Carestia Arcade Beauty invests in a state-of-the-art machine

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2 November 2017

Cosmetics industry - Research and development

To meet its customers' expectations in terms of aesthetics and creativity, Carestia has just commissioned its latest machine, promising an extra-fine cutting process and top-quality finishes.
A specialist in perfume discovery, Carestia stands out not only for its ability to work with very small-format products, but also for its experience in fine gilding, embossing and die-cutting processes.

Industrial challenge
Motivated by the ever-increasing demands of its customers, Carestia has succeeded in challenging the limits of traditional die-cutting to achieve exceptional finesse. Over time, the Grasse site has succeeded in optimizing the rendering of its die-cuts by adapting other types of tooling little used by the cardboard and commercial printing professions.
As proof, the 3D-cut blotter recently produced for Dior is the culmination of several months' development of this type of tooling.
Today, Carestia is unveiling a brand-new machine. This machine offers a host of advantages, including low rejects, rapid set-up and execution, and adaptability to both small and large quantities. Its innovative die-cutting system enables original finishing of printed products such as blotters, folding cartons, envelopes, sample cards...
This machine enables Carestia to improve the fineness of cut-outs, as well as the rendering of large dry stamping areas such as reproductions of fabric wefts and other decorations.

New trendy masks for LESSONIA

By

Kristel Milet

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31 October 2017

Colored bio cellulose: a trendy material. Impregnated masks are gaining in popularity all over the world, especially with Millennials who share their cosmetic discoveries on social networks. Lessonia's colored bio-cellulose masks give brands the chance to go viral. Thanks to their originality, these masks surf on the concept of the selfie to find themselves propagated on Instagram and Snapchat. What's more, as the number of players in the impregnated mask market continues to grow, this new material offers a real differentiation from the products already on offer.

3 colors are available: pink, green and gray/black.

This year, Lessonia is also expanding its range of serums for impregnated masks, with 6 new references offering a variety of properties:
- Rose Rejuvenating serum
- Cucumber Balancing serum
- Charcoal Pollustop serum
- Exotic Peeling serum
- Lemon Radiant serum
- Ocean Revitalizing serum

Each serum can be combined with the different types of materials offered by Lessonia: colored Bio cellulose, Advanced Bio cellulose, Original Bio cellulose, Lyocell, Black Detox (Oak or Bamboo), cotton...

Wood chemistry, Seppic will unveil its latest innovations at Woodchem

By

Kristel Milet

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27 October 2017

Sébastien Duprat de Paule, Innovation Director and member of Seppic's Executive Committee, will be speaking at Woodchem, a scientific symposium dedicated to wood chemistry, on December 7. This will be an opportunity for the Air Liquide subsidiary specializing in innovative specialty ingredients to present the molecules making their appearance on the beauty market, as well as their development prospects. A look back at the latest advances for the cosmetics sector, which is already firmly committed to natural and/or bio-sourced compounds.

Wood chemistry: a vast field of innovation for Seppic

Constantly seeking to develop increasingly responsible technologies and molecules, Seppic innovates with wood chemistry. Sébastien Duprat de Paule explains, "We've been active in the green chemistry market since the 1970s, and we continue to develop ever more responsible products. For Seppic, wood is another incredible bio-sourcing alternative". Renewable and sustainable, wood offers new prospects thanks to the molecules it generates, with new properties and improved performance. Hemicellulose, one of wood's main molecules, contains an incredible variety of complex sugars, which are extracted using sustainable processes. Sébastien Duprat De Paule will present the latest advances in this field at the 4th edition of Woodchem, a unique gathering of industrialists, researchers and institutions involved in wood chemistry.

Cosmetics and wood: a promising alliance

From the outset, the cosmetics industry has integrated natural and/or bio-sourced compounds into its product formulations. Faced with a particularly restrictive regulatory landscape and increasingly demanding consumer requirements (safety, performance, respect for the environment), wood opens the way to ideal sourcing, moving away from products of fossil origin. "Many of the sugar derivatives used in our products can now be sourced from wood. Lignin, the macromolecule that makes up wood, offers huge possibilities, the potential of which we are only just discovering," explains Sébastien Duprat de Paule. Texturizing agents, lubricating properties and surfactants are just some of the challenges facing our creams, shampoos, deodorants and make-up. Seppic will be taking part in Woodchem to present the links between wood chemistry and the historic and buoyant cosmetics sector.

Seelab, the measurement of the aspect at the service of cosmetic innovation

By

Kristel Milet

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25 October 2017

Seelab has teamed up with the Bio-EC Laboratory and the University of Cergy-Pontoise to bring innovations to cosmetic products for the skin thanks to its GP150 spectrophotometer.

The project with Bio-EC consists in implementing, on a population of volunteers, a method for objectifying complexion radiance, by obtaining in a single, rapid and repeatable measurement two parameters characteristic of radiance: color and brightness, thanks to direct measurement of BRDF. The expected result is proof of the effectiveness of a skincare cream. In addition, the project with the SATIE laboratory at the University of Cergy Pontoise will provide the cosmetics industry with access to the SATIE platform. Cosmetomics Seelab's BRDF (brilliance and color) direct measurement devices for use in characterizing and objectifying the appearance of cosmetic products, their components and their performance, in vivo and in vitro. For research services based on innovative measurements, manufacturers can contact Cosmetomics.
Guillaume Turpin, Seelab's Managing Director, commented: "For a designer of measuring instruments like Seelab, the collaboration with the Bio-EC laboratory enables us to develop trade measurement methods applied to the highly buoyant field of cosmetics. On the other hand, with the University of Cergy-Pontoise and its Cosmetomics platform, Seelab is in contact with a laboratory that is always close to industry, with a broad scope of applications. This enables Seelab to showcase today's technologies and prepare tomorrow's measuring instruments."

Elian Lati, Managing Director of the Bio-EC laboratory, notes that "the use of Seelab's GP150 opens the way to new studies on the objectification of the appearance and performance of cosmetic products".

Seelab is a French designer and manufacturer of appearance measurement and analysis solutions.
Seelab, and appearance characterization: the GP spectrophotometer developed by Seelab is the only portable instrument to combine gloss and color measurement, via direct measurement of BRDF at several angles. This gives objective, quantified access to these characteristic appearance parameters.

Cosmetic 360 has awarded these cosmetic innovation awards

By

Kristel Milet

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24 October 2017

Inaugurated by Benjamin Griveaux, Secretary of State for the Economy and Finance, The Cosmetic 360 international trade show was an opportunity to reward those involved in cosmetics innovation. Five awards were presented on Wednesday October 18 at a ceremony chaired by Patrick Beau, Vice-President of Cosmetic Valley and Director of the Spincontrol laboratory, to recognize the finest innovations proposed by exhibitors in each of the show's five expert trails. The winners were chosen by a jury of leading industry journalists on the basis of the innovation totem displayed on the stands. Three finalists were selected in each of the expert tracks by the jury members, who together selected the five winners.

Raw materials : Winner Adwatis (Switzerland)
www.adwatis.com
When pH12 ionized water becomes a more effective cosmetic product... 100% safe, non-chemical, non-toxic, 100% pure: no preservatives, surfactants or emulsifiers. 100% performs in terms of: skin cleansing, anti-bacterial effect, cellular pH rebalancing. With the help of its Japanese partner and scientific experts, Adwatis offers a new generation of innovative products in the form of ionized water.

Formulation & Production : Winner Laboratoire BF International (France)
www.labobf.com/fr
Renowned for its innovative textures for over 15 years, this independent laboratory has perfected a high-pressure process that allows formulation without skin-aggressive surfactants. Vectorization of lipophilic or hydrophilic active ingredients. Biomimetic: creates a hydrolipidic film.
Bioavailable: vectorization of active ingredients. Controlled penetration for greater safety. The bioavailability of our emulsions enables us to target the different layers of the skin, boosting the efficacy of the incorporated active ingredients.

Packaging & Conditioning : Winner Eurovetrocap Spa (Italy)
www.eurovetrocap.com
Infini-Pack is a product made with 90%, 75% recycled bottles of post-consumer and post-industrial plastic and glass waste, enabling a reduction of 36.5% in tons of CO2 per ton of containers manufactured. This family-owned company, which has specialized for over 30 years in the design and marketing of complete ranges of glass and plastic packaging, has made huge investments in renewable energy sources with the aim of reducing its environmental footprint - in particular its CO2 emissions - and meeting the growing sustainability needs of cosmetics brands.

Test & Analysis : Winner Aryballe Technologies (France)
www. aryballe-technologies.com
In less than two years, this Grenoble-based start-up founded in 2014 has developed NeOSe, an electronic nose, the first universal odor sensor that mimics human olfactory receptors Odor identification in 30 seconds. Technology as close as possible to the human olfactory experience. Reference odor database tailored to each customer's needs. Lightweight, portable device that's easy to move around. For quality control and R&D acceleration.

Support for the cosmetics industry: winner Ecomundo (France)
www.ecomundo.eu/fr
The Product Information File (PIF) that every manufacturer is required to compile is a key element in the marketing of any cosmetic product. Cosmetics manufacturers must guarantee that their products comply with regulatory requirements, present no health hazards, and have been manufactured in compliance with the European Cosmetics Regulation. Thanks to its toxicological database of over 3,500 ingredients and its automated cosmetics regulatory watch, this SME, which has opened an office in Vancouver, creates, manages and edits Product Information Dossiers (PIDs) and secures the data of customers who subcontract the complex compilation of these PIDs to it.

Jury of the 2017 awards

Françoise ALBASINI editor-in-chief - EMBALLAGE DIGEST
Ariane GOLDET, Beauty Editor - MARIE CAIRE
Nicolas GOSSE, Editor-in-Chief - INDUSTRIES COSMETIQUES
Doria MAIZ, Editor-in-Chief - EXPRESSIONS COSMETIQUES
Sylvie VAZ, journalist - COSMETIQUE MAG

Inauguration of the Cosmetomics@Normandy Technology Platform

By

Kristel Milet

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19 October 2017

The safety and performance of cosmetic products are among the essential values of Made in France that Cosmetic Valley aims to promote. To this end, the cluster has launched the COSMETOMICS platform network, giving companies in the industry access to cutting-edge technologies and enabling them to participate in the development of new measurement and testing instruments and methods. The challenges are numerous: characterizing the product, studying the skin, measuring skin-product-environment interactions, assessing product safety and their harmlessness for users... Dedicated to Measuring skin-product interactions with the aim of measuring their effectiveness, the first Cosmetomics@Paris-Île-de-France platform was inaugurated in Cergy-Pontoise in 2016. In 2017, the network will be enriched by a second platform: Cosmetomics@Normandie, which will be dedicated to measuring the health and safety of cosmetic products.

Cosmetic product safety: A Strategic Area of Excellence for Cosmetic Valley

Established in Normandy since 2005, the Cosmetic Valley competitiveness cluster shares with the region a strategy of territorial excellence in the field of security. Indeed, a concentration of know-how in this field justifies this thematic positioning for the cluster. The inauguration of the Cosmetomics@Normandie platform is a concrete illustration of this. It follows on from the development, on the Ebroïcien site, of the skills of the academic and private research network on health safety (chemical and microbiological), which originated in the 2000s. Intimately linked to the region's economic development, these skills were identified as part of the smart regional specializations listed by Europe in 2013.

Four new structures have been created to support this process:
▪ Cosmetolab, launched in 2014, the first industrial pilot for preservative-free cosmetics processing and packaging.
▪ Cosmetomics@Normandie, a platform dedicated to measuring the health and safety of cosmetic products.
▪ The I2C Carnot springboard: an academic research network in Normandy, part of whose activity will concern the cosmetics industry (inauguration end of October 2017).
▪ The Centre de Sécurité Sanitaire de Normandie on the Evreux university campus
(opening at the end of 2017)

ISIPCA hosts the 2nd Corpo 35 competition sponsored by Robertet

By

Kristel Milet

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October 13, 2017

For the second year running, Isipca is hosting candidates from the Corpo35 perfume formulation competition on its premises in Versailles. Created by the rare perfume store "35 rue Damiette" in Rouen, the aim of this competition is to bring out new talent. Isipca, the leading international training school for perfumes, cosmetics and food flavors, is making its prestigious premises and laboratories available as part of this partnership. The candidates, accompanied by the partners in this operation, will be welcomed on Monday October 16.
SIPCA actively supports competitions to discover new perfumers or simply to showcase new innovations. This approach complements SIPCA's vocation to train young people in scientific and commercial olfactory professions, in initial training courses from Bac to Bac+6 level, and adults in continuing education.
The school is very proud of its students: In the 1st edition, Anne Dussourt, an Isipca student in a Master's degree in formulation and sensory evaluation, climbed to the top of the podium. Four young talents, current or former Isipca students, were among the five competition winners.
Corpo 35 was created by the perfume house "35 Damiette". Located in Rouen's antiques district, it's a place for olfactory experiences and encounters with the world of perfumes steeped in history. The boutique offers exclusive fragrances and the latest creations from renowned noses and perfumers.
This year's competition is sponsored by Robertet, world leader in sustainable natural raw materials, alongside the 2018 edition's partners: Centdegrés, Isipca, Jovoy, Maison de Parfum Berry, Saverglass, Aaptar, Arcange, Au Parfum, Cosmed, Ecomundo, Eurobougie, Incarta, Pole Pass, NormandyY Frenchtech, Spread.

"We love, we support. Encouraging vocations is a challenge. Isipca actively supports the Corpo35 competition, in particular through our logistical and scientific expertise. Nurturing new talent is an integral part of our DNA. Developing creativity is one of the key elements of the perfume industry. It's also a skill that we develop in our students who are destined for the olfactory professions." Cécile Ecalle, Isipca Director.

Cherries for the new Naturex Beauty Food range

By

Kristel Milet

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11 October 2017

Naturex expands its "Beauty Food" range of food-based skincare ingredients. The new collection "Energy Boost includes concepts formulated from extracts of dogwood (cornelian cherry) and acerola.

Cornelian cherry - tomorrow's superfruit
Dogwood (Cornus officinalis Sieb. et Zucc) is an antioxidant-rich fruit used in traditional Chinese medicine. This new ingredient is perfectly in tune with the two major trends in cosmetics today: "superfruits" and Asian inspiration. Less well known than some other Asian medicine ingredients, cornelian cherry offers real potential for innovation and differentiation. Drawing on its botanical knowledge and experience, Naturex believes that cornelian could become a highly successful cosmetic ingredient in the near future - just as cranberry was a few years ago.
The antioxidant power of dogwood and its benefits for the skin have been demonstrated. Studies in vitro have shown that it stimulates by 710 % the production of catalase, an enzyme protecting the skin from oxidative stress. In addition, it increases by 120 % the production of glutathione reductase, an enzyme essential for maintaining the oxidative balance of cells. Dogwood has also been shown to reduce lipid peroxidation by 40 %. This true "superfruit" is also renowned for its soothing properties and radiance-enhancing benefits.

Acerola - the vitamin C superstar
Acerola (Malpighia glabra L.) is renowned for its high vitamin C content and antioxidant power. It is now recognized as one of the most promising superfruits. Produced in Brazil via a responsible and sustainable supply chain, Naturex acerola powder extract has 26 times the antioxidant activity of orange.

Two innovative concepts
The number of new products containing dogwood and acerola increased significantly between 2012 and 2016, by 183 % for dogwood, and 36 % for acerola (Mintel data). Naturex has harnessed the benefits of these two berries to create two new Energy Boost concepts:
- Face ice cream - a luxurious face cream, enriched with extracts of dogwood and acerola for an antioxidant boost
- ACG Cocktail - a light, refreshing mist with acerola, Chakah honey and guarana to give skin a healthy dose of energy

Both products will be presented at Cosmetics 360 in Paris (October 18 and 19, 2017) and SCC California (October 25 and 26, 2017).

Emilie Danckaert, Global Category Manager, comments: "Our Beauty Food range illustrates how today's healthy foods can inspire tomorrow's cosmetics. Thanks to our extensive experience in plant extracts for the cosmetics and food industries, Naturex is perfectly able to identify ingredients - such as dogwood and acerola - that can also prove effective and efficient in skincare products."

The Energy Boost collection complements two other collections in the Beauty Food range: Indulgence and Detox. To find out more about these concepts, visit the Naturex stand at Cosmetics 360 and SCC California.

Media kit

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editocom

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October 10, 2017

You would like to contribute to the magazine Industries Cosmétiques ? Take a look at our media kit 2019 !

Industries Cosmétiques has become the benchmark publication for the design, development, production and packaging of cosmetics and fragrances. It is aimed at all professionals in the field, whether they work in R&D laboratories or production centers.

To download our English media kit, please click here: Industries Cosmétiques Media Kit

Dr Pierre Ricaud signs a cocooning ritual for winter

By

Kristel Milet

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9 October 2017

To put a stop to the skin discomfort that sets in during winter, Dr Pierre Ricaud has formulated two new personalized skin care products enriched with key moisturizing and nourishing active ingredients, and featuring cozy textures.

A face mask or a body shower, two levels of expert care to comfort uncomfortable skin:
- Eclat d'hiver, Nutri-Réconfort Balm Mask for nourished, comforted skin in 10 minutes.
It is ideal for all women looking for relaxation and immediate, intense comfort. Its generous, ultra-sensorial formula, based on shea butter, vitamin E and hazelnut oil, with a delicious honey fragrance, deeply nourishes the skin and protects it from the effects of the cold.
- Grand Confort shower cream for dehydrated skin. It combines cleansing and moisturizing in a single step. Gentle and creamy, its soap-free, pH-neutral formula is based on glycerine, surgras,

Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery

Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery

Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery

Carestia Arcade Beauty invests in a state-of-the-art machine

New trendy masks for LESSONIA

Wood chemistry, Seppic will unveil its latest innovations at Woodchem

Seelab, the measurement of the aspect at the service of cosmetic innovation

Cosmetic 360 has awarded these cosmetic innovation awards

Inauguration of the Cosmetomics@Normandy Technology Platform

ISIPCA hosts the 2nd Corpo 35 competition sponsored by Robertet

Cherries for the new Naturex Beauty Food range

Media kit

Dr Pierre Ricaud signs a cocooning ritual for winter

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Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery