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Cosmetics: the "Safe Beauty" trend is driving the market recovery

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman using a cell phone while shopping in a store.

"Innovation and digitalization are the success factors for sustainability, efficiency and safety," says Emidio Zorzella, CEO of Antares Vision Group.

Consumers are increasingly interested and informed about quality, origin of ingredients and sustainability of production processes. At the same time, they are increasingly attracted to the brand story and values associated with the product they are buying.

In France, the post-pandemic cosmetics sector had a contrasting year in 2020: a contraction in sales of 20 %, a historic decline on exports of 11.8 %, the 1st since 2009, and an increase of 20.7% in exports to China, instead of 48 % in 2019 (source DGDDI and FEBEA 2021), companies in the sector are relying on innovative trends to resume their rise.

Quality, transparency and sustainability are the requirements of Safe Beauty

Safe Beauty is one of the main trends in the industry, which sees health and beauty closely linked in the purchase of "transparent" products, with greater attention paid to brands and sustainability from end to end of the supply chain, both in terms of the raw materials used and the production processes and packaging characteristics. According to the ESV Digital study, Slow Cosmetics is also on the rise! With time spent at home on the rise and the wearing of masks, habits have been turned upside down. The French are looking for ecological, healthy, intelligent and reasonable cosmetics!

The pandemic has also seen an increase in online sales worldwide, and the trend continues to grow. In France, e-commerce increased by 42 % compared to the previous year, cosmetics represent 10% of e-commerce in 2020 compared to 7 % in 2019 (source ESV Digital March 2021). This scenario increases the risks for the beauty and cosmetics sector in terms of counterfeiting and proliferation of parallel markets, with repercussions for brand reputation and consumer trust.

"To meet this new evolution of needs, Antares Vision Group - a company listed since April 2019 on the Italian stock exchange on the AIM market dedicated to dynamic and competitive SMEs - offers specific solutions for the beauty industry to guarantee quality, security, integrity and complete traceability of the supply chain," emphasizes Nicolas Perrin, Director of the subsidiary Antares Vision France. Our traceability solutions are tailored to the requirements of Safe Beauty."

An international specialist in the pharmaceutical sector for Track & Trace hardware and software solutions (anti-counterfeiting and supply chain transparency), the Antares Vision group is one of the leading players in inspection systems (quality control) and intelligent data management (production efficiency and digitization of the end-to-end supply chain: from raw materials to the end consumer).

From pharmaceuticals to cosmetics

By exploiting the know-how acquired during more than twenty years of experience in the pharmaceutical industry, the Antares Vision Group is a reference partner for a particularly demanding cosmetics industry sector, both for consumers, who are increasingly better informed and demand guaranteed and transparent products, and for manufacturers and brands, whose challenges concern the efficiency and optimization, but also the sustainability of production processes.

This is thanks to innovative solutions for automatic visual inspection (which guarantee the total quality, safety and integrity of cosmetic products, thanks to precise control of ingredients, production processes and packaging), end-to-end traceability (which allows the complete life cycle of a product to be tracked, achieving a true revolution in the supply chain thanks to the creation of a digital identity for each unit) and intelligent data management (to maximize production efficiency and consumer experience, also thanks to artificial intelligence).

"Innovation and research are the two key factors in the development of the cosmetics industry in recent years. The constant improvement in the quality and transparency of the products we use daily for personal care is the result of studies and the implementation of new technologies for process optimization and supply chain management. In order to continue to compete in the major international markets, the digitization process is the real trump card: collecting data, transforming it into information and processing it so that it can provide value. The result is a higher standard of sustainability, resource optimization and consumer safety."says Emidio Zorzella, CEO of Antares Vision Group.

Through technology, supply chain transparency and full control of the product life cycle can be guaranteed, for a higher standard of safety and efficiency for brands, the contract manufacturing industry and end consumers. The concept of Trustparency, invented by Antares Vision, enables the establishment of trust through product transparency, supply chain transparency and information sharing. Guaranteeing the origin and quality of ingredients and raw materials, the history of a product at each stage of production, supply chain information, as well as protecting authenticity become an important part of a brand's reputation and its relationship with the end consumer. Antares Vision now offers a single, integrated and scalable solution to ensure quality, transparency and sustainability.

Economic crisis: is there a cosmetic exception?

site-industries-cosmetiques Keywords: make-up brushes, white surface.

The 3rd Cosmed-SVP report on economic and strategic intelligence for companies in the cosmetics industry has been published.

In 2020, at national level, business failures in France fell by 38.1 1TP6Q, reaching their lowest level in 30 years. Several factors explain these figures. First of all, the aid measures put in place to support entrepreneurs. Secondly, creditor summonses, which traditionally account for 30 % of liquidations, have disappeared. Frozen until the summer due to regulatory changes, assignments did not resume at the end of the year, as public and private creditors were encouraged to seek out-of-court settlements. However, it is feared that the rise will resume in 2021, for three reasons: as a result of a catch-up, when aid ceases (hence the need to plan for a gradual phasing-out of aid) and when creditors start assigning again.

However, the cosmetics industry is proving all the alarmist forecasts wrong. Government measures (PGE, short-time working, etc.) have greatly reduced the difficulties, and the claims rate is very low. The morale of managers in the cosmetics industry's VSEs, SMEs and SMBs is very good (77 to 82 1Q6T), up three points on the previous quarter. This is in stark contrast to other industrial sectors, where the majority of SME managers (53 %) are still worried about their company's long-term viability.

The cosmetics industry is once again proving its resilience. It is mobilizing the resources of the stimulus plan primarily for investment, particularly in the ecological transition.

The new Cosmed-SVP quarterly report summarizes key information on the life of companies in the cosmetics sector: trends, market figures, player news and market outlook.

This report is supplemented by key indicators for the cosmetics industry's VSE-SME-ETI. This summary presents the quarterly evolution of key figures relating to the life of companies in the cosmetics industry: investment, innovation, employment, economic outlook, management morale. The aim is to help professionals measure, over time, the economic impact of the general context.

Prad interprets the codes of Maison Lalique

site-industries-cosmetiques Prad interprets the codes of the Maison Lalique with a golden perfume bottle on a white background.

Maison Lalique entrusted Prad with the made-in-France decoration of two of the perfume bottles in its Noir Premier Collection (Or Intemporel & Illusion Captive), Amethyst Exquise, and the candle jars in the Voyage de Parfumeur range (La Nuit Nairobi-Kenya and Noir Premier-Plume Blanche).

These creations illustrate not only Prad's mastery of each of the glass decoration technologies, but also its ability to combine them to sublimate containers and produce the material and light effects so emblematic of the Lalique brand.

"Glass is a wonderful materialRené Lalique, 1925

The three perfume bottles are distinguished by their metallic shine, achieved through liquid metallization, Prad's flagship technology that provides a total or partial metallic appearance, numerous metallic nuances and infinite transparency and gradation possibilities. The process is carried out on a special dust-free line, using a perfectly controlled and environmentally-friendly process. Laser engraving adds relief and light effects. They are enhanced by hot stamping on the Amethyst Exquise and Illusion Captive bottles, and silk-screening on the Or Intemporel bottle.

Complexity is revealed in the regularity of the metallization, despite the flat or incised surfaces, and the precision of the laser cutting, which preserves the metallic violet, black and gold colors, notably for the iIllusion Captive bottle laser-engraved over its entire surface. In addition, screen-printed and/or hot-marked motifs are accurately registered.

For the candles, the jar of Noir Premier - Plume Blanche was metallized in bright gold before being screen-printed; the jar of La Nuit Nairobi-Kenya was metallized before being hot-stamped. The challenge was to perfectly protect the drinking cup and obtain a flawless silk-screen print on a truncated cone-shaped support, thanks to a digital registration process.

A cosmetic active created from rose stems

site-industries-cosmetiques Two roses blooming in the sun are to create a cosmetic active ingredient.

We know the rose used in perfumery, less the rose stem in cosmetics. As the Rose Festival is starting in Grasse, the start-up Nissactive announces that it has designed a cosmetic active ingredient entirely made from rose stems. A first with scientifically proven anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant and anti-aging benefits, for which a patent has just been filed. The result of a close collaboration with the Université Côte d'Azur (UCA), the company is making the most of a product that is usually destroyed. 

Scientifically proven benefits 

Not content with recruiting teams from the University's Foqual Master's program (Formulation, Analysis, Quality) and the Nice Institute of Chemistry (UMR CNRS), the start-up - headed by Xavier Fernandez, UCA's Vice President for Innovation and Research Development - makes a point of objectifying its results and publishing them in scientific journals. 

A new field for the circular economy 

Until now, rose stems were burned, thus generating CO2 in the atmosphere, or composted in the best case. They are now sources of value and will be used in anti-aging products, repairing fragile skin, lightening spots and protecting the skin from pollution. This is the principle of "upcycling". By finding value in discarded plants, Nissactive opens a new field for local producers.

Côte d'Azur start-up created in October 2017, Nissactive develops innovative all-natural cosmetic ingredients designed from raw materials of Mediterranean origin. Another way of conceiving cosmetics that contributes to the safeguarding of local biodiversity. True to its values, the entire design process minimizes its environmental impact. The result of the merger between UCA and the Verger-Dubois group, the multi-awarded start-up already has two other active ingredients: a powerful skin repairer, developed from the leaves of the Brignoles plum tree, and an anti-aging, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient from the truffle oak of Provence. A know-how exported all over the world.

Scentys: two new high-tech projects presented at VivaTech

site-industries-cosmetiques The hand of a person reaching for a white ball at VivaTech.

After a one-year break, the VivaTech trade show returns from June 16 to 19, 2021 at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles. Scentys, expert in airborne fragrance diffusion and inventor of the patented technology of fragrance in capsules will present its two latest innovations. 

Space perfuming, creation of olfactory experiences, design and manufacture of diffusers and perfumes in capsules... founded in 2004 and thus strong of more than 17 years of experience, this French company combines technological precision with a craft know-how. 

A connected perfume diffuser

With nine patents to its credit, Scentys intends to push back the limits and revolutionize the world of perfumery. The company has designed a connected and intelligent perfume diffuser for the home. This innovation, the result of three years of R&D, is a new gesture in the world of home fragrance.

At any time of the day, Scentys' innovation enables the creation of a unique and easy-to-diffuse fragrance atmosphere through remote control via an application or voice control. An immediately functional solution for brands, this new diffusion technology adapts to all olfactory territories and models itself on the consumer's image.

A contactless perfume diffuser

Scentys also offers a contactless fragrance dispenser. This technology reinvents the customer experience at the point of sale. Thanks to a motion detection system, customers will be able to trigger the contactless fragrance diffusion system with a simple hand gesture for 30 seconds. This is a high-tech solution that meets the security needs highlighted by the health crisis.

Exfolactive boosts natural peeling

site-industries-cosmetiques A diagram illustrating the cell structure reinforced by Exfolactive's natural peeling boost.

Produced from organic nopal flowers, Exfolactive reactivates endogenous desquamation processes, which are altered during aging, for a gentle and effective exfoliating action. The complexion is more radiant and unified, and the skin is hydrated.

Reactivate biological exfoliation

With age, the natural desquamation mechanism slows down, dead cells accumulate on the skin's surface. The complexion becomes dull, the microrelief irregular. In response to this observation, SILAB launched Exfolactive ® in 2005. In 2021, additional efficacy data confirm the ability of this natural active ingredient to :

- Boost the skin's natural exfoliation capacity, which is weakened by aging, by stimulating the activity of desquamation enzymes [1] ;

- promote cell renewal and eliminate scales for an optimal skin barrier function [2] .

Thanks to its effective biological exfoliating action on the face and body, Exfolactive ® allows the epidermis to recover a balance between proliferation and desquamation.

Even out the complexion

After 14 days of application, Exfolactive tested at 2.5% on a Caucasian panel significantly smoothes skin texture (Sa parameter: -7%). The complexion's radiance is improved (radiance: +10% and pink color: +20%) and age spots are reduced (-11%). Moreover, the skin is rehydrated (+24%).

Under the same conditions, Exfolactive decreases by 4.1% the a* parameter, characteristic of the color of the scars present on the cheeks on an Asian panel. The active ingredient also smoothes skin texture (roughness: -8.9%).

A comparative study conducted by SILAB shows that the benefits of this natural organic exfoliation are equivalent to those obtained with the reference molecules used in chemical scrubs (glycolic acid on Caucasian skin and salicylic acid on Asian skin), without their undesirable effects.

The nopal flower, an inspiring raw material

In order to propose a natural solution to reactivate the endogenous pathways of desquamation, SILAB has focused on the nopal (Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill.). Present in the most hostile deserts, this cactus has indeed developed a remarkable capacity to renew itself year after year.

To ensure the traceability of its nopal flowers supply, SILAB has established a partnership in Tunisia, the first country producing this resource. The partner, specialized in organic nopal (Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill.) cultivation, is committed to a responsible Ecocert Fair for Life certification process. Between May and June, farmers harvest and dry the nopal flowers. The dried flowers are then subjected to a controlled hydrolysis allowing the optimal extraction in water of the oligosaccharides of interest.

Exfolactive (Hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica Flower Extract) is a patented product, available in aqueous solution (recommended dose: 2 to 4%). This active ingredient has a content of natural origin greater than or equal to 99% (ISO 16128) and complies with international cosmetic regulations (Europe, USA, Japan, China, etc.).

[1] Tested at 1% on aged keratinocytes or aged reconstructed epidermis (SILABSKIN ® RE), Exfolactive ® increases cathepsin-D activity (+66%), restores kallikrein-5 secretion (+102%) and decreases the secretion of its inhibitor LEKTI (-85%)

[2] Tested in vivo at 2.5% on Caucasian skin, Exfolactive ® promotes the elimination of flaky skin on the face (+10%) after 5 days of treatment and stimulates the skin's exfoliation capacity on the calves (+16%) after 7 days of treatment

CDA celebrates its 30th anniversary

site-industries-cosmetiques A machine in a factory celebrating its 30th anniversary with a purple ball on top.

30 years ago, CDA was a two-person company, with a commitment to adhesive labelling and only one machine in the range. The company has grown with the projects it has been entrusted with and the technologies it has developed.

Between 1992 and 1996, CDA grew from three employees to five, from one labeler in its line to seven.

Four years later, as the world celebrated its entry into the 21st century, CDA developed its labeling techniques to adapt to new product shapes: conical, square, oval... to equip all sectors.

Despite the financial crisis, CDA, with 30 employees at the time, opened a new chapter in 2008 by working on the design of filling machines. Since then, the range of CDA filling machines has grown steadily and now includes seven models.

CDA celebrated its 21st anniversary in 2012 by realizing its American dream with the establishment of CDA USA in Richmond, Virginia.

With this success, CDA launched, three years later, the design of monoblocks: a 3-in-1 machine capable of dosing, capping and labeling small bottles. This innovation quickly found its target and allowed the company to boost its growth.

Growth has been sustained and supported since 2016 by CDU. This 4.0 factory now produces the majority of parts for filling and labeling machines thanks to the acquisition of turning, milling and sawing machines and a robot. 

In 2017: conquest of the German market with the creation of CDA Deutschland.

This year the company celebrates its 30th anniversary with more than 150 employees from France, America and Germany.

The Sulapac Nordic Collection of organic origin evolves to accommodate water-based formulas

site-industries-cosmetiques A bowl of white cream on a piece of organic wood.

Quadpack unveils its most circular packaging to date: a 50ml jar in Sulapac biocomposite material, offering optimized "barrier" technology.
The "Sulapac Nordic Collection by Quadpack" has been extended to include a 50 ml jar suitable for water-based formulas. The range, first launched in August 2020 by Quadpack, an international manufacturer and supplier of packaging for beauty products, includes 15 ml, 30 ml and 50 ml jars designed for anhydrous and oil-based products. The new reference features the new Sulapac "barrier". The result is a totally circular package for aqueous products. The material breaks down without leaving permanent microplastic residues. 

The new 50 ml cosmetic jar offers the ideal size for the most common skincare products, from anti-aging treatments to moisturizers, hair and lip care. The jar's "barrier" properties have been proven and have passed standard weight loss tests* at Quadpack's laboratory in Barcelona, Spain.

Part of Quadpack's QLine portfolio, the Sulapac Nordic Collection is a sustainable alternative to conventional plastic packaging. Made from biocomposites and wood particles, Sulapac is suitable for industrial composting. Designed for beauty brands with a genuine commitment to sustainable development, it is the driving force behind Quadpack's drive to offer packaging with a positive impact on the environment.

The Sulapac Nordic Collection is manufactured in Quadpack's factories in Germany. Available in nine colors, the jars can be decorated by screen or pad printing. The natural texture of the material can remain visible to underline the brand's sustainable approach.
The collection has also been enriched with a 200 ml jar suitable for anhydrous and oily body care formulas, enabling ecologically-minded brands to launch a more complete range.

Quadpack is Sulapac's preferred international partner for cosmetics packaging.

*Below an acceptable weight loss of 3 % with an aqueous emulsion of 73 % at 40°C for 12 weeks, equivalent to a shelf life of one year.

A PE capsule for the oral care market

site-industries-cosmetiques A tube of violet oral care cream.

Albéa has developed a new PE cap to produce single-material packaging ready for recycling, a first in the oral care market. 

This cap is the latest addition to Albéa's range of single-material tubes, taking another step towards its goal of producing 100 % of recyclable tube packaging by 2025. 

Made in Europe, Albéa's PE Full Diameter Cap is a satin-finish screw cap compatible with any 28mm diameter laminated plastic tube. 

This new PE cap replaces traditional PP caps - when combined with a PE skirt and head, the entire single-material package can be recycled through existing rigid HDPE recycling channels. 

The PE Full Diameter Cap enables consumers to dispose of their entire packaging directly in the garbage can. In this way, Albéa supports brands' objective of achieving total recyclability of their packaging, and thus contributes to their commitment to sustainable development. 

In October 2018, Albéa was the first cosmetics packaging supplier to sign the Ellen McArthur Foundation's New Plastics Global Commitment, committing the company to producing 100 % of recyclable, reusable or compostable packaging by 2025. Albéa's PE Full Diameter Cap completes its range of single-material tubes, and forms part of its responsible packaging roadmap. 

Texen and Nocibé, a new-generation mascara

site-industries-cosmetiques Victoria's Secret mascara in pink, a new-generation mascara from Texen and Nocibé.

Nocibé's Vice Versa is a double-effect hybrid mascara. Texen Beauty Partners is once again collaborating with Nocibé, orchestrating the expertise of industrial players at the cutting edge of innovation. The result is a turnkey product.

Vice Versa sets itself apart with a 2-in-1 hybrid brush: a fiber side for volume and a molded plastic side for lash definition. The formula mixes in to tint, lift and shine... The wringer fulfills its contract at 100 %, a package that strikes the perfect balance between aesthetics and practicality.

Texen activates its network of expertise

Acting as the project's prime contractor, Texen brought together the best partners to create "the perfect marriage" between brush, silicone wringer and formula. The challenge of this launch lies above all in the brush, which required specific operations and the development of appropriate tooling. The brush is made with a fiber part and an injected plastic part (TPC ET: thermoplastic polyester elastomer). The process has been patented.

The standard 9-ml bottle is made of PP with a pink anodized aluminum coating and a white screen-printed logo.

This achievement owes its success to the collaborative work initiated by Texen Beauty Partners between the various industrial players. The group's division has confirmed its mascara expertise and its pack and formula competence.

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