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Wauters, winner of the PM'up competition

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The editorial staff
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Winner of the PM'up competition for the second time, Wauters, a specialist in packaging for perfumery, cosmetics and spirits, joins the select circle of companies with high development prospects recognized by the Paris Region. This institutional support, which fewer than 1,500 companies have received in almost 10 years, will enable Wauters to accelerate its growth over the next three years.

After being selected and then audited, the Île-de-France Region jury validated the development project presented by Wauters on the basis of the following criteria:

  • business viability
  • strategy relevance
  • job creation potential
  • international development potential
  • the project's contribution to development in the Paris region
  • respect for environmental and social issues

Innovation rewarded

For over a century, Wauters has been innovating in a pioneering spirit, placing its development strategy at the heart of its ecosystem, taking into account people, production facilities and the environment.

"The project presented by Wauters responds to a dual desire to combine the performance of our industrial facilities with the challenges of corporate social responsibility. Innovation is essential if we are to keep pace with market needs and remain creative and competitive in the field of high quality. Investment accompanies our transformation, from our equipment to our development, including the pursuit of our digitalization. We are proud today to be supported by the Île-de-France region, and to be developing a promising project that will help stimulate the local economic fabric.the company says.

Wauters is a member of "Powered By Paris Region", the network of strategic and innovative companies created by the Paris Region.

Superga Beauty continues its expansion and sets up in India

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The editorial staff
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Superga Beauty, a subsidiary of the Superga Invest Group serving leading luxury and beauty brands for over 20 years, announces the opening in March 2021 of an Indian subsidiary in New Delhi. 

This strategic move, aimed at a fast-changing market, will enable Superga Beauty to establish new business opportunities and extend its reach in terms of sourcing, one of the priorities of the Full Service and Promotion business.

Superga Beauty India is committed to a 100 % Fair Trade approach with its suppliers, who in turn respect the same fair trade commitments with their entire Supply Chain.

Fair trade principles enable manufacturers to make a commitment against poverty by guaranteeing minimum prices to producers and a decent standard of living for them and their families, without being governed by the laws of competition.

"India has become a choice alternative to China. The opening of Superga Beauty India marks a new stage in the group's international development".says Leslie Bréau Meniger, President of Superga Beauty. Based in New Delhi for the past two years, Nathalie Dickeli, Managing Director/CEO of Superga Beauty, heads up the Superga Beauty India subsidiary.

Firmenich uses the link between fragrance and context to deliver emotional benefits

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The editorial staff
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Firmenich's scientific research has established that taking into account the consumer's context is the key to providing more emotional benefits to fragrances. After years of peer-reviewed research and publications, Firmenich demonstrates that its verbalized emotion approach through a unique Firmenich scent-emotion scale and implicit testing results in unique, emotionally powerful fragrances for consumers.

"The same scent will not evoke the same emotion in all consumers. For example, the smell of durian is synonymous with energy and well-being in China, but it is not appreciated in the US, explains Ilaria Resta, President, Global Perfumery. Through our scientific research, we can help our clients enhance the emotional impact of their products, with solutions tailored to each country's cultural context as well as product category preferences."

"Seventy percent of consumers' daily decisions are based on their emotions(*)explains Dr Christelle Porcherot, Corporate R&D Principal Scientist. While smells trigger strong emotions, these emotions also depend on personal life experiences and the context in which the smells are smelled." 

Using neuroscience, Firmenich researchers are able to understand the transformation of molecular signals into smells and memories. The Firmenich ScentMove emotion assessment model highlights nine emotional dimensions that encompass 25 commonly used qualifiers, far beyond the simple feeling of "pleasant". The fMRI observation of brain responses of individuals subjected to different fragrances has validated specific brain patterns corresponding to distinct emotional profiles. However, to develop relevant solutions, Firmenich also takes into account learning and memory. Cultural background, life experiences and commonly encountered scents shape the emotions felt, as our brain adapts to environmental changes.

"Emotional response can partly be observed by physiological measurements and brain recordings such as fMRI. However, only the verbalization of the feelings experienced provides a good understanding of the quality of the emotions provided by a fragrance, says Dr Christian Margot, Distinguished Scientist and Director, Corporate Research & Development. This allows us to connect a felt emotion to its context."

Firmenich was founded 125 years ago by a brilliant entrepreneur and chemist, with scientific research at the heart of its business from the start. The company invests an average of 10 % of its annual turnover in R&D. Using a multi-disciplinary approach, chemists, biologists, physicists and researchers make groundbreaking discoveries that continue to shape the fragrance and flavor industry: from the development of complex olfactive ingredients inspired by nature, to innovative delivery systems and formulations driven by artificial intelligence. At Firmenich, data and consumer insights are at the heart of fragrance creation, design and innovation, resulting in more fragrance benefits for both its customers and consumers worldwide.

Learn more about the work of Firmenich scientists on the sense of smell: https://www.firmenich.com/company/research/understanding-taste-smell

(*) Gallup, June 2020

Tereos obtains the first certification in France for organic beet alcohol production

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The editorial staff
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A forerunner in the production of French organic beet sugar, the Tereos cooperative group is extending its range with the production of organic beet alcohol, which has just been awarded Cosmos certification for the first time in France.

Produced in November 2020 at the Tereos sugar-distillery in Artenay (Loiret), this alcohol is derived from organic beet processed at the Attin sugar refinery (Pas-de-Calais). This first French production of organic alcohol opens up new development opportunities for Tereos customers in the perfume and cosmetics sectors.

This organic alcohol production is part of a more global strategy to develop organic activity within Tereos. After a successful first campaign in 2019, Tereos has increased the area sown with organic beet in 2020 from 200 to 500 hectares. The number of partner farmers has doubled, with over 60 committed growers.

Artenay, at the heart of Cosmetic Valley

The Artenay site is strategically located at the heart of the Centre Val-de-Loire region's "Cosmetic Valley", 1er global resource center for cosmetics and fragrances.

A flagship industrial activity, this regional sector boasts the world's leading players, representing over 150 establishments and 10,800 jobs, including nearly 80 % in Eure-et-Loir and Loiret.

The organic market: steady growth

In recent years, the organic sector has enjoyed steady, sustained growth. Consumption of organic non-food products is now a must for the vast majority of French people.

image004- Ingredients - Product info

In the organic non-food market, organic cosmetics and personal care products have seen the strongest sales growth, up 16 points in two years (Source: Agence Bio February 2020).

Photo: Tereos sugar-distillery in Artenay (Loiret) Michel Blossier for Tereos

Seqens Cosmetics launches a new range of ingredients

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques Seqens Cosmetics launches a new range of cosmetic ingredients.

With over 50 years' experience, Seqens Cosmetics is a European reference for the development of tailor-made ingredients and solutions for the most demanding industries such as cosmetics and perfumery. 

"With our long-standing expertise in the manufacture of key, complex cosmetic ingredients and intermediates, we offer our customers a unique continuum of expertise, accompanying them from the earliest stages of research and development right through to the industrialization of their products".the company says.

Backed by solid organic chemistry skills and specific industrial equipment, Seqens Cosmetics has built up the AdvensCare range, made up of ingredients and intermediates carefully selected for their value in cosmetic formulations and fragrances.

With AdvensCare, Seqens strengthens its support for cosmetics companies in the development and formulation of functional ingredients, actives and fragrances. The AdvensCare range covers a wide range of applications, from preservatives, emollients and emulsifiers to active ingredients, and involves the use of perfectly mastered technologies such as acid chlorides, acids and esters.

All AdvensCare ingredients are manufactured in France at Ecovadis Gold-certified sites, and are available in high levels of purity.

The AdvensCare range is made up of four ingredients: 

  • AdvensCare BZC is a crystalline quaternary ammonium salt, available as a pure, odorless, white to whitish fine powder. Mainly used as a fast-acting preservative in personal care and hygiene products, it is highly effective at low concentrations against a wide variety of micro-organisms. The recommended use rate for AdvensCare BZC in skin care cosmetics is 0.1 % in rinse-off and leave-on products in Europe and China, 0.5 % in the USA, and 0.5 % in rinse-off and 0.2 % in leave-on products in Japan. Soluble in water, alcohols, ketones and glycols, AdvensCare BZC can be easily formulated in solid or liquid form (soaps, shampoos, skin care creams...).
  • AdvensCare UDC is a colorless liquid used as a key raw material for the synthesis of a wide variety of cosmetic ingredients, including anti-dandruffs, anti-statics, emulsifiers, actives; where it is found bound to hydrolyzed collagen, alginate, hydrolyzed corn, soy or wheat protein... Available at a minimum purity of 98 %, AdvensCare UDC is oil-soluble and can easily be used to functionalize water-soluble ingredients (such as amino acids, peptides and proteins) to improve their formulability, skin penetration and bioavailability. 
  • AdvensCare DEA is a colorless liquid used as a masking agent in skincare products and fragrances, reducing or inhibiting base odor, and as an ingredient with a fruity olfactory profile in perfumes. It is also used as an emollient in a variety of skin-conditioning products, acting as a lubricant on the skin's surface, giving the skin a soft, smooth appearance.
  • AdvensCare UDA, a white crystalline powder, is a versatile ingredient with multiple functions for skin care products as a cleansing agent, emulsifier and masking agent. Its fatty acid derivative, ethyl decanoate, obtained by esterification, is used in the flavor and fragrance industry to provide a creamy or coconut scent. 

"Our expertise in the manufacture of specialty ingredients for the cosmetics and perfumery industries extends beyond the AdvensCare range. The main organic synthesis reactions for the cosmetics industry such as esterification, hydrogenation, halogenation, polymerization and alkylation are routinely carried out in our plants and can be made available for the quality manufacture of your strategic ingredients."emphasizes Seqens.

Texen partners with pianist and composer Laurent Assoulen's first perfume brand

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetiques A perfume bottle with a black box next to it, in partnership with Laurent Assoulen's first perfume brand.

Laurent Assoulen has been working on this project for two years. A jazz pianist and perfume expert, he studied the links between musical and perfume composition, creating the perfume concert a few years ago. He then turned his attention to the links between perfume and philosophy, an olfactory expression of our relationship with ourselves and our existence. He created the "Parfums de Nietzsche" house, whose first opus is "Surhomme". These two mixed fragrances, in two separate bottles supported by a steel "N", can be used as you wish, together or separately, horizontally or vertically. The result of a collaborative project is this collector's item.

A "N"stainless steel as centerpiece 

Texen Beauty Partners acted as a sponsor of this project, collaborating with peers such as Aptar, Heinz Glass and Wauters. Texen Beauty Partners managed the development of the "N"-shaped metal part that supports the two 25-ml bottles: design, technical study, mock-ups, right through to manufacturing in Asia.

The Nietzsche "N" is made of Stainless Steel, bent and polished by hand. It is laser-engraved with the "Parfums de Nietzsche Paris".

Demonstrating its expertise in metal, Texen Beauty Partners is making its mark in the niche fragrance market. It affirms its desire to contribute to the promotion of exciting and committed initiatives, such as that of Laurent Assoulen.

Quadpack covets the Chinese market with Yuga

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetiques Two men standing next to each other at Quadpack's event targeting the Chinese market with Yuga.

The growth of the Chinese cosmetics industry has prompted Quadpack, an international manufacturer and supplier of packaging for beauty products, to begin its commercial entry into the national market. An agreement with Yuga, a long-term partner based near Shanghai, will enable Quadpack to offer its QLine range to brands seeking the quality, performance and distinction of "Made in Europe" products. 

The move into China is part of Quadpack's 2020-2025 business strategy, which includes growth plans in each of its key territories in EMEA, the Americas and Asia Pacific. It follows last year's opening of a sales office in Japan and the appointment of Raj Savji as Managing Director - Asia Pacific to develop Quadpack's presence in the region.

"The Chinese beauty products market is worth 52.5 billion euros and growing fast. What's more, it has proved incredibly resilient. Since the COVID-19 epidemic and the resulting economic crisis, China is the first country to show a recovery. The market is ripe and our products are perfectly suited to it. We are fortunate to have been able to establish a partnership with Yuga - a relationship based on high levels of trust, shared values and proven results - to accelerate our market entry," explains Savji.

Beauty packaging manufacturer Yuga has been a Quadpack supply partner since 2010, producing a number of QLine references, as well as specific projects. Today, Yuga's sales team sells products from the QLine portfolio in its local market, starting with skincare and make-up ranges, and solutions in wood and Sulapac, an environmentally-friendly organic composite material. 

The QLine range offers intelligent, modular packaging solutions from the Quadpack portfolio, and is created, designed and developed in Europe. Products are manufactured at the Louvrette plant in Germany and Quadpack Wood in Spain, as well as at the sites of selected regional partners such as Yuga. Yuga's industrial capacity will enable components to be stored, assembled and finished locally. The resulting manufacturing and supply flexibility enables Quadpack to remain agile and provide solutions in and for the region.                            

According to Victor Wu, Yuga's Managing Director: "This is a case of one plus one being much more than two. Just as Quadpack has extended our reach internationally, our factories can support Quadpack's growth. We have 20 years' experience and a strong network in China, and are keen to introduce the QLine portfolio to local brands. Leading brands are looking internationally for top-quality packaging solutions, particularly in the skincare segment. Products from Europe are in high demand. 

Yuga has begun promoting the QLine range for make-up products, and will expand to include skincare products in April.

SantEnergy: boosting hair follicles

By
The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A close-up of a white flower.
Yerba santa (Eriodictyon californicum) in bloom, Stebbins Cold Canyon, Napa Valley, California

Mibelle Biochemistry communicates on a new launch. SantEnergy is a polyphenol-rich extract derived from the aerial parts of the Yerba Santa plant and harvested in a sustainable manner. Known as "mountain balm" and "sacred herb", Yerba Santa (Eriodictyon californicum) belongs to the Borage family (Boraginaceae) and is native to the Pacific coast of North America, specifically California. 

"SantEnergy protects the hair from internal and external aggressions, delays the aging of the hair follicle and increases hair growth and density. The hair is fuller and stronger.says Mibelle Biochemistry.

According to Mibelle Biochemistry, the benefits of SantEnergy are: 

- Energizes hair follicles with a "caffeine-like" effect,
- Protects hair follicles against oxidative stress,
- Delays the aging of hair follicles,
- Increases hair growth and density.

Lipscanner, the first color reader from Chanel

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetiques A woman with lipstick on her face using Lipscanner, Chanel's first color reader.

Chanel presents Lipscanner, the new-generation make-up application for lips. A brand-new color reader, developed by 100 % Maison, Lipscanner instantly finds Chanel lipstick based on inspiring shades and visuals. In just two clicks, Lipscanner recognizes the identified color, suggests its Chanel interpretation from the Maison's product catalog and enables instant fitting on the lips thanks to virtual make-up.

Flash, scan. Find your red!

A friend's lips. The Net. Social networks. A magazine. The street. A poster. A garment. An object. Color inspiration knows no bounds. Scan the desired color and Lipscanner suggests the closest Chanel lipstick shade. And if the inspiration is a face, Lipscanner also identifies the more or less matte or glossy texture. A world first exclusive to the brand, it relies on a dual mastery of the colors and textures of the House's lip universe and of artificial intelligence, by applying machine learning to make-up.

The Lipscanner recognition engine compares the scanned color in real time with Chanel's entire range of lip products to find the product you're looking for. An intuitive application, quick and easy to use.

The app's Virtual Try On function takes over to test the identified Chanel make-up product on the lips, for the time of a selfie to keep or share.

More than just a virtual make-up experience, Lipscanner offers the possibility of turning the trial into reality by spontaneously proposing a link to your favorite shade on chanel.com.

An original Chanel creation

The first color reader developed by Chanel, Lipscanner is the result of several months' collaboration between the CX Lab* and Chanel's Studio de Création Maquillage. Several months to design an exclusive algorithm and train it to develop analysis capacity on tens of thousands of facial images. The training is ongoing, and will be gradually integrated into future Chanel lip product launches.

Over 400 lip products

Natural, pink, orange, red and plum... 5 color families, each declined in as many gloss, glossy, metallic, satin and matte textures! Chanel's Make-up Creation Studio has perfected each existing color and texture to virtualize over 400 Chanel lip products, all accessible for immediate virtual fitting.

CDP: B score for Unipex, the highest score in its category 

By
The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A jar of cream with a lid on a white background, achieving the best score in its category.

Unipex, a distributor of specialty ingredients for the pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, chemical, cosmetics and food-nutrition industries, has announced that the CDP (Carbon Disclosure Project) has awarded it a B score for its actions on climate change, a score higher than the European average and above the average for companies in its category, whose averages are C.

The CDP is a non-profit organization that encourages companies to publish their environmental data, and assesses their sustainability performance and transparency efforts. 

In total, in 2020, over 9,600 companies shared their data on environmental impacts, risks and opportunities via CDP questionnaires.

"We would like to thank all our suppliers and partners for their efforts to reduce CO2 emissions and for sharing their data. Thank you also for their reduction targets, which have enabled us to achieve this score!"comments Clémentine Allié, CSR Manager at Unipex.

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