Expanscience, an independent, family-owned French company with a mission and B Corp certification, is launching Calybiota Bio, a new COSMOS-certified active ingredient. Furthermore, committed to responsible supply chains, Expanscience has provided financial and technical support to the Chinese cooperative that harvests Schisandra berries in Sichuan (Sweetone Bio active ingredient) for FairWild certification. This is the first time a cooperative has obtained this certification in China. Expanscience had also obtained the Fair for Life label for its Macaline and Skinhairgium Bio actives, sourced from the maca chain in Peru, (2019) and for its organic illipe butter sourced in Indonesia (2021).

Calybiota Bio, a natural 100% active ingredient that rebalances the skin's microbiota

An extract rich in polysaccharides from the calyxes of the Red Kapok tree, sourced in Africa, Calybiota Bio is COSMOS-certified by Ecocert. Particularly recommended in intimate care and hygiene cosmetics, a clinical study* has demonstrated its role in protecting vaginal flora. The study revealed a prebiotic effect on this flora, a reduction in inflammation and feelings of discomfort, hydration of the intimate area and improved sexual comfort. Calybiota Bio is also recommended for acne-prone, atopic/eczematous or hypersensitive skin, as well as for deodorant formulas. This active ingredient helps protect and maintain the balance of the skin's microbiota.

FairWild, a certification guaranteeing the sustainability of wild resources and respect for local communities

In line with its "impACT" CSR approach, Expanscience has also supported FairWild certification for its wild Schisandra berry harvesting chain, from which the Sweetone Bio anti-imperfection active ingredient is extracted.
One of the main aims of this certification is to guarantee the sustainability of the management of non-cultivated resources. Schisandra sphenanthera is a wild climbing plant native to central and western China, and also found in Korea and Japan.
It is referenced in traditional Chinese medicine. As a common resource for cosmetic ingredients, non-cultivated plants must be carefully managed to ensure compliance with rigorous, reasoned practices that respect the resource and its habitat. This management ensures that the quantities harvested are in line with the quantities available, and that harvesting practices guarantee the renewal and preservation of the resource and its environment.
The first pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetic laboratory and the first supplier of cosmetic ingredients to be B Corp certified in 2018, Expanscience has been a member of the Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT) since 2011. Now a "company with a mission", the company is committed to working for the common good through its raison d'être "helping individuals shape their well-being" and has set itself a series of social and environmental objectives such as contributing "to achieving global climate goals" and "protecting and regenerating biodiversity". Supporting partners in the certification of their supply chains is part of this approach.

* Clinical study conducted with Calybiota. Bio formulated at 1,25% in a cleansing gel and a cream and used in combination every day for 28 days on 4 groups of women (post-vaginosis, post-mycosis, irritation and post-menopause).

Three years after the last in-cosmetics Global trade show in Paris, Gattefossé yesterday won the bronze award for best ingredient in the active cosmetics category for its Solastemis innovation. The culmination of several years' research by our experts in sourcing, plant chemistry, cell biology and clinical evaluation.
Solastemis is a powerful active ingredient that protects the skin against UV-induced aging and meets the growing needs of consumers concerned about their skin's health. It acts at the heart of the epidermal machinery, protecting keratinocyte DNA from UVA-induced damage and stimulating DNA's natural repair capacity. In so doing, it preserves epidermal stem cells and ensures long-lasting skin health.

The active molecules in Solastemis are extracted from Sechium edule (also known as chayote or christophine), a fruit grown and harvested by hand in accordance with zero-waste principles on Reunion Island.

"This is excellent news, and we're delighted to win this award. Solastemis is the result of several years' research and collaboration between Gattefossé researchers, Lyon Civil Hospitals (HCL), Grenoble University and the French Alternative Energies and Atomic Energy Commission (CEA). It's a highly comprehensive active ingredient that combats photoaging, notably by protecting our cellular DNA and stem cells. We are proud of our teams who have worked long and hard on this ingredient, and we thank the in-cosmetics jury for its decision!" explains Paula Lennon, Group Cosmetics Director.

At a time when sustainability and performance of ingredients are increasingly sought after, Seppic launches Emogreen HP 40, the result of several years of research and eco-friendly innovation. The company also joins the homemade trend with Cosmetic Mixology.

Emogreen HP 40: a new generation emollient

Emogreen HP 40 is a new ingredient that expands the Emogreen range of ultra pure emollients of natural origin. Obtained by a patented process, Emogreen HP 40 is a non-polar and slightly viscous emollient. It is a new generation of emollients that offers an effective and long-lasting alternative to heavy silicones, mineral oils and other synthetic emollients. 100% plant-based and inherently biodegradable, Emogreen HP 40 offers an alternative to these controversial ingredients with a more virtuous carbon footprint.

A multifunctional ingredient, Emogreen HP 40 has film-forming properties with an enveloping and supple feel without a sticky effect on the skin. These coveted properties improve the effectiveness of all types of cosmetic applications: skin care, makeup, sun care, etc.

Particularly adapted to hair applications, Emogreen HP 40 offers the same sensory profile and performance as the silicones commonly used in formulas (Dimethicone/Dimethiconol, Cyclopentasiloxane/Dimethiconol) without their disadvantages such as the greasy and sticky feel. Manufacturers and consumers of this type of care product will appreciate the thermal protection* provided by Emogreen HP 40, which preserves the integrity of the keratin despite repeated thermal stress and keeps the hair healthy. Seppic's research work has highlighted other performances such as ease of combing, anti-frizz effect and volume control, thanks to the product's substantive effect on the hair fiber which smoothes the hair scales.

A multifunctional emollient that is very easy to use in formulation, Emogreen HP 40 has excellent compatibility with cosmetic ingredients and can be introduced in cold manufacturing. With this new launch, Seppic consolidates its position as a leading and innovative supplier of sustainable and eco-friendly ingredients in the demanding hair care market.

Jennifer Fryscher, emollient product manager, says, "Emogreen HP 40 meets the challenge of meeting both the performance and eco-friendly formulation requirements of a hair industry that needs to create ever more effective custom care."

A duo of robust and sensorial formulas in the trend of homemade cosmetics 

The homemade trend has seen a resurgence of interest with the pandemic, especially in cosmetics with a wellness dimension. Consumers have taken to making their own beauty recipes to take care of their skin and hair. Today, consumers are looking for transparency and simplicity, and some are reassured to know that they are consuming products that are adapted and personalized to their needs and desires.

In response, Seppic is launching a duo of Cosmetic Mixology** formulas. The marketing and innovation teams have pooled their expertise to come up with a "Blend it yourself" concept that is safe and fun for consumers. With these two frames, Seppic offers a simplified and safer customization solution for consumers who are not always aware of the risks and constraints of home cosmetic formulation.

Cosmetic Mixology includes two formulas with different sensory characteristics:

• a cream frame to customize: a robust emulsion base combining softness and smoothness. The stability and robustness of the emulsion are ensured by a Montanov 202 emulsifier and two polymers, solagum AX & Sepimax Zen, to reinforce the formula's resistance to electrolyte-rich actives. This minimalist formula also contains Emogreen L15, an emollient for sensory comfort and Aquaxyl, an essential sugar-based moisturizing agent.
• A gel-cream frame to customize: a solid pebble to rehydrate forming a fresh gel-cream with a light touch. The Solagum Tara & Sepimax Zen polymer couple forms a fresh, watery gel-cream and reinforces the formula's resistance to electrolyte-rich actives. Three additional ingredients were added: Emogreen L19, an emollient for sensory comfort, Sepifine BB, a texturizing agent to provide softness and Aquaxyl, an essential sugar-based moisturizing agent.

These two basic formulas can be customized with active ingredients that are easy to find at home to meet various applications (face care, hair care, body care). To ensure the robustness of the final formulas, the two frames were tested with ten active ingredients with different profiles (viscosity, pH, presence of electrolytes, solubility). Among them: lemon juice for a radiance face mask, coffee grounds for a body scrub and pomegranate vinegar for an all-in-one hair care.

In addition to responding to a current market trend, these two formulas have been designed taking into account the current needs of consumers for minimalist formulas and their requirements for high naturalness and safety for human health.

_{*Evaluation of the thermal protection of Emogreen HP 40 alone & in formulation by measuring the preservation of keratin by Xpolar technology (Kmax Innovative System) on healthy Caucasian hair after 50 heat treatments at 210°C.}

_{**Cosmetic mixology = Mixologie cosmétique}

in-cosmetics global marks the launch of Solastemis, a new plant-based active ingredient from Gattefossé. With this new ingredient, Gattefossé intends to offer brands, particularly dermocosmetics brands, a powerful active ingredient to protect the skin against UV rays, and respond to the growing needs of consumers concerned with preserving the health of their skin.

A physical barrier between the inside and outside of the body, the skin is one of the most reactive organs to external aggression, particularly UV radiation. By penetrating deep into the DNA of skin cells, UV rays are responsible for structural and functional alterations to the skin's various layers.

A research program focused on the effects of UVA on epidermal stem cells

A few years ago, Gattefossé's skin biology team joined forces with a research group specializing in the study of genotoxic stress in order to understand the effects of UVA radiation on epidermal stem cells.

This collaboration has revealed a greater capacity of epidermal stem cells to fight UVA aggression (compared to their daughter cells), thanks to more efficient repair mechanisms. However, these stem cells remain sensitive to UVA-induced DNA damage and lose part of their self-renewal capacity, known as "stem potential", with long-term consequences for epidermal homeostasis.

Preserve cellular integrity against UVA rays

Gattefossé has developed Solastemis, a natural active ingredient to combat the effects of UVA rays.

This active ingredient acts at the heart of epidermal mechanics, protecting keratinocyte DNA from UVA rays and boosting the skin's natural DNA repair system. It preserves epidermal stem cells, ensuring good homeostasis for the skin's first line of defense.

It also provides a shield for the dermis, protecting key matrix proteins (collagen, elastin) from UVA-induced degradation.

"The primary strength of Solastemis is to offer biological protection against the undesirable effects of UVA on the epidermis. UVA rays are often associated with photoaging, but this is due to their ability to penetrate deeper into the dermis than UVB rays, and to degrade the extracellular matrix, says Boris Vogelgesang, R&D Manager, Cosmetic Active Ingredients. Yet the effects of UVA on the epidermis are undeniable. They contribute significantly to accelerated epidermal aging, notably by affecting the self-renewal capacity of epidermal stem cells, and thus their ability to continuously regenerate the epidermis by producing new cells. By reducing the intracellular oxidative stress caused by UVA irradiation and promoting natural repair mechanisms, Solastemis helps preserve keratinocyte DNA, and consequently their functionality. In addition, the active ingredient has also revealed dermis-preserving properties, offering overall photoprotection of the epidermis and dermis."

A healthier, more radiant complexion and reduced wrinkles

Tested on a panel of 33 Caucasian women aged 37 to 55, in a double-blind active vs. placebo study, Solastemis confirmed its ability to reduce symptoms associated with photoaging.

A significant reduction in crow's feet wrinkles and an overall improvement in skin smoothness and relief are observed. The complexion is beautified, more even, and radiates health.

Sustainable sourcing on Reunion Island

The active molecules in Solastemis are extracted from Sechium edule (also known as chayote or christophine), a fruit grown and harvested by hand according to zero-waste principles, in the heart of the impressive Salazie cirque on the island of La Réunion. Long-term relationships with local growers and harvesters guarantee Gattefossé perfect traceability and quality, from field to laboratory.

As part of its CSR program, Gatt'Up & Act, Gattefossé has undertaken various initiatives to ensure the financial stability and technical development of this sector (supply contract, equipment financing, etc.).

Extraction using NaDES (Natural Deep Eutectic Solvent) technology and a tailor-made manufacturing process (minimum number of steps and limited duration) result in an eco-designed ingredient with high biological performance. The ingredient has a natural origin content of 99.85% according to ISO 16128.

"Today, we're witnessing a real shift, from skin care to more global skin health care. The demand from consumers for health and protection-oriented cosmetics are increasing dramatically. UV protection is a central issue in this health theme, and photo-aging a constant concern. With Solastemis, Gattefossé pushes back the limits of photoprotection. This active ingredient has been developed with the aim of protecting cellular integrity against UVA radiation, by acting at the heart of our cells, at DNA level. This ingredient is the result of several years' research by our experts in natural product sourcing, plant chemistry, cell biology and clinical evaluation. They have combined their know-how to make the most of an exotic fruit, Sechium edule, and transformed it into a powerful active ingredient".says Laurie Canel, Product Marketing Manager - Active Cosmetics.

The 2022 Awards were unveiled yesterday at the in cosmetics show in Paris.

These awards celebrate the latest ingredient innovations that combine pioneering science and product features in a way that demonstrates substantial benefits to manufacturers and end users.

Ingredient companies large and small turned out in droves for this year's awards, with a record 180 entries in four categories: active ingredient, functional ingredient, green ingredient and the Rising Star award. 47 entries were shortlisted, and a panel of industry experts was tasked with selecting the winners, the full list of which is shown below.

Active ingredient

IFF - Lucas Meyer Cosmetics won the gold medal in the Innovation Zone Award for its Wastar Pink Berry. It is designed as an upcycled botanical extract rich in biflavonoids to soothe irritated scalps. By leveraging the pink berry byproducts left over after the extraction of IFF fragrance compounds, Wastar Pink Berry meets the upcycling trend as it combines sustainable sourcing in Madagascar and high efficacy while limiting its manufacturing impact on the environment.

Winning the silver award, DSM Nutritional Products Europe was recognized for its vitamin B12 cryst, while Gattefossé won bronze for its "new DNA guardian", Solastemis.

Functional ingredient

Lubrizol Life Science won gold for its PemuPur Start polymer. A unique, naturally derived polymer emulsifier offering excellent stabilization capabilities at a low level of use while providing a fresh, fast-breaking feel. At the same time, CFF GmbH & Co KG won the silver award for its natural and environmentally friendly raw material Sensocel, and Ashland won the bronze award for its biocellulose natrathix - a biodegradable rheology modifier of natural origin.

Green ingredient

The Green Ingredient Award, in partnership with Ecovia Intelligence, recognizes ingredients that make a proven significant environmental or social difference in the area of sustainability. Nafigate Corporation won the 2022 title for its Biopolymer Hydal PHA - polyhydroxybutyrate, a recycling ingredient and biopolymer. Based on green chemistry and zero waste manufacturing, this new functional ingredient is biocompatible, non-toxic and fully biodegradable. It forms the basis for new formulations as a polymeric matrix.

Also recognized in the green ingredients category, Mibelle Biochemistry won the silver award for its MelanoGray hair greying essence, sustainably obtained by upcycling the pulp of unique organic Chios mandarin peels. Lipoid Kosmetik AG won the bronze award for its PhytoCollagen - an all-natural, Cosmos-certified plant-based alternative to animal collagen with similar cosmetic benefits.

Rising star

The final award of the day, which recognizes first and second year exhibitors, saw Tagra Biotechnologies take home the coveted Rising Star Award. As a world-renowned producer of innovative microencapsulated active compounds, UV filters and pigments, the company's technology results in stable, effective and attractive formulations for cosmetic use. Its innovative microencapsulation technology allows customers to easily develop innovative formulations and products. It was recognized by judges for the range it offers, as well as for its innovation, convenience, number of sectors it can fit into and the solution orientation of its product range.

Sensient Beauty's aim is to provide products and expertise in multi-sensory beauty and personal care applications.

Sensient Technologies' cosmetics subsidiary, Sensient Cosmetic Technologies, suppliers of sensory, functional and active ingredients for the personal care market, has announced a rebranding to Sensient Beauty.

Since 2018, new beauty opportunities responding to new consumer interests have begun to emerge. Naturalness and safety attributes have come to the fore. Demand for hair care products and multi-sensory beauty experiences such as products with innovative textures has increased.

According to Mike Geraghty, President of Sensient Color, "the constant evolution of colors, textures and ingredients in the personal care market is a beautiful thing and fits perfectly with Sensient's strengths and innovation." "We continually assess market and consumer trends to develop products that meet preferences and needs. Opportunities are important."he adds.

Sensient's former brand was primarily focused on the color cosmetics segment of the beauty and personal care market in North America and Europe. It focused primarily on the end-makeup market, especially during the booming cosmetic years from 2013 to 2017, but also maintained an innovation channel for skin and hair care products with a strong impetus on naturalness and sustainability. In the northern Asia-Pacific region, Sensient is a highly regarded supplier of innovative skincare ingredients. Gaelle Frere, Managing Director of Sensient Beauty, states: "Asian skincare routines and textures are still coming to the U.S. and Europe. We decided it was time to deploy the knowledge we gained in Asia-Pacific on a global scale."