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Perfumery: what does the future hold?

Some 100 experts from the perfume industry will meet in Paris, on the 1ster July 2022 to discuss the future of perfumery. 

Perfumers, designers, brands, distributors, retailers, raw material producers, packaging manufacturers, trainers, teachers and publicists will come together to discuss and define the future direction of the perfume and fragrance professions, in response to the challenges of a changing world.

Tous au Parfum! is the title of the event.

"In ancient Greece, "aller au parfum" meant "to get together to discuss". Today, in everyday French, "être au parfum" means "to be aware of". From the sharing of ideas, from a discussion forum, from face-to-face meetings, from openness, from dialogue, from accurate information, from collaboration, comes freedom, creativity, innovation and therefore development".say the organizers.

Under the presidency of perfumer Serge Lutens and an international honorary committee, tributes will be paid to eminent contemporary figures in perfumery, including Jean Kerléo, Jean Patou's nose and founder of the Osmothèque, and Pierre Dinand, creator of countless perfume bottles.

The program includes conferences, workshops, the New Luxury Awards ceremony and a gala dinner in support of Murano glassmakers.

Organized by the International Perfume Foundation and Marquise Invest, this third edition of the New Luxury Awards will reward perfumers and brands for their efforts to protect the environment and respect the new luxury code. 

"Our aim is to stimulate fragrance and packaging creativity by adopting the New Luxury Code as sustainability standards for authenticity, integrity and transparency. This competition also aims to create a link between new perfumers, new designers and perfumery or packaging students."explains Creezy Courtoy, President of the International Perfume Foundation.

The international partners of this event are : Beauty Cluster Barcelona, Paris Packaging Week and Autur City.

The event will take place on Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés, at the Hôtel de l'Industrie. The ideal place to host this first international meeting of the perfume trades and discover the future of the perfume industry, sustainable packaging, new extraction processes, know-how and smell the finest raw materials. 

For more information:
www.tousauparfum.com

Several awards for Lipoid Kosmetik ingredients

Lipoid Kosmetik, manufacturer of botanical extracts, active ingredients and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry, has been honored at the BSB Innovation Awards.

The award aims to promote innovation in cosmetics and natural products, rewarding raw materials, finished products, applied concepts and products with a positive environmental impact. Over the years, it has become a benchmark, with a growing number of entries from international brands every year.

At the 2022 edition, Lipoid Kosmetik was awarded first prize in the natural products/raw materials category in the "Recipients" sub-section for its Herbamilk Eco product line. The international jury declared: "The product capitalizes on the herbal milk trend and is convincing thanks to a good marketing concept.

In the "Collagen" sub-category, the jury awarded second prize to PhytoCollagen, a natural alternative to animal collagen developed by the company.

"We are very proud to once again be represented among the winners of this year's BSB Innovation Award, as it demonstrates our continued success in developing new and innovative raw materials."says Lipoid Kosmetik.

PhytoCollagen also won Silver in the in-cosmetics Global Green Ingredient Award 2022.

The in-cosmetics Global Award is one of the most prestigious awards in the global cosmetics industry, with over 180 entries in three categories. The Green Ingredient Award is given to ingredients that make a significant environmental or social difference in the field of sustainability, combined with a convincing concept and excellent clinical data. PhytoCollagen was selected from over 60 entries from international companies.

Hannes Moeller appointed Managing Director of Seppic

A subsidiary of Air Liquide Healthcare, Seppic has been designing, producing and distributing a wide range of specialty ingredients for cosmetic, nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, veterinary and industrial products for over 75 years. Seppic combines multiple areas of expertise in polymers, surfactants and emulsion technologies, active ingredients, biology, immunology, formulation, green chemistry, extraction and biotechnologies.

Hannes Moeller, who trained as an engineer and holds a degree in biotechnology, has gained international experience and held management positions within the Air Liquide Group since 2008, first as Distribution Director, then as Industrial Director, Merchant Market Food & Pharma for Central and Western Europe.

Hannes Moeller's latest experience, as R&D Program Director for the Air Liquide Group, will reinforce Seppic's dynamic research and innovation program, designed to support profitable, sustainable growth through responsible innovation. These are priorities that Seppic places at the heart of its vision and corporate strategy.

Hannes Moeller took up his position as Managing Director of seppic on April 1, 2022.

Esepac and ESP Student Challenge sponsored by Estée Lauder Companies: the winners are known

Easyfairs Oriex, organizer of Paris Packaging Weekin partnership with Esepac (European School of Packaging) and ESP (School of Perfume), organized the traditional competition between students of the two schools and unveiled the projects of this 6th edition.

On the theme of the 2021 competition "How to reinvent unique, luxurious and sustainable consumer experiences for the luxury fragrance market", students from both schools were able to work on very specific briefs at the end of the year.

This year, the challenge was sponsored by Marc Lechanoine, Global Senior Vice President Creative Design & Packaging Innovation - The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. 

The projects will be presented by the students on stage in the PCD conference room and on the booth of the two schools at the Paris Packaging Week on June 29 and 30, 2022 in Paris Porte de Versailles.

  • Project Perfume seals made visible 

Four solid perfumes chosen by each person, the applicator and a pouch are offered. The whole is grouped in a beautiful wooden box as well as the perfume containers. The perfume can be visible or not, the scented wax can be used as a light tattoo with a Japanese word and specific to the ethics of the brand. The boxes can be stacked or not. The idea is to retranscribe the Asian culture through the mode of use. 

  • Smart-Perfume Project, "What if your smartphone became your perfume?"

Smart-Perfume is a "nomadic" perfume device that allows consumers to carry their perfume around with them at all times as it is attached to their smartphone. The perfume is contained in a refillable 15 ml aluminum bottle that slips into a leather pouch magnetized to the back of a smartphone. The pouch is fully customizable according to your desires. The bottle is refillable both in store and at home thanks to a connected wooden base that allows you to recharge both your phone and your bottle of perfume.

  • VIP Perfume Room Project 

The concept lies in a mysterious room giving the consumer a whole new experience in the creation of a perfume. It all starts with obtaining a key that will allow access to a secret room leading to the unique creation of the perfume in terms of fragrances and the personalization of the bottle's packaging. The key to the creation room is used as an applicator for the perfume by immersing part of it in the bottle. After this first experience, the consumer will have the opportunity to make his bottle a real jewel. They will be able to regularly come and refill their bottle in the store. Each time he will proceed to this refill operation, he will obtain a jewel called "Charms" to insert on his perfume case. This concept is part of a respectful and sustainable approach for the environment, notably by using recyclable and recycled materials for the bottle and its accessories. With this, the use of a perennial product with unlimited customization to reflect the consumer's desires.

  • Ouréa Project

The concept, Ouréa, was inspired by gua sha stones and the sensations that massages provide while being scented. The students created an applicator that allows the stone to turn on itself, simulating this massage sensation. From an ergonomic point of view, the three curved sides of the cap are designed to fit the shape of the fingers, thus offering ease of application to the user. Aesthetically, the multi-faceted glass bottle is reminiscent of the shape of a precious stone and, depending on the different angles of view, provides an interesting visual effect, thus meeting the codes of the luxury world. 

  • Very Instant Perfume Project 

Very Instant Perfume is divided into three parts: 
- The packaging of the perfume, a flask of small capacity with a 3D visual inside equipped with a roll-on. This flask is made of plastic and gold/silver metals,
- Fountains in stores. Rotating, they allow you to choose your perfume. They are composed of glass columns,
- The commandable limousine to recharge with perfume and enjoy a luxurious experience.

The bottle can be bought in store (nomadic format) with its leather pouch to protect it and always carry it with you. This 15 ml bottle can be refilled at any time of the day thanks to the limousine and these rotating fountains. 

Wood and glass, a combination of sustainable beauty

Italian cosmetics brand OphirMilano has chosen international beauty packaging manufacturer and supplier Quadpack and Biofarma Group to develop the packaging and formula for its new sustainable skincare range. The brand has opted for the Woodacity solo screw cap and Regula Glass jar for its collection, which includes anti-aging cream, mattifying gel and facial scrub. All formulas feature natural, effective ingredients that meet the brand's commitment to sustainable beauty. 

"The quality of our ingredients is a value for us, but also a responsibility. explains Sara Lualdi, Marketing Director at OphirMilano. "Our commitment to a more sustainable future begins with the rigorous selection of natural ingredients and eco-friendly, recyclable or reusable packaging." she adds. 

"As a cosmetics, dietary supplements and medical devices CDMO, Biofarma Group believes it is its responsibility to protect and defend the environment by following the principles of sustainability and recyclability during product development. We are proud to be able to serve brands like OphirMilano, who see sustainability as a plus and a social responsibility." says Ignacio Iturralde, Business Development Manager for Cosmetics at Biofarma.

The Woodacity solo screw cap used in this packaging is single-material. It has no plastic components and is PEFC-certified, guaranteeing the sustainable source of raw materials. The Regula Glass jar is a recyclable product that can also be transformed thanks to its refined aesthetics.

"The Regula Glass jar with the PEFC-certified Woodacity screw cap can be perfectly reused as a sprouting jar, jewelry box, spice box, piggy bank... We want to give our customers the opportunity not only to recycle packaging, but also to reuse it creatively." explains Sara Lualdi.

Solid cosmetics: growth in a changing market

Consumption habits were strongly impacted by the pandemic. The hygiene-beauty market has not been spared, with a decline of -22.4 % versus 2019 on the occasion of the first containment and -2.6 % on the occasion of the second containment across all distribution channels, according to the press.

This sector was no longer supported by specialized channels, all of which were forced to close. At the same time, consumers were returning to the basics, abandoning high value-added products such as make-up and perfumes. Soaps, on the other hand, sold very well in the health context.

The hygiene-beauty market has also declined in specialized organic networks in 2021 compared to the previous year.

The solids sector has nonetheless fared well, with growth in all solid forms in the hygiene aisle: + 3 market share points over two years (2019-2021). Solid shampoos alone gained 2.3 market share points vs. 2019, reaching 21.3 market share points. Deodorants (stick, powder or solid) gained 2.1 market share points in 2021 vs. 2019. The various forms of toothpaste (solid, powder, lozenges) gained 1.7 points from 2019 to 2021*.

Some 13.4 million French people bought solid cosmetics in 2020, more than a quarter of all adults. According to an OpinionWay study for Alkemics, 43 % of French people find that hygiene-beauty products are generally over-packaged, according to the trade press. And it's true that the bathroom's impact in terms of bottles is considerable: according to Belgian company Wash Wash Cousin, a family of four consumes an average of 30 bottles of shampoo, 30 bottles of shower gel, 30 tubes of toothpaste and 30 deodorants a year. This is why consumers who are sensitive to sustainable consumption are turning to solid versions out of conviction, with their many advantages: zero waste, practicality, economic gain...

From ancestral recipes to innovative formulations 

Solid soaps have been around for a long time, with the emblematic Marseille and Aleppo soaps, but manufacturers are constantly striving to develop varied, high-quality formulas. Shape, scent, abundance of foam... Every consumer can find the qualities he or she is looking for, thanks to an ever-expanding range.

The more recent solid shampoo is gaining legitimacy. While it left many people skeptical in its early days, the multiplication of the offer and the consumer experience has led to a positive evolution in its acceptance within households.

As for solid toothpastes, they are emerging in different forms: lozenges, powder, solid stick... A playful and innovative side that is increasingly appealing.

The benefits of solid cosmetics

Solid cosmetics combine several undeniable advantages:

  • More concentrated, without water, they are effective;
  • Responding to consumers' ecological motivations, they eliminate waste: no more bottles to throw away!
  • Another important point is the economic factor - one solid shampoo replaces about three bottles of liquid shampoo;
  • They are practical for travelling - no problem on planes with the limitation of liquid products;
  • Their formula is natural - no water, no preservatives!
  • Their minimalist concept - a single product can often be used for several purposes - frees up bathroom drawers and toiletry bags!

Committed brands

A pioneer in the solids sector, Lamazuna has been reducing household waste since 2010 by offering zero-waste alternatives and smart accessories. All hair types have their own solid shampoo: oily, dry, color-treated, sensitive scalp... Soaps, shaving loaves, deodorants, shea butter and make-up removers complete the range.

The Green Emporium is the latest creation from Lamazuna founder Laetitia Van de Walle. Her new version of solid shampoos is now available exclusively in supermarkets and hypermarkets. Her aim is to limit as far as possible the plastic waste that suffocates the oceans! The Green Emporium has joined forces with Surfrider Foundation Europe. Comme Avant is the story of a couple who look for eco-friendly products when their child is born, taking an interest in the composition of soaps, among other things. One thing led to another, and the family business grew to offer several variations of soap, a deodorant powder, a solid cream, a solid make-up remover, washing powder, dishwasher powder... as well as cotton accessories. Their range has recently been extended to include linen and cotton clothing.

Endro means "nature" or "environment" in Breton. For the two founders, Marion and Boris, originally from Lannion in the Côtes-d'Armor region of Brittany, this word takes on its full meaning. Initially offering four types of handcrafted deodorant, the brand rapidly expanded thanks to the success of its Ulule campaign. Today, in addition to deodorants, the range includes solid shampoos, paste toothpastes, face and body creams, and more. The little glass jar with the wooden spatula is now her trademark!

A specialist in cold-saponified soap since 2009, Gaiia offers a wide range of soaps: superfatted soaps, Marseille soap (olive, olive-coconut or olive-coconut and hemp-based), Aleppo soap, baby soap, superfatted soap with antiviral action, etc. Toothpastes and solid shampoos are also part of the range.

Powder's powders of botanical ingredients, packaged in attractive recycled cardboard boxes, naturally beautify hair. Inspired by Ayurvedic traditions, these powders are available either pure (marshmallow, neutral henna, Moroccan rhassoul, green clay, neem, sidr...), or already blended to offer the very best in hair masks (repairing, sublimating, detoxifying, "no poo"). Pure powders have several uses (dry shampoo, skin mask, etc.). For each, the site offers appropriate recipes.

Perlucine's idea is to make the most of the white oyster shells harvested along Brittany's coastline, and turn them into attractive cosmetics. Oyster shells, rich in trace elements and mineral salts, remineralize skin and hair. Shower, shampoo, deodorant, facial cleanser... The powder products are mixed with a little water. Its shampoo powder was awarded the Trophée d'Argent Natexpo 2021.

Belgian company Wash Wash Cousin believes that the time for action is now. With its solid products for face, body and hair, the company is working towards zero waste in the home and aims to make its products accessible to as many people as possible. Pleasure, practicality and efficiency are its leitmotifs.

Smart accessories 

To support consumers in their zero-waste transition, Lamazuna has developed practical, adapted accessories. Its organizer keeps solid cosmetics dry while differentiating them. Thanks to its two-sided illustrated grids, you can easily identify your hair, body or face product. No more risk of getting it wrong! Easy to use, it can be stacked, placed or hung. Eco-designed, it comes with a lifetime guarantee.

J'aime mes dents won the Natexpo 2021 Silver Trophy in the Home and Personal Products and Services category for its Magnetic Soap Holder, which lets you keep your solid soap dry in the shower by attaching it to a wall with a suction cup. It helps maximize the life of solid soaps and shampoos. An accessory that's fast becoming a must-have!

Natexpo welcomes these brands, which have been committed to waste reduction since their creation, to its next edition, from September 18 to 20, 2022 at Eurexpo Lyon.

* Sources: Agence BIO, BioAnalytics, INC, biolineaires.com

TNT Global Manufacturing supports the launch of Dries Van Noten's fragrance collection

Belgian designer Dries Van Noten launches his first beauty line. TNT Global Manufacturing supports the launch of the fragrance collection.

The cover is made from a single piece of galvanized zamak with an oxidized effect, matched with a plastic insert and a zamak collar with the same finish. 

TNT Global Manufacturing has also developed three aluminum shells with plastic inserts, each decorated with a red varnish, a heat transfer pattern (HTL) and a raw aluminum stamping. Each shell is unique and ages at its own pace.

The bottles for the entire collection are refillable and made from recycled materials such as aluminum and glass, while the wood comes from sustainably managed forests. Concocted by ten different perfumers, the scents are developed at 85 % from ingredients of natural origin.

A beauty elixir in every drop

Quadpack's Charismo Dropper bottle allows controlled application.

Application control and efficiency in a recyclable bottle. Quadpack's Charismo Droppers offer a packaging solution for formulas requiring precise dosage, while reducing the risk of skin contact and product contamination.

Available in 10 and 30 ml versions, Charismo Droppers are made of glass, a material that can be recycled indefinitely, and can be easily separated from the pipette thanks to its screw neck. Both bottles are suitable for low-viscosity formulas, such as serums, oils, essences and light emulsions. The 10 ml version targets eye and lip care, as well as samples and travel sizes. The 30-ml bottle is a classic packaging for standard skincare and make-up products.

Charismo Droppers are part of the Charismo range, which also includes 50ml and 100ml perfume bottles, a perfect complement for brands wishing to diversify their product family. The square design gives the packaging a modern, professional touch, and its smooth surface allows for a wide range of decoration possibilities.

Albéa Tubes and L'Oréal join forces for a new advance in responsible packaging

Garnier's latest product innovation, "No-Rinse Conditioner", based on "Green Sciences", combines Albéa's cardboard tube with the two-in-one EcoFusionTop opening and closing system to protect a 98 % naturally derived formula.
This conditioner saves up to 100 liters of water per tube and reduces the carbon footprint, both in terms of packaging and ingredients.
"Our goal was to provide consumers with a sustainable product that supports a responsible lifestyle and new habits, explains Aurélie Weinling, Garnier's scientific director and head of sustainable development. "The combination of the formula, cardboard-based packaging and single-component opening and closing system allows us to reduce the total carbon footprint by 92% compared to a traditional 200ml conditioner." .

"We are proud to have been part of this new advance in responsible packaging. says Caroline Hughes, marketing manager for Albea Tubes. "By reducing the amount of plastic used in the tube and cap as well as water consumption through its formula, this product is the best example of reduced environmental impact. This new collaboration is a perfect illustration of what the future of sustainable packaging and products holds."

The EcoFusion Top two-in-one solution reduces weight by more than 80 % compared to standard head+cap solutions. The system is made of HDPE to ensure mono-materiality and recyclability. EcoFusionTop is available with different skirt options, such as the best-selling Greenleaf for laminated pipes and Thin-Wall technology for extruded pipes.

Focus on well-being!

At AMI Ingredients, a French distributor of cosmetic and food ingredients, 2022 will remain anchored in a "Happy mood"! 

After an initial series of sparkling, colorful formulas presented at Cosmet'Agora, AMI Ingredients explored a whole new facet of happiness at in-Cosmetics: well-being! "It's like a desire to simply feel good, to take care of yourself by offering yourself a timeless interlude!the company says.

Cocooning textures (comforting body balm), an enveloping sensory experience (light silk cream), surprising galenics (solid cleansing care): AMI Ingredients aims to transport its customers into a bubble of softness and pleasure!

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