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Enzymatically recycled PET

Carbios announces that it has validated the 3ᵉ and final technical stage of the CE-PET research project, co-financed by Ademe (Agence de l'environnement et de la maîtrise de l'énergie), and for which Carbios is lead partner alongside its academic partner TWB. This breakthrough confirms the potential of Carbios' enzymatic recycling process, C-Zyme. This ground-breaking innovation makes it possible to produce, from any PET waste, including textiles, a wide variety of products of equivalent quality to those of petro-sourced origin.

Worldwide, almost 90 million tonnes of PET are produced every year, of which over 2/3 are used to manufacture fibres. However, only 13 % of textile waste is recycled to date, and mainly in downcycling, i.e. in lower-quality applications (such as padding, insulation or rags). By producing a pilot-scale white PET 100 % fiber enzymatically recycled from colored textile waste, Carbios aims to open up the circular economy to the textile industry. According to the company, C-Zyme is now on the verge of industrialization, and will soon enable leading brands to move closer to their sustainable development objectives.

Separate collection of textile waste soon to be mandatory in Europe

From January 1, 2025, separate collection of textile waste, already in place in some countries, will be made mandatory for all European Union member states (European Waste Directive 2018/851). The process developed by Carbios will thus be one of the solutions that will enable this waste to be recovered, making it part of a genuine circular economy model.

These technological validations were carried out as part of the CE-PET research project, co-funded by the French Environment and Energy Management Agency (Ademe). In particular, the project aims to develop Carbios' enzymatic PET recycling process for textile waste. The C-Zyme technology is complementary to thermomechanical recycling, and will make it possible to treat plastic and textile waste deposits that are currently not or poorly recovered. Carbios received €827,200 (€206,800 in subsidies and €620,400 in repayable advances) to validate this stage of the project.

The world's first PET biorecycling plant

Carbios has announced its collaboration with Indorama Ventures in the construction of a reference plant using Carbios' PET biorecycling technology at Indorama Ventures' production site in France (Longlaville, Meurthe-et-Moselle).

This unique biorecycling plant combines the science and technology of Carbios with the world-class manufacturing capabilities of Indorama Ventures. This collaboration will meet the growing needs of consumers and major consumer goods companies for more sustainable packaging, including Carbios' partners and shareholders (L'Oréal, Michelin, L'Occitane, Nestlé Waters, PepsiCo, Suntory Beverage & Food Europe).

The aim is to build and operate the world's first PET biorecycling plant in France. The plant will have an estimated processing capacity of around 50,000 tonnes of post-consumer PET waste per year, equivalent to 2 billion bottles or 2.5 billion trays.

The investment required for the project is estimated at 150 million euros for the Carbios technology, including an additional purification step, which has been integrated into the process. At the same time, an estimated 50 million euros will be invested in preparing the site infrastructure. The project is expected to create around 150 direct and indirect full-time jobs.

Paris Packaging Week: the winners of the Innovations Awards are announced

Organized as part of Paris Packaging Week, the annual Innovations Awards celebrate the best packaging innovations in fragrances, cosmetics, skincare, premium beverages, aerosols and dispensing systems. 

Since their inception, the Innovation Awards at each show have recognized the year's most outstanding packaging products on the European and international markets. 

They are awarded by three independent juries of packaging technical experts, professionals from the most influential brands on the market, and journalists representing the profession. All are looking for packaging that demonstrates real innovation and pushes the boundaries in terms of creativity, packaging technology and, increasingly, sustainability initiatives. The juries met at the end of 2021 to examine all the entries and score them according to the criteria for each category. 

The 2022 prize list in figures :

  • 180 entries in competition
  • 47 jury members
  • 58 award-winning products
  • 27 awards
  • 31 certificates

The Innovation Awards will be presented in person at three official ceremonies on June 29 and 30, 2022 at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, at the heart of Paris Packaging Week.

For the full list of winners :
www.parispackagingweek.com/fr/awards

Expanscience joins the B Corp Beauty Coalition

A company with a mission, and once again certified B Corp, Expanscience joins forces with 40 B Corp companies worldwide to improve social and environmental practices in the cosmetics industry.

A French, family-owned company, Expanscience has been committed to CSR for over 16 years. As a company with a mission, Expanscience structures its action around its raison d'être - "Helping individuals shape their well-being"- and is committed to making a voluntary contribution to the common good within the framework of the Pacte law. With its new CSR strategy impACT Expanscience has set ambitious targets to accelerate its transition to a positive-impact, regenerative company. As part of this, Expanscience is continuously developing its model and offering in dermocosmetics (Mustela and Babo Botanicals), the production of active cosmetics and rheumatology, and is developing cooperation with numerous players to co-construct more sustainable models.

Expanscience, once again B Corp certified

The international B Corp certification is one of the most demanding in the world. It distinguishes and helps to advance companies that integrate societal and environmental objectives into their activities and business model. To date, 4460 companies worldwide are B Corp certified. This certification covers five key areas of impact: governance, employees, the community, the environment and customers. The principle of interdependence aims to advance not only the company itself, but also its entire ecosystem (partners, suppliers, customers).

After being the 1st pharmaceutical and dermocosmetic laboratory in the world to be certified in 2018, Expanscience renews its certification and moves up 10 points. The assessment results show progress in many areas:

  • Measuring, reducing and defining a trajectory to contribute to global carbon neutrality by 2030,
  • Ecodesign of Mustela products and analysis of their life cycle,
  • Formulation and increase in the proportion of organic ingredients in Mustela products,
  • Certification of plant-based supply chains (Fair for Life), raw materials and cosmetics (Bio/EWG verified),
  • Social action for employees,
  • Ethics and transparency,
  • Joint actions with Expanscience communities and stakeholders to develop more sustainable offers and models.

As a member of the Convention des Entreprises pour le Climat, a signatory of Febea's Plastic Act and a partner in the Reset for Cosmetics program, Expanscience has joined the B Corp Beauty Coalition.

Transforming the cosmetics industry

Expanscience joins forces with nearly 40 B Corp companies in the beauty sector to found the B Corp Beauty Coalition.

The ambition of this international alliance of B Corp companies is to implement profound changes to improve the social and environmental footprint of the cosmetics industry. Its members are committed to taking action to improve the key issues facing the cosmetics industry. In particular: ingredient sourcing and sustainability, greener logistics, packaging responsibility.

Jean-Paul Berthomé, President of Laboratoires Expanscience, has been elected member of the B Corp Beauty Coalition board. This board is made up of 12 members from 12 companies of complementary size and activity, based in 8 different countries. In this capacity, Jean-Paul Berthomé will play a special role in representing the coalition and raising its profile within the cosmetics industry.

"With our Mustela and Babo Botanicals brands and our active cosmetics business, we want to contribute to the transformation of the cosmetics industry. The B Corp Beauty Coalition enables us to take concrete action alongside companies that share our convictions. Together, we want to embody a new approach to beauty and accelerate the sector's transition. This collective is essential to address major planetary challenges such as contributing to global carbon neutrality, combating the destruction of biodiversity and working towards zero waste".says Jean-Paul Berthomé.

Zozio and Actility join forces for tank monitoring

At a time when the French cosmetics market is booming, according to Febea with 23 % of global market share, Zozio, an Industry 4.0 start-up, and Abeeway, a market specialist in traceability devices, are teaming up to offer a tracking and tracing solution. 

This solution works for a variety of industrial assets, with a first successful project in the cosmetics industry, but not only that, as it is an agile solution that can be adjusted to all industries. Abeeway's expertise in outdoor geolocation systems, coupled with Zozio's flow management service, made this unique project a real success, according to both companies.

To compensate for a lack of visibility in the factory, Zozio offers a solution - a digital twin of industrial logistics - that supports operators in their daily work. It enables production processes to be visualized, understood, analyzed and optimized.   

According to Zozio, the benefits for customers are numerous: they can retrieve field data in real time, and control and optimize their logistics flows. The result is improved performance, reduced raw material losses, and more eco-responsible production thanks to fewer tanks.  

Looking for a reliable partner with expertise in outdoor geolocation, Zozio approached Abeeway, a subsidiary of Actility. Abeeway is a leader in IoT solutions based on LPWA (Low Power Wide Area) networks, and offers high-precision Track&Trace systems (to 10 meters) with the greatest autonomy, unique on the market.   

Abeeway's low-energy devices provide years of continuous use thanks to LoRaWAN connectivity. The devices operate both indoors and outdoors thanks to their multi-technology geolocation system, integrating GPS, Abeeway's patented low-power GPS, WiFi Sniffing, Bluetooth Low Energy and Bluetooth LE Beaconing for precise indoor tracking.  

Abeeway devices combine state-of-the-art localization technologies, robust hardware, meticulous selection of high-performance, low-power components and uncompromising software optimization. This enables flexible behavior, highly responsive to changing needs, and guarantees the location of goods and people in a variety of coverage scenarios.

Zozio has completed a successful deployment with Abeeway & Actility for one of France's leading luxury brands. The brand uses the integrated Zozio-Abeeway solution to track high-end perfume tanks on production sites. A similar use case has already been implemented for its customer L'Oréal, world leader in the beauty industry. L'Oréal's Cosmétique Active Production sites called on Zozio to optimize flows within and in transit between its Vichy and La Roche-Posay plants. 

Lao shampoos equip themselves with a Sorga passport to prove their commitment

Lao shampoos will be equipped with unitary tamper-proof digital passports to provide verifiable proof of their commitment to each product. An innovation made possible by the French solution Sorga technologie.

When Lao shampoos claim to be natural, they now allow consumers to check the origin of raw materials, certifications and the entire history of the shampoo at any time and on every product, thanks to a Sorga digital passport easily readable by a QR code, unique to each product. Each of the brand's strong commitments is proven by original documents anchored in a low-energy public blockchain, which Sorga enables to be verified in real time, with no applications to download or personal data to provide. These tamper-proof, indelible proofs contain a marker to check whether the passport document conforms to the original in every respect.

"Making cosmetics more responsible is necessary, but it's no longer enough for today's customers: you have to be able to prove it to show that you're not greenwashing!" explains Lao shampoos founder Lisa Schino. "That's why our next products will be equipped with a unique Sorga passport where everything is easy to check, everything is secure."

Lao: a committed brand for the cosmetics of tomorrow

"By equipping a brand with returnable cosmetics, Sorga is once again demonstrating its ability to meet the needs of the new, committed players in tomorrow's cosmetics industry," emphasizes Philippe Guguen, President of MAP Emulsion, the publisher of the Sorga solution.

That's why Lao has decided to reduce its impact through the use of aluminum bottles, which are returnable. Aluminum is a light metal that protects against UV rays and is perfectly recyclable, with over 97% recycled in France.


More than just secure information, a unique link after purchase

With this innovation of SORGA passports unique to each product, the customer will not only be able to access proof of LAO's commitments, but also have access to live messaging with Lisa Schino, benefit from loyalty rewards, be invited by the brand, or even test new products.

"Sorga is the tool we needed to recreate the bond and trust with our customers," says Lisa Shino. "It's 100% French like us, it's designed for impact like us, it's very innovative, like us. So it was an obvious choice for us".
"When Lisa tells you about Guillaume and David, hemp growers in Alsace, or Samuel, her nettle and lemon balm grower, you understand that she's not bringing in cheap ingredients from the other side of the world, but that she's right on the mark," explains Philippe Guguen. "She makes an extra effort, for a more committed cosmetics that limits its impact. Sorga provides her with the means to explain this in a secure way on each product: transparency and traceability are clear and legible for everyone, easy to access".

Special Edition by Luxe Pack returns on May 31 and June 1, 2022

Special Edition by Luxe Pack, the trade show dedicated to sustainable premium packaging, will be held on May 31 and 1er June 2022 at the Carreau du Temple in Paris, where nearly 70 exhibitors and over 2,000 visitors are expected.

Postponed to the end of August in 2021 due to the health context, the show will resume its cruising speed and will be held at the end of May-beginning of June, asserting its exclusive positioning: the only show in France that promotes packaging innovation in terms of sustainable development for all sectors of activity, from perfumery/cosmetics, to wines and spirits, via delicatessen, or fashion.

"Luxury brands, packaging manufacturers, members of our steering committee...All are unanimous: the integration of environmental issues is the key factor for the success of packaging innovations," explains Fabienne Germond, director of the show. "Driven by the necessity of the subject, Special Edition by Luxe Pack will present more and more sustainable packaging solutions and will bring an enlightened and sharp content to go further in the ecodesign of tomorrow's packaging."

This event will host more than 70 exhibitors selected for their know-how and expertise in the eco-design of sustainable packaging.

Among them, the leaders in the manufacture of luxury packaging, including new players, in order to guarantee visitors a range of packaging solutions designed with the environment in mind: lightweighting, refillability, "clean" finishing, natural materials, plant-based cushioning, etc.

The program includes a series of conferences entirely built with brands committed to sustainable development. It is based on didactic and interactive formats:

  • Plenary conferences in the morning with a panel of speakers including emblematic or rising brands but also associations and experts, who position themselves as true mentors, delivering the keys to meet the current challenges of the packaging industry in terms of sustainable development,
  • feedback from experience
  • new material pitches
  • an "Ask me anything" session: 45 minutes to freely ask questions to a fair packaging ambassador

A rich and instructive program will be added to animations, always with the same objective: to federate brands and manufacturers around a key issue of the profession, to debate around a priority theme, and to initiate a collaborative experience for the respect of the environment.

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An analytical method for testing allergens

In its Rouen laboratory, SGS, a world specialist in testing, inspection and certification, has been specializing in chemical, physicochemical and ecotoxicological analyses for several decades.

Since 2021, the company has been offering manufacturers and distributors of cosmetic products a unique analytical method for testing the 57 allergens defined in the SCCS 1459/11 opinion of June 2012, which is currently the subject of a draft European regulation, with a planned entry into force on 1 January 2011.er quarter 2022.

Adapted from Ifra (International Fragrance Association), this new method was developed using gas chromatography (GC) coupled to mass spectrometry (MS). Its reduced number of injections per sample saves time in data reprocessing. In addition to ingredients, the analyses are particularly focused on finished products because the presence of possible allergen precursors and the instability of certain formulas may generate allergens that were not predicted during the development phase.

After nickel allergy, fragrance allergy is the most common skin allergy. Fragrances are almost always present in cosmetic products, whether in the form of synthetic substances or of natural origin, such as essential oils. They can potentially trigger a contact allergy affecting the skin, usually the face, armpits and hands, or cause skin irritations in some individuals such as eczema*.

The SGS laboratory in Rouen, France, specializes in chemical, physicochemical and ecotoxicological analyses. It has more than 100 employees and processes about 50,000 samples per year, including cosmetics, detergents and hygiene products. It has state-of-the-art equipment including chromatographic and spectral techniques that allow it to search for chemical substances in trace amounts, as required by regulations.

To meet the needs of manufacturers and distributors of cosmetic products, relating to the 57 allergens defined in the SCCS notice 1459/11 of June 2012, SGS has developed a unique method of analysis. Adapted from the Ifra method, it was developed using gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (GC/MS). It allows to detect and quantify that the 57 fragrances, including some isomers, have a concentration lower than 0.001% in the non rinsed products and 0.01% in the rinsed products. Above these concentrations, allergens will have to be labelled to inform the consumer.

"In order to allow the analysis of finished products and complex matrices, we have adapted the Ifra method, initially developed for perfumery ingredients. We use two columns of different polarity and perform systematic matrix doping to guarantee the reliability of our results. Based on our experience, we recommend performing these analyses on finished products because of the possible interactions during the mixing of ingredients, the possible presence of allergen precursors and the instability of certain formulas over time. In this way, customers can guarantee the conformity of their products until their estimated end of life," says Audrey Guibet, strategic expert for Cosmetics & Hygiene, SGS France.

The consumer will be alerted to allergenic components in the list of ingredients labeled on the product (Inci list). The higher the concentration of an ingredient present, the more the ingredient in question will be in pole position in the Inci list.

"This analysis on finished products allows us to guarantee to manufacturers, distributors, and therefore consumers, a marketing of cosmetic products in compliance with current and future regulations.concludes Carine Dumas, Cosmetics & Hygiene Development Manager, SGS France.

L'Oréal and Texen develop a generation of recycled 100 % PP jar caps

For the new Biotherm skincare collection, L'Oréal continues to rethink its increasingly eco-responsible packaging. As a long-standing partner, Texen took up this new eco-design challenge, combining new materials, decoration and aesthetic results.
Blue Beauty advocates eco-responsible beauty. To protect the seabed, this trend calls on brands to be even more ethical and transparent. Biotherm is dedicated to Blue Beauty, beauty at the intersection of blue biotechnology and Blue Commitments. The aim of Blue Beauty for Biotherm is to design products with a circular economy in mind. This includes the use of recycled materials.

Working together to promote the ecological transition of packaging

Pursuing its mission of "transforming material into experience in a virtuous way", Texen is acting as a pioneer to replace a conventional material, still rarely mastered in its recycled version, while ensuring its decoration and the entire supply chain.

In response to strict specifications concerning material sourcing, industrial process optimization and compliance with standards and regulations, Texen put its industrial experience and expertise in eco-materials processing and decoration to work on a strategic project. Its success is the fruit of intense collaboration between the teams.

New-generation hood

The cap is adaptable to a variety of jar sizes, and for men's and women's skincare formulas such as Cera Repair and Blue Therapy. Great care was taken to ensure aesthetic values: hot stamping was applied to the entire surface of the part, with no trace of overlap - a real challenge for this type of material. The same applies to the brand logo, which is executed in reserve, deliberately leaving the raw material visible in the center. And to lighten the ecological footprint, the excellent resistance of the hot stamping on the rPP allowed Texen to avoid applying a protective varnish.

This global eco-design approach, in which the use of rPP is the keystone, benefits from the agility of a dedicated automatic line.

TNT Global Manufacturing produces the refillable pack for Sisley's Phyto-Rouge Shine lipstick

TNT Global Manufacturing developed the packaging for Sisley's Phyto-Rouge Shine lipstick, designed in gold-anodized aluminum with a plastic insert and decorated with a white screen print, protected by a varnish. The refillable pack features a silk-screened S on the top and a recessed logo on the base. TNT Global Manufacturing also supplies the mechanism for this elegant design.

Co-founded in 2013 by Toby Cattermole and Thomas Diezinger, TNT Global Manufacturing designs, develops and manufactures high-end metal - zamak, aluminum, brass, stainless steel - and plastic components for the perfume, cosmetics and make-up industry such as caps, shields, plates, cases, boxes and cosmetic applicator components.

A second successful cosmetics industry committee!

On Monday 21 February, for nearly two hours, at the Pierre Mendès France center in Bercy, the cosmetics industry committee met for the second time under the chairmanship of Agnès Pannier-Runacher, Minister Delegate to the Minister of Economy, Finance and Recovery, in charge of Industry. Around the table were Marc-Antoine Jamet, General Secretary of LVMH and President of Cosmetic Valley, as well as Christophe Masson, General Manager of the competitiveness cluster, Emmanuel Guichard, General Delegate of the Federation of Beauty Companies (Febea) and Pierre Pelouzet, Business Mediator.

Alongside them, in remote mode, more than 40 representatives of the industry, industrialists from all the trades in the value chain, located in each of the regions where the major cosmetics production centers are located.

The meeting took place in a context, that of the strong rebound of the French cosmetics industry, described by the cluster's president in his introduction. With an ambivalent observation: if the French cosmetics industry recorded historic figures in exports, with a positive balance of 12.9 billion euros, a strong growth in the United States and China, a turnover on the rise, its market share is declining, its position in Europe is crumbling and its Chinese, Korean and Taiwanese competitors are increasingly ambitious. The cosmetics industry must now develop a strategic vision and strengthen its cohesion within the industry and with public authorities. 

During this industry committee, Agnès Pannier-Runacher praised the work accomplished in four major areas of action: the competitiveness of French beauty companies, priorities for innovation and research, taking into account the needs of the ecological transition, and the consolidation of international positions.

Marc-Antoine Jamet, said: "A meeting should be productive. This industry committee was productive. We have presented projects, completed or emerging, to consolidate, modernize, and make our industry and our products more sustainable and desirable. International branding, distribution, European presence, the ball is in the government's court."

Emmanuel Guichard : "Through these numerous collective projects, the cosmetics industry, already a champion of Made in France, demonstrates its willingness to go further by contributing to the industrial reconquest desired by the government and accelerating its ecological transition."

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