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EpiCalsome: supramolecular calcium for barrier repair

By
The editorial staff
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Loss of the skin's calcium gradient is a key factor in barrier disruption and skin ageing. Consequently, replenishing the skin's calcium reserves may be one way of combating ageing barrier dysfunction.
EpiCalsome is a new, superior calcium delivery system that protects and renews the skin. This new technology encapsulates calcium ions with the highest quality phospholipids, enabling optimal bioavailability of calcium to the skin.

EpiCalsome is an innovative double-cone vector system that encapsulates calcium for simple, effective delivery of bioavailable calcium to the skin (patent pending).

Benefits of EpiCalsome :

  • Replenishes calcium levels in aged skin.
  • Protects and repairs damaged skin
  • Promotes faster skin recovery
  • Fortifies delicate skin
  • Prevents skin dryness and irritation

The Pochet group announces the electrification of a furnace dedicated to luxury bottles by 2024

By
The editorial staff
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Committed to reducing its environmental impact and acting for an Alternative Luxury, the Pochet group has announced the electrification of an oven at its Guimerville plant by 2024.

An ambitious decarbonization plan

This new electric furnace is part of the Pochet Group's global decarbonization plan, which aims to reduce its CO2 and combat global warming.
Since 2014, the Pochet Group has reduced its CO emissions by 32 %.2 and aims to reach 50 % by 2033.

France's first electric furnace dedicated to luxury bottles

This furnace will be the first in France dedicated to luxury bottles, and will enable us to offer fragrance, skincare and make-up brands a considerably decarbonated glass that is less polluting for the planet.
The project, backed by the Group's private family shareholders, represents a major investment and will be operational by the end of 2024.
" This electric furnace will be the very first French furnace dedicated to luxury bottles. It will enable us to drastically reduce our CO2 by producing a glass
greatly decarbonized, guaranteeing tomorrow's beauty "says Benoit Marszalek, Pochet du Courval's Director of Operations.

400 years, looking to the future

The Pochet Group, which celebrates its 400th anniversary in 2023, is stepping up its ambitions for Luxe Autrement.

Cosmetics and personal care professionals head to Paris Expo Porte de Versailles for the return of in-cosmetics Global

By
The editorial staff
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The world's leading trade show for personal care ingredients returned in person, and thousands of suppliers and manufacturers of cosmetic ingredients gathered to network, learn and do business.

in-cosmetics Global, the world's leading trade show for personal care ingredients, made a triumphant return to Paris this month, marking its first physical European event after a three-year hiatus. Over 8,000 cosmetics and personal care professionals flocked to Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, filling the halls for this much sought-after opportunity to discover, test and try the latest ingredient launches in person, while taking advantage of in-person networking and training opportunities.

Commenting on the return of the face-to-face event, Alexander Stusenvoll, Impag Germany's Sales & Marketing Manager, said: " We've been participating in in-cosmetics for many years and, after three years of video calls, we couldn't wait to meet people in person. We've had a strong turnout from French suppliers in particular, and it's great to see them again and other friendly faces. Being back "on stage" is excellent. The quality of the discussions and meetings was good, and we took the opportunity to present our new ideas and inspirations; let's hope this means we can continue with more in-depth discussions. We're very happy to be back. in-cosmetics is a social reunion event, which is a very important part that you completely miss with video calls." 

Innovation takes center stage

With over 800 exhibitors present, innovation was the order of the day throughout the three days, with leading ingredient suppliers taking the opportunity to announce a host of new products. This not only demonstrated the industry's ongoing interest in new product development, but also the reason why in-cosmetics Global is recognized as a hotbed of ingredient innovation.

Among the exhibitors announcing their latest launches, Gattefossé revealed its new active ingredient of plant origin, Solastemis. Designed to offer brands, particularly dermo-cosmetics, a powerful active ingredient to protect the skin against UV rays, it meets the growing needs of consumers concerned about the health of their skin. At the same time, Symrise presented its latest cutting-edge innovation in modern product protection in the form of its green Hydrolite 8 - the first high-quality, pure caprylyl glycol, 100% of organic origin, launched on the cosmetics market.

Elsewhere at the show, Clariant Natural Ingredients presented Prenizen, a new natural active that helps combat stress-induced hair loss, improve hair vitality and density, and restore hair and scalp well-being. For its part, Vantage Personal Care presented a brand-new formulation platform aimed at providing formulators with a broad combination of highly traceable, sustainable and high-impact ingredients - highly relevant to conscious consumers.

The other exhibitor, Dow, also unveiled five new technologies in addition to its ECOllaboration Concepts collection, to meet growing consumer demand for sustainable and inclusive solutions. Among the new product announcements, four covered skin and hair applications, designed to showcase Dow's innovative new bio-based ingredients and eight pioneering formulations. It also introduced a series of six new flagship commercial products, including MaizeCare Clarity Polymer - a unique corn-based ingredient for formulating crystal-clear hair styling formulations; DOWSIL 979 emulsion for use in conditioners, leave-in formats and shampoos; and EcoSmooth Rice Husk Cometic Powder, an upcycled white silica powder designed to be added to a wide range of common skin care, color cosmetics and hair care formulation types.

Commenting on the importance of ingredient innovation, Sandra Sato, Dow's Global Segment Leader Sensory, said: " At Dow, the evolution of our portfolio never stops - bringing more sustainable and inclusive personal care ingredients that match the latest trends is a key priority for our local and global teams." 

" Our brand-new ECOllaboration Concepts collection illustrates this approach like never before, bringing together eight never-before-seen formulations that showcase recent and new launches, while retaining a minimum of 90 % of naturally-derived ingredients in each formulation. The expansion of our portfolio aims to empower customers worldwide to create personal care solutions that offer not only differentiated performance, but also ingredients that are safe for people and the planet." 

A sustainable future for the next beauty revolution

With a focus on sustainability, this year's in-cosmetics Global show demonstrated the steps the beauty and personal care sector is taking to reduce its impact on the environment through ingredient choice and formulation methods. While sustainability has long been a priority for the sector, this year's show highlighted the tangible progress being made by brands and ingredient suppliers. The Sustainability Corner, sponsored by AAK, returned to offer attendees an insight into the latest advances and achievements in sustainable personal care.

During a visit to the Sustainability Corner at in-cosmetics Global, Helene Villecroze, Cco Design Manager, Chanel Parfums Beauté, said: " As environmental concerns increase, it's better for consumers to have another perspective on sustainability and a view on ingredients. The Sustainability Corner offers a summary of the best products exhibitors are showcasing, giving examples and offering more sustainable ideas." 

Another participant, Agatha Bernedot, Product Development Manager at Fresh, added: " The Sustainability Corner has made me aware of good sustainability solutions, which I intend to use to challenge our formulation development team. This is a tricky area, and it's difficult to satisfy the consumer while being natural and sustainable." 

Other interactive products drew crowds throughout the three-day event, including the latest raw ingredients on the market in the innovation zone, sponsored by Ashland; new and invigorating sensations in the sensory bar, sponsored by IMCD; and innovative pigments and technologies in the make-up bar, sponsored by Lubrizol Life Science.

Florence L'Alloret, innovation project manager at L'Oréal, said of these product areas: " in-cosmetics Global's interactive features are a great way to get an overview of the latest innovations on a wide range of topics. I'm particularly interested in researching ingredients from nature, and I was able to find a lot of interest." 

New BSB innovation award for Adenosilane, Exsymol's latest silanol

By
The editorial staff
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At InCosmetics Paris, Exsymol launched the latest addition to its Silanols technology, Adenosilane. This active ingredient, derived from the combination of biofunctional silicon core and adenosine, promises a flawless complexion by making pores invisible (-75 % visible pores). 

This active ingredient was tested on an innovative scientific model, with the identification of a new marker Magp-1, a glycoprotein that optimizes the network of fibers around the pore: these groundbreaking scientific results were recognized at the last IFSCC in Cancùn, with a place in the top 10 poster.

Adenosilane was also included in the short list of the 10 most innovative active ingredients. at the latest InCosmetics show.

Finally, the active ingredient won the first BSB innovation prize in the anti-aging category.

Special edition by Luxe Pack - Activities and highlights of the sustainable packaging exhibition

By
The editorial staff
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On May 31st and June 1st, the third edition of Edition Spéciale by Luxe Pack will open its doors at the Carreau du Temple in Paris. This unique event brings together all eco-designed packaging solutions in a single venue.

The event will welcome 65 exhibitors selected for their know-how and expertise in ECODESIGNING SUSTAINABLE PACKAGINGS, and will feature a program entirely built around brands committed to sustainable development.
Once again this year, the show confirms the balance between exhibitors and strong content, with the presence of indisputable experts in sustainability and circularity. The event aims to unite brands that are considering the challenge of eco-design: they will be able to find the inspiration to get involved and the keys to grasping this challenge, just like the leading brands in the field: they will come to discuss the latest innovations that are really making a difference. In addition to the plenary conferences, PITCHS START-UP sessions will give the floor to young companies who have decided to draw inspiration from the living world or reinvent existing materials to help brands reduce their environmental impact on a daily basis.

PITCHS PARTY, innovative materials

They will have 10 minutes to convince you:

NOTPLA
To say goodbye to plastic, start-up creates seaweed-based packaging
Biodegradable in four to six weeks, this revolutionary new type of packaging consists of dried seaweed ground into powder, which is then transformed into a fluid and dried.
ICTYOS
A Lyon-based start-up that combines the traditional know-how of a French tannery with an eco-responsible approach, transforming fish skins from the food industry into top-quality marine leathers. Its ultimate ambition is to support major leather goods brands "who are asking themselves questions about new materials".
SERICYNE
The fiber of dreams, born of nature.
Creating additive silk, 100% natural and eco-responsible: this has been Sericyne's challenge since its creation. The company, specialized in the manufacture of silk from the Cévennes National Park, is multiplying its innovations with the aim of becoming a major player in the French silk industry.
MALAKIO
Design objects made from oyster shells! Malakio is a young Breton company specializing in the sustainable creation and valorization of mollusc shells from human consumption.
ORGANOID TECHNOLOGIES
Thanks to its unrivalled technical and manual skills, Organoid is able to impose nature on our interiors: a variety of natural, untreated and local materials are used for an authentic, sustainable design at 100%.
STUDIO SAMUEL TOMATIS
A designer juggling biodesign and a semi-industrial approach, Samuel Tomatis turns the proliferation of green algae into an opportunity that he transforms into multiple materials, flexible and rigid, 100 % natural, without glue or additives.
EMBELIUM
A new "Made in France" solution offering packaging made from mycelium-bonded fibers of agricultural origin. Embelium is a 100% plant-based, compostable material grown in south-west France.
ARROSIA
Combining nature and innovation to design natural, recyclable 100% materials.
Ecopin, a 100% bio-sourced resin made from maritime pine gum, from a production method based on a sustainable economy and social ties.
HOUBLY
Houbly offers innovative, aesthetic materials and objects for the packaging sector. The materials developed by Houbly are bio-sourced from brewers' grains (from beer production) and cocoa pods (from chocolate production), and help to reduce the environmental impact of products.
The possibilities are varied: we play with textures, colors and design to create unique objects.

Through a dedicated Materials for the senses and sensations "During the 2 days of the show, discover these natural, biosourced, augmented and recycled materials, some of which surely represent the future of the reconciliation between luxury and sustainable development.

Personalized coaching with Citeo

Special Edition by Luxe Pack, is also a show on a human scale, where visitors leave with advice tailored to their specific needs. For the second year running, a team of experts from Citeo will be on hand during the show to answer visitors' questions on sorting, reuse, recycling and eco-design of luxury packaging.

From assessment to innovation, Citeo will offer genuine personalized advice to each brand, to help them make the right choices at every stage of the eco-design process, and find high-performance environmental solutions.

ArteFacts by Johe Bruneau

While the term "artefact" is commonly used in archaeology to designate ancestral discoveries, it is to speak to us of our times that artist and designer Johé Bruneau revalorizes materials at the end of their life. Drawing his inspiration from various historical and scientific facts, he invites us to step back and take a fresh look at our times.

Art & Facts: art and facts. By making it a point of honor to work exclusively with recycled materials, Johé Bruneau seeks to bring out new aesthetics.

It's in this interest in reconciling form and content that he works with brands with strong values such as Ruinart, Picture Organic Clothing, Greet Hotel... while also putting his know-how at the service of his customers.

Johé Bruneau is a French artist and designer, and ambassador for the global Precious Plastic movement: a collective that shares open-source technologies to help set up plastic waste recycling workshops. In this capacity, he leads a number of field actions in France and abroad.

Exhibitor / Brand feedback" sessions

Because nothing speaks louder than examples and actions, manufacturer/brand pairs will be brought together to present concrete examples of products already on the market or under development on the following themes:

  • Design and recycling: with Edelmann, Kurz and Grandel
  • Reuse: with Cosfibel and Chanel
  • New materials: with Ahlstrom-Munksjö and Naos
  • Recycling: with Van Genechten Packaging x Courvoisier and Heinz x Lancôme

Not forgetting a case study with the Mu Cooperative and LVMH on the subject of "Responsible purchasing: are you really ready?" and a session on the "Perfumery revolution" with Pascale Brousse and Gerald Martines.

Green Award in partnership with Infinity Global

During the show, visitors will be invited to vote for their favorite product on Tuesday May 31. The exhibitor who wins the most votes will be awarded a Green Awardpresented by Infinity Global.

Paris Packaging Week is added to the list of events eligible for government support for new French exhibitors 

By
Kristel Milet
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French SMEs exhibiting for the first time at the 2022 or 2023 editions will be eligible for assistance of up to 50% of the cost of their stand, as part of public aid to the events sector.
Easyfairs announces that it has won a court case to add Paris Packaging Week to the list of events for which the French government will grant first-time French exhibitors aid towards the cost of their stand.
The decree was updated yesterday (May 16), adding the June 2022 and January 2023 editions of Paris Packaging Week to the list of events included in the program, which is designed to help reboot the French events industry and the global economy after the Covid period. 
Paris Packaging Week had initially been omitted from the plan, which applies to events with over 500 exhibitors; but a legal challenge by Easyfairs to amend the law led to the event being added to the legal text yesterday.
Under this program, French SMEs that did not exhibit at the last Paris Packaging Week will be able to claim 50% of the cost of their stand from the government. 

In practice, this means that for the June 2022 edition, support is open to companies who did not exhibit at the January 2020 edition, including those who have already booked their stand. For the January 2023 edition, assistance is open to companies that did not exhibit at the June 2022 edition. SMEs are defined as companies with sales of less than €50 million and fewer than 250 employees. Under the scheme, companies can apply for up to 50% of the cost of their stand, with a ceiling per company of €12,500 and a ceiling per event of €1.3 million. According to the government, a total budget of 96.3 million 

euros has been allocated to this initiative. Assistance is allocated on a first-come, first-served basis, and it is the responsibility of the exhibitor to submit any application to the program.

Josh Brooks, Director of Paris Packaging Week, said: "We're delighted to have won this challenge to change the law and support the community of French SMEs exhibiting at our event.

"Although we are an international event, we know that many of our visitors come to the event looking for French suppliers and the "Made in France" label for their packaging. We hope that the addition of Paris Packaging Week to this government scheme will help stimulate the activity of a wider community of French suppliers and bring more innovation to the packaging market."

Full program details are available at : https://les-aides.fr/aide/ZYVv3w/cci-france/aide-visant-a-favoriser-l-attractivite-des-principaux-salons-foires.html

Charismo Dropper - An elixir of beauty in every drop

By
The editorial staff
-

Quadpack's Charismo Dropper is the ideal solution for controlled application

Application control and efficiency in a recyclable bottle.

Charismo Droppers from Quadpack, a global manufacturer and supplier of beauty packaging, provide an optimal packaging solution for formulas that require precise dosing, while reducing the risk of skin contact and product contamination.

Available in 10 and 30 ml versions, Charismo Droppers are made of glass, a material that can be recycled indefinitely and can be easily separated from its pipette thanks to its screw neck. Both bottles are ideal for low viscosity formulas such as serums, oils, essences and light emulsions. The 10 ml version is ideal for eye and lip care, as well as samples and travel sizes. The 30 ml bottle is a classic package for standard skin care and makeup products.

The Charismo Droppers are part of the Charismo range, which also offers 50ml and 100ml perfume bottles, an ideal addition for brands that want to diversify their product family. The square design gives the packaging a modern and professional touch and its smooth surface allows for many decoration possibilities.

Fair trade and environmental issues: L'Occitane is committed

By
editocom
-

Within the framework of the Fair Trade fortnight, L'Occitane en Provence confirms its position in favor of an ethical economic model and commits to accompany all its iconic ingredient producers in their fair trade certification process. Sustainable and structuring, this certification is an essential prerequisite to meet the ambitious objective that L'Occitane has set for itself: to increase the resilience of all in the face of future climatic and social impacts.

L'Occitane and shea butter, a successful model of a fair trade industry

Since its beginnings, L'Occitane has chosen an ethical and sustainable approach: to protect nature and support the people who take care of it. This pioneering approach began in 1980, when the brand's founder met with women who produce Shea butter in Burkina Faso. The foundations of a fair and sustainable partnership were immediately established: the brand buys directly from women's cooperatives, from whom it purchases a processed product with high added value.

In 2009, obtaining the Ecocert Fair Trade certification, according to the international Fair for Life standard, will recognize the value of this partnership established on multi-year contracts, the implementation of pre-financing and the guarantee of a fair purchase price. For L'Occitane, it is the recognition of an exceptional collaboration participating in the preservation of traditional know-how and the improvement of living conditions for these communities of women.

On the solid foundation of this fair trade certification, L'Occitane is launching the Resist program (resilience, ecology, strengthening, independence, structuring and training) in 2018. "We have helped more than 10,000 women to preserve the shea trees of which they are the guardians, to modernize and limit the environmental impacts of their butter production processes and, above all, to become less dependent on L'Occitane's orders by developing their portfolio of activities and clients.says Justine Humbert, sustainable channels manager. Symbolizing a policy of continuous development, the Resist program consolidates the foundations of a sustainable future for the shea industry. The "exemplary" nature of this supply chain was praised by the United Nations Development Program (UNDP) in 2013 and 2019.

Fair trade and agroecology, a sustainable goal

Building on its experience with shea butter, the L'Occitane brand is now committed to supporting all of its producers of iconic ingredients in Provence and Corsica, so that they can obtain fair trade certification by 2025. Among the sectors concerned are almond, cade wood, immortelle, lavender, rose and verbena. "This is an extremely structuring approach for securing our supplies. The recent health and political crises we have experienced have proven the need for multi-year contracts and the vital value of lasting partnerships.explains Justine Humbert. And this is and will be even more the case with the environmental challenges of our time. For producers, fair trade ensures the sustainability of their operations and allows them to invest in the future. "Fair trade is part of the solution, it offers everyone a much better resilience in an unstable environment."

For L'Occitane, there is no agro-ecological transition without economic equity: fair trade establishes the prerequisites for the ecological transition. In order to support this certification process while accompanying its producers in their necessary agro-ecological transition, L'Occitane has decided to participate in the creation of the Agroecology and Fair Trade association in 2021, bringing together some fifteen partner farms. 

Its objectives are multiple: to enable its members to obtain fair trade certification by providing them with the necessary associative framework, to gain access to the fair trade development fund once certification has been obtained, and to pool learning and share knowledge in agroecology. In particular, the association benefits from the support of agricultural engineers from the Biodiversity and Sustainable Ingredients department and external experts to deploy experiments in agroforestry or soil cover. " While producers are on the front line of climate change, they are also part of the solution. It is our responsibility to implement commercial partnerships but also technical, financial and human support that will enable them to initiate this ecological transition. We must share the risks inherent in these changes in practices.according to Justine Humbert. She concludes: "Promoting equity, inclusion and regenerative agriculture is not philanthropy, it is the only possible response of our companies to today's challenges. It's also the only possible path as citizens, as parents, to provide a bright future for our children."

Verpack Group invests in digital printing 

By
Kristel Milet
-

Since its first acquisitions, the Verpack Group has based its growth on extending its range of services. Historically recognized for its excellence in offset printing for boxes and cases, the company has added a digital printing activity concentrated at its new Tours site. The latter has just commissioned an HP Indigo 15 k HD press. This equipment meets the needs of brands for small and medium-sized packaging runs. It will also be able to handle delayed personalization projects that are more difficult to manage with traditional printing.

High value-added service

Originally, the PLV 37 workshop in Touraine offered printers a top-of-the-range service in screen printing, laminating, hot stamping, embossing, gluing, etc. With this investment, it is set to become a complementary site to the group's cases and boxes activity, particularly for short runs or multi-reference printing. 

A state-of-the-art machine

The HP Indigo 15 k HD Press is HP's latest technical platform for the next 5 years. The manufacturer anticipates upgrades and supports each of its customers, from getting started to ramping up and customizing the machine as production progresses.

This new-generation machine features an HD laser head. This guarantees the high level of finesse required by luxury codes. Its quality is equivalent to that of offset, if not superior, especially for images (close to photo quality). It produces a fine screen for a flat rendering identical to offset spot colors.

Croda presents "Purposeful Beauty" - A new sustainable identity for the cosmetics market

By
The editorial staff
-

Croda International Plc, which creates, manufactures and sells specialty chemicals, has announced the launch of its new sustainability identity for cosmetics, "Purposeful Beauty". Created to focus Croda's beauty sustainability efforts and projects on a distinct message, the identity will also serve to reinforce its leading position as a provider of sustainable solutions.

By using social listening tools and other market research to understand the
the needs of consumers when discussing sustainability and cosmetics, Croda has developed its new Purposeful Beauty identity to align itself with the values of consumers.
consumers. The identity was created with the intention of resonating with beauty brands and consumers, while meeting Croda's corporate objective of Intelligent Science to Improve Lives. The aim is to ensure that Croda Beauty Care's specific objectives coincide with the needs of sustainability-oriented customers and consumers.
As part of Purposeful Beauty, Croda will be publishing various communications over the coming weeks to highlight its sustainability efforts in the cosmetics sector. Customers can expect to learn more about how Croda Beauty Care's sustainability goals affect their own practices, gain knowledge on various sustainability topics, and hear about Croda as a leader in sustainable beauty.
Cara Eaton, Marketing Director of Croda Personal Care, said: "Ne're delighted to announce our new sustainability identity, "Purposeful Beauty", and know that it will provide us with great opportunities to strengthen our leadership position in this field. This identity will facilitate the creation of unique sustainability campaigns to meet the evolving sustainable innovation needs of our customers worldwide.
With Purposeful Beauty, we're responding to the growing demand for new sustainable technologies in cosmetics, while reducing our impact on the environment around us. "
To celebrate the launch of Purposeful Beauty, Croda has pledged to donate over 3,000 trees through One Tree Planted during April and May to
Earth Day, a day dedicated to environmental protection.
According to earth.org, our planet is losing " around 10 million hectares of forest every year" (1).
Croda is continuing its efforts to achieve its goal of saving more land than it uses, while increasing the efficiency of agricultural land use and protecting biodiversity.

Croda recently announced, as part of its 2021 Sustainability Report, that it has saved 33,734 hectares of land per year more than its 2019 baseline year. The company says it is on track to meet its 2030 target of saving at least 200,000 hectares of land per year more than in 2019. The trees that are planted on behalf of the Purposeful Beauty initiative will help to reforest land damaged by forest fires, support biodiversity habitat and create a positive impact for generations to come.
With the "Be Actively Committed" sustainability identity for Sederma, Crodarom and Alban Muller, Croda maintains its industry-leading position as a supplier of sustainable ingredients. The creation of the "Purposeful Beauty" identity allows them to further demonstrate the commendable work they have done through their Beauty Care business in developing sustainable ingredients found in hair care, sun care, skin care and color cosmetics formulas worldwide, while showing how their leadership will shape the brands of tomorrow.
Croda strives to bring about positive change at every stage of its actions. Whether it's ensuring an ethical and transparent supply chain for sourcing materials, reducing carbon emissions and energy use in the manufacture of its ingredients, or producing innovative formulations that offer essential sun protection, Croda is committed to creating a more sustainable cosmetics industry.

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