Carita Paris chose Cosmogen's eco-designed spatula made from a single piece of r-PET, dyed deep black throughout. Its streamlined shape enables a dab of the pink tourmaline-based formula to be removed in a hygienic way, following the brand's advice.
Cosmogen offers tailor-made eco-designed accessories, whose life cycle is analyzed by in-house software, to help brands make an informed decision to offer a product that is both expert, safe and ecological.
While many cosmetic packages benefit from recyclable solutions (tubes, glass and plastic bottles, cardboard boxes), others have no existing recyclable options on the market. In order to support the actors concerned in this approach, Citeo (a company with a mission created by companies in the consumer goods and distribution sector to reduce the environmental impact of their packaging and paper) and its subsidiary Adelphe launched a call for sectoral projects in early 2022 in order to find concrete solutions to better eco-design packaging in the beauty and cosmetics sector.
Through this new call for projects, Citeo and Adelphe wish to study the technical, environmental and economic conditions for changing the design of household packaging in the beauty and cosmetics sector. The selected projects aim to improve the recyclability of packaging currently made of non-recyclable plastics, in order to move towards plastic resins or other materials with a recycling channel. The projects may also include other eco-design actions such as lightweighting or reuse, provided that recyclability is maintained or improved. In the long term, this work should help manufacturers develop new and innovative solutions, from R&D to prototyping, to industrialization and marketing of packaging.
The expected duration of the projects is between 12 and 18 months. Citeo and Adelphe are providing 50 % of funding. In addition to the evolution of packaging, Citeo and Adelphe will provide their expertise to the winners to ensure that the options studied will not have an impact on the other packaging flows coming out of the sorting center so as not to degrade their quality.
Plastic bottles with pump There is no easily deployable solution to date to make PET bottles with a pump recyclable. PE or PP bottles with a pump can be recycled, with areas for improvement depending on the type of pump used. This type of packaging is therefore a priority area of work.
- The Neo Pump project, by PRP Creation, aims to develop pumps for care, make-up and hygiene products that are reusable, monomaterial (PE or PP), recyclable and produced in France by removing the metal elements present in the pumps available today.
- The Matrix project, by Elidose, intends to evaluate the relevance of developing a single-material cylindrical flexible packaging with dual functionality: that can be used as a single-use, using less material than a standard, reclosable tube, or as a refill in a glass or plastic pump bottle.
The samples The sector develops numerous samples for the general public. Many of them are available in non-recyclable packaging, and improving recyclability is a major challenge for the sector today. In addition, the Climate and Resilience Act is pushing to reinvent the way products are tested.
- The Cosmépack project, by Lactips, aims to replace the currently non-recyclable samples with samples that can be recycled in the paper/cardboard industry, using a natural polymer applied by complexing on paper/cardboard. Its dissolution in water makes it possible to recycle paper/cardboard packaging, as well as magazines, in this sector without disturbing the processes.
- Project of mini perfume spray ready for recycling by Elidose and Karza: supported by a consortium of two packaging manufacturers, this project aims to develop a new format of perfume sample in monomaterial (PE or PP) to join an existing recycling channel. Composed of a high barrier flexible packaging with a pump, it allows to reduce the amount of material used. The pump technology is already mastered, the challenge of the project is to miniaturize and integrate it into a dedicated packaging line.
The leading make-up packaging Mascara, make-up cases, lipsticks... cosmetics packaging is bound to evolve and be integrated into existing or new recycling channels.
- The RECYMakeUp project, by Albéa aims to replace materials such as ABS or SAN by PP or PET, for mascara/lip gloss packaging, lipsticks or powder cases. The objective is twofold: to work on the design of technical solutions (prototypes) compatible with the current French recycling channels and to share best practices with the entire profession (technical constraints, obstacles to development or channel requirements), in order to advance the sector.
Films about perfume boxes Two options are to be considered: the elimination of these films by making the box itself carry their function, or the development of recyclable PE or paper tubes. It is on this last axis that the winning project will work in the coming months.
- Project of transparent/translucent biosourced and recyclable paper, by Thibierge & Comar: its objective is to offer luxury brands an alternative solution to plastic films for the over-wrapping of perfume and cosmetic cases and packaging sleeves, while preserving their properties: inviolability, quality, security and hygiene. The proposed packaging is composed of transparent/translucent paper and a regenerated cellulose film, allowing the paper to be adapted to the specific constraints of the packaging. The developed substrate will be 100% biosourced and recyclable in the paper industry.
These winners were chosen by a jury of packaging and cosmetics experts.
Learn more about each project:
https://bo.citeo.com/sites/default/files/2022-04/AAP_ecoconception_cosm%C3%A9tique_laur%C3%A9ats_20220407.pdf
BDK Parfums, an independent perfume house located in the Palais Royal district of Paris, offers singular fragrances inspired by characters, movements, allures and moments. What these creations have in common is a universe centered around words and storytelling, halfway between imaginary tales and reality.
Two new fragrances were launched on April 5: eau de parfum Villa Neroli and extrait de parfum Gris Charnel.
For the third opus in the Collection Azur, David Benedek, founder of BDK Parfums, invites you to set sail and discover Capri, the Italian island in the Bay of Naples. Renowned for its beauty, unspoiled nature and charming villas, this island delights the hearts of travelers who venture there. Alexandra Carlin, creator of Velvet Tonka in the Matières Collection, shared her memories of Capri, the inspiration for Villa Néroli.
"I imagined a garden of sour orange trees in Capri (...). The acidic freshness and citrus impression in the top note are essentially due to neroli essence combined with Nerolione, a very powerful molecule with a clean scent, often used to boost orange blossom notes. Neroli is quickly replaced by orange blossom absolute, which is denser, fuller-bodied and fleshier. Its honeyed, straw-like facets echo the Bulgarian rose absolute in the heart. Then comes a comforting impression of balms and resins, thanks to Madagascar vanilla absolute and cistus labdanum, to illustrate the moistness of the air, to which is added a trio of ambox, moss and cashmeran to retranscribe the salty minerality of Faraglioni".explains Alexandra Carlin.
A woody amber fragrance launched in 2019, Gris Charnel has quickly become one of BDK Parfums' bestsellers. Its light and dark, chiaroscuro notes seduce as much as they oppose each other. Fiery cardamom contrasts with the power of black tea, iris defies cistus and tonka bean counters the sandalwood-vetiver duo. Gris Charnel eau de parfum is now available as a perfume extract, to satisfy customers looking for a deeper version.
"What I didn't want to do was simply create a more concentrated version of the original Gris Charnel. Instead, I wanted to focus on its spicy, woody facets. So, with Mathilde Bijaoui, we decided to extend the fragrance's head and base. Cardamom, already present in the eau de parfum, is magnified. Madagascar bourbon vetiver and creamy Indian sandalwood take on greater volume. Finally, the base notes of smoky Madagascar vanilla and Indonesian patchouli add even more roundness. For me, Gris Charnel Extrait magnifies the Parisian sensuality already present in Gris Charnel.says David Benedek.
"Through this second chapter, I wanted to magnify the sensuality of Gris Charnel's original signature, sculpt a trail, be even more magnetic and captivating as desired. While my first idea was to play with vanilla, its different qualities and its animalic side, it was patchouli that finally turned everything on its head, giving the power we were looking for with David. Its duo with sandalwood makes the fragrance more mysterious, more textured. With vanilla, it also forms a powerful accord that gives incredible diffusion.emphasizes Mathilde Bijaoui, Mane perfumer.
Nivea Men uses ethanol obtained from recycled carbon dioxide in its new moisturizing cream.
This moisturizing cream - Nivea Men Climate Care - contains a total of 14 % of ethanol obtained by alternative methods. In addition, the formula is 100 % free of microplastics, silicones, mineral oils and PEG/PEG derivatives. This men's skin care product is climate-neutral* and manufactured using electricity from 100 % renewable sources. Its formula is 99 % biodegradable and its packaging is fully recyclable.
Carbon Capture and Utilization (CCU) is a multi-stage CO2 recycling technology. Firstly, carbon dioxide is collected from places such as industrial smokestacks and directed into a bioreactor, where it is then fermented and converted into cosmetic ethanol.
"This new men's skincare product featuring innovative CO2 recycling technology represents an important milestone for us, says Jean-François Pascal, Vice President Sustainable Development at Beiersdorf. The name 'Climate Care' is very apt, as our commitment to sustainable development goes far beyond our skincare products and places climate action at the heart of our approach."
"Our ambition is to offer consumers the best possible product quality at all times. To achieve this, we combine our deep scientific expertise with the latest technologies such as this type of artificial photosynthesis, says Gitta Neufang, Corporate Senior Vice President Global R&D at Beiersdorf. I'm delighted that our product developers have launched this innovative men's skincare concept with our partners, and that they have been the first in our sector to bring it to market. This is an impressive milestone that will no doubt be followed by further developments in this direction."
Beiersdorf has set itself one of the most ambitious carbon reduction targets in the industry. The company aims to achieve a Group-wide absolute reduction of 30 % in Scope 1 and 2 carbon emissions and 10 % in Scope 3 emissions by 2025 (using 2018 as a baseline). These targets have been recognized by the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) and are in line with scientific demands to limit global warming to 1.5°C.
Nivea Men Climate Care moisturizer will be launched on the German market in early June 2022, starting with a limited edition in pharmacies and online retailers.
*Offsetting of remaining CO2 emissions through certified climate projects.
The WEG France has rewarded Adrien Geiger, Brand Director of L'Occitane en Provence and CSO of the L'Occitane group, with an Achiever Award in the "CSR Commitment" category.
Since arriving at L'Occitane in 2014, joining the family entrepreneurial adventure, Adrien Geiger has been keen to promote innovation and commitments to more sustainable growth that benefits nature and society. Spearheading regenerative agriculture, he energetically supports projects to protect natural ecosystems, alongside the group's 10,000 employees and 15,000 partner producers, but also with players committed to biodiversity, convinced that the cosmetics industry has its part to play for a better world.
On April 12, on the occasion of the 9ᵉ edition of the WEG Achiever Awards, an evening entirely dedicated to beauty talent that brings together over 200 industry professionals every year, Adrien Geiger was awarded the "CSR Commitment" prize. From corporate careers to entrepreneurial daring, from leaders to young nuggets, the Achiever Awards recognize the dynamism, creativity, innovation and vision of the beauty players who drive the industry forward.
An international, women's and solidarity-based network, particularly active in France, the CEW initiates a network of expert and benevolent networking and enrichment, a space for sharing experiences and a humanist think-tank, towards a future of beauty that is innovative, responsible and connected to changes in society.
At In-Cosmetics Global, held in Paris from April 5 to 7, 2022, Biolie presented five new ingredients developed with its patented enzymatic extraction ecoprocess:
- Pyr'O (Green Ingredient Award finalist): natural organic pear water active to replace water in cosmetic formulations, with antioxidant properties equivalent to vitamin C.
- Pep'O: natural organic zucchini water with prebiotic properties to replace water in cosmetic formulations.
- Cumb'O: natural organic cucumber water active to replace water in cosmetic product formulation, with prebiotic properties.
- Mirabelle almond oil: the first certified organic vegetable oil for skin and hair care.
- Preservation booster: a natural preservation booster for a natural formulation.
These five new ingredients are the result of upcycling to enhance the value of local by-products.
Available in three PCR levels (30 %, 60 % and 100 %), Baralan's new closures offer an environmentally-friendly alternative to traditional polypropylene components.
Baralan, a specialist in primary packaging for the cosmetics and beauty industries, will now offer durable components with varying levels of PCR (post-consumer recycled). The range of closures produced at the company's Italian plant, traditionally made from polypropylene, will be available in three PCR levels: a basic level of 30 %, an intermediate level of 60 % and a full level of 100 %.
The aim: to promote a circular economy for the entire cosmetics packaging industry. The different levels of PCR on offer will enable brands to maintain their desired packaging aesthetics while meeting growing consumer demand for sustainable products. Even customers seeking high-end aesthetics will be able to incorporate a certain amount of PCR into their packaging solutions.
Note: PCR material can be used with existing molds and equipment, enabling brands to switch to more durable products without having to invest in specialized equipment.
"This launch is extremely exciting for us from a sustainability perspective. It demonstrates our commitment to developing innovative, environmentally-friendly packaging solutions for cosmetics and beauty products that meet the high quality standards our customers and end-users expect, while reducing our impact on the environment, said Maurizio Ficcadenti, Global R&D Director. As our PCR closures mark the beginning of a new era for cosmetics and beauty products, we decided to invest in research and development."
The Phytocontrol group, laboratories specializing in food and environmental safety, announces the acquisition of All Phyto.
Located in the Drôme region and founded in 1998, All Phyto, formerly LPPAM, Laboratoire provençal de plantes aromatiques et médicinales, ensures quality control of medicinal plants, spices, aromatics and ingredients of natural origin used in the manufacture of agri-food, cosmetic, nutraceutical and phytotherapeutic products. It also develops physico-chemical analysis methods; over 500 are currently available to study the identity, purity, composition, authenticity and origin of plant-based products. The laboratory holds "good manufacturing practice" pharmaceutical establishment approval issued by ANSM, is accredited by the Laboratoires section of Cofrac, and is ISO 14001 and ISO17025 certified.
By drawing on All Phyto's unique know-how in the field of phytotherapy, the Phytocontrol group is adding a high value-added offering to its range of services, in response to growing customer demand.
The acquisition of All Phyto brings growth opportunities and enables Phytocontrol to open up a fourth market within its Biopharma division. Created in 2016, it currently serves 3 industries: crop protection (Agrosciences), cosmetics (Cosmetic) and chemicals (Chemicals & Materials). The acquisition of All Phyto gives it a new dynamic.
"We are proud to join All Phyto, a company whose activities complement those of Phytocontrol. The use of plants is booming, and we wanted to be able to meet the expectations of consumers, who are increasingly attentive to their health and in search of natural products whose origin and composition they want to know".comments Mikaël Bresson, President and founder of Phytocontrol.
With the increasing use of plants leading to fraud, particularly due to the disappearance of certain species, it is essential to guarantee their authenticity. Edmond Bourny, President of All Phyto, will be speaking at the 2nd edition of the international Food Risk symposium organized by Phytocontrol on June 8 and 9, on this theme and that of food safety.
Photo: Edmond Bourny, President of All Phyto and Mikaël Bresson, President of Phytocontrol © Phytocontrol
Juliette, an eco-responsible skincare and hygiene brand, has announced the acquisition of Pimpant, a natural alternative to traditional household products, at 100 %. This affinity and strategic alliance will enable Juliette to accelerate its growth in the home market, just a few months after its launch, thanks to a range of proven products in line with its values.
Since December 2020, Juliette has been developing natural and healthy products for the home. After having launched a first range of dilutable powder products for the bathroom (JU, in November 2021), she acquires Pimpant and will add 20 references on juliette.com. An operation that is based above all, according to the company, on common values and the quality of products developed by the brand of linen care, dish care and natural home care since 2018.
"After the bathroom, our objective was to turn to the other rooms of the house, starting with the laundry room and the kitchen. Our meeting with Amandine and Pierre de Pimpant was decisive, especially because our approaches are very similar. A primary concern for the planet, more transparency for the consumer, the promotion of French know-how and a desire to do things in a positive way... these are the principles/leitmotivs that drive us on a daily basis and that we wish to make last through Juliette, for future generations.says Karline Hamain, co-founder of Juliette.
Juliette's entire catalog will continue to be developed in France, with Normandy as the home base from where all orders will be shipped. Juliette also plans to increase Pimpant's activity by a factor of 5 compared to 2021 and to achieve a turnover of 5 million euros by 2022.
For its new lip oil, the Clarins brand entrusted Arcade Beauty with the development of a sample capable of translating the exact experience of the product sold.
The colors pop, the shine is extreme, the lips are full and happy... Clarins Lip Comfort Oil is applied to the lips with a soft and precise gesture.
Arcade Beauty took up the challenge of integrating the applicator of the sales product in its sample in order to offer the consumer the same make-up experience. "We developed this sample to preserve the unique sensoriality of our Lip ComfortOil with a soft and cocooning applicator" explain Clarins teams.
This is a thermoformed replica of the product sold in a printed cardboard insert. Simply break off the top tip to release the foam applicator and apply the color.
The custom-designed sample is manufactured and packaged by one of the group's French sites.
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