A biotechnology company, Zenakine "strengthens the skin's resilience to physical and emotional stress, improves sleep quality and reduces signs of skin fatigue and premature aging."says Croda Beauty Actives, which has studied the communication between skin and brain.

Zenakine works in sync with the skin's natural biological rhythms, boosting melatonin production to help improve sleep quality, elevating positive emotions and stimulating skin regeneration. According to Croda Beauty Actives, this is the first ingredient to have undergone instrumental clinical measurements on sleep quality and duration.

Zenakine stimulates the production of "feel-good" messengers in the skin, mitigating the damage caused by cortisol-induced stress, while modulating the skin's circadian genes to promote optimal skin physiology.

The benefits for consumers are manifold, according to Croda Beauty Actives: a more rested appearance with fewer wrinkles, smoother, more dynamic skin, better emotional balance with increased happiness, improved sleep quality and faster recovery from fatigue on waking.

The studies carried out produced the following results: feeling of happiness (1 month): +13.5 % vs. placebo, sleep quality (2 weeks): +11.3 % vs. T0; lifting effect (1 month): +13.3 % vs. placebo.

100 % of natural origin (according to ISO16128), Zenakine is easily biodegradable, RSPO and Cosmos approved.

"Our latest ingredient AmelioSense presents a revolutionary approach to treating skin irritation and redness. AmelioSense acts effectively against pyroptosis, a highly inflammatory programmed cell death, while reducing the general skin inflammation processes that lead to redness and irritated skin."says Mibelle Biochemistry.

Mibelle Biochemistry points out that recent studies have identified pyroptosis as a key factor exacerbating rosacea. This process involves activation of the inflammasome, leading to chronic inflammation and worsening of symptoms.

AmelioSense inhibits active caspase-1, the main enzyme responsible for pyroptosis, and reduces the expression of inflammatory markers. According to Mibelle Biochemistry, clinical studies have shown that AmelioSense visibly reduces the appearance of blood vessels and redness, particularly in the cheek area, offering relief and improved skin appearance for people affected by rosacea and other inflammatory skin conditions. 

To combat pyroptosis, AmelioSense combines shepherd's purse extract with a powerful liposomal antioxidant complex.

At the in-Cosmetics Global trade show in Amsterdam, April 8-10, 2025, Evonik is highlighting the innovation and holistic expertise that enable it to meet the strong demand for high-performance, environmentally-friendly personal care solutions.

Evonik leverages its biotechnology platform to drive sustainable innovation with biosolutions such as biosurfactants, biopolymers, plant collagen and ceramides. Last year, the company opened a new plant for cosmetic emollients manufactured using an enzymatic process that reduces the emollients' climate footprint by over 60 % compared with a chemical process.

Taking a holistic approach one personal care "Drawing on the company's 90 years' experience in cosmetic ingredients and 30 years' experience in active ingredients, Evonik offers customized, innovative solutions tailored to the needs of both large corporations and startups. Evonik's Skin Institute draws on a global network of skin science experts to provide specialized support in claim-based cosmetics.

Several products in the spotlight

Among Evonik's key innovations presented at in-cosmetics global 2025 is Tegosoft BC MB, an eco-friendly natural emollient that can be used in sun care and other skin applications. Vegan, entirely based on renewable resources, it is biodegradable and produced via an eco-efficient enzymatic process, giving it a lower climate footprint than the market norm.

Also featured: Rheance D50, a vegan and cruelty-free multifunctional biosurfactant made from renewable raw materials sourced in Europe. Manufactured using an environmentally-friendly fermentation process, it is suitable for certified natural cosmetics.

Vecollage Fortify GP is a skin-identical, vegan collagen polypeptide. It features a unique dual anti-aging mechanism that targets age-related collagen loss. Utilizing the power of epigenetics, it delivers anti-aging performance at a minimal level of use and can complement skincare routines during aesthetic procedures.

Dermosoft GPT MB is a natural, multifunctional antimicrobial wetting agent that expands alternative preservation options, while respecting the skin's microbiome. It is based entirely on renewable resources and produced via an environmentally-friendly catalyzed process.

Skinlipix HydraShield combines ceramides and vegetable oil-based moisturizers in an innovative ceramide stabilization system. This unique technology simplifies formulation while improving skin barrier function, hydration and moisturization.

CapilMax is a natural active ingredient designed to instantly thicken hair thanks to a unique blend of amino acids and powerful extracts. 

MaquiGlow, an advanced antioxidant derived from the maqui fruit, highlights the rich biodiversity of Patagonia, Argentina. This innovative natural active ingredient enhances skin luminosity and promotes even skin tone.

During the show, Evonik will also present a technical seminar on the theme of "Biotech in Beauty: Vegan & Skin Identical Collagen and will be giving a talk on Tegosoft BC MB in the Sustainability Zone.

_{Visual taken from the Evonik website.}

Oxi-inflammation, which particularly affects epidermal lipids, is considered one of the main causes of skin sensitivity to environmental aggressions. At in-Cosmetics Global, held in Amsterdam from April 8 to 10, 2025, French cosmetics ingredients supplier Gattefossé is announcing the launch of Noxifense, an active ingredient designed to transform the booming sensitive skin market through a 360° approach.

"The sensitive skin market is one of the most dynamic segments in skincare, stimulated by increasingly aggressive environmental factors such as UV exposure, pollution and stress. All skin types are concerned, making soothing skin care a new standard for the cosmetics industry. Over the last few years, our research team has explored the phenomenon of oxi-inflammation in depth, and has developed Noxifense, an innovative solution that protects the skin's essential lipids against deleterious oxi-inflammatory environments".explains Laurie Canel, Product Marketing Manager, Actifs Cosmétiques.

Sea buckthorn, a powerful antioxidant and inflammatory shield

As part of an upcycling approach, Gattefossé valorizes under-used sea buckthorn leaves from a family orchard in Quebec, Canada, managed under organic farming conditions.

Sea buckthorn, a versatile plant used for over 200 years in food, traditional medicine and horticulture, is particularly resilient. It thrives in extreme conditions thanks to its high content of protective polyphenols with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

"An optimized, energy-efficient extraction process has been developed to maximize the concentration of bioactive compounds. The final extract is rich in glycosylated flavonols and ellagic tannins, key molecules that contribute to Noxifense's soothing properties. This active ingredient is 100 % of natural origin, certified organic and preservative-free.says the company.

Protecting epidermal lipids from exposome aggression

According to Gattefossé, Noxifense is particularly effective in neutralizing the oxi-inflammatory environment caused by environmental aggression at the level of epidermal lipids.

Lipids play an essential protective role in the skin, but their complex structure and organization make it difficult to study them using conventional models. in vitro traditional.

"Our in-depth research program analyzes the entire oxi-inflammation process affecting epidermal lipids, from the stratum corneum to the keratinocyte membrane. We have developed innovative models that accurately simulate lipid peroxidation in the stratum corneum and viable epidermis under various external stresses (UV, pollution, cigarette smoke). These models were essential in demonstrating Noxifense's ability to break the oxi-inflammation cycle, says Chloé Lorion, skin biology R&D engineer.

Thanks to a dual mechanism of action, Noxifense inhibits the NF-kB pathway to limit inflammation while reinforcing the skin's antioxidant defense system, significantly reducing intracellular ROS levels.

Gattefossé reports that Noxifense significantly reduced skin sensitivity and improved overall comfort, texture and radiance in a clinical study of Asian volunteers with sensitive skin. The active ingredient significantly reduced skin sensitivity and improved overall comfort, texture and radiance.

At the in-Cosmetics Global trade show to be held from April 8 to 10, 2025 in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, Laboratoires Expanscience will be presenting the new hair care properties of three of its flagship natural active ingredients: Soline Bio, Ormesia and Pixalia. This breakthrough is in line with the trend towards hair skinification and with the company's CSR strategy, in line with its "impACT" roadmap, which aims to make Expanscience a regenerative company by 2040.

Soline Bio, Ormesia and Pixalia are already recognized for their actions on the skin. These active ingredients have been re-targeted to meet the hair care challenges posed by climate change, notably global warming and increased environmental pollution.

Soline Bio, an organic sunflower oil concentrate, sourced in France and rich in unsaponifiables, has already proven its benefits on the skin by reinforcing key skin lipids, notably ceramides, for immediate and long-lasting hydration. New tests ex-vivo Expanscience confirms that Soline Bio protects hair from the harmful effects of the sun and salt water (summer stress). By protecting the scales, Soline Bio facilitates detangling, adds softness and suppleness, while significantly reducing breakage. Hair is silkier and lastingly protected.

Ormesia is an upcycled extract of maracuja seeds, sourced in Peru and rich in polyphenols. It has proven its effectiveness in protecting the skin from the deleterious effects of pollution and UV rays, by stimulating its natural self-defense mechanisms. Applied to hair care products, this active ingredient acts as an anti-pollution shield. "Ex-vivo tested on strands damaged by Arizona Dust¹It preserves hair shine and vitality while ensuring better color hold for color-treated hair, right from the 1st wash.says Laboratoires Expanscience. What's more, it helps strengthen the hair fiber, reducing breakage.

Pixalia, extracted from Cleome gynandra leaves and rich in polyphenols, acts to rebalance the skin's microbiota, in particular by acting on the specific lipids that mark acne. For dry skin, it regulates sebum production and quality. Applied to scalp care, Pixalia promotes a healthy microbiota by specifically targeting Malassezia restricta.²one of the main yeasts responsible for dandruff formation. It helps maintain a soothed, purified and healthy scalp. "After 28 days of use, 90.3 % of those surveyed found that dandruff was less visible, and 77.4 % felt less stressed by the condition of their scalp.³ "says Laboratoires Expanscience.

Each year, 1% of Pixalia's sales are donated to the Joséphine association, France's leading network of community beauty salons.

"With Soline Bio, Ormesia and Pixalia, we are reaffirming our commitment to ever more sustainable, innovative and high-performance cosmetics. By capitalizing on our scientific studies on the skin, we are adding value to these active ingredients by complementing their efficacy to explore all their benefits. It's a responsible, meaningful and effective approach that meets market expectations while reducing our environmental impact.says Armelle Le Peniec, Director of Cosmetic Active Ingredients at Laboratoires Expanscience.