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A new range of dermocosmetic peptides

By
The editorial staff
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BASF has launched - Peptovitae, a series of four patented peptides that represent a new generation of scientifically developed biomimetic peptides. 

The Peptovitae series was developed in Asia through an exclusive relationship with Caregen, a Korean-based company and world leader in the research and development of biomimetic peptides.

Peptovitae addresses a broader range of skin concerns than those traditionally associated with the use of peptides. These new bioactives in BASF's Care Creations line address personal skin care benefits related to fighting the signs of aging (Peptovitae Matrix), improving skin radiance (Peptovitae Bright), soothing skin prone to dryness and itching (Peptovitae Derma), and calming and hydrating skin (Peptovitae Clear). 

The liposome-based, double-layer encapsulation system used in the Peptovitae series allows the finished products to bring the benefit of these biomimetic peptides to the skin's appearance. "BASF has adapted these peptides to ensure that they meet the standards of the cosmetic industry, making these products available to our customers and consumers."said Viju Jose, vice president of personal care solutions, care chemicals, BASF Asia Pacific.

"Increasingly, consumers are seeking safe and effective dermocosmetic-based solutions with high efficacy as an alternative to procedure-based treatments to meet their personal skin needs. The strong growth of dermocosmetics in China and the doubling of the share of dermocosmetics in the global beauty market over the past 15 years is a testament to the robust growth of peptide-containing products and the consumer shift toward biomimetic skin care regimens."added Eunice Jeong, regional market development manager, Personal Care Solutions, Care Chemicals, BASF Asia Pacific.

in-cosmetics Global back in Paris in April

By
The editorial staff
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Registration is open for the flagship cosmetics and personal care event, in-cosmetics Global, which returns to Paris, France, from April 5 to 7, 2022.

After a long wait, in-cosmetics Global, the world's leading trade show for personal care ingredients, will return to Paris, France, next April for its first physical European event in three years. With an all-new hybrid format, the show will open its doors at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles from April 5 to 7, 2022, followed by a virtual event scheduled for April 11 to 22. Registration is now open for both events.

Returning to in-cosmetics Global, over 400 leading personal care ingredient suppliers are among those who have confirmed their presence in Paris next April. They include BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH, Croda Europe Ltd, Ashland Industries Europe GmbH, Clariant, Lubrizol, Symrise and Evonik. Activen SA, agroCO2, ARDA Natura and Bio-Gate AG will be joining the list of exhibitors for the first time.

New product launches

The Innovation Zone will showcase raw materials that have entered the market in the last six months. Sponsored by Ashland, the zone will showcase a variety of materials available to give new finished products an innovative edge.

Elsewhere in the show, the Cosmetics Sensory Bar will present new and invigorating sensations, from evocative fragrances to opulent flavors and transformative textures. The Make-up Bar will offer inspiration for the next generation of color cosmetics, showcasing innovative pigments and technologies available to enhance product shades and tints. Finally, the Sustainability Corner, sponsored by AAK, will promote the latest sustainable raw materials and advances enabling cosmetics and personal care brands to achieve their sustainability goals.

Additional zones will bring together suppliers from the same sector or geographical region. The Fragrance Zone will host leading fragrance suppliers, including Eurofragrance, Ibertchem S.A., Technicoflor and Vioryl. Sponsored by International Fragrance Company, MG - in alliance with Firmenich - it offers the aromatic components needed to enhance personal care formulas.

The "Lab" zone will offer attendees an insight into the latest trends in laboratory equipment. The Testing and Regulatory Zone, sponsored by PhD Trials, will offer laboratory equipment specialists the chance to immerse themselves in the latest trends from suppliers including PhD Trials Coptis Software Solutions, Delfin Technologies, Ithos Global and Proderm. Brands and ingredients will also be presented by site. The event's nine national pavilions will capture trends and innovations presented by suppliers in France, the UK, South Korea, Brazil, Spain, South Africa, Colombia, Peru and Tunisia.

Further opportunities to discover the latest products and meet established and new brands will be presented in the form of specialized show tours and routes. In an all-new digital format, industry experts will help attendees navigate the event by theme in the R&D circuits, while the Indie trail will provide on-site visitors with contact details for exhibitors who supply ingredients and support small-scale production in partnership with Formula Botanica. Designed to help independent brands connect with the suppliers most suited to their scale of production, it will improve efficiency by ensuring that every participant can make the most of their time in Paris this spring.

Inspiring trends

From a focus on sustainable beauty in the Sustainability Corner to exclusive presentations from raw materials suppliers in the technical seminars, a full program of conferences will offer a comprehensive overview of the latest trends, backed up by scientific evidence. The full program of topics and speakers is now available on the in-cosmetics Global website (https://www.in-cosmetics.com/global/en-gb/whats-on/education.htmlé).

Bringing together talented formulators and R&D specialists, the Formulation Lab will once again offer select sessions to help attendees learn new formulation technologies. Sponsored by Brenntag, the sessions are open exclusively to R&D professionals from cosmetics manufacturers or contract manufacturers.

A new hybrid approach

Following feedback from attendees at in-cosmetics' online events over the past 24 months, this year's in-cosmetics Global will take a new hybrid approach to learning and sourcing by combining face-to-face and digital opportunities. Designed to complement the face-to-face experience, the virtual event will enable attendees to continue the conversation and catch up on seminar sessions missed at the show.

After three days of innovations in Paris, in-cosmetics Global will open its virtual doors from April 11 to 22. Participants will be able to discover the digital equivalents of some of the show's elements. In addition, brand-new learning opportunities via the Marketing Trends seminar program will offer attendees access to the latest industry trends, facts, figures, market analysis and research data.

"After three years of virtual in-cosmetics events in Europe, we're delighted to return to Paris to reconnect the industry face-to-face. In recent years, we've seen a growing appetite for face-to-face networking and collaboration. That's why, this year, we're striving to provide a safe and secure environment for the sector to do business. This includes three days of in-person sourcing and networking, and for the first time in the show's history, a follow-up virtual event that will expand collaboration and learning opportunities. We're counting down the days, looking forward to a triumphant return to Paris, and eager to welcome the industry that will be joining us."said Roziana Zulkifli, Director of in-cosmetics Global.

Fun!Ethic, standard-bearer of the Slow Cosmetics label

By
The editorial staff
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Fun!Ethic is an eco-friendly company that innovates to make cosmetics that are both healthier and better for the planet. Its formulations go far beyond official specifications, banning all controversial substances. The brand distinguishes itself with age-appropriate skincare products for teenagers, young women and women, as well as hygiene products. In 2013, it was one of the first 26 companies to be awarded the Slow Cosmétique label, an international guarantee of quality that in just a few years has become synonymous with excellence in the beauty sector.

With its human scale, ultra-local roots and natural, eco-designed range using noble ingredients, Fun!Ethic embodies the sensible cosmetics promoted by the Slow Cosmetics label. Its ecological formulas and its DNA make it one of the most committed alternatives on the beauty market. 

The Slow Cosmétique label highlights manufacturers who value their terroir, in particular, in a family, artisanal and ecological way. Preserving ancestral know-how while creating jobs and innovating for truly clean cosmetics is the aim of the 302 brands that have been awarded the label to date, all of which are family-run, human-scale structures. 

"The Slow Cosmetics label has been beneficial for our brand, and we wear it with pride. It represents strong support for greater transparency and the promotion of ethical marketing. We were the first to bring the Slow Cosmétique label to supermarkets and claim its benefits.say Martine Schmitt and Olaf Maurice, founders of Fun!Ethic.

Eric Moussu takes over as the new Sales Director of the Berkem Group

By
Kristel Milet
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With some thirty years' experience in the chemicals sector, Eric Moussu joined the Berkem Group last September as Sales Director for the Group and its 4 subsidiaries (Berkem, Adkalis, Eurolyo and Lixol). This new department, strategic for the group, which will go public at the end of 2021, has a staff of 40.

" I'm proud to be joining the Berkem Group at a strategic moment in its development. The creation of a new Group Sales Department reflects the challenges of the plant-based chemistry market. Our ambitions include deploying biosourced solutions and consolidating the Berkem Group's position as a key player in plant-based chemistry serving industrial companies. " says Éric Moussu, Sales Director of the Berkem Group.

His background

After studying chemistry, Éric Moussu joined the DRT group (specialized in pine resin derivatives) in 1989 as Applications & Development Manager. In 1996, he became Key Account Sales Manager, before joining the Management Committee in 2006 as Sales & Marketing Director and Regulatory Affairs Director.

Renaissance of Bienaimé 1935, beauty house

By
The editorial staff
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Almost a century has passed since its creation. Today, thanks to Cécilia Mergui, Maison Bienaimé is back in the limelight. An opportunity to plunge into its dreamlike, poetic universe, where past and present combine to offer you an immersion in the heart of eternal beauty.

1935 , Robert Bienaimé, a daring avant-garde perfumer, created his eponymous brand, a perfume and cosmetics house combining the creativity of an artist with the prowess of an outstanding technician.

1960 , the brand was mothballed following the death of its founder.

2021 , Cécilia Mergui breathes new life into this sleeping beauty while respecting the heritage of its creator. Through the rebirth of the Bienaimé brand, the idea is to perpetuate the wonder of these timelessly charming treasures, and create a sensory experience that evokes the emotion of sweet nostalgia.

The Bienaimé perfume: a celebration of French savoir-faire, its bottle is made in Normandy by a factory of excellence, classified as a "living heritage company". Hand-crafted, each piece is unique and designed with refinement to elegantly dress your home.

The solid soap: Bienaimé soap benefits from an elegant fluted shape favoring, according to the brand, a gentle massage of the palm of the hand. It comes in three iconic Bienaimé fragrances.

Liquid soap: made the old-fashioned way, known as "de Marseille", Bienaimé liquid soap has "A fine, creamy texture which "Melts deliciously into the skin, leaving a soft, fresh trail after each use."

Refills: fully recyclable refill bottles fill the 200ml liquid soap bottle and the 75ml perfume bottle. They come with a funnel.

Dream balm: a combination of two oils, the balm transforms on application into a dry oil that is quickly absorbed.

Eastman plans to invest in a plastics recycling plant in France

By
The editorial staff
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On January 19, Emmanuel Macron and Mark Costa, Eastman's Chairman and CEO, announced Eastman's intention to invest up to $1 billion in a plant for the molecular recycling of polyesters from household packaging and textile waste. This facility will use Eastman's polyester renewal technology to recycle up to 160,000 tonnes a year of hard-to-recycle plastic waste that is currently incinerated.

This investment would make it possible to recycle enough plastic waste each year - materials that are generally incinerated because they cannot be recycled mechanically or have to be downgraded using existing technology - to fill the Stade de France 2.5 times over.

According to Eastman, polyester renewal technology makes it possible to exploit the potentially infinite value of materials by keeping them in production, life cycle after life cycle. Thanks to the yields inherent in the technology and the renewable energy sources available in France, materials can be produced with greenhouse gas emissions up to 80 % lower than with traditional methods.

This year, Eastman is the biggest investor in the "Choose France" event, which aims to attract foreign investment to France.

This multi-phase project includes units that would prepare mixed plastic waste for processing, a methanolysis unit to depolymerize the waste, and polymer lines to create a variety of premium materials for specialty, packaging and textile applications. Eastman, a global producer of specialty materials, also plans to create an innovation center for molecular recycling that would enable France to maintain a leading role in the circular economy. This innovation center would advance alternative recycling methods and applications to limit the incineration of plastic waste and leave fossil raw materials in the ground. The plant and innovation center should be operational by 2025, creating 350 jobs and generating a further 1,500 indirect jobs in recycling, energy and infrastructure.

Eastman's project has also received the support of global brands who share his commitment to solving the problem of plastic waste and see molecular recycling as an essential tool for achieving a circular economy. LVMH Beauty, The Estée Lauder Companies, Clarins, Procter & Gamble, L'Oréal and Danone have led the way by signing letters of intent for multi-year supply agreements from the facility. 

"France (...) is giving itself the means to achieve its ambitious plastics recycling targets set for 2025. We are very excited to welcome a company with a 100-year history of global innovation and over 30 years' experience in molecular recycling".said Barbara Pompili, French Minister for Ecological Transition.

"Eastman's world-scale project will position France as a European leader in new technologies for recycling and recovering plastic waste. This investment is the result of the ambitious approach to industrial reconquest led by the government since 2017, which has enabled France to become Europe's most attractive country for industrial projects as of 2018added Agnès Pannier-Runacher, Minister for Industry. With this project, which represents an important step for our sovereignty, we are giving ourselves the means to achieve our ambitions in terms of ecological transition while creating sustainable jobs in the manufacturing, infrastructure and energy sectors. We look forward to developing this relationship with Eastman."

"The project to build the world's largest plastics recycling facility in France is an important part of our overall circular economy strategy."said Mark Costa.

An innovative collaboration for microplastics research

By
The editorial staff
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The Quadpack Foundation is working with an academy to support the development of solutions to tackle plastic pollution.

Quadpack Foundation, the charitable arm of international cosmetics and perfumery packaging manufacturer and supplier Quadpack, has teamed up with UAB Research Park, the non-profit organization co-created by the Autonomous University of Barcelona, to support scientific research into microplastics and their effects on people and the environment. The foundation sponsored the 12th edition of Generació d'Idees (Generation of Ideas), an initiative aimed at fostering an entrepreneurial spirit and a culture of innovation among researchers and doctoral students by putting them in touch with current industry challenges.

Between September and December 2021, multidisciplinary research groups took part in co-creation sessions and received entrepreneurship training, mentoring and prototyping support. Next, the program organized a competition in which participants presented their projects to a panel of judges made up of academics, industry experts and members of the general public.

The prize for the best innovative idea went to MP Food Watching, a solution that uses hyperspectral imaging technology to detect and better visualize the presence of microplastics in food. Presented as a cost-effective and fast solution for the food chain, the project won €1,000 to launch a crowdfunding campaign, mentoring coaching, support for social networking and six months' incubation at UAB Open Labs, the university's open innovation network.

Qu4tre, a group of researchers involving Quadpack engineers Roger Oller and Mariola Rodríguez, won the People's Choice Award with the Omnibox project, a reusable container for municipal markets, including a logistics plan for distribution, take-back and cleaning to offer a zero-waste solution. The group received a six-month incubation period and support for dissemination on social networks.

"We are aware of the responsibility we bear as an industry and want to be part of the solution. By connecting with researchers and sharing the challenges we face, we can move forward together towards a healthier world and have a positive impact on future generations", explains Marta Gil, Quadpack Foundation Manager.

Microplastics are fragments less than 5 mm in size that come from the breakage of larger plastic parts, or are manufactured in microspheres for hygiene and cleaning products. The many applications of plastics in industry, combined with poor waste management, have caused microplastic pollution to grow exponentially. This is currently considered a major environmental problem, affecting ocean life, terrestrial fauna and human health.

Photo: from left to right, Quadpack CFO Bardo Bevelander, Quadpack engineers Mariola Rodríguez and Roger Oller, and Quadpack Foundation Manager Marta Gil.

PolymerExpert wins second prize for formulation at Cosmet'Agora 2022

By
The editorial staff
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The Cosmet'Agora formulation competition jury awarded PolymerExpert second prize for its "happy event" product formulated with EstoGel Green, the new Cosmos-approved biobased 100 % oil phase rheology modifier.

The theme was "happy cosmetics". PolymerExpert chose to formulate a toning body serum called "Un heureux événement", which accompanies expectant mothers from the 2nd trimester of pregnancy through to the first months post-delivery. This evolving treatment is divided into three phases, each containing just the right amount of active ingredients to match the body's changing needs.

Second trimester of pregnancy: The body begins to round out, and the skin needs to gain in elasticity and hydration. The transparent phase prepares the skin for the first changes. Third trimester of pregnancy: The first stretch marks begin to appear. The skin needs reinforced hydration and suppleness. The orange phase is enriched with restructuring active ingredients. First trimester post-pregnancy: Skin becomes slack and lacks tone, and needs to be firmed. The scintillating phase restores firmness to the body.

The idea: combine three miscible oil phases that don't mix in a single product.

This serum has been formulated with natural oils with nourishing properties. Its formula combines macadamia oil, renowned for improving skin elasticity, and rose hip oil, which helps prevent stretch marks. This complex of plant oils is completed by a skin-firming extract of Brède Mafane.

This minimalist formula meets today's formulation codes, with 99.5 % of ingredients of natural origin and no preservatives. What's more, in an eco-responsible approach, only one packaging is needed for three products. The sensoriality of the three phases has been designed to be equivalent throughout the treatment. Only the quantities of active ingredients vary.

Thanks to the use of innovative oil-gelling polymers of natural origin, PolymerExpert was able to form three transparent gels with suspensive and rheofluidifying properties.

"Happy Cosmetics", the new Seppic cosmetic formulas

By
Kristel Milet
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In today's complex environment, many consumers are feeling the need for an emotional reboot by taking more time for themselves and reconnecting with their sensations. Cosmetics play a part in this well-being! Thanks to their sensoriality and textures, they provide pleasure and moments of relaxation, bringing immediate well-being and awakening positive emotions for long-term well-being.

At Cosmet' Agora, Seppic sought to meet these expectations by creating formulas dedicated to happiness and well-being.

Cosmos Skin Bliss transformation formula offers a rich texture, releasing an aqueous film after application. Its rapid absorption leaves a refreshing, bare-skin effect. This multifunctional product adapts to every need. The formula uses patented Geltrap technology, an emulsion with an extra-water-rich gelled aqueous inner phase, appreciated worldwide. On the anti-aging front, Aspar'Age boosts self-esteem, helping consumers to feel younger (confirmed by personal, instrumental and observer evaluations). It's a dose of good humor in a tube!

Always on the lookout for immediate well-being, consumers are looking for skin care products tailored to their needs and desires. The refreshing Fresh Water Drop provides immediate pleasure thanks to the quick-break effect of the Sepinov WEO polymer. What's more, Antileukine 6, an oily active ingredient nicknamed "golden algae", present in this formula, soothes and protects skin after sun exposure. A dose of freshness and well-being that gives you a boost!

For consumers interested in a holistic approach to body and mind, the Happy Skin kit is ideal. It contains a "pro-aging" cosmetic care product that stimulates hearing, smell and sight, with the appearance of pink foam and a soft, comfortable touch thanks to the combination of Emogreen, Montanov 202 and Sepimax Zen for a unique multi-sensory experience. For the taste, it is accompanied by nutritive gums containing Ceramosides, an anti-aging active derived from Seppic's nutrition expertise. The treatment contains Ceramosides HP cosmetic grade. This "inside & out" beauty routine is all-encompassing.

At a time when consumers are looking for a sensory and emotional experience in cosmetics, Seppic innovates by inspiring its customers through its "Happy Cosmetics" collection, and invites them to rediscover its "boosting" ingredients for positive emotions. Three other formulas combining cosmetics and emotion are also available in our kit for additional beauty experiences.

An instant cooler for cosmetics and massage tools

By
The editorial staff
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Start-up Beautigloo recently revealed its latest Beauty Tech innovation at the world's largest trade fair for technological innovation: a device for cooling cosmetics and beauty tools in record time.

At CES 2022, Beautigloo previewed an instant cooler. Thanks to interchangeable modules, it can cool massage tools and cosmetics such as face masks in less than five minutes, for ultimate freshness during application. Designed with the support of renowned experts, this patented product will be available by the end of the year. 

Cooling expertise at the service of beauty

Since 2017, Beautigloo has been designing, developing and manufacturing innovative beauty appliances and tools at its Paris premises, with the ambition of preserving the beauty of every individual. A specialist in electro-beauty, the French company is already known for its refrigerated beauty case designed to enhance the effectiveness of cosmetics while being environmentally friendly. 

Selected by Business France to join the delegation of the most promising French start-ups, Beautigloo was able to raise its profile in the American market.

"We already had a presence in the United States, and this key innovation show enabled us to meet new customers and develop our business.nts and distributors "says Clara Lizier, co-founder of Beautigloo.

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