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Faiveley Plast Beauty (VPI) lends its expertise to Ulé, Shiseido's new natural and eco-conscious skincare brand

By
Kristel Milet
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Ulé is based on a reasoned, eco-conscious vision of beauty, with cosmetic formulations promoting naturalness. The young brand needed packaging to match its eco-responsible objectives. Ulé chose the expertise of Faiveley Plast Beauty to manufacture its biosourced caps.

The power of nature, boosted by technology 

Ulé stands for responsible, conscious beauty, with highly effective natural products. " The power of nature, boosted by technology "describes the brand, which makes its products with plants fromeco-farms and according to formulations developed by experts. Ulé chose containers (jars and bottles) made from lightweight glass, for reduced carbon impact, as well as caps made from biosourced materials. Faiveley Plast Beauty (VPI) was able to deploy its expertise in this area.

Biobased materials: an eco-responsible choice

Faiveley Plast Beauty (VPI), experts in the transformation of Sulapac materials, worked with Shiseido's R&D and purchasing teams to develop primary packaging for the Ulé brand. 
The company produced all the hoods for the new range, including two different-sized hoods for the cream. I'm chill "(15 ml and 30 ml caps), and a cap for the balancing floral mist " The beautiful Reset ".
These hoods are made of two pieces of Sulapac, the biosourced alternative to plastic created by the company of the same name. This material offers numerous advantages in terms of eco-responsibility - biosourcing of FSC wood, durability, industrial compostability, eco-design, low carbon impact, European manufacturing - as well as quality and functionality. 

For Faiveley Plast Beauty, the Ulé hoods represented a number of technical challenges. We had to master the injection and assembly of two Sulapac materials - the premium material and the barrier material - in keeping with the brand's sleek, elegant design. It was also essential for the caps to comply with packaging approval specifications. This requires, on the one hand, perfect protection of the formulas (oxygen barrier), and, on the other, the ability to degrade (compostability in an industrial environment).
Faiveley Plast Beauty and Sulapac worked hard on the hood colors, to ensure that they blended perfectly with the brand's range. Finally, the brand logo was inlaid on all the hoods.

Marc Beltrami, Sales Manager declares : " Faiveley Plast Beauty is proud to launch its second complete range of products in Sulapac materials. The challenges presented to us by our brands are a source of emulation and innovation for our teams. They motivate us to constantly push back the boundaries of our expertise. "

Carestia Arcade Beauty equips itself with a Speedmaster CX 104 from Heidelberg 

By
Kristel Milet
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Operational from the 4th quarter of 2022, this intelligent machine will allow Carestia Arcade Beauty to gain in creativity, reactivity and quality. It will also allow the company to position itself on new product typologies. The latest technological innovations applied to this new generation of machines are perfectly in line with the group's CSR approach.
Within the framework of the responsible optimization of its know-how, Carestia Arcade Beauty has just invested in a Heidelberg CX 104 offset printing machine. Until now equipped in large format on all the stations (cutting, gilding, embossing...), Carestia Arcade Beauty takes the turn of the large format offset and harmonizes its machines. This last generation equipment is mixed, allowing UV printing and conventional offset printing. This machine offers a linear quality, whatever the support, from the extra thin sheet to the rigid cardboard. 

Gaining agility

With this acquisition, the Mouans-Sartoux site is pursuing its intelligent automation process... It is part of the company's project for the PSO color management standard as part of the ISO 12647-2 certification. Remarkable for its printing speed, its flexibility of execution, this machine allows shorter "good to print", optimized schedules, secured productions, the repeatability of colors and the stability of inking throughout the production.

A good point for CSR 

This new equipment will optimize impositions and increase production capacity. The precision and speed of coloring at the start of production and the stability of inking throughout the print run help to reduce paper-cardboard waste. In addition, the press is more energy-efficient. Heidelberg is committed to its customers through CO2-neutral certification by offsetting 100 % of the carbon emissions generated by the manufacture and transport of the press.
Finally, the ergonomic design of the tool provides operators with an optimized and safe working environment.

Creapharm Cosmetics strengthens its industrial tool: new eco-responsible packaging solutions

By
The editorial staff
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For many years, Creapharm Cosmetics, a manufacturer of custom cosmetics, has made naturalness the spearhead of its formulation laboratory.
Anticipating the needs of the cosmetics industry, CREAPHARM continually offers new cosmetics ranges, with pre-developed formulas in line with consumer trends. Solid cosmetics, for example, have enriched the product portfolios of many Creapharm customers. In addition, our experts have recently been working with brands to reformulate their products for ever greater naturalness.


Durability: the Formule + Pack duo

But every formula needs to be packaged! Packaging is also a sustainable development issue.
In 2022, Creapharm Cosmetics invested in a new packaging machine dedicated to the automatic filling of aluminum tubes.
A packaging machine capable of processing more durable, 100 % recyclable and environmentally-friendly materials, while guaranteeing excellence in terms of production lead times.


An aluminium tube filler, the choice of machine

- Technology: automatic filling and closing of aluminum tubes by bending with metal head closure
- Quality: designed to take care of products during the packaging process
- Flexibility: optimized tool changeover and cleaning for rapid production changeovers (new product or new format).
- CSR: a machine designed and manufactured in France by a supplier committed to sustainable beauty. The machine Creapharm has invested in is designed to last. All arguments in line with Creapharm Group's Purchasing Charter and CSR Charter.

Caroline Serafini, Manager of the Creapharm Cosmetics site in La Neuville-en-Hez, near Paris, confirms:
" Because one of Creapharm Cosmetics' strong commitments is to offer brands turnkey solutions that meet the challenge of sustainability, we are proud to propose a coherent offer, from the formulation to the packaging of these cosmetic products: formulas with a very high level of naturalness in the most eco-responsible packs possible.
Brands are looking for products that reflect the right balance between naturalness and technology, and the acquisition of this new aluminum tube filler will enable us to meet their needs. "

The first trade event for the naturalness industry arrives in November 2022

By
The editorial staff
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Naturalness: everyone's talking about it, but what exactly is it?


Innov'Alliance invites you to meet and discuss this topic and is launching the 1era edition of the Journées de la Naturalité!
A unique 2-day event in the prestigious setting of the Palais des Papes in Avignon on November 9 & 10, 2022 to fill up on technical/scientific information and network meetings. The Journées de la Naturalité will be punctuated by a series of BtoB meetings, enabling you to find new customers, discover suppliers, forge partnerships...
This 1era is already being heralded as the must-attend professional event for the naturalness sector!

Biolandes' new products presented at Simppar in Paris

By
The editorial staff
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Since its creation in 1980, Biolandes has worked conscientiously to respect nature and people.

Minimizing its impact on the environment and preserving local ecosystems have always been at the heart of its decisions. This commitment has been a constant feature of the company's day-to-day choices and vision, as well as of the various ranges of extracts it offers.

In keeping with this approach, the brand is sharing the latest additions to its range of natural products, for this 2022 edition of Simppar.

Popcorn extract

simppar 3- Perfumes - Product info

In partnership with a local company in southwest France, Biolandes offers this unique natural extract.

It is also part of the upcycling range, thanks to its sourcing and production process: it processes corn kernel waste, which is extracted at the Le Sen site.

Its soft, sweet notes evolve into an addictive buttery dominance that's truly reminiscent of popcorn! The finish remains soft, warm, evoking a very persistent cereal scent, a reference to the original material. It becomes a wonderful ingredient to combine with floral notes, woody notes or musks.

Oman incense essence

simppar 2- Perfumes - Product info

Olibanum, more commonly known as "frankincense", is an emblematic plant of the Middle East, where it grows wild in regions with rocky, chalky soil. It is prized for its "tears", hard clusters formed by the natural crystallization of its resinous exudate. Gathered by hand, they are used for a variety of purposes, including local cultural practices ranging from medicinal treatments to religious celebrations. Different qualities of tears can be identified, producing oils with distinct aromatic profiles.

For Simppar 2022, the brand has chosen to present an original Boswellia sacra essence obtained from high-grade Omani tears, sourced in the heart of the natural growing areas of Dhofar province.

Encens Oman Essence breaks with the olfactory codes of its Somalian namesake: it boasts very fresh terpenic top notes that persist right through to the base notes, providing a very clean, fresh effect. In the heart, the balmy, spicy-fruity effects characteristic of incense resources evolve towards a subtly zesty freshness that gives it its originality.

Ylang-ylang complete comores bio essence

Its Comorian distillery, based in Domoni (the largest in Anjouan), was created in 2007 and bought by Biolandes in 2014. It can produce 4 T of ylang-ylang and integrates a network of 250 farmers and distillers.

Its presence in the Comoros enables it, in collaboration with the authorities and its suppliers, to :

- find solutions to the problem of adulteration of ylang-ylang essential oils;

- work to improve essential oil quality;

- contribute to the professionalization of local distillers (training in financial management, calculating profitability);

- reduce environmental impact, particularly with regard to deforestation and water use (financial and technical assistance to improve distilleries, especially their wood consumption, and assistance in recycling distillation cooling water).

The company's commitment to protecting the environment and local populations has resulted in the Ecocert label being awarded to all its ylang-ylang products: improved cultivation, and the transmission of good practices to tree owners, have made it possible to develop this partnership by being the first to offer certified organic extracts of Comorian origin. As a result, we now offer this great perfumery classic in pure, natural 100%.

Used in fine fragrances, cosmetics and personal care products, complete ylang ylang oil delivers all the facets of these pretty flowers: fruity scents evoking banana in the top note, floral opulence in the heart note, and a smoky signature in the base note.

SGS proposes a unique analysis method to test the list of 57 allergens targeted by the European Commission

By
The editorial staff
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♦ In its Rouen laboratory, SGS, world leader in testing, inspection and certification, has specialized in chemical, physicochemical and ecotoxicological analyses for several decades.
♦ Since 2021, SGS has been offering cosmetics manufacturers and distributors a unique analysis method for testing the 57 allergens defined in SCCS opinion 1459/11 of June 2012, and which is currently the subject of a draft European regulation, with entry into force scheduled for the 1st quarter of 2022.
♦ Adapted from IFRA, this new method has been developed using gas chromatography (GC) coupled with mass spectrometry (MS). Its reduced number of injections per sample saves time in data reprocessing. In addition to ingredients, analyses are particularly focused on finished products, as the presence of possible allergen precursors and the instability of certain formulas can generate allergens not predicted during the development phase.


After nickel allergy, fragrance allergy is the most widespread skin allergy. Fragrances are almost always present in cosmetic products, whether in the form of synthetic substances or of natural origin, such as essential oils. They can potentially trigger a contact allergy affecting the skin, generally the face, armpits and hands, or cause skin irritation in certain individuals, such as eczema.
The SGS Rouen laboratory, specialized in chemical, physico-chemical and ecotoxicological analyses, employs over 100 people and processes around 50,000 samples a year, from all sectors of activity, including cosmetics, detergents and hygiene products.
It has state-of-the-art equipment, including chromatographic and spectral techniques, enabling it to search for trace chemical substances covered by regulations.
To meet the needs of manufacturers and distributors of cosmetic products, relating to the 57 allergens defined in the SCCS notice 1459/11 of June 2012, SGS has developed a unique method of analysis. Adapted from the Ifra method, it was developed using gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (GC/MS). It allows to detect and quantify that the 57 fragrances, including some isomers, have a concentration lower than 0.001% in the non rinsed products and 0.01% in the rinsed products. Above these concentrations, allergens will have to be labelled to inform the consumer.
" To enable analysis of finished products and complex matrices, we have adapted the IFRA method, originally developed for perfumery ingredients. We use two columns of different polarity and systematic matrix doping to guarantee the reliability of our results. Based on our experience, we recommend carrying out these analyses on finished products, due to possible interactions when mixing ingredients, the possible presence of allergen precursors and the instability of certain formulas over time. In this way, customers can guarantee the conformity of their products right up to their estimated end-of-life. "says Audrey Guibet, Cosmetics & Hygiene strategic expert, SGS France.
Consumers will be warned of allergenic components in the list of ingredients labelled on the product (INCI list). The higher the concentration of an ingredient present, the higher its position in the INCI list.
" This analysis of finished products enables us to guarantee manufacturers, distributors and consumers that our cosmetic products comply with current and future regulations. "concludes Carine Dumas, Cosmetics & Hygiene Development Manager, SGS France.


Regulatory requirements*:

  • To date, 25** allergens have been tested and must be labeled if present {** Lirai banned since August 2021).
  • The SCCS opinion 1459/11 of June 2012, which recommended informing consumers about the presence of 62 additional allergens, is the subject of a regulation that will come into force in 2022.
  • In all, 87*** allergenic substances will have to be monitored.
    *** Of these 87 substances, 57 are currently technically analyzable, as the NF EN 16274 standard will be updated in September 2021. Not all allergens are covered by this method, as some are complex mixtures such as plant extracts.
    Application timetable :
  • Adoption of regulations: 1st quarter 2022
  • 2*™ quarter 2025: ban on marketing non-compliant products.
  • 2nd quarter 2027: withdrawal of non-compliant products from the market.

[podcast] Pharmatech Cosmetech 2022 > continuation and end of the interviews

By
editocom
-

For the continuation of our series dedicated to the Pharmatech Cosmetech trade show and its innovations, watch two new episodes.

Episode 29 This time, interviews with a more "machines and production tools" slant. You'll be able to listen to Jérome Cheron from E+E Elektronik talking about sensors; Jean-Louis Fontanilles from Sotic on the subject of geared motors; Jérémy Dupuy from RS Components focusing on services for good industrial maintenance; and a duo: Philippe Gomes and Bruno Quaegebeur from Soretrac talking about eco-designed packaging films.

Episode 30: To conclude the series, we invite you to listen to Soline Godet from Cosmetic Valley, who will talk about ...
Then Paul-Arthur Sol from Mettler Toledo, who focuses on pure and ultra-pure water analysis. Then it's Mehdy Abadou's turn to talk about Bürkert's new products, including a flowmeter that replaces mastic flowmeters. Finally, Pascal Billy, representing CDA, will talk about filling, capping and labeling lines...

Raised Stopper Inspection, a solution for detecting industrial stopper errors in sterile environments

By
The editorial staff
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The only solution on the market dedicated to the inspection of lyophilized vials in sterile environments, the Raised Stopper Inspection (RSI) features a high-performance camera system and manages the zone between the cap and the capping, previously uninspected in primary pharmaceutical packaging.

Antares Vision Group, the Italian leader in traceability, product protection, visual inspection, tracking solutions and intelligent data management, based in Lyon (69), France, took part for the 5th year running in Pharmapack, the European pharmaceutical packaging trade show held at Paris Expo - Porte de Versailles on May 18 & 19, 2022.

On its stand C38 in Hall 7.2, Antares Vision Group will be presenting Raised Stopper Inspection, an innovative solution for detecting industrial errors in the stoppering of bottles in sterile environments.

RSI reduces the risk of air ingress and contamination

Developed to acclimatize to sterile Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) manufacturing environments, Raised Stopper Inspection is designed to :

  1. Detect the space between the neck and the base of the bottle cap;
  2. Reject those whose caps do not fully adhere to the flask collars, such as tilted, incorrectly positioned, missing or damaged caps.

The risk of air ingress and contamination is reduced, and in the event of repeated faults, the machine provides immediate feedback to pharmaceutical manufacturers.

Raised Stopper Inspection technology is part of Antares Vision's Track&Trace Solutions.

It makes it possible to manage the area between capping and closure, previously uncontrolled in primary pharmaceutical packaging.

Raised Stopper Inspection lends itself to the development of new vision applications in sterile and non-sterile pharmaceutical operations.

Compact (total length 760 mm) and self-contained, Raised Stopper Inspection is specifically designed for detection in sterile environments, and can be integrated into both existing and new lines.

IMG 8342- Perfumes - Product info
The RSI on display on Antares Vision Group stand C38 at PharmaPack Paris.

RSI is at the service of performance!

  • Inspection speed: up to 30 units/min.
  • Compatible with a wide range of bottles, from 10 to 300 ml, and caps, from 20 to 32mm.
  • Quick format changeover: just 15 minutes!

Antares Vision Group: a global presence

The Group is present in over 60 countries with its comprehensive, flexible hardware and software solutions and associated services.

Antares Vision Group has 7 production sites in Italy (Brescia, Parma, Piacenza, Latina, Collecchio, Mestrino and Vicenza), 22 foreign subsidiaries (Germany, France [3], USA [7], Latin America [2], UK, Spain, South Korea, India, Russia, Hong Kong, China, Croatia and Serbia), 3 Innovation and Research Centers (Italy) and a worldwide network of over 40 partners.

Thanks to the two founding partners' twenty years' experience in vision technologies, the Antares Vision Group is a supplier to 10 of the world's top 20 pharmaceutical industries, with over 25,000 inspection systems guaranteeing product safety and quality on a daily basis, 6,500 quality controls and over 3,500 serialization modules on lines installed worldwide.

Antares Vision Group: a strategy of strong growth

To support growth and the development strategy initiated in 2019, we have finalized shareholding agreements with T2 Software, a Brazilian company specializing in intelligent data management solutions, and Orobix, a leading Italian company in artificial intelligence services, as well as the acquisition of 100 % from FT System, a leader in control and inspection in the beverage sector.

In 2020, Antares Vision Group acquired 82.83 % of Tradeticity, a Croatian company specializing in traceability management software and serialization processes, 100% of Convel, an Italian company specializing in automated machine inspection for the pharmaceutical industry, the assets of Adents High Tech International, a French company specializing in serialization and traceability software, 100% of Applied Vision, a leader in inspection systems for glass and metal containers in the food industry.

In March 2021, Antares Vision Group acquired 100 % from rfXcel Corporation, a US-based specialist in software solutions for supply chain digitization and transparency, and 100 % from Pen-Tec and Tecnel, via FT System, a growing specialization in the food and beverage inspection sector. And as recently as September 2021, Antares Vision Group signed an agreement with Russia's Baikalsea to ensure the traceability of mineral water bottles.

[podcast] Discover what's new at Pharmatech Cosmetech 2022

By
editocom
-

Held in Chartres from May 31 to June 2, 2022, the Pharmatech Cosmetech trade show brings together industry professionals to present new products and market trends.

We set up our studio at the heart of the show and interview partners, exhibitors and visitors...

Discover the interviews from the first day of the show in two episodes.

Episode 27 Meet Julie Voyer, show director; Jean-Marc Lenoir for Olsa, Sophie De Reynal for Nutrimarketing and Hervé Baillieu and Virgile Duclos for Dr Paul Lohmann.

Episode 28 These include: Scortex, represented by Aymeric de Pontbriand, who is banking on the digitization of quality control; Dynamic and Virginie Subileau, who are presenting the mixers in the Misceo range; and Rémi Turbet-Delof, who is representing Antares Vision and its tools for guaranteeing product authenticity...

Croda supports the IFSCC 2022 Congress as a platinum sponsor

By
The editorial staff
-

Croda International Pic, the company that uses smart science to create specialty chemical ingredients, is excited to announce that it will support this year's IFSCC conference as a Platinum Sponsor.


With a focus on meeting changing consumer needs while committing to sustainability and social responsibility, Croda Personal Care is a global player that develops creative and trendy solutions through innovation, technical expertise and sustainability. The sponsorship of this event demonstrates Croda's commitment to innovation in the cosmetics industry, but also aims to celebrate its long history of market-leading innovation.


The 32nd IFSCC Congress will take place September 19-22 in London and Croda is particularly proud, as a UK-based company, to support this year's event there, strengthening the link to innovation in the beauty industry. The theme for this year's IFSCC is "Where Beauty, Science and Innovation Meet". This theme fits perfectly with Croda's ambition for innovation, but it also reflects the need for partnerships and collaborations to drive real change for the future. This theme comes at a time when collaboration within the industry is essential, in order to meet the challenges facing the world today and build a more sustainable future for all.
Dr. Tony Gough, IFSCC president-elect, said, " We are delighted to welcome Croda as a Platinum Sponsor of the 32nd IFSCC Congress, a prestigious event that would not be possible without the support of such a generous sponsor. IFSCC 2022 will be a wonderful event filled with high quality presentations on the latest cosmetic science." 


Laura Willemsen, Vice President - Consumer Care Marketing at Croda, added: " IFSCC brings together industry players to successfully introduce science and technology for the cosmetics industry. Croda's goal is to put smart science to work to improve lives, and our teams regularly work with partners on new innovations and science to meet the ever-changing needs of consumers. The themes of this year's conference resonate with our science and innovation priorities, and we are excited to contribute and showcase concepts from our Beauty Actives and Beauty Formulations R&T teams and engage with our partners on new scientific developments and opportunities. It is a pleasure to support the organization of the London edition, close to our headquarters in Yorkshire, UK." 


Dr. Tony Gough continues: " The event will bring together academic researchers, scientists and formulators from around the world, creating the perfect environment for the cross-fertilization of ideas to inspire. Demand to present in London has been high, despite the uncertainty that remains in some parts of the world, reflecting the prestige associated with attending the IFSCC. With the program now announced, final preparations are underway and IFSCC 2022 will soon be a reality. We look forward to seeing you in London in September!" 


As a well-known and respected global supplier of specialty ingredients to the beauty industry, Croda is extremely proud to be able to sponsor this event that aims to push the boundaries of innovation and inspire collaboration.

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