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The International Year of Glass is launched

By
The editorial staff
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On May 18, the UN General Assembly adopted, by consensus, a resolution proclaiming 2022 "International Year of Glass".

Following an inauguration ceremony in Geneva on February 10, 2022, the event was officially launched in France at a conference organized by the glass industries federation and the crystal and glass federation.

The opening conference, entitled "Glass for sustainable living", was held at the Palais du Luxembourg under the patronage of Catherine Dumas, Senator for Paris and Chair of the Senate's Métiers d'art group.

Catherine Dumas took the floor and emphasized that art crafts require technical gestures and dexterity. In her view, the International Year of Glass is an opportunity to "to raise awareness and make the public aware of the ubiquity of this material, the various associated trades and the potential for innovation."

Jacques Bordat, President of the French Federation of Glass Industries, and Jérôme de Lavergnolle, President of the French Federation of Crystal and Glass, reminded us that glass is a product of the future. "A versatile material that has stood the test of time and become part of our daily lives, while at the same time establishing itself as a material of the future. Recylcable and a source of innovation, glass still faces the challenge of "Decarbonizing glass production for a sustainable future.

Glass designer Emmanuel Barrois then spoke about his workshop and projects, highlighting the creative and innovative potential of glass.

Two round tables followed. The first was dedicated to climate change, while the second focused on the diversity of uses for glass through a number of testimonials.

Irène Gosset, President of the Pochet Group, took part in the round table discussion on decarbonizing the glass industry, which was also attended by Emmanuel Normant, VP in charge of sustainable development at Saint-Gobain, and Olivier Rousseau, Managing Director of Verallia France.

The Pochet Group has announced that it is working on an ambitious decarbonization plan for the next 10 years, as well as a project to electrify a kiln."With this plan, we are stepping up our efforts to reduce our environmental impact and are making strong commitments to cut our CO2 emissions by more than 40 % by 2030. "said Irène Gosset.

A number of events will be organized throughout the year to raise awareness of glass and the professions associated with this multifaceted material.

Photo: ©Pochet

David Greenberg, new CEO of L'Oréal USA

By
The editorial staff
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David Greenberg is appointed Managing Director of L'Oréal USA, President of the North America zone, and member of the L'Oréal Executive Committee, effective immediately. He succeeds Stéphane Rinderknech, who has decided to pursue his career outside the group.

Currently President of the Professional Products Division in North America, a powerful growth driver, David Greenberg has spent more than 28 years at L'Oréal, where he has held various positions of responsibility across markets, divisions and brands. Most recently, he spearheaded the acceleration and transformation of the Professional Products division's business model in North America. During his five-year tenure, David Greenberg oversaw the development of SalonCentric, accelerated the growth of the business in new channels, and modernized the professional products business to become digital and omnichannel.

Over the course of his career, David Greenberg has built up his knowledge and legitimacy as a leading player in the North American beauty market. He sits on the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the leading trade association representing the cosmetics industry in the United States, and the industry advisory board of the fashion institute of technology (FIT). School of Graduate Studies in Cosmetics & Fragrance Marketing & Management.

Prior to his current position, David Greenberg was President of Maybelline, Garnier and Essie within the Consumer Products Division of L'Oréal USA for eight years, and Brand Marketing Director of L'Oréal Paris for a further six years.

Over the course of his career, he has also been involved in the identification, integration and global expansion of numerous US brand acquisitions, including Pulp Riot, NYX Professional Makeup, Essie and Matrix. Known for his ability to develop and train highly committed teams, David Greenberg undertook the transformation and professionalization of the HR function as Director of Human Resources at L'Oréal USA in 2005, at the time under the presidency of Jean-Paul Agon and Laurent Attal. David Greenberg spent four successful years as head of L'Oréal Mexico's consumer products division.

Nicolas Hieronimus, Managing Director of L'Oréal, said: "Ie've known David for many years. David was one of the architects of L'Oréal's conquest of market leadership in the United States, and he manages the entities under his responsibility with the same entrepreneurial and competitive spirit. He is a talented team builder. I am very proud to appoint the first American to head the North America zone, and to welcome him to our Group Executive Committee. North America is one of our most powerful growth engines, and David is the right person to take our team and our business to new heights. "

David succeeds Stéphane Rinderknech, who has had a long, varied and highly successful career in Japan, South Korea and China. Stéphane has been appointed Managing Director of L'Oréal USA and President of the North America zone in 2019.

Nicolas Hieronimus added: "I take this moment to warmly thank Stéphane for his significant contributions to L'Oréal over the past 20 years, particularly in China and recently in the United States, where he leaves a strong team that will continue to ensure our success in North America."

PAT Group's annual sales in line with its forecasts

By
The editorial staff
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PAT Group's unaudited consolidated sales for fiscal 2021 amounted to €2,304k, up +34 % on 2020. Group sales were in line with forecasts, thanks in particular to Plant Advanced Technologies PAT SA's active cosmetics business and the dynamism of its subsidiaries Couleurs de Plantes and StratiCELL. The Group benefited from the ramp-up of its cosmetics partnership with Clariant, the launch of a cosmetics product with Seppic at Dermophil, and an active ingredient with a luxury goods giant.

Plant Advanced Technologies PAT recorded sales of €1,537k at December 31, 2021, compared with €1,271k in 2020.

For its part, StratiCELL, a Belgium-based subsidiary specializing in in vitro efficacy studies for skin care products, reported sales of €818k to December 31, 2021. This growth is due in particular to a clear upturn in the market in 2021, but is also linked to research and development efforts in areas such as the study of skin microbiota and inflammatory pathologies such as psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and acne. Marketing and sales actions undertaken in the US cosmetics and pharmaceutical markets also contribute to sales growth.

Couleurs de Plantes, a subsidiary based in Rochefort-sur-Mer, is a producer of plant colorants and pigments. Business at Couleurs de Plantes was brisk in 2021, with record sales of 569 k€ at December 31, 2021 since its creation in 2005. In particular, business grew in the cosmetics sector, where demand for natural products is well established. In addition, the textile sector is undergoing profound change, and the use of plant dyes appears to be one of the technical responses to the marketing of less polluting products, opening up excellent prospects.

PAT Zerbaz, a subsidiary based on Reunion Island and specializing in the discovery of active ingredients and rare plant molecules from tropical biodiversity, recorded sales of €482k at December 31, 2021.

Finally, Temisis, a subsidiary based in Vandœuvre-lès-Nancy, is developing a high-potential anti-inflammatory for the treatment of psoriasis. Temisis is working to elucidate the mechanism of action of this "first-in-class" molecule: TEM1657. It is the strongest known regulator of the NFKBIZ target, at the heart of autoimmune inflammatory diseases, a target for which there is as yet no molecule on the market. Temisis recalls that the financing requirement for the Phase 1 clinical trial of its TEM1657 molecule, scheduled for 2023, is between €8 and €10 million, which will be financed by future subscriptions. Essentially focused on R&D, the company does not record any sales.

Cellengo, a subsidiary based in Vandœuvre-lès-Nancy, specializes in the development and production of active ingredients using metabolic engineering and synthetic biology technologies for the Group's nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, agrochemical and cosmetics markets. For the moment, this subsidiary is entirely dedicated to R&D, and does not generate any sales.

What are the short- and medium-term prospects?

According to PAT, the partnership with Clariant should continue to grow in cosmetics, and in pharmaceuticals, the pre-clinical phase of its "first-in-class" TEM1657 molecule is very promising.

In addition, projects are underway in nutraceuticals and agrochemicals, which should provide growth drivers in the next three to five years.

The PAT Group is confident of achieving its growth targets, and in particular of breaking even by 2023.

Cosmogen interprets its expertise in skincare and make-up application

By
The editorial staff
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Cosmogen, world expert in innovative, patented application solutions for cosmetics brands, offers four sets inspired by the four elements and astrological signs, each with an r-PET pouch.

The Air set - Gemini, Libra, Aquarius - is made up of five streamlined, compact brushes, dedicated to make-up and particularly suitable for travel.

The Water set - Cancer, Scorpio, Pisces - also includes five brushes and accessories, with FSC wood handles, designed for facial care: cleansing, mask, application, massage.

The Fire set - Aries, Leo, Sagittarius - is made up of eight brushes and accessories with FSC wooden handles too, for perfect, all-round make-up, complexion, eyes and eyelids.

Last but not least, the four brushes and accessories in the Earth set - Taurus, Virgo, Capricorn - mainly made of bamboo and FSC wood, are designed for a daily routine to keep skin healthy and comfortable, naturally.

Cosmed and the H.E. consortium mobilize for certified organic essential oils

By
The editorial staff
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All organic essential oils (EO) can now be certified "AB", without any condition of alimentarity.

The entry into force on January 1, 2022 of the new European organic farming regulation (EU regulation no. 2018/848) has extended the possibility of AB (organic farming) certification to essential oils (pure or a blend of pure EOs) not intended for human consumption.

The "organic" claim for all pure essential oils or blends of pure essential oils is now authorized exclusively for those certified according to the European AB regulation, and no longer according to private specifications only (e.g. Cosmos, organic home fragrances...).

Cosmed and the H.E. Consortium request a transition period

As Regulation (EU) No. 2018/848 does not provide for any transition period for products falling within its scope, Cosmed and the HE Consortium have applied to the competent authorities (Inao and DGCCRF) to request a transition period for all non-food organic essential oils, which are currently certified with private standards.

At the request of the authorities, a national survey is conducted by Cosmed among producers and marketers (suppliers/manufacturers/subcontractors/distributors) of organic non-food EOs (pure or blends of pure EOs). This data is essential for assessing current stocks. The online survey is open until March 8, 2022.

Online survey

Marketers of products containing Organic essential oils in addition to other ingredients are not affected by Regulation (EU) No. 2018/848, and therefore are not concerned by this survey either.

As of now, all producers and marketers of pure organic non-food EO or blends of pure EO are strongly encouraged to register with an inspection body as soon as possible.

To complete the survey, simply follow these steps this link.

For more information:
www.cosmed.fr
www.consortium-he.org

Berkem Group and Unipex announce a collaboration agreement

By
Kristel Milet
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The Berkem group, a leading player in plant-based chemistry, and Unipex, one of the benchmark players in the specialty distribution market, have announced an exclusive distribution agreement in France for the entire cosmetics range of Berkem, the plant extraction subsidiary of the eponymous group. The aim is to accelerate the Berkem group's development in a fast-growing market by drawing on the expertise of a recognized player. 
 
Meeting market demand
Berkem caters for the cosmetics, food and nutraceutical markets, offering a product catalog of almost 40 products - divided into 3 categories: active ingredients (solid, liquid and technological), botanical extracts and floral waters. Growing demand in a highly dynamic market, coupled with strategic thinking on the part of the Berkem Group, led to the merger with Unipex. This "smart distributor" of specialty ingredients, present in 5 markets (pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, nutraceuticals, food and chemicals), will benefit from the presence of its teams in France, serving over 450 customers, and from a team of 20 people for the cosmetics division. By complementing the range distributed by Unipex, Berkem is positioning itself to meet strong market expectations, such as organic, local and upcycling products.

" This agreement is in line with our desire to project ourselves commercially into the future in our various territories, by relying on business experts. In addition to our ability to accelerate the distribution of our product ranges, Unipex shares the same values as our Group, particularly in terms of CSR and our approach to the cosmetics business. " says Éric Moussu, Sales Director of the Berkem Group..
 
" We are delighted to be able to draw on over 50 years of expertise in the distribution of specialty ingredients to represent the Berkem Group on the French market. As a partner, our mission will also be to support BERKEM's teams, particularly in marketing, CSR and the development of guidance formulas. " says Valérie Lepoultel, Director of Unipex's Cosmetics BU..
 

A new active ingredient to reduce enlarged pores.

By
The editorial staff
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Givaudan Active Beauty introduces Neoporyl, an active ingredient that reduces the size of dilated pores by targeting the underlying biological causes of parakeratosis, an alteration in epidermal structure, and dermal fragility. This new active ingredient is formulated by biocatalysis to be effective against dilated pores in just one week.

Beauty product consumers of all ages, genders and skin types commonly complain about enlarged pores. Perceived as a sign of premature aging, pore size has become as important a concern as fine lines and wrinkles. Such is the importance of this issue for skincare consumers that a new term has been coined to describe the fixation on pore size: "porexia".

Strongly influenced by genetics1 and environmental factors, dilated pores are caused by two main factors: parakeratosis and dermal fragility. Neoporyl effectively counteracts these two key biological causes, according to Givaudan Active Beauty.

Mathias Fleury, category manager for Active Beauty, said: "Our experts in cutaneous physiology and white biotechnology have designed Neoporyl, an innovative complex based on a biomimetic energy source and key amino acids, to address the biological phenomena of parakeratosis and cutaneous fragility. Our active ingredient is capable of limiting hyperdifferentiation of the epidermis, reducing the density of nucleated cells in the stratum corneum, restoring collagen production in the fragile dermis, and boosting the production of mature collagen and decorin."

According to Givaudan Active Beauty, clinical tests demonstrated a significant reduction in pore size in Caucasian women in just two weeks for all volunteers, regardless of age range, and with increasing efficacy over the two-month trial period, up to -24% versus placebo. Similar benefits were seen in Asian men, with a significant effect on pore size in just one week, up to 2.4 times better than placebo, with a further improvement in skin appearance.

  1. Wang S. et al - J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc. 2018;19(2):S101 -S102

Albéa's HDPE single-material tube and cap have just been officially certified as recyclable.

By
Kristel Milet
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Following recognition by RecyClass (Plastics Recyclers Europe) last year, the American version of the HDPE single-material tube and cap has now been officially recognized by the Association of Plastic Recyclers (APR). The tube is now compatible with HDPE bottle recycling channels.
"Making all our tubes ready for recycling is the first step on the road to circularity," says Gilles Swyngedauw, Vice President CSR and Innovation at Albéa. "This official recognition will now accelerate the process, enabling brands to transition their portfolios and helping them to meet their public commitments to sustainability." 
The tube consists of a lightweight, white, single-material structure joined to an HDPE shoulder. The cap is a single-material service cap based on a patented technology using a blown extruded HDPE reference. The tube is compatible with the Greenleaf 2 laminate tube.

Ilaria Resta awarded by the Cosmetic Executive Women

By
The editorial staff
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Ilaria Resta, President of Firmenich Parfumerie Monde, has been awarded the CEW Achiever 2022 prize by the professional organization Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW). The CEW, which has 10,500 members from 3,500 beauty companies worldwide, awards this prestigious prize each year to celebrate the most outstanding female achievements in the industry.

Formerly of Procter & Gamble, Ilaria Resta was appointed in March 2020. She is the first and only woman to hold the position of World President among the major fragrance houses. An active member of Firmenich's Executive Committee, she has led a major transformation program in the fragrance sector. Her new vision, "Positive Perfumery", is to make fragrances a positive force for the well-being of consumers and the health of the planet. It has made diversity and women's leadership one of its top priorities. Firmenich is the seventh company in the world, and the first in the fragrance industry, to be certified globally as a Gender Equality Employer by EDGE, the leading global standard for corporate certification of gender equality in the workplace.

Gilbert Ghostine, CEO of Firmenich, said: "I am absolutely delighted that Ilaria has received such a prestigious award. She achieves remarkable results thanks to her clear strategic vision, deep understanding of distributors and inspiring organizational leadership. A true pioneer, she is a passionate advocate of supporting and promoting women in business, a cause particularly close to her heart. Ilaria has been the driving force behind the great steps Firmenich has taken to ensure that its workplace enables women to flourish and reach their full potential, and she personally makes diversity and belonging a priority."

Ilaria Resta has put in place a number of strategies to enable women to take on leadership roles:

  • It has recently recruited several talented new women to its management team, including Robin Mason, VP Fine Fragrances, North America; Patricia Nogueira, VP Fine Fragrances, Latin America; and Levenza Toh, VP Fragrances, Southeast Asia, Japan and Korea.
  • She has created a formal mentoring program in which she personally supports the Group's young talent.
  • She sponsored an employee wellness program and personally shared her experiences of managing mental well-being.

Ilaria Resta commented: "I am honored to receive this award in recognition of my professional achievements and my impact on talent development. I have great respect for CEW, an organization dedicated to removing barriers to women's advancement and equal opportunity. I'm humbled to join the many inspiring women who have won this award before me, and I'd like to congratulate the talented women honored alongside me this year. I'm proud to work at Firmenich with an accomplished team of creatives, scientists and business leaders from around the world, and I'm excited about what lies ahead. We're transforming the future of fragrance, creating a new product portfolio focused on health, wellness and sustainability, built on a foundation of creativity, innovation, data and technology. I want to contribute to the creation of a new ecosystem, which includes our strategic partners and suppliers, and together produce a greater impact on equality and inclusivity."

The award will be presented at the Live Women's Leadership 2022 Awards Luncheon, a ceremony organized by the WEG in New York on June 2, 2022.

The three exhibitions of Paris Packaging Week, ADF&PCD and PLD, will take place on June 29 & 30, 2022 at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles

By
Kristel Milet
-

The colorful and dynamic new identity of ADF&PCD and PLD Paris unveiled last December opens a new chapter for the world's leading event for packaging innovation in the beauty, premium beverage and aerosol sectors. The new design reinforces the identity of the individual events for their markets, and aligns Easyfairs packaging events for the premium and luxury markets in London, Paris and Milan. 

" Paris Packaging Week, the unique summer event and strategic reference for packaging industry professionals, will be back in Paris, in person. A long-awaited opportunity to get together, exchange ideas, develop business, present innovations and - at last - share moments of conviviality. "confirms Josh Brooks, Director of Paris Packaging Week. 

" Paris Packaging Week and the new identities of ADF, PCD and PLD will create a new experience, both at face-to-face events and throughout the year via our digital channels, for all those involved in packaging innovation. "says Renan Joel, Division Manager for Easyfairs' packaging exhibitions in the UK, France, Italy and Switzerland. 

In addition to the three separate shows, which will host a total of over 650 exhibitors, the 2022 edition of Paris Packaging Week will offer a series of highlights designed to inspire the packaging community:
A prestigious program of conferences and round tables with top industry experts in attendance. 
- Networking solutions to facilitate exchanges and collaborations between brands and suppliers 
- Hundreds of new products and innovations offered by packaging solution providers 
- Innovation Awards 2022 trophy ceremonies which will vote for and reward the most outstanding packaging of 2021 on the international market. New this year, the competing products will be showcased in a dedicated gallery at the heart of the show. 
- The prestigious Pentawards Gallerythe first international packaging design competition. 

Registration is now open.

 

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