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First cosmetics consortium to promote the traceability of natural resources

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetiques A green leaf with a drop of water on it, promoting the traceability of natural resources.

Eight players in the cosmetics sector have joined forces to form "ADN & Cosmétique", an unprecedented consortium whose aim is to guarantee the best possible traceability of plant raw materials. 
Using a scientific method based on DNA analysis, the consortium members plan to build the first reliable database to guarantee the botanical authenticity of the plant resources used in their products. This cooperative model meets consumers' expectations for transparency and the UN's sustainable development objectives. The members of this consortium are recognized players wishing to commit to more secure supplies and controlled exploitation of plant resources. 

Guaranteeing the authenticity of plant raw materials for cosmetics through DNA analysis

When buying natural raw materials, how can you be sure you're buying the right plant (guaranteeing botanical family, genus and species)? 
Securing supplies is one of the key challenges facing the consumer goods industry, and the cosmetics industry in particular, in line with consumers' growing expectations in terms of safety, authenticity and transparency, in line with the implementation of the Nagoya protocol. DNA analysis technology enables just such traceability. For example, it can be used to distinguish between white lilies (Lilium candidum) and royal white lilies (Lilium regale). 
Scientific work on lavender, an emblematic species in the cosmetics and perfume sectors, is being undertaken by the Consortium. 

Meeting sustainable development objectives

The cosmetics groups and ingredient suppliers in this consortium share the same values of rigor and respect for the consumer and the planet, and have decided to work together to contribute to the common good.
This unprecedented collaborative initiative meets 3 of the 17 MDGs established by the UN to enable companies to take concrete action to accelerate the ecological and inclusive transition, while contributing to the health of all by guaranteeing the absence of fraud in raw materials.

MDG 3: Good health and well-being
DNA analysis allows us to better secure the supply of plant raw materials and thus prevent health risks for consumers.

SDG 12: Responsible consumption and production.
DNA analysis enables us to better secure the production chains of plant raw materials and thus promote sustainable production methods.

ODD 17: Partnerships to achieve the goals
DNA analysis enables us to better secure the production chains of plant raw materials and thus promote sustainable production methods.

Consortium members
Clarins Laboratories
Codif Natural Technology
Greentech
L'Oréal Research & Innovation
LVMH Research
Nuxe Group 
Sederma
DNA Gensee

Initiated in 2018 by DNA Gensee (an innovative genetics VSE founded in 2012, based in Savoie-France), an expert in DNA analysis of plants, algae and beehive products, the "DNA & Cosmetics" Consortium aims to provide models for the cosmetics/perfume sector to ensure the safety of plant raw materials and enable better control of natural resources from plant to consumer. 
Cooperation between competing players in the chain who share the same conviction, as well as their knowledge and know-how, enables progress to be made towards more ethical, more sustainable and, consequently, safer production models.

Stoelzle Masnières signs the new refillable bottle of Sillages Paris

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetiques A perfume bottle spills onto a purple background adorned with the Stoelzle Masnières sign.

In 2017, after spending 3 years with the biggest luxury brands, Maxime Garcia-Janin decided to create his own brand to offer everyone to compose their own perfume online; a 3.0 revolution to reach a new generation, but not only... A different offer that has met its audience, of all ages! 

" At Sillages Paris, we handcraft in Paris the finest perfumes, personalized, formulated with the most beautiful ingredients, ultra-creative and accessible to all. Now, all our perfumes are also sustainable and refillable. ", says Maxime Garcia-Janin, who, since the beginning, is accompanied by 5 talented perfumers: Amélie Jacquin, Mylène Alran, Alex Lee, Nisrine Grillie and Sébastien Plan. 

The Stoelzle team is proud to support Sillages Paris for 5 years. The brand is now equipped with a new exclusive cubic refillable bottle, even more eco-responsible with 45.6 % of recycled glass PCR and PIR, no metallization and laser etching, a signature engraved on the bottom, a UV lacquer. And the use of an unscrewable pump and a screw ring for an optimal recycling of the different elements.

Refillable bottle in 50 ml.

Sarah Reisinger appointed Chief Research Officer of the Firmenich Group

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetics Sarah Reisinger is appointed Research Director for the Firmenich Group.

 Firmenich, the world's leading private fragrance and flavor company, appoints Sarah Reisinger as Chief Research Officer, effective July 1, 2021. Dr. Reisinger will report to Group CEO Gilbert Ghostine as a member of his executive team, having most recently held the position of Senior Vice President of Research Operations. She succeeds Professor Geneviève Berger, who will remain as strategic advisor to the CEO, before retiring on December 31, 2021. 

In his new role, Dr. Reisinger will lead Firmenich to new frontiers of scientific excellence, drawing on the Group's capital in cutting-edge innovation. 

"Sarah brings a unique combination of world-class experience in research and development management, both in start-ups and large corporations, with a strong background in biotechnology, augmented discovery and open innovation. I'm very proud to welcome her to my management team."said Gilbert Ghostine. "Firmenich is shaping the future of fragrance and taste, and this next-generation appointment demonstrates our commitment to providing our customers with cutting-edge technology and sustainable solutions that meet ever-changing consumer needs." 

"I'm enthusiastic about leading scientific research in changing fields and integrating new technologies, based on our heritage of scientific excellence." said Dr. Reisinger. "Our team's multidisciplinary and global approach to innovation in fragrance, taste and ingredients are huge assets in offering revolutionary solutions to our customers." 

"I would like to warmly thank Professor Berger for successfully expanding the scope of our R&D activity and championing white biotechnology. Under his leadership, we expanded research and strengthened our global footprint in science with new R&D centers, targeted acquisitions, and were the first to commercialize AI-generated solutions in fragrances and flavors."said Gilbert Ghostine. "I will continue to draw on his world-class scientific and business expertise over the coming months." 

Dr. Reisinger has extensive expertise in the field of biotechnology as well as solid experience in the development of ingredients and technologies for the consumer goods sector. Before joining Firmenich in 2018 as VP Biotechnology and Process Engineering, she held key roles at Ginkgo Bioworks, Intrexon and Amyris. She began her career in the field of cancer biology and treatment. Dr. Reisinger holds a B.S. in Biology from Harvey Mudd College, USA, an M.S. in Plant Biology and a Ph.D. in Microbiology from the University of California, Berkeley. 

A packaging for cosmetic products without microplastic pollution

By
The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques Microplastic pollution-free packaging for cosmetics.

Water-based products can now be packaged with Sulapac barrière, a new biobased material capable of biodegrading without leaving permanent microplastics in the environment.

The barrier is no longer an obstacle

The beauty and skincare products sector represents over 500 billion$ per year, with forecast annual growth of 4.75 %. This explains why some precursors are eagerly seeking more environmentally-friendly packaging solutions. Although water-based emulsions account for around 90 % of the cosmetics market, there was no alternative packaging for these products that could biodegrade without leaving permanent microplastics in the environment. 

Sulapac has invented a new material to meet this need (patent pending): Sulapac barrière is environmentally friendly and complies with industry standards, with tests that have produced results, according to the company, "fantastic results."

"I'm delighted that we've managed to create a barrier that's both environmentally friendly and suitable for water-based products! Its development and extensive testing took longer than expected, but we are now able to make the news official. We're delighted to be able to offer a truly revolutionary product to our customers, with industry leaders as our partner of choice for Quadpack cosmetics."explains Dr. Suvi Haimi, CEO and co-founder of Sulapac.

A complete range

Sulapac also announces the launch of a new flexible material designed for thin-walled jars with excellent impact resistance. It has a low carbon footprint, thanks to its eco-friendly design with environmentally-friendly components, and its cost-effective, high-capacity production method. With Sulapac barrière, the company's trusted partners offer a range of jars in different sizes for oleic and water-based cosmetics. They also offer a turnkey solution with support throughout the process.

 "The new barrier material developed by Sulapac enables us to continue offering environmentally-friendly innovations that meet or exceed market requirements. Whether it's new containers or cutting-edge technical solutions, Quadpack is pleased to offer all beauty brands an ever-evolving range of products, which are manufactured in Sulapac material."explains Pierre-Antoine Henry, Category Manager at Quadpack, Sulapac's cosmetics partner.

According to the company, Sulapac has ensured that the transition from conventional plastics to this new material is as smooth as possible. The material in this turnkey solution can be produced on a large scale using existing plastics machinery. It also benefits from a natural look and feel that sets it apart from the competition. "Sulapac is beautiful, functional and environmentally friendly, just like nature.the company says.

Today, industrial composting is the ideal way to recycle a product made from Sulapac material. It biodegrades without leaving permanent microplastics in the environment. Mechanical and chemical recycling are also possible options, and Sulapac is currently developing a closed-loop system. The Take Back Sulapac pilot will be launched shortly.

Functional makeup: the challenges of objectification and psycho-cosmetology, a webconference presented on May 27.

By
The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques Numerous pink lipsticks are arranged in a row for a web conference presentation on May 27.

The French Society of Cosmetology (SFC) is organizing a digital event on the theme of functional make-up. The event is divided into three webinars over three weeks:

- Valuation and Regulation: Thursday, May 27 from 4:30 to 6:00 p.m.
- Performance: Holding/non-transfer - Color/Brilliance: Thursday, June 3, 4:30 to 6:00 p.m.
- The make-up of tomorrow: Thursday, June 10 from 4:30 to 6:00 p.m. 

The first of three webconferences will cover the specific assessment and regulatory requirements for functional make-up.

On this occasion, Anne Charpentier, CEO of SkinObs, will present The challenges of objectifying functional make-up and its specificities, in particular the sensitivity of the areas tested, and innovative solutions. The daily monitoring and updating of methods and laboratories on preclinical and clinical testing platforms (data sheets available at www.skinobs.com) that she has been running for the past five years, enabling her to provide an exhaustive and unprecedented look at the solutions and practices available to cosmeticians.

Emmanuelle Couval, R&D and Innovation Director at MS Beautilab, will talk about "psycho-cosmetology", using lipstick as an example. She will summarize what neuroscience teaches us, and how it can be used in the evaluation of make-up products, in particular to show the emotional impact of a lipstick.

Finally, Tiphaine Daubert-Macia, Head of Operational Regulatory Affairs at LVMH, will address the regulatory constraints of functional make-up.

Full program and registration :
www.sfc-events.com/rencontres

Verpack acquires the company PLV 37 and enriches its offer

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetiques A construction sign for POS 37 is acquired by Verpack, enriching its offer.

When the capital was recently opened up to Crédit Mutuel Equity for 25 %, the Viers family gained the support of external financial partners and the involvement of its management staff. 
Today, this acquisition, made with equity capital, marks the first milestone in the Group's development strategy, which aims to double sales within 5 to 7 years. 

PLV 37, a source of added value

Located at Neuillé-Pont-Pierre in the Touraine region, this unit of some twenty employees focuses its expertise on high value-added functions such as laminating, silk-screening, die-cutting, gilding, folding and gluing... What's more, its structure and positioning promise ample opportunities for development.

"Our aim is to perpetuate our long-standing PLV 37 business and extend our range of services to cover the entire graphics chain, in order to offer our customers greater flexibility and proximity. We plan to offer new services in the very near future, which will strengthen our offer and our attractiveness."comments Stéphane Viers, President of the Verpack Group.

Expanding our offering and gaining in proximity

The integration will be placed under the operational management of Jonathan Allain. With a wealth of technical industrial experience, he recently sold his company TPG Packaging, which focuses on the luxury goods and spirits markets. For the Verpack Group, he will ensure the fluidity of operations with the other sites, in order to offer customers and prospects flexibility and speed of execution. 

"We are proud to have concluded this transaction with the Verpack group, with whom we share human values and environmental commitments. We see this as the sign of a long-term collaboration."concludes Sylvie Casenave-Péré, President of the Posson Group.

Hydration tops the list of sought-after claims

By
The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A creamy pot with an emphasis on hydration and desired claims, adorned with a leaf.

Skinobs' platforms help cosmeticians, R&D managers, formulators, marketers or regulatory affairs managers to find, worldwide, recognized test providers and relevant methods to support the claims of active ingredients or finished products.

The company provides an update on clinical evaluation tests in a data sheet available online free of charge.

Recent statistics from its "Clinical Testing" platform show that hydration is the claim most favored by its users. A "flagship" position confirmed year after year by numerous marketing studies on consumer expectations. Presented as the sesame of claims, it often remains associated with other skincare claims such as those relating to aging, inflammation, mechanical properties, pollution, complexion radiance, and so on.

The best-known measuring principle uses the skin's electrical properties to assess the moisturizing effect of the Stratum Corneum, epidermis and dermis. This method indirectly measures capacitance, impedance or permittivity with specific characteristics according to the different skin layers. Measurement is easy, fast, reproducible and recognized, and can be carried out under a variety of conditions, including climatic ones:

  • Stratum Corneum: Corneometer (C+K), Dermalab, Epsilon (Biox), MoistureMeter SC, Skicon-200, DPM 9003,
  • Skin: MoistureMeterEpiD,
  • Dermis: MoistureMeterD

Alternative quantitative and qualitative measurements have emerged with different technologies:

  • Micro-topographic analysis: MoistureMap (C+K), Epsilon (Biox)
  • Infrared spectroscopy: Dermo
  • Insensible Water Loss (IWL), indirect method for measuring water evaporation from the skin surface: Tewameter TM 300 and Nano (C+K), Aquaflux (Biox), Dermalab, Evaporimeter, Vapometer
  • Skin surface observation: Visioscan (C+K), Dermalab, Hirox, and all camera systems
  • Scoring by expert technicians and dermatologists is a valuable approach, providing a wealth of information through visual and tactile objectification, using specific scales.

Hydration can be objectivized using very high-tech, non-invasive methods in a number of ways:

  • Observation of skin structure: MPT Flex Optical Multiphoton Tomography, Scanner, Vivascope and Vivosight and Laser Confocal microscopy,
  • Molecular water content with LBRAM 800 confocal microscopy and gen2-SCA Raman spectroscopy.
  • The latest technology developed is 3D LC-OCT microscopy, which provides quantitative and visual results.

Sensory analysis by trained panels or naïve subjects provides scientific objectification and can be combined with emotional analysis. Consumer tests under normal conditions of use also contribute to this evaluation.

Finally, skin studies include scalp studies. For hair care, various methods have been developed to objectivize claims related to combing, friction, traction and structure.

Skinobs recommends taking the time with CROs to design each protocol and precisely define inclusion criteria, measurement times, application conditions, the most appropriate measurement method, etc. V

The Skinobs hydration data sheet can be accessed by following this link link. Some 27 methods available from 75 laboratories are listed.

Croda Personal Care launches a Micro Zinc Oxide for the formulation of transparent sunscreens

By
The editorial staff
-
site-industries-cosmetiques A woman uses Zinc Oxide Micro from Croda Personal Care for a transparent sun protection formulation while washing her daughter's arm in the bathroom.

Global specialty chemicals company Croda has launched a new solution for safe, long-lasting sun protection products, Solaveil MicNo, which combines all the benefits of micro-sized zinc oxide (ZnO) with skin transparency.

This innovative range of ZnO powders and dispersions is based on patented platelet-shaped structures that guarantee a Solaveil MicNo particle size suitable for natural, Cosmos-approved formulations, while remaining transparent on the skin. This level of transparency makes the range versatile and suitable for a wide range of applications and skin phototypes.

Helene Hine, Sun Protection Marketing Manager, comments: "Driven by our "smart science to improve lives" mission, we want to tackle some of the biggest challenges facing the world today and are committed to making a positive impact on climate, earth and people by 2030. One of our key objectives as part of our "People Positive" commitment is to protect at least 60 million people a year from skin cancers, through the use of our sunscreen ingredients.Our latest launch, Solaveil MicNo, helps us achieve this goal, by expanding our Solaveil mineral filter range and addressing a key challenge for mineral formulations - skin whitening. As this range is based on ZnO, it is inherently gentle and non-irritating, and there are no skin penetration problems, so it's perfect for babies, children and sensitive skin. Solaveil MicNo products are also ideal for natural brands. The range comprises both coated and uncoated particles, with Cosmos variants available. For the first time ever, it is possible to formulate highly transparent mineral sunscreen systems to meet the needs of consumers looking for natural, clean sunscreens."

Capsum, Gold Award at the Growth Company Summit

By
The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A man accepting the Capsum award at the Sommet des Entreprises de Croissance, speaking into a microphone.

French SME Capsum, which is multiplying its co-creations with beauty giants won over by its encapsulated pearls and bubbles, was awarded the Gold Trophy in the Pharma, Biotech & Medtech category at the Growth Company Summit organized by Leaders League.

A specialist in microfluidics, the company has been growing at a rate of 50 % per year for the past ten years. Founded in 2008, it recently celebrated ten years of success in Marseille and the opening of a site in Texas, at the cutting edge of environmental standards.

"This award goes to the whole team, which now numbers over 250 people in France and the United States, and whose aim is to manufacture the world's finest cosmetics using new technologies. We have a laboratory and a factory in Marseille, as well as a plant that has just opened in Austin, Texas. This is the start of an international expansion that will continue for a long time to come.said Capsum President Sébastien Bardon.

Quadpack invests in smart manufacturing

By
The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques Quadpack invests in intelligent manufacturing for a plant equipped with advanced machinery and equipment.

Efficiency, high technology and sustainability are at the heart of Quadpack's operating strategy, and the company has invested four million euros with the aim of providing cosmetics and perfumery packaging solutions "in the region and for the region". 

Quadpack's plants in Germany and Spain will focus on Airless and sustainable packaging innovation within its QLine portfolio of smart, modular solutions, with products that can be stored, assembled and decorated anywhere in the world.

Quadpack Wood in Spain now boasts a biomass power plant that is taking the plant to carbon neutrality - an investment of 2.5 million euros. Using wood waste to provide air conditioning and heating, the new plant provides clean energy, reduces waste and cuts dust in the air, for better health and safety. Thanks to this investment, the plant has already achieved a reduction of around 400 tonnes of CO2 emissions per year.

In addition, €360,000 is being invested throughout 2021 in Industrie 4.0. These are the beginnings of a multi-year project that will include more plants and the application of the system. The plant currently has 63 machines connected by Internet of Things (IoT) devices that will provide real-time data, giving process visibility and equipment efficiency control. With a production capacity of 45 million parts a year, these initiatives set a benchmark for smart, sustainable manufacturing.

An investment of 2 million euros is planned this year for high-speed production and decoration at Louvrette, Quadpack's German manufacturing plant. Louvrette is Quadpack's Airless manufacturing hub, and is set to become a major center for decoration. New decoration and injection-molding equipment will enable it to deliver finished products even faster. In March, Louvrette inaugurated an Airless assembly line with a capacity of 11 million units a year. The plant is also investing in new Airless molds, aiming to increase its Airless capacity to 20 million products per year.

Fabrice Revert, COO at Quadpack, said: "Our investment in smart manufacturing will help our operations become more agile and sustainable. We aim to ensure that our processes have a positive impact on the environment, while bringing value to our customers, in a process of continuous improvement."

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