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Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care builds a sustainable and innovative future through strategic in vitro partnerships

By
The editorial staff
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For more than 30 years, Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care's network of companies has grown to become a leader in adopting new analytical methods and services. As part of our sustainable vision, we are passionate about working with our partners to develop game-changing innovations and new analytical perspectives to better serve our customers. In this way, we are convinced that working together is the key to building and accelerating the next generation of in vitro testing.

Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care is committed to building long-term, transparent and trusted partnerships with strategic companies that have the experience, expertise, knowledge and capabilities to support future in vitro innovations. Our diverse collaborations encompass leading European start-ups that foster entrepreneurial spirit, including:

  • Ctibiotech supplies 3D bioprinted complete skin models (production of 50 to 100 artificial skin models using skin cells from a single donor), in vitro models (different types of human cells from pre-clinical quality skin production) and ex vivo biopsy models (including skin, scalp, hair and tissue on demand).
  • Phenocell provides in vitro tests for dermatology and ophthalmology research, based on revolutionary iPS cells.
  • Bionos provides efficacy testing for the cosmetics and food industries, mainly in in vitro and ex vivo bioassays, using state-of-the-art equipment and techniques at its facilities at the La Fe Hospital in Valencia, Spain.

These three partnerships complement Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care's current global offering, and are part of the companies' overall strategy to provide one-stop shopping and offer superior, sustainable solutions.

[podcast] Innovating through logistics

By
editocom
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To complement the article in Industries Cosmétiques n° 34 (June 2022), we invite you to listen to the full interview with Bruno Guillard, Corporate Business Development Manager Dachser Cosmetics Logistics.

Innovative logistics for the perfume and cosmetics industry. That's the challenge taken up by Dachser and its new entity, Dachser cosmetics logistics, launched last April. Explanations from Bruno Guillard, who heads up the new entity and has been listening to the market for many years...

Between false positives and contradictory studies: the reality of the allergic risk of Essential Oils

By
The editorial staff
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For the last 10 years, the media have widely reported on the potentially allergenic properties of Essential Oils (EO). While the projects of revision of the European regulations, in particular on the chemical substances and the cosmetics, intend to revisit this subject, it is advisable to take into account the last advances of the research:

  1. taken as a whole, thes HE are safe
  2. allergic risks are poorly understood

Thus, the HE Consortium calls on regulatory authorities to reconsider their position. The current framework is no longer adapted, it disproportionately impacts a sector that is a source of jobs, know-how and agro-ecological transition.  

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EO safety

The reality and acuteness of the allergic risk of Essential Oils is based on studies that are often contradictory and systematically statistically biased since the clinical data are maximizing with respect to the general population.

For example, a study of 62,354 patients conducted between 2009 and 2014 by the Information Network of Departments of Dermatology (IVDK) (Germany, Switzerland, Austria) and the US/Canadian North American Contact Dermatitis Group (NACDG) showed a extremely low rate of positive feedback (0,3%) for lavender EO and tea tree EO.

Thus, what is often identified as an allergy turns out to be in the vast majority of cases a simple irritation.

Allergenic risks poorly understood

In July 2021, theOECD (reference organization for the validation of toxicological tests) warns that the LLNA test produces false positives in its application to EO constituents. So that in the list of 26 allergens of mandatory labeling on cosmetic products, 5 are no longer considered allergenic according to the OECD[3] (alpha-isomethyl ionone, benzyl benzoate, citronellol, limonene, linalool).

These misjudgments often come from a confusion between the products and their oxidized versions. Today, all scientific authorities have admitted that the allergenic character of EO is mainly provided by the oxidation of the constituents of EO. The conditions ofoxidation are particular and do not occur under normal storage conditions.

In addition, some isolated components may have side effects that disappear when naturally present in a total essential oil. This is the case, for example, of citral, whose effects are not comparable if it is tested alone or in citronella essential oil, where it becomes harmless at equivalent concentrations. 

HE Consortium Recommendations

  1. Evaluate the essential oil in its entirety, rather than making assumptions on the basis of its isolated constituents.
  1. Reconsidering regulations in light of the latest scienceAt the very least, remove the obligation to indicate "May cause a skin allergy" on the 5 components that are no longer considered allergenic.
  2. Reminder of the good practices of conservation of the EO: well closed and protected from the light.

[podcast] Interview with... Pierre Bondon, Exsymol

By
editocom
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To complement the article in Industries Cosmétiques n° 34 (June 2022), we invite you to listen to the full interview with Pierre Bondon, CEO of Exsymol.

A producer of active ingredients in the heart of Monaco, Exsymol faces a multitude of constraints and challenges to supply the market with its range of silanols, recognized by the scientific community. Fifty years after its creation, the company is diversifying and expanding. Interview with Pierre Bondon, the company's Managing Director.

Solvay launches new bio-based surfactants for carbon-neutral beauty care products

By
The editorial staff
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Mirasoft SL L60 and Mirasoft SL A60, biosourced and biodegradable 100 % surfactants derived from a competitive fermentation process, are intended for a wide range of hair and skin care products.

Solvay, a leading supplier of cosmetic ingredients, launches Mirasoft SL L60 and Mirasoft SL A60, two new biosourced surfactants based on rapeseed oil and sugar that enable the development of eco-responsible beauty care products. These glycolipid biosurfactants have a low carbon and environmental footprint, and are suitable for a wide range of beauty care products such as shampoos, conditioners, shower gels, cleansing gels and face creams.

The launch of Mirasoft is part of the Group's new "Renewable Materials and Biotechnology" growth platform, which aims to expand Solvay's product range of renewable and sustainable raw materials, and to develop new approaches to managing the end-of-life of these products, such as their biodegradability.
" These new products demonstrate our leadership position in surfactant technology and our long-term vision. "explains Jean-Guy Le Helloco, Solvay's Vice President Home and Personal Care. " We focus on technological innovation to help our customers achieve their sustainability goals. "


Mirasoft SL L60 and Mirasoft SL A60 have been designed to offer the same performance as synthetic ingredients, but with limited environmental impact. In fact, these products are biodegradable and entirely derived from natural resources using green chemistry processes. Their production reflects Solvay's commitment to sustainable development and the circular and regenerative economy.


" Biobased surfactants have the potential to be carbon-neutral, and represent a major technological shift in the eco-design of next-generation beauty care products. "adds Galder Cristobal, Solvay's Director of Home and Personal Care Research and Innovation. " The eco-profile of Mirasoft SL L60 and Mirasoft SL A60 is a real step forward compared with traditional surfactants based on fossil resources. "
Beyond the ambitions of its Solvav One Planet plan, which aims to preserve natural resources and provide safer, more sustainable products, Solvay is promoting the Beautv for the Planet initiative to accelerate the adoption of sustainable innovations in beauty, through partnerships with its customers.

Global Bioenergies announces that it has received initial orders from several major cosmetics companies for a total of several tons of Isonaturane 12

By
The editorial staff
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Less than two months after commissioning the Pomacle commercial production unit, Global Bioenergies has announced that several major cosmetics companies, including L'Oréal, have placed their first orders for a total of several tonnes of Isonaturane 12.
Isonaturane 12 is the brand name registered by Global Bioenergies for its naturally-derived isododecane. Isododecane is one of the great molecules of cosmetics, used both in the make-up segment, where it is the only one able to provide long-lasting properties, and in dermocosmetics and hair care, where it confers lightness and softness to textures. Thanks to Global Bioenergies, this compound is now available in a bio-sourced version, in compliance with the ISO 16128 standard on naturalness in cosmetics. Isonaturane 12 is produced via a French 100% chain based exclusively on local sourcing of raw materials.
For L'Oréal, the leading shareholder in Global Bioenergies via its investment fund Bold (Business Opportunities for L'Oréal Development), these first orders for Isonaturane will help support the group's efforts to make its make-up products more natural, and are in line with the ambitious objectives of its L'Oréal for the Future sustainable development program.
Ana Kljuic, Vice President R&I L'Oréal for the Future & Green Sciences, explains: " Our investment in Global Bioenergies is at the heart of our commitment to reach 95% of bio-sourced ingredients, derived from abundant minerals or from circular processes in our formulas by 2030. Through its bold technology, which is now becoming an industrial reality, Global Bioenergies is enabling the cosmetics world to gain ground in its quest for naturalness, and, beyond cosmetics, to play an active part in the environmental transition. "
Daphné Galvez, Commercial Director of Global Bioenergies, says: " We are now finalizing long-standing discussions with a number of specific players. A new wave of orders is on the way: at In-cosmetics, the world's leading cosmetics ingredients trade show held last month in Paris, where we launched Isonaturane 12 commercially, we held around a hundred discussions with a wide range of players: brands, manufacturers and distributors. "

[podcast] Paris Packaging Week > innovative exhibitors speak out

By
editocom
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As the doors of Paris Packaging Week are about to open, we wanted to give the floor to two manufacturers. Beryl Trentin, Sales Manager at VPI Faiveley Plast and one of its customers, Antoine Rigaud, Operations Manager at 900.care.

VPI Faiveley Plast is a specialist in plastic injection molding. Founded in 1931 and based in the Jura region of France, VPI offers solutions for closures, deosks, boxes and dispensers combining finish and functionality for the luxury goods, perfume, cosmetics and spirits markets.

900.care is a brand of refillable bathroom products: shower gel, hand foaming gel in dissolvable sticks, toothpaste in chewable tablets or deodorant in refillable sachets. Why 900? Because 900 is the average number of seconds we spend taking care of ourselves every morning and evening. Convinced that these 900 seconds should be as joyful as they are eco-friendly, the young company creates products that are good for you and good for the planet.

Latest joint innovation: a mouthwash in effervescent pastilles. After producing the shower gel cap, the refillable solid deodorant case and the toothpaste dispenser, VPI has taken on 9oo.care's latest challenge: its refillable mouthwash tablet packaging. 900.care explains: "It's a clever packaging. The tablets are stored in the body of the bottle, and the opening cap serves as a measuring cup. The user drops in a tablet, adds water and obtains a mouthwash.

VPI Faiveley Plast and 900.care have joined forces to promote responsible innovation, and are looking forward to a number of exciting encounters at the show...

Expanscience launches a liquid version of Sweetone Bio, an active ingredient that corrects imperfections, soothes and unifies the skin

By
The editorial staff
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The powder form launched in 2013 remains available; it is not a replacement but an additional product. Quality and efficacy remain the same.

This new galenic formulation enables us to meet our customers' new needs. The manufacturing process for the liquid form of Sweetone Bio (Schisandra sphenanthera extract) is the same as for the powder form. Only the stabilization method is different: maltodextrin for the powder form / glycerine for the liquid form.

The supply chain for schisandra berries, from which the Sweetone Bio active ingredient is extracted, is FairWild certified. This certification is awarded to ingredients derived from plants collected in the wild. It guarantees the sustainability of wild plants and human resources.

Designing the next generation of packaging

By
The editorial staff
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Recent innovative developments in packaging have mainly revolved around different aspects of sustainability, such as recyclability, biodegradability, compostability, refillability, reusability and the use of bio-based materials or raw materials from renewable resources. Eurofins' network of companies supports its customers' quality control and risk assessment procedures in the design, reuse and recovery of packaging, from the resin stage to the final packaging and throughout the product life cycle:

  • Regulatory and safety assessment: review of documentation, verification of compliance, assessment of container-content interaction, development of an appropriate analytical test plan.
  • Analytical tests :
    o Guarantee performance: physical, stability and mechanical tests.
    o Guaranteeing safety: analyses for toxic substances, food contact tests
    o Design for sustainability: measuring plastic content, end-of-life recovery, compostability
  • Audit and consulting: Supply chain assessment: packaging manufacturers, packaging material suppliers, support to identify and evaluate both recycling solutions and suppliers of recycled materials.

Our experts and network of internationally accredited laboratories help beauty brands and packaging suppliers meet and exceed their sustainability commitments and targets, such as improving recyclability and using recycled materials.

Superga Beauty invests in lipstick casting lines

By
The editorial staff
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Pocatello, Idaho, USA June 18, 2012 A machine putting lipstick in tubes in a cosmetics factory.

Superga Beauty is currently working on new projects to meet the needs of its customers. The BPS Artois industrial site, the group's Skincare hub, with an activity mainly dedicated to filling and packaging skincare products, is opening up to a new technology by equipping itself with two new lipstick casting lines.
"This investment of over a million euros is in response to the growing needs of brands," explains Leslie Bréau-Méniger, President of Superga Beauty, who is now steering the growth of the business.
To ensure the highest standards of quality, the two COUS filling machines have been installed in a dedicated room in a protected environment, with filtration to prevent any flow of dust and impurities. Two machine sizes. Superga Beauty places flexibility at the heart of this new Offer by proposing a wide range of quantities, from small runs (2,000 units per shade) to larger runs (>10,000 units). What's more, the machines are equipped for pouring, as well as for stitching skincare balms and pouring face sticks from the bottom.

" The beauty world needs flexibility and agility: that's what Superga Beauty provides. "

" Our position in the beauty market has undoubtedly strengthened in recent years. Our customers trust us. All the investments we are making to diversify enable us to attract new customers as well as support our existing customers in their development. They testify to our confidence in the future ".

- Leslie Bréau-Méniger

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