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Supporting biotic rejuvenation: BASF Care Creations launches skin care ingredients based on a bacterium found in young skin.

Probiolift: the first cosmetic ingredient containing a live probiotic helps give skin a fuller appearance and improve the appearance of forehead wrinkles.

Postbiolift: Postbiotic makes the skin more elastic, smoothes the appearance of crow's feet wrinkles and gives the impression of an even skin tone.

The cosmetic ingredients exploit the Lactobacillus crispatus bacteria which are abundant in young skin and considerably diminished in older skin

With Probiolift and Postbiolift, Care Creations from BASF introduces two new biotic ingredients that promote healthy and harmonious aging of the skin. Unlike other biotics on the cosmetic market, the newly developed ingredients are the first to use a bacterium naturally found in the skin: Lactobacillus crispatus (L crispatus), an anaerobic Gram-positive rod bacterium that has been shown to decrease with age.

Consumers are increasingly aware of the health benefits of biotic ingredients, whether they are pre-, pro- or post-biotic. This trend has its roots in the food industry" Cécile Kalem, BASF's head of active ingredients launch in Europe, said. " What is common practice in this field has, until now, been one of the most difficult tasks for the personal care industry: incorporating live skin bacteria into cosmetic formulations and keeping them active. With Probiolift, we have found a solution to this challenge - a true breakthrough from our research and development teams.

New insights into changes in the facial microbiome during aging

Complementing existing research that indicates that the diversity of the skin microbiota changes with age, BASF conducted a new study on the difference in facial microbiome composition between young and old people. The research team found that lactic acid bacteria, including Lactobacilli, significantly decrease in mature skin. The species L. crispatus, in particular, decreased in the subocular area and was not detectable in the wrinkle troughs of older volunteers. This finding led BASF researchers to speculate that L. crispatus, isolated from human skin, could be the key to younger-looking skin. BASF has developed two cosmetic ingredients from the same biofermentation process: Probiolift, the probiotic with dormant cells of living L. crispatus, and Postbiolift, the fermentation supernatant containing the metabolites secreted by L. crispatus.

Probiolift™ for fuller skin with a reduction in the appearance of wrinkles.

Probiolift is composed of live but dormant L. crispatus bacteria that awaken on contact with water on the skin. The ingredient thus unlocks a previously largely untapped potential in the biotic beauty sector. It promotes harmonious skin aging by giving the skin a fuller appearance and improving the appearance of forehead wrinkles.

Twenty-nine female volunteers between the ages of 45 and 65, who had wrinkles or fine lines on the forehead, participated in the clinical study. The efficacy of a base cream containing Probiolift at 0.05 % was evaluated in comparison to a placebo base cream. The Probiolift allowed the volunteers' skin to appear fuller after two months. Although the appearance of forehead wrinkles is more difficult to reduce than crow's feet, the new probiotic offered a visible correction in this area as well, allowing for a 5 % reduction in the appearance of wrinkles compared to placebo. The clinical results were supported by the biological properties of L crispatus demonstrated in advanced in vitro testing.

Postbiolift for a more elastic, smooth and uniform skin appearance

Postbiolift is a unique new postbiotic ingredient containing beneficial metabolites secreted by L. crispatus. It helps improve the mechanical properties of the skin to make it more elastic, smooth the appearance of wrinkles around the eyes and create an even skin tone.

The efficacy of Postbiolift was demonstrated in a placebo-controlled clinical study on 30 female volunteers aged 40-50 years with crow's feet wrinkles and color spots on the face. After 28 days and 56 days of treatment with the ingredient formulated at 1 % in a cream, elastic parameters were evaluated. The results were significant compared to placebo, with an improvement of up to 10 percent.

In addition, at the end of the 56-day study, Postbiolift had significantly reduced the appearance of crow's feet and pigmented age spots in these middle-aged women by nearly 7 % compared to placebo. The mechanism behind the observed clinical results was demonstrated in comprehensive in vitro studies.

Together, these two new ingredients allow cosmetic manufacturers to meet the growing demand for clinically proven, youthful skin biotics.

Global Beauty Consulting launches its prototyping offer

GBC is expanding its service offering. Already offering several levels of support, the laboratory is taking a new turn by creating its GBF division for prototyping.

From formulation to regulation, including GMP implementation and assistance in setting up factories and laboratories, GBC offers a complete service in the cosmetics industry for clients from various horizons: from indie brands to international groups. This expertise has led us to create GBF, Global Beauty Factory, the semi-industrial pilot division of GBC. GBF offers to carry out a formula prototyping from 50 units.

There are two main objectives to this new service:

- The testing of a formula with his entourage, his community to validate all the sensory, organoleptic or even marketing aspects of his project before engaging in regulatory testing and final production in larger quantities; in other words, the possibility of questioning a limited target in order to make certain choices crucial to the success of his project. The assurance for the customer to choose the right formula. One more step towards success!

- The manufacture of a small series under real industrial conditions (manufacture and packaging for non-market purposes) to validate an industrial transposition or to put forward application formulas to suppliers of raw materials, packaging...

The equipment of Global Beauty Factory:

- A pilot room of 50 m2

- A 25 l vacuum mixer

- A semi-automatic bottle filler (with hot pouring)

- A semi-automatic filling machine for plastic tubes

- A labelling and wrapping machine

- An inkjet coder

- A double belt conveyor

GBC, GBF... The strength of an ecosystem

A long-established network allows us to advise on different needs in terms of packaging, screen printing or printing. Thanks to our knowledge of the cosmetics industry, we are now able to meet all its challenges. Small quantities, reduction of production time or complete and personalized follow-up, just like for GBC, GBF is committed to meeting all needs.

GPA Global has created the luxurious boxes of Marie-Stella-Maris

GPA Global has collaborated with Dutch luxury house and perfume brand Marie-Stella-Maris, to design a duo of limited edition boxes for the Festive and Mother's Day lines.

Through its aesthetic design and functional experience, this packaging generates a premium feeling for the user. The end result enhances the product, while being aligned with the environmental and social values of Marie-Stella-Maris.

For these 2 boxes, GPA Global used 3 ranges of the Dutch paper supplier Velpa: Denimised - 50 % of fibers from recycled jeans -, Cocoality - cocoa bean shells finely ground -, Valorise - fibers from tomato plants.

In order to offer a reinforced functionality and user experience, GPA Global has positioned clever fasteners that keep the different products in place, and retained a principle of removable or foldable lids, depending on the content. The use of soft touch adds to this luxurious feel and invites a holistic sensory experience.

For the Mother's Day line - Rock Rose N°10 scented hand and body care and a set of scented sticks - GPA Global opted for a plain white background adorned with polka dots in different blush shades. Inspired by the soft petal pink hues of confetti, the fun and feminine design of the boxes evokes the floral product it contains.

For the Festive No. 12 fragrance line, GPA Global took a bold approach, choosing a soft black laminate background, contrasted with white ink and a shimmering gold design, achieved with gold leaf to echo the golden touch of the products contained in the different boxes: a gold candle, a scented candle and sticks gift set and a scented sticks set.

GPA Global printed the ingredient lists and instructions for use directly on the packaging, as well as the logo and even the "corporate mission" statement that Marie-Stella-Maris carries.

The perfume and cosmetics industry recognized as a "strategic sector" in Paris Region

By deciding to make the cosmetics industry a priority of its "Regional Plan of
economic development, innovation and internationalization 2022-2028" (5RDEII), the
Regional Council of Ile-de-France, was not mistaken. It is betting, in fact, on both
the extraordinary potential for development and attractiveness of the sector, in terms of employment and growth, and the soft power represented by a sector that is emblematic of the French art-de-vivre and European excellence. It is a sign of recognition that was expected by the profession, which immediately welcomed it. After the Centre-Val de Loire, New Aquitaine, Normandy, Guyana, while Hauts-de-France and Martinique could follow the same path, this agreement between the competitiveness cluster and the first economic region of Europe opens the way with other regions to other public-private partnerships all essential to the preservation, by the French cosmetics industry, of its status as world leader. It reinforces Cosmetic Valley in the mission entrusted to it by the Government to federate and bring together in France all the players in this strategic sector for our foreign trade.

With 3,200 companies, including 80% of SMEs, 246,000 direct and indirect jobs, 45 billion
of turnover, the cosmetics industry is an essential player in the economy
of France. It represents a global market of 600 billion euros and benefits from a
annual growth of around 5%, driven mainly by Asia. Strongly exporting, at
all the links of a value chain firmly established on the national territory, which
It is rarely said that it is the source of our country's second largest trade surplus, just behind aeronautics.

Its unique ecosystem only works well because beyond the dream it embodies, based
It is supported by a strong dynamism based on research, innovation and a system of training and higher education of excellence. However, today it is confronted with four major changes: the ecological transition with the challenge of sustainable development, the imperatives of decarbonization, traceability, respect for biodiversity and the promotion of sustainable development. The digital transition with the use of big data, artificial intelligence, online purchasing, connected objects and tutorials; the geopolitical transition marked not only by ever stronger international competition from increasingly ambitious challengers, but also by powerful upheavals that threaten its supplies and logistics organization; the technological transition that is leading companies to approach the 4e industrial revolution, relocation and teleworking. It is this composite dynamic that Île-de-France wanted to support.

What could be more natural? All over the world, in Korea, Japan or China in particular, the cosmetics industries that compete with us for market share are supported by public authorities, often regional, who recognize the enormous potential of the cosmetics industry and the need to support it and set up public/private partnerships in order to make it a reality.

In France, Cosmetic Valley, which became a competitiveness cluster in 2005 and was recognized by the French government as the industry's national coordinator, is responsible for fostering these partnerships between the public and private sectors and among the players in the cosmetics ecosystem. For 28 years, it has successfully carried out this task by supporting collaborative innovation between public and private research, open innovation between large groups and SMEs, internationalization of companies in partnership with Business France, and the co-construction of winning strategies with the regions. The cluster's partner regions have so far included the Centre Val de Loire. New Aquitaine. Normandie, and French Guiana - not to mention the regions of other European Union member states that the cluster has brought together, as part of the European Commission's "Go4 Cosmetics" project, because each has decided to capitalize on the potential of the cosmetics industry, both in terms of investment, innovation and research. In the Ile-de-France region. Cosmetic Valley is already deploying significant actions with the organization, every year in October, in Paris at the Carrousel du Louvre, of the international cosmetic innovation trade show "Cosmetic 360" - to which the Ile-de-France region contributes, since 2021. through Choose Paris Region - and numerous partnerships in the field of higher education and research. The number of conferences, symposiums and seminars hosted by the seven departments of Paris, its inner and outer suburbs, has been countless. What was missing, however, was an ambitious, unifying and structuring strategy for
the leading French cosmetics region, accounting for 70% of its sales. 41% of
The company has a large number of salaried employees, most of its head offices, a significant number of production, logistics and R&D sites, as well as specialized schools of a very high level.

The inclusion of the cosmetics industry as a priority industry in the SRDEII responds to this challenge and
to a well understood mutual interest between the region and the cosmetics sector. Roadmap of
regional action, the SRDEII defines the guidelines for aid to businesses, the
support for internationalization, and aid for real estate investment and innovation for
companies, as well as the orientations relating to the attractiveness of the regional territory. It must
mobilize, under the impetus of the Region, all the economic and institutional players, in order to
to ensure their development and their anchorage in the Ile-de-France region, with four main
objectives: invest in its attractiveness; develop the competitiveness of its economy;
to develop the spirit of enterprise and innovation; to act collectively in the service of companies, employment and territories. For the cosmetics industry, the prospects, like the stakeholders, are numerous and various projects have already been discussed with the Region.

This rapprochement is historic and promising. It is, with the creation in 2021 of the "Cosmetic Industry Committee" initiated by Cosmetic Valley, a turning point in the strategy of intensifying public-private partnerships necessary for the development of the sector.

For Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley:

" You can't keep a world leadership position. It is earned and defended. This requires a strategy, objectives and allies. The partnership with an institutional player of the size and power of the Paris Region, whose skills complement those of the competitiveness cluster, helps us to better understand these issues. The strategy is to move towards the hard sciences, which our products must integrate. The objectives are those of "Made in France", authenticity of ingredients, consumer protection, environmental protection, and innovation performance. Thanks to the region, our allies are public laboratories, universities and international relays. The contribution of the Ile-de-France region, Europe's leading economic region, will be truly essential here. It allows for a change in scale, international visibility, and the conquest of the future. I am delighted with this. We are all ready for this new alliance to become a reality and for French cosmetics to win. ".

New Golgemma website

To launch its new website, Golgemma chose the day of the summer.

On June 21st, Golgemma, producer of certified natural extracts, reveals a new colorful and enriched website.

Discover all the products (hydrolats, essential oils, oily macerates,...) in an online catalog with a powerful search engine.

Find the universe of Golgemma and its expertise in cosmetics, aromatherapy, food supplements, food...

Claude Grison wins the European Inventor of the Year Award

The European Patent Office has just announced its winners: Claude Grison is the winner of the European Inventor Award 2022 in the "Research" category.

At noon on Tuesday June 21, 2022, the European Patent Office unveiled the winners of its European Inventor Awards 2022 at a ceremony broadcast live. And it was CNRS researcher Claude Grison, director of the CNRS Bio-inspired Chemistry and Ecological Innovations Laboratory and winner of the CNRS Medal for Innovation in 2014, who won the public's vote. She was rewarded for the plant-based methods she developed to extract metallic elements from polluted soil and use these "ecocatalysts" to create new molecules for industry. Claude Grison has created four start-ups, including Bio Inspir', which will be exhibiting on the CNRS stand at Vivatech in 2019, and has collaborated with chemical, pharmaceutical and cosmetics companies including Belgarena, Colas, Klorane and Chimex.

Responsible cosmetics: when industry giants lead the way with Cradle to Cradle Certified

YSL Beauté's new hybrid makeup and skincare line "Nu" has just received the Cradle to Cradle Silver certification. This is the first time that a range of beauty products manufactured in France has received this very demanding certification. Calvin Klein CK Everyone eau de parfum, from Coty, follows suit and has just been certified Cradle to Cradle Gold. The circular economy is sweeping through our bathrooms and it is a fundamental trend.

Today, consumers are demanding much more: transparency on the origin of ingredients, respect for harvesters, reduction of environmental impact, a recycling program, eco-designed packaging ... More than an awareness, a real philosophy now advocated by the major brands that are multiplying commitments to develop sustainable products to limit their impact on the environment, from design to manufacture, until their end of life. But how to accelerate the deployment of sustainable products throughout the beauty and cosmetics industry? The Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute takes stock of good practices for the well-being of the skin and the planet.

Objective: circular economy

The way companies design and manufacture products today has a direct impact on the world of tomorrow. The beauty sector is therefore also confronted with environmental challenges to sustain its activities, meet customers' aspirations, and innovate in a context of ethical exemplarity.

The AGEC law, set up to defend a rapid and significant ecological transition, promotes the saving of resources, raw materials, energy, water, the limitation of waste and their reuse. It includes 130 articles, 29 of which are directly related to the "hygiene and beauty" sector, including cosmetics.

The law provides for the disappearance of single-use plastic packaging by 2040 and 100% of recycled plastic packaging by 2025. This requires the cosmetics sector to respect 3 orders: re-use, re-cycle and re-cycle. It also prohibits the destruction of unsold products and requires its management. With these measures, the Federation of Beauty Companies (FEBEA) expects a saving of 8,500 tons of plastic by 2025.

In this context, work on eco-design and reuse of packaging is accelerating, and waste management is improving to promote more responsible consumption. The circular economy appears to be one of the solutions to meet these constraints and reduce the plastic footprint.

Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute: a holistic approach

Different brands are already engaged in circular economy approaches but often they are reduced to the sole issue of waste or to a single attribute of the circular economy, forgetting the essential issues. To anchor an economic model in a sustainable sobriety approach, comprehensive solutions exist such as the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute.

Geno and Unilever are launching a $120 million venture to develop alternatives to palm oil and fossil fuels.

Today, Genomatica (Geno), a leader in biotechnology and sustainability, and Unilever launched a venture to develop and commercialize alternatives to palm oil and cleaning ingredients derived from fossil fuels. These ingredients are integral to the formulations of thousands of everyday cleaning and personal care products. With the growing demand for sustainably sourced palm oil, this initiative aims to bring additional responsibly sourced palm oil alternatives to the market.

With $120 million jointly invested in this newly formed initiative, and other strategic investors expected to join, the company will develop an alternative plant-based ingredient using biotechnology. The innovation is particularly relevant to cleaning and personal care products that require ingredients to foam and remove dirt. Currently, however, there are few viable alternatives to palm and fossil sources that can be produced on a large scale to make these ingredients. Thus, the company offers the opportunity to tap into the combined $625 billion market for cleaning and personal care products. For Unilever, one of the world's largest soap and detergent manufacturers, this is the largest investment to date in palm oil alternative biotechnologies.

Companies like Unilever, whose products are used by 3.4 billion people worldwide every day, are increasingly partnering with biotechnology innovators like Geno to explore, develop and manufacture new versions of traditionally sourced ingredients. While palm oil will remain an important raw material for Unilever, these alternative ingredients can play an increasing role in diversifying supply chains to drive optionality, sustainability, profitability and transparency.

Geno will deploy its proven biotechnology platform and is already beginning to scale up the process of its advanced technology to produce the ingredients. Early estimates have shown that companies could reduce the carbon footprint of palm-derived ingredients by up to 50 % with this technology-based plant-based alternative.

Richard Slater, Unilever's head of R&D, said:

Biotechnology has the potential to revolutionize the supply of our cleaning ingredients and ensure that Unilever is a forward-looking company - for consumers, shareholders and the planet we all share. This new venture will sit at the intersection of science and sustainability, meaning we can continue to grow our business without relying solely on palm oil or fossil fuel derivatives, while making our supply chains more resilient through access to alternative ingredients.

We will marry science and nature to ensure that our consumers don't compromise between product efficacy and sustainability. We are building this innovative new company to have the scale to make a real impact and change in our industry, helping to reinvent the chemistry of household and personal care products for the 21st century."

Christophe Schilling, CEO of Geno, said:

Geno's collaboration with Unilever builds on its strong track record of partnering with market leaders who are committed to accelerating the commercialization of sustainable materials in their industries - from clothing to cleaning ingredients now. We developed our technology in response to our planet's urgent climate crisis and have proven that biotechnology can replace traditional production methods to produce ingredients from organic sources that deliver both high performance and sustainability at scale.

Our technology enables alternative supply routes for materials whose supply chains often have limited social and environmental transparency, providing more resilient supply chains that are transparent, traceable and responsibly sourced as demanded by consumers. Beyond creating new transparent and responsible supply chains and alternative sourced materials, our Geno technology also represents the potential to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 100 million tons in the coming years."

Protection of the hair against olfactory pollution

Today, the term "exposome" is used to describe all the environmental factors that can have an impact on the skin and its appendages. The sun's rays, atmospheric pollution (outdoor and indoor) and cigarette smoke have long been known to dull the complexion, alter skin firmness and accelerate the appearance of wrinkles and pigmentation disorders.

In the case of hair, atmospheric pollution weakens capillary fibers, and the deposition of particles makes hair dull and brittle. But there's another kind of consequence too: olfactory pollution. Hair is notorious for easily absorbing odors, whether good or bad. After all, who hasn't complained about having hair that smells of tobacco, smoke or fried food after spending time in "polluted" environments?

To combat these "bad smells", Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care has developed a new approach to evaluate the "anti-odour" effectiveness of hair care products (shampoos, conditioners, leave-on products or mists). Hair strands are treated before and after prolonged contact with odorant molecules (chosen according to your needs), then our panel of experts assesses the product's odor-neutralizing effect compared to untreated strands.

VPI puts its expertise at the service of the start-up 900.care, for new generation, durable and refillable hygiene products

900.care is one of the most promising beauty and hygiene start-ups of the moment. Created in 2019, it has managed to rally to its cause, via participatory financing, thousands of people aspiring to enjoy quality products while reducing the volume of packaging thrown into bathroom garbage cans. The founders of 900.care met the VPI teams very early in their project: the love affair was mutual, and so was the desire to move forward together. Three years after meeting, VPI and 900.care continue to innovate in favor of a more eco-responsible consumption.

The challenge of revolutionizing the hygiene and beauty sector

The 900.care brand was born in July 2019 around a double observation: the amount of single-use plastic thrown away in a bathroom and the fact that this plastic is mainly used to carry water. Two challenges imposed themselves on the co-founders, Thomas Arnaudo and Aymeric Grange: drastically reduce the use of plastic and offer anhydrous (waterless) formulas to refill. In the fall of the same year, both visited the Luxe Pack Monaco trade show in search of the packaging supplier capable of supporting them in their project. " One thing we knew was that we wanted to create a range of specific, identifiable packaging that could be easily refilled. This meant unique molds for our brand. The VPI team listened to us and very quickly thought along with us. They knew how to bet on us and commit themselves to us "says Thomas Arnaudo, co-founder of 900.care.

Recharging as a key to sustainability

The choice of plastic came very early in the project: " We wanted to produce in France and revalue plastic. Indeed, I am convinced that if we use it well, if we do not systematically throw it away after a single use, if we favour recycled plastic, then plastic can be virtuous. It is reusable, light, strong and recyclable at the end of its life: if we look at the whole value chain, it is the choice that makes the most sense for the ecology "explains Thomas Arnaudo. Hence the choice of the French manufacturer VPI, a specialist in plastic injection.
Several packagings are to be imagined, each with their specific challenges. 900.care worked with designers to select a line of clean, consistent, easily identifiable shapes. Then VPI was called upon for the technical design phase: drawings and molds. A few adjustments later, production was launched.

Latest innovation: a mouthwash in effervescent tablets

After making the shower gel cap, the refillable solid deodorant case and the toothpaste dispenser, VPI has taken on 900.care's latest challenge: its refillable mouthwash tablet packaging. " It's a smart packaging. The tablets are stored in the body of the bottle and the opening cap serves as a measuring cup. The user puts a tablet in the bottle, adds water and obtains a mouthwash. It is an ingenious container that stores, facilitates the use and, moreover, by its design, integrates perfectly in our range "says Thomas Arnaudo.

" As packaging suppliers, we like to accompany our customers in their challenges and ambitions. It's a chance to meet a brand in its early stages, and we enjoyed joining the 900.care adventure from the start. This is what drives us at VPI: to be at the side of brands that want to revolutionize consumer habits by developing innovative and eco-friendly products with them. ", said Marc Beltrami, VPI's sales director.

" We are very happy to work with a company like VPI. It's a company on a human scale, which wants to innovate and change the way things are done. Its teams are very responsive: they knew perfectly how to adapt to our start-up rhythm. We wanted speed and efficiency: we got them. ", said Thomas Arnaudo, co-founder of 900.care.

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