- advertising -
Home Blog Page 13

The cosmetics industry in action with public authorities

Marc-Antoine Jamet and Marc Ferracci Comité de filière January 28, 2025

Organized by the Cosmetic Valley competitiveness cluster and the Fédération des entreprises de la beauté (Febea), the fifth meeting of the Comité de filière cosmétique was held at Bercy on January 28, 2025, under the chairmanship of the French Minister of Industry and Energy, Marc Ferracci. The meeting brought together some thirty industry spokespersons, representing all links in the value chain - suppliers, manufacturers, distributors - and testifying to the sector's complete integration "from plant to product". Participants included young brands, SMEs, ETIs and major groups.

The industry committee underlined the strategic role played by the cosmetics industry in the French economy, and its track record in terms of industrial investment. It also pointed out that Made in France is not only a gas pedal of innovation, but also a powerful force for the creation of skilled jobs in the regions.

At the same time, industry representatives stressed that the sector faces many challenges. Faced with increased global competition and a complex international context, ensuring the competitiveness of a sector in which France is a leader is a priority.

"Our industry is innovative and successful. However, it must face up not only to the major economic and technological challenges faced by its competitors, which justify the full commitment of French companies to the ecological and digital transitions, but also, in an international environment marked by crises and conflicts, to geopolitical and societal tensions, the former reflected in complex regulatory negotiations with the Chinese authorities, and the latter in differences of opinion with the European Union on the classification of ingredients. These difficulties are getting worse. They are not neutral in terms of growth and job creation. At the same time, to remain a leader, we need to change pace and scale, invest in hard sciences and build on our soft power. This is what our industry is doing. It can only sustain a high level of ambition on these different fronts with the support of the French government and its public partners, whether agencies or local authorities.said Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley.

"This meeting with the public authorities is particularly important given the current economic, political and international situation. Despite the economic slowdown and tougher international competition, the French cosmetics industry is staying the course in its commitment to sustainability, as well as to investment in France, the guarantor of our industrial sovereignty. The companies are calling on the public authorities to give concrete form to the legitimate goal of regulatory and administrative simplification".added Emmanuel Guichard, General Delegate of Febea.

Significant environmental advances

The discussions also provided an opportunity to highlight the progress made collectively by the industry in terms of the environment:

- Water sobriety: implementation of a voluntary plan to reduce water consumption in industrial processes, demonstrating that the sector remains committed to reducing its environmental footprint, particularly in terms of water pollution control. In the opinion of the industry committee, the major efforts already undertaken deserve to be supported, taking into account the sector's specific characteristics and ensuring that they are part of a balanced and proportionate approach, rather than a stigmatizing or punitive one, 

- Packaging recyclability: Elipso and Febea have jointly drawn up a practical guide identifying the main levers for improving cosmetics packaging recycling.

- Perfume plants: commitment to a dedicated interprofession, reinforcing the structuring and sustainability of this essential sector.

- Cosmétopée: the presence around the table of young entrepreneurs from the French overseas territories illustrated the sector's commitment to the preservation and sustainable development of biodiversity.

"I'm delighted with the many industrial investments in the cosmetics sector in France: it's a sector of excellence, an international champion, which promotes French industrial know-how on the international stage. The industry faces many challenges in continuing and amplifying this momentum, and I am determined to support it.said Marc Ferracci, Minister of Industry and Energy.

Photo: Marc-Antoine Jamet and Marc Ferracci at the Comité de filière meeting on January 28, 2025.

Innovative encapsulation technology for retinol

model-2614569_1280

Basf uses its patented solid lipid encapsulation technology to stabilize retinol in formulations. The advantages of retinol encapsulation counteract known drawbacks such as irritation and stability, and offer anti-aging benefits.

Retinol is an anti-aging molecule widely used in cosmetic applications. VitaGuard A, developed by Basf, is based on patented solid lipid particles, protecting retinol from degradation, limiting skin irritation and enabling better cutaneous bioavailability for enhanced cosmetic efficacy.

Basf points out that several studies in vitro and ex vivo conducted by the company have shown that VitaGuard A improves the stability of retinol in cosmetic formulations compared to unencapsulated retinol, benefits skin bioavailability and prevents retinol-induced irritation. In addition, the ingredient clinically improves the appearance of forehead wrinkles, skin elasticity and skin tone uniformity.

In a randomized, double-blind clinical trial on Chinese volunteers, VitaGuard A cream was evaluated at 2 % (equivalent to 0.1 % retinol) for its efficacy as an anti-aging molecule, compared with unencapsulated retinol at 0.1%. "The results concluded that VitaGuard A significantly showed an anti-wrinkle effect on the appearance of forehead wrinkles compared to baseline (D0). After eight weeks, the volume of forehead wrinkles was reduced by 37 % (p<0.01). When assessing the improvement in skin elasticity, VitaGuard A showed a significant increase in skin elasticity compared to D0 (+16%, p<0.001). In addition, skin tone uniformity was significantly improved, showing a variation of 15 % from the baseline measurements obtained (p<0.001). All these parameters were better than with the same formulation containing unencapsulated retinol at the same dose of 0.1 %".the company says.

The development of VitaGuard A underlines Basf's commitment to meeting customer needs for ease of use of retinol, which can cause skin irritation and is subject to degradation by light and air, generally making it difficult for formulators to use. All this while delivering significant anti-aging effects. 

"What's more, it's an example of how the company's Personal Care business is meeting future challenges. Sustainability, digitization, innovation and new collaborative approaches are the cornerstones of Care 360° - Solutions for Sustainable Life."Basf explains.

The Koi Can: Isimat's InLine Foiling process highlighted at Paris Packaging Week 

The Koi Can Blue

At Paris Packaging Week (January 28-29, 2025), Isimat, a manufacturer of printing machines for predominantly cylindrical parts and a subsidiary of the Kurz Group, presented "The Koi Can", an aesthetically appealing packaging solution that brings visual and haptic effects to inspire brands.

The design was developed by combining Isimat's patented InLine Foiling technology and screen printing in a single machine.

inLine Foiling is an innovative cold metallization technology that requires no heat or pressure, which reduces energy consumption and makes it suitable for thin-walled surfaces.

The process begins by applying a UV primer to the areas to be metallized. Next, the silver metallized transfer film is placed in contact with the adhesive, and the metallization is deposited only on the coated areas, thanks to simultaneous curing of the adhesive via UV lamps.

To enable multicolor metallized printing, Kurz products can be overprinted: to personalize the effects, tinted varnishes are applied to the metallization to create a wide range of metallic finishes. The surface can also be overpainted to guarantee greater durability and enhance the appearance. Kurz holographic films can also be used to create attractive effects.

By using a single Kurz silver reference and playing with overprinted shades, inLine Foiling cuts costs, eliminates minimum order quantities and optimizes inventory management. 

This technique offers an elegant decorative solution, guaranteed color accuracy and greater flexibility for eco-responsible production. In fact, the use of UV technology guarantees faster drying and lower energy consumption during the production process. This innovation represents a significant advance in the packaging industry, combining efficiency and energy savings.

InLine Foiling offers an alternative to hot stamping. This thin-wall process can be used on plastic, glass and aluminum substrates.

The "beauty loop": an experiment in packaging reuse 

The beauty loop

Since January 14, 2025, several beauty brands (Clarins, Chanel, Clinique, Lancôme and Sephora Collection) have been testing the reuse of their containers. Customers of Nocibé and Sephora partner stores can purchase products that are part of the operation. In exchange for loyalty points credited to their membership card, they have until July 31, 2025 to return the containers to the store for washing.

The products concerned by the operation can be identified by their sticker with a QR code, and by "La Boucle Beauté" displays on the shelves. The collected packaging is sent to a sorting center. Containers suitable for washing are cleaned and returned to the brands for internal quality control. They are not put back into circulation. Discarded containers are sent for recycling. Lids, pumps and caps are systematically sent for recycling.

With financial and operational support from Citeo, the aim is to test feasibility and consumer interest, and to define a re-use method for several partner brand products.

Photo taken from the website https://labouclebeaute.com.

Rissmann perfects the multi-reference gift box concept 

RISSMANN - Gift Box

Luxury brands are looking for multi-purpose, multi-reference gift boxes and e-commerce solutions, aimed at limiting storage, eliminating waste, and improving the user's opening experience.

For its Optimis luxury cardboard gift box, Rissmann, manufacturer of exceptional paper packaging, has devised a removable system consisting of a structure that is superimposed on the side walls of the box.

This folding, single-material, non-magnetic gift box can hold one or more product references thanks to one or more dividers, with the possibility of limited personalization of the dividers.

Rissmann is also behind an e-commerce gift box designed with two notched flaps to accommodate one or more dividers, which become genuine communication media to accompany the privileged moment of discovery.

Gift boxes and e-commerce boxes reduce transport and storage costs and volumes, and minimize packaging thanks to multi-reference and/or 2-in-1 models, while enhancing the brand's image thanks to their manufacture and finish, for an optimized user experience.

Optimize your skincare routine with Dropify

site-industries-cosmetiques A hand holds an open tube of skincare product on a pink background, fitting perfectly into your skincare routine. The black tube with white cream coming out of the tip proudly displays the brand name, promising to nourish your skin with care.

With Gen Z in mind, Quadpack has designed a new controlled-dose dropper that can be used with just one hand.

Designed by the Creative Hub of Quadpack, manufacturer and supplier of beauty packaging, Dropify offers brands a new way to showcase their low-viscosity products. The Dropify bottle simplifies skincare routines with oils and serums with extra-light formulas, thanks to a new one-handed gesture. 

The device features a tactile button on the side: by exerting light pressure on this button, the pipette dispenses the formula drop by drop, preventing any messy splashes. Two types of inner tip are available, each offering optimal flow for oils or serums. When not in use, the bottle stands upright, making it an attractive addition to bathroom shelves.

This packaging, which stands upright when not in use, is refillable and made from recyclable materials. It also offers the option of using recycled materials. Designed for masstige or prestige cosmeceutical brands, it combines the feel of a pharmaceutical product with a high-end appearance. It can be customized using a variety of decoration techniques. For example, a gradient effect can be applied to the bottle, while giving the applicator a uniform, matte appearance.

"The Dropify bottle is practical and hygienic, for a minimalist skincare routine. We're very excited about it, as it's our first 'dropper' item within our range that enables brands to adapt to changing consumer behavior. We are currently developing new options for our customers. So look forward to discovering new Dropify solutions with new applicators, designs and materials."explains Mónica Árcos, Category Specialist at Quadpack.

At Paris Packaging Week, Albéa unveils a range of innovations combining durability, functionality and aesthetics.

Albéa

Albéa Tubes continues to accelerate its roadmap for plastic weight reduction. At the PCD show, the company is presenting four new products from its innovative EcoTop family - the fusion of head and cap - in different diameters and shapes. 

A wide range of closures incorporating recycled content (PCR) up to 70 % is also highlighted. This significantly reduces the use of plastic throughout the tube.

All these products have been designed to offer skincare and make-up brands more responsible solutions.

Tube decoration is also in the spotlight on the Albéa stand. Advanced Decoration by NovaPrint" technology offers brands enhanced desirability and differentiation, while meeting the criteria of a more sustainable, fully recyclable solution in the HDPE stream. The "Fancy Deco" range offers a variety of decorative effects for a new, attractive user experience.

Following the success of the refillable Twirl jar, Albéa Cosmetics & Fragrance is launching a ready-to-recycle Twirl with a PET lid and base.

On the stand, the Albéa team is also presenting five responsible skincare and make-up product innovations, each representing one of the five stages of a possible daily beauty routine:

  1. "Time to get up" with a daily serum and PureDrop: a single-material, recyclable dropper.
  2. "Let's get ready with Hype PET, a compact that combines style, functionality and durability.
  3. "Lift up your lashes wherever you go" with the Taxi mascara brush.
  4. "Party hard with your favorite beauty partner", Sleek Kiss: a new refillable lipstick.
  5. "Off to bed! Take care of yourself!" with Twirl 200mL, the group's iconic pot now available in large format.

Paris Packaging Week unveils its first trend report

Paris Packaging Week

Paris Packaging Week, which takes place at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles on January 28 and 29, 2025, launches its first trend report, " Perspectives 2025: Expert views on current and future packaging trends. " This groundbreaking report, written by industry leaders, is aimed at decision-makers.

The report tackles key topics such as artificial intelligence (revolutionizing design and production thanks to AI), lightweighting (creating ultra-light and eco-responsible packaging without compromising quality), monomaterials (improving recyclability and supporting the circular economy) or experiential packaging (creating engaging packaging that enriches the consumer experience).

"The changes needed to meet growing sustainability requirements are complex, but unavoidable. Integrating these criteria from the earliest design stages is essential. The whole team must be ready to adapt and find compromises to deliver truly effective sustainable solutions."explains Sebastian Kraus, Associate Director of Packaging Development at Kao.

A Community initiative for industry 

Josh Brooks, co-director of Paris Packaging Week, shares the vision behind the report: "As the leading event dedicated to packaging innovation, we see ourselves as much more than just an organizer. We are a platform for knowledge sharing and collaboration. Perspectives 2025 is our way of giving a voice to our community to inspire meaningful innovation. This report reflects the expertise and creativity that drive our industry forward." 

Exclusive access for participants

For the first time, Paris Packaging Week is offering its participants exclusive access to Perspectives 2025. Visitors to the show will receive a free digital version of the report a few days after the event.

Texen Beauty Partners to present Lancôme's limited edition Celestial Rose Palette at Paris Packaging Week

Limited Edition Celestial Rose Palette Lancôme by Texen Beauty Partners

Lancôme unveiled its latest limited-edition creation at the end of 2024: the Celestial Rose Palette is a palette of six eyeshadows, specially designed to brighten up the holidays.

This palette is the fruit of a partnership between Lancôme and Texen Beauty Partners.

A technical and aesthetic feat 

Behind every detail of the Celestial Rose Palette lies true craftsmanship. The case is finished in rose gold metallization for a precious, luminous look. A special PET insert houses two applicators and six compartments for as many shades of eyeshadow. 

A subtle recess at the top of the cap accommodates a PU (polyurethane) plate, imitating elegant midnight-blue leather, on which Lancôme's famous Agora rose is debossed. This leather finish features hot stamping, silver and rose gold, and a delicate addition of rhinestones for high-end sparkle.

According to Texen Beauty Partners, "The major challenge lay in the production of the PU sheet, the quality of which demanded expert mastery of the processes involved.

The pallet will be presented at the PCD section of Paris Packaging Week, to be held on January 28 and 29, 2025 at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles.

Fred Zülli, founder of Mibelle Biochemistry, winner of the Kurt J. Pfeiffer Award

site-industries-cosmetiques A man with short, dark hair, dressed in a dark suit and light-colored shirt, smiles at the camera against a plain white background. He embodies Mibelle Biochemistry's expertise and proudly wears the Kurt J. Pfeiffer Award recognition in his field.

Fred Zülli received the prestigious Kurt J. Pfeiffer Award at the recent General Meeting of the Swiss Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Swiss SCC). The award recognizes outstanding contributions to the advancement of Swiss cosmetology and the Swiss SCC.

A biochemist, Fred Zülli founded Mibelle Biochemistry in 1991, when he had the idea of developing high-quality scientific ingredients for the cosmetics industry, based on new biochemical concepts for the skin. After 30 years as Managing Director, he is now Director of Business Development, leading the research department and sales team.

The Kurt J. Pfeiffer Memorial Prize is awarded to individuals or organizations who have made an outstanding contribution in this field.

Our last issue

Listen to us!

Newsletter

en_USEnglish