For many years, VPI has been investing in research and development to guarantee its customers ever more responsible packaging solutions for the beauty and spirits markets.
To meet the brand's demand, VPI took on two challenges on the new Clarins UV Plus anti-pollution product Écran Multi-Protection Hydratant launching in March 2021.
A sober capsule
On the technical front, this capsule has developed and maintained an ultrasonic welding process for parts made from recycled materials.
Aesthetically, the combination of PET and recycled PET has resulted in a light tint on the cap, one of Clarins' wishes to remain in the brand's universe. Tamponprinting with the brand name and a pearlescent lacquering enhance the spherical cap, which screws onto the plastic tube, adding the brand's premium touch.
Numerous tests were carried out to optimize the technique and achieve a remarkable capsule, which will be available in several references and sizes in the line (30ml, 50ml). "Our aim is to offer our customers innovative, sustainable solutions in the field of injection molding, and to add value to their projects.says Marc Beltrami, VPI Sales Director.
The event planned for June has been postponed to January 2022 due to the short-term uncertainty of the pandemic, but actions to connect the community will be stepped up.
Easyfairs, organizer of ADF&PCD and PLD Paris, the world's leading event for premium fragrance, cosmetics and beverage packaging, as well as aerosols and dispensables, announces that the event will be rescheduled from June 22 & 23, 2021 to January 19 & 20, 2022.
The decision to move the event dates was taken in consultation with the event's many stakeholders across the industry, in response to the continuing force majeure situation linked to the coronavirus pandemic. In particular, the permanent ban on face-to-face events of all sizes, the ongoing restrictions linked to the pandemic and the current progression of the virus in France, as well as the new confinements in Ile-de-France and other regions, made it impossible to organize the event in the short term.
Renan Joel, packaging events manager for Easyfairs UK & Global in the UK and France, said: "While we are saddened to have to postpone the event for the second time, our exhibitors, visitors and association partners have expressed their unwavering support for the new dates - and for the crucial role that ADF&PCD and PLD Paris play in creating professional relationships and opportunities for all those involved in packaging innovation in these markets."
Although it remains impossible to organize face-to-face events in the short term, ADF&PCD and PLD Paris are stepping up their activities to connect market players and accelerate packaging innovation for the communities they represent in the French and international beauty, luxury, beverage and aerosol industries.
This week sees the inaugural ADF&PCD and PLD Digital Days, offering a unique opportunity for packaging developers, designers and suppliers to learn about the latest trends and opportunities in packaging innovation. Speakers will include packaging experts from some of the world's leading brands in the beauty, beverage and FMCG markets, as well as the market's most innovative suppliers. In addition, the shortlist for the 2021 edition of the ADF&PCD and PLD Innovations Awards will be announced. Full details are available at www.adfpcdparis.com/digital–days.
Alongside Digital Days, ADF&PCD and PLD Paris has stepped up its social media activities and now boasts the largest audience of any premium packaging-focused account on Instagram, bringing daily packaging inspiration to over 10,000 followers. In addition, a new regular series of "Innovation Talks" webinars will be launched in the spring, complementing the daily updated website and fortnightly newsletter, which already bring exclusive content to the community.
Renan Joel adds: "ADF&PCD and PLD Paris are committed to creating the best possible environment for our community to meet, tackle its challenges and drive its innovations. I'm delighted that we're creating new channels to fulfill this mission, and that the initiatives we've already launched are attracting strong interest from our community. Last year was extremely challenging for everyone in the packaging supply chain, and we at Easyfairs are very proud to be working with an industry that has shown such resilience since the onset of the pandemic, and has played a crucial role at every stage in helping governments and society respond to Covid. While we are naturally sad to have to postpone the 2021 edition of ADF&PCD and PLD Paris, we are very excited to bring the community together in Paris in January 2022 and build the future of this wonderful industry together."
And he continues: "I would like to thank our many partners among exhibitors, visitors, associations and the media for their continued support of the event and look forward to working with them for an exceptional edition of ADF&PCD and PLD Paris in 2022."
For more information on these initiatives, on the Innovation Awards 2021, on Digital Days, on the 2022 event, as well as on the measures that will be put in place to ensure a health-compliant event, visit www.adfpcdparis.com.
Against a backdrop of growing environmental and social challenges, Lancôme is launching its sustainable development program "Taking care of today for a happier tomorrow" (Caring Together for a Happier Tomorrow), which reflects the brand's ambitions in terms of sustainable development and social inclusion.
"Throughout its 85-year history, Lancôme has been committed to passing on, giving back and caring for others. Because Lancôme is one of the world's leading luxury beauty brands, we have a duty to take action on environmental and social issues, and to help build a happier, more sustainable future for everyone. Lancôme is accelerating its transformation and mobilizing to serve causes that are dear to the brand's heart and for which we all feel a sense of urgency, such as protecting biodiversity, supporting vulnerable women around the world, and empowering our consumers to opt for more sustainable consumption choices and become agents of change."explains Françoise Lehmann, General Manager of Lancôme International.
Aware that this next decade represents a critical moment for the planet, Lancôme is accelerating its global transformation through three complementary pillars:
1. Taking care of the environment with the pillar Bring the World to BloomThe aim is to protect various forms of biodiversity, reduce the brand's impact through innovations in formulas and packaging, implement regenerative agricultural practices and develop partnerships with leading institutions to help preserve biodiversity.
2. Taking care of consumers with the pillar Live ResponsiblyThe aim is to empower consumers to make sustainable consumption choices by offering refillable, refillable and recyclable products.
3. Caring for women with Write her Futurethe brand's philanthropic cause, aimed at combating illiteracy among women by giving them access to education, mentoring and entrepreneurship.
AMB Spa, a family-owned company founded over 50 years ago in north-east Italy, was the first packaging manufacturer to set up a fully water-based converting plant in Europe. AMB is a leading international supplier of rigid and flexible films, offering a unique end-to-end process. The pan-European company's "all-in-one" products and services include all aspects of the packaging process: design, tooling, product specification, print design and application. In recent years, AMB has expanded its water-based flexo printing capabilities in a move that reinforces the company's strong commitment to high-quality printing using environmentally friendly water-based methods.
360-degree services
All AMB plastic film processes are carried out using water-based systems. This commitment to innovation and sustainable development has formed the basis for the company's pioneering role in developing environmental solutions combined with high quality.
AMB's eco-friendly printing services encompass the entire process, from initial design to high-quality water-based flexo printing. AMB printing delivers rich, crisp colors and photographic detail using water-based inks. They can be used on repositionable films, Apet sealers, Matte lacquers, as well as to create a paper effect.
The "all-in-one" service offers sustainable printing applications on bottom & top film, flow pack film, labels and paper. By using water-based technology, AMB customers can improve their own environmental credentials. At the same time, they can expand their business and attract customers who are sensitive to the growing global awareness of sustainable development. On retail shelves, it strengthens brands, as eye-catching visuals attract consumers and reassure them that their purchase will not harm the environment.
According to AMB, "the company's unique approach guarantees not only sustainability, but also quality, speed and flexibility. Graphics, pre-press, platemaking and printing are all managed in one place, simplifying the supply chain and offering customers greater speed and a smoother path to market. The flexibility of the process means that customers can easily personalize their products by offering small print quantities, enabling them to vary part numbers and seasonal products, as well as mass-market promotions.
Maximizing productivity with water-based technologies
AMB has increased its printing capacity by 150 % to 28 million meters per year, with a minimum web width of 300 mm and a maximum of 1,250 mm. To achieve this, the company recently invested in a Bobst Expert CI printer, a second 8-color flexo printer, which has joined the Comexi Flexo F2 WB already installed at AMB's San Daniele del Friuli premises.
Both Bobst and Comexi are closely aligned with AMB's sustainability strategy. In 2014, AMB became the first company in Europe to pave the way for the production of water-based packaging, a revolutionary process that completely eliminates the use of solvents. Water-based technology for packaging and printing offers a competitive advantage to all companies offering food products with high-quality ingredients, to companies implementing ecological policies, and to companies wishing to meet the increasingly stringent packaging requirements put in place by the EU. It also reduces overall energy consumption and minimizes waste.
"As pioneers in water-based printing and lamination, we have always invested in technologies that keep us at the forefront of development and deliver on our promise of truly sustainable production to our customers."say Bruno Marin, AMB CEO, and Alessandro Marin, Technical Director.
By launching its "Naturality Index", Givaudan intends to accelerate its own journey towards nature-friendly creations, in line with the company's raison d'être: to create with nature in mind. The aim is to "to show our love for nature in everything we do".states a press release
The Naturality Index is an evaluation tool. Its objective: to offer perfumers the possibility of taking into account the environmental impact of their ingredient selection, thus bringing a new dimension of differentiation to the creative process. The tool evaluates ingredients and formulas in terms of biodegradability, renewability, sourcing and other aspects affecting fragrance sustainability. The index is based on four aspects: positive environmental impact, ingredient origin, energy efficiency and responsible sourcing. These measures are in line with Givaudan's naturalness objectives, and meet the expectations of customers seeking more sustainable solutions for their brands.
"At a time when consumers are increasingly looking for original fragrances that are also sustainable, our Naturality Index is an invaluable tool for creating fragrances that respect nature. Our perfumers gain access to a new dimension that completes the creative process, while our customers benefit from reliable and unique measures of the sustainability of their olfactory solutions".says Maurizio Volpi, President of the Perfumes and Beauty division.
A responsible approach
The Naturality Index is part of the "Naturality Platform", a large-scale project launched a few years ago to establish a unique way of using a palette that respects nature, and to create a vision for future sustainable creations with a positive impact for consumers.
The Naturality Platform meets the expectations of consumers who aspire to fragrances designed with a conscious, authentic and responsible approach. It defines new holistic ways of creating responsible fragrances, using natural, renewable or biodegradable ingredients.
Its aim: to enable fragrances to be designed in a nature-conscious way. It is based on three pillars: a series of consumer research programs that identify their expectations in terms of the transition to responsible products; the "Naturality Guide", which provides market segmentation and understanding, defining new formulation rules and accompanying Givaudan's customers in the choices and parameters necessary for the development of nature-conscious fragrances; and the Naturality Index, which accompanies perfumers in their choice of ingredients.
g.pivaudran, a French company 100% family-owned since 1948, designs and produces innovative, made-to-measure aluminum objects for the global perfume, cosmetics and spirits markets. Building on past experience, the prestigious French fashion house Hermès has once again called on the expertise of g.pivaudran to create two of the centerpieces for the new men's fragrance H24. g.pivaudran produced two sets for H24, consisting of an aluminum cover assembled with a ballasted plastic insert, and an aluminum shouldered hoop also assembled with a plastic insert.
" We are very proud to have worked alongside the Hermès teams on the development of H24, in a fine continuation of Voyage d'Hermès and Jour d'Hermès. stresses Marc Pivaudran, President of g.pivaudran.
Aluminium enhances the hood
The hood is made of deep-drawn aluminum, with a "high gloss" appearance and a silver tint, on which a fine intaglio engraving of the Hermès brand is placed on a stepped plate. On the flanks are two hollowed, radiated edgings that emphasize the shapes of the hood, while a rolled edge at the base softens the line. Inside this aluminum cap, a polypropylene insert is assembled at high speed on an automatic machine, with internal engraving of the brand. This component, made in partnership with Rovip, has a background engraving of the Hermès brand. It also features 3 notches for clipping into the fret groove, flush with the top of the aluminum plate. The design of this delicate adjustment, in partnership with Hermès teams, showcases g.pivaudran's expertise in offering an extremely high quality cap/fret assembly on the bottle produced by Pochet du Courval. Pairing the aluminum plate with the hood was necessary to harmonize the aesthetics of the whole, as was the gloss level of the plate, in which the reflection of the hood drowns elegantly.
" Fitting the plastic insert under the aluminum plate in a very specific section enabled us to control the orientation, so as to ensure continuity between the aluminum plate skirt and the bottle. "explains Hervé Delaigue, g.pivaudran Sales and Development Director.
The cap covers all three sizes: 50 ml, 100 ml and the 125 ml refill.
Seppic, an Air Liquide company, announces the commissioning of its first production site in the United States, Seppic's second largest plant for the production of high-performance specialty ingredients used in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical markets. This new plant, already in operation, gives Seppic additional production capacity of over 50 % for thickening and texturizing agents, to meet the growing demands of its customers in the United States and around the world. Located near Richmond, Virginia, the site was strategically selected for its skilled workforce and will energize the local community by creating over 50 jobs. The site is also ideally located to serve the Northeastern U.S., where 80 % of Seppic's U.S. customers are located, and the export market. The facility has been designed to meet the highest levels of quality in line with Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP), and has already achieved ISO 9001, EFfCI and RSPO certification. The facility currently operates fully automated units to enable consistent and easily traceable quality for our ingredients. Thanks to these state-of-the-art technologies and the recycling of 95% of its waste, Seppic minimizes its impact on the environment. Specialty ingredients for cosmetics represent a market worth over $10 billion worldwide, including $25 % in the United States. Jean-Baptiste Dellon, CEO of Seppic, said: "With this new plant, we are increasing our industrial capacity to serve our customers worldwide. This state-of-the-art plant is in line with Seppic's strategy of producing high-performance ingredients while respecting the environment. Our ambition in terms of CSR is to continue to meet our customers' needs while achieving our goal of reducing waste and energy consumption."
Monoprix is aimed at those seeking holistic, integrative beauty. The brand offers a selection of skincare products that work from the outside in, and dietary supplements that work from the inside out, "to effectively reconnect with well-being.
The Edli brand shares the richness of plants and the power of nature with as many people as possible, thanks to food supplements with high-quality plant and natural active ingredients. The products have an action on the body for daily prevention. According to Monoprix, this cosmetics line breaks down the barriers between health and beauty to bring you the best of both worlds, "the best care from within."
Demain's mission is to get back to basics with formulas that exclude ingredients suspected of being harmful to health and the environment. Demain is a committed brand, producing certified organic universal skincare products with eco-designed 100 % recyclable packaging.
Les Miraculeux is a brand that combines beauty and pleasure, thanks to its made-in-France dietary supplement cures in the form of fruity sweets. The "gummies" contain the benefits of plants in a fun, gourmet way.
The Skinfood detox brand combines superfoods and science, balancing effectiveness and naturalness. "Our skincare products use powerful active ingredients to balance oily skin. Innovative formulas have been developed to make the most of ingredients sourced directly from nature".says Monoprix.
All Garnier products worldwide are now officially approved by Cruelty Free International. The brand has been endorsed by the Leaping Bunny program of Cruelty Free International, a global organization dedicated to ending cosmetic testing on animals worldwide.
Garnier is one of the largest international brands approved by Cruelty Free International as part of the Leaping Bunny program.
"Garnier is a global brand that we all know. Working with them to declare them officially approved under the international Leaping Bunny program is a major step. It took Garnier several months to vet each supplier and achieve certification."says Michelle Thew, CEO of Cruelty Free International.
Leaping Bunny requires brands to be able to audit their entire supply chain, including each individual raw material and ingredient to verify compliance with their stringent Charter criteria. Approval must be granted to all finished products of a brand, as individual products or items cannot be approved separately.
For Garnier, it was a matter of obtaining this certification for more than 500 suppliers on over 3,000 different ingredients, worldwide. For many months, Garnier and Cruelty Free International worked together to obtain this proof and ensure that every product in Garnier's global portfolio could officially display Cruelty Free International's Leaping Bunny logo - universally recognized for fighting animal testing around the world.
"Garnier has been committed to a world without animal testing since 1989. Being officially approved by Cruelty Free International as part of the Leaping Bunny program is an important step and has always been part of our Green Beauty mission. Today, Garnier is one step closer to becoming a fully committed, sustainable, transparent brand, offering Green Beauty to all."says Adrien Koskas, Garnier's international managing director.
This announcement by Garnier marks the beginning of a historic year for the brand. In 2020, Garnier announced its Green Beauty initiative, a sustainability approach across the entire product development cycle, consisting of transforming every step of its value chain and significantly reducing its environmental impact.
The announcement comes with several sustainable innovations. Each new product embodies the brand's Green Beauty commitments, and all are now officially approved by Cruelty Free International under the Leaping Bunny program:
- Garnier SkinActive reusable makeup remover pads - Garnier Ultra Gentle Solid Shampoo - Garnier Fructis shampoo and conditioner (now in recyclable bottles made of 100 % recycled plastic).
Garnier key figures:
- 1st natural brand in the world (source: Euromonitor 2019) - Sold in 64 countries - Key objectives for 2025: - Zero virgin plastic, saving 37,000 tons of virgin plastic per year. - Carbon-neutral industrial sites, with 38,596 metric tons of CO 2 equivalent already saved thanks to the increased use of renewable energy. - 100 % of recyclable, reusable and compostable plastic packaging by 2025.
Times are changing. There was a time when consumers took cosmetics manufacturers' word for it on the qualities of their products. In 2019, the situation has deteriorated considerably and mistrust is rife. On boxes and bottles, ingredient lists are studied, deciphered and scanned. Public opinion is tossed back and forth between contradictory information to the point of creating a veritable cacophony. 6 years ago, the European Commission initiated a regulation aimed at regulating cosmetic claims, particularly those deemed disparaging (the famous "without" statements). This regulation, which has remained a dead letter, is attempting to rise from the ashes, with its implementation this July via a recommendation from the ARPP (Autorité de régulation professionnelle de la publicité) and a campaign orchestrated by the Febea (Fédération des entreprises de la beauté).
Positive communication
Fans of old cosmetics stories know that, for a long time, communication about this type of product has been positive. The Simon creamdeveloped in 1860 by a talented young pharmacist, was said to preserve "the complexion's youthful radiance" and, above all, combat "redness, tan and insect bites".
The Tokalon creamfor her part, claimed to use "Biocel", "a wonderful food for the skin". The consumer, seduced by the newly-discovered thorium and radium, but fearful when it came to using foundation ("make-up harms the health of the epidermis"), turned resolutely to the "Biocel". Tho-Radia range which seemed to have all the qualities. The claims were sometimes very optimistic (the Diadermine cream cleanses the skin morning and night and protects against sunburn), but after all, the legal framework had not yet been established. L'boric acidmixed with talcum powder, was sprinkled on babies' bottoms and fathers' cheeks... until the link between cosmetics and intoxication (and even infant death) was established - this was in the 1950s! Even though scientific studies were already pointing the finger at a number of "undesirable" ingredients, consumers at the time were lulled by the fine promises. At a time when lists of prohibited and conditionally authorized substances were not yet available (this was before the fateful date of 1972), fear was a feeling unknown to consumers, who had total confidence in the fledgling cosmetics industry.
Negative communication
From the 2000s onwards, the worm is in the fruit... published works by Philippa Darbre establishing a (hasty and poorly documented) link between deodorant and breast cancer, some cosmetics companies have decided to communicate differently. Instead of telling a good story about an ingredient they are trying to promote, they are now going to stigmatize a number of raw materials, in particular parabens. The first "paraben-free" products hit the shelves, to be joined over the years by cosmetics free of "silicone, PEG, kerosene, sulfates...".
The organic industry is rapidly settling into a communication strategy based on fear. It doesn't matter if the ingredients in question are in fact harmless, the main thing is to channel public opinion towards a segment of the industry that wants to gain market share as quickly as possible. In some cases, the anguish is so great that some women stop washing their hair and suggest homemade recipes on their blog so great is the fear of shampoo bases. Faced with this irrational fear of a certain number of ingredients, it's time to talk about cosmetophobia and to warn against a mode of communication that will lead consumers and manufacturers, in the more or less long term, into the wall!
Supervised communication
Commission Regulation (EU) No. 655/2013 of July 10, 2013, laying down common criteria that claims relating to cosmetic products must meet in order to be used, was then put in place to stem a communication that was going off the rails. The notion of "conformity with legislation", "veracity", "evidence", "fairness" and "informed choice" are thus detailed.
So you can start to breathe a sigh of relief that "no, no" cosmetics are a thing of the past. The Regulation clearly states that "claims relating to cosmetic products must be objective and may not denigrate either the competition or legally used ingredients". In practice, however, it appears that this Regulation is going completely unnoticed... to the point that ARPP has been obliged to draft an explanatory text to make the current European text easier to understand.
The V8 cosmetics recommendation (in force since 1er July 2019) therefore details the need to abandon the mention "without without;", "in order to contribute to an enhancing image of cosmetic products", using "advertising that must be essentially devoted to positive arguments" The ban on the mention "without" is relayed by Febea, which organized a radio campaign public information campaigns to publicize the ban. Not everyone agrees, and is making this known on social networks, as in the case of theCosmébio association.
The need to clean up
When cosmetic products are found to make medical claims, for example, cosmetics that claiming to promote sleepthe breathingor treat stomach aches and bloatingWe're a long way from zero-defect cosmetics communication, and we're wondering whether we're complying with European regulations on communication. There's definitely room for improvement!
Authors
Céline Couteau Senior Lecturer in Industrial Pharmacy and Cosmetology, University of Nantes, Historical authors The Conversation France
Laurence Coiffard Professor of galenics and cosmetology, University of Nantes, Historical authors The Conversation France
