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Naolys, EcoVadis gold medal

Naolys, a specialist in cell culture-based active ingredients for the cosmetics industry, has been awarded the EcoVadis Gold Medal for 2021. The EcoVadis rating agency assesses the integration of corporate social responsibility (CSR) principles into all activities, at both social and environmental levels. This medal ranks Naolys among the top 5 % CSR performers rated by EcoVadis.

"We are very pleased with this rating, which demonstrates the efforts made by all our teams to take into account new objectives and strengthen our relationships with our stakeholders. We intend to continue along this path, inspired by our biotechnology, which is at the very origin of Naolys".says Naolys CEO Rachid Ennamany.

Naolys is an independent French company specializing in the development of active ingredients for the cosmetics industry, manufactured in Gironde using plant cell culture. Founded in 2003, it operates in France and the rest of the world via an extensive dedicated distribution network. Committed to protecting the environment and biodiversity, Naolys offers a range of active ingredients compliant with Cosmos Naturel standards.

Verpack supports the growth of a food industry player

The "Les chocolats de Pauline" range marks a new chapter for Saveurs & Nature and its organic chocolates. In 2020, the company, already present in over 25 countries, decided to relaunch the brand "Les chocolats de Pauline" with a new, natural packaging to highlight the 100 % organic characteristics of the products. The Verpack group joins the adventure. It took charge of all the packaging for the range, from the individual box to the Advent calendar, i.e. over 40 references. A challenge met in a premium and responsible spirit in keeping with the pillars of the company.

Working alongside the brand, the Verpack group has managed the packaging development of the entire Pauline range, in line with its eco-design values. The entire range is made from uncoated cardboard sourced from sustainably managed forests. The creative papers are from the Fredrigoni collection. The multi-hued decors are hot-stamped. Further information with two questions to Verpack...

Are there any industrial differences in the way your gift sets are produced?

Not fundamentally, but when it comes to gourmet boxes, we pay close attention to two additional points. The olfactory neutrality of the box (not polluting the chocolates with the smell of cardboard, ink, varnish or glue). Food safety certificates for the box's components, if in direct contact with the product, and HACCP certification, if requested by the customer. In all cases, a risk analysis is required.

Cross-innovation between food and cosmetics does exist. But in what direction does it operate for the Verpack Group?

In both directions, innovation in one sector can obviously benefit another. This is often the case between cosmetics and wines & spirits...

More on the web : www.verpack.fr

Texen launches a collection of refillable pallets

The Texen group is committed to offering brands innovative, responsible solutions that promote the ecological transition of packaging. In its Be Green collection, Texen Beauty Partners is adding a range of refillable make-up palettes, as well as a collection of customizable suedes. 

With these developments, Texen is targeting key areas of the circular economy: the choice of bio-sourced materials and a new approach to product life cycles.

A durable casing

Intended for pressed powders for complexion and eye make-up, Texen Beauty Partners' new collection comprises three pallet models available in standard sizes. Their concept is based on a system of magnetized cups into which removable formula refills are inserted. The cup is easily removed from its housing thanks to a tiny perforation on the back of the case, into which a thin metal rod is simply inserted.

With this functionality, brands can initiate various modes of consumption: a refillable, customizable palette that could be sold in a box, accompanied by several powder refills (blush, sun, foundation). Finally, this product could be the perfect candidate for mix and match: consumers buy an empty palette and compose it with their favorite colors, in-store or online.

Raw materials

This collection can be produced in virgin or recycled materials, but above all in bio PET made from sugarcane waste. Composed of recycled waste (20 %) and virgin PET plastic (80 %), Bio PET significantly reduces the use of fossil fuels. What's more, it limits technical constraints during the processing phase, and is more respectful of the rendering of delicate shades such as white (compared with RPET-type recycled materials).

A good impression

This pallet model is suitable for several types of printing: silk-screening, hot stamping or even digital printing, an ideal technique for giving relief to decorations and precision to details.

On the design side, in addition to a printed exterior, the mirror or pressed powders can also be customized (logo, motif...).

The bonus that packs a punch

Texen Beauty Partners has designed a collection of suedettes as an added value to its range of make-up, palettes, compacts, lipsticks, applicators and more. The pouches are made from RPET. They are available in velvet, cotton canvas or flannel, and in all shades, for exclusive hot stamping decorations.

IFF announces two appointments to its Fine Fragrances team

IFF announces the arrival of David Suffit-Reedman as Director of its Fine Fragrance Creative Center in Neuilly-sur-Seine. With ten years spent in olfactory development at L'Oréal as part of the olfactory cell (Ralph Lauren, YSL, Armani), then in a perfume house as head of development, David will bring to IFF his understanding of the challenges of creation, both technical and creative. In his new role, he will be responsible for the following departments Scent Design Managersand Technology and Innovation for the Neuilly creative center. 

Evelyne Da Silva has been appointed Creative Director of Fine Fragrances at IFF in Neuilly-sur-Seine. A graduate of ISIPCA who joined IFF in 1992, Evelyne has worked for 30 years on the olfactory development of numerous international success stories, most recently as Senior Scent Design Group Manager (evaluation). Evelyne will be responsible for the fine fragrance team and IFF's operations in Neuilly. She takes over from Catherine Bru, who is retiring after a brilliant career and more than 30 years with IFF. 

Cosmogen dresses Caudalie's Premier Cru eye cream

Caudalie has chosen Cosmogen's new Tube Tense for its Premier Cru eye cream. 

Caudalie's promise for this cream: illuminate the eyes and correct eight age markers, without compromise: crow's feet, puffiness, lip wrinkles, fine lines, dark circles, nutrition, hydration, radiance. 

One of its key features is a massaging tip that "decongests, smoothes and reduces puffiness for visibly younger-looking eyes". A removable tip that illustrates Caudalie's commitment to eco-responsibility.

Cosmogen's Tube Tense is a patented packaging, available in recycled plastic, with a removable and reusable applicator. It has been designed in line with Cosmogen's three key development principles: sustainability, safety and expertise.

500,000 grant awarded to Global Bioenergies by the Grand Est Region

Global Bioenergies has been awarded a grant of 500,000 euros to complete construction of the Pomacle unit and launch sales to the cosmetics industry.

Global Bioenergies - which has developed an innovative process for converting plant resources into a family of compounds used in cosmetics - announced last spring the decision to build a production unit on the Pomacle site, near Reims. The first phase of work was launched in the summer of 2021, and will enable production to start as early as March 2022.

The second phase of work will enable the plant to reach full capacity, producing around 100 tonnes a year of isobutene, the derivatives of which will be targeted at the make-up market, the first market selected by the company because of its high prices.

The financial support of the Grand Est Region, via a grant of 500,000 euros as part of the Plan France Relance, covers half of the second phase of construction of this industrial facility, and strengthens the historic links between Global Bioenergies and the Grand Est region. It contributes to the dynamism of the local industrial fabric through investment in innovative production tools.

Marc Delcourt, General Manager, comments: "We would like to thank the Grand Est Region for its invaluable support. Our Last brand has pushed back the boundaries of naturalness in make-up, and the upcoming launch of this new industrial tool will enable us to respond to the quest for naturalness by the major players in cosmetics."

Samuel Dubruque, Administrative and Financial Director, adds: " At the same time, we're working on obtaining other, larger-scale public funding: beyond cosmetics, our technology can be used for numerous applications in materials and fuels. In particular, the decarbonization of air transport is one of France's 10 priority objectives: our process stands out radically from other technical options, and has the potential to be one of the most competitive in the world."

Congress COMET (Measurement & Testing) - 5-6 July 2022: call for abstracts

Submit your abstract and become speaker for the 4th edition of the CO.ME.T congress co-organized by the COSMETIC VALLEY competitiveness cluster and CY Cergy-Paris University

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The 4th edition of the CO.ME.T congress co-organized by the COSMETIC VALLEY competitiveness cluster and CY Cergy-Paris University is an exceptional tool for scientific communication and training.
 
The development of new high-performance test tools becomes an innovation challenge in cosmetic and perfumery industry in order to increase and certify the quality and performance of tomorrow's cosmetic products.
 
Scientific communications, plenary conferences and experimental demonstrations will explore new solutions, sources of innovation and development for players in the two sectors: measurement & cosmetics.

Submit your work before February 15th and be part of the oral presentations that will be selected from the call for abstracts.

For the dissemination of the presented studies and results, the COMET 2022 is labeled by IEEE in order to be able to publish the submitted articles in a special issue after reviewing.

TOPICS

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From raw materials to finished products

What are the new assessment and evaluation methods able to analyze and monitor cosmetic materials, from the raw materials to the finished product?

#delivery #bioavailability #quality #integrity #encapsulation #naturality #ecodesign #ecotoxicity #environmental impact #proof of efficacy #polymers

image 1- Sponsored content - Market info

Skin-product-environment interactions 

How new efficacy and safety in-vitro, in vivo and ex-vivo skin models enable detection and characterization of particles in tissues?

#microbiota #pollution #absorption #communication #environmentalmonitoring #skin barrier function #holistic approach #exposome #free radicals #UV #Experimental #analytical #non-invasive tools

image 2- Sponsored content - Market info

Instrumentation and sensory evaluation

From physical measurement to cognitive science, how to optimize the product at early stages, before panel tests?

#perception #product-skin interactions #sensoryanalysis, #emotion #appearance #texture #rheology #sensory metrology #neurosciences #communication brain skin

image 3- Sponsored content - Market info

Smart and connected beauty tools for customization

For diagnostic purposes, what are the latest AI and smart tools advances that can be adapted and developed for the cosmetics science?

#embedded sensors #digital #artificial intelligence #biometrics #virtualreality #augmentedreality #virtualdiagnosis #bigdata #IOT #Modeling #Simulation #Predictive analytics #electronic tools #at home follow-up/diagnosis/measures

Ciment soap factory raises €300k in financing

Founded in 2019 by Solène Lebon-Couturier and Jeremy Emsellem, Ciment soap factory raises 300,000 euros to expand its concept and accelerate growth. Following the opening of its second 120m2 soap factory in the heart of Bordeaux in September 2021, Ciment is setting out to conquer France.

The fruit of a meeting between Solène Lebon-Couturier and Jeremy Emsellem, who share a vision of consuming better, more locally and more responsibly, Ciment offers handmade cold-saponified soaps made from organic ingredients, without allergens or essential oils. All soaps are handmade, "for a simple product that respects the skin and the environment, with particular care given to the design of each soap."

"Instead of building one big factory, we want to develop micro-savonneries throughout the country, make them semi-independent, and offer a hybrid model to franchising. It's time to revisit the great divide between ultra-capitalist franchises and aging cooperatives," say the founders. We're not just an artisan soap factory, we're the future of cosmetics.say the company's founders.

Solène Lebon-Couturier and Jeremy Emsellem are also proud, in this digital age, to be at the helm of physical spaces and living places that welcome the public to discover this craft.

Their goal: to become the benchmark for solid cosmetics, with high-quality products. Above all, we want to develop the quality of our products, rather than sales," say Solène Lebon-Couturier and Jeremy Emsellem. In an increasingly competitive market, it's no longer enough to say you make an eco-friendly product to sell. Consumers have become more demanding, so you need a high-quality, easy-to-use product that does the job. This is a very positive development, as greenwashing used to be found around every corner. Each product is tested by a demanding community. What's more, we meet our customers on a daily basis, in our own boutiques or during our soap-making initiation workshops.

This first round of financing will also enable the soap-maker to hire R&D staff. "This is currently done in-house, in our laboratories, says a delighted Solène Lebon-Couturier, in charge of production and R&D. At the start of this year, we're launching a hair care range, body soaps, a brilliant but currently undisclosed collaboration and a household soap."

The high-end challenge

Present in department stores such as Printemps and La Samaritaine, the brand aims to expand its network of 250 retailers and open up other high-end markets: "We're doing tests in pharmacies, hotels and hairdressing salons".say Solène Lebon-Couturier and Jeremy Emsellem.

The Ciment soap factory has a high-end image which, according to the brand, differentiates it from its DNVB (Digital Native Vertical Brand) competitors. For their part, the new DNVB brands are evangelizing on social networks and via crowdfunding campaigns, and pushing the solid into bathrooms. "We're not competitors, we have the same goal".says Jeremy Emsellem. 

Doing the best we can while creating regional jobs

Ciment also means "made in" for each city. In Paris, customers buy made in Paris. In Bordeaux, they buy made in Bordeaux! Ciment trains soap-makers and creates jobs. For the Bordeaux opening last September, two soap-makers were trained to take charge of the Bordeaux laboratory.  

Ciment is the fruit of a meeting between Solène and Jérémy, who share a vision of consuming better, more locally and more responsibly. It was around this commitment that they developed Ciment, handcrafted cold-saponified soaps made from organic ingredients, without allergens or essential oils. They are all handmade, for a simple product that respects the skin and the environment, with particular care given to the design of each soap.

www.ciment.paris

A Cosmos Organic-certified loose powder makeup range

Nuwen, a manufacturer of finished cosmetic products and natural functional ingredients for nutrition-health, cosmetics and environmental solutions worldwide, will be presenting its new Cosmos Organic-certified loose powder make-up formulas at Makeup in Los Angeles on February 23 and 24. The range, comprising a tinted mattifying loose powder, a blush powder and a matte finish loose powder, has a clinically proven mattifying effect.

After launching a loose powder make-up range in 2021, Nuwen is now offering its Cosmos Organic-certified version. The minimalist formulas, with their rigorously selected ingredients, are created according to drastic specifications, meeting today's demands for naturalness and safety, without compromising on efficacy.

All the formulas in the range contain no talc, mica, titanium dioxide or silica. They are also fragrance-free, preservative-free and made from 100% ingredients of natural origin. All formulas are made in France and adapted to the Vegan positioning.

The products also have a clinically proven mattifying effect.

Four natural active ingredients

The products in the loose powder range are formulated with four active ingredients of natural origin: Lithothamnion, a fossilized red seaweed with moisturizing and mattifying properties; certified organic apioca starch, an absorbent powder with a silky feel; mineral kaolin, a white clay known for its mattifying action; and natural pigments coated with avocado oil, with emollient properties that ensure long-lasting makeup hold.

Long-lasting make-up

The mattifying loose powder is available in 10 shades for four different skin tones: light, medium, olive and dark. It provides light coverage for a natural, even, matte finish.

Available in peach or raspberry, Nuwen says powder blush gives a natural, healthy-glow effect while sculpting the face. It blends easily to modulate color intensity for a customized result.

Thanks to its universal shade, the matte finish loose powder is transparent and adapts to all skin tones. It reduces skin shine for a mattifying effect.

Matifying action

Nuwen has carried out a test in an independent laboratory to clinically prove the mattifying effectiveness of the Cosmos Organic loose powder make-up range.

According to the company, the results of an instrumental test demonstrate a mattifying effect for up to four hours, with skin shine reduced by 62 % one hour after application and 49% after four hours.

Lipoid Kosmetik offers a plant-based alternative to collagen

Collagen is the structural biopolymer of animals and one of the most popular active ingredients in the anti-aging and moisturizing categories of cosmetics. Yet collagen is derived from animal or synthetic sources, which runs counter to current cosmetics trends that are moving away from raw materials of animal or artificial origin in favor of sustainable plant-based alternatives.

Lipoid Kosmetik, manufacturer of high-quality botanical extracts, active ingredients and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industries, offers a natural alternative derived from acacia.

With PhytoCollagen, the company offers a Cosmos-certified, vegan and sustainable solution, with a number of benefits for the user, in particular an improvement in the skin's structural and age-related parameters (anti-aging) and an improvement in skin hydration.

"PhytoCollagen responds perfectly to consumer demand, with plant-derived collagen clearly preferred to animal or synthetic collagen. At the same time, PhytoCollagen is a functional substitute that fully mimics the cosmetic benefits of animal-derived collagen, making it perfectly suited to the modern, beauty-conscious consumer."says Lipoid Kosmetik.

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