The FEBEA regrets the approximate and anxiety-provoking methodology used by 60 Millions de consommateurs in its latest special issue on cosmetics.

The Fédération des Entreprises de la Beauté (FEBEA), which represents cosmetics companies, would like to respond to the special issue on cosmetics published by 60 Millions de Consommateurs, which claims to be able to list the "safest" products.
For FEBEA President Patrick O'Quin: "It's perfectly legitimate for consumer associations to want to decipher and/or test consumer products, such as cosmetics. However, once again, the aim here is not so much to inform as to worry the consumer with illegible, anxiety-provoking ratings. Moreover, at no point is the effectiveness of a product taken into account. This doesn't seem to me to be the right method.

● The world's safest regulations

In particular, the article states that "less than a third of toxic-free products is still too few", implying that two-thirds of the products tested contained "toxic" ingredients. In this respect, the FEBEA points out that all cosmetics sold in France comply with European cosmetics regulations, which are the strictest in the world. All the substances singled out by 60 Millions de Consommateurs are therefore authorized by the regulations and by the health authorities, who regularly re-evaluate them, even more so when their harmlessness is potentially called into question, as the magazine itself acknowledges.

● An approximate methodology that does not really allow relevant conclusions to be drawn

The special issue published by 60 Millions de consommateurs itself acknowledges several limitations to its exercise: "To assess the risk of using a cosmetic, we would need to know the exact concentration of the substances it contains. However, the list of ingredients gives only their nature, in descending order of concentration. This would also mean taking into account exposure not only to the cosmetic under evaluation, but also to other consumer products (cleaning products, clothing, food) containing the same substances". It's hard to accurately assess the impact of a substance under these conditions...

Similarly, the magazine itself sometimes limits the scope of its criticism, for example with regard to allergens: "even if their presence in a cosmetic does not mean that the consumer will necessarily develop an allergy. Approximately 3 % of the population would be sensitive to fragrance allergens." So, is it appropriate to describe as "toxic" products that would only be disadvantageous for people who are allergic, sensitized and therefore vigilant about the composition of the products they use?

● Cosmetics companies mobilize for greater transparency

In response to consumers' legitimate need for transparency on cosmetic products, in mid-November FEBEA launched CLAIRE, an application for deciphering ingredients.
Developed with the Société Française de Cosmétologie, CLAIRE provides information on over 25,000 ingredients found in cosmetic products. Aimed primarily at industry professionals (such as sales advisors), it is also available to consumers, to help them make a free and informed choice. More information on CLAIRE

Patrick O'Quin concludes: "Cosmetics companies are constantly seeking to improve their formulations to guarantee both the efficacy and safety of their products. They are also committed to transparency, so that consumers can make informed product choices. Finally, they are based on strict regulations, laid down and monitored by the French and European health authorities, in whom it is essential to have complete confidence.

 Croda International Plc, the name behind the high-performance ingredients and technologies that industries and consumers around the world rely on, is very proud to announce a new collaborative partnership with Anomera. Anomera is an award-winning innovator in green chemistry, materials science and sustainable manufacturing. Croda becomes the exclusive distributor of Anomera materials for the cosmetics market. In addition to exclusive distribution, the partners will develop unique and innovative multifunctional ingredients to meet the needs of the beauty market.
Anomera is an innovative Canadian company based in Quebec, specializing in the development of high-quality carboxylated cellulose nanocrystals, converted into micron-sized powder. "We looked at the world of cosmetics companies and found Croda to be the ideal candidate for Anomera," said Howard Fields, CEO and President of Anomera. "Croda is a leader in sustainable and ethical ingredients and best aligns with Anomera's vision to redefine the cellulose of tomorrow." 

In the coming months, Croda will take the first step in the partnership by introducing the ChromaPur range to the cosmetics market. This new category of natural cellulose powders is based on an environmentally-friendly process using black spruce pulp sustainably harvested from Canadian forests.
Croda is committed to providing new ingredients that respect the environment. By integrating the United Nations' Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) into their mission, Croda will create, develop and deliver solutions to some of the greatest challenges facing the world today. In addition, Croda is committed to making a positive impact for climate, earth and people by 2030. Anomera's philosophy and technology are perfectly aligned with these goals, and the two companies are delighted to combine their knowledge and passion to offer concrete solutions to the cosmetics industry. 

Jennifer Hart, Managing Director of Croda's Beauty Effects business unit, said: "At Croda, we're passionate about using 'science for a better life'. The technology in this case is doubly smart: smart in what it does, in terms of the effects consumers look for in their beauty products; and smart in what it is: natural chemistry from renewable resources, produced using environmentally friendly processes. We look forward to sharing this technology with our customers in 2021." 

To provide clear, precise and verified answers to consumers' questions about cosmetic ingredients, the French Federation of Beauty Companies (FEBEA) is launching the CLAIRE mobile application. Developed with the French Society of Cosmetology (SFC), CLAIRE offers information on more than 25,000 ingredients found in cosmetic products.
Intended primarily for professionals in the sector (such as sales consultants), it is also offered to consumers, to enable them to make a free and informed choice.

By simply scanning the list of ingredients/INCI of any cosmetic product or by typing the first letters of the desired ingredient in the search engine, the user can find out its scientific name vs. the Latin name often indicated in the lists, its function in a formula, its origin (natural or synthetic) and its toxicological data whether it is controversial or not.
The data sheets provided by CLAIRE are developed and validated by scientific experts and toxicologists, specialists in cosmetic ingredients, based on the evaluations of regulatory authorities. Updates are made on a regular basis according to the flow of directives.

CLAIRE does not give notes

Unlike other applications, notably YUKA, CLAIRE is not intended to evaluate a product.
"We just want the consumer to understand and make an informed choice. explains Valérie Colin, Director of Scientific and Regulatory Affairs at FEBEA.

"The cosmetics sector, which is one of the most regulated in the world, has been among the pioneers in terms of information and transparency for informed consumer choice "comments Patrick O'Quin, President of the FEBEA. "Today, we are even more committed to this approach with the development of this application. This represents a huge amount of work for us, since the list of 25,000 ingredients decoded by CLAIRE will be constantly enriched and updated. This is a strong sign of the entire cosmetics industry, which places transparency at the center of its relationship with the consumer.

The launch of the app complements the transparency approach undertaken by FEBEA with the launch of the LeLabdeClaire Instagram account, allowing for a more direct exchange with consumers and influencers on ingredient-related issues.