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The Different Company: roses and the Sahara wind

site-industries-cosmetiques Two bottles of oil and a bag.

The Different Company, a brand founded by Thierry de Baschmakoff in 2000, then taken over by Sophie and Luc Gabriel in 2004, has recently launched two new fragrances.

AlSahra is an oriental-mineral eau de parfum by Émilie Coppermann, perfumer at Symrise. Its description? "The scent of the desert wind, mineral and sensual, chasing a caravan of spices. A daring incense trail spiked with an invigorating hint of cinnamon and white violet, enveloped by the ambery warmth of cistus labdanum and the unctuousness of sandalwood."

Rose Poivrée, composed by Jean-Claude Ellena, combines the surprising sensuality of two roses, Damascena and Centifolia, underlined by green, spicy touches of black pepper and pink berry, delicately oriental.

Creation of a strategic committee for the cosmetics industry

site-industries-cosmetiques A variety of cosmetics are displayed against a dark background.

 On March 26, Agnès Pannier-Runacher, Minister Delegate to the Minister of the Economy, Finance and Economic Recovery, in charge of Industry, brought together representatives of the cosmetics industry to launch a partnership action plan to promote competitiveness, innovation, the ecological transition and "Made in France". 

By meeting in "Estates General" last October, and submitting to the public authorities "the 30 measures for a sustainable, winning recovery "The French perfume and cosmetics industry, united behind the Pôle de Compétitivité " Cosmetic Valley "and their trade federation, FEBEA, wanted their industry to be more visible, more heard and more considered, given its importance to the national economy and its position as a world leader. 

As a precursor to this collective approach, the sector's main contractors, at the initiative of Agnès Pannier-Runacher, Minister Delegate to the Minister of the Economy, Finance and Economic Recovery, in charge of Industry, and after discussions with their suppliers, adopted a " declaration of solidarity by the cosmetics industry with companies in the glass sector ". It underlines the synergies that must unite an entire value chain based entirely in France, from formulation to production, distribution and export. 

The Minister responded to this mobilization by announcing, during a visit to several companies in the sector, near Chartres, in Eure-et-Loir (28), on January 7, 2021, that she would shortly be bringing together industry representatives. 

An initial meeting was held on Friday March 26, by videoconference, under the aegis of the Minister and in the presence of representatives of the industry (SMEs, ETIs, major groups, prime contractors, suppliers, federations). The aim of the meeting was to establish a shared understanding of the industry's strategic challenges, and to identify the structuring projects required to meet them. The health crisis and its economic consequences have exacerbated the main challenges facing the perfume and cosmetics industry (environmental transition, digital transformation and competitiveness). Participants discussed a number of avenues to promote innovation and competitiveness in the industry, environmental protection and consumer safety, and the solidarity of their ecosystem. 

Agnès Pannier-Runacher also announced a number of structuring projects: the launch of a mission to evaluate the investments required for the industry's ecological transition, the creation of a gas pedal dedicated to the digitalization of industry suppliers, operated by Bpifrance, and the Maison internationale de la cosmétique, due to open in Chartres in 2024. 

Participants in the industry committee agreed to adopt a roadmap for implementing these priorities by the summer, and a first progress report will be made at the "Cosmetics Industry Summit" on October 13 and 14 in Paris. 

Agnès Pannier-Runacher declared: "Perfumery and cosmetics is a major industry in France, and one of our economy's main export spearheads. I am delighted with this first meeting of industry representatives, which has enabled us to collectively identify the challenges facing the industry in terms of competitiveness, environmental and digital transitions, and to set the priorities to be pursued by the industry in cooperation with the French government". 

Patrick O'Quin, President of the Fédération des Entreprises de Beauté, added This meeting establishes the cosmetics industry as a strategic player in economic, social and innovation terms. I'm delighted to have this opportunity to affirm the shared determination of all the participants to give ourselves the means to be part of the ecological transition in order to continue the growth of our industry and keep it at the top of the world rankings". 

Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of the competitiveness cluster Cosmetic Valleysaid : "The creation of this committee is a great success for the entire French cosmetics industry, which has been calling for it for a long time. It demonstrates both the State's recognition of the strategic importance of our sector for employment, for our country's growth and for France's international presence, and the need to amplify the major ecological and digital changes it has initiated. Finally, I hope that it will encourage everyone to be even prouder and more aware of the assets that France's large, innovative and high-performance industry, the world leader in its sector, represents for the country". 

PCD Innovation Awards: finalists announced

site-industries-cosmetiques The logos of the pd innovation awards 2021.

The ADF&PCD and PLD Innovation Awards awards the most outstanding packaging innovations of the year on the European market.


160 files in competition this year 

The Innovation Awards have attracted a wide range of entries for the 2021 edition. This year, it was in the context of a somewhat unusual health situation that the three separate Awards juries were held in digital mode for all the jurors and in person for the Awards Chairmen and organizers. 

It should be noted that each jury was expanded and brought together independent experts, professionals and journalists from the specialized press. In a convivial atmosphere, with sometimes lively exchanges and debates, all the products in competition were examined and judged during the three separate sessions.

Christelle Anya, Director of Content and Community - Brand and Institutional Relations, says: " These juries are moments of rich and exciting exchanges. These are moments of sharing that we appreciate every year as the organizer of these Awards. All of them are keen to evaluate the innovations of the luxury market, to share their expertise and to exchange between professionals on the innovations that are in competition." 

The 2021 vintage should give a good visibility to the winners of the three juries who presented remarkable innovations this year.

Some 24 innovations are highlighted this year.

The finalists are :

Premium Makeup Category

  • Luxury Hydrating Lipstick - Juni Cosmetics
  • Strech Mascara - Chanel
  • Les Beiges" Fluid Foundation - Chanel
  • Seduction Collection Lipstick - Jimmy Choo

Category Fragrance Women and Men

  • Bohemian Snake - Boucheron
  • My Way - Giorgio Armani
  • Seduction Collection Perfume - Jimmy Choo
  • Montblanc Signature - Interparfums
  • Loubiworld - Puig
  • The Concrete ban - Givenchy
  • Perfect Marc Jacob - Coty
  • Sauvage Resource - Parfums Christian Dior

Premium Care Category

  • The Lift and Hydra Beauty - Chanel
  • Clean Skincare Evercalm - Ren
  • Double Essence Clarifier - L'Oréal Lancôme
  • Prodigy Cure Cell Glow - L'Oréal Helena Rubinstein

Consumer Care Category

  • Naturally Good Body Lotion - Nivea
  • Shea Butter Hand Cream - L'Occitane
  • Eco-responsible moisturizing milk SPF50+ - Anthélios L'Oréal

Category Hygiene and Hair Care 

  • Social Plastic - Henkel AG&CO KGaA 
  • Garnier Ultra Gentle Solid Shampoo and Dop Solid Shampoo - L'Oréal

Limited Edition Category

  • Exceptional Beige Box - Chanel
  • Flower Bomb - L'Oréal Viktor & Rolf
  • Christal Peony Collection - Lalique

Symrise: appointment of Eder Ramos

site-industries-cosmetiques A man in a suit smiles at the camera.

General President of the Cosmetic Ingredients division in Latin America since 2014, Eder Ramos becomes, in March 2021, World President of Symrise's Fragrance division in Paris, in charge of the fine fragrance, consumer perfume and oral care sectors. 

In addition to this new role, he will continue to preside over the Scent & Care division for Latin America, which he has helped to bring up to the level of the world's other major regions.

Packaging, process, marking and control equipment: market in decline but hope for recovery in 2021

site-industries-cosmetiques A pie chart showing the percentage of consumers who use credit cards.

Secimep, the international trade association for packaging, process, marking and control equipment, has announced a drop in sales of around 5 % in value in 2020 for all production line equipment. The trend was also downward for staff numbers (-1.5%) and orders.

This downturn can be explained by manufacturers' lack of visibility regarding business trends in a sector where investments are heavy and projects frozen until the health situation improves. As a result of the pandemic, the agri-food industry, in relation to the catering and cosmetics sectors, suffered the most, and investment was slowed down the most, whereas the pharmaceutical and e-commerce sectors fared well.

According to half-yearly statistics compiled by Secimep for its members of the "marking, traceability and labeling" group, which represents the seven main companies in this sector in France, equipment sales fell by 4 % in 2020. Sales of consumables and spare parts remained at their usual levels.

BETTER PROSPECTS FOR 2021

For 2021, companies in the Packaging, Process Marking and Control machinery sector are forecasting a rebound in business of 3 % thanks to the resumption of projects, subject to developments in the health situation. They expect to increase their workforce by 1.5 % and their order book by 6 %.

Some 61 % of companies surveyed by Secimep expect growth - often moderate - as the crisis recedes. A third expect a return to pre-Covid conditions in the 2nd half of 2021. Another third sees a return to the pre-Covid situation in a year or more. But the final third believes that the return to normal has already been achieved, or is planned for the first half of this year.Read more :secimep.com

Cosmetic Valley's Sensory Congress: 150 participants connected

site-industries-cosmetiques Sensory experience & innovation.

Some 150 participants took part in the online edition of the Sensory conference organized by Cosmetic Valley on March 18, 2010, live from Tours.

Live from the Mame, the city of creation and innovation, the 4th edition of the congress allowed all participants to interact with the speakers. 

The congress was introduced by Marc-Antoine Jamet, president of Cosmetic Valley, alongside Thierry Chailloux, vice-president of Tours Métropole Val de Loire and Bernard Plat, president of the association Valesens, which is dedicated to the dissemination of sensory innovation. 

In his speech, Marc-Antoine Jamet praised the territory's expertise in sensorial matters and thanked the partners who had designed and participated in a rich and dense program. "Cosmetic Valley organizes many conferences on scientific topics such as safety or lipids, cosmetology or regulation. But the Sensory conference is unique because of its subject, he said. Perfumery and cosmetics is a business of sensory creation. Touch, sight, smell, sensory construction, brain translation of emotions, sensory design ... are now at the center of developments.

The conferences of the fourth edition of the Sensory congress are now available on demand in replay on the Swapcard platform, until April 5th 2021.

New distribution agreement between Biolie and Unipex

site-industries-cosmetiques Beakers with liquids and foils on a white surface.

Biolie, a French specialist in enzymatic extraction, and Unipex, a French Smart Distributor of specialty ingredients, have signed a distribution agreement for the entire French territory, starting March 22, 2021.

Founded in 2012, Biolie has made a name for itself in green chemistry through its zero waste eco-process. Thanks to its knowledge of enzymes and their implementation without chemical solvents, Biolie transforms plant raw materials to extract highly differentiated innovative molecules with its patented environmentally friendly process.

Biolie offers an innovative range of natural ingredients for cosmetics, including original and unique vegetable oils, botanical extracts and Rainb'oil, a range of organic colored natural oils. Since its inception, Biolie has been developing original ingredients derived from the valorization of co-products, better known today under the growing trend of Upcycling. Certified and approved by Cosmos, the ingredients can be integrated into any type of galenic, for the care or hygiene of the skin and hair.

With this new offer, Unipex offers new innovation perspectives to cosmetic actors in France, to better meet consumer demand for ever more sustainable ingredients.

L'Oréal invests in environmental tech startup Gjosa

site-industries-cosmetiques An iPad with a device attached.

L'Oréal announces a minority investment in Swiss environmental technology start-up Gjosa, made via Bold Business Opportunities for L'Oréal Development, its private equity fund.

Based in Biel, Switzerland, Gjosa develops unique water-saving solutions. L'Oréal and Gjosa have been working together since 2015 to optimize shampoo rinsing technologies with the aim of limiting the amount of water used. In 2018, L'Oréal and Gjosa announced the development of a showerhead capable of rinsing a shampoo with 1.5 liters of water (instead of the 8 usually used). At CES in January 2021, L'Oréal and Gjosa presented L'Oréal Water Savera sustainable hair care technology for salons and the home.

"At L'Oréal, our ambition is to offer the best in environmentally-friendly beauty and to be the champion of "Beauty Tech". By combining Gjosa's unique innovations in water consumption control with L'Oréal's in-depth knowledge of beauty rituals, technologies and personalization, together we are inventing new beauty experiences while protecting the precious and sought-after resource that is water", said Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice-President Research, Innovation and Technology at L'Oréal.

"We are delighted to begin this new chapter in our partnership with L'Oréal. Their leadership in beauty R&D, "Beauty Tech" and iconic brands will enable us to accelerate the development of our technologies for consumers worldwide, said Amin Abdulla and Luc Amgwerd, co-founders of Gjosa. This strengthening of our partnership will enable us to offer the best solutions for saving water, both in salons and at home. We are delighted to be able to work together towards this goal.

Quadpack: a refill version of its best-selling airless range

site-industries-cosmetiques A set of bottles with the words airless refill.

Beauty packaging manufacturer and distributor Quadpack launches refill version of its best-selling airless range, combining durability and convenience

Regula Airless, Quadpack's flagship range, has taken a major step towards positive-impact packaging. The line has incorporated a new format featuring a refillable mechanism that makes it easy to remove and insert a new refill.

The QLine innovation consists of a snap-on ring that facilitates the insertion of the product's removable inner component or refill into the packaging after filling, via a safe and practical system that protects the formula. Its eco-design encourages consumers to reuse the product, as a threading system makes it easy to remove the inner part. To enhance recyclability, Regula Airless Refill features a metal-free pump.

The packaging is the same size as the Regula Airless model, making it easy for customers to adopt the refill version. Regula Airless Refill is available in 15 ml, 30 ml and 50 ml versions, and is made in Europe.

This new launch is an example of Quadpack's "positive impact strategy", which aims to continuously improve the sustainability of its product portfolio. Quadpack has set itself the goal of becoming the world leader in airless packaging, thanks to its extensive manufacturing capabilities and strategic collaborations.

The Cosmetic Victories 2021: the finalists are known

site-industries-cosmetiques An orange flower with the words les victoires cosmétiques.

Some 81 projects from 13 countries were received for the 6e edition of The Cosmetic Victories international research and innovation competition created by Cosmetic Valley in 2015.  

The two prizes (Academic Prize and Industry Prize) will be awarded by a reference jury responsible for selecting the winners from among six finalists in this year's competition.

Accepted by a selection committee made up of industry professionals and international scientific experts, applications had to demonstrate innovation or research applicable to perfumery and cosmetics in all areas of the industry: ingredients, formulation, testing, processes, packaging, chemistry, biotechnology, digital, distribution, new products and services. 

Each winner will receive a prize of 10,000 euros and support from Cosmetic Valley.

This year's contenders :

Academic category : AgroParisTech (France) for its library of new biobased uva filters, University of Pau and Pays de l'Adour (France ) for a new generation of biosourced microgels, and theÉcole Centrale de Lyon (France) for an augmented human finger.

Industrial category : PolyBridge (France) for a plastic-free packaging concept, Roelmi HPC (Italy) for a texturizing powder, representing an ethical alternative to microplastic powders, and InventionBio (Poland) for its intelligent delivery system based on green chemicals.

The awards ceremony will be broadcast live on "Cosmetic Valley TV", Tuesday March 30, 2021 at 5 pm.

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