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Clinique and The Estee Lauder Companies/ELC address sustainable packaging with Roctool

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The editorial staff
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Clinique becomes the first premium beauty brand to exploit Roctool's innovative and sustainable technology for one of its iconic bottles.

The Estee Lauder Companies/ELC initiates a partnership with Roctool, leader in molding technology with heating and cooling. Its aim is to help develop state-of-the-art processes for all the brands in its portfolio, as part of its ongoing drive towards sustainable prestige packaging.

A group pioneer in the development of healthy, effective products for over fifty years, Clinique will be the first premium beauty brand to use Roctool technology for cosmetic bottles. It has chosen Clarifying Lotion 200ml, one of its first iconic products launched in 1968. 

Packaging design and technological innovation are essential to the development of a sustainable premium packaging offering. Roctool's heating and cooling molding technology can be applied to a variety of production methods. According to the manufacturer, it offers significant improvements in surface effects without the need for additional decoration processes. In the case of Clinique's Clarifying lotion bottles, this technology eliminates the need for secondary decoration. This process tends towards a simpler, more responsible approach to packaging. It avoids rejects and reduces waste by 10 to 15 % in the manufacturing phase, while guaranteeing superior material quality.

"At The Estee Lauder Companies, we invest and innovate at every stage of our packaging processes to multiply sustainable solutions and enable our brands to offer luxurious, quality experiences to our consumers, explains Daniel Ramos, Senior Vice President, Global Packaging, The Estee Lauder Companies/ELC. We are working with industrial partners like Roctool to improve our packaging design. From now on, we will mobilize our portfolio of brands to exploit these cutting-edge processes on a large scale in order to contribute to the development of more virtuous packaging solutions for our consumers and the planet."

"When we launched into the beauty market a few years ago, we understood the challenges of more responsible packaging solutions in connection with molding technology. Today, we're proud to be working with The Estee Lauder Companies and Clinique, and to support their ambitions in terms of responsible innovation."adds Mathieu Boulanger, CEO of Roctool.

The Estee Lauder Companies/ELC has worked with cosmetics packaging manufacturer Pinard Beauty Pack to bring Roctool technology to market for the first time in Europe. "We are proud to be working with The Estee Lauder Companies and Roctool to harness our technical and quality know-how together for this fantastic development, which fits perfectly with our ambitions in terms of sustainable development and our CSR policy."explain Thomas and Pierre Olivier Pinard, Pinard's co-CEOs.

Following the launch of this new bottle across Europe, The Estee Lauder Companies/ELC intends to deploy Roctool technology across its entire brand portfolio to continue promoting and developing innovative packaging solutions.

Silanol technology by Exsymol

By
The editorial staff
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Exsymol has placed 2021 under the sign of silicon. A year to share its expertise on this element playing a key role in cosmetics. Indeed, Exsymol has been working on silicon and its role in the human body, and more particularly the skin, for 50 years: 50 years of studies and expertise already shared in a video available on the Exsymol TV channel, in the "mot de l'Xpert" category. In this video, communications manager Mélanie Mollet and scientific expert Lionel Valenti tell us all about this key skin element. They remind us of silicon's all-too-frequently overlooked role.

 

However, silicon's main constraint in topical application is to enable the active molecule to penetrate the skin and reach its target. Using silicon extracted directly from nature delivers little cosmetic benefit. Silicon absorption by the skin is not sufficient to compensate for natural loss. With the principles of a cosmetic application defined, the need arose to find a cosmetic technology: this was the starting point for Exsymol's challenge to create a biofunXional silicon! 

BiofunXional silicon is the heart of Exsymol technology and the cornerstone of this cosmetic innovation. 

This biofunXional silicon can be used and diversified to meet all cosmetic needs. It is combined with cosmetic molecules of interest, enabling Exsymol to meet cosmetic needs. 

Exsymol's Xperts have selected well-known cosmetic molecules (hyaluronic acid, rhamnose, hydroxyproline...) and improved their bioavailability and efficacy with their Silanol technology. This innovative technology is revealed in detail in a brand-new video describing the benefits of silanols for the skin.

Towards a circular economy for rigid cosmetic packaging

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Albéa
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In October 2018, Albéa joined the Ellen Mac Arthur Foundation's New Plastics Economy Global Commitment alongside L'Oréal, Unilever and other companies, pledging to make 100 % of its packaging recyclable, reusable and use 10 % of recycled plastic by 2025 - whether flexible tubes or rigid plastic cosmetics packaging. Three years on, while the acceleration is clear for tubes, the transformation process is more complex for rigid plastic packaging. This means above all selecting materials and optimizing decoration, integrating mechanical and chemical PCR (Post-consumer Recycled) and bioplastics, and reducing the overall use of plastics - major challenges that require far-reaching transformations.

Rigid plastic beauty packaging covers a wide range of products and technologies: lipstick cases and mechanisms, mascara bottles and brushes, skin care jars and bottles, perfume caps, powder compacts, compacts and many more. Some models are custom-made, others are standard designs. Since most of them are small and mix several materials, they are rarely recyclable, let alone recycled.

However, suppliers such as Albéa as well as leading cosmetics brands have committed to making all their packaging recyclable or reusable by 2025 - not just their standard tubes or bottles, where innovation is spectacular, but also their more complex make-up and skincare packaging, where transformation is less rapid.

The transformation of rigid packaging for cosmetics products therefore requires the mobilization of rare technical expertise, in the service of a very clear roadmap. This involves exploring new materials, notably PCR post-consumer recycled resins and bioplastics, adapting injection and decoration processes, and reducing overall material use. It's also about launching new responsible generic solutions and collaborating with customers on revolutionary customized products via our offer of technically recyclable solutions. Innovation in materials is essential here.

Our priorities are to find alternatives to resins that are not recycled or for which regulations are changing (such as the widely-used styrenics), focusing on the trio of PP, PE and PET, to aim for single-material packaging, even when it is multi-component, and to accelerate the use of post-consumer recycled (PCR) or bio-sourced resins.

Our 14 industrial sites for rigid cosmetic packaging are now organized into a global network of injection experts, sharing best practices, ideas, successes and failures, as well as new sources of supply.

Simandre- Packaging - Product Info
Simandre, Albéa's ISCC-certified site

They are making progress in the field of chemical PCR, notably using coPET (Copolyester) for an aesthetic finish similar to virgin plastic, as well as in mechanical PCR with r-PET (recycled PET) for the manufacture of high-quality packaging. Today, 4 of our sites are ISCC (International Sustainability & Carbon certification, or mass balance) certified - 3 sites in China, and Simandre in France, our center of excellence for high-end care packaging. 

Bertrand de la Tour, VP Marketing & Innovation Albéa CRP (Cosmetic Rigid Packaging), explains: " As brands accelerate the transformation of their standard tubes and bottles, let's kick-start the transformation of their more complex and strategic fragrance, skincare and make-up packaging. We position ourselves as expert and active advisors to all customers aiming to transition their current packaging portfolio, whether through material change or plastic reduction, bespoke product developments or via our offer of technically recyclable or recycled material solutions designed by our marketing teams.. "

Although there's still a long way to go, the transformation process is well underway, and Albéa's teams are working tirelessly alongside beauty brands to find responsible solutions. 

"Visit us at LuxePack Monaco, hall Diaghilev, Stand DE07 "

Read more : www.albea-group.com

Durable anti-bacterial wooden stoppers

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The editorial staff
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After several months of testing and certification, Pujolasos introduces an antibacterial finish to its range of wooden packaging products.

The Spanish company offers long-lasting wooden closures that are bacteria-free over their entire contact surface. These products are primarily intended for the cosmetics and perfumery market, where they guarantee that the entire surface of the closure is free of antibacterial activity throughout its entire life cycle.

Since 1967, Pujolasos has specialized in the industrial manufacture of small-format wooden closures for various markets, such as perfumery and cosmetics closures, markets in which Pujolasos has a strong presence. Development, manufacturing, decoration, lacquering and assembly are the main components of the company's know-how, with two plants covering more than 18,500 m2.

Today, Pujolasos is an internationally recognized supplier of organic packaging in the premium segment, and works for several major brands in the sector.

Liquid lipsticks: a naturalness rate higher than 90 %

By
The editorial staff
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Global Bioenergies has announced that its Last range, until now focused on eye make-up, has been extended to lip make-up. Some 14 shades of liquid lipstick are now available. 

Just like the 18 liquid mascara, eyebrow mascara and eyeshadow references available since last June, the 14 liquid lipstick references combine high performance with high naturalness. This combination is made possible by the innovative ingredient produced by Global Bioenergies, isododecane of natural origin.

"The synthetic isododecane used by formulators has long been recognized for its long-lasting, low-transfer and water-resistant performance, and for its ability to offer the best application time and drying properties. The formula for LAST liquid lipsticks is based on naturally-derived isododecane from Global Bioenergies, making the range the first to achieve a naturalness level of over 90 %, while maintaining market-leading performance standards, as confirmed by blind consumer tests. It's the brand's signature!"says Muriel Morelli, in charge of product development.

"Opting for products of natural origin is today a militant act in favor of the environment. Our process is finding its first fields of application in make-up, and in the future will make a growing contribution to the environmental transition, by impacting whole sectors of the materials and fuels industry".says Marc Delcourt, co-founder and CEO of Global Bioenergies.

An ingredient that gives skin a new lease on life through cellular reprogramming

By
The editorial staff
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Givaudan Active Beauty unveils Sericoside, an active ingredient with anti-aging power that gives skin a second youth by resetting its cellular memory. Obtained by green fractionation from the roots of Terminalia sericea, Sericoside is a botanical active ingredient capable of restoring skin to its best.

When it comes to anti-aging, consumers want to see a reduction in lines, wrinkles and sagging skin: 75 % of women consider these signs of aging to be most responsible for their appearance (consumer study - Givaudan).1. To address this concern, Givaudan Active Beauty introduces a natural ingredient capable, according to Givaudan, of rejuvenating and regenerating the skin, two claims favored by 66 % of consumers when asked about the expected anti-aging benefits of a skincare product.

Giada Maramaldi, personal care category manager, said: "Sericoside is a pure molecule obtained from the roots of Terminalia sericea, a tree that grows in the miombo forest of Central and Southern Africa. Through cellular reprogramming, Sericoside acts on multiple aspects of skin regeneration, activating numerous endogenous resources such as antioxidant defenses to reduce under-eye puffiness and dark circles while firming the skin. As an anti-aging ingredient, Sericoside acts on skin texture and density, reducing wrinkles, fatigue and roughness."

Clinically tested on volunteers, Sericoside shows significant results when formulated at low dosage (0.5%). Several parameters, all indicators of ageing, were evaluated during the study: skin elasticity and firmness were assessed using a cutometer on the right cheek at baseline, at D15 and at D30. After just one month of application, skin tone improved by 19.8 % and signs of fatigue decreased by 16.5 %. A positive effect was also visible on dark circles, with 45 % of the panel showing a perceptible improvement, as well as a reduction in the volume of bags under the eyes.

These results inspired the Givaudan Active Beauty team to develop Dream Contour, an eye contour cream enriched with Seroside to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and dark circles and restore a youthful appearance. This 2-in-1 cream is also formulated with Escin, a powerful natural ingredient derived from horse chestnut, and Eliorelys, made from cherry blossom, to improve signs of aging while instantly reducing under-eye puffiness thanks to its smoothing, blurring effect.

1 CMI Global Study Results - March 2019

A natural balm for damaged skin

By
The editorial staff
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Freshly Cosmetics' new Vegan Hero All-Purpose Balm, 100 % natural, is a vegan alternative to beeswax and honey-based products for all everyday problems, big and small: stings, burns, irritations, inflammation, dryness and scars.

It is composed of nine active plant ingredients:

  • Ucuuba butter: to combat extreme drought,
  • Salicorne: instant, long-lasting hydration,
  • Passion fruit oil: repairing and regenerating,
  • Madecassoside: combats skin erythema, desquamation and roughness,
  • Sichuan pepper: soothes itchy bites and burns
  • Alfa-bisabolol: derived from chamomile, soothes irritation,
  • Croton Lechleri: improves and accelerates healing,
  • Calendula: anti-inflammatory, healing, soothing and protective,
  • Rice wax: moisturizing and emollient.

According to Freshly Cosmetics, this balm combats extreme dryness by boosting hydration by 67 % to leave skin soft and soothed; and reduces skin erythema by 26 %, flaking by 44 % and itching by 53 %.

A total of nine uses have been listed for this natural balm:

  • Fights irritation,
  • Improves and accelerates healing,
  • Soothes rashes, even on sensitive, atomic, dermatitis and psoriasis-prone skin,
  • Repairs damaged lips,
  • Soothes itching due to stings,
  • Nourishes and repairs dry, damaged elbows and heels,
  • Soothes burns,
  • Soothes and moisturizes skin after shaving or waxing,
  • Moisturizes and promotes healing of tattooed skin.

Febea publishes a guide to best practices for preserving biodiversity

By
Kristel Milet
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For several years now, the cosmetics sector has been undergoing a profound transformation: setting up sustainable supply chains, measuring their footprint on biodiversity, reducing their environmental impact... to help the whole sector go faster and further, Febea has published a guide to best practices in the sector. It will enable all cosmetics companies, whatever their size, to draw inspiration from these experiences and deploy them on their own scale.

The Last June, Febea adopted a new raison d'être: "Taking care of you, respecting the beauty of the world". As soon as it was adopted, this raison d'être was designed to be translated into a series of concrete actions, particularly in terms of ecological transition.
Many companies in the sector have already embarked on this path, promoting biodiversity. Listing and publishing their best practices provides everyone with concrete, transferable examples capable of inspiring new actions and thus accelerating the ecological transition of the entire sector.

The "Biodiversity" guide available online from the Febea is above all practical and concrete. Divided into 7 chapters, it covers every aspect of how to help preserve biodiversity. From the creation of sustainable supply chains to the eco-design of raw materials and formulas, from logistics choices to the reuse of unsold products, each stage is the subject of a precise analysis, and above all gives pride of place to the concrete initiatives taken by companies.

Inspiring examples to inspire action

For example, Pierre Fabre has embarked on a process of valorizing co-products: to manufacture Klorane's active ingredient, it uses organic olive pomace, an effluent from olive oil production. To do this, it turned to a Greek farmer, for whom it financed the replanting of 10,000 olive trees after the 2007 fires in the Peloponnese. Another example is milk thistle oil, used in the Avène range. This is a co-product of sylimarin extraction, used in the pharmaceutical industry. The residual oil is currently being evaluated as a new cosmetic active ingredient.

Another example of strong commitment is the Yves Rocher Foundation's Plant For Life program. It mobilizes thousands of volunteer tree planters to revive the soil and retreat the deserts. Thanks to them and the expertise of 48 NGOs, the program is present in 35 countries, and the target of 100 million trees planted was reached by the end of 2020. In France, the Foundation has planted over 4 million trees, and will reach 5 million by 2021.

A comprehensive, practical guide for companies of all sizes

In all, this guide brings together 176 best practices from companies of all sizes and in all sectors.
It also features a series of focuses on environmental regulations and their evolution, and reviews existing certifications and standards. It also presents numerous examples of existing initiatives in which each company can choose to participate, not forgetting a "toolbox" and a diary of major upcoming events on the theme of biodiversity.

" With this guide, we want to show how, in concrete terms, each player in our industry can, at his or her own level, improve the quality of our products and services. contribute to "respecting the beauty of the worldsays Emmanuel Guichard, general delegate of the Febea. We now want to go further, faster, by relying on the strength of our collective. Together, we intend to play a major role in building a sustainable future that takes care of biodiversity. This initiative represents a first step in that direction, and it's up to us to continue amplifying the movement".

Reduce sebum on the scalp

By
The editorial staff
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Global specialty chemicals company Croda has unveiled the latest innovation in its hair care ingredient portfolio, Nutrinvent Balance, an innovative encapsulated product offering, according to Croda, instant sebum-reducing benefits on the scalp.

Consumers are looking for solutions to help them modify their hair care routines with more practical, long-lasting products. This is particularly true for people whose hair greases up quickly and who, in response to this problem, have adopted intensive hair-washing routines. With increasing consumer demand for time-saving solutions, growing awareness of the impact scalp imbalances can have on hair, and the need to maintain a healthy scalp, it's important to find viable solutions to combat oily scalps without compromising their balance or hair aesthetics.

Nutrinvent Balance uses a new encapsulation technology to ensure targeted vectorization and controlled release of active ingredients to the scalp and hair. Suitable for incorporation into a wide variety of hair formulations, Nutrinvent Balance offers, according to Croda, instant sebum reduction on the scalp from the very first application. An ideal ingredient for consumers prone to an oily scalp, its performance increases with each use. This gives consumers the opportunity to modify their usual hair-washing routines, with noticeable improvements in the amount of sebum on the scalp and in the aesthetics of the hair, which is cleaner and stays cleaner for longer.

Aude Lemoine-Dessaint, Marketing Manager of Croda's Beauty Effect business unit, said: "Every day at Croda, we strive to achieve our goal of providing "smart science to improve lives". Nutrinvent Balance is no exception, helping to achieve our goal by providing the effects and convenience consumers are looking for, while offering sustainable benefits - including vegan appeal, naturalness (98 % naturally derived according to ISO 16128) and the ability to reduce water consumption during use."

ADF&PCD and PLD Paris reopen their doors to packaging innovators on January 19 & 20, 2022

By
Kristel Milet
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Registration is now open for the Paris meeting place for innovation in packaging for beauty and luxury products, beverages and aerosols. 

After a year 2021 without an edition due to Covid, ADF&PCD and PLD is back. The benchmark event for packaging for beauty products, premium beverages, aerosols and dispensing systems, is looking forward to welcoming all French and international professionals on January 19 and 20, 2022.

This Parisian event at the start of the year will enable all players in the brand and supplier community to meet up and exchange ideas in person, in order to (re)build and cultivate their business relationships.

In strict compliance with sanitary measures, the ADF&PCD and PLD event will, as every year, bring together players from an entire profession.

"The ambition of ADF&PCD and PLD Paris, organized by Easyfairs, an international event organizer, is to support all players in the packaging sector and help them respond to new challenges and changes," says Josh Brooks, Director of ADF&PCD and PLD Paris.

"The challenges facing packaging engineers, designers and buyers are numerous and constantly and rapidly evolving. Whether it's eco-design, clean beauty, digitalization, the post-Covid world... ADF&PCD and PLD Paris' mission is to help principals find the partners, products and new approaches to meet all these challenges."

ADF&PCD and PLD will be presenting trade visitors with a comprehensive overview of the latest trends, innovations and global offerings in the packaging sector.

The 2022 edition will feature :

  • A program of conferences and roundtables featuring the industry's leading experts; 
  • networking solutions to facilitate exchanges and collaborations between brands and suppliers;
  • hundreds of new products and innovations from over 550 suppliers of packaging solutions;
  • the eagerly-awaited ADF&PCD and PLD Innovation Awards ceremony, which recognizes and rewards the year's most outstanding packaging on the international market;
  • New this year, the products in competition will be showcased in a dedicated gallery at the heart of the show; 
  • the gallery of the prestigious Pentawards, the leading international packaging design competition.

The full range of products and services on offer in the three sectors will enable companies and industry professionals to increase their contacts, discover the latest innovations and market innovations, and develop new business opportunities.

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