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Cosmetic 360: the winners are...

Cosmetic Valley - COSMÉTIQUE 360

At the Cosmetic 360 trade show, a jury of professionals and journalists (including Industries Cosmétiques) handed out the 2016 awards in 6 categories. The winners are...

Raw Materials category:
SYTHEON for the Synoxyl project
A photo stabilizer and SPF booster with antioxidant properties, at a time when the galenics of suncare products are becoming more sophisticated and daily care products all have a sun protection factor, an ingredient with a lot of potential.

Formulation & Manufacturing category :
OMNICOS for the Chalky Eyeshadow project A new way of formulating powders in the form of a pencil gesture; interesting at a time when textures are becoming increasingly sensorial and surprising.

Packaging & Conditionning category:
KARZA for the Helium project A new, innovative, environmentally-friendly airless pouch for personal care and cosmetic products.

Testing & Analysis category :
NOVITOM for the Ultimate analysis of Cosmetics project Non-invasive 2D and 3D imaging for in situ visualization of cosmetics applied to tissues (skin, hair, nails). This tool visualizes the penetration and effect of cosmetics on these different tissues.

Consumer Experience category :
PICXEL for the Face2Market project A new solution to better understand consumers by analyzing their emotions when faced with stimuli.

Category Support function for cosmetic industry:
COSMETOLAB for the Cosmetolab project Innovative platform for manufacturing preservative-free cosmetics to meet current regulatory requirements (formulation, decontamination and microbiology).

New specialty ingredients production site in the USA for Air Liquide

Air Liquide announces that its subsidiaries Seppic, creator of specialty ingredients for healthcare, and Schülke, specializing in hygiene, have laid the foundation stone for an ultra-modern production site in Sandston (Henrico County - Virginia, USA). Scheduled to come on stream in the first half of 2018, the facility represents an investment of over $60 million and will help create around 50 jobs in the region.

The new site will produce ingredients for the world's leading cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries. Specialty ingredients for cosmetics represent a market worth over $10 billion worldwide, including $25 % in the United States.

This production facility will enable both companies to strengthen their proximity to their American customers. The plant is located in the north-east of the USA, close to the majority of the industry's players. It will be managed via a joint venture between Seppic and Schülke, named Polykon Manufacturing. The resulting synergies will enable Seppic and Schülke to create added value in their respective areas of expertise, while meeting the growing need for innovation in these markets.

François Jackow, member of the Air Liquide Group's Executive Committee, overseeing Healthcare activities, commented: "Seppic and Schülke have a long-standing presence in the United States, where they serve major customers in the health and beauty sectors. This first U.S. production site for both companies will enable them to increase their innovation potential, expand their industrial footprint and get closer to their U.S. customers, while strengthening their global production capacities. With this investment, Air Liquide is pursuing its development in hygiene and specialty ingredients, and strengthening the Group's Healthcare business in this region."

Come and meet us at Cosmetic 360

Product design - Product

The entire magazine team Industries Cosmétiques will be delighted to welcome you to Cosmetic 360, which opens its doors today at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris.
Come and meet us to discuss your projects in the field. Discover our magazine and our own projects.

We look forward to seeing you again or getting to know you.

And what's more, we'll treat you to an espresso!

Partnership between Merck and Agrimer for the commercialization of a new generation of marine actives

COSMETICS 360 - Cosmetic industry

Agrimer announces its collaboration with Merck to market a new generation of marine active ingredients for dermocosmetics. This partnership, signed in Germany in July 2016, is the fruit of long-standing efforts to develop innovative ingredients from the sea.

The first ingredient presented by Merck is RonaCare RenouMer. It comes from a new species of genetically identified red algae and has been selected for its action on firmness and stimulation of collagen formation. RonaCare RenouMer has been developed from the cytoplasm of red algae. Polysiphonia elongatadiscovered by Agrimer along the coast of Brittany. In the water, this algae, highly exposed to the sun, has developed survival strategies. The effects of the components of its cytoplasm, which are also beneficial to human cells, have been demonstrated in both in vitro and in vivo These compounds act on collagen formation, making skin suppler and smoother. They also help maintain skin hydration and elasticity. RonaCare RenouMer combines scientific knowledge of marine active ingredients with the desire of consumers of all ages to keep their skin looking young and fresh for as long as possible. Karl Christian Gallert, Head of Cosmetic Business at Merck, is very enthusiastic about this collaboration, declaring " This active ingredient produced from algae cytoplasm, with its natural mode of action, is the perfect complement to our dermocosmetics portfolio. ". These marine active ingredients are particularly attractive to consumers and the cosmetics industry alike, as they combine the desire for naturalness and sustainability with the fascination of the ocean's unexplored depths. The sea is one of the last secret places on our planet, and a source of as yet unknown substances for health and beauty. " This ingredient is the result of an R&D program launched five years ago. It can be considered the first major step in the development of marine active ingredients. "says André Prigent, Chairman of Agrimer. " We're delighted to be working with Merck, as our products will now be available worldwide. "

Keyence IM digital profile projector makes label inspection more reliable

Keyence - Measurement

JMD Étiquettes checks the dimensions of all the labels it produces at its Bondoufle (91) manufacturing site. Manual measuring operations are now handled by Keyence's IM series digital profile projector. In all industrial processes and throughout the supply chain, labels remain the preferred and simplest means of ensuring product or equipment traceability. In the aeronautics sector, labels are associated with all the parts that make up an aircraft, from engines to landing gear and braking systems. In this field, the level of requirements is high, as labels are subject to durability constraints and quite severe environments. The labels, generally made of steel or aluminum, are strictly dimensioned by their designers. "We must guarantee tolerances of ± 100 µm indicated on the drawings supplied by our customers."says Sylvestre Cottard, Managing Director of JMD Étiquettes.

All the operator has to do is place the label to be inspected on the board of the Keyence imaging system. The IM recognizes the part and automatically performs dimensional measurements according to predefined parameters, with an accuracy of up to 0.X µm. Measured values are transmitted via the Ethernet network to a centralized database, guaranteeing traceability of operations. At JMD Étiquettes' Bondoufle site, four people are authorized to use the profile projector. "They have only had a little training in its use, because the IM, although a high-performance measuring system, is fairly easy to learn," notes Sylvestre Cottard. The IM now inspects 300 to 400 labels a year, guaranteeing compliance with the dimensions and tolerances demanded by customers. "Previously, two people were in charge of controls. They were often overworked. Now, one person is enough for this operation. We've gained in productivity while improving the quality of measurements", concludes Sylvester Cottard.

 

Autophagy, a biological signature Silab in cosmetics

Skin - Detoxification

On Monday October 3, Japanese biologist Yoshinori Ohsumi was awarded the 2016 Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine for elucidating the biological mechanism of autophagy, a powerful process for degrading and recycling cell constituents. His research has highlighted autophagy's role in a number of pathologies and in aging.

As early as 2006, when autophagy was just background noise in dermatology, Silab's advanced research and university partnerships were deploying a research strategy to understand this machinery and its functions in the skin.

Silab and autophagy: key figures :

  • 10 years of research,
  • 4 national and international patents,
  • 2 theses and 2 partnerships with public research laboratories*,
  • 7 international communications, including 4 publications and 3 conferences,
  • 1 innovation award,
  • 1 international seminar organized by Silab on April 15, 2013 at the Maison de la Chimie, Paris.

Silab is a pioneer and innovator with unique expertise in cutaneous autophagy, based on groundbreaking biological models. This essential modeling approach is a major asset in the exploration of autophagic mechanics. As early as 2009, Silab proposed the active ingredient Celldetox, an autophagy modulator which is available and widely acclaimed on the market today. Acting on autophagy markers (lysosomes, LC3), this biotechnological active ingredient revives the radiance of intoxicated skin and smoothes microrelief after 14 days; it evens skin tone and erases wrinkles after 28 days. A genuine detoxification and cellular longevity booster, it offers new youthfulness to tired skin. In line with its strategy, Silab continues to extend its research scope to explore new autophagic pathways such as mitophagy and mitochondrial autophagy.

* EA 3842, Homéostasie Cellulaire et Pathologies, Faculté de Médecine, Limoges, France UMR 5239, Molecular Biology of the Cell Laboratory, Ecole Normale Supérieure de Lyon, CNRS - UCBL - ENS Lyon, France.

The organic cosmetics label becomes European (Cosmos) as of 01/01/2017

The family guide to essential oils: Instructions for use + basic kits, 60 essential oils in detail, over 275 formulas classified by disorder - Essential oil

Do you think there are too many organic cosmetics labels? Can't find your way around? That's perfectly normal, since there are so many different standards to choose from. But why? Because there are currently no specific government regulations applying to organic cosmetics. In 2002, Cosmebio was one of the first organizations to establish a framework for organic cosmetics, to combat "green marketing". One of the concerns of Cosmebio and its partners is to guarantee consumers in every country cosmetics that respect both people and the environment. With this in mind, 5 founding members (Cosmebio, BDIH, Ecocert, ICEA, Soil Association) have created the European Cosmos standard - with an international scope - which will be mandatory for all new organic cosmetics from January 1, 2017! In concrete terms, cosmetics bearing the Cosmebio organic label will no longer be certified under the French Bureau Veritas or Ecocert standards, but under the European Cosmos standard. The aim? Harmonize the different standards to simplify life for consumers!

What's new
There are no changes to the logo, but a new "Cosmos Organic" label has been added to the Cosmebio organic label. The Cosmos label is intended to help consumers identify organic cosmetics that meet the same requirements, from one country to another. The international scope of this standard means that 85 % of certified organic cosmetics worldwide will carry the Cosmos signature. Companies that are members of and/or certified by the founding members (Cosmebio, Ecocert, BDIH, Soil Association and ICEA) now account for the vast majority of certified products worldwide: more than 2,000 brands, distributed in over 50 countries, producing over 45,000 cosmetic products. Cosmos has a promising future!
With regard to formulation, the Cosmos Organic label will be affixed to cosmetics containing :
> 95 to 100 % of natural ingredients (as before)
> 95 to 100 % of organic ingredients out of vegetable ingredients (as before)
> Maximum of 5 % ingredients approved in a restrictive list (as before)

On the other hand, 2 new criteria have been added to the Cosmos standards, making organic cosmetics more demanding than they were before:
> Organic content of total ingredients rises from 10 to 20 %
> Biodegradability: only biodegradable ingredients are accepted.

Arcade Beauty Europe authorized for parapharmacy

COSMETICS 360 - Cosmetic industry
socoplan france

Arcade Beauty's Socoplan plant in the Deux-Sèvres region of France, which specializes in samples and single-dose cosmetics, has successfully passed tests to ensure compliance with American and Canadian regulations for the packaging of OTC beauty and skincare products in North America. These include sun creams, make-up products containing sun filters, serums, specific skin care or anti-acne treatments, as well as other specialties, sold in pharmacies and parapharmacies.

Arcade Beauty Socoplan can now guarantee beauty brands regulatory compliance on the North American market, following the control audit commissioned this summer by the US and Canadian health authorities.

In the USA and Canada, certain cosmetic products are classified as OTC (Over the Counter), over-the-counter medicines.

Two audits were successfully completed in the summer of 2016. This regulatory audit covered the assessment of compliance with Current Good Manufacturing Practices (FDA standard in the USA and Canadian standard) of all processes. It required the collaboration and energy of all the site's teams, who were heavily involved and mobilized in this project.

Combined with the ISO 22716 European cosmetics approval already held by the company, this new qualification enables Arcade Beauty Socoplan to provide brands with answers to their growing regulatory requirements.

LVMH and its Houses Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior inaugurate the Perfumed Fountains in Grasse

Perfume - Les Fontaines Parfumées

On September 15, the LVMH group inaugurated Les Fontaines Parfumées, the new perfume house jointly owned by the two groups. Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior. Located in the heart of Grasse, the estate is dedicated to showcasing the finest expertise in French haute parfumerie.

Entirely dedicated to the creation of fragrances, the Fontaines Parfumées were inaugurated by Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH, and the Maisons Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior, reunited for the first time in a unique ecosystem that federates all fragrance expertise, from the flower to the bottle. The master perfumers of the two houses, François Demachy for Christian Dior and Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud for Louis Vuitton, are returning to the land of their birth, where they grew up and were trained as noses.

By locating their creative workshop in Grasse, Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior are contributing to the preservation of the region's perfume flowers, the guarantors of exceptional creation, and perpetuating the Grasse heritage of four centuries of history and innovation. A land of excellence in perfumery, Grasse is the only site in the world that brings together the know-how of growers, craftsmen and perfumers, working in perpetual interaction at every stage of a perfume's creation.

dior_fontaines_parfumees-0577_f39-1512x1020Set in the heart of the city, Les Fontaines Parfumées is an estate emblematic of Grasse's identity and its history, from leather city to world perfume capital. Abandoned since the 1970s, the three-hundred-year-old Bastide has been given a new lease of life. The aim is twofold: to preserve its authenticity while respecting local know-how, and to bring it into the 21st century.e century.

After four years of heritage research and a year of work by local craftsmen and craftswomen, Les Fontaines Parfumées has been reborn. In addition to a high-tech perfume laboratory and a Moulin transformed into an olfactory training workshop, the estate is home to a garden with a rich plant palette: over 350 essences, including exceptional roses, tuberoses and some twenty different mints. A source of inspiration for François Demachy and Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud.

Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior have made a long-term commitment to support the growers of Grasse through the signing of privileged partnerships. Les Fontaines Parfumées will also be a place for sharing: apprentices will be welcomed and trained by the two Master Perfumers. " The inauguration of Les Fontaines Parfumées reflects our desire to perpetuate our expertise. Through the establishment of this new perfume house in Grasse, LVMH is once again committed to preserving, transmitting and promoting the best know-how in their region of origin. "said Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH.

Photos © Christian Dior Parfums - Tina Hilier

Arcade Beauty strengthens its range of "Beauty-to-Go" mini products

Cosmetics industry - Bottle

Arcade Beauty launches a global solution consisting of a mini-bottle available in three applications: Ecoroll, Dady and Minidrip. The standard glass bottle is combined with three original applicators, for three different uses, each enabling precise application and perfect dosage of the formula.

This line, developed for perfumes, skincare and fluid make-up, is ideal for beauty kits, promotional boxes, complete treatment kits and travel kits.

The bottle is made of drawn glass. Capacity varies from 1.5 to 6 ml, depending on diameter and height.

  • Ecoroll is a simplified, patented roller ball with a simple snap-on cover.
    It combines a roll-on ball, in glass, plastic or metal, whose application provides relaxation and freshness, and perfectly diffuses the formula on the skin.
    Just introduced to the market, this product is already winning over skincare and fragrance brands in its unique mini-version.
  • Dady is based on a highly innovative tigelle whose split end captures the fragrance in the bottle, increasing comfort and application quantity. This flexible stem integrates an ergonomic gripper in a single piece, guaranteeing perfect closure with a simple click.

These two new products join the already existing :

  • Minidrip is a miniature dropper featuring a collar and dip tube topped by a flexible nipple. Perfect for use with skincare products, oils, serums, etc.
    This offer is accompanied by creative marketing in terms of mini-packaging or mini-display to enhance perceived value, the gift effect or in-store presentation.

These mini products are packaged in full service in Biopack Arcade Beauty's French factory in Val-de-Reuil, France. Creative packaging (cases, cards, envelopes, etc.) is provided by Carestia Arcade Beauty in Grasse.

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