Plasmatreat presents a new application of its Openair-Plasma technology, successfully implemented in the luxury packaging sector to optimize the finishing and printing process for luxury perfume glass bottles, as well as the bonding of their decorative elements. 

The Openair-Plasma technology developed by Plasmatreat is one of the world's leading solutions for activating, cleaning and plasma-treating all types of surface in a wide range of applications. A simple, environmentally-friendly method, Openair-Plasma is an activation process that enables effective, rapid and affordable surface modification, without altering the mechanical properties of the materials treated.

Developed to meet the needs of bottle manufacturers, this new business application aims to improve the print quality of text characters and logos for luxury brands with often highly refined designs, and provide maximum protection for vials and bottles to prevent damage and scratches caused by friction during transport. The process can even be used to produce complex multi-part bottles.

The Plasmatreat process is based on in-line activation of the plasma treatment. It directly treats, cleans and activates the entire surface of glass vials, resulting in a high-quality design that is both efficient and cost-effective for the manufacturer. 

"In fact, one of the advantages of Openair-Plasma technology is that it is a cost-effective process. pThis allows the robotized printing and gluing of small decorative elements to take place directly after cleaning and processing, without any interruption to production.the company says.

The glass used is generally produced from primary colors (white, green or brown) to make the bottles and flasks more sophisticated, an essential aspect in the cosmetics industry. This glass is then tinted. For this type of packaging, high quality is required to enable the color to be properly applied. The Openair-Plasma process contributes to the efficiency of the lacquering process generally carried out in the luxury sector with high-quality paint.

In the final stage of the manufacturing process, the glass is coated to prevent damage and scratches. These glass bottles are then mainly screen-printed. The type of coating applied during manufacture determines the quality of adhesion of the printing ink used. 

To ensure good adhesion and uniform color dispersion, particularly on polymer coatings, plasma activation is required to increase surface tension. "Thanks to its robust nozzle system and simple in-line integration, Openair-Plasma technology is the perfect solution for the surface activation required for glass in perfume bottles and flasks".Plasmatreat emphasizes.

From a technical point of view, these applications require Openair RD1004 plasma nozzles, each with a wide nozzle head and a working width of 40 mm. The components move along under the nozzles at the constant speed of the conveyor system.

With the Openair-Plasma process, manufacturers of luxury perfume bottles can benefit from a system that offers several advantages: 

• Surface micro-cleaning to remove impurities and adhering organic particles.
• Use of innovative coating processes and alternative color systems (UV varnishes, solvent-free lacquers).
• Better ink adhesion when screen-printing or pad-printing on glass, even on polymer-coated bottles.
• Improved design.
• Production of complex multi-part bottles.
• Reduced rejection rate (error rate).
• Easy integration of plasma nozzles into coating systems. 

Ultimately, in cosmetic applications, and more particularly in the luxury sector, this surface treatment and cleaning method can prove highly advantageous for obtaining very high quality glass and exclusive, high-end designs.

Beautigloo is carrying out its first capital increase to meet the strong demand it is facing. The funds raised will enable it to increase its production capacity and support its commercial development. A way for the young company to assert its place in the highly competitive electro-beauty sector.

More than two years of R&D were necessary for Beautigloo to design its first product: the Refrigerated Beauty Box. A mini refrigerator equipped with a patented cooling system and an intelligent, environmentally friendly thermal regulation software, which improves the performance of cosmetics according to its designers.

The company, which is facing a strong demand only a few months after its commercialization, announces a 2.7 million euros financing round composed of Business Angels gathered by the shared family office Eukratos, the investment fund Gemmes Venture, BPI France and the Banque Populaire. 

Industrial consolidation 

"We wish to consolidate our industrial presence in France and increase our production capacity in order to continue to internalize the manufacturing of our products. On a daily basis, we rely on our high standards, our expertise and our renowned know-how in order to offer our customers impeccable quality.says Florian Ménard, co-founder and technical director of Beautigloo.

The startup aims to expand its product range and recruit talent to support this growth and hope to become the world leader in refrigerated beauty.

It also wishes to pursue its commercial development in Europe, the United States and Russia where it is already established.

A French innovation prized by cosmetic brands

During the year 2021, Beautigloo saw its revenues triple. The start-up already has many customers - individuals and professionals - including prestigious cosmetics brands such as Biologique Recherche, Dior or L'Oréal.

"We bring value to cosmetic brands by enhancing the beauty experience. With the Refrigerated Beauty Box, the effectiveness of cosmetics is optimized and the sensoriality increased tenfold.says Clara Lizier, co-founder of Beautigloo

The cap for C'est Paris, Carven's latest fragrance, was designed by Thierry de Baschmakoff and produced by TNT Global Manufacturing. Made of glossy black injection-molded PP for the men's version, and metallic gold for the women's, it comprises 4 parts: shell, insert, plate and ballast.

These giant hoods, like life-size inverted pawns, enhance the architectural silhouette of the bottles, whose glass catches the light in a play of textures.

After an initial trial in 2020, Mustela's "Reviens" refillable glass flacon is now available in 21 pharmacies in France. It allows customers to replenish their supplies of Gel lavant doux and Gel lavant certifié Bio, two products offered in refill format.

In 2020, Mustela experimented with the distribution of refillable products in two pilot pharmacies, a first in the baby care market.

Two references were offered: the certifié Bio Washing Gel and, given the health context, a hydroalcoholic gel. In January 2021, the latter was replaced by Gel Lavant Doux, one of the brand's bestsellers. A machine dispenses the product in a 480 ml glass flacon called "Reviens", washable, reusable and recyclable. Empty flacons are made available to consumers in exchange for a 3 euro deposit. To identifier the product and guarantee its traceability, the machine automatically edits a label to stick on the full flacon. All with the same high standards of quality, hygiene and safety as for all the brand's packaged products, Mustela explains.

Conducted over a 12-month period, the trial was part of a wider eco-design approach to products, with a particular focus on reducing packaging. The aim was to validate the environmental benefits of the refill system compared with disposable products.

For over 15 years, the brand has been committed to a militant and ambitious approach aimed at minimizing its impact on man and planet. Among the many avenues for improvement already explored: naturalness, with formulas that today contain an average of 96 % of ingredients of natural origin.¹ but also the creation of an organic range in 2019.

In 2010, it implemented an eco-design policy that has so far saved 145 tonnes of plastic and 65 tonnes of cardboard.² and 100% flacons are now recyclable³. This makes Mustela the first French dermo-cosmetics brand to be certified B Corp in 2018.

Along with several other B Corp companies, it is committed to achieving net zero carbon by 2030, 20 years ahead of the Paris Agreement targets. Among other things, it is stepping up actions to reduce energy consumption at its production site in Epernon (Eure-et-Loir, France), cutting electricity consumption by 19.4%, gas consumption by 24.6 % and water consumption by 13.2 % since 2010.⁴).

"Today, that's not enough. For us, the circular economy and waste reduction are the way forward to further reduce our environmental impact. At every stage of their life cycle, our products must be as virtuous as possible. Every step we take is a further step towards zero waste, stresses Karen Lemasson, CSR and Open Innovation Director at Laboratoires Expanscience. This refill initiative also illustrates our desire to support and encourage consumers in the transition to more responsible consumption patterns."

Avoiding the wrong idea with life-cycle analysis

With the roll-out extended to 21 pharmacies, the experiment has now reached a new milestone. To support its approach, Mustela, with the support of Ademe, drew on the expertise of Coopérative Mu, an eco-design agency, which carried out a life-cycle analysis (LCA) comparing the environmental impact of the refill version of the Gel Lavant certifié Bio with that of its single-use counterpart. The aim was first to ensure that the refillable offer was more virtuous, and then to identificate areas for improvement before moving on to the deployment phase.

As the first step in a life cycle assessment carried out according to a standardized methodology (ISO 14040), Mustela has collected all the data on the product and all the stages in its life cycle, from raw materials (their origin and production conditions), manufacturing (the energy used on the production site), transport, to the finish of its journey (recycling or incineration), not forgetting its use by the final consumer (water consumption for bathing or showering).

All the information was then processed using software to model and prioritize the impact on the environment and on people. "With life cycle analysis, we go far beyond environmental "common sense" and preconceived ideas, explains François-Xavier Ferrari, co-founder of Coopérative Mu. Every product has an impact on the environment! The product that has no impact is the one that doesn't exist. Every eco-design project involves finding the best balance between several requirements: taking into account the environment, taking into account human needs, but also technical and economic requirements".

All these sometimes contradictory requirements mean that the right choices have to be made. For example, Mustela compared the impact of washing the flacon at home and in a carwash before opting for the former, as the network of carwashes is still insuffisufficiently developed in France. A further opportunity to fully involve consumers in the approach.

Recharge wins

Other factors to take into account when calculating a product's environmental impact are its lifespan and number of uses.

Mustela's analysis concludes that the choice of glass refill is more virtuous after three uses of the "Reviens" flacon. A reduction in the product's environmental impact is noted on the main criteria taken into account in the LCA.

Switching from single-use plastic flacon to refillable glass flacon reduces plastic consumption by 76 % and C02 consumption by 220 grams of CO2⁵equivalent to a 5W LED bulb burning for 777 hours.

Compared with the first trial, the pump has been improved to optimize product delivery. Mustela is currently studying the possibility of a fully recyclable pump. The brand offers the option of washing the flacon at home before taking it back to the store, following the washing instructions provided.

<sub>1. Excluding specific treatments such as solairess
2. Between 2010 and 2020
3. According to French market sorting criteria
4. Results recorded between 2010 and 2020, at the Epernon site, per 100 units produced.
5. Comparison between a single-use plastic-packaged washing gel (400ml) and a refillable glass flacon (480ml) over a one-year period (based on three washing gels consumed).</sub>

Bulk market on the rise

The bulk market (all sectors combined) continued to grow in 2020, even if growth was significantly slowed by the health crisis. Growth between 2018 and 2019 was 41 %. With the return to normal, the market should reach 3.2 billion euros in 2022.

Source Réseau Vrac/Nielsen, December 2020.

International trade fairs are back in full swing, and Faca Packaging is launching new eco-friendly packaging to celebrate its 50th anniversary: from recyclable to biodegradable, as well as other sustainable packaging solutions.

Faca Packaging is one of Europe's leading suppliers of high-quality packaging for the cosmetics industry. In 1991, it was the first company in the world to supply PMMA (the world's most transparent plastic) for cosmetics packaging. This year, it offers the first transparent jar in recycled PMMA for cosmetic applications.

The new packaging was presented at the latest Luxepack Monaco trade show, held in the principality from October 3 to 5, 2021. Visitors were able to discover a wide range of jars, dispensers and bottles from the Barcelona plant.

The Spanish company will also be present at PCD Paris and PCD Milan, among other international trade shows.

In the wake of the fragrance in the same line, the new mascara Lash Idôle features a square, faceted and flat design with black and pink metal decoration. The technical prowess of this development belongs to Texen, which deployed all the expertise of its Smart Mascara 4.0 line as part of its partnership with the brand.

The challenge for Lash Idôle mascara was simultaneously aesthetic, technical and industrial. In terms of design, the product had to feature a black flat area of maximum size, in perfect harmony with the perfume bottle. In addition, the metallic look was enhanced by premium square lines. Texen's aesthetic and technical work was highly complex, taking into account production and finishing constraints. Numerous tests were necessary to ensure that the decoration held perfectly during assembly, particularly on the particularly sensitive edges.

Agile, high-speed line

For this large-scale production, Texen customized the functions of its Smart mascara 4.0 line to optimize complex, high-speed production without compromise. Once manufactured, the five parts are assembled in line, until the pink lacquer is applied with a metallic finish. Texen had to innovate its decorating process in order to ensure the continuity of this aluminum lacquering stage, which was unprecedented on this line.  

The 9-ml sales product is accompanied by a 5-ml travel size, initially intended for the US market.

Smart Mascara 4.0

The first-generation Smart Mascara 4.0 integrated line is 100 % automated. Suitable for multi-format mascaras and different types of decors, this line saves time thanks to its high output, secures varnished parts processed in a closed environment, reduces handling and transport, and has a made in France footprint.

The Smart concept (Speed, Modularity, Agility, Reliability by Texen), developed by Texen, is the optimum solution to the CSR challenges of an agile industry. Indeed, the modularity of the latest generations of Smart lines offers partner customers a responsible compromise between competitiveness, optimization of industrial floor space, limitations on intermediate stocks and induced waste, and the use of high-solids varnishes.