Seppic presents new data on Fluidipure 8G

15 May 2017

Seppic presents new results for Fluidipure 8G on its multi-purifying action and protection of the microbiota.

Fluidipure 8G, a biomimetic purifying active, offers complete protection for the skin cocoon. A glycine and sugar biovector, it helps limit the proliferation of microorganisms responsible for skin disorders and formula contamination. A biomimetic acidifier, it helps aggressed skin regain its physiological pH (acid mantle), guaranteeing its integrity. Available in a liquid, transparent form, this active ingredient can be easily integrated into all types of cosmetic products designed for care or hygiene, including processes without/with heating.

This year, Seppic presents three new tests making Fluidipure 8G a multi-purifying active ingredient, protecting "beneficial" microbiota and sensitive skin. Tested in vivo in hair care products, it reduces dandruff, soothes scalp irritation and eliminates unpleasant odors after 5 to 10 shampoos (clinical study carried out on 46 Asian volunteers vs. placebo). Used in skin care products, this active ingredient helps to reduce body odor by preserving bacteria beneficial to our skin. By reducing the quantity of preservatives, Fluidipure 8G is suitable for sensitive skin. For example, a latest test ensures perfect protection for up to 30 months for formulas on fabric masks, with a combination of 2.5% Fluidipure 8G M 8G and 0.1% Sensiva SC 10 or 0.1% Sensiva SC 50 .

Fluidipure offers versatile purifying efficacy coupled with ease of use. It is easily incorporated into hair and scalp care products, deodorants, hygiene products and preservative-free formulas. Its liquid form, efficacy and affordable cost make this active ingredient an obvious asset. Last but not least, it meets the strong worldwide demand for purifying active ingredients.

Test i n vivo - 46 volunteers with dandruff
Shampoo containing 2.5% of Fluidipure 8G, used once every 3 days.
In just 10 shampoos, Fluidipure 8G eliminates dandruff: the scalp is purified.

The company Bullier, manufacturer of Leonard brushes, joins the Medicos group

Kristel Milet

11 May 2017

Cosmetics industry - StratiCELL Screening Technologies SA

Lyon-based Medicos Group, chaired by Cédric Marmonier, takes control of Bullier in Saint-Brieuc (Côtes-d'Armor). Stéphanie Bullier, who has held a 100% stake in % since 2012, is selling the company while remaining a minority shareholder.
A family business for seven generations, after the 1840 takeover of the Maison Chérion et Samuel dating back to 1779, the Bullier company designs and produces high-quality brushes for professionals and the general public, mainly for make-up and Fine Arts. An Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (EPV) since 2011, Bullier achieved sales of €3.4 million in 2016, employs 30 people, and markets a catalog of over 3,000 brush references, fan-shaped, with pointed, square or round tips, in natural bristles (petit-gris, sable, goat, badger, etc.) or synthetic fibers. These brushes are supplied in particular to the big names in make-up and the main distributors of Fine Arts, under their own brand or the world-famous "Léonard" brand. The company also offers a range of complementary products such as kits, packs and merchandising displays.
Specific series and top-of-the-range items are produced in the workshops, located in the heart of Saint-Brieuc, which handle wick manufacture, ferrule setting, assembly, gluing, marking and inspection with over two hundred years of know-how. In addition, the company has some of its products custom-made in Asia, with the support of its purchasing office in China.
Since 2012, Stéphanie Bullier has been particularly committed to developing and streamlining production processes to reduce delivery times as much as possible. In this way, the company benefits from great flexibility and responsiveness. In recent years, it has increased its export sales to over 40 % of sales. Against this backdrop, it is handing over control of a fast-growing company with the aim of taking it a further step forward in its development.
With the acquisition of Bullier, the Medicos Group aims to further expand its range of "Made in France" services. It also wishes to provide Bullier with its industrial expertise and increased financial resources. The merger will also enable the development of new products for the distribution and application of skincare and make-up products, as well as for the fine arts.
In the short term, new industrial resources will be implemented to rapidly increase Bullier's production in France. In addition, the development of complementary products and the cross-fertilization of customer portfolios will ensure future growth. With this new operation, Medicos Group sales are set to rise sharply in 2017 to well over the €30 million mark.

Strand Cosmetics Europe launches a floral range with anti-pollution powers

Kristel Milet

9 May 2017

The new range designed by Strand Cosmetics Europe combines sensoriality, the delicate fragrance of jasmine flowers and the effectiveness of its selection of active ingredients to provide freshness, soothing and protection for the skin, with anti-pollution and anti-blue light results.
The 5 formulas are distinguished by their original textures, the concentration of active ingredients and their specific benefits: moisturizing, tightening, anti-dark circle, anti-stress, etc. A complementary range for a pleasant, high-performance daily ritual.

Key ingredients in the Flower Power range

Butterfly tree (buddleia officinalis) flower extract: Protects against damage caused by blue light and stimulates the cellular detoxification system.
Jasmine flower extract: Refreshing, soothing and antioxidant.
Bio-polymers extracted from red algae and Tara (Caesalpina spinosa): a film-forming active ingredient with a protective/shielding role and immediate tightening lifting power.
Centella Asiatica & Calendula extract (eye contour): Anti-puffiness, anti-dark circles.

Floral Eye Contour provides freshness, soothing and immediate, long-lasting protection against urban pollution. The tube's zamak tip makes it easy to apply the gel to the eye contour area, then massage it in to enhance penetration of the active ingredients and activate micro-circulation for anti-dark circle effectiveness.

Floral Day Cream acts like a skin shield. Its texture penetrates gently, leaving a soft, non-sticky veil that moisturizes, soothes and protects skin from external pollution. Its jasmine fragrance plunges you into a soothing, relaxing floral world.

Floral Lotion is a lightly jellied lotion infused with jasmine petals designed to awaken and soothe fragile skin. It leaves a protective, tensing film that prepares skin for the day.

Floral Serum is an ultra-sensorial flower concentrate that envelops the skin in a silky, protective film, with an immediate tightening effect. Bursting with soothing, anti-pollution flower extracts, the skin is ready to receive make-up.

Floral Magic Mask is easily applied all over the face, providing an immediate fresh effect. The real jasmine petals contained in this transparent gel help diffuse the anti-stress and anti-pollution active ingredients throughout the epidermis.

Mill signs new collaboration with L'Oréal group

Kristel Milet

May 4, 2017

Designer and manufacturer of metal decors for prestigious products and packaging, Mill is now creating the labels for Viktor&Rolf's best-selling women's fragrance "Flowerbomb", as well as its new spring variation "Flowerbomb Bloom", launched at the end of February 2017. This is a second collaboration within the L'Oréal group after Roger&Gallet, a brand for which Mill has been decorating the caps of the entire fragrance range for over 5 years.

" This is an important referencing for Mill, since with the Flowerbomb collection, we have gained access to the production of a perfume bottle that has become an international must-have since its launch over 10 years ago, and which continues to write its own history. says Jean-Pierre Clerc, Mill Manager.

A sober design serving the bottle's originality
On the famous faceted bottle, the aluminum label comes in a square version for the eau de parfum and a rectangular version for the eau de toilette. For both models, the label is covered with a powder pink varnish to match the juice. The text appears in tone-on-tone matte. The thin 0.3 mm metal plate is applied with UV glue.

Special packaging for process automation
In addition to the manufacture of sheets, Mill worked with its customer to develop customized packaging. In fact, the sheets are delivered in loaders to facilitate installation and bonding.

The importance of prototyping sets before production launch
More generally, prototyping is a major stage in the design of an ornamental label. Respect for hues, colors and gloss is essential to ensure harmony between all components (label, cap, pump, collar). To ensure that the prototype reflects the series to come, Mill develops it on production equipment.

Natrue passes the 5,000 mark for certified products since 2009

Kristel Milet

May 2, 2017

Natrue is a flagship organization for the sector. Since 2009 and the first 400 certified products, the label has continued to expand across Europe and beyond. Today's 5,000 products testify to the strategic choice of 230 brands worldwide (Europe, Japan, USA, Australia, former Eastern Bloc countries, and more recently Russia, India, Lebanon, Thailand and Turkey). This influence demonstrates that the label is perfectly suited to the global demand for transparency in natural and organic cosmetics.
Natrue is the only truly representative organization for natural and organic cosmetics sitting on the European Commission Working Group on Cosmetic Products., as such, it can make its voice heard at the point where the development and future of European legislation on cosmetics are at stake.

It all began with a body oil, the first product to be certified in 2009! The milestone reached at the beginning of 2017 is significant both in terms of its number (5,000 products) and in terms of the opportunity it provides to take stock on the main developments in this sector since the label was created.

-> Variety of certified productss :
For example, nail care products. The launch of Natrue-certified nail varnishes is a very recent milestone for the cosmetics industry. Until very recently, it seemed impossible to manufacture a nail polish that could be considered a natural product.
The full range of hair care products are now represented, whereas just a few years ago, the use of surfactants of natural origin could be problematic. Their foaming power sometimes left something to be desired, but the development of new raw materials, combined with ingredients of natural origin, has enabled the design of new products that are both effective and pleasant to use.
Multifunctional products (for example, to color and protect, like BB creams) are now available in certified versions. Women in a hurry who want an "all-in-one" product don't have to sacrifice their desire for naturalness for practicality.
Men's products deserve a special mention. In addition to shaving products, natural and organic brands now offer shower gels and shampoos specially designed for men.
Perfumed waters directly from nature are also a recent innovation.
-> Formulation trends : an interesting development involves sourcing active ingredients from all over the world: extracts and resins from Latin America, berries from Scandinavia, shea butter and African plant extracts (such as Kigelia extract)and the rediscovery new ways of exploiting local, sometimes common ingredients: olives, pine and conifer resin, aloe vera, and their derivatives.
-> Growing consumer interest in labelled products. For natural and organic, but also fair trade, vegan or halal. It has become commonplace to see several labels on the same product. In the midst of this emergence, the confirmed success of Natrue is due to criteria that go far beyond a simple fashion effect.
-> Natrue label guarantees
An independent Scientific Committee defines the accepted ingredients and the minimum and maximum thresholds to guarantee maximum naturalness and a minimum of ingredients derived from natural ingredients.
Accredited certification bodies are independent and oversee various certifications (cosmetics, food, textiles, sustainable development).
Verification of compliance with Natrue criteria takes place in two stages: a formulation check followed by an on-site visit. Renewal takes place every two years. Another organization assesses certifiers every 4 years, to verify the competence of the bodies responsible for certification.

MS swiss cosmetics to the benefits of the Titlis glacier water

Kristel Milet

28 April 2017

MS swiss cosmetics asserts its Swiss identity with a new line of 5 products* which concentrates the purity and benefits of Titlis glacier water to help skin regain its original purity. A line thought through right down to the packaging.
The targeted skin care products - day cream, eye contour, night cream, scrub and lotion - draw their moisturizing, energizing and rebalancing power from Titlis glacier water, rich in minerals and trace elements. Red snow algae stimulates the "Klotho" gene for an antioxidant, detoxifying and anti-aging effect. Finally, the plant complex - ginseng, apple, peach, wheat and barley - plays a protective role against heavy metals and free radicals.
The line's common thread, this trio is combined with targeted active ingredients depending on the care product, such as tetrapeptides with anti-dark circle properties for the eye contour care, menthol for a freshening effect in the lotion, or the apple, lentil, watermelon complex for intense, deep rehydration in the day cream.
The textures are delicate and creamy, providing efficacy and a galenic formula adapted to each care product, for a comforting daily ritual. The packaging has been carefully selected to optimize application.

A tried and tested ritual:
For an optimal anti-aging effect, MS swiss cosmetics recommends combining the application of skin care products twice a day - day, night and eye care - with a massage using Twin Spatula by COSMOGEN. The skin is left feeling relaxed, and benefits fully from the formulas' beneficial effects.

Decorative particles for skincare products

Kristel Milet

26 April 2017

With spring, Lessonia brings natural and elegant 100% solutions to make skincare products, Piece of Nature, blossom.

Based on a selection of flowers and leaves, this range of natural ingredients follows the trend of floral inclusions in cosmetics. In recent years, flowers have blossomed in a wide range of skincare products: massage oils, dry oils, shower gels, cleansers, lotions, creams, masks, shampoos...
Piece of Nature is the perfect range for brands wishing to visibly accentuate the naturalness of their products. The use of decorative particles allows the creation of playful cosmetic products thanks to the diversity of colors and shapes available.

Choose the right decorative particles:
Lessonia's experts can advise on the best decorative particle for each project. Depending on the type of formula required, different constraints may be encountered when using decorative particles. Lessonia can provide specific support for the formulation, stability and packaging of skincare products to be included.

Naturex's Open Innovation program celebrates its first anniversary

Kristel Milet

24 April 2017

Sharing knowledge and solving challenges through the application of groundbreaking technologies have always been at the heart of Naturex's business. Launched in March 2016, the Ingenium program, which aims to encourage technological advances and the introduction of new products through collaboration with external partners, has been a great success this year. Ingenium is well placed to make a positive contribution to Naturex's progress, helping the group to achieve its Bright2020 strategic objectives.

Eight successful collaborations over the year
During 2016, Naturex collaborated with a number of international partners. These cooperations include, among others, a licensing agreement with the Barry Callebaut group that enabled the launch of Cocoactiv', a cocoa extract with a high flavanol content, and with Poland-based Adamed, which led to the market introduction of Aronox®, an aronia extract targeting cardiovascular health. Other companies such as Mazza Innovation, FP Innovation, EPC Natural Products, In-Vitro Plant-tech and Green2Chem have also collaborated with Naturex to develop responsible and innovative natural solutions. The latest transaction involves the acquisition of certain assets from French company Dialpha SAS, including patents, trademarks and clinical studies on three health ingredients. These ingredients, derived from cashew nuts, cinnamon and chicory, are specifically designed to help regulate blood sugar levels and manage weight. The group intends to study the potential of these ingredients, and their synergistic effect in combination with other ingredients in the Naturex portfolio.

Specific avenues for Open Innovation in 2017
"The past year has been a very productive one in terms of Open Innovation at Naturex," explains Doug Klaiber, responsible for the global roll-out of the Ingenium program. "We're delighted with the number of interesting opportunities we've received. We currently have dozens of opportunities in the pipeline, and we're identifying new ones every day. The challenge now is to focus on the most significant ones.

To this end, Naturex has defined four main areas of potential collaboration:
- Natural colors (especially blue, green and red);
- Innovative natural food preservation solutions;
- Natural phytoactive ingredients for health and cosmetic purposes
- Technologies or enriched ingredients of natural origin for nutrition (vitamins and minerals).
Klaiber adds: "We see Ingenium as a flexible tool that will help us achieve our Bright 2020 objectives. Naturex is pleased and proud to share its botanical expertise with partners determined to implement innovative approaches."

Cosmetics exports pass the €12 billion mark

Kristel Milet

20 April 2017

France's cosmetics exports go from strength to strength for the 1^era12 billion mark in 2016, up +2% on 2015.
The balance of trade surplus in the cosmetics sector stands at €9.2 billion, putting cosmetics in second place after the aeronautics sector.
"French cosmetics continue to expand internationally, combining the strengths of a high-quality image with those of innovation". says Patrick O'Quin, President of the Fédération des Entreprises de la Beauté (FEBEA).

Growth in North America and Asia offsets European slowdown

Germany, the UK, Spain and Italy all remain in the top 5 of countries to which France exports the most, even if the amount of exports is tending to slow down in these 4 countries.
The slowdown in Europe was largely offset by sustained growth in North America. Exports are up to the United States (+8.5%), Canada (+4.5%) and Mexico (+4%).
The Asia zone as a whole grew by almost 10% in 2016, with increases to China (+15%), Singapore (+13%), South Korea (+18%) and Japan (+4%).
Indeed, while Asia had a more difficult year in 2015, 2016 saw a real recovery across the zone. Growth remains strong in China, despite regulations that are ill-suited to the market's constant innovations.
Asia now accounts for 17% of cosmetics exports.

Instability in other geographic zones

Exports to Latin America (-7.2%), non-EU European countries (-3.5%) and the Middle East (-5.9%), on the other hand, are down sharply.
European countries outside the European Union have been experiencing a decline in exports for several years. The rouble is an unstable currency, and this is having a major impact on our exports to Russia (-13%).
Declines in the Middle East (Saudi Arabia (-18%), United Arab Emirates (-5.8%)) are linked to rapidly changing and increasingly complex regulations, as well as to an economy in transition due to falling oil prices. The purchasing power of Emiratis and Saudis is falling, with major consequences for their consumption of luxury goods.
Exports to North Africa were down by 3.6%, with Egypt the main cause of this decline, with exports down by -27%, again due to the country's very difficult economic situation.

Drivers and new gas pedals of French exports

Skincare and fragrances account for ¾ of French cosmetics exports (43.4% for skincare and 31.3% for fragrances).
"High-end brands are still popular worldwide, and drugstore brands are accelerating their penetration". emphasizes Virginie d'Enfert, FEBEA Director of Economic, Environmental and International Affairs.
Finally, the French cosmetics industry is distinguished by new transformation characteristics which, in addition to product quality, may explain its success. An increased focus on well-being, innovative distribution methods, and investment in science and technology are changing the landscape.
" The sector's players are committed to creating personal and collective well-being, taking care of themselves and the environment. They are building new Internet distribution strategies and developing new physical outlets, such as their own boutiques. And companies are deploying the personalized, connected and technological cosmetics market, ushering in a new era. adds Patrick O'Quin, Chairman of the FEBEA.

Seppic presents Subligana, an anti-blemish active ingredient

Kristel Milet

18 April 2017

Seppic launches Subligana, a new active ingredient against blemishes and pimples, for a zero-defect effect linked to oxidative stress, an active ingredient created by Serdex, a Seppic subsidiary since January 2017.

Acne affects almost 80% of the population at some point in their lives( 1) . New studies show that increased oxidative stress at both systemic and cutaneous levels is involved( 2) .
Subligana is a titrated extract of Harungana madagascariensis from central and eastern Madagascar. By acting as a repellent and physical barrier, Harungana madagascariensis is able to protect primary forests from external aggression and restore degraded environments. Botanists call it the "Protector of the forest". Traditionally, leaf decoctions are used for asthma and skin problems, and leaf juice is used as a healing agent.
This new active ingredient is designed for acne-prone skin with imperfections. A use test on teenagers with acne-prone skin showed a significant reduction in the number of whiteheads versus placebo after 28 days. Subligana's mode of action combines a soothing effect (inhibition of lipase, regulation of IL-10 & IL-12), an antioxidant effect (protection against lipid peroxidation) and an effect against Propionibacterium acnes .
Harungana madagascariensis leaves are collected according to good collection practices in the highlands of Madagascar to ensure a reproducible phytochemical composition. Serdex has set up a sustainable and ethical supply chain committed to the fair and ethical sharing of benefits in accordance with the Nagoya Protocol.

Subligana is listed on IECIC (China) and complies with Cosmos.

Virginie Anchartéchahar , R&D Manager at Serdex confirms: "Based on scientific studies, we have developed an innovative mode of action, both soothing and anti-oxidant, for acne-prone skin. "

References
1: Questions and Answers About Acne. National Institute of Arthritis and Musculoskeletal and Skin Diseases, 2001, Jan 2006 [consulted in july 2016]. Available on: https://www.niams.nih.gov/Health_Info/Acne /
2: Bowe et al. Clinical implications of lipid peroxidation in acne vulgaris old wine in new bottles, Lipids in Health and Disease 2010.

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Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery

Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery

Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery

Seppic presents new data on Fluidipure 8G

The company Bullier, manufacturer of Leonard brushes, joins the Medicos group

Strand Cosmetics Europe launches a floral range with anti-pollution powers

Mill signs new collaboration with L'Oréal group

Natrue passes the 5,000 mark for certified products since 2009

MS swiss cosmetics to the benefits of the Titlis glacier water

Decorative particles for skincare products

Naturex's Open Innovation program celebrates its first anniversary

Cosmetics exports pass the €12 billion mark

Seppic presents Subligana, an anti-blemish active ingredient

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Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery