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Expanscience launches a new active ingredient and announces FairWild certification for its Schisandra chain in China

Expanscience, an independent, family-owned French company with a mission and B Corp certification, launches Calybiota Bio, a new Cosmos-certified active ingredient. Furthermore, committed to responsible supply chains, Expanscience has provided financial and technical support to the Chinese cooperative that harvests Schisandra berries in Sichuan (Sweetone Bio active ingredient) for FairWild certification. This is the first time a cooperative has obtained this certification in China. Expanscience had also obtained the Fair for Life label for its Macaline and Skinhairgium Bio active ingredients, sourced from the maca chain in Peru, (2019) and for its organic illipe butter sourced in Indonesia (2021).

Calybiota Bio, a natural 100% active ingredient that rebalances the skin's microbiota

An extract rich in polysaccharides from the calyxes of the red Kapokier tree, sourced in Africa, Calybiota Bio is certified Cosmos by Ecocert.

Particularly recommended in intimate care and hygiene cosmetics, a clinical study* has demonstrated its role in protecting vaginal flora. The study revealed a prebiotic effect on this flora, a reduction in inflammation and discomfort, hydration of the intimate area and improved sexual comfort.

Calybiota Bio is also recommended for acne-prone, atopic/eczematous or hypersensitive skin, as well as for deodorant formulas. This active ingredient helps protect and maintain the balance of the skin's microbiota.

FairWild, a certification guaranteeing the sustainability of wild resources and respect for local communities

In line with its "impACT" CSR approach, Expanscience has also supported FairWild certification for its wild Schisandra berry harvesting chain, from which the Sweetone Bio anti-imperfection active ingredient is extracted.

One of the main aims of this certification is to guarantee the sustainability of the management of non-cultivated resources. Schisandra sphenanthera is a wild climbing plant native to central and western China, also found in Korea and Japan. It is referenced in traditional Chinese medicine.

As a common resource for cosmetic ingredients, non-cultivated plants must be carefully managed to ensure compliance with rigorous, reasoned practices that respect the resource and its habitat. This management ensures that the quantities harvested are in line with the quantities available, and that harvesting practices guarantee the renewal and preservation of the resource and its environment.

The first pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetic laboratory and the first supplier of cosmetic ingredients to be B Corp certified in 2018, Expanscience has been a member of the Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT) since 2011. Now a "company with a mission", the company is committed to working for the common good through its raison d'être "helping individuals shape their well-being" and has set itself a series of social and environmental objectives such as contributing "to achieving global climate goals" and "protecting and regenerating biodiversity". Supporting partners in the certification of their supply chains is part of this approach.

Expanscience in brief :

  • 4 activities: Dermo-Cosmetics, Rheumatology, Dermatology, Active Cosmetics
  • 2021 sales: €287.2m, including 74 % from international sales
  • 1098 employees and 14 subsidiaries
  • 3.2% of sales invested in research and development

About FairWild certification

The growing demand for wild plants - for food, cosmetics, wellness and medicines - can be detrimental to potentially vulnerable plant species. The FairWild standard and its certification system provide a global framework for the sustainable collection and fair trade of ingredients from wild plants. Companies participating in FairWild can make a positive contribution to the conservation and management of wild species and landscapes, and to the livelihoods of the rural communities that depend on them.
Read more : www.fairwild.org


* Clinical study conducted with Calybiota Bio formulated at 1,25% in a cleansing gel and cream and used in combination every day for 28 days on 4 groups of women (post-vaginosis, post-mycosis, irritation and post-menopause; n=48).

The underestimated effects of the sun on the skin

Today, sun protection is a real public health issue: every year, a large number of skin cancers are detected worldwide as a result of excessive exposure to the sun's rays. In addition, sun exposure is recognized as a factor in premature skin aging and other dermatological pathologies. To gain a better understanding of people's sun habits, La Roche-Posay and Ipsos have just carried out a large-scale epidemiological study involving 17,000 people in 17 countries.

The study was previewed in Boston in the "late breaking news" session of the AAD (American Academy of Dermatology) 2022 Annual Dermatology Meeting.

Bad habits and preconceived ideas die hard

Some 88 % of respondents do not systematically use protective measures when exposed to the sun, and 15 % never use sunscreen. Nearly half of respondents do not believe that sunscreens provide effective protection against skin cancer (50 %) and even sunburn (40 %).

This inadequate protection is largely due to preconceived ideas or a lack of knowledge about the sun's rays, according to which :

  • It would not be useful to protect oneself on cloudy days or during the winter. Thus, 77 % of respondents worldwide said they do not protect themselves from the sun all year round, but only on hot days and/or their vacations;
  • People who are already tanned would need less or no protection (according to 44 % of respondents);
  • It would not be essential to reapply sun protection. Only 26 % of respondents would apply it regularly, i.e. at least every two hours.

What's more, only 12 % of respondents in total, and 19 % of people with phototype 1 (very white, very sensitive skin, light hair and eyes), use all the protection they need when exposed to the sun. In addition to sunscreen, this includes: trying to stay in the shade (77 % of respondents), avoiding exposure between midday and 4pm (66 %), wearing sunglasses with UV filters (56 %), covering the head (55 %) or wearing protective clothing (44 %).

According to Pr Thierry Passeron, dermatologist in Nice, France: "This major international epidemiological study was essential to gain a better understanding of people's photoprotection habits. It demonstrates a real need for education, both in the general population and in so-called 'at-risk' populations, who, even if they protect themselves better, have limited knowledge of the risks of solar radiation. In particular, the La Roche-Posay study shows that 61% of respondents are unaware of the differences between UVA and UVB rays!

Insufficient sun protection reinforced by beauty standards and sun addiction

The return of sunny weather also signals the return of bad sun protection habits. These may have been encouraged by the numerous communications on the risks of vitamin D deficiency. In fact, 87 % of respondents claim that exposure to the sun enables them to synthesize vitamin D, and 82 % that sun exposure gives them energy.

Beauty standards are also to blame: 72 % of the world's population claim that tanned skin is attractive, 64 % that it gives the impression of good health, and 49 % that it's unthinkable to return from vacation without a tan.

A world population that often underestimates the importance of prevention

Although 88 % of respondents say they are aware that the sun can cause skin problems, and 81 % that it accelerates skin ageing, they are far from acting accordingly.

While self-monitoring of the skin enables early detection of any suspicious skin lesions, the general public often has limited knowledge in this area, and is often unaware of when to consult a dermatologist. What's more, 76 % of respondents said they don't regularly - if ever - consult a dermatologist to monitor their moles.

Lastly, 57 % of those questioned said they regretted not having protected themselves more from the sun in the past, but there are wide disparities:

  • Between men and women (49 % and 65 % respectively);
  • Between new and older generations (62 % of 18-24 year-olds, 65 % of 25-34 year-olds versus 47 % for over-60s);
  • Between at-risk profiles (with melanoma, pre-cancerous lesions, sun allergy or weakened immune system) and the rest of the population (79 % versus 54 %).

A growing public health issue

At a time when many scientists are warning of an increase in the number of cancers by 2050, bad habits persist. La Roche Posay believes that the world's population needs to be made aware of prevention tools, protection methods and the importance of early detection.

"As the No. 1 dermocosmetics brand recommended by dermatologists worldwide, it is our duty to raise public awareness of skin cancer prevention and, more broadly, of the harmful effects of the sun. For over 10 years, we have been conducting studies with scientists from all over the world, contributing to the training of professionals, and offering free screenings in over 30 countries worldwide. This global study proves that our awareness-raising work is far from over, and we will be pursuing our efforts to ensure that sun protection is recognized as a major public health issue".commented Laetitia Toupet, President of La Roche-Posay International.

[podcast] Luc Gabriel relaunches Cherigan

Luc Gabriel, already known for The Different Company, has taken over the Cherigan brand created in 1929. He has great ambitions for these artistic fragrances, mixing original creations with new proposals. With this brand, Luc Gabriel intends to share his discoveries. Listen to the full interview here and read part of it in issue 33 of the magazine. Industries Cosmétiques.

Why a video of a vintage seaplane? Listen to Luc Gabriel's answer...

A new tool to help consumers personalize their fragrance choices

To mark World Fragrance Day on March 21, the L'Oréal group and neurotechnology specialist Emotiv have announced a strategic beauty partnership to help consumers make precise, personalized choices about their fragrance desires. The partnership combines Emotiv's neurotechnology tool with L'Oréal's proprietary scents and algorithms.

"We are constantly developing personalized and innovative experiences for our consumers, explains Guive Balooch, Director of L'Oréal's Tech Incubator. The intersection of neurotechnology, artificial intelligence and science offers exciting prospects. Choosing a fragrance is a very complex science. This partnership promises innovation for the entire beauty industry, as it is truly the first time that consumers will have access at the point of sale to a cutting-edge experience using neuroscience to provide them with precise, personalized fragrance advice."

Created by the Tech Incubator from L'Oréal, luxury brand Yves Saint Laurent and a team of fragrance experts, in collaboration with Emotiv, this fragrance consulting experience links neurological responses to fragrance preferences through a multi-sensor headset based on EEG technology. The headset uses machine-learning algorithms to interpret the EEG, while consumers explore exclusive scent families, to enable fine-grained detection and analysis of behavior, preferences, stress and attention, in real context. This unique experience helps consumers determine which scents best respond to their emotions.

"Together with L'Oréal, we hope this partnership will offer unique insights into how consumers feel about fragrances, and the emotions that scents objectively trigger in them, says Tan Le, Managing Director of Emotiv. We're simplifying the decision-making process by linking emotion and scent through technology, like no one has ever done before. Founded on science and the power of data, this technological revolution will help consumers decipher which scents are best suited to their needs."

More than three quarters (77 %) of consumers want a fragrance that gives them emotions. In a blind test, L'Oréal also found that people associate different emotions and sensations, including joy and relaxation, with their olfactory preference. More than half of consumers aged 12 to 34 say they choose a fragrance according to their mood.

"There are hundreds of thousands of scents, and we know that it can be difficult for consumers to explore this vast number of options and choose the right fragrance for them, says Stephan Bezy, International General Manager of Yves Saint Laurent Beauté. Thanks to this immersive system, we've been able to offer 95 % users the right fragrance, customized to their expectations and desires - a much higher result than without this technology. This is a huge first step in this category. Once we know which scents bring joy, energy, or other emotions, we can go even further in personalizing fragrances - the potential is infinite."

The experience will be available worldwide in Yves Saint Laurent flagships in several countries by the end of the year and throughout 2023.

La Prairie Group announces the appointment of Philippe Lamy as new CEO, succeeding Patrick Rasquinet

La Prairie Group AG, the leading luxury skincare company owned by the Beiersdorf Group, has appointed Philippe Lamy as CEO, succeeding Patrick Rasquinet, who has led the luxury house since 2010.
Philippe Lamy will join La Prairie on April 2, 2022 and will lead the La Prairie Executive Committee, based at the company's headquarters in Zurich, Switzerland. Patrick Rasquinet will now focus on his broader role on the Board of Directors of Beiersdorf where he is responsible for the entire Pharmaceutical & Selective division (Eucerin, Hansaplast, La Prairie, Chantecaille).
Philippe Lamy joins La Prairie after 8 years at Loro Piana, the nearly 150-year-old Italian family-owned luxury fabric and apparel company that joined the LVMH group in 2014. He was previously CEO of Shang Xia, a Chinese luxury brand created and owned by Hermès, and before that spent more than 13 years at L'Oreal where he held several positions in the luxury and travel retail divisions in Asia Pacific and the Americas. Philippe Lamy is an expert in luxury retail, with experience in innovative start-ups as well as large established houses, and an international and multicultural background in all major markets. In his new role, Philippe Lamy will report directly to Patrick Rasquinet.
Patrick Rasquinet, member of the Beiersdorf Board of Directors, said: "We have found in Philippe a strong leader, a forward-thinking strategist and a luxury retail industry insider. He has all the credentials to take La Prairie forward in the coming years and help the company realize its potential to become the kind of legendary luxury house we envision. I am delighted to welcome him to the Beiersdorf Group and to leave La Prairie in his very capable hands. I look forward to working closely with him to make our vision a reality." .
Philippe Lamy, new CEO of La Prairie, added: "It is a great honor for me to take on this role at La Prairie and I am very excited about the opportunities ahead. Maison La Prairie is beautiful and the company has been steadily building its brand positioning over the past few years. I feel truly privileged to be a part of the next chapter of such a luxurious and leading house as La Prairie. It feels great to be back in the skincare industry after more than 10 years away. I can't wait to start working with Patrick and the executive committee as soon as possible."

Symrise strengthens its Fine Fragrance division

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Symrise has made a firm offer to acquire 100 % of R. Romani - Société Française d'Aromatiques (SFA Romani), a high-end perfume house. Symrise has also positioned itself to fully acquire Neroli Invest DL (Neroli Group). Both companies are based in the Grasse region of France. With these acquisitions, Symrise intends to strengthen its presence in fine fragrances in the south of France, as well as its competitiveness in the creation of fragrance compositions, and extend its presence in key countries in Europe, Africa and the Middle East. The combined annual sales of SFA Romani and the Neroli Group amount to over 40 million euros. The transactions are expected to close in the second quarter of 2022, subject to the approval of the respective governing bodies and consultation with the SSCs. The parties have agreed to keep the purchase price confidential. 

"These two acquisitions represent a further step forward for Symrise's Fine Fragrance business and are fully in line with our strategic objective of accelerating our growth in this area of activity." said Ricardo Omori, Global Senior Vice President Fine Fragrance at Symrise AG. "With these transactions, we increase our access to high-quality natural ingredients, broaden our customer base and strengthen our competitiveness through greater agility as well as a significantly expanded fine fragrance team in the historic cradle of perfumery in Europe, the Pays de Grasse." 
The combination of these two renowned players with Symrise's Fine Fragrance division offers unique opportunities for both customers and employees of SFA Romani and the Neroli Group. Symrise intends to become a strong player in the Grasse region, with a new growth platform including creation centers, sales and marketing teams, and perfume production capacities for the market. 
SFA Romani, founded in Grasse in 1963, is internationally renowned for its choice of the finest natural raw materials, its expertise in perfume creation and the quality of its compositions. 
In almost 60 years, the company has developed unrivalled expertise in high-end fragrance compositions. The company's strong reputation is based on excellent knowledge of its markets and proximity to its customers. SFA Romani operates a mixed development and production site in Saint-Cézaire, Pays de Grasse. Symrise would acquire SFA Romani from its current owners, the Romani-Caruso family, Keensight Capital and Sofipaca. 

"We are very proud of all that SFA Romani has achieved in 60 years as an independent company. We embody unrivalled expertise and quality in Grasse's high-end fragrance compounds. We are convinced that the company and our market will continue to grow.that will continue to prosper within the Symrise family," said Viviane and Charles Romani- Caruso, founders of SFA Romani. "Joining Symrise is a unique opportunity for SFA Romani to take our company to new heights. We complement each other very well, and both companies will benefit from each other to achieve our common goal of creating the successful fragrances of tomorrow". 

The Néroli group comprises Créations & Parfums and Floressence, both founded in the mid-1980s in Saint-Cézaire in the Grasse region. Floressence was acquired in 2017 and merged with Créations & Parfums in 2021. To build a strong position in natural fragrance ingredients, the Neroli Group has established long-term partnerships with local farmers for the sustainable cultivation of flowers in the Grasse region. Last November, Symrise had already announced a joint venture with Groupe Neroli. Now, the company has decided to acquire all the shares. 

"We are very pleased with the offer to join such an important group as Symrise. Neroli's customers and employees will be in very good hands, which is the most important thing for me, said Christian Dussoullier, CEO of the Neroli Group. 

BLH unveils its new identity that brings together the company's core values and future aspirations

BLH, a family-run business and distributor of aromatic raw materials, presents its new brand identity underpinned by a reinvented logo. BLH celebrates over 38 years of history and experience as a supplier of often iconic ingredients dedicated to perfumery, flavors and aromatherapy. The new logo embodies BLH's values of corporate social responsibility and its renewed commitment to sustainability processes, with the ultimate aim of always better meeting the demanding needs of its customers and partners.

The shades of white and green represent both the company's foundations and its two main areas of expertise. White embodies molecules, their green chemistry and renewable potential, while shades of green symbolize natural raw materials and the innovation they entail.

"Through our business as a distributor and our committed team, this new identity allows us to signify the evolution of the company and underline its mission to always meet the highest standards of agility but also sustainability, ethics and traceability."comments Nicolas Bécot, representative of BLH's Chairman.

While emphasizing the growth of its natural products portfolio, BLH remains committed to meeting the highest service levels for the ingredients it distributes.

Always transparent, BLH is committed to representing its partners by sharing its expertise and values.

Photo: Nicolas Bécot, representing the President of BLH

TechnicoFlor continues its commitment to the planet 

TechnicoFlor, French house of fragrance compositions, joins the collective 1 % For The Planetto benefit the Pure Ocean Foundation, through its NatFlor range,

TechnicoFlor is strongly committed to sustainable development, and has taken a number of steps to move towards a more responsible perfumery and preserve biodiversity: committed purchasing policy, favoring the sourcing of eco-responsible natural raw materials (BetterTomorrow); creation of 100 % natural ranges compliant with Cosmos Organic requirements by Ecocert (Parfums NatFlor); compositions with low environmental impact; elimination of pesticides from perfumery raw materials; tool for measuring the biodegradability of fragrances (BioD-Scent); or again, creation of an aromatic garden with endemic plants at its new head office in Allauch.

Today, the company has reached a new milestone. With its NatFlor range, TechnicoFlor joins the 1,000 or so companies in France that are members of the 1% For the Planetand is committed to donating 1 % of sales from this range to environmental causes. 

Through this commitment, TechnicoFlor has chosen to support Pure Ocean, whose mission is to support innovative projects contributing to the protection of marine biodiversity and fragile marine ecosystems. 

"We have decided to donate 1 % of sales generated by our NatFlor fragrances, our range of 100 % naturally-sourced perfumes, because it is the best illustration of what tomorrow's perfumery should be: natural and responsible".says Maxime Gransart, Assistant General Manager. 

Pure Ocean fosters exchanges between experts, companies and the general public to raise awareness of the situation of endangered marine ecosystems and highlight solutions to protect them. It's a cause particularly close to the heart of François-Patrick Sabater, founder and chairman of the TechnicoFlor group, and a great lover of the sea: "It's not just a beautiful foundation: it's a magnificent team that works tirelessly to protect the planet, and it fits perfectly with our values and our desire to leave a beautiful planet to future generations."

New biodegradable guar-based polymers for beauty care

The Solvay group extends its range of biodegradable ingredients with two guar-based functional polymers for eco-responsible hair and body care products.

Solvay, a global specialist in naturally derived beauty care polymers, completes its range of guar-based biodegradable solutions presented in December 2021, with two new polymers - a thickener and a conditioning agent - for beauty care. These new ingredients - Jaguar NAT SGI and Jaguar Excel, will enable beauty brands to meet the most stringent global regulations, and satisfy consumers' growing needs for more responsible and sustainable beauty products.

"Until recently, the availability of biodegradable functional polymers was limited, explains Jean-Guy Le-Helloco, Vice President Home & Personal Care at Solvay. With our biodegradable ingredients in the Jaguar range, formulators now have ingredients that enable them to expand their range of more responsible hair and body care products."

In addition to the new biodegradable ingredients for the Jaguar range, Solvay's experts have developed the "Beauty Biodeg Score" which grades its products from A to D based on OECD guidelines.1. The two new polymers meet the most demanding criteria2 in terms of biodegradability: Jaguar NAT SGI, a thickener, achieves an A rating (classified as "readily biodegradable"); Jaguar Excel, a conditioning agent, achieves a B rating (classified as "inherently ultimately biodegradable"). They complete the product range, which already includes Jaguar HP-8 COS SGI thickener and Jaguar C500 STD conditioning agent, both rated B. Typical applications include shampoos, conditioners, hair treatments, styling gels, shower gels and body scrubs. They will be presented on the Solvay stand at the in-cosmetics world trade fair from April 5 to 7 in Paris.

"By assigning a biodegradability rating to our products, we help our stakeholders appreciate the rapid progress Solvay is making in developing biodegradable and sustainable products with full and transparent traceability. adds Galder Cristobal, Director of Home and Personal Care Research and Innovation at Solvay. We have entered an unprecedented phase of innovation with these new biodegradable polymers. And we are investing in advanced biodegradation tests for new-generation cosmetics ingredients. The new biodegradable ingredients in the Jaguar range mark the beginning of this adventure.

The guar beans used in the manufacture of Jaguar polymers are a renewable natural resource, sourced in part from Solvay's Sustainable Guar Initiative (SGI) in Rajasthan, India, which aims to :

  • implement best agricultural practices to improve guar quality and secure its supply, while preserving the water resources needed for its cultivation
  • enable farmers to earn a better living
  • encourage women's emancipation at local level.

Solvay's commitment to sustainable beauty is at the heart of Beauty for the Planet, an initiative that aims to provide sustainable beauty ingredients, suitable for consumers and the environment, through innovation and partnerships with customers.

  1. Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development. 
  2. Complies with OECD 301 F and OECD 302 B guidelines.

Responsible landfills 

L'Oréal has received a PCD award for its 3D Pouch Elvive Color produced by Arcade Beauty. The global specialist in sample and single-dose solutions for perfume and beauty is supporting the group in the strategic optimization of its refills, to limit single-use packaging and reduce plastic. 

Elsève's Elvive Color Vive Protective refill in mono PE is recyclable, and allows a material saving of 75 % compared to two 250 ml shampoo bottles. 

Latest launch to date, Arcade Beauty manufactures for Kerastase professional hair products a 500 ml eco-refill in six references. This one promises this time a saving of 82 % of plastic.

Manufactured and packaged by Arcade Beauty

Arcade Beauty ensured the production of the six references as well as the packaging of the products on one of its European sites.

After Elsève, Garnier and dermocosmetic brands such as LRP, L'Oréal confirms its expectations, this time on professional care.

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