On the occasion of the Luxe Pack trade show, we've decided to offer you our latest issue (September 2021), for those of you who can't make it to the show and carry our magazine in your bag.
In addition to product and market news, expert opinions on cosmetology, technology or regulations, you can discover our "perfumery" section or our focus on the feel-good beauty and our special report on nutricosmetics.
Free access to our latest issue, just click here.
Enjoy your reading!
Henkel, L'Oréal, LVMH, Natura &Co and Unilever announce a unique global collaboration to co-develop an industry-wide rating system for the environmental impact of beauty products. The objective is to develop a system that is common to all companies in the cosmetics sector and that provides consumers with clear, transparent and comparable information using a common scientific methodology. The five companies invite other cosmetics players to join this initiative.
This new rating system aims to meet the growing demand of consumers for transparency regarding the environmental impact of cosmetic products (formula, packaging and use). The objective is to improve the information available to consumers, thus enabling them to make more sustainable consumption choices.
To this end, a consortium will be created and opened to all companies in the sector wishing to collaborate in order to co-create a device allowing consumers to compare cosmetic products within the same category. The aim is for the overall score to inform consumers of the environmental impact of products, taking into account their entire life cycle.
It is proposed that the consortium work with the consulting firm Quantis, to ensure a robust and scientific approach, and that efforts to co-construct the methodology and voluntary rating system be guided and articulated around:
1. A common method for measuring environmental impacts throughout the life cycle of products, based on the principles of the Product Environmental Footprint (PEF), the European Union's scientific method for quantifying the environmental footprint of products;
2. A common database on the environmental impacts of standard ingredients and raw materials used in formulations, packaging and during use.
3. A common tool allowing each brand to calculate the environmental impact of each of its products, and usable by non-specialists.
4. A harmonized rating system, e.g. with a score from A to E, that allows the consumer to easily compare products. The methodology, databases and tool of this system will be verified by independent auditors.
This initiative is open to all players in the cosmetics sector, regardless of their size or resources. A panel of independent experts will also be informed and consulted throughout the process. The companies behind the initiative will share their experience and knowledge in the development of environmental impact assessment systems (such as those designed by Henkel, L'Oréal, LVMH, Natura &Co and Unilever) and environmental and social display systems (such as the one developed by L'Oréal). All companies will benefit from this pre-existing work and are invited to contribute their own experience. The consortium will also consult with external experts, including scientists, academics and NGOs to ensure the continued integrity of their approach. The work developed by the consortium will be made public and accessible, on a strictly voluntary basis, to both consortium members and any other interested parties.
"It is possible in the cosmetics sector, as it has been done in other sectors, to build a scientific system for assessing the environmental impact of products, based on a complete life cycle analysis. The condition is the pooling of knowledge and expertise, particularly concerning environmental impact data; this is the path that the founding members of the consortium are committed to "Philippe Osset, an expert in the application of life cycle assessments to eco-design, is a consultant providing his expertise to the European Commission and Afnor (French Association for Standardization).
Cosmetics Europe has agreed to follow the activities of the consortium as an observer, other professional associations are being contacted to participate.
Louboutin entrusted TNT Global Manufacturing with the design of its luxurious, magnetic, refillable makeup case adorned with the iconic Christian Louboutin silver spikes.
TNT Global Manufacturing designs, develops and manufactures high-end metal - zamak, aluminum, brass, stainless steel - and plastic components for the perfume, cosmetics and make-up industries.
Available in black and red, the make-up case also takes up the codes of the brand's iconic sole. A key allows to extract and replace the palette of shades.
The Cosfibel group's aim is to understand and support brands in their innovations, and to provide them with inspiration. For the Luxe Pack trade show, the group has designed a special box featuring nine boxes illustrating its multi-material expertise and creative and technical maturity.
By assembling nine miniatures (10 cm X 10 cm) in a square box (35 cm X 35 cm), Cosfibel presents, in the manner of a kaleidoscope, the nine materials it offers brands for the production of their boxes and cases. Each presents an eco-responsible creation based on a chosen material: card and cardboard, microflute, molded pulp, various species of wood (ash, paulownia), cork, tin, rPET. From the simplest to the most sophisticated, from the most classic to the most innovative, each evokes a specific universe.
In each creation, a technical data sheet presents the material: origin, certification, recyclability, and other technical information including usage, resistance, life cycle...
With the ReBel collection, Cosfibel positions itself as an expert in multiple material solutions. It affirms its commitment to eco-responsibility by focusing on its 4R rule (reduce, reuse, recycle, rethink). The ReBel spirit brings extra creativity and revises the codes of luxury, betting on the monomaterial trend.
Dalmec presents a new Partner Equo industrial manipulator designed for handling plastic drums and equipped with a gripping tool adapted to metal grippers. This new system has been designed specifically for picking up, lifting and transferring plastic drums, so as to position them above a tank or other drum and allow them to be emptied at the end of the stroke.
Always in search of innovation, and in line with its commitment to the fight against RSI, Dalmec has developed this new equipment by equipping it with a customized gripping tool for picking up drums of different diameters, capable of reversing the load through 180° thanks to a pneumatic device.
This new equipment is an easy-to-use, column-mounted, self-balancing pneumatic solution designed to meet the handling needs of a wide range of industrial sectors.
For example, this new drum manipulator can be used to prepare mixtures and pour powders, grains, salts, liquids or other ingredients in the food, chemical, cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries, as well as in the construction industry for the manufacture of building materials.
In order to facilitate safe and easy handling of drums with loads of up to 400 kg, and in view of the limited ceiling height available in central weighing plants, this manipulator is available in a low-profile version.
Designed for balancing and compensating heavy loads, this new Partner Equo manipulator has been designed to adapt to the type, dimensions and loads of the drums to be handled, in accordance with the needs of users and their working environment, whether in a workshop with limited space or on a production line, and to do so quickly, precisely and safely, without any effort.
The Dalmec Partner Equo is a pneumatic manipulator with an articulated arm that balances the weight of the applied load evenly and stably in the absence of effort.
All movements are obtained by simple manual guidance, which guarantees high precision of movements applied to the load. Its modular structure has been designed to withstand the torsion generated by this type of load. This equipment fits perfectly into cramped working environments, thanks to its evolutionary structure and the infinite possibilities of varying the shapes and dimensions of the terminal arm.
This equipment complies with the requirements of European Machinery Directive 2006/42/EC, and has been subjected to a risk analysis.
Features Partner Equo :
After several successful launches in this field, Texen Beauty Partners launches its all-cardboard skincare and make-up collection. Palettes and cases, sticks and lipsticks rival each other in charm and combine the advantages of eco-design.
This innovative proposal is based on Texen's mission to transform material into experience in a virtuous way. Here, the alternative of FSC-certified cardboard guarantees all the expected packaging functions: protection, resistance, design...
Cardboard, a safe bet
Ultra-green in terms of weight and recyclability, cardboard is the right thickness for strength and hold. Easy to shape, it can be used for all types of decoration. With no need for tooling, it is the champion of agile development and short production runs. It responds to current trends for products as sober as they are premium.
For this collection, Texen has developed an eye palette with a sliding opening and 3 color cups, a stick designed to hold solid galenics (mask, face cleanser, deodorant, etc.), activated by a push-button system, two models of premium compacts featuring a mirror and, for one of the two models, a slot for an applicator located under the compact powder, and a lipstick that can be refilled by simply clipping it on. The entire collection is fully customizable in terms of design and decoration.
N°5 by Chanel is constantly reinventing itself. In 1921, Gabrielle Chanel overturned the codes of perfumery by choosing a bottle stripped of all ornamentation. In 2021, to celebrate 100 years of fame, N°5 will incorporate recycled glass.
Teams from Chanel and Pochet du Courval have pooled their know-how to rethink glassmaking as part of a joint approach to sustainable development.
"Our aim was to develop a top-of-the-range recycled glass that would meet Chanel's high standards of excellence and creativity.explains Maison Pochet.
The stated objectives are to encourage the circular economy, reduce the use of natural resources and cut carbon footprint, while preserving the aesthetics of the legendary fragrance, with its purity, crystal-like brilliance and transparency.
Different types of glass are used for different purposes. Recycling can alter the quality of transparent, shiny perfumery glass. Pochet du Courval has therefore developed an innovative industrial process with its partners to guarantee high-quality recycled glass. "In keeping with Chanel's high standards, every detail has been carefully considered: the tint, transparency, purity and brilliance of this glass, as well as its resistance, have been rigorously assessed", says Chanel.
N°5 Eau de Parfum limited edition 100 ml is the first fragrance to benefit from this innovation, which will be gradually rolled out to other Chanel fragrances from 2022.
"On average, for every 1 million bottles produced with Seva 3* new-generation recycled glass, we save more than 25 tonnes of virgin raw materials.emphasizes Maison Pochet.
*Seva 3: for "Eco-responsible solution, vision of the future", a solution developed by the Pochet group. in 2021, following an initial initiative called Seva.
The Verpack Group meets brands' expectations for single-material boxes and cases. This is illustrated by a new generation of attractive, practical, modular and customizable cardboard wedges, soon to be presented at Luxe Pack.
The debate has been going on for some years now, spurred on by regulatory measures and other anti-plastic lobbies. At the time, the Verpack group was renowned for its recycled plastic thermoformed trays. It then developed its first trays in various types of cardboard, of varying thickness and strength, dedicated to perfumes, skincare, premium accessories, and then wines and spirits.
Aided by its LCA tool, EcoLab, the group quickly helped brands to find alternative solutions for single-material boxes and cases. Added to this was the disappearance of magnets and other accessory parts.
The Verpack group is taking advantage of the Luxe Pack trade show, to be held in Monaco from September 27 to 29, to present its new wedge model. The concept is based on the principle of modules that can be adjusted to the shape of products, and which fit inside the box or case to guarantee strength and support. A decorative cap then snaps on to act as a wedge cover. This customizable concept (size, volume, choice of cardboard, decoration, etc.) offers a number of advantages, including reduced design costs, lighter weight (up to 50 % of box weight with corrugated cardboard wedging), automation of certain tasks, and easier handling for operator comfort. It meets the major requirements of e-commerce and the use of boxes as point-of-sale displays.
Amalthea is the first in-store refillable cosmetics company. For almost three years now, the company has been committed to healthy, sustainable consumption for people and nature. All bottles are glass and refillable, and all ingredients are healthy.
All products are packaged and refilled at the boutique, where they comply with Good Manufacturing Practice for cosmetics (ISO 22716), the same standard as a laboratory.
To encourage refills, Amalthea offers free shipping within France. Parisians can go directly to the boutique, which also houses the packaging and refill laboratory. It takes about 15 minutes to refill a bottle.
As Amalthea points out, the manufacture of one tonne of glass requires around 105 kilos of oil. Heavy glass also requires more fuel for transport. Ultimately, a one-liter glass bottle generates 345 grams of C02 during its life cycle. Recycling also consumes energy. According to Amalthea, avoiding this is the key. With its refill system, Amalthea offers an alternative.
Plastic is also banned from Amalthea packaging. The only exceptions are the cap and pumps, which are made of PET. The customer keeps the same cap when refilling.
Laurent Bourgoin has joined Superga Beauty as VP Business Development, reporting to Leslie Bréau Meniger, President of the organization, with the mission of accelerating the group's development in new businesses, new geographical areas or high value-added professions that will make sense of a 360° offer.
With over 25 years' experience in international business development with leading primary packaging companies: perfumery glass with Verescence, pump and dispenser systems with Silgan, and most recently as General Manager of Albéa Beauty Solutions, Laurent Bourgoin brings to Superga Beauty the skills to continue developing and securing its ambitious growth plan.
In a dynamic market context, and capitalizing on the investments made in recent months, Laurent Bourgoin will bring all his experience and leadership to bear on the development of the Superga Beauty group.
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