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Croda receives EcoVadis Platinum status

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editocom
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site-industries-cosmetiques Two women in lab coats working in a laboratory.

Croda International Plc, using intelligent science to create, manufacture and supply life-enhancing specialty ingredients, celebrates this month the achievement of new Platinum status by EcoVadis.

This Platinum Award places Croda not only in the top 1 % of all companies in the chemical sector, but also in the top 1 % of all companies assessed by the platform. EcoVadis' rigorous methodology evaluates over 75,000 companies in 160 countries and 200 business sectors. It enables us to determine the extent to which a company has integrated sustainability/ CSR principles into its business management system and activities.

The assessment methodology is based on international sustainability standards, including the Global Reporting Initiative, the United Nations Global Compact and ISO 26000. The evidence-based methodology covers assessment on four themes: environment, labor and human rights, ethics and sustainable procurement. Croda was identified as having advanced CSR practices in three of these categories.

Commenting on the assessment, Stuart Arnott, President of Croda's Sustainability Division, said, "We've been assessed by EcoVadis for almost 10 years, achieving Gold status for the first time in 2012. Since then, we've gone from strength to strength, and we're determined to go even further, aiming for a score of at least 85/100 by 2023, and to be 'Outstanding' in all four themes by 2030. This ambition underpins our leadership position and our commitment to being the most sustainable supplier of innovative ingredients."

A dermal microtissue model to study the elastic properties of the skin in vitro

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A person wearing blue gloves holds a container of liquid.

As the skin ages, its biomechanical properties deteriorate, and in particular, its elasticity is lost, leading to sagging. The elastic fibers of the dermis are the main elements that give skin its elasticity and resilience. But over time, their organization and functionality deteriorate, making them a key target for anti-aging cosmetic strategies.

Skin substitutes developed by tissue bioengineering, readily available on the market today, remain imperfect models for studying skin elasticity. Indeed, they contain exogenous and artificial supports that bias the measurement of biomechanical properties in said tissues. The development of a suitable model for mechanically studying a tissue structure such as skin was therefore necessary.

The Gattefossé laboratories have developed a new dermal micro-tissue model that does away with the need for culture matrices, enabling the measurement of in vitro intrinsic elastic properties of the dermis. To assess the elasticity of these skin micro-tissues called spheroids, Gattefossé chose BioMeca's expertise to carry out an innovative analytical assessment using cutting-edge technologies.

"Characterizing biological models to assess the effect of active ingredients and cosmetic products on restoring and maintaining skin homeostasis is essential today. BioMeca offers cutting-edge technologies to meet the challenges of cutaneous biology. Under quasi-physiological conditions and over time, second harmonic microscopy highlights and images fibrous networks, while atomic force microscopy assesses tissue rigidity. Topographical and mechanical studies, quantification and nanomechanical characterization of tissues: BioMeca's expertise is a key to exploring the elastic properties of skin models, and opens the door to a better understanding of skin biomechanics".emphasizes Julien Chlasta, co-founder and President of BioMeca.

Spheroid culture has the advantage of using the cells' ability to secrete their own extracellular matrix, to produce in vitro their own tissue microenvironment. This technology has enabled Gattefossé to produce in vitro hundreds of microtissues in just a few days, from dermal fibroblasts grown in plates with very low cell adhesion. The elastic modulus (or Young's modulus) was then quantified by atomic force microscopy (AFM), and the elastic fibers visualized by second harmonic generation (SHG) microscopy. Gattefossé and BioMeca have thus demonstrated the reliability and relevance of this micro-tissue model, whose complex organization forms a dense network of mature elastic fibers sufficiently extensive to model in vitro dermal elastic mechanics.

The development of the spheroid microtissue model was presented at the 31st IFSCC congress in Yokohama at the end of 2020.

"By combining two state-of-the-art analytical techniques, second harmonic generation (SHG) microscopy and atomic force microscopy (AFM), we accurately correlated the presence and quantity of elastic fibers with the elastic properties of the microtissues, demonstrating that the newly formed elastic fibers were functional."said Dr. Nicolas Bechetoille, Head of Cutaneous Biology Research at Gattefossé.

This skin micro-tissue model was used to measure the efficacy of EleVastin, the new cosmetic active ingredient developed by Gattefossé, fighting skin slackening, which will be launched in April 2021.

Cosfibel is getting excited about e-commerce

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editocom
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site-industries-cosmetiques A box with toothbrush, toothpaste and toothbrush.

Thanks to its range of expertise, from gift sets to accessories, the Cosfibel group is positioned on e-commerce markets with a competitive and eco-responsible global offering.

In a context where e-commerce is literally exploding, dematerialized purchasing requires new codes. As the volumes involved are considerable, this type of packaging requires careful cost calculation, but not only that. Cosfibel meets this challenge with a global offer that is also attentive to the customer experience.

Six story lines

With its expertise in boxes, cases, luggage and accessories, Cosfibel considers the e-commerce offer as a whole, adding to the primary function of packaging a notion of pleasure linked to product discovery and use. To this end, the group has created six story-driven lines. Each includes a primary package designed to receive the product, the corrugated cardboard shipper delivered flat, then the necessary accessories such as tissue paper, ribbon, printing card, stickers, etc. Added to this is a choice of accessories selected for their functionality, attractiveness and competitive price. A velvet pouch for re-use, a decorated spatula to accompany a cream, a make-up brush, a massage glove or even a pretty nail file are all designed to enrich the beauty routine and seduce the recipient. According to Cosfibel, "This gesture gives the brand undeniable goodwill.

When packaging becomes a marketing tool

With this e-commerce collection of six families, Cosfibel aims to support brands in their sales strategies by enabling them to compose on a "mix and match" basis. In this way, Cosfibel is involved in the entire chain, from pack design to packaging, providing total full service.

Symrise signs Matcha Meditation for Maison Margiela

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editocom
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Head: green tea, bergamot; heart: matcha, orange blossom, jasmine; base: Siam benzoin, moss accord: Matcha Meditation is a composition created by Alexandra Carlin and Maurice Roucel, perfumers at Symrise for Maison Margiela.

"Inspired by a meditation session on a bright, beautiful afternoon, enjoying a cup of traditional Japanese matcha tea, Matcha Meditation is an invitation to focus on the present moment, enjoy every gesture and awaken the senses."says Symrise.

Created by Alexandra Carlin and Maurice Roucel, this fragrance evokes the feeling of complicity between body and mind experienced after a yoga session. An emblematic ingredient of the Japanese tea ceremony, matcha is the only tea where the whole leaf is consumed, multiplying the benefits of green tea.

"Matcha tea, especially Gyokuro, is also known as Meditation Tea, for a moment of calm and pleasure. Matcha tea undeniably has soothing virtues. It's a magical ingredient that reduces stress levels and promotes serenity and concentration".points out Maurice Roucel.

"The scent of orange blossom is associated with bliss and childhood in many cultures. We used the precious absolute, which has a sensual, honeyed scent. Natural sandalwood smells like warm, soft bread to me, and vanilla is universally associated with sweetness."explains Alexandra Carlin.

The result is a multi-faceted fragrance, with "incredible" tones according to its designers, surprising colors and a comforting touch. Alexandra Carlin and Maurice Roucel wanted to create an elegant freshness around beautiful citrus and floral tea, highlighted by the luminous green note of matcha. Behind the balms, blond woods and white musks enhance the creamy facet of matcha.

Like an air of spring : VPI sublimates the new feminine perfume Girl by Rochas

By
The editorial staff
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Rochas (Interparfums) has chosen VPI (Faiveley Plast Beauty), a French specialist in the injection and decoration of aesthetic plastic parts, to produce the cap for Girl de Rochas.

A new-generation fragrance

Launching in France in March 2021, Girl de Rochas pays tribute to women and is fully in line with the expectations of today's consumers, who are increasingly looking for environmentally-friendly creations.

Interparfums wanted to sublimate the cap of this brand-new feminine fragrance with a light, matte hue in the spirit of the minimalist bottle design.

The smooth cylindrical cap made from partially recycled plastic is composed of biobased PP on the inside, and recycled PET and mineral-filled biobased PP on the outside. VPI thus guarantees a minimum of 42 % of recycled and biosourced material by weight in the product. These combinations of materials have made it possible to achieve and maintain the same pastel green color of the bottle.

"Environmentally-friendly actions are firmly anchored in our company policy. It is in response to our customers' requests and to support them in their CSR strategy and approach that we have developed this plug".says Marc Beltrami, VPI Sales Director.

This elegant, sober cap, a real technical challenge, is the fruit of close collaboration between the Interparfums and VPI teams, in line with an eco-design approach. It covers the three sizes developed by Rochas: 40, 60 and 100ml.

Laboratoires Expanscience launch a virgin organic avocado oil, a new 100 % active ingredient made in Peru

By
The editorial staff
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Committed to transparency and traceability thanks to its own supply chain in Peru, Laboratoires Expanscience has made avocado a product of excellence for over 30 years.

An oil with emollient and nourishing properties

Certified 100% organic by Ecocert Greenlife - according to the Cosmos (COSMetic Organic Standard) - this new organic virgin avocado oil is obtained by a cold-pressing method from the whole avocado: 100 % of the fruit is recovered, as the skin, pulp and stone are sliced, dehydrated and then pressed.

This exclusive physical process, patented by Expanscience, is in line with the laboratory's eco-design approach, and enables the oil to retain all the molecular richness of the avocado to nourish, protect the skin and add shine to the hair.

Controlling supply and the avocado supply chain in Peru

Considered a true product of excellence by Expanscience, the avocado, sourced at 100 % in Peru, is fully valorized in this new 100 % made in Peru guaranteed-origin virgin and organic oil.

The oil is produced directly at Expanscience's Deshidratados Tropicales plant in Lima.

Expanscience acquired the company in 2016 to secure supplies, be closer to growers and reduce the carbon impact of transporting fruit.

This transparent approach, from the sourcing of raw materials to the marketing of finished products, meets the increasingly demanding requirements of consumers in the cosmetics market.

"Science & conscience, naturally" is the philosophy of Expanscience's Cosmetic Active Ingredients business. With 40 years' experience in the field of plant raw materials, Laboratoires Expanscience develops innovative, high-quality natural cosmetic actives with respect for mankind and his environment, thanks to expertise in lipochemistry, molecular distillation and plant extraction. This responsible approach is recognized by Expanscience's B Corp certification since 2018 and by the UEBT (Union for Ethical BioTrade), of which the company has been a member since 2011.

Expanscience stands out in the active cosmetics market thanks to its pharmaceutical culture, which translates into a recognized commitment to the reliability and efficacy of active ingredients, as well as to the scientific rigor with which they are developed and manufactured.

Texen Beauty Partners plays the technical expertise of the eyeliner

By
The editorial staff
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For its two new make-up products, Texen Beauty Partners has put all its expertise at the service of the specific make-up gesture required by eyeliner. The project management team focused its ambition on the design and ergonomics of the pack, but also on an optimal combination of the different parts.

Brand new on the market, these two models owe their success to the choice of a carefully developed pack. The first one is the new Yves-Rocher eyeliner, the second is signed Dr Pierre Ricaud. In order to meet the brand's expectations, Texen Beauty Partners has carried out a major sourcing effort for the choice of the applicator and the wiper.

They are both designed in three parts: the cap, mainly injected in ABS, including the stem and the applicator, the wringer (LDPE + POE) and the bottle (PE). The printing is done with hot stamping on both sides.

For the beauty of the gesture

They are distinguished by their beautiful curves and perfect ergonomics. Their long stems make for an ideal grip and an intuitive gesture. Equipped with a felt tip, they guarantee a precise and flexible application for a personalized make-up result.

The capacity of these eyeliners is 3 ml.

TechnicoFlor bets on Africa

By
The editorial staff
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The French compounding house TechnicoFlor announces its merger with Azelis, one of the world leaders in the distribution of ingredients, fragrances and food flavors, to conquer the perfumery, cosmetics and hygiene sector in Africa. A market estimated at 12 billion dollars.

TechnicoFlor is a group specialized in the creation of perfumed compositions, plant extracts, aromatic raw materials and food flavors. For 40 years, TechnicoFlor has been supplying the biggest names in perfumery, cosmetics and hygiene. Its creations are used in numerous applications throughout the world: perfumes, skincare & cosmetics, hygiene products (shower gels, deodorants, shampoos, hair styling products), home fragrances and cleaning products (detergents, softeners, cleaners, etc.). The group has been present on the African market for 30 years, particularly in North Africa and Egypt, and is now strengthening its presence on this promising continent.

With 1.4 billion people with a median age of less than 20 years, Africa is indeed one of the most dynamic continents in the world in terms of growth. The demand for cosmetic and personal care products represents a $12 billion market, growing at an average of 10 % per year since 2017 while the global industry average is less than 5 %.

A stronger presence in nine African countries

To support its development, TechnicoFlor has chosen Azelis, a leader for 25 years in the distribution of ingredients, fragrances and food flavors in more than 50 countries around the world, for its technical expertise and its knowledge of specific markets; a player combining international scope and local roots with which TechnicoFlor has been working since January 2021, particularly in Saudi Arabia, Lebanon, and Jordan

This new partnership will allow TechnicoFlor to position itself in nine African countries: Algeria, Morocco, Tunisia, Ivory Coast, Kenya, Ghana, Senegal, South Africa and Nigeria. "TechnicoFlor's objective is to offer international manufacturers and local players present in Africa, creations for selective perfumery and more functional perfumery, as well as storage solutions on site thanks to our partner's infrastructure.explains Christopher Sabater, Director for the Middle East and Africa at TechnicoFlor.

A continent fond of greedy and fruity notes

"In terms of olfactory trends, although each country on the continent has its own particularities, general trends stand out: in selective perfumery, gourmand and red fruit notes are the most popular; in cosmetics, aloe vera and avocado are sought after, particularly for their nourishing properties; finally, in the cleaning and detergent products segment, the so-called "medicated" lemon notes (eucalyptus, pine, etc.) are the most popular.says Romain Ferrier, Africa Zone Manager at TechnicoFlor. This will challenge the group's eight perfumers in their creativity.

This new partnership strengthens TechnicoFlor's international influence. Already established in Marseille, Paris, Moscow, Dubai, Singapore, Jakarta, Bangkok, Shanghai and Beauteville China, the group, which distributes its fragrances in more than 70 countries in Europe, Asia, the Middle East and Africa, aims to generate 15 % of its turnover in Africa with the opening of these new markets, compared to the current 2.4 %.

In parallel to this development, TechnicoFlor is preparing the opening, in May 2021, of its new production center in the north-east of Marseille: a highly technological factory of 5,000 m² that will allow the group to produce its fragrance compositions in only four days and to supply its customers in record time.

The science of skin care

By
The editorial staff
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Craith Lab's new epigenetic skin care line uses Quadpack's airless packaging technology to optimize beauty care

Belgium-based skincare brand Craith Lab was launched in 2019 with a clear premise: to use epigenetic science to benefit cosmetics. Since then, the brand has developed three skin care lines and collaborates with beauty packaging manufacturer and distributor Quadpack to ensure its cutting-edge formulas are packaged using the latest airless technologies.

Considered by many to be one of the "next big things" in skin care, epigenetic studies analyze the impact of our lifestyle on our genes. They take an in-depth look at how our DNA and RNA respond to external factors such as pollution, diet and stress and play a critical role in skin health and aging. Craith Lab translates these discoveries into science-based skin care solutions. "Our philosophy is to protect and heal the skin cells - this is the real key to rejuvenation.says Peter Smeels, CEO of Craith Lab.

The brand has partnered with Quadpack to package its three product lines, developed for customers of different ages and lifestyles:

  • Blue Line: focused on young and sensitive skin, it is enriched with probiotics and helps to solve the problems associated with younger skin.
  • Black Line: its Epi-Powershield3 formula detoxifies the skin while helping to reduce the aging process of the cells.
  • Gold Line: Its EpiTech formula is based on epigenetic technology for rejuvenation.

To ensure the best performance and protection of the formula, Craith Lab has chosen the Regula Airless Jar in 50 ml and the Regula Airless in 30 ml and 50 ml. "We wanted to apply the high quality standards of our formulas to the packaging. Regula Airless is a key element in preserving the stability and performance of the formula and it is made in Europe, which is an added value."adds Peter Smeels. Designed and produced in Germany by Louvrette, a Quadpack company, the Regula Airless range uses a patented system to achieve the benefits of airless technology in different packaging formats.

Craith Lab products are available in European retail outlets and trade shows, as well as on the Beauty App online platform.

Silab quadruples its annual biotech production capacity

By
The editorial staff
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Silab, a specialist in the engineering of natural active ingredients, is commissioning a second production line for single-cell organisms at its unique site within its Unité de Production par Biotechnologies (UPB), inaugurated in 2015.

Given the success of its natural active ingredients derived from micro-organisms, Silab has decided to build a second production line for large-scale cultivation of yeast, microalgae and bacteria. Entirely independent, it comprises a main 15,000 L bioreactor, enabling the company to quadruple its annual production of these high value-added natural raw materials used in the manufacture of its active ingredients.

In fact, these micro-organisms represent a powerful lever for innovation, as Brigitte Closs-Gonthier, Deputy Managing Director, Innovation, Silab, points out: "They offer immense potential, not only because of their diversity, but also because of their incredible metabolism. With this new line, Silab is giving itself the means not only to further diversify its production of microorganisms, but also to master their fascinating properties in order to open up access to unique molecules of interest."

Bringing the manufacture of single-cell organisms in-house is also a key strategic focus, in line with the company's widely-claimed value of independence, as Xavier Gaillard, Deputy Managing Director Strategy, Silab, explains: "This 5 million euro capacity investment is part of a wider 30 million euro investment program that has been carried out over three years. It was motivated by our desire to offer the cosmetics and dermo-cosmetics markets ever more innovative solutions, while meeting today's major challenges of securing, tracing and sustaining supplies."

Thanks to this new automated production facility, which, like the others on the site, offers excellent ergonomics for technicians, Silab intends to increase its share of natural active ingredients derived from micro-organisms, which currently account for 20 % of its catalog.

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