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U'Cosmetics: students imagine masculine beauty

U'Cosmetics 2025

The Université catholique de l'Ouest (UCO) Bretagne Nord organized the 16th edition of its U'Cosmetics competition and symposium on March 13, 2025.

The event brought together students, professionals and partners to discuss cosmetic innovation on the theme of "man and cosmetics? Beauty of all kinds." 

Competing students, in teams of 1 to 5, had to imagine and present an innovative cosmetics project in line with the event's theme. Three projects were rewarded.

The first Formulation Innovation Prize was awarded to the "Les Crâneurs" project led by Laura Alexandre-Alexis, Jeanne Raison and Allan Scher Terefenko from IPIL (Lyon, 69).

"Skull'timate, designed by Les Crâneurs, is a solid cream dedicated to the care of bald heads. Its innovative shape and massaging pimples offer a unique sensory experience while stimulating microcirculation. Enriched with moisturizing, soothing, protective and microbiota-balancing active ingredients, it's a complete skincare product that sublimates and protects the skull. "

"Èra", a project by Noémie Soyer, ines herry, margot guillou and chloé tourneur from UCO Bretagne Nord (Guingamp, 22), was awarded the second prize for Innovation in Formulation, as well as the Philippe Collas prize - the public's favorite.

"Èra et La feuille de rasage is an innovative galenic product in the form of a 2-in-1 sheet. It combines a creamy shaving foam and a moisturizing, soothing aftershave gel, countering the aggression caused by shaving. Men prefer the 2-in-1 approach and use few skincare products. With Èra, we're ushering in a new era that combines practicality and effectiveness, to satisfy their needs."

The first Innovative Concept Prize was awarded to "Oxym", a project led by Youna Offret, Jade Le Net, Alizée Pichon and Louann Merour from the University of Rennes (Rennes, 35).

"This cotton mesh cap uses microcapsules releasing natural active ingredients, such as oyster shell and nettle extract, to protect the scalp and promote hair growth. Refillable with a reactivating spray, it is comfortable, breathable and eco-designed, ideal for everyday use. An innovative product for a natural, effective hair solution."

The 17th edition of U'Cosmetics will take place on Thursday, March 19, 2026. The theme will be "Well-aging cosmetics: what if cosmetics accompanied time instead of defying it?"

U'Cosmetics in figures
- 149 students enrolled
- 40 teams registered for pre-selection
- 16 schools and 19 courses represented
- 10 projects selected
- 42 partners (ingredient suppliers, manufacturers of raw materials and cosmetics, trade press, institutional partners)
- A jury of 12 industry experts
- 8 conferences 
- 260 participants (finalist teams, speakers, visitors and volunteers)

FaiveleyTech and Sulapac create an innovative, eco-friendly massage accessory for Chanel 

Chanel massage accessory - FaiveleyTech and Sulapac

Finnish biobased raw materials supplier Sulapac and French SME FaiveleyTech, specialists in the injection and decoration of aesthetic plastic parts, continue their collaboration with Chanel. To their credit: the creation of a massage accessory, in line with the responsible and sustainable approach of the brand's N°1 skincare line.

Designed by Chanel experts for a unique sensory experience, the accessory created by FaiveleyTech and Sulapac enhances the effectiveness of Chanel's N°1 skincare ritual. Another special feature is its eco-design.

"We at Chanel are proud to set up unprecedented partnerships in the service of beauty. Working closely with our suppliers Sulapac and FaiveleyTech, we offer innovative products that further our commitment to a more sustainable cosmetics sector."explains Julien Garry, International Director of Purchasing and Packaging Development Innovation at Chanel Parfums-Beauté.

The material composition was developed by Sulapac before it was shaped by FaiveleyTech thanks to its mastery of multi-material injection technology. The two partners have been working together since 2017 to help the cosmetics industry replace petroleum-based plastics. 

The massage tool, made from over 85 % of bio-sourced materials, including camellia seed shells, is part of a more global approach to sustainable manufacturing based on the use of innovative materials. Through the valorization of camellia co-products, Chanel's emblematic active ingredient used notably in the N°1 skincare range, this object is part of Chanel's circularity approach. 

"At FaiveleyTech, we have been involved for many years in the transformation of Sulapac biosourced materials into environmentally-friendly packaging. The creation of this new massage tool is a perfect example of innovation at the service of product excellence, thanks to a fruitful partnership".says Béryl Tomaschett, Sales Director at FaiveleyTech.

"The massage tool represents an innovative solution from Chanel that combines the goal of responsible production with the use of sustainable materials. We hope it will inspire the entire beauty industry to innovate beyond recycled plastic."says Colin Strobant, Cosmetics Sales Manager at Sulapac.

"We at Chanel are proud to set up unprecedented partnerships in the service of beauty. Working closely with our suppliers Sulapac and FaiveleyTech, we offer innovative products that further our commitment to a more sustainable cosmetics sector."explains Julien Garry, International Director of Purchasing and Packaging Development Innovation at Chanel Parfums-Beauté.

Photo: © Chanel

Lumson: 50 years and a new offer targeting perfume brands

Fragrance-Lumson

The year 2025 is key for Lumson. The Italian company, which closed 2024 with sales of over €134 million, celebrates its 50th anniversary and launches its first fragrance packaging collection.

Based in the heart of Italy's cosmetic valley, Lumson has become a brand recognized and appreciated the world over. Over the years, Lumson has moved into large-scale production, while remaining committed to the quality craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail that have contributed to its success. To celebrate its 50th anniversary, several festive events have been planned throughout the year. 

A first fragrance collection

In 2025, the family-run company entered the world of perfumery. Its expertise in glass decoration, customizable with different effects and finishes, which has long been the cornerstone of Lumson packaging, now extends to perfumery, with solutions developed specifically for this sector. The range includes 13 high-end solutions in 50 mL and 100 mL, two travel sizes, and 60 closures in different materials (wood, aluminum, plastic), for a total of over 1,500 different combinations.

"Over the years, we have built an increasingly solid and established industrial process, where products are designed, developed and manufactured entirely in-house, explains Matteo Moretti, company president. Our manufacturing model, based on continuous innovation (in 2024, the company will invest 7 % of its sales in innovation) and close collaboration between all departments, from the industrial team to the laboratory, from quality control to the R&D division, enables us to create high-performance products and offer customers standard "turnkey" and customized solutions. Today, with 50 years' experience and a solid position in the world of make-up and skincare, we decided to bring this precious wealth of knowledge, innovation, taste and know-how to the world of perfumery to create something unique. Many goals have been achieved, but our eyes are already on the future. The future will be guided by the values that have defined our philosophy and our business to date: innovation, performance and aesthetic research".

Fragrances: a fast-growing segment

According to Lumson, a new golden age has begun for fragrances, which have become an integral part of holistic skincare routines and an element of well-being and personal expression. "Their ability to create bonds, enhance well-being and celebrate individuality makes them allies of beauty, capable of accompanying every stage of life and evolving along with us."says the company.

Lumson points out that, according to Euromonitor, the global fragrance market, already valued at $65.49 billion in 2024, will record worldwide growth of 10.2 % in 2024/2025. This trend also applies to artistic perfumery, which in several countries, including Italy, now accounts for more than 2 % of the beauty market.

The first hybrid sun protection formula for nails

Fiabila SPF50+ Base & Top

SPF50+ Base & Top is, according to its creators, the first hybrid SPF50+ nail care formula with UVA/UVB sunscreen, designed for time-saving consumers who want to use hybrid products with proven protective effects.

The formula of this new product developed by Fiabila, the world specialist in nail beauty, both base and topcoat, enriched with SPF and antioxidants, has been designed to prevent physical and chemical changes to the nail structure, reducing the risk of UV exposure and keratin oxidation during outdoor activities. According to Fiabila, it also prolongs color hold when applied first as a base and then as a topcoat.

Key ingredients in SPF50+ Base & Top include a marine plant extract to protect keratin from damage associated with reduced nail strength and other unsightly changes, and SPF50+ high-protection filters. Its solvent-based, non-thixotropic formula is film-forming. Also of note: carbonylated proteins are marked with a specific fluorophore after stress is applied to nails cut with or without marine plant extract.

Another Fiabila beauty innovation is Nail'glow Bronzer, an innovative hybrid nail treatment inspired by facial tanning drops and enriched with active ingredients. Its formula contains patented hexanal, a hardening molecule that strengthens and rebuilds fragile nails, flower acids, which help protect, moisturize and restore nails, and sarrazin extract, which helps protect nail keratin. What's more, the product is infused with bronzing drops, offering a warm tone to nails, while a concentration of 0.8 % radiance serum protects and beautifies them.

According to an exclusive Fiabila test panel*, nails are stronger (95 %), less brittle (90 %) and better nourished (95 %) after two weeks of application. Fiabila also reports that a laboratory efficacy study of the buckwheat extract contained in the formula showed that, after use, nail keratin is 51 % more protective against nail stress.

*20 users, three weeks, two coats

Procos sets up in Milan

Philippe Virey and Massimiliano Zichittella

Procos, manufacturer of high-end packaging, has been focusing on creativity and innovation for over 25 years. In January 2025, the German SME officially opened an Italian office in the heart of Milan to better meet the needs of its local customers and develop strategic partnerships with Italian luxury companies. 

"This expansion marks an important step in our commitment to serving our customers in Europe and strengthening our presence in the Italian market. We are very excited about the opening of this new office in Italy, which will be headed by Philippe Virey, our Subsidiaries Director, says Leander Kritikos, CEO of Procos. This country is a key market for us, and we look forward to collaborating with local companies to create synergies and offer superior services."

To support this development, Procos welcomes Massimiliano Zichittella to its team as Key Account Sales Manager. Massimiliano Zichittella brings to Procos his experience with a major Italian paper manufacturer, his expertise in the luxury goods sector and his in-depth knowledge of the Italian market. 

Photo, left to right: Philippe Virey and Massimiliano Zichittella.

Nutraceutical solutions for skin care

Lubrizol - nutraceutical solutions

Lubrizol intends to shine at Vitafoods Europe 2025 (May 20-22, 2025, Barcelona). Its stand will feature a golden stage with an interactive tunnel taking visitors on a journey of the brain.

In the spotlight: Curcushine, a nutraceutical concentrated with microencapsulated curcumin, designed to improve skin luminosity, reduce pigmentation and slow aging.

Visitors will also be invited to explore Lipofer microencapsulated iron, easy to digest and designed to support pregnancy. Also on display will be Magshape, a concentrated, bioavailable source of magnesium for relaxation; Lipophytol, dispersible phytosterols for cardiovascular health and menopause support; and Newcaff, a safe, time-release caffeine for active lifestyles. 

"These solutions combine scientific support with sensory appeal, guaranteeing safety and convenience."says Lubrizol.

Lubrizol aims to advance women's health through innovative nutraceutical products. Its microencapsulation technology optimizes the release and bioavailability of ingredients, making products both effective and enjoyable, according to the company. 

Yves Rocher steps up the pace in hair care

Yves Rocher - hair care

Yves Rocher is embarking on a new strategic phase with the aim of making hair care one of the pillars of its growth.

For 65 years, Yves Rocher has been the creator of "plant-based cosmetics", developing natural, planet-friendly cosmetic products with a bio-inspired approach, observing living organisms to identify the most promising plant-based active ingredients for skin care.

Relying on an integrated model, from plant to skin, anchored in Brittany, the company mobilizes its expertise in facial care to develop targeted hair solutions that meet the specific needs of the scalp and hair.

Dermo-botanical expertise for beautiful hair

Yves Rocher is part of the skinification trend. According to the company, scalp care is now the first essential step in any hair routine, at the crossroads of expectations in terms of naturalness, sensoriality and performance. 

Drawing on its dermo-botanical expertise, the brand launches its Sérum Équilibre Cuir. With one conviction: "the beauty of hair begins at the root".

The fruit of nine years' research and two patents, this new product is based on a formula highly concentrated in active ingredients of natural origin (96 %), combining an extract of eight organic plants grown in La Gacilly with a patented complex of plant saccharides. Designed as the first step in any hair ritual, this universal serum targets the scalp's three essential needs: soothing, moisturizing and protecting.

Reinventing the hair care shopping experience

The hair care offer now represents 9 % of Yves Rocher's total sales. To support its growth, the brand is deploying a 360° strategy. This includes a stronger physical presence, with immersive promotion of the offer in its 660 stores, and the launch of in-store hair diagnostics in 2026.

Customers are also offered an enriched digital experience via the brand's marketplace, which boasts 50 million visits a year. Yves Rocher's marketplace now includes partner brands with expertise in hair accessories and dietary supplements (DLAB, Epycure, Bachca, etc.), with a holistic approach to beauty.

"As France's No.1 beauty brand, Yves Rocher has an essential role to play in the transformation of hair care. This market is evolving rapidly, driven by growing expectations for naturalness, performance and attention to the scalp. Our dermo-botanical expertise, the fruit of 65 years' knowledge of plants and the skin, enables us to respond with relevance. By combining science and nature, we are developing a new generation of effective, sensorial and accessible skincare products. Our ambition is clear: to make hair care a strategic lever and position Yves Rocher as the benchmark for scalp care.says Céline Damour, Yves Rocher Brand Director.

With 38 existing capillary products, the brand plans to launch seven new products in 2025 and reformulate its expert ranges from 2026 onwards, to undertake an ambitious transformation of its capillary offering with one objective in mind: "combining performance, naturalness and accessibility.

ICPI Week 2025: Korea Brings Together Cosmetics, Pharma, and Biotech in a Major Trade Show

site-industries-cosmetics Visitors stroll through the stands of a trade show where the inscription "CI KOREA 2024" is displayed on a banner. Among the labeled sections, a car show attracts attention, contributing to the lively, bustling atmosphere of the space, imbued with innovation and enthusiasm.

From April 22 to 25, 2025, South Korea’s Kintex Exhibition Center will become the regional hub for the pharmaceutical, biotech, chemical, and cosmetics industries during ICPI Week. This major industry event brings together eight trade shows under one roof, including Cophex, CI Korea, and the ESG Sustainable Packaging Fair—three flagship showcases of Korea’s expertise in industrial processes, beauty innovation, and eco-design.

Cophex: 20th Edition Focused on Efficiency and Sustainability

site-industries-cosmetiques A lively trade show sees attendees stroll through a hall lined with stands presenting a variety of companies. Amid the crowd, a prominent red banner reads "COPHEX 2024". Visitors are immersed in the exhibits, some wearing race bags, exploring Brouillon's cutting-edge automotive innovations.

The salon CophexCophex, the leading exhibition for production and packaging technologies in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and healthcare sectors, celebrates its 20th edition with renewed ambition. Held in Hall 1 of Kintex, it will host over 1,200 companies from 30 countries, across more than 4,000 booths.

Attendees will find the latest in automated packaging machines, filling lines, tablet counters, inspection systems, and sterilizers. Among the exhibitors are major global players like Fedegari, Körber, Gerresheimer, and Rommelag, alongside leading Korean firms such as Heung-A, PTK, Daeyong Pharmatech, and Sunjin SM.

CI Korea: The Cosmetic Trade Show Gets a Makeover

Renamed “Cosmetic Inside Korea” for its 10th edition, CI Korea broadens its scope to become a comprehensive platform covering the entire cosmetics value chain. Set in Hall 2 of Kintex, the show will feature a full spectrum of offerings, including functional ingredients, formulation, packaging, OEM/ODM services, smart devices, cosmetology, nutricosmetics, and regulatory support.

International participation is expanding, with delegations expected from Malaysia, India, Turkey, Singapore, Jordan, Indonesia, and Hong Kong. A “Biz-Matching” system will streamline targeted meetings between exhibitors and buyers, with pre-scheduled appointments based on shared business interests.

site-industries-cosmetiques Four people are seated around a small table at a cosmetics stand. Three men are chatting, one holding a brochure entitled "Brouillon Auto", while a woman consults her phone. Beauty products and promotional images are displayed in the background.

The CI Korea Conference, a highlight of the show, will offer an expanded two-day program this year. Now free to attend, the conference will bring together researchers, R&D managers, and industry experts to explore key post-pandemic beauty transformation themes: biotechnology, artificial intelligence, bio-based materials, and advanced formulation.

ESG Sustainable Packaging Fair: A Forum for Responsible Packaging

site-industries-cosmetics Korea Pack 2024's lively exhibition hall is home to numerous booths, where Brouillon Auto showcases its cutting-edge packaging technology. Visitors can explore the exhibits under intense lighting, while a large event banner looms above.

A standout addition to the 2025 edition, the ESG Sustainable Packaging Fair will take center stage in Hall 1. Organized with the support of the Ministry of Trade, Industry and Energy and key industry associations, the fair will spotlight eco-friendly packaging innovations for consumer industries.

Around 40 companies will showcase breakthroughs ranging from biodegradable films to tape-free boxes, including recyclable materials, lightweight foams, and environmentally friendly inks. Exhibitors include Moorim Paper, StandPack, Eco Packaging Solutions, Jazzel Enterprises, and DigiAI.

For the first time, the fair will also host a special exhibition of the 2025 Korea Star Packaging Award winners. The 40 award-winning products—recognized for sustainable design, recyclability, or logistics efficiency—will be displayed in a dedicated 162 m² area.

Two days of conferences will complement the exhibition, with contributions from government ministries, industry leaders, academics, and local authorities. Topics will include carbon neutrality, materials circularity, ESG strategies, green technologies, and regulatory developments.

A High-Value Week of Networking and Innovation

ICPI Week positions itself as a key convergence point for stakeholders in the health, chemical, and beauty sectors. In addition to Cophex, CI Korea, and ESG Pack, five other trade shows will round out the program: Korea Pharm & Bio (APIs and biotechnology), Korea Chem (chemical processing), Korea Mat (industrial logistics), Korea ColdChain (cold chain logistics), and Korea Lab (analytical equipment).

Over 150 conferences and seminars are scheduled throughout the week, covering topics such as pharmaceutical regulation (MFDS), quality validation, cosmetic export strategies, advanced formulation, data integrity, and production line automation.

Practical Information

Thanks to the new GTX A line, Kintex is now just 16 minutes from Seoul Station. Free shuttles will also run from Hapjeong (Line 2) and Daehwa (Line 3) stations to the venue. Online registration before April 21 grants free entry (value 20,000 KRW) and access to all conferences. A single badge provides entry to all eight exhibitions.

Daniela Andrier, master perfumer at Givaudan, awarded by the Fragrance Foundation USA 

Daniela Andrier

"We are very proud to announce that we are about to reward Daniela Andrier for her outstanding achievements in perfumery. We look forward to presenting her with the Lifetime Achievement Award in June, in recognition of her remarkable career and the considerable influence she has had on our industry", said Linda G. Levy, President of the Fragrance Foundation USA. 

Daniela Andrier is a master perfumer with Givaudan, the world specialist in fine fragrances. "I am deeply honored to be recognized by the Fragrance Foundation USA. It's a privilege to work in a field that I'm passionate about, that brings a lot of emotion to people and creates lasting memories."she confided.

Xavier Renard, Global Head of Fine Fragrances at Givaudan, added: "Daniela's creativity and dedication are second to none. Her work exemplifies the spirit of innovation that characterizes Givaudan. We are incredibly proud to have her on our team, and this award will be a well-deserved recognition of her outstanding contributions to the fragrance industry."

"A moment of freedom and play, giving access to the world of dreams and childhood". This is how Daniela Andrier describes her creative work. Among her best-known creations is "Les Infusions", a range designed for Prada, with the emblematic Infusion d'Iris, or the latest, Infusion de Rhubarbe. Miu Miu for the eponymous brand, MYSLF for Yves Saint-Laurent (co-created with Antoine Maisondieu and Christophe Raynaud), and Fleur d'Oranger by Fragonard, are also among his creations.

Born in Heidelberg, Germany, Daniela Andrier studied philosophy at the Sorbonne in Paris, before discovering her passion for perfumery. She began her career in 1988 as an intern at Chanel. The following year, she joined the prestigious Roure Perfumery School, now owned by Givaudan.

Vytrus Biotech unveils an active ingredient that mimics cellular fasting

Vytrus Biotech - Clarivine

Vytrus Biotech, a company specializing in active ingredients derived from plant biotechnology for skin and hair care, offers Clarivine, an active ingredient that promotes skin longevity by mimicking the molecular effects of cellular fasting.

Clarivine aligns itself with a growing industry trend where exosomes, biotechnological breakthroughs and nominated actives are converging. Vytrus was among the first companies to demonstrate the presence of natural plant exosomes in 2024, with actives such as Centella Reversa and Capilia Longa.

Thanks to advanced plant biotechnology, Clarivine introduces an innovative biological approach to promoting skin longevity by mimicking the molecular effects of cellular fasting. This mild stress stimulates plant cells to produce a secretome rich in bioactive resilience compounds that Vytrus defines as plant fasting factors - a key concept in the biology of skin longevity, consistent with the cellular fasting approach.

These factors activate crucial regenerative pathways such as autophagy, telomere protection and oxidative stress reduction, improving cellular performance and promoting healthy aging from within. Skin cells are gently pushed into a rejuvenation mode, detoxifying and renewing themselves naturally.

Clarivine is derived from the stem cells of Vitis viniferaa perennial plant known for its extraordinary lifespan and capacity for regeneration. Vines are capable of living for centuries, adapting to environmental stress. Vytrus has harnessed this natural intelligence by applying an intermittent fasting protocol to grapevine stem cells, stimulating them to produce a powerful fasting-induced secretome. 

Skin texture, tone, dark spots and pigmentation benefit from Clarivine's actions while improving hydration and the appearance of wrinkles in just 14 days. According to Vytrus, the result is an immediate brightening, rejuvenating and smoothing effect - the coveted look of glass skin - combined with scientifically proven cellular longevity benefits, clinically validated in multi-ethnic panels of Asian and Caucasian volunteers.

Clarivine is 100 % natural origin (ISO 16128), Cosmos approved, compliant with Chinese standards, Halal certified, compatible with and respectful of the microbiome.

This ingredient was presented by the Vytrus team at in-Cosmetics Global in Amsterdam (April 8-10, 2025). The company also took advantage of the show to highlight its latest research into plant exosomes for skin and hair care applications via biotechnology.

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