At In-Cosmetics Global, held in Paris from April 5 to 7, 2022, Biolie presented five new ingredients developed with its patented enzymatic extraction ecoprocess:

- Pyr'O (Green Ingredient Award finalist): natural organic pear water active to replace water in cosmetic formulations, with antioxidant properties equivalent to vitamin C.

- Pep'O: natural organic zucchini water with prebiotic properties to replace water in cosmetic formulations.

- Cumb'O: natural organic cucumber water active to replace water in cosmetic product formulation, with prebiotic properties.

- Mirabelle almond oil: the first certified organic vegetable oil for skin and hair care.

- Preservation booster: a natural preservation booster for a natural formulation.

These five new ingredients are the result of upcycling to enhance the value of local by-products. 

Expanscience, an independent, family-owned French company with a mission and B Corp certification, is launching Calybiota Bio, a new COSMOS-certified active ingredient. Furthermore, committed to responsible supply chains, Expanscience has provided financial and technical support to the Chinese cooperative that harvests Schisandra berries in Sichuan (Sweetone Bio active ingredient) for FairWild certification. This is the first time a cooperative has obtained this certification in China. Expanscience had also obtained the Fair for Life label for its Macaline and Skinhairgium Bio actives, sourced from the maca chain in Peru, (2019) and for its organic illipe butter sourced in Indonesia (2021).

Calybiota Bio, a natural 100% active ingredient that rebalances the skin's microbiota

An extract rich in polysaccharides from the calyxes of the Red Kapok tree, sourced in Africa, Calybiota Bio is COSMOS-certified by Ecocert. Particularly recommended in intimate care and hygiene cosmetics, a clinical study* has demonstrated its role in protecting vaginal flora. The study revealed a prebiotic effect on this flora, a reduction in inflammation and feelings of discomfort, hydration of the intimate area and improved sexual comfort. Calybiota Bio is also recommended for acne-prone, atopic/eczematous or hypersensitive skin, as well as for deodorant formulas. This active ingredient helps protect and maintain the balance of the skin's microbiota.

FairWild, a certification guaranteeing the sustainability of wild resources and respect for local communities

In line with its "impACT" CSR approach, Expanscience has also supported FairWild certification for its wild Schisandra berry harvesting chain, from which the Sweetone Bio anti-imperfection active ingredient is extracted.
One of the main aims of this certification is to guarantee the sustainability of the management of non-cultivated resources. Schisandra sphenanthera is a wild climbing plant native to central and western China, and also found in Korea and Japan.
It is referenced in traditional Chinese medicine. As a common resource for cosmetic ingredients, non-cultivated plants must be carefully managed to ensure compliance with rigorous, reasoned practices that respect the resource and its habitat. This management ensures that the quantities harvested are in line with the quantities available, and that harvesting practices guarantee the renewal and preservation of the resource and its environment.
The first pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetic laboratory and the first supplier of cosmetic ingredients to be B Corp certified in 2018, Expanscience has been a member of the Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT) since 2011. Now a "company with a mission", the company is committed to working for the common good through its raison d'être "helping individuals shape their well-being" and has set itself a series of social and environmental objectives such as contributing "to achieving global climate goals" and "protecting and regenerating biodiversity". Supporting partners in the certification of their supply chains is part of this approach.

* Clinical study conducted with Calybiota. Bio formulated at 1,25% in a cleansing gel and a cream and used in combination every day for 28 days on 4 groups of women (post-vaginosis, post-mycosis, irritation and post-menopause).

Three years after the last in-cosmetics Global trade show in Paris, Gattefossé yesterday won the bronze award for best ingredient in the active cosmetics category for its Solastemis innovation. The culmination of several years' research by our experts in sourcing, plant chemistry, cell biology and clinical evaluation.
Solastemis is a powerful active ingredient that protects the skin against UV-induced aging and meets the growing needs of consumers concerned about their skin's health. It acts at the heart of the epidermal machinery, protecting keratinocyte DNA from UVA-induced damage and stimulating DNA's natural repair capacity. In so doing, it preserves epidermal stem cells and ensures long-lasting skin health.

The active molecules in Solastemis are extracted from Sechium edule (also known as chayote or christophine), a fruit grown and harvested by hand in accordance with zero-waste principles on Reunion Island.

"This is excellent news, and we're delighted to win this award. Solastemis is the result of several years' research and collaboration between Gattefossé researchers, Lyon Civil Hospitals (HCL), Grenoble University and the French Alternative Energies and Atomic Energy Commission (CEA). It's a highly comprehensive active ingredient that combats photoaging, notably by protecting our cellular DNA and stem cells. We are proud of our teams who have worked long and hard on this ingredient, and we thank the in-cosmetics jury for its decision!" explains Paula Lennon, Group Cosmetics Director.

At a time when sustainability and performance of ingredients are increasingly sought after, Seppic launches Emogreen HP 40, the result of several years of research and eco-friendly innovation. The company also joins the homemade trend with Cosmetic Mixology.

Emogreen HP 40: a new generation emollient

Emogreen HP 40 is a new ingredient that expands the Emogreen range of ultra pure emollients of natural origin. Obtained by a patented process, Emogreen HP 40 is a non-polar and slightly viscous emollient. It is a new generation of emollients that offers an effective and long-lasting alternative to heavy silicones, mineral oils and other synthetic emollients. 100% plant-based and inherently biodegradable, Emogreen HP 40 offers an alternative to these controversial ingredients with a more virtuous carbon footprint.

A multifunctional ingredient, Emogreen HP 40 has film-forming properties with an enveloping and supple feel without a sticky effect on the skin. These coveted properties improve the effectiveness of all types of cosmetic applications: skin care, makeup, sun care, etc.

Particularly adapted to hair applications, Emogreen HP 40 offers the same sensory profile and performance as the silicones commonly used in formulas (Dimethicone/Dimethiconol, Cyclopentasiloxane/Dimethiconol) without their disadvantages such as the greasy and sticky feel. Manufacturers and consumers of this type of care product will appreciate the thermal protection* provided by Emogreen HP 40, which preserves the integrity of the keratin despite repeated thermal stress and keeps the hair healthy. Seppic's research work has highlighted other performances such as ease of combing, anti-frizz effect and volume control, thanks to the product's substantive effect on the hair fiber which smoothes the hair scales.

A multifunctional emollient that is very easy to use in formulation, Emogreen HP 40 has excellent compatibility with cosmetic ingredients and can be introduced in cold manufacturing. With this new launch, Seppic consolidates its position as a leading and innovative supplier of sustainable and eco-friendly ingredients in the demanding hair care market.

Jennifer Fryscher, emollient product manager, says, "Emogreen HP 40 meets the challenge of meeting both the performance and eco-friendly formulation requirements of a hair industry that needs to create ever more effective custom care."

A duo of robust and sensorial formulas in the trend of homemade cosmetics 

The homemade trend has seen a resurgence of interest with the pandemic, especially in cosmetics with a wellness dimension. Consumers have taken to making their own beauty recipes to take care of their skin and hair. Today, consumers are looking for transparency and simplicity, and some are reassured to know that they are consuming products that are adapted and personalized to their needs and desires.

In response, Seppic is launching a duo of Cosmetic Mixology** formulas. The marketing and innovation teams have pooled their expertise to come up with a "Blend it yourself" concept that is safe and fun for consumers. With these two frames, Seppic offers a simplified and safer customization solution for consumers who are not always aware of the risks and constraints of home cosmetic formulation.

Cosmetic Mixology includes two formulas with different sensory characteristics:

• a cream frame to customize: a robust emulsion base combining softness and smoothness. The stability and robustness of the emulsion are ensured by a Montanov 202 emulsifier and two polymers, solagum AX & Sepimax Zen, to reinforce the formula's resistance to electrolyte-rich actives. This minimalist formula also contains Emogreen L15, an emollient for sensory comfort and Aquaxyl, an essential sugar-based moisturizing agent.
• A gel-cream frame to customize: a solid pebble to rehydrate forming a fresh gel-cream with a light touch. The Solagum Tara & Sepimax Zen polymer couple forms a fresh, watery gel-cream and reinforces the formula's resistance to electrolyte-rich actives. Three additional ingredients were added: Emogreen L19, an emollient for sensory comfort, Sepifine BB, a texturizing agent to provide softness and Aquaxyl, an essential sugar-based moisturizing agent.

These two basic formulas can be customized with active ingredients that are easy to find at home to meet various applications (face care, hair care, body care). To ensure the robustness of the final formulas, the two frames were tested with ten active ingredients with different profiles (viscosity, pH, presence of electrolytes, solubility). Among them: lemon juice for a radiance face mask, coffee grounds for a body scrub and pomegranate vinegar for an all-in-one hair care.

In addition to responding to a current market trend, these two formulas have been designed taking into account the current needs of consumers for minimalist formulas and their requirements for high naturalness and safety for human health.

_{*Evaluation of the thermal protection of Emogreen HP 40 alone & in formulation by measuring the preservation of keratin by Xpolar technology (Kmax Innovative System) on healthy Caucasian hair after 50 heat treatments at 210°C.}

_{**Cosmetic mixology = Mixologie cosmétique}