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Cosmetic products: industrial solutions

Renata Bartekova, product expert and sales director at Adelphi Manufacturing, talks about the challenges facing European cosmetics and skincare manufacturers.

You've been in the industry for over 20 years. What advice would you give to companies wishing to invest in filling machines?

For companies of all sizes, from craftsmen to multinationals, compliance is essential! Increasing regional and international legislation has been accompanied by stricter questioning of hygiene practices. It's never too early to start, and machine suppliers are an excellent place to start.

You mentioned that hygiene is an area that receives particular attention. How does this relate to the filling process for cosmetics and personal care products, and what advice would you give to manufacturers?

When manufacturing dermatological products and products used in sensitive areas such as around the eyes and mouth, it's essential to invest in filling machines built from hygienic, durable materials such as stainless steel. Some suppliers use less expensive construction, and while the initial price difference may suggest that this is a good deal, in the long run it will prove to be a false economy.
Machine parts that come into contact with the product (so-called "wet" parts) must be made of pharmaceutical-grade 316L stainless steel, PTFE and Viton to ensure that no contamination occurs.
You also need to make sure you take into account the time needed to thoroughly clean the machine as often as necessary - filling machines that are quick and easy to dismantle will give an advantage, as the longer the cleaning process takes, the more money is lost in production downtime.

What would you say to cosmetics and personal care manufacturers looking to increase production without overloading their resources?

Due to the pandemic, many industries around the world are experiencing exponential growth, forcing manufacturers to rapidly increase their production capacity. However, taking the filling process from semi-automated to fully automated can be a daunting prospect, with many automated filling lines costing upwards of €60,000 upfront!
At Adelphi Manufacturing, we have developed our "Response" range of scalable machines to solve this problem. The entry-level Benchtop Filler integrates into the automated solutions of the same range, enabling capacity to be increased as required, without rendering the initial investment obsolete. The Benchtop Filler can be separated at any time, if a return to smaller batch production is required.

What about craft businesses operating from smaller premises? Is there a viable growth option for them too?

Absolutely! Just as we saw with cell phone technology in the 2000s, cushioning technology has grown in sophistication while shrinking in size. A good example is a monoblock solution, which integrates both a filler and a capper around a small star, in a compact footprint (as little as 112 cm wide x 81 cm deep). This overcomes the more demanding space requirements of a linear filling and capping line.
Maximizing the achievable output of production space is essential in any business, whatever its size, in order to generate the highest possible revenue. Fully processing up to 16,000 containers per eight-hour shift, a monobloc proves that limited space certainly doesn't mean limited production!

With sustainable manufacturing at the forefront of everyone's minds, what advice would you give to companies looking to source their equipment responsibly?

I insist that environmentally-friendly investment has never been more important; for the survival of the planet and every company. The Internet makes product comparisons fast and efficient, so that consumers can question every aspect of product and process before deciding to make a purchase. Sustainability credentials are now a primary decision-making factor for customers purchasing cosmetics, skincare and other personal care and hygiene products.
The choice of equipment supplier will send a strong and clear message about the company's commitment to sustainable development; this can help or harm its reputation, and therefore its bottom line.

We often hear of companies that want to become more sustainable themselves, but don't know where to start. What first steps would you recommend?

For companies of all sizes, improving resource use and efficiency is an excellent starting point. This will reduce waste and improve their environmental impact, and has the added benefit of improving their return on investment! I always recommend investing in stainless steel equipment for the manufacture and distribution of cosmetics and skincare products. Many of our customers ship their products around the world in stainless steel containers, and the containers can then be shipped back for reuse, or reused at the second site. Stainless steel is one of the most environmentally efficient raw materials, due to its durability and ability to be recycled. The equipment will have an extremely long service life, and even after its lifetime, it should never enter the waste stream.

How can companies investigate a supplier's sustainability credentials before making a purchase?

A simple search on the company's website will often tell you all you need to know! Type "Sustainability" into their search bar and the results will speak for themselves. Look for press releases on the supplier's green innovations; relationships between the supplier and trusted organizations such as the Sustainable Business Partnership; and evidence of the local and global impacts of the supplier's green initiatives.
Suppliers who have won awards for their environmental initiatives are the cream of the crop; they can be a real asset and will often collaborate on social content on the theme of sustainability, which is really valuable to present to customers.

In the wake of containment, how can companies be sure that machine suppliers aren't simply looking for a quick sale and are recommending equipment responsibly?

It's an entirely valid concern - fortunately, there are a multitude of resources available to support a purchasing decision. Case studies, word-of-mouth recommendations and Trustpilot reviews are just some of the resources you can ask suppliers to provide.
Buying from manufacturers who offer remote assistance is another excellent way of guaranteeing high-quality after-sales service.
And finally, I urge companies to invest wisely - avoid buying the cheapest machines on the market, as this can often prove to be a false economy in the long run.

Adelphi 2- Industrial processes - Product info

Packaging: quality control and risk assessment

Beauty brands and packaging suppliers are increasingly challenged to design packaging that is safe first, and avoids reuse or recycling of harmful materials second. 

Eurofins supports its customers' quality control and risk assessment procedures in the design, reuse and recovery of packaging, from the resin stage to the final packaging and throughout the product life cycle, considering both simple and complex packaging. 

In a context where environmental challenges, performance, safety and regulatory issues are closely linked, Eurofins has implemented a three-step strategy to assess the safety of packaging, coupled with testing under relevant conditions.

The company supports beauty brands and packaging suppliers in terms of :

  • regulatory and safety assessment of cosmetic packaging, examining packaging materials, verifying compliance, evaluating potential interactions between the container and the contents, developing an appropriate analytical test and safety assessment plan,
  • Analytical tests, performing chemical, physical and mechanical tests, analyzing toxic substances, ensuring food contact tests (global and specific migration, NIAS), evaluating the plastic content with regard to critical product protection requirements, verifying the suitability for filling at points of sale, performing compostability tests
  • audit, assessing the supply chain, packaging manufacturers and packaging material suppliers.

[CosmedTV] 5 minutes to understand allergen labelling

YouTube video
lavender essential oil - Industrial processes - Market info

The issue of allergens is a central one for many manufacturers today. According to the cosmetics regulation, 25 allergens must currently be labelled in the INCI list of cosmetics, according to their presence in the finished product. However, further changes are planned following the SCCS's opinion in 2012, which recommended that consumers be informed of the presence of 62 additional fragrance allergens! In all, 87 allergenic substances will have to be displayed on-pack. This episode of CosmedTV provides a clearer picture of the new labelling requirements, the timetable for implementation, the quantitative analysis used to verify labelling thresholds, and the NF EN 16274 standard.

Read more : www.cosmed.fr

Texen acquires the flexible packaging business of PRP Creation

PRP Creation wants to refocus its development areas, and Texen is serving its mission of sustainable development and innovation for consumers through this acquisition. 
Texen's mission is to transform matter into experience in a virtuous way. Its ambition is to play a major role in the eco-transition of the cosmetic packaging sector. Therefore, the group is interested in the development of flexible dispensing systems (pouches and gusseted pouches/doypacks). This industrial technology offers a wealth of opportunities in various segments (make-up, skincare, perfume, etc.) and meets new consumer demand:

- Choosing efficient packaging that reduces waste (high restitution rate) and limiting the presence of of preservatives (airtightness "airless").

- Increase the shelf life of a package by using bags as refill solutions.

- Reduce the raw material content of packaging 

- Recycle your cosmetic packaging (e.g. PP/PE monomaterial) 

A rapprochement that makes sense

In this context, Texen and PRP Creation have come together, resulting in Texen taking over PRP Creation's flexible packaging business on 1 January.er February 2022. In line with its eco-responsible commitments, which are the Ariane thread of its 2025 strategy, this new value proposition completes and reinforces Texen's multiple initiatives (virtuous materials, responsible design and sustainable decoration) for all its Texen customers worldwide, with a custom-made and standard offer. This new offer will benefit from Texen's expertise in terms of R&D and operational excellence.

"We are delighted to welcome this new offer and the committed employees who have developed it. The combination of our different know-how and our global presence represents a major acceleration factor for this value proposition and its many eco-design challenges"comments Remi Weidenmann, CEO of Texen.

Which plastic strategy for the hygiene and beauty sector?

Arcane Research has launched the first edition of its study "Plastique et Beauté 2021: Quelle stratégie plastique pour le secteur de l'hygiène-beauté"? More than 5,000 French people were questioned between November 25 and December 17, 2021. Ten categories were analyzed.

Among the study's findings:

- An important ecological dimension of beauty care packaging, but one that is secondary in the selection criteria:

  • The financial aspect (good value for money, affordable price, promotion), sensoriality (pleasant fragrance and texture, etc.), naturalness, efficacy and Made in France outweigh packaging-related issues,
  • 82 % of shoppers expect brands to offer environmentally-friendly packaging, but don't expect them to pay for it.

- Among the most important features of packaging for hygiene and beauty products, practicality comes first:

  • Convenient opening/closing, easy product dosing, etc.

- Packaging 100 % recyclable or refillable :

  • The most relevant solutions according to hygiene and beauty product buyers,
  • Ranked 2nd among the priorities to be implemented to promote sustainable development/.

- Two-thirds of purchasers say they systematically sort the outer packaging and containers of their hygiene products:

  • A little less for perfumes and make-up.
  • But a lack of knowledge of sorting aids: the majority are not familiar with the symbols representing materials and sorting instructions on packaging, or with the elements that can prevent sorting.

- Several growth drivers :

  • 78 % of buyers are ready to change their habits for a product with environmentally-friendly packaging,
  • 65 % of buyers avoid buying hygiene and beauty products in plastic packaging whenever possible,
  • 52 % of buyers are increasingly buying products without packaging
     

Find out more :
https://www.arcane-research.com/infographie-le-plastique-et-la-beaute/

A new range of dermocosmetic peptides

BASF has launched - Peptovitae, a series of four patented peptides that represent a new generation of scientifically developed biomimetic peptides. 

The Peptovitae series was developed in Asia through an exclusive relationship with Caregen, a Korean-based company and world leader in the research and development of biomimetic peptides.

Peptovitae addresses a broader range of skin concerns than those traditionally associated with the use of peptides. These new bioactives in BASF's Care Creations line address personal skin care benefits related to fighting the signs of aging (Peptovitae Matrix), improving skin radiance (Peptovitae Bright), soothing skin prone to dryness and itching (Peptovitae Derma), and calming and hydrating skin (Peptovitae Clear). 

The liposome-based, double-layer encapsulation system used in the Peptovitae series allows the finished products to bring the benefit of these biomimetic peptides to the skin's appearance. "BASF has adapted these peptides to ensure that they meet the standards of the cosmetic industry, making these products available to our customers and consumers."said Viju Jose, vice president of personal care solutions, care chemicals, BASF Asia Pacific.

"Increasingly, consumers are seeking safe and effective dermocosmetic-based solutions with high efficacy as an alternative to procedure-based treatments to meet their personal skin needs. The strong growth of dermocosmetics in China and the doubling of the share of dermocosmetics in the global beauty market over the past 15 years is a testament to the robust growth of peptide-containing products and the consumer shift toward biomimetic skin care regimens."added Eunice Jeong, regional market development manager, Personal Care Solutions, Care Chemicals, BASF Asia Pacific.

in-cosmetics Global back in Paris in April

Registration is open for the flagship cosmetics and personal care event, in-cosmetics Global, which returns to Paris, France, from April 5 to 7, 2022.

After a long wait, in-cosmetics Global, the world's leading trade show for personal care ingredients, will return to Paris, France, next April for its first physical European event in three years. With an all-new hybrid format, the show will open its doors at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles from April 5 to 7, 2022, followed by a virtual event scheduled for April 11 to 22. Registration is now open for both events.

Returning to in-cosmetics Global, over 400 leading personal care ingredient suppliers are among those who have confirmed their presence in Paris next April. They include BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH, Croda Europe Ltd, Ashland Industries Europe GmbH, Clariant, Lubrizol, Symrise and Evonik. Activen SA, agroCO2, ARDA Natura and Bio-Gate AG will be joining the list of exhibitors for the first time.

New product launches

The Innovation Zone will showcase raw materials that have entered the market in the last six months. Sponsored by Ashland, the zone will showcase a variety of materials available to give new finished products an innovative edge.

Elsewhere in the show, the Cosmetics Sensory Bar will present new and invigorating sensations, from evocative fragrances to opulent flavors and transformative textures. The Make-up Bar will offer inspiration for the next generation of color cosmetics, showcasing innovative pigments and technologies available to enhance product shades and tints. Finally, the Sustainability Corner, sponsored by AAK, will promote the latest sustainable raw materials and advances enabling cosmetics and personal care brands to achieve their sustainability goals.

Additional zones will bring together suppliers from the same sector or geographical region. The Fragrance Zone will host leading fragrance suppliers, including Eurofragrance, Ibertchem S.A., Technicoflor and Vioryl. Sponsored by International Fragrance Company, MG - in alliance with Firmenich - it offers the aromatic components needed to enhance personal care formulas.

The "Lab" zone will offer attendees an insight into the latest trends in laboratory equipment. The Testing and Regulatory Zone, sponsored by PhD Trials, will offer laboratory equipment specialists the chance to immerse themselves in the latest trends from suppliers including PhD Trials Coptis Software Solutions, Delfin Technologies, Ithos Global and Proderm. Brands and ingredients will also be presented by site. The event's nine national pavilions will capture trends and innovations presented by suppliers in France, the UK, South Korea, Brazil, Spain, South Africa, Colombia, Peru and Tunisia.

Further opportunities to discover the latest products and meet established and new brands will be presented in the form of specialized show tours and routes. In an all-new digital format, industry experts will help attendees navigate the event by theme in the R&D circuits, while the Indie trail will provide on-site visitors with contact details for exhibitors who supply ingredients and support small-scale production in partnership with Formula Botanica. Designed to help independent brands connect with the suppliers most suited to their scale of production, it will improve efficiency by ensuring that every participant can make the most of their time in Paris this spring.

Inspiring trends

From a focus on sustainable beauty in the Sustainability Corner to exclusive presentations from raw materials suppliers in the technical seminars, a full program of conferences will offer a comprehensive overview of the latest trends, backed up by scientific evidence. The full program of topics and speakers is now available on the in-cosmetics Global website (https://www.in-cosmetics.com/global/en-gb/whats-on/education.htmlé).

Bringing together talented formulators and R&D specialists, the Formulation Lab will once again offer select sessions to help attendees learn new formulation technologies. Sponsored by Brenntag, the sessions are open exclusively to R&D professionals from cosmetics manufacturers or contract manufacturers.

A new hybrid approach

Following feedback from attendees at in-cosmetics' online events over the past 24 months, this year's in-cosmetics Global will take a new hybrid approach to learning and sourcing by combining face-to-face and digital opportunities. Designed to complement the face-to-face experience, the virtual event will enable attendees to continue the conversation and catch up on seminar sessions missed at the show.

After three days of innovations in Paris, in-cosmetics Global will open its virtual doors from April 11 to 22. Participants will be able to discover the digital equivalents of some of the show's elements. In addition, brand-new learning opportunities via the Marketing Trends seminar program will offer attendees access to the latest industry trends, facts, figures, market analysis and research data.

"After three years of virtual in-cosmetics events in Europe, we're delighted to return to Paris to reconnect the industry face-to-face. In recent years, we've seen a growing appetite for face-to-face networking and collaboration. That's why, this year, we're striving to provide a safe and secure environment for the sector to do business. This includes three days of in-person sourcing and networking, and for the first time in the show's history, a follow-up virtual event that will expand collaboration and learning opportunities. We're counting down the days, looking forward to a triumphant return to Paris, and eager to welcome the industry that will be joining us."said Roziana Zulkifli, Director of in-cosmetics Global.

Fun!Ethic, standard-bearer of the Slow Cosmetics label

Fun!Ethic is an eco-friendly company that innovates to make cosmetics that are both healthier and better for the planet. Its formulations go far beyond official specifications, banning all controversial substances. The brand distinguishes itself with age-appropriate skincare products for teenagers, young women and women, as well as hygiene products. In 2013, it was one of the first 26 companies to be awarded the Slow Cosmétique label, an international guarantee of quality that in just a few years has become synonymous with excellence in the beauty sector.

With its human scale, ultra-local roots and natural, eco-designed range using noble ingredients, Fun!Ethic embodies the sensible cosmetics promoted by the Slow Cosmetics label. Its ecological formulas and its DNA make it one of the most committed alternatives on the beauty market. 

The Slow Cosmétique label highlights manufacturers who value their terroir, in particular, in a family, artisanal and ecological way. Preserving ancestral know-how while creating jobs and innovating for truly clean cosmetics is the aim of the 302 brands that have been awarded the label to date, all of which are family-run, human-scale structures. 

"The Slow Cosmetics label has been beneficial for our brand, and we wear it with pride. It represents strong support for greater transparency and the promotion of ethical marketing. We were the first to bring the Slow Cosmétique label to supermarkets and claim its benefits.say Martine Schmitt and Olaf Maurice, founders of Fun!Ethic.

Eric Moussu takes over as the new Sales Director of the Berkem Group

With some thirty years' experience in the chemicals sector, Eric Moussu joined the Berkem Group last September as Sales Director for the Group and its 4 subsidiaries (Berkem, Adkalis, Eurolyo and Lixol). This new department, strategic for the group, which will go public at the end of 2021, has a staff of 40.

I'm proud to be joining the Berkem Group at a strategic moment in its development. The creation of a new Group Sales Department reflects the challenges of the plant-based chemistry market. Our ambitions include deploying biosourced solutions and consolidating the Berkem Group's position as a key player in plant-based chemistry serving industrial companies. says Éric Moussu, Sales Director of the Berkem Group.

His background

After studying chemistry, Éric Moussu joined the DRT group (specialized in pine resin derivatives) in 1989 as Applications & Development Manager. In 1996, he became Key Account Sales Manager, before joining the Management Committee in 2006 as Sales & Marketing Director and Regulatory Affairs Director.

Renaissance of Bienaimé 1935, beauty house

Almost a century has passed since its creation. Today, thanks to Cécilia Mergui, Maison Bienaimé is back in the limelight. An opportunity to plunge into its dreamlike, poetic universe, where past and present combine to offer you an immersion in the heart of eternal beauty.

1935 , Robert Bienaimé, a daring avant-garde perfumer, created his eponymous brand, a perfume and cosmetics house combining the creativity of an artist with the prowess of an outstanding technician.

1960 , the brand was mothballed following the death of its founder.

2021 , Cécilia Mergui breathes new life into this sleeping beauty while respecting the heritage of its creator. Through the rebirth of the Bienaimé brand, the idea is to perpetuate the wonder of these timelessly charming treasures, and create a sensory experience that evokes the emotion of sweet nostalgia.

The Bienaimé perfume: a celebration of French savoir-faire, its bottle is made in Normandy by a factory of excellence, classified as a "living heritage company". Hand-crafted, each piece is unique and designed with refinement to elegantly dress your home.

The solid soap: Bienaimé soap benefits from an elegant fluted shape favoring, according to the brand, a gentle massage of the palm of the hand. It comes in three iconic Bienaimé fragrances.

Liquid soap: made the old-fashioned way, known as "de Marseille", Bienaimé liquid soap has "A fine, creamy texture which "Melts deliciously into the skin, leaving a soft, fresh trail after each use."

Refills: fully recyclable refill bottles fill the 200ml liquid soap bottle and the 75ml perfume bottle. They come with a funnel.

Dream balm: a combination of two oils, the balm transforms on application into a dry oil that is quickly absorbed.

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