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Congress COMET (Measurement & Testing) - 5-6 July 2022: call for abstracts

Submit your abstract and become speaker for the 4th edition of the CO.ME.T congress co-organized by the COSMETIC VALLEY competitiveness cluster and CY Cergy-Paris University

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The 4th edition of the CO.ME.T congress co-organized by the COSMETIC VALLEY competitiveness cluster and CY Cergy-Paris University is an exceptional tool for scientific communication and training.
 
The development of new high-performance test tools becomes an innovation challenge in cosmetic and perfumery industry in order to increase and certify the quality and performance of tomorrow's cosmetic products.
 
Scientific communications, plenary conferences and experimental demonstrations will explore new solutions, sources of innovation and development for players in the two sectors: measurement & cosmetics.

Submit your work before February 15th and be part of the oral presentations that will be selected from the call for abstracts.

For the dissemination of the presented studies and results, the COMET 2022 is labeled by IEEE in order to be able to publish the submitted articles in a special issue after reviewing.

TOPICS

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From raw materials to finished products

What are the new assessment and evaluation methods able to analyze and monitor cosmetic materials, from the raw materials to the finished product?

#delivery #bioavailability #quality #integrity #encapsulation #naturality #ecodesign #ecotoxicity #environmental impact #proof of efficacy #polymers

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Skin-product-environment interactions 

How new efficacy and safety in-vitro, in vivo and ex-vivo skin models enable detection and characterization of particles in tissues?

#microbiota #pollution #absorption #communication #environmentalmonitoring #skin barrier function #holistic approach #exposome #free radicals #UV #Experimental #analytical #non-invasive tools

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Instrumentation and sensory evaluation

From physical measurement to cognitive science, how to optimize the product at early stages, before panel tests?

#perception #product-skin interactions #sensoryanalysis, #emotion #appearance #texture #rheology #sensory metrology #neurosciences #communication brain skin

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Smart and connected beauty tools for customization

For diagnostic purposes, what are the latest AI and smart tools advances that can be adapted and developed for the cosmetics science?

#embedded sensors #digital #artificial intelligence #biometrics #virtualreality #augmentedreality #virtualdiagnosis #bigdata #IOT #Modeling #Simulation #Predictive analytics #electronic tools #at home follow-up/diagnosis/measures

Ciment soap factory raises €300k in financing

Founded in 2019 by Solène Lebon-Couturier and Jeremy Emsellem, Ciment soap factory raises 300,000 euros to expand its concept and accelerate growth. Following the opening of its second 120m2 soap factory in the heart of Bordeaux in September 2021, Ciment is setting out to conquer France.

The fruit of a meeting between Solène Lebon-Couturier and Jeremy Emsellem, who share a vision of consuming better, more locally and more responsibly, Ciment offers handmade cold-saponified soaps made from organic ingredients, without allergens or essential oils. All soaps are handmade, "for a simple product that respects the skin and the environment, with particular care given to the design of each soap."

"Instead of building one big factory, we want to develop micro-savonneries throughout the country, make them semi-independent, and offer a hybrid model to franchising. It's time to revisit the great divide between ultra-capitalist franchises and aging cooperatives," say the founders. We're not just an artisan soap factory, we're the future of cosmetics.say the company's founders.

Solène Lebon-Couturier and Jeremy Emsellem are also proud, in this digital age, to be at the helm of physical spaces and living places that welcome the public to discover this craft.

Their goal: to become the benchmark for solid cosmetics, with high-quality products. Above all, we want to develop the quality of our products, rather than sales," say Solène Lebon-Couturier and Jeremy Emsellem. In an increasingly competitive market, it's no longer enough to say you make an eco-friendly product to sell. Consumers have become more demanding, so you need a high-quality, easy-to-use product that does the job. This is a very positive development, as greenwashing used to be found around every corner. Each product is tested by a demanding community. What's more, we meet our customers on a daily basis, in our own boutiques or during our soap-making initiation workshops.

This first round of financing will also enable the soap-maker to hire R&D staff. "This is currently done in-house, in our laboratories, says a delighted Solène Lebon-Couturier, in charge of production and R&D. At the start of this year, we're launching a hair care range, body soaps, a brilliant but currently undisclosed collaboration and a household soap."

The high-end challenge

Present in department stores such as Printemps and La Samaritaine, the brand aims to expand its network of 250 retailers and open up other high-end markets: "We're doing tests in pharmacies, hotels and hairdressing salons".say Solène Lebon-Couturier and Jeremy Emsellem.

The Ciment soap factory has a high-end image which, according to the brand, differentiates it from its DNVB (Digital Native Vertical Brand) competitors. For their part, the new DNVB brands are evangelizing on social networks and via crowdfunding campaigns, and pushing the solid into bathrooms. "We're not competitors, we have the same goal".says Jeremy Emsellem. 

Doing the best we can while creating regional jobs

Ciment also means "made in" for each city. In Paris, customers buy made in Paris. In Bordeaux, they buy made in Bordeaux! Ciment trains soap-makers and creates jobs. For the Bordeaux opening last September, two soap-makers were trained to take charge of the Bordeaux laboratory.  

Ciment is the fruit of a meeting between Solène and Jérémy, who share a vision of consuming better, more locally and more responsibly. It was around this commitment that they developed Ciment, handcrafted cold-saponified soaps made from organic ingredients, without allergens or essential oils. They are all handmade, for a simple product that respects the skin and the environment, with particular care given to the design of each soap.

www.ciment.paris

A Cosmos Organic-certified loose powder makeup range

Nuwen, a manufacturer of finished cosmetic products and natural functional ingredients for nutrition-health, cosmetics and environmental solutions worldwide, will be presenting its new Cosmos Organic-certified loose powder make-up formulas at Makeup in Los Angeles on February 23 and 24. The range, comprising a tinted mattifying loose powder, a blush powder and a matte finish loose powder, has a clinically proven mattifying effect.

After launching a loose powder make-up range in 2021, Nuwen is now offering its Cosmos Organic-certified version. The minimalist formulas, with their rigorously selected ingredients, are created according to drastic specifications, meeting today's demands for naturalness and safety, without compromising on efficacy.

All the formulas in the range contain no talc, mica, titanium dioxide or silica. They are also fragrance-free, preservative-free and made from 100% ingredients of natural origin. All formulas are made in France and adapted to the Vegan positioning.

The products also have a clinically proven mattifying effect.

Four natural active ingredients

The products in the loose powder range are formulated with four active ingredients of natural origin: Lithothamnion, a fossilized red seaweed with moisturizing and mattifying properties; certified organic apioca starch, an absorbent powder with a silky feel; mineral kaolin, a white clay known for its mattifying action; and natural pigments coated with avocado oil, with emollient properties that ensure long-lasting makeup hold.

Long-lasting make-up

The mattifying loose powder is available in 10 shades for four different skin tones: light, medium, olive and dark. It provides light coverage for a natural, even, matte finish.

Available in peach or raspberry, Nuwen says powder blush gives a natural, healthy-glow effect while sculpting the face. It blends easily to modulate color intensity for a customized result.

Thanks to its universal shade, the matte finish loose powder is transparent and adapts to all skin tones. It reduces skin shine for a mattifying effect.

Matifying action

Nuwen has carried out a test in an independent laboratory to clinically prove the mattifying effectiveness of the Cosmos Organic loose powder make-up range.

According to the company, the results of an instrumental test demonstrate a mattifying effect for up to four hours, with skin shine reduced by 62 % one hour after application and 49% after four hours.

Lipoid Kosmetik offers a plant-based alternative to collagen

Collagen is the structural biopolymer of animals and one of the most popular active ingredients in the anti-aging and moisturizing categories of cosmetics. Yet collagen is derived from animal or synthetic sources, which runs counter to current cosmetics trends that are moving away from raw materials of animal or artificial origin in favor of sustainable plant-based alternatives.

Lipoid Kosmetik, manufacturer of high-quality botanical extracts, active ingredients and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industries, offers a natural alternative derived from acacia.

With PhytoCollagen, the company offers a Cosmos-certified, vegan and sustainable solution, with a number of benefits for the user, in particular an improvement in the skin's structural and age-related parameters (anti-aging) and an improvement in skin hydration.

"PhytoCollagen responds perfectly to consumer demand, with plant-derived collagen clearly preferred to animal or synthetic collagen. At the same time, PhytoCollagen is a functional substitute that fully mimics the cosmetic benefits of animal-derived collagen, making it perfectly suited to the modern, beauty-conscious consumer."says Lipoid Kosmetik.

Coverpla, on board with FiiLiT travel fragrances

Coverpla has embarked on the adventure of alternative perfume brand FiiLiT, developing a refillable version of a bottle from its catalog and a decor available in 14 references.
Surya, Mazhar, Amante, Joli Coeur, each of these 14 fragrances tells a powerful story, a quest that the brand's globe-trotters have experienced around the world. Andalusia, India, Atlas, Amazonia... they brought back from these incredible destinations the essence and magic that gave birth to this travel collection. Régis, the creator of FiiLiT, wanted it to be respectful of Man and his environment. His value chain is proof of this.

Refillable packaging

For this development, the brand selected the Cara bottle (50 ml) offered by Coverpla for its simply beautiful shape and good grip. It features a screw ring for refillability. These major assets make it both nomadic and long-lasting. Coverpla also created the silk-screened decorations for all 14 references. The brand also selected a wooden cap colored to match each fragrance.

Cosmetic products: industrial solutions

Renata Bartekova, product expert and sales director at Adelphi Manufacturing, talks about the challenges facing European cosmetics and skincare manufacturers.

You've been in the industry for over 20 years. What advice would you give to companies wishing to invest in filling machines?

For companies of all sizes, from craftsmen to multinationals, compliance is essential! Increasing regional and international legislation has been accompanied by stricter questioning of hygiene practices. It's never too early to start, and machine suppliers are an excellent place to start.

You mentioned that hygiene is an area that receives particular attention. How does this relate to the filling process for cosmetics and personal care products, and what advice would you give to manufacturers?

When manufacturing dermatological products and products used in sensitive areas such as around the eyes and mouth, it's essential to invest in filling machines built from hygienic, durable materials such as stainless steel. Some suppliers use less expensive construction, and while the initial price difference may suggest that this is a good deal, in the long run it will prove to be a false economy.
Machine parts that come into contact with the product (so-called "wet" parts) must be made of pharmaceutical-grade 316L stainless steel, PTFE and Viton to ensure that no contamination occurs.
You also need to make sure you take into account the time needed to thoroughly clean the machine as often as necessary - filling machines that are quick and easy to dismantle will give an advantage, as the longer the cleaning process takes, the more money is lost in production downtime.

What would you say to cosmetics and personal care manufacturers looking to increase production without overloading their resources?

Due to the pandemic, many industries around the world are experiencing exponential growth, forcing manufacturers to rapidly increase their production capacity. However, taking the filling process from semi-automated to fully automated can be a daunting prospect, with many automated filling lines costing upwards of €60,000 upfront!
At Adelphi Manufacturing, we have developed our "Response" range of scalable machines to solve this problem. The entry-level Benchtop Filler integrates into the automated solutions of the same range, enabling capacity to be increased as required, without rendering the initial investment obsolete. The Benchtop Filler can be separated at any time, if a return to smaller batch production is required.

What about craft businesses operating from smaller premises? Is there a viable growth option for them too?

Absolutely! Just as we saw with cell phone technology in the 2000s, cushioning technology has grown in sophistication while shrinking in size. A good example is a monoblock solution, which integrates both a filler and a capper around a small star, in a compact footprint (as little as 112 cm wide x 81 cm deep). This overcomes the more demanding space requirements of a linear filling and capping line.
Maximizing the achievable output of production space is essential in any business, whatever its size, in order to generate the highest possible revenue. Fully processing up to 16,000 containers per eight-hour shift, a monobloc proves that limited space certainly doesn't mean limited production!

With sustainable manufacturing at the forefront of everyone's minds, what advice would you give to companies looking to source their equipment responsibly?

I insist that environmentally-friendly investment has never been more important; for the survival of the planet and every company. The Internet makes product comparisons fast and efficient, so that consumers can question every aspect of product and process before deciding to make a purchase. Sustainability credentials are now a primary decision-making factor for customers purchasing cosmetics, skincare and other personal care and hygiene products.
The choice of equipment supplier will send a strong and clear message about the company's commitment to sustainable development; this can help or harm its reputation, and therefore its bottom line.

We often hear of companies that want to become more sustainable themselves, but don't know where to start. What first steps would you recommend?

For companies of all sizes, improving resource use and efficiency is an excellent starting point. This will reduce waste and improve their environmental impact, and has the added benefit of improving their return on investment! I always recommend investing in stainless steel equipment for the manufacture and distribution of cosmetics and skincare products. Many of our customers ship their products around the world in stainless steel containers, and the containers can then be shipped back for reuse, or reused at the second site. Stainless steel is one of the most environmentally efficient raw materials, due to its durability and ability to be recycled. The equipment will have an extremely long service life, and even after its lifetime, it should never enter the waste stream.

How can companies investigate a supplier's sustainability credentials before making a purchase?

A simple search on the company's website will often tell you all you need to know! Type "Sustainability" into their search bar and the results will speak for themselves. Look for press releases on the supplier's green innovations; relationships between the supplier and trusted organizations such as the Sustainable Business Partnership; and evidence of the local and global impacts of the supplier's green initiatives.
Suppliers who have won awards for their environmental initiatives are the cream of the crop; they can be a real asset and will often collaborate on social content on the theme of sustainability, which is really valuable to present to customers.

In the wake of containment, how can companies be sure that machine suppliers aren't simply looking for a quick sale and are recommending equipment responsibly?

It's an entirely valid concern - fortunately, there are a multitude of resources available to support a purchasing decision. Case studies, word-of-mouth recommendations and Trustpilot reviews are just some of the resources you can ask suppliers to provide.
Buying from manufacturers who offer remote assistance is another excellent way of guaranteeing high-quality after-sales service.
And finally, I urge companies to invest wisely - avoid buying the cheapest machines on the market, as this can often prove to be a false economy in the long run.

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Packaging: quality control and risk assessment

Beauty brands and packaging suppliers are increasingly challenged to design packaging that is safe first, and avoids reuse or recycling of harmful materials second. 

Eurofins supports its customers' quality control and risk assessment procedures in the design, reuse and recovery of packaging, from the resin stage to the final packaging and throughout the product life cycle, considering both simple and complex packaging. 

In a context where environmental challenges, performance, safety and regulatory issues are closely linked, Eurofins has implemented a three-step strategy to assess the safety of packaging, coupled with testing under relevant conditions.

The company supports beauty brands and packaging suppliers in terms of :

  • regulatory and safety assessment of cosmetic packaging, examining packaging materials, verifying compliance, evaluating potential interactions between the container and the contents, developing an appropriate analytical test and safety assessment plan,
  • Analytical tests, performing chemical, physical and mechanical tests, analyzing toxic substances, ensuring food contact tests (global and specific migration, NIAS), evaluating the plastic content with regard to critical product protection requirements, verifying the suitability for filling at points of sale, performing compostability tests
  • audit, assessing the supply chain, packaging manufacturers and packaging material suppliers.

[CosmedTV] 5 minutes to understand allergen labelling

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The issue of allergens is a central one for many manufacturers today. According to the cosmetics regulation, 25 allergens must currently be labelled in the INCI list of cosmetics, according to their presence in the finished product. However, further changes are planned following the SCCS's opinion in 2012, which recommended that consumers be informed of the presence of 62 additional fragrance allergens! In all, 87 allergenic substances will have to be displayed on-pack. This episode of CosmedTV provides a clearer picture of the new labelling requirements, the timetable for implementation, the quantitative analysis used to verify labelling thresholds, and the NF EN 16274 standard.

Read more : www.cosmed.fr

Texen acquires the flexible packaging business of PRP Creation

PRP Creation wants to refocus its development areas, and Texen is serving its mission of sustainable development and innovation for consumers through this acquisition. 
Texen's mission is to transform matter into experience in a virtuous way. Its ambition is to play a major role in the eco-transition of the cosmetic packaging sector. Therefore, the group is interested in the development of flexible dispensing systems (pouches and gusseted pouches/doypacks). This industrial technology offers a wealth of opportunities in various segments (make-up, skincare, perfume, etc.) and meets new consumer demand:

- Choosing efficient packaging that reduces waste (high restitution rate) and limiting the presence of of preservatives (airtightness "airless").

- Increase the shelf life of a package by using bags as refill solutions.

- Reduce the raw material content of packaging 

- Recycle your cosmetic packaging (e.g. PP/PE monomaterial) 

A rapprochement that makes sense

In this context, Texen and PRP Creation have come together, resulting in Texen taking over PRP Creation's flexible packaging business on 1 January.er February 2022. In line with its eco-responsible commitments, which are the Ariane thread of its 2025 strategy, this new value proposition completes and reinforces Texen's multiple initiatives (virtuous materials, responsible design and sustainable decoration) for all its Texen customers worldwide, with a custom-made and standard offer. This new offer will benefit from Texen's expertise in terms of R&D and operational excellence.

"We are delighted to welcome this new offer and the committed employees who have developed it. The combination of our different know-how and our global presence represents a major acceleration factor for this value proposition and its many eco-design challenges"comments Remi Weidenmann, CEO of Texen.

Which plastic strategy for the hygiene and beauty sector?

Arcane Research has launched the first edition of its study "Plastique et Beauté 2021: Quelle stratégie plastique pour le secteur de l'hygiène-beauté"? More than 5,000 French people were questioned between November 25 and December 17, 2021. Ten categories were analyzed.

Among the study's findings:

- An important ecological dimension of beauty care packaging, but one that is secondary in the selection criteria:

  • The financial aspect (good value for money, affordable price, promotion), sensoriality (pleasant fragrance and texture, etc.), naturalness, efficacy and Made in France outweigh packaging-related issues,
  • 82 % of shoppers expect brands to offer environmentally-friendly packaging, but don't expect them to pay for it.

- Among the most important features of packaging for hygiene and beauty products, practicality comes first:

  • Convenient opening/closing, easy product dosing, etc.

- Packaging 100 % recyclable or refillable :

  • The most relevant solutions according to hygiene and beauty product buyers,
  • Ranked 2nd among the priorities to be implemented to promote sustainable development/.

- Two-thirds of purchasers say they systematically sort the outer packaging and containers of their hygiene products:

  • A little less for perfumes and make-up.
  • But a lack of knowledge of sorting aids: the majority are not familiar with the symbols representing materials and sorting instructions on packaging, or with the elements that can prevent sorting.

- Several growth drivers :

  • 78 % of buyers are ready to change their habits for a product with environmentally-friendly packaging,
  • 65 % of buyers avoid buying hygiene and beauty products in plastic packaging whenever possible,
  • 52 % of buyers are increasingly buying products without packaging
     

Find out more :
https://www.arcane-research.com/infographie-le-plastique-et-la-beaute/

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