) from this ethanol using renewable ethanol-to-ethylene technology, and produce polyolefin products from the ethylene of equivalent quality to conventional polyolefins using fossil resources.

The three companies will drive this cross-sector alliance forward, while calling on related industries and businesses to join the effort, and strive to create a circular economy.

(1) Polyolefin: Generic term for certain types of plastic (synthetic resins), such as polyethylene and polypropylene.

(2) BR ethanol technology: A technology that gasifies combustible waste accumulated in unsorted waste disposal facilities and converts the gas into ethanol using microbes without the application of heat or pressure. BR stands for biorefinery.

(3) Ethylene: A raw material for synthetic resins such as polyethylene and for organic compounds.

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