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Nande van Aken to head Geka's global operations

Geka - Nande-van-Aken

Medmix, the parent company of Geka, a specialist in high-precision beauty application solutions, has announced the appointment of Nande van Aken as Head of Global Operations for Geka.

With over 15 years' experience in driving operational excellence and organizational transformation, Nande van Aken will oversee Geka's global manufacturing operations. She will focus on building a sustainable strategy and strong operations, optimizing functionality, quality and profitability across the business, and strengthening Geka's ability to meet the needs of customers, end-users and industry.

With a proven track record in implementing change and improvement, promoting cultural change and solving complex problems, Nande van Aken is set to strengthen Geka's position as a global innovator in beauty application solutions.

On joining Geka, Nande van Aken said: "I am very pleased to be part of an organization with such a heritage of innovation and excellence. I look forward to working with the team to strengthen efficiency and drive sustainable growth in line with Geka's vision."

Léa Nature reinforces the deployment of the Green Impact Index on its brands

A pioneer in natural and organic cosmetics and committed to greater transparency, Laboratoire Léa Nature continues to roll out the Green Impact Index (GII) on the websites of its flagship brands: So'Bio étic, Eau Thermale Jonzac and Natessance. 

Based on 50 criteria, the Green Impact Index aims to raise awareness among consumers and companies of the need to continuously improve their environmental and societal impacts. 

This environmental and societal rating system aims to provide accurate, reliable information for informed choices.

Developed by 22 players in the cosmetics, well-being and family health sectors, it is based on a rigorous methodology, co-constructed under the aegis of Afnor Normalisation (AFNOR Spec 2215).

"Offering consumers the keys to informed, responsible choice is a priority, stresses Stéphane Labattut, General Manager of the Léa Nature Cosmétique division and Vice-President of the Green Impact Index consortium since its creation in September 2023. This deployment reflects our long-standing commitment to reducing the environmental and societal impact of our products, while reinforcing trust in our brands."

Fiabila reinvents the UV Professional Gel concept to prevent the risk of sensitization

Fiabila

Fiabila offers a very wide range of technologies and formulas for nail polish, special effects and daily or specific care, sometimes combined for a color and care approach thanks to its mastery of all processes.

An independent panel of 30 users were satisfied with the UV Gel Professional concept, which prevents the risk of sensitization. 

The French company, founded in 1977, has thus taken a key step forward by offering a high-performance professional UV Gel concept which, when integrated into a classic manicure routine - base, two UV Gel applications, top coat - reduces total exposure to sensitizing agents.

Its formula is composed mainly of oligomers and monomers selected from among the least sensitizing. Oligomers are an irreversible assembly of monomers. Due to their size, their penetration into the skin is limited, unlike that of the smaller monomers.

"This development is the fruit of a unique two-year approach by our R&D laboratory. We directly interviewed practitioners and consumers to assess their perceptions and observations regarding sensitization to UV Gel components. Clearly, they were confronted with it. We worked extensively on all formulation options, based on scientific, toxicological and regulatory studies, until we identified the key role of oligomers in reducing exposure to sensitizing materials. Naturally, we were committed to achieving professional results.

Wauters: a new "duo machine" for hot foil stamping and embossing

wauters_group

Since October 1, 2024, the Ile-de-France site of Wauters, a manufacturer of luxury packaging since 1909, has been equipped with a brand-new "duo machine" combining hot foil stamping and embossing, replacing the old installation. 

Thanks to this acquisition, the Wauters Group is strengthening its know-how, which will be rewarded in 2022 by the EPV label (entreprise du patrimoine vivant - living heritage company), which recognizes French companies with outstanding craftsmanship and industrial know-how.

A high-performance solution for exceptional finishes

"The Wauters Group has always invested in state-of-the-art equipment, including machines with dual expertise: verso/recto printing, embossing and foil stamping. This avoids a makeready step and guarantees better register quality.the company says.

The new duo machine offers enhanced performance for simultaneous hot stamping and embossing operations, guaranteeing optimum consistency and production quality.

The benefits of technological renewal

Ideal for finish overlays, it achieves unrivalled levels of detail and excellent register quality.

The new equipment also offers productivity gains: set-up and production times are reduced, with two "rolled" operations in a single pass.

Designed to minimize energy consumption, it's also more environmentally friendly.

Hot stamping and embossing: two EPV areas of expertise

For over a century, gilding has been Wauters' core expertise. Initially carried out on leather (book covers, desk blotters, etc.) in the first Wauters workshop in the Marais district of Paris, this expertise evolved into labels, and then more broadly into luxury packaging in the late 1960s, benefiting from the company's move to the graphic arts industrial zone in Villebon-sur-Yvette, Essonne (91).

Today, hot stamping is complemented by our expertise in cold stamping. Embossing is another finishing technique inseparable from luxury packaging. Wauters has developed this workshop in all its forms: multi-level, stamping, dry embossing...

G.pivaudran doubles production capacity with latest-generation anodizing machine

g.pivaudran ©AERIALstudio - Romain Daynac

The SME g.pivaudran has invested in a major new facility to boost productivity and make its processes more virtuous. Visit the new anodizing line, representing an investment of over 7.5 million euros.

g.pivaudran's huge new automated anodizing line, with its 80 tanks and 12 coloring baths, is impressive, enabling the parts entrusted to it to be processed in a continuous, end-to-end cycle, without raw and finished parts crossing paths.

Anodizing is a surface treatment designed to decorate an aluminum part by anodic oxidation. Through a succession of chemical and electrolytic baths, a uniform, resistant layer of aluminum oxide - colorless or colored - is deposited.

This new, modern line is designed to double the company's production capacity, replacing the aging anodizing lines currently used by the Lot-based SME. It incorporates the same processing stages as the conventional lines, but with enhanced functions for greater responsiveness and the ability to adapt to projects of any scale.

Water and energy savings are also planned. "On this new line, we have increased the number of rinsing functions in order to reduce our water consumption. Today on this line, almost all our treatment stages are followed by three rinses (whereas we were limited to two rinses on our old anodizing lines), with automatically controlled water additions carried out only when necessary. Lids on all heated tanks limit water evaporation. Our aim is to produce twice as much with the same water consumption".says Romain Rouges, surface treatment workshop manager at g.pivaudran.

A line that takes environmental considerations into account

What about energy consumption? Tank lids limit heat loss, with heat loss also reduced thanks to tank insulation. To bring the tanks up to the right temperature, boilers heat exchangers (which will be supplied in 2026 by Souillac's new wood-fired heating network). Some baths, which need to be heated to over 55°C, are fitted with immersion heaters. Level probes for these baths have been doubled.

A 70,000 m3/h suction process has also been installed, and an energy recovery system preheats the suctioned air. Suction sensors capture the vapors emitted by the baths in an optimized manner. 

With this new line, operators no longer handle 25 kg bags of chemicals (non CMR - "carcinogenic and/or mutagenic and/or toxic to reproduction"), as the tanks are mainly fed by automated topping-up.

"Our investment is in line with both the company's growth strategy and that of the industry's CSR transformation. Even more virtuous production meets the new demands of the beauty market, fueled by unavoidable environmental considerations. It is the most substantial investment ever made since the creation of g.pivaudran and, in this sense, it is in line with the eco-responsible development challenges facing our sector".emphasizes Marc Pivaudran.

Currently being qualified for all g.pivaudran references, the anodizing line - designed and supplied by Spanish company Sidasa Engineering - will run in 3×8 mode. Two to four hours of treatment will be required for an anodizing cycle, depending on the required appearance. Several parts with different "recipes" can be treated at the same time.

Photo: ©AERIALstudio - Romain Daynac

Yaël Zajac

Cosmogen relies on R&D to win over brands

COSMOGEN - Fresh Bottle

At the Luxe Pack trade show held in Monaco from September 30 to October 2, 2024, Cosmogen, a French company specializing in application solutions for cosmetics, unveiled its new products. Innovation was the main theme.

"Our 2024 sales will be at least 15 % higher than in 2023. This is a superb performance, both in terms of our growth and in relation to a market that is rather sluggish.stresses Priscille Allais, CEO of Cosmogen. These results are due to innovation. The main products driving our growth this year are patented products."

Based on five major themes - "cryotherapy", "surgery like", "makeup artist", "candy bar" and "holistic beauty" - the numerous launches unveiled at Luxe Pack Monaco bear witness to the company's dynamism. 

Looking for a cool effect

"The effect of cold on the skin is very popular with consumers, because the effect and the feeling are immediate, explains Maud Lelièvre, Marketing and Communications Manager. This applies not only to skincare products, but also to hybrid skincare and make-up formulas, where the cold effect provides the care and freshness we expect from these formulas. For example, we have developed Fresh Bottle: a small bottle containing a formula with a stainless steel applicator dipped directly into the formula". 

Fresh Boottle is a transparent PET bottle with a stainless steel "dip in" applicator designed for application and massage. The applicator is available in five shapes and textures (Swirl, Mirror, Ribbed, V-Shape, Honey) to target different areas of the face and neck. According to its designers, the immediate cooling effect decongests, tones and firms the skin.

Application precision

site-industries-cosmetiques Three clear glass dropper bottles proudly labeled "COSMOGEN" are arranged side by side, highlighting their innovative design. Each bottle features a metal cap in a distinctive color (silver, rose gold and gold), tempting brands with matching droppers that reflect COSMOGEN's commitment to elegance and quality research and development.

In the medical-inspired, "surgery like" category, Cosmogen has extended its Needle range with its Needle Dropper product. Benefiting from new shades in 2024, the Needle tube was already inspired by cosmetic surgery, with a very fine metal applicator, enabling ultra-precise, targeted application, such as filling in wrinkles or targeting imperfections. The concept has now been extended to include a dropper for precise dosing of the amount of formula applied. "Very easy to use, the Dropper is a market classic. This gave us the idea of merging our popular Needle Tube with this Dropper concept, explains Maud Lelièvre. Needle Dropper combines a PET bottle and pipette with an aluminum applicator for ultra-precise dosing with a luxury finish." Oils, serums, hair care, make-up and hybrid formulas can all be dosed with this applicator.

Make-up: a variety of innovative applicators

The "makeup artist" theme is illustrated by the new Cosmogloss range. This new generation of hybrid applicators, composed of ultra-soft TPE micro-pins for application on the lips or around the eyes, is suitable for light-textured make-up and skincare formulas. It's also ideal for touch-ups, and easier to maintain than a flocked applicator.

For make-up, Cosmogen also offers a professional set of five brushes designed to perfect the complexion: a foundation brush to even out the face, a concealer brush to conceal dark circles, a powder brush for loose/compact powder, a blush brush to tint cheeks and a highlighter brush to sculpt cheekbones. The handle is in aluminum with a matte finish. The PBT bristles are also available in 100 % rPET.

Cosmogen's offer also includes a ceramic Kabuki, a luxurious professional brush available in two shapes: a round shape for compact/free powders, and a beveled shape for blushes and bronzing powders. The ceramic handle provides a cool effect when handled, and a high-end appearance.

Cosmogen also offers a whole range of sponges, including a multi-purpose sponge designed to be used like a finger, with a slanted side to camouflage dark circles, a pointed side to reach targeted areas perfectly, and a domed side to create a light touch. The pebble-shaped r-Cosmoblender range contains 30 % of recycled PU foam (PIR) to reduce waste.

Tips that recall the shape and texture of candy

site-industries-cosmetiques A row of five colorful cosmetic tubes labeled "COSMODEN" with shiny silver caps, each lying on its side, showcases the spirit of cutting-edge R&D. Next to them are assorted round gel drops in red, yellow, green, pink and blue on an immaculate white surface.

The colorful, jello-like silicone tips of the new Jelly Silicon Brus range of hybrid brushes will appeal to those nostalgic for Dragibus candy, and seduce fans of bright colors! Featuring a lacquered wooden handle, these brushes are suitable for skin care, allowing the formula to glide easily over the skin. They can also be used with make-up to conceal imperfections. Special feature: the silicone tip doesn't absorb the formula, avoiding wastage. 

Holistic trend

In Cosmogen's bestselling Squeeze'n range, featuring an applicator tip with patented on/off rotary closure, Squeeze'n Roll is now available in synthetic blue quartz, a more economical solution with properties identical to the original blue quartz. The cold stone helps tighten blood vessels and eliminate fluid that accumulates and causes puffiness.

Cold stones help tighten blood vessels and eliminate fluid that accumulates and causes puffiness. As part of Cosmogen's Squeeze'n range, featuring an applicator tip with patented on/off rotary closure, Squeeze'n roll is now available with synthetic blue quartz. An alternative to the original blue quartz, this synthetic version is more economical. Squeeze'n roll is also available with an applicator in imitation jade (serpentine), obsidian and rose quartz.

Another announcement from the Paris-based SME: its Maxi Squeeze'n Detox range is now also available in TPE. In line with the skinification trend, the tube can be topped with a cap, easy to use thanks to its rotating on/off system, for scalp massage. Once the tube is empty, the applicator can be removed for sorting.

Yaël Zajac

Lancôme chooses HDS Inune for Absolue Les Parfums

Absolue Lancôme

For its first haute parfumerie collection dedicated to Centifolia Rose, grown at the heart of its Domaine de la Rose in Grasse, southern France, Lancôme has selected the HDS Inune refillable pump from Aptar Beauty, a global specialist in dispensing systems.

Lancôme's 11 Absolue fragrances are created using two new patented rose extracts, specially developed for the L'Oréal Group brand. The olfactory integrity of the juices is therefore crucial. With its robust design and cutting-edge technology, Aptar Beauty's Inune pump meets this imperative.

Designed without POM (polyoxymethylene), the Inune pump offers a mechanism with no metal contact with the juice. It uses Aptar's High Definition Spray (HDS) technology to ensure that every facet of every fragrance is revealed in all its complexity.

Refillable spray with fine diffusion

With Absolue Les Parfums, Lancôme switches to a refillable system. The HDS Inune pump features an SNI 15 screw neck for easy filling. The HDS Inune refillable pump delivers a light, fine spray with a wide-angle spray pattern. With each spray, it delivers a 70-microliter dose that settles generously on the skin, enriching the fragrance sensory experience.

"We're seeing an increase in niche fragrance collections among luxury brands, using the same packaging solution for a variety of scents. Each brand has its own requirements, and Lancôme's are particularly rigorous, both in terms of aesthetics and technology. Our partnership has resulted in a high-performance distribution solution that blends perfectly with the range's visual identity".says Yaël Letrosne, Senior Account Manager, Aptar Beauty, EMEA.

Featuring an invisible mechanism, the HDS Inune refillable pump is manufactured and decorated at the Aptar Beauty factory in Le Neubourg, France. It is anodized to a shiny gold finish to match the cap and metal plate on the bottle, for a luxurious look. 

Silab wins Wise Ingredients Award with Commusys 

SILAB - Making Cosmetics-Winner

On Wednesday, November 20, 2024, on the sidelines of the Making Cosmetics show in Milan, Silab's Commusys natural anti-aging active won the Wise Ingredients Award in the Active Ingredients

Composed of biopeptides from the yeast Pichia stipitis, grown in Silab's biotechnology plant, this active ingredient offers, according to the company, an innovative anti-aging solution with moisturizing, smoothing and radiance-boosting effects.

Its trump card: its ability to re-establish dermal-epidermal communication altered by aging.

In developing this active ingredient, Silab paid particular attention to trans-compartmental communication between dermis and epidermis during the aging process, an essential component in ensuring skin longevity. 

A modeling study in vitro according to Silab, has enabled us to map for the first time the mediators involved in dermal-epidermal communication, and to demonstrate their deregulation during aging.

The resulting lack of communication alters the biological functions of the epidermis. Silab emphasizes that, thanks to Commusys, the molecular players involved in communication from the dermis to the epidermis are regulated and epidermal functions reactivated.

"Commusys brings together several of our areas of expertise: our in-depth knowledge of skin biology, of course, but also our ability to select and valorize natural peptides, and our cutting-edge mastery of biotechnologies. We have our own biotechnology production unit, enabling us to cultivate yeasts, microalgae and bacteria on a large scale, whose fascinating properties open up access to unique molecules of interest. We are delighted to receive this award, which highlights these three Silab signatures and underlines the scientific innovation behind this asset".comments Brigitte Closs-Gonthier, Chairman of the Board and General Manager in charge of R&D, quality and communications at Silab.

LVMH Recherche and Integrated Biosciences announce research partnership

Woman 50

LVMH Recherche and Integrated Biosciences, a Californian biotech company, have announced a strategic research partnership aimed at discovering new chemical entities targeting aging at the molecular level. This multi-year partnership will leverage Integrated Biosciences' synthetic biology and artificial intelligence (AI) platform.

Thanks to the combination of its proprietary AI and optogenetics platforms, Integrated Biosciences says it is able to train state-of-the-art deep learning models to virtually screen hundreds of thousands of molecules, identifying the most promising first-in-class chemical compounds that potently modulate age-related biological phenotypes.

Founded by scientists from MIT, Harvard University and UC Santa Barbara, and having recently announced a fundraising round led by Sutter Hill Ventures, Integrated Biosciences says it is known for being at the forefront of AI-driven discovery of novel senolytic compounds - anti-aging chemical entities that selectively eliminate pathological "zombie" senescent cells.

"Our partnership with Integrated Biosciences perfectly embodies our vision: to push back the frontiers of scientific discovery, fueling transformative innovations in beauty, said Bruno Bavouzet, President of LVMH Recherche. This is a unique opportunity to evaluate thousands of potential bioactives simultaneously, revolutionizing the pace of our research for the benefit of all our brands, including our flagship es Christian Dior. By combining our expertise in skin research with their research on AI and aging, we are taking a decisive step forward in the understanding and molecular treatment of age-related cellular pathways."

"This collaboration with LVMH Recherche, a world leader in the research and development of luxury consumer products, represents a significant step forward in our shared commitment to fighting ageing through cutting-edge science, said Felix Wong, co-founder and CEO of Integrated Biosciences. We are delighted to integrate our proprietary technology platform with LVMH Recherche's scientific programs, leveraging our ability to control biological stress responses to develop new targeted bioactive molecules. Our combined efforts can lead to biologically functional products that could transform the way people age."

Technature: an innovative SME at the heart of the #ETIncelles program!

Technature ETIncelles

A French SME specializing in the formulation, manufacture and packaging of innovative cosmetic powders and skincare products, Technature has joined the 4th promotion of the national #ETIncelles program.

With the "ETIncelles" program, the French government supports small and medium-sized growth companies (SMEs) in their development into intermediate-sized companies (ETIs), by stimulating their growth and strengthening their resilience on national and international markets.

"I had the honor of representing Technature at the official launch of this 4th promotion at Bercy. It was an inspiring moment, alongside 45 other leaders, all driven by the desire to build the ETIs of tomorrow".wrote Pierre Morvan, President of Technature, in a Linkedin post.

A new stage

Joining this ambitious program, initiated by French President Emmanuel Macron and steered by Antoine Armand, Minister of the Economy, Finance and Industrial and Digital Sovereignty, marks a significant turning point in the company's evolution.

With #ETIncelles, TechNature intends to accelerate its growth by developing innovation, strengthening its teams and supporting major strategic projects in France and abroad.

The company also wants to strengthen its economic impact by creating jobs, generating value and contributing to the dynamism of France and Brittany.

"At Technature, growth is a challenge we take up every day. Rapid growth is an opportunity, but it requires agility and strategic choices. This program will enable us to stay focused on our core business, while acquiring the keys to take the next step: becoming an ETI".stresses Pierre Morvan.

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