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Orlandi creates an eco-friendly single-dose hand gel for Maison Caron

By
Kristel Milet
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Maison CARON has decided to offer six of its fragrances in disinfectant scented hand gels to extend the perfuming ritual. It asked its in-house perfumer Jean JACQUES to adapt the formulas of these fragrances to create this new range, available in 6x45ml boxes and 200ml bottles. 
To promote this collection, Orlandi and its partner V-Shapes have produced a single-dose product that combines technical prowess and eco-responsibility. A first in the world of sampling. 

V-shapes, an exclusive single-dose, certified eco-responsible 

This unique sample has recently benefited from Tomra verification and Interseroh certification, two benchmark bodies for recyclability in the industry. This innovation rewards several years of research into packaging solutions that integrate responsible waste management. 
The single-dose V-Shapes, designed to be recyclable, is made of single-material polypropylene. The challenge was to design an aluminum-free barrier tight enough to accommodate and preserve the alcohol in the scented gel solution. This has now been achieved. Fans of Maison Caron will now be able to discover the 6 fragrances in single-dose form: Pour Un Homme, Aimez-Moi Comme Je Suis, Rose Ivoire, Vétiver Infini, Narcisse Blanc and Eau de Rocaille. 
With its PP monomaterial single-dose, Orlandi takes another step towards the eco-responsible development of its product offering. Previously used for its cosmetics offer, Orlandi can now integrate its V-Shapes mono-dose and provide its customers with a real solution for premium, eco-responsible perfume sampling. 

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Spectrums Europe launches a new range of phytocannabinoids

By
The editorial staff
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"CBD heralds a small revolution in the beauty and wellness fields. However, its development is not without a certain amount of confusion. How pure are the products on offer? What is the actual dosage? How do they comply with current regulations? Optimaceuticals was born of a militant desire to offer phytocannabinoid solutions whose quality criteria are set out in complete transparency, says Spectrums Europe. Optimaceuticals solutions are distinguished first and foremost by their purity: the highest concentrations of active ingredients, an absence of THC measured to 2 decimal places (0.00 %) and an absence of impurities guaranteed at 10 control points".

The natural origin of CBD guarantees its isomeric purity and therefore optimal efficacy. Obtained from industrial hemp grown organically in the USA, Optimaceuticals active ingredients are Cosmos, Natrue and Vegan Society certified.

Market-ready solutions

"To ensure the greatest operability of our ingredients, the Optimaceuticals range has been carefully thought through by application. The XB grades of the Optimaceuticals beauty line have undergone in vitro and in vivo evaluations to support your product claims. The XN grades of the Optimaceuticals nutrition line have been the subject of Novel Food dossiers submitted in January 2021 and declared valid by the European authorities in February 2022. "says the company.

Three first references launched at in-cosmetics 2022

  • Optima CBD

The range's flagship product, Optima CBD is over 99% pure cannabidiol %. Its efficacy has been in vitro and in vivo with results on sebum regulation, modulation of inflammatory response, soothing properties tested on skin and scalp, and bacteriostatic activity.

  • Optima CBG

Less well known to the general public, CBG (cannabigerol) is the precursor of all phytocannabinoids. An initial series of in vitro tests showed its remarkable activity in controlling sebum and modulating inflammatory response.

  • Optima Broad Extract

Offering a CBD concentration of over 85 %, it also contains other phytocannabinoids of interest such as CBG (cannabigerol), CBE (cannabielsion) or CBC (cannabichromene), and a fine terpene profile.

These two references are the subject of novel food dossiers submitted in January 2021 and declared valid by the European authorities in February 2022. EFSA's opinion is awaited in

U'Cosmetics: three winners

By
editocom
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On March 17, 2022, UCO Bretagne Nord in Guingamp organized the 13th edition of U'Cosmetics, a student competition and professional symposium, this year implemented on the theme of "Professional cosmetics: innovation at the service of practice."

The objective for contest participants was to propose an innovative product or concept that met an expectation or need of wellness and beauty professionals ́ institutes, hair salons, barbershops, spas, thalassotherapy centers, nail salons, etc. To achieve this, they were able to reflect on finished products, textures, application rituals and protocols, not forgetting marketing and communication aspects.

The choice of theme was intended to highlight professionals who have been particularly affected by the health crisis, by inviting players in the cosmetics sector (brands, manufacturers, ingredient suppliers) to discuss their needs and issues.

Among the 10 finalist teams, the most innovative projects were rewarded with four prizes:

  • Formulation Innovation Prize
  • Innovative Concept Award
  • Jury's Favourite Award
  • Special Philippe Collas Internet users' favourite award

Prix Innovation Formulation, and Prix Phillipe Collas :
Powdhair: Université Catholique de l'Ouest Bretagne Nord de Guingamp - M1 Ingénierie des produits et des process cosmétiques, project led by Lucie Chapel, Julie Kerebel, Enora Le Clech, Blandine Mitault and Rose Moan.
"Powdhair aims to create a range of five natural hair care products in powder form for professional hairdressers. The range includes three shampoos tailored to the customer's specific needs, a scalp scrub and a powder mask."

Innovative Concept Award:
Elix'Hydre: School of industrial biology - 2nd year engineering course Project led by Alice Paquier, Clara Peigneux, Julie Petitfour and Manon Pizzinato. 
"Our company Yanapay offers a post-tattoo care kit with a "second skin" effect, called Elix'Hydre, which meets ecological, practical, technical and microbiological stability criteria. The kit consists of two products: a moisturizing gel and a gel-fixing spray."

Jury's Favourite Award :
Sõn sweet: Université de Rennes 1 - Master Biologie-Gestion Project led by Manon Bouchet, Eva Bougeard, Enora Brandily and Nolwenn Girot.
"In these times of health crisis, socio-aestheticians are faced with a lack of sensitivity due to the need to wear gloves during treatments. Sõn Sweet proposes new hand protections that give the illusion of skin-to-skin touch and can provide added sensory value."

See you in 2023 for the 14th edition of U'Cosmetics. The theme? "Sport and cosmetics.

Anjac Health & Beauty strengthens its position in North America and its pharmaceutical activities

By
The editorial staff
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Anjac Health & Beauty (Anjac) has announced the acquisition of Pillar5 Pharma (Pillar5), a leading CDMO specialized in the production of sterile ophthalmic solutions and niche solid forms (tablets, capsules, etc.). This operation confirms Anjac's international expansion and extends its healthcare offering with a new ophthalmic range to serve local and international brands and laboratories. This is Anjac's second major operation in 2022, following the merger with Apollo Healthcare last January.

Pillar5, CDMO a key player in the sterile ophthalmology market in North America.

A Canadian company, Pillar5 is one of North America's leading CDMOs for the production of sterile ophthalmic solutions and solid forms (tablets, capsules, etc.) Pillar5 is a pioneer and the only CDMO to offer innovative ophthalmic solutions on the North American market, namely preservative-free sterile multidoses.

An independent company since 2009, Pillar5, based in Arnprior, Ontario, offers a complete range of services, from product formulation and manufacture to packaging customization and technical services. With a diversified and loyal customer portfolio, Pillar5 supports major pharmaceutical companies as well as ophthalmic care specialists.

The company has 150 employees and sales of $CAD 50 million.

A unique entrepreneurial dynamism

With Pillar5, the Anjac group signs its 9ᵉ acquisition in five years, and sees its overall sales reach almost 650 million euros following this operation, doubling in the space of three years. Each new acquisition represents an opportunity for the Anjac Group to extend its range of services in specific fields, while leveraging their complementarities. The Anjac Group now comprises 14 expert companies, with 22 R&D and manufacturing sites.

"We are delighted with this strategic acquisition, which will enable us to expand into a key new segment, the ophthalmic market, and more specifically into the high value-added innovation of preservative-free, multi-dose sterile ophthalmic solutions.explains Aurélien Chaufour, President of the Anjac Group.

"We are delighted to be joining a family-owned industrial group that will support us in our ambitious expansion plans. We have already identified synergies, notably with international customers who can be supported by Pillar5 and other companies in the Anjac group".says Dwight Gorham, President and CEO of Pillar5.

Shiseido adopts manufacturing 2.0 solutions

By
editocom
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Dassault Systèmes announces that Shiseido Company, Limited, an international manufacturer of beauty products founded 150 years ago and present in 120 countries, has signed a multi-year license agreement to implement its manufacturing operations management solutions at the group's main sites worldwide. In order to meet the expectations of consumers, who have shown such enthusiasm for its skincare and wellness products during the Covid19 pandemic, Shiseido wants to be able to implement more efficient production systems that resonate with its customers and contribute to brand loyalty.

The deployment of the "Perfect Production" solution based on Delmia Apriso applications and Dassault Systèmes' 3DExperience platform will support Shiseido's "Win 2023 and Beyond" digital transformation acceleration strategy, enabling the group to focus on improving plant productivity and reducing costs.

The "Perfect Production" solution and Delmia Apriso application will enable Shiseido to unify and standardize the management of its manufacturing operations, as well as the best practices implemented at its main production sites in Japan, Europe, the USA and other countries. According to Dassault Systèmes, by helping Shiseido improve end-to-end planning and optimize its operations, this unified collaborative virtual environment will increase operational performance, productivity and profitability, and help resolve manufacturing issues without affecting product quality. In addition, improved production flexibility in different regions will enable Shiseido to allocate its production resources with greater precision, maintain product quality and meet demand locally and worldwide.

"The pandemic has shown us that for a large number of consumers, skincare and wellness routines are a priority. By 2030, we aim to become a global leader in the cosmetics and personal well-being market, helping our customers to express their beauty and develop their well-being throughout their lives, says Atsunori Takano, General Manager of Information Technology (CTIO) for the Shiseido Group. We are convinced that Dassault Systèmes' leadership position in the cosmetics sector and the value its technology can bring to our manufacturing operations will fully support our growth strategy."

"As consumers' shift towards wellness accelerates across the globe, major players in the cosmetics industry will need to bring innovative new products to market faster than ever. With the 3DExperience platform, global manufacturers such as Shiseido have a real-time virtual manufacturing environment that gives them the agility they need to do more with existing factories and accelerate different aspects of manufacturing to expand the range of cosmetics and personal wellness products they offer their customers", says Philippe Loeb, Vice President of Consumer Products and Distribution at Dassault Systèmes.

Soon the fifth edition of the Olfaction & Perspectives conference

By
editocom
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Nearly 200 participants and some 15 speakers are expected to attend the 5th edition.e edition of the "Olfaction & Perspectives" conference organized by Cosmetic Valley in partnership with Isipca, the leading national and international school for the perfume, cosmetics and aromatic food industries. The conference will be held in Clichy La Garenne, in the Boucle Nord Seine area, which has been a partner of the cluster since 2019 and is home to major players in the perfume and cosmetics industry: Givaudan, l'Oréal, Albéa, Pochet, Procter & Gamble, Arkema, Eugene Perma, etc.

Edition 2022: 4 topical themes

La 5e edition of the "Olfaction & Perspectives" conference will take stock of the impact of Covid in the field of olfaction: its symptoms, recovery methods, but also the way in which brands have adapted their sales practices. In connection with this theme, several presentations will analyze the management of an odor-free environment.

In addition to Covid, the congress will look at how brands are managing the natural trend that is so essential today, and what a natural scent means to the consumer. Another hot topic is artificial intelligence, which can now be used to develop fragrance products. Participants will be able to exchange points of view with various experts. 

Congress 2022 themes

  • What impact does COVID have on Olfaction?
  • Good smells and bad smells: our daily benchmarks...
  • Does natural have a specific scent?
  • Artificial intelligence and olfactory creation: relevant?

Read more

Stoelzle Masnières Perfumery signatures

By
editocom
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On March 2, to coincide with the presentation of his fall-winter 2022-2023 women's collection at Paris Fashion Week, Belgian designer Dries Van Noten unveiled his beauty collection of fragrances and make-up.

Creative director of the brand that bears his name, Dries Van Noten joined the Puig Group in 2018. Passionate about flowers, which he has long cultivated in his Antwerp garden, it is therefore, as he likes to say, in "creative ping-pong" with 10 perfumers that he has realized his dream and expressed his ethical and artisanal vision through this superb line of 10 genderless Eaux de Parfum.

The brand has entrusted Stoelzle Masnières with the exclusive creation of these refillable glass and decorative bottles, in the image of Dries Van Noten's world of contrasts and mastery of color.

This collaboration between the development teams has enabled us to meet several challenges:

  • Develop 10 decor versions for each fragrance. 8 bottles were lacquered and 2 powder-coated (exclusive STO/Quali Glass Coat 2.0 process): Raving Rose and Santal Greenery.
  • Fit a new "watchmaker" type ring with notches.
  • Provide several solutions for gluing the shells to ensure perfect adhesion for each of the beautiful materials chosen for these 10 projects: porcelain, wood, metal, resin, which make these bottles decorative objects.

Refillable 100 ml bottles - to enable refilling, a key is sold to unscrew the pump kit, along with a funnel.

Beauty: the French want more transparency from brands

By
The editorial staff
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Klarna, a specialist in payment, shopping and banking services, has published a report confirming that French consumers are changing the way they consume beauty products, with well-being and the environment becoming the main purchasing drivers.

This new survey of French beauty consumers reveals that the French are looking for cosmetics that reflect their aspirations for a healthy lifestyle, as well as their environmental and ethical concerns. Brand transparency is a priority for 78 % of respondents, who feel that brands should be clearer about their sustainability credentials. More than three out of five consumers (64 %) read the packaging of the beauty products they buy more carefully. They also want to consume products that are more respectful of the environment and health. Of the 67 % consumers who use products with natural ingredients, half do so to reduce environmental problems.

"Today's definition of beauty is closely linked to the sense of well-being and health not only of the French, but also of consumers around the world, explains Eric Petitfils, Managing Director of Klarna in France. Today, French beauty product buyers expect products to be transparent, respectful of their health but also of the environment, paying more and more attention to the ingredients used and the labels obtained by brands."

Wellness

  • Health and well-being are at the heart of beauty product buyers' preoccupations. 71 % of French buyers prefer their well-being to their appearance: the main motivation for buying cosmetics is to please themselves (48 %) - particularly Generation X (50%) and baby-boomers (63%). Ultimately, one in five consumers buys a beauty product to feel better about themselves.
  • Beauty routines are being rethought... two out of five cosmetics buyers (36 %) say they spend more on skincare than make-up, a figure that increases with the age of the respondents (generation Z: 38 %, baby-boomers: 53 %). At the same time, three out of 10 beauty product users say they have prioritized skincare over make-up since the pandemic, and 20 % say their beauty routine has been simplified, with fewer steps.
  • ...while beauty accessories and tools gain in popularity. At the same time, more than one in two consumers (55 %) use skincare appliances as part of their beauty routine. The facial cleansing brush is the most popular tool among French shoppers (65 %), closely followed by jade rollers (39%), particularly among Generation Z (52 %) and Millennials (40 %).

Innovation

  • Personalization and innovation are key consumer expectations in France. Overall, beauty product buyers appreciate the innovative services offered by brands. Two out of five consumers (39%) would be interested in personalized skincare recommendations, as well as tailor-made products (23 %). Cosmetics shoppers are also interested in using smart mirrors (16 %) and augmented reality applications to try on make-up virtually (15 %).
  • Word-of-mouth and social networks are the main sources of inspiration for discovering new beauty trends. Most cosmetics buyers also say they are inclined to try new beauty trends through friends and acquaintances (38%). What's more, three out of ten people (30%) are encouraged to try out new beauty trends by discovering them on social networks (TikTok, Youtube, Instagram) - especially for younger generations (Gen Z 57 %, Millennials 41 %). 

CSR

  • Sustainable development is essential. Today's beauty buyers are looking for brands and products that reflect their values. Four out of five buyers (78 %) expect greater clarity from brands, and think they should be more transparent about their sustainability credentials. They also attach importance to the legibility of ingredients, and nearly two out of three (64 %) consult packaging more carefully when buying cosmetics, particularly to identify certifications and labels (58%).
  • Natural results and "clean beauty" at the top of consumer expectations. Seven out of ten respondents (67 %) say they use natural and organic products. Their main motivations are health (48 %), the reduction of environmental problems (47 %) and the absence of animal testing (45 %).

Full results are available here. 

L'Occitane and VPI sign their first eco-refill in recycled PP 100%

By
Kristel Milet
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 The L'Occitane en Provence brand has been committed to reducing the environmental footprint of its packaging since its inception, and wishes to fully integrate it into a circular economy approach. The increase of reusable or refillable solutions is at the heart of its strategy since its first eco-refill launched in 2008. 
Today, VPI, a French specialist in the injection of plastic parts for the luxury industry, is carrying out a new ambitious and innovative project for the brand: a new type of refill for one of its iconic products, the Utra Rich Shea Body Cream.

 New refill and new material 

Eco-responsibility is at the heart of L'Occitane's attention. Its strong commitment to CSR is reflected in its formulations and selection of ingredients, as well as in its packaging and accessories. The products are designed according to the principles of eco-design and the Ultra Rich Shea Body Cream refill uses several levers to minimize its environmental impact. 
Beyond the implementation of a refill, L'Occitane teams have chosen to use a PP 100 % PCR (post consumer recycled) material. They are thus working to revalorize fossil resources and to better integrate L'Occitane in the circular economy process. 

The PP 100 % PCR cup offers the benefits of preserving natural resources, supporting recycling channels and reducing the environmental footprint of the entire supply chain due to the inherent lightness of the material. 
The use of recycled PP 100 % and the creation of the cup are real technical advances for which VPI has demonstrated its commitment. The management of batches of recycled material, their traceability, the dimensional control of a 200 ml format, all within a tight development schedule, are the real feats achieved by VPI for L'Occitane. 

Reinventing the new gesture of an iconic product packaging 

The 200 ml Shea Butter Ultra Rich Body Cream refill represented a major technical challenge. L'Occitane called upon VPI's know-how to meet a double challenge, including the mastery of a new material and the implementation of a new process. 
The collaboration of the teams, involving a design study on the grip, for unclipping and reclipping, has enabled the invention of an intuitive and pleasant gesture. The cup, with a capacity of 200 ml, heat-sealed after filling, is sold alone, and is positioned in the aluminum packaging acquired at the time of the first purchase. 

"At VPI, we are honored to work with committed companies like L'Occitane en Provence. We thank the teams in place who, upstream, think about eco-design and who, in the development and industrialization of products, invest themselves so that the reflections lead to beautiful projects really eco-designed. We are proud to have been able to complete all the research carried out on recycled materials and to see such ambitious action plans come to fruition, said Marc Beltrami, VPI's Sales Director. 

"The Shea Butter Ultra Rich Body Cream refill solution allows us to significantly reduce our dependence on plastic compared to the old product, saving over 40 tons annually. It also meets our ambition to maximize our use of post-consumer recycled plastic. VPI's teams were able to meet this challenge perfectly". said David Bayard, R&D Packaging Director of L'Occitane en Provence. 

The Cosmetic Victories 2022: six finalists

By
The editorial staff
-

Six finalists were chosen from among the 80 projects from 18 countries that applied for the 7ᵉ edition of "The Cosmetic Victories" international research and innovation competition. Retained by a selection committee of international scientific experts, the applications are carriers of an innovation or research work applicable to perfumery-cosmetics.

The two prizes (Academic Prize and Industrial Prize) will be awarded by a jury of reference in charge of distinguishing the winners among these six finalists. Each of the winners will receive a prize of 10,000 euros and will be supported by Cosmetic Valley.

Academic Category

  • Center de Recherches sur les macromolécules végétales - CNRS Grenoble (France) : Carbogel : A Simple and Eco-Friendly Carbohydrate-Based Gelling Agent for Oily Phase 
    The project focuses on the supramolecular gelation of organic liquids, such as oils, solvents or fatty esters, by monosaccharide derivatives that self-assemble into a 3D network. The "sweet" gelators are synthesized by an eco-friendly and efficient method (reaction in water). Gelling is performed by sonication, or by heating/cooling, or by dilution. The gel can be used as a stimuli-sensitive matrix for the controlled delivery of cosmetic agents. Carbogel contributes to "green" and sustainable cosmetics by limiting our environmental and social impact.
  • CNRS - Sorbonne University (France) : New biosurfactants for functional formulations with biopolymers
    The project aims to develop innovative stimuli-responsive formulations based on amphiphilic molecules of microbial origin (AM), biotensioactives, and biopolymers (BP). AMs are stimuli-responsive molecules produced by fermentation. They are 100% biosourced, biodegradable and biocompatible. Their multiple phases (micelles, fibers, vesicles...) form in diluted water at room temperature and can modify BP properties (elasticity, encapsulation-release, hydrogenation) by a simple change of pH, temperature and ionic strength.
  • Wageningen University and Research (Netherlands): Organic microalgal farming and milking for cosmetic ingredients
    Microalgae use carbon dioxide and nutrients to produce molecules of interest considered as sustainable resources. In this context, a unique cell-milking system will be developed to produce emulsifiers, gels, oils, fragrances and antioxidants from microalgae. The system will use low intensity electric fields coupled with eutectic solvents of natural origin.

Industrial category

  • Bioinspir (France) : New generation of sustainable fragrances with ecocatalysis
    Bioinspir is developing a new sustainable chemistry chain based on the use of ecocatalysts, catalysts of plant origin. Ecocatalysts allow the eco-responsible and bioinspired synthesis of a wide range of cosmetic and perfumery ingredients. Fragrances such as methyl dihydrojasmonate (Hedione) and linalool oxide have been synthesized in state-of-the-art green chemistry processes combining efficiency, speed, naturalness and eco-responsibility.
  • The SkinDNA Company Pty Ltd (Australia): SkinRNA Micro-cell Test
    A world first, this epigenetic diagnostic test is repeatable in patch and laboratory settings that quantifies the effectiveness of skin care through real-time gene expression activity. The device collects more than 15,000 genes, while its algorithms provide gene expression activity scores for skin functions, including collagen and elastin production and skin inflammation. After product intervention, a second test is performed to measure the new gene activity against the initial benchmarks. Consumers can then repeat the tests at regular intervals to track and monitor the genetic improvement of the skin without waiting for visible signs.
  • PolymerExpert (France) : EstoGel Green - Nature Inspired Polymer
    EstoGel Green is a rheology modifier for fatty phase with high suspensory capacity. Based on a supramolecular approach, it can produce transparent and shear sensitive oily gels with a soft and natural feel. 100 % bio-based, Cosmos-approved and globally approved, EstoGel Green is a unique thickener, according to the company. According to PolymerExpert, it combines performance, naturalness and sensoriality. This eco-designed and easy-to-use ingredient is a key ally in the development of a new generation of responsible cosmetic products.

The awards ceremony will be broadcast live on Cosmetic Valley's Youtube channel on Tuesday, March 22, 2022, at 4:15 pm.

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