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A white paper on energy transition in the cosmetics industry

Energy transition - Cosmed white paper

Cosmed, the trade association for companies in the cosmetics industry, has published its first white paper on energy in the cosmetics sector, an unprecedented resource to support the industry's 7,500 companies in their energy transition.

The document, entitled "Réussir sa transition énergétique" ("Making a success of your energy transition") was presented by the organization in the presence of Corinne Lepage, former French Minister of the Environment and a lawyer specializing in environmental law, at the Cfic trade show held in Orléans on December 3 and 4, 2024.

The result of a collaborative effort with the lawyer, the white paper offers companies in the cosmetics industry a comprehensive overview of current energy issues.

Published by Cosmed, it provides an operational overview of the obligations, deadlines and possible penalties associated with current and forthcoming energy regulations, and presents the actions to be taken to commit companies to their energy transition.

"The transformation of the energy system is no longer an option, but a necessity, initiated by public authorities through new regulations. As a major economic player, the cosmetics sector has a duty to play a full part in this transition.says Jean-Marc Giroux, President of Cosmed.

The book is available free of charge in digital format on the Cosmed website.

Lumson takes inspiration from the color of the year for its new collection of glass bottles

LUMSON_Absolute

Lumson, the Italian specialist in primary cosmetics packaging, pays tribute to the Pantone color of the year 2025, "Mocha Mousse", with its new collection of glass bottles called Absolute.

Lumson's Absolute collection is distinguished by its glossy, semi-transparent brown hue, and comprises seven elegantly crafted glass bottles, combined with droppers or press-on dispensers. Available in sizes ranging from 10 to 30 ml, it aims to highlight the beauty and sophistication inherent in glass. The combination of minimalist sans-serif fonts and refined script typography reinforces the line's understated elegance.

"The choice of brown is deliberate and significant. Much more than a simple alternative to black, it's a warm, enveloping color that conveys a subtle, reassuring luxury. This earthy tone reflects naturalness, authenticity and sophistication, aligning perfectly with the essence of Mocha Mousse, Pantone's color of the year 2025."explains Lumson.

Mocha Mousse - which recalls the sensory pleasures of cocoa, chocolate and coffee in a refined, understated way - accentuates, according to Lumson, the timeless allure of glass. Absolute embodies the manufacturer's characteristic minimalist style, characterized by enveloping colors and pure, uncluttered lines.

Finished in polished silver, the dropper - which allows calibrated dosing - adds a touch of brilliance and sophistication. Made in Italy, the droppers in the Absolute collection are also available in eco-designed options.

Biotechnologies: Seppic opens a laboratory in the United States

Seppic - fermentation biotechnologies

A subsidiary of Air Liquide Healthcare, Seppic is opening a new laboratory dedicated to fermentation biotechnologies at the Air Liquide Group's Delaware Innovation Campus. 

Historically used to produce and preserve foodstuffs, the fermentation process offers many advantages for the cosmetics and health industries. This technology makes it possible to manufacture bio-based ingredients while minimizing their impact on the environment and biodiversity, and controlling land use.

Seppic, which designs, produces and distributes a wide range of specialty ingredients, has just opened a dedicated laboratory in the United States, within the Air Liquide Group's Delaware Innovation Campus. The stated aim: to develop new ingredients combining efficacité and a response to societal challenges in the fields of cosmetics and health, in line with the company's approach to committed innovation.

This choice of location within the Delaware Innovation Campus will enable Seppic to benefit from strong synergies with Air Liquide's other R&D activities on the Campus, where Seppic's American customer service technical center has already been present since 2007, as well as with the very dynamic American research ecosystem in the biotechnology field. This opening in the United States is a significative step in Seppic's strategy of internationalizing its research & innovation.

"Following the opening in 2024 of new Research facilities at our Castres site in France, Seppic continues to invest for the future with this laboratory in the United States. It will enable us to continue innovating for the performance of our ingredients by addressing the needs of our markets".says Managing Director Hannes Moeller.

Albéa announces the acquisition of Conanec Industrie

Albéa - Conanec Industrie

The Albéa Group, a French global specialist in sustainable cosmetics packaging, has announced the acquisition of Conanec Industrie, a Breton company specializing in the manufacture of plastic injection molds and the machining of precision parts. The deal is a continuation of the long-standing relationship between the two companies.

Conanec Industrie, which caters to the cosmetics, pharmaceutical, food, medical and defense industries, has been supplying molds to Albéa for many years. The Conanec Industrie plant employs 18 people and will henceforth be an integral part of the Group's 35 sites. Conanec Industrie will continue to serve all its customers, who will now benefit from Albéa's advantages.

This acquisition marks a milestone in the strategy of the Albéa Group. Conanec Industrie will complement the production work carried out at Albéa's Shanghai moldshop with high-end tooling finishing and maintenance. This synergy will optimize costs and reduce production lead times, while enhancing the quality of services offered to customers.

"This acquisition will enable us to develop a hybrid Sino-French model, making us more agile and competitive in the service of our customers. We are proud to be integrating a fine local company and to be contributing to the preservation of French industrial know-how, by perpetuating the values of its founder, Daniel Conanec, through a local and responsible approach. "said Bertrand de la Tour d'Artaise, Executive Vice President and Head of M&A for the Albéa Group.

Christopher Sabater takes over as CEO of TechnicoFlor

Christopher Sabater - Technicoflor

With a background in international trade and almost 10 years' experience within the company, Christopher Sabater takes over the management of the family perfume house TechnicoFlor. 

On January 2, 2025, 33-year-old Christopher Sabater officially took over as Chairman and CEO of TechnicoFlor, succeeding his father François-Patrick Sabater, who created and developed TechnicoFlor for 44 years. 

International ambitions

A graduate of an international business school, Christopher Sabater joined TechnicoFlor in 2015, during his final year of studies. He then managed a strategic merger and acquisition in Shanghai, and rethought the sales and marketing strategy to adapt it to the Asian market. His initial management experience enabled him, in 2016, to take charge of the "Middle East and Africa" market, a fast-growing market combining perfume tradition and growing demand for modernity. In eight years, he opened an office in Dubai to improve responsiveness and strengthen close ties with local brands, surrounded himself with some thirty employees (including three perfumers), also opened an office in Kenya and Saudi Arabia, and increased TechnicoFlor's share of sales in the Middle East/Africa segment from 10 % to 35 %.

At the same time, Christopher Sabater oversees markets in South-East Asia, notably India, Indonesia and China. He plays an active role in the company's strategic decisions, such as the construction of a new 10,000 m² automated plant in Beautéville, near Shanghai. 

"My father and I have worked hand in hand for many years. His innovative vision has always guided our strategic choices, and I'm delighted to be taking over the reins of our family business with the same passion and commitment to continue writing our history, what's more, alongside my brother Jérémy Sabater, perfumer".he confides.

Towards a new era

Christopher Sabater's ambition is to intensify TechnicoFlor's initiatives in terms of social and environmental responsibility, which are already at the heart of the company's DNA, relying on biotechnologies to respect the environment while consuming fewer resources.

A pioneer in fragrance eco-design thanks to its Afnor-certified "FlorIndex" tool, the company continues to reduce its carbon footprint as well as its water and energy consumption. "I want to make our Group an exemplary global player, committed to both the environment and society, with ever greater transparency and ethics.says the executive.

Christopher Sabater also aims to position TechnicoFlor at the forefront of innovation, using artificial intelligence as a lever to broaden the horizons of creativity. Already a pioneer in automation, the company is exploring the potential of AI to support its 14 perfumers in designing new formulas, optimizing processes and why not even anticipating tomorrow's trends. "AI will never replace a perfumer, but it can significantly increase creative productivity tenfold", he asserts. He also sees in this technology an opportunity to revolutionize perfumery by creating personalized fragrances, for example, or to see the birth of new olfactory families, or even to pave the way for unprecedented sensory experiences.

A transition of continuity

Christopher Sabater's ambition is to preserve the company's family independence, while guaranteeing its creativity and capacity for innovation. 

In terms of international development, he intends to double the company's sales over the next five years, while increasing the number of production units from three to five, with plans to set up operations in India, the United States and Latin America. 

François Patrick Sabater will remain on the Supervisory Board, as well as at the head of API Holding, where he will continue to focus his efforts on flavors and raw materials through the various subsidiaries. 

Greener varnish formulas

FIABILA - Green formulas

Founded in 1977, Fiabila offers a wide range of technologies and formulas for nail polish, special effects and daily or specific care, sometimes combined for a color and care approach thanks to its mastery of all the manufacturing processes available on this market.

The company, which employs over 500 people including 55 dedicated to R&D worldwide, in 10 plants in six countries (France, Poland, India, Japan, USA and Brazil), claims to offer an alternative to the manufacture of conventional varnish formulas, replacing up to 86 % of responsibly sourced synthetic ingredients with naturally sourced solvents and polymers derived from wheat, cane sugar, manioc and corn.

These exclusive formulas are combined with a specific pigment and pearl suspension principle, and contain ingredients that comply with ISO 16128 standards. They are processed in compliance with green chemistry standards. 

A member of the Global Compact program and EcoVadis Platinum rated, Fiabila is committed to reducing the appearance of hazardous substances and their release into the environment for all its products.

Armani makeup artists use Cosmogen brushes

COSMOGEN - ARMANI - Professional Brushes 2

Cosmogen has created a set of 13 professional brushes used by Armani's makeup artists during the brand's runway shows, or at events where the brand is a partner.

This collection is characterized by the harmony of the ARMANI red hue, between the FSC wood handle and the aluminum ferrule, both made of different materials. The synthetic bristles adopt a variety of tones depending on the tuft. Each tuft has been studied to achieve a complete and perfected result.

This is recognition for Cosmogen, which prides itself on its expertise in the design of make-up application accessories. At the Luxe Pack trade show held in Monaco from September 30 to October 2, 2024, the supplier of innovative application solutions launched a professional set of five brushes specifically designed to perfect facial complexions: a foundation brush to even out the face, a concealer brush to conceal dark circles, a powder brush for loose/compact powder, a blush brush to tint cheeks, and a highlighter brush to sculpt cheekbones. These brushes feature aluminum handles with a matte finish. The bristles are made of PBT.

TNT Group produces its first Limex cap for Noyz fragrances

Noyz - TNT Group


Beach House Group has created the high-end Noyz fragrances, "witnesses to real life and authentic stories."

To respect the environment, Noyz bottles are highly recyclable. The cap has been designed to produce only a small carbon footprint.

Beach House Group has entrusted TNT Group, specialists in the design, development and manufacture of primary and secondary packaging, with the development and production of the Limex cap. This new material is composed of 35 to 45 % of calcium carbonate (lime) and polypropylene, thus reducing the use of plastic. 

Limex is 50 % heavier than PP. It can therefore be left unballasted. It also has a beautiful natural satin effect, which should be left as is, unless a specific finish is required. Noyz has opted for a ceramic-like finish.

Noyz received the Visual Impact Award at the gala dinner NJPEC 2024 Package of the Yearheld on December 5, 2024 at the Madison Hotel in Morristown, NJ (USA).

Slow down skin ageing with rapid skin analysis

L'Oréal CellBio Print

At CES 2025, the L'Oréal group unveiled L'Oréal Cell BioPrint, a device that allows you to carry out a personalized analysis of your skin in just a few minutes, and deliver customized advice.

L'Oréal Cell BioPrint can calculate the skin's age and provide advice on how to slow the appearance of signs of aging. The device also analyzes each individual's reactivity to key ingredients such as retinol, and offers a proactive approach to skin care: will the skin be prone to pigmentation spots or dilated pores? L'Oréal Cell BioPrint can help anticipate potential cosmetic inconveniences before they become visible, enabling us to act proactively and thus preserve the beauty of our skin.

"At L'Oréal, we are resolutely focused on the future of beauty, combining our century-old leadership in skin science with our latest scientific discoveries. The skin is the largest organ of the human body, and one of the essential components of everyone's well-being. That's why we're delighted to unveil L'Oréal Cell BioPrint, a microfluidic 'lab-on-a-chip' innovation that gives everyone access to in-depth information about their skin, via the analysis of specific biomarkers. In this way, everyone can proactively take care of their beauty and the longevity of their skin", explains Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice-President in charge of Research, Innovation and Technology at L'Oréal Groupe.

The exclusive microfluidic lab-on-a-chip technology developed by NanoEntek uses over 100 patents to measure in five minutes the presence of L'Oréal's innovative protein biomarkers, identified for the first time by L'Oréal's advanced research team. L'Oréal Cell BioPrint is based on L'Oréal's Longevity Integrative Science, a revolutionary approach that studies the correlating links between human body mechanisms and skin appearance.

L'Oréal Cell BioPrint works through a simple, non-invasive three-step process: applying an adhesive patch to the cheek, then placing it in a buffer solution; loading the solution into the L'Oréal Cell BioPrint cartridge and inserting it into the machine for analysis; while L'Oréal Cell BioPrint processes the sample, taking several images of the face through the Skin Connect device. A short questionnaire on skin concerns and signs of aging is completed during this final stage.

L'Oréal Cell BioPrint is due to be launched with a L'Oréal Groupe brand in Asia during 2025.

The quest for greater personalization in skincare

L'Oréal points out that growth in the global skincare market, which is expected to reach $125 billion in 20242is driven by consumers looking for information and increasingly effective, personalized products for their skin. 

According to a recent US survey of 2,000 skincare users, nearly 80 % of them said they relied on the empirical method to determine what worked for them. Each person having tried an average of seven different cleansers before finding one that worked for them3.

2. BMS T2024l.
3. Produced by OnePoll in collaboration with CeraVe.
2
"Clinical vs. chronological skin age: exploring determinants and stratum corneum protein markers of differential skin aging in 351 healthy women."by A. Foucher, S. Nouveau, V. Piffaut, S. Marque, L. Aguilar & N. Cavusoglu, Nature, October 9, 2024.

Photo: © L'Oréal Groupe

Wheaton to present innovative and sustainable glass packaging solutions at Paris Packaging Week

Wheaton - Paris Packaging Wee

Brazilian glass giant Wheaton will be showcasing its expertise in the design and production of sophisticated, durable glass packaging at its third consecutive Paris Packaging Week. The company will be present at PCD, one of the world's leading packaging trade shows for perfumes, cosmetics and personal care. The event, to be held at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, will bring together 750 exhibitors and 14,000 participants, including 2,900 brand owners and design agencies. 

Wheaton will be presenting several product lines to strengthen its position in the beauty packaging market.

Developed to exploit the sustainable qualities of glass packaging, the Ecoglass line aims to promote the circular economy and, above all, reduce the consumption of raw materials taken from nature. It has just received a new 200-ml bottle (MB-1551-S), designed from a refill proposal, promoting the circular economy. 

Innovative products

This new bottle is lightweight, with around 20 % less glass mass than traditional bottles, resulting in a significant reduction in energy consumption, as well as a reduction of around 15 % in CO2 emissions.

The screw cap allows the fragrance to be refilled, encouraging the conscious use of packaging, while facilitating the recycling process, uniting innovation and environmental responsibility.

Wheaton will also be presenting its new collection of standard bottles, which now includes three new containers, retaining the same format in different size options. With a modern, elegant design and a thick base, these bottles are available in capacities of 100 ml (MB-1581-N1), 50 ml (MB-1582-N1) and 30 ml (SB-1767-N1), following international perfumery concepts.

In the field of decoration, the company will be presenting special hot stamping ribbons. This technique consists of a decoration process using thermal tape, which produces recordings in different colors and, this time, with numerous options for differentiated effects.

Another technology will be on display at the event: Crystal Effect Painting, obtained by applying a special varnish, creates a particular effect around the paint, giving each bottle a special aesthetic. This process enhances the sophistication of glass packaging, offering both a captivating visual aspect and a tactile sensation.

Wheaton has also mastered a technique that lends bottles a sense of nobility, sophistication, beauty and depth, with a marble-effect paint. Reminiscent of natural stone, the paint offers a technological and modern aesthetic, linking the consumer to nature, with a different result for each piece.

EcoVadis Silver Medal

To promote sustainability in its packaging and processes, the Brazilian company has created a multidisciplinary group dedicated to ESG issues, which evaluates and implements actions to ensure Wheaton's long-term sustainable viability.

Distinguished with an EcoVadis Silver Medal in June 2024, which places the company among the top 15 % companies on criteria such as environment, ethics, labor practices and human rights, as well as sustainable purchasing, Wheaton has been using exclusively electricity from certified renewable water sources in its industrial park since 2023, resulting in the total neutralization of Scope 2 greenhouse gas emissions.

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