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Firmenich increases its production capacity for renewable ingredients in Europe

Firmenich, a global specialist in fragrances and flavors, today announced the commissioning of a new multi-purpose renewable ingredients production unit at its Castets site in southwest France. The new unit, which will be operational in January, will increase the site's production capacity by 50 % to serve fragrance customers and meet the rapidly growing demand for sustainable products.

"This additional plant in Castets strengthens our global leadership in renewable ingredients by strategically positioning Firmenich to offer additional capacity for fragrance, provide superior service close to our customers in Europe and capture growth opportunities, said Gilbert Ghostine, CEO of Firmenich. This state-of-the-art facility also contributes significantly to our environmental, social and governance (ESG) goal of ensuring that 70% of Firmenich ingredients are made from renewable carbon sources by 2030."

"We are very proud of this new state-of-the-art facility, designed to expand our unique industry expertise in producing pine-based ingredients from recycled materialsadded Boet Brinkgreve, president of ingredients at Firmenich. This major expansion will uniquely position Firmenich as a recognized supplier of bio-based and renewable ingredients, and help our customers achieve their own ESG goals."

The 17,000 square meters of production space, spread over four floors, are equipped with the most advanced technologies in the sector to guarantee the highest standards of efficiency, quality, health and safety, in line with the Group's objectives. Its versatile design ensures the supply of various finished products as well as a wide range of intermediate products. The new plant offers more cost-effective solutions with a reduced environmental impact, thanks to greater proximity to the European market, thus reducing the transportation of raw materials and finished products.

In line with Firmenich's responsible business approach and its ambitious ESG goals for 2030, sustainability criteria were integrated into the project design from the outset.

Global Bioenergies expands the use of its naturally occurring isododecane

Global Bioenergies announces the successful completion of new toxicology studies on its first cosmetic ingredient, naturally occurring isododecane, which will now be available for use in the broad dermocosmetic and hair care markets.

In October 2020, a first phase of toxicology studies opened the door to the use of naturally occurring isododecane, produced by Global Bioenergies, in the makeup segment.

A new toxicological assessment conducted in cooperation with an independent consulting firm now complements the first study from 2020. It validates the use of Global Bioenergies' renewable isododecane in dermocosmetics and hair care products, areas where isododecane is used in much higher volumes than in make-up. This new step will allow Global Bioenergies to enrich its proposition to the leaders of the Beauty and Care sector, in order to increase the overall naturalness of the cosmetics field.

From 2022, Global Bioenergies will increase its production volumes with the Pomacle unit, which will serve the make-up market and sample the dermocosmetic and hair care fields.

At the end of 2024, a larger production plant, whose project is currently under study, would come into operation in order to fully serve these fields of dermocosmetics and hair care.

Marc Delcourt, CEO and co-founder of Global Bioenergies, states: "We are pursuing our strategy of conquest in stages: horizon 1 materialized in 2021 with the launch of our own brand, Last . At the beginning of 2022, horizon 2 will materialize with the start-up of our Pomacle unit to serve the niche market of high-value but limited-volume make-up ingredients. As we prepare for the larger dermocosmetics and hair care markets, we are already anticipating our horizon 3, which will see the light of day in 2024."

Lumson focuses on environmentally friendly packaging

Campaigns to raise awareness of packaging sustainability and recyclability are one of the main themes that Lumson has integrated into its mission. One of the avenues being pursued is the creation of refill systems, which are playing an increasingly important role in the company's launch plans.

Consumers already regularly use refill systems - just think of the food industry, which introduced refillable products years ago. What's more, refills create interaction with consumers and make it possible to personalize products.

Recharging, Lumson's new frontier

Re Place, Lumson's new glass jar with a refillable system (inner cup), is designed for easy removal and replacement, and offers a response to market expectations. "In new circular design systems, refills are an effective solution given their extremely positive impact on the environment, while encouraging new, more ethical and virtuous habits among more attentive consumers. "explains Lumson CEO Matteo Moretti.

Re Place is the first research system in a series to come, because "for Lumson, redesigning, rethinking new refill systems will increasingly become a priority, and demonstrates our unwavering commitment to sustainability, without neglecting the product's technical, aesthetic and protective functions."

Lumson, which has long focused on the 3Rs of the circular economy - reduce, reuse, recycle - has adopted three new key concepts for the refill sector: Re-Think, Re-Gen, Re-Act. 

Re-Think: rethinking packaging with an eco-design approach. Re-Gen, to breathe new life into glass jars. Re-Act, to enable consumers, who are playing an increasingly active role, to personalize their product by simply replacing the inner cup. 

Re Place uses two 50 ml Lumson glass jars: Deluxe and Unique, whose respective features are an elegant, classic shape and rounded lines with a refined look. Both feature an extremely thick jar base for a positive approach to luxury.

The inner plastic cup - which has been specially designed to allow protection to be applied to the top - can, after use, be easily removed from the jar and disposed of via the recycling channel.  

Both components can be customized - giving the various packaging elements a distinctive, eye-catching identity - using a variety of effects and decorations: from simple but elegant silk-screen printing, to more sophisticated interior lacquering that enhances and adds value to the lines and thickness of the glass.

Cardboard for airless

The Italian company also innovates in the airless sector, with carton packaging. Its XPaper pocket airless received the ADI Design Index Award for Innovation. 

The innovative nature of XPaper is essentially due to the material from which the airless dispenser bottle is made: cardboard. According to Lumson, it wasn't easy to find an alternative to plastic or glass that was lightweight, easy to work with, durable and compatible with the strict safety protocols established by the cosmetics world. 

If paper was not the best material to use for packaging (primary) cosmetics, due to the problems of preserving the formulas they contain, innovative, high-performance and highly aesthetic solutions have emerged. What's more, thanks to fine printing techniques, it's possible to transform any material into a luxurious, sophisticated product that enhances both content and container. All this, while respecting the environment. 

The new Xpaper paper airless dispenser is currently the subject of a patent application. It is part of the Touchless family of airless dispensers featuring Lumson's patented hermetic closure. 

"I feel XPaper has everything it takes to become an iconic product: it's durable, functional, safe and sought-after, says Matteo Moretti. Once the product is used up, you can separate the dispenser from the paper bottle and send it to the right recycling chain. It's practical and safe to use, because like all our airless dispensers with pouch, it's been developed to protect the product as much as possible against the risk of contamination by air or other external agents that could alter the formula. And then there's the look. The packaging can be customized using conventional and digital printing technologies, transforming itself into a unique product with a strong personality."

Texen supports its partners in their sustainable innovation efforts

In 2021, to meet Chanel's environmental requirements, Texen is adapting its industrial process. The company is proposing to work with RPET, a material derived from the recycling of PET plastic bottles, and is making its agile Smart lines available to automate and optimize production.

Thanks to the polycondensation* process, Texen was able to design a new, eco-responsible cap for Chanel's Le Lift and Hydra Beauty skincare lines, which retains the same mechanical and sensory properties as the original.

As part of the global approach shared with its partner to reduce environmental impact, this cap contains a black colorant specifically developed to make the part detectable by optical sorting, thus facilitating recycling and enabling better management of the product's life cycle.

The modularity and versatility of the Smart lines ensure Chanel a controlled production process. By managing the entire design process, Texen can manufacture the raw material and produce a finished, varnished piece in less than 20 minutes.

* Polycondensation is a chemical reaction that rebuilds molecular chains broken during the recycling process, enabling them to become polymers again. Polycondensation restores the basic mechanical and chemical characteristics of the finished product, guaranteeing its edibility.

SGS France integrates Idea Tests

SGS France confirms the closing of the Idea Tests acquisition announced last October.  

The Idea Tests group, established in 1999 by Benoit Latouche, specializes in the evaluation of effectiveness (in vivo and in vitro) of tolerance, toxicology and microbiology, as well as regulatory support for the marketing of finished products and cosmetic ingredients. Idea Tests' skills naturally complement SGS France's "Cosmetics & Hygiene" offering. Idea Tests has three sites in France (Martillac, Talence, Plouzané) and one in Europe (Bucharest), and employs 80 people.

"France is the 1er cosmetics exporter, ahead of Germany and the United States. SGS is the world leader in testing, inspection and certification. This targeted acquisition, which enhances our offer dedicated to the quality and performance of cosmetic products, was one of our key priorities in satisfying our French and European customers, whether they are raw material manufacturers, industrialists or distributors. Idea Tests is still one of the largest independent players capable of mastering all aspects of testing (in vitro, microbiology and clinical trials); the synergies with our group are innumerable, in terms of complementary service offerings and customer presence".says Alain Guy, President of SGS France.

 "We share SGS's values of customer satisfaction and innovation. Joining a group like SGS marks a new and exciting stage in our development.concludes Benoit Latouche, President of Idea Tests.

MS BeautiLab expands to North America and appoints Shannaz Schopfer as General Manager

Olivier Salaun, CEO of MS BeautiLab, appoints Shannaz Schopfer as Managing Director North America. This announcement marks the continued implementation of the company's Pulse 2025 strategy through international expansion, and positions MS BeautiLab's global service offering to the North American market.

Shannaz Schopfer has 20 years' experience in production, strategic planning and innovation. According to Olivier Salaun, " Shannaz will lead our North American activities, offering our complete range of vertically integrated solutions, including customized development for individual customers. "

To support these initiatives, Shannaz Schopfer has appointed Maria Barbieri to the position of Senior Vice President of Sales. During her 20-year career, Maria Barbieri has managed packaging, products, operations, logistics and sales, working closely with blue-chip beauty companies including Intercos and Estée Lauder.

Specializing in skincare, colors and powders, MS BeautiLab offers brands global, turnkey solutions focused on innovation, sustainability and European quality. As the beauty division of the Swiss Marvinpac Group, MS Beautilab offers a unique global package, including not only the development and production of formulas and packaging, but also a complete marketing proposition for both product and packaging design.

Generating over 100 million euros in sales, the company has a current production capacity of over 6,000 tonnes and a total worldwide footprint of over 45,000 m2, divided between production units and R&D laboratories in France, Switzerland, Italy and the Czech Republic.

In 2022, MS BeautiLab will open an R&D laboratory in Los Angeles, and Shannaz Schopfer will soon be recruiting to support business development and operations in the USA.


Key dates

  • 1964 Strand Cosmetics Europe is born
  • 1999 Birth of Marvinpac
  • 2009 Creation of the Marvinpac CZ subsidiary in the Czech Republic
  • 2015 Strand Cosmetics Europe and Marvinpac create the joint venture MS Swiss Cosmetics
  • 2018 Marvinpac acquires a stake in Strand Cosmetics Europe
  • 2020 Strand Cosmetics Europe and Marvinpac create MS BeautiLab
  • 2021 Creation of the Group Chief Executive Officer Marvinpac, entrusted to Olivier Salaun; Expansion in the United States with Shannaz Schopfer as General Manager.

Photos
Left: Shannaz Schopfer
Right: Maria Barbieri 

Cosmetic ingredients and biotechs: Cosm'ing will be held on December 7 and 8

On December 7 and 8, Biotech Santé Bretagne will be bringing together over 150 researchers and industrialists involved in cosmetics for the 9th edition of Cosm'ing. A benchmark event in the field of cosmetic ingredients and biotechnologies, Cosm'ing offers an in-depth analysis of the latest technological advances (bioprocesses, cell cultures, omics technologies, etc.), while promoting meetings between players and the emergence of innovative projects.

The sea and biotechnologies as sources of inspiration

How can we continue to innovate and draw inspiration from the living world without depleting biodiversity? How can we take account of climate change objectives in the development of cosmetics? What if the answer lay in Brittany and the oceans, which are still far from having revealed all their secrets?

In this field, Brittany, which is home to 50 % of French maritime research, a high concentration of innovative players in marine biotechnologies (grouped within the Capbiotek network run by Biotech Santé Bretagne) and algae fields that are unique in Europe, is an abysmal source of inspiration for the future of the national and international cosmetics industry.

In an industry where naturalness is at the heart of concerns, successive speakers at Cosm'ing 2021 will address questions such as: How to move from biosourcing to biomimicry? How to protect bioinspired innovations? What (bio)technological tools are needed for bioproduction and traceability of active ingredients? How can we improve skin microbiota? What role can phages play in cosmetics? What's the link between cosmetics and emotion?

The 31 renowned speakers (academics, biotech startups, active ingredient suppliers, finished product brands) will be sharing their knowledge and advancing the debate on the contribution of biotechnologies to cosmetics.

At the heart of a favorable regional context

With 2,470 km of coastline and a leading position in marine biotechnologies, Brittany is an ideal location for innovation and the development of its cosmetics industry, supported by Biotech Santé Bretagne.

The sector in Brittany represents: more than 150 Breton companies in the cosmetics sector, nearly 6,000 jobs and sales of 1.8 billion Euros. 50% of oceanographic research is based in Brittany, and cosmetics is one of the 6 levers of the "health and well-being for a better quality of life" Strategic Innovation Area of the regional S3 (2021-2027).

A new competition: "amazing discoverers

This year, it will also be an opportunity for young researchers (PhD students) to shine in front of an audience of specialists with the first edition of the "étonnants découvreurs" competition organized by Biotech Santé Bretagne in partnership with the GDR CNRS "Cosm'actifs" research group. The six candidates shortlisted by the scientific committee will come from all over France to present their thesis topic in 180 seconds...

Cosm'ing 2021 in figures

9th edition, 150 participants, 31 conferences, three poster sessions (22 posters), a prize for the best poster, an "astonishing discoverers" competition, seven partner exhibitors and dozens of B2B meetings.

Coverpla takes part in the rebirth of Via Dei Mille fragrances

Via Dei Mille is the rebirth of a family story that began in Sicily in the 50s. Stefano Alderuccio, the founder's grandson, pays tribute to the rare essences of Sicily, to its traditions now brought to life by the talent of perfumer-creators from Grasse. The fragrances in the Ianco collection express themselves in the whiteness whose name they have taken from an old Sicilian dialect, and in the subtle arabesques embossed on the box's paper.

Baroque poetry

Coverpla had the pleasure of sharing in this family adventure, taking charge of the packaging for all three fragrances. The brand chose the Laura bottle (100 ml) designed by Coverpla and created by Bormioli Luigi. Its sleek, round shape, both straight and powerful, is enhanced by a matte black Vintage chapé cap decorated in a single pass of silkscreen. Coverpla also supplied the pump and pump cover for the overall development.

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation places L'Occitane en Provence among the most committed brands

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation has published its 2021 progress report on theGlobal Commitment to the New Plastics Economy which measures the progress made by signatory companies, governments and other organizations in the plastics circular economy. On the strength of its convincing results and ambitious targets, L'Occitane en Provence is one of the most committed brands in this field, assuming a leading role among companies in the cosmetics sector. 

"This award means a great deal to us. It confirms the validity of our plastic management strategies and actions, and at the same time encourages us to do even better," comments David Bayard, Packaging R&D Director. 

Since 2019, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation has published its annual report Global Commitment to the New Plastics Economy. It provides a benchmark for measuring progress in the plastics circular economy. Thanks to key data (such as packaging volumes or recycled content share), it provides an unprecedented level of transparency. In particular, signatory companies are committed to eliminating "problematic" packaging and increasing the use of recycled plastics fivefold between 2019 and 2025. The Foundation is also calling for more action on disposal, reuse and innovation, as well as the development of circular practices to avoid waste and pollution. 

Cultivating change 

L'Occitane en Provence is convinced that consumption and regeneration are inextricably linked. This is why, as an international cosmetics company, it assumes the role of "cultivator of change", guiding its actions at every level, right from the packaging design and production phase. 
By signing theGlobal commitment to the new plastics economy In 2019, L'Occitane en Provence must be transparent and strive to surpass itself. Thus, between 2018 and 2025, the brand aims to achieve an overall share of 40% of recycled plastic in everything it produces - this proportion currently stands at 21.4% - as well as a 10% reduction in the total annual weight of plastic used (regardless of the growth of its business). The brand has also set itself an ambitious target 3 x 100% by 2025 : 
- 100% plastic bottles from recycled materials 
- 100% of recyclable, reusable or compostable plastic packaging 
- 100% of its own stores offering a recycling service. 

Three areas of intervention 

The objectives of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation are fully in line with L'Occitane en Provence's commitment to waste reduction, whose actions are implemented in three areas. 

Reduce - reduce waste and improve product lifespan 

In general, L'Occitane en Provence is seeking to do away with single-use and superfluous plastics. For this reason, it has committed to reducing the total annual weight of plastic used by 10% by 2025, and to completely eliminating cellophane from its products by 2022. 
Similarly, the group offers shampoos in solid form - an alternative cited as an example by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation in the first section of its report. Dedicated to the elimination of plastics, this is the NGO's most decisive area of action. 
L'Occitane en Provence is also reducing waste by gradually rolling out "bulk fountains" internationally from 2021, extending the brand's commitment to combining simplicity and innovation. From among five iconic products, customers select the desired refill volume (250ml or 500ml) and fill their bottle Forever made from lightweight, recyclable 100% recycled aluminum. These eco-designed fountains save 94% of plastic compared with conventional packaging. 
Finally, L'Occitane also offers 25 of its own bestsellers eco-refills: packaging that uses on average 85% less plastic than a conventional bottle, saving around 200 tonnes of plastic every year. By 2025, 100% recyclable ecorecharges will improve these results. 

Recycling - towards a circular economy 

In addition to these actions, the brand has been using bottles made from 100% recycled PET for 10 years for its Aromachologie hair care range. The 300ml and 500ml liquid soap bottles are also made from 100% recycled plastic. In the L'Occitane catalog, 65 references are made from 100% recycled plastic. 

Reacting - encouraging the responsible and sustainable use of plastics 

L'Occitane's commitment to the environment extends beyond its own value chain, by joining forces with the most innovative companies and organizations in the fight against environmental pollution. To this end, it is involved in avant-garde and committed projects such as the Plastic Odyssey expedition, SPICE and BeMed. 
In June 2021, the Group joined more than 150 players linked to the packaging sector (companies, NGOs, experts, associations) in responding to the call for producer responsibility (EPR - Extended Producer Responsibility) launched by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. In particular, this initiative aims to commit them to implementing mandatory, fee-based collection systems to cover costs and, in fine, sort and recycle packaging in a circular economy. 

The start-up Lyophitech raises funds to accelerate its industrial development

Founded in 2017 by Jean Delaveau, Lyophitech invented and patented a new freeze-drying process. The Lyon-based company increased its capital last September by raising €570,000 from around 20 business angels. This financing will enable the company to structure its industrial tool and accelerate its commercial development, particularly in the food, cosmetics and health markets.

Lyophitech revolutionizes an old process in favor of a faster, simpler and more economical dynamic freeze-drying. The invention democratizes a process allowing to enhance the naturalness of ingredients, by preserving their organoleptic and nutritional qualities and their active ingredients. The liquids are returned in the form of beads, this format is easy to handle, less volatile, and also improves rehydration compared to powders.

This round of financing comes at a time when Lyophitech wants to accelerate its development and production volumes. The company has had a 50-liter pilot unit for 24 months. The funding will allow the company to sponsor, for a total investment of €2.7 million, the construction of three new machines and to move into industrial premises in western Lyon (with a controlled atmosphere environment). The company currently has a team of nine employees and will move from R&D to industrial production in April 2022.

This first round of financing of 570 k€ was carried out with business angels, half of whom are members of the Hara network (Health Angels Rhône-Alpes). The arrival of these new regional investors in the capital will allow the company to support the industrial deployment in the first quarter of 2022 and the creation of new jobs. Since the beginning of the school year, Lyophitech has already recruited four people for the positions of sales manager, sales representative, QSE manager and electromechanical programmer.

By the end of 2021, positions for laboratory technicians (microbiologists), process engineers, workshop managers and office managers will be available. In 2022, operators on the industrial processing lines will be added to these positions. Lyophitech's ambition is to recruit a total of thirty employees by 2025. Indeed, the market potential currently amounts to 60 billion euros for 8 % of growth and the company expects a turnover of 700,000 euros in 2022 and 6.5 million euros by 2025 (for a volume of 750 tons dried annually).

"This fundraising is a necessary turning point that will allow us to finance our development from R&D to the industrial production phase. The challenge is to scale up the company and exploit our technology, which is now mature, by investing in high-performance production tools. We are enthusiastic about the idea of entering this new stage of the project and we already have other avenues for development. We are planning to increase the number of machines to six, to expand in France, to develop other patents, etc."explains Yann Neymarc, General Manager of Lyophitech. And he adds: "Market expectations are very high because the static technology and equipment currently available in the market is saturated. We have a lot of incoming requests from the different sectors we are targeting, and we look forward to being able to meet them."

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