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[podcast 1/5] Luxe Pack 2021: exhibitors present their innovations

New series of episodes for Cosmetalks ! We went to the Luxe Pack trade show in Monaco at the end of September and interviewed exhibitors on their stands to find out what they were presenting to the market.

For the first episode of the series, meet Technature on the "Luxe formulation" segment and with Quadpack, Verpack and Texen in the classic "Luxury Pack" segment. Here, innovation comes in the form of powders, a new airless standard, single-material boxes and ever-more innovative proposals. green

As the interviews were conducted in the aisles, we couldn't guarantee "studio" sound, but we're sure you'll be understanding... 🙂

Plant Advanced Technologies PAT takes part in the European InnCoCells research project

Plant Advanced Technologies PAT, a plant biotechnology company in Lorraine, announces its participation in the InnCoCells project, officially launched in May 2021 and coordinated by VTT (VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland Ltd). This project aims to revolutionize the way scientifically validated cosmetic ingredients are discovered, developed and produced.

A European-scale project

InnCoCells is a four-year collaborative research project, bringing together the varied skills and expertise of 17 partners in 11 European countries, including academic institutes, SMEs and industrial partners, NGOs and sectoral organizations such as Cosmetic Valley. The research is funded by the European Commission, with a total budget of 7.9 million euros. PAT's participation is financed to the tune of 750 k€ for the duration of the project.

PAT's expertise in sustainable cosmetics ingredients

PAT will apply its expertise in aeroponics, extract production and phytochemistry to the development of new, sustainable cosmetic ingredients.

Its subsidiary Straticell, which specializes in in vitro efficacy studies for skin care products, will also be involved in this project.

Meeting the needs and challenges of sustainable cosmetics

The InnCoCells project is part of Horizon 2020, a European funding program designed to boost Europe's competitiveness in research and innovation.

The collaborative project aims to use innovative plant-based production processes that meet stringent environmental protection and resource-saving requirements.

The plants selected for the work, currently threatened by overexploitation, will be cultivated in a sustainable and profitable way to ensure that the new ingredients pose no risk to biodiversity.

This project should enable the commercial exploitation of cosmetic ingredients validated by a scientific approach, using a variety of cultivation techniques based on the expertise of each partner, such as plant biotechnologies, economical industrial processes and knowledge of plants in the case of PAT.

The project explores an approach geared towards responsible consumers, in order to develop cosmetic ingredients adapted to the market and in tune with environmental preservation aspirations.

Staying at the forefront of innovation

Frédéric Bourgaud, Executive Vice President, Research: "We're delighted to be taking part in the InnCoCells project, which promises to be ambitious and rich in innovation. This type of project is an excellent way of interacting with leading laboratories in Europe (VTT, Vib, List, Enea, TUDA, ILVO etc.) and enabling our research staff to participate in the latest advances in their fields."

Refillable airless

Lablabo has developed a refillable airless. The French company, which specializes in airless pouches, presented its Baïa Refill innovation at Luxe Pack 2021.

Baïa Refill combines design and elegance with its glass body in two sizes, 30 ml and 50 ml. 

This airless pack is refillable with a PE or aluminum pouch ranging from 15 ml to 50 ml.

Equipped with a 0.25 ml or 0.5 ml pump, Baia Refill is compatible with highly viscous creams as well as liquids.

It can also be customized with silk-screen printing, and can be lacquered or frosted.

Baïa Refill can easily be refilled five times, reducing the plastic content by up to 80 % and is 100 % recyclable.

Very easy to use, this airless pack requires no special machinery for packaging.

Morgane Jouot, General Manager, France, La Prairie

Morgane jouot, 43, has been appointed General Manager France for La Prairie, the Swiss luxury cosmetics house. Reporting to Laurent Marteau, VP EMEA & Americas, she takes up her post on July 1, 2021.

Morgane Jouot said: "I am very honored by this appointment and happy to be able to count on committed teams to continue deploying the La Prairie house strategy in the French market."

After graduating from Neoma Business School in Reims in 2000 and gaining initial experience with the Johnson&Johnson cosmetics group, Morgane Jouot joined the Beiersdorf group in 2004, where she held various marketing & sales positions for the Nivea, Labello and Florena brands. In 2012, she became Marketing & Communications Director France & Benelux. At the head of a team of fifty people, she developed strategy, set up pilot initiatives such as the Naturally Good green beauty line, and led the digital transformation of these brands in her sector.

"With over twenty years' experience in the skincare and cosmetics market, Morgane Jouot is a performance-driven leader and seasoned manager. She will bring her in-depth knowledge of the French market and her expertise in beauty in a multi-channel universe to deploy Maison La Prairie's "Luxury Execution" strategy of excellence".the company says.

CNRS mobilizes to support the Perfumery-Cosmetics industry

With sales of 25 billion euros, 25 % of world market share and 170,000 employees1The Perfumery-Cosmetics sector is undoubtedly the world's number 1. This fast-growing, innovation-driven market has needs that go far beyond chemistry, and the CNRS aims to meet them.

The challenges facing the Perfumery-Cosmetics industry and CNRS

Even if cosmetics formulation remains at the heart of consumers' expectations (effectiveness, comfort...), they are increasingly looking for healthy, natural and personalized formulas, and expect cosmetics brands to be committed to the environment.

To meet all these expectations, the Perfumery-Cosmetics sector has set itself the challenges of tomorrow:

  • eBeauty to design connected measurement tools, personalized cosmetics and even those adapted to the skin's changing needs.
  • The Blue Beauty movement, which seeks to reduce the environmental footprint by designing packaging and products that are solid or powdered and formulated without water, or by using vegetable-based inks.
  • Naturalness to design the organic and natural products of the future or launch sustainable plant cultivation programs, for example.
  • Safety, quality and traceability...

To support the perfume and cosmetics industry, researchers and companies need to work hand in hand. In all these areas, the CNRS, which already works with a large number of French cosmetics companies, is strongly mobilized and a force for innovation, because the cosmetics challenges of the future are also scientific challenges, including in fundamental research. eBeauty, for example, calls on fields of research such as data science, artificial intelligence and robotization. The Blue Beauty movement, for its part, calls for innovative work on materials science to design the new packaging and containers of tomorrow.

In addition to the research carried out by its laboratories, the CNRS offers services to companies, particularly in the cosmetics sector...

CNRS Formation Entreprises: the CNRS continuing education organization

To prepare its 2022 catalog, CNRS Formation Entreprises, the CNRS's continuing education organization since 1987, looked at the needs of industrial sectors (as well as those of companies: VSEs, SMEs, ETIs and major groups), as it is a real desire of the CNRS and in particular its Corporate Relations Department to combine the knowledge available within its laboratories with the research challenges of the various industrial sectors.

For the Perfumery-Cosmetics sector, the organization offers 5 flagship training courses:

CNRS Formation Entreprises can also organize customized, in-company training courses to better adapt to business needs. This solution is particularly interesting when a company needs to upgrade the skills of a whole (new) team, or of staff from different departments who need to work on the same project. There's no limit to the subject you can study, as the CNRS has 1,100 laboratories and 90,000 research players in every possible field.

Trouver un Expert, the service that puts companies in touch with CNRS experts

Created in 2020, the Find an expert has already helped associations and major French cosmetics groups. Its role? To identify and put in touch business players who request it with the CNRS expert, team or laboratory with the knowledge and know-how to help them in their thinking, idea or project.

The request may, for example, concern a state of the art, the search for knowledge and skills in a field (which is sometimes not the one the requester has in mind!), a need for characterization, to remove a technological barrier, to validate an innovative idea from a technical and technological point of view...

The service is a real gateway to CNRS laboratories, and its concept is simple: you simply submit your request by filling in a form on the CNRS website. findunexpert.cnrs.frThe team will then get back to you to discuss the project, refine it if necessary, and start looking for the expert best suited to meet your needs. In two or three weeks, you'll have found your "pearl"!

The DRE Industrial Sectors strategy

As part of its 2019-2023 objectives and performance contract, the CNRS has confirmed its commitment to giving an increasingly important place to relations with the business world, and has set up a strategy for approaching French industrial sectors, including the Perfumery-Cosmetics sector. The CNRS is thus in a position to co-construct joint research roadmaps with the players concerned, which serve as a basis for identifying, proposing and conducting pre-competitive projects in relation to the industry, as well as for developing bilateral or multilateral relations with companies in the sector. Thanks to the skills and know-how of its laboratories, CNRS is able to offer innovative and disruptive technologies that are essential for winning or regaining market share. Under the responsibility of a Scientific Advisor (Prof. Richard Daniellou, Cosmetics Project Manager and Director of Groupement Cosm'actifs)) - Industrial Cooperation Manager (Marie Côte, PhD) This department's mission is to listen to the industry, to understand the challenges along the entire value chain, and to translate these into research needs in a dynamic partnership development process, taking advantage of the trans-disciplinary wealth offered by the establishment.


Come and meet them at Cosmetic360 on October 13 and 14! Or contact us at contact-filiè[email protected] 

Find out more about CNRS Formation Entreprises : https://cnrsformation.cnrs.fr

Find out more about Trouver un Expert du CNRS : https://trouverunexpert.cnrs.fr

Find out more about the CNRS Corporate Relations Department: https://entreprise.cnrs.fr 

1. https://www.bpifrance.fr/nos-actualites/la-filiere-cosmetique-une-industrie-au-parfum#:~:text=Avec%20un%20chiffre%20d’affaires,ne%20cesse%20de%20se%20d%C3%A9velopper%20

Nutritional beauty supplements: a factory in the Allier region

Passionate about cosmetics and new trends, Fleur Phelipeau, creator of the D-Lab Nutricosmétics nutritional supplements brand, founded D-Lab in 2019. The company develops and distributes nutritional beauty supplements in the form of programs or individually. 

The D-Lab factory in 2021. "Above all, it's a story of desire. A childhood passion for industry. My eyes were wide open when my father took me to the beverage and bottling plants at Vichy Célestins. I've always found it a fantastic world!says the founder.

A 100% greentech plant Made in France

To take the vision and values dear to the 35-year-old entrepreneur even further, the factory project was born. This 2,600 m2 facility in France is designed to produce food supplements using 100% of Green Tech ingredients chosen for their naturalness and bioavailability. 

And since Vichy and Made in France are part of D-Lab's DNA, the plant is located in the heart of the Naturopôle in St-Bonnet de Rochefort, in the Allier region.

A space dedicated to the production of food supplements

7440 m2 of land and a 2610 m2 building will bring together all the stages in the development of food supplements: from storage to production, including packaging, assembly, laboratories and offices. This represents an investment of 3.5 million euros to create the factory of tomorrow. 

From player to channel

The D-Lab Industry factory is designed to have as little negative impact as possible on the environment. Rainwater harvesting for watering, eco-friendly insulation, solar panels for energy self-sufficiency, optimized transport, zero waste policy... The construction site itself has been awarded the low environmental impact label, for a coherent 100 % approach. With one ambition: to move from player to industry. "We don't just want to produce our own food supplements for ease or cost, we want to produce for players who share the same values as us: clean, natural, local, caring and ethical".emphasizes Fleur Phelipeau.

Christophe de Villeplée appointed President of IFF's Scent Division

IFF, the American group specializing in global fragrance creation, has announced the appointment of Christophe de Villeplée as President of its Scent division, effective September 1, 2021. He becomes a member of the Group Executive Committee and succeeds Nicolas Mirzayantz, who has been appointed President of the Nourish division, replacing Kathy Fortmann.

Christophe de Villeplée (ISG, INSEAD) takes up this new position, based in Paris, after twenty years with IFF, where he held managerial positions in Europe and the USA. For the past two years he has been President, Global Consumer Fragrances.

For the future of the division, he will focus on four major areas: transforming creation; deepening scientific understanding of the emotional benefits of fragrance; accelerating the sustainable development strategy by integrating biotechnologies, thanks to IFF's recent merger with Dupont's Nutrition and Biosciences division, now part of IFF; and the digitalization of fragrance.

IFF's Scent division has sales of two billion dollars, divided between four categories: fine fragrances, beauty care, perfumery ingredients and cosmetics ingredients. IFF's perfumers are responsible for such perfumery classics as Lancôme's La vie est belle, YSL's Paris and Estée Lauder's Aromatics Elixir, as well as more recent successes such as Givenchy's L'Interdit, Paco Rabanne's Phantom and Armani My Way. They are also responsible for fragrances known worldwide for their use in laundry detergents, fabric softeners, shower gels, shampoos and all scented consumer products.

Plutonium from Collection35, finalist of Beautyworld Middle East 2021

The avant-garde brand collection35 faces a new challenge with the fragrance Plutonium by young designer Chana Cynamon. Winner of the Marine 2018 edition, this fragrance is now a Beautyworld Middle East 2021 finalist in the niche fragrance category. Results will be announced on October 5.

An avant-garde brand, revealing the talents of tomorrow

Collection35 is a perfume brand with a singular history. It was born out of the international Corpo 35 Perfume Awards competition, whose aim was to democratize the culture of perfume creation among the general public. Each edition aims to reveal young international perfumers (students, apprentice perfumers, experts or self-taught enthusiasts...), on a proposed theme.

Cécile Vialla, creator of the Berry perfume house, created the Corpo35 Perfume awards and collection35 competition in 2015. Collection35 is thus an olfactory art gallery that launches the rising stars of contemporary perfumery by bottling their first creations.

One theme, five winners, five interpretations

The 35 finalists are offered creation tools such as access to the Isipca laboratory and EcoMundo's regulatory support software, as well as quality raw materials provided by prestigious sponsors. The Marine edition, from which Plutonium emerged, was sponsored by Robertet, the historic house from Grasse, committed to local raw materials since 1850.

In the run-up to the 2019 Rouen Armada, candidates in the 2018 edition were invited to "reinvent the Navy". A classic perfumery scheme, marine notes bring as much freshness as they evoke adventure and freedom. An immense source of inspiration for young perfumers.

Chana Cynamon Prix de l'Audace, a disruptive fragrance 

Inspired by the adventurers of the French Navy, who set off for several years at sea on huge ships to discover unknown lands, Plutonium won the fifth prize of the 2018 edition as well as the Audacity prize. 

Yesterday's adventurers inspired Chana Cynamon. She has imagined the great adventure of tomorrow: the conquest of space. Plutonium opens with an explosion of menthol, like the supersonic wake of a rocket in icy space. The metal spaceship lands on an unknown planet, releasing an aromatic, humid trail that promises a land of life. This is followed by a musky, milky, abstract trail that finally envelops the senses. A presence appears, a skin warmed by a sun different from our own.

An exceptional perfumer

Chana Cynamon, creator of Plutonium, is a perfumer who likes to break with codes and challenge them. Playing with overdoses, novel raw materials and short formulas, her aim is to provoke sensory shocks and heighten emotions. A disruptive spirit cultivated by her curiosity, her openness to the world and her taste for all forms of creativity.

A brand committed to creation and its values

The olfactory art gallery collection35 promotes a perfumery that is both atypical and multicultural. Its aim is to promote perfume culture and industry know-how in France and abroad.

collection35 undertakes social and solidarity-based manufacturing. It supports inclusive growth by working with partners committed to supporting the most vulnerable.

collection35 promotes and democratizes the culture of perfume to the general public in an ethical and responsible way.

The fragrances are all of guaranteed French origin, thanks to partners mainly from Normandy who have worked alongside Cécile Vialla since the beginning of the adventure. 

Coverpla partners with French Biscotos and Musa Paradisiaca

French Biscotos shakes things up with an original collection born of a model family adventure. For the launch of six fragrances with unforgettable names, the brand entrusted the development of the packaging to Coverpla: bottle and cap, pump and pump cover.

Beau bébé, Dur à cuire, Garde du corps, Loup de mer, Loup solitaire, Maître-nageur, the six masculine fragrances take a singular olfactory approach. Going beyond the cliché of the perfect man, they allow themselves a healthy dose of humor and derision. 

For this six-act development, French Biscotos has opted for the French savoir-faire advocated by Coverpla: standard bottles and caps, and a turnkey, personalized quality offering. French Biscotos chose the Parme bottle in 100 ml format for its curved body and thick base. The Gator cap accompanies it in a gunmetal hue. It owes its elegance to an aluminum cap decorated with knurling. Inside, the insert is injected with recycled surlyn.

In the case of Cristian Cavagna's Musa Paradisiaca fragrance, Coverpla followed the brand in its choice of a packaging shape evocative of its name and essence. The challenge was met with a range of standard bottles by Coverpla.

Musa Paradisiaca is the botanical name for the plantain. Its fragrance is the first of seven shades of tuberose, and is part of the "tuberose according to me" line. For this juice, both feminine and masculine, Cristian Cavagna wanted a bottle that evoked both the banana flower and the feminine hip. This is achieved with the Nice vapo (100 ml), elegantly striated to match the Maggiore cap. The brand has added a metallic label whose golden note pays homage to Gustave Klimt.

Coverpla's "mix and match" concept came into its own in this development. The choice of standard models with selected designs was used for an ultra-customized turnkey development.

[podcast] Are speed and quality incompatible?

site-industries-cosmetiques The end of sleepless nights, podcasts

Season 2 of "La fin des nuits blanches" (The end of sleepless nights), the show that helps you in your daily life as a cosmetician, brought to you by Veeva.

The challenge of this new episode is to ask a fundamental question: are speed and quality incompatible? To answer Nicolas Gosse's questions, David Égée will draw on his experience in medical imaging and the cosmetics sector, in particular his 7 years as Quality Director at Parfums Christian Dior.

In other episodes, we look at customer/supplier relations and regulatory constraints...

Listen now on our website or on all your podcast platforms.

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