Cosmetic Valley unveils the six finalists of "The Cosmetic Victories" competition

4 April 2025

Open to anyone with an innovative project applicable to the perfumery and cosmetics industry, "The Cosmetic Victories" international competition has set itself the triple objective of identifying innovative start-ups, supporting their projects and promoting research.

Out of 94 projects submitted from 21 countries, six finalists were selected for this 10th edition by a jury of international scientific experts. What did they have in common? To propose major breakthroughs applicable to the entire value chain of the sector, from the use of natural ingredients to optimize product performance, to the study of the impact of the environment on ageing, via, for example, an understanding of the sensorial and emotional impact of the product. This vintage confirms the central role of science in tomorrow's cosmetics, in line with the Cosmetic 360 2025 theme: AI at the heart of innovation.

The two winners - one in each category - will be announced at the awards ceremony organized by Cosmetic Valley on Tuesday May 20, 2025.

The three finalists in the Industrial Innovation category are :

- Netri (France) for its project "Neurons as sensors: a way of digitizing human biology".
Thanks to its NeoBento platforms coupled with hiPSC neurons to innervate skin cells, and the use of neurons as a natural biosensor of a biological effect, Netri has been able to demonstrate that the digital signatures (recordings of neuronal activity) of different ingredients can predict their efficacy. By extracting the digital signature and comparing it with the digital signatures of reference compounds, it becomes possible to predict the efficacy of any ingredient.

- Loretta (France) for her project "Creation of a nanometric digital skin twin using AFM and AI".
Their project aims to create a Digital Skin Twin based on skin nanotexture, combining high-speed AFM and AI for ultra-precise analysis. Supported by a partnership between a company, a university and international dermatologists, it will make it possible to exploit a diverse panel of samples. The aim is to link the nanometric characteristics of skin to its chemical composition, to revolutionize dermatological and cosmetic studies on a global scale.

- Byome Labs (France) for its project "Rapid analysis of the skin microbiome and recommendation of a personalized 100 % beauty routine".
Byome Labs brings an innovation that combines microbiology, immunology, genetic engineering and artificial intelligence. Its solution measures and analyzes the skin microbiome in less than three minutes, directly at the point of sale or in the office. Thanks to a system of antigenic strips and AI developed with dermatologists, the solution developed by the company offers cosmetics and dermo-cosmetics brands a powerful tool for recommending products specifically compatible with each individual's skin. By democratizing access to microbiome analysis, it promotes a more precise, sustainable and effective approach to beauty, while limiting the waste of unsuitable products.

The three finalists in the Academic Research category are :

- Department of Agricultural Sciences - University of Naples Federico Ii (Italy) for its project "Exosomes derived from Lactobacillus: a microbiota-friendly approach to antioxidant protection, skin barrier reinforcement and tissue regeneration".
Exosomes, nano-sized extracellular vesicles, are increasingly used in dermatology for their ability to transport bioactive molecules. This project focuses on exosomes derived from Lactiplantibacillus plantaruma bacterium present on the skin, which demonstrates antioxidant properties, helps strengthen the skin barrier and promotes tissue regeneration. These discoveries could lead to new natural solutions for skin protection and repair.

- Stanford University (USA) for its project "How does the activation of sensory neurons by the use of a cosmetic product modulate perception?"
Sensory perception following the application of a product is often reported in subjective terms. For example, the sensation of "tightness" of the skin after using a cleanser, or of "softness" after applying a moisturizer. Stanford University proposes a quantitative approach that combines biomechanical tests in vitroa model of neuronal stimulation and a study of the in vivo complete. The aim of her work is to demonstrate how cutaneous biomechanical changes following the use of a cosmetic product are involved in sensory perception.

- Institut de Biochimie et Génétique Cellulaires, CNRS UMR5095 (France) for its project "L'instabilité naturelle des protéines comme biomarqueur du vieillissement" ("Natural protein instability as a biomarker of aging").
The CNRS team is exploring an innovative approach to measuring the impact of the exposome on skin aging. Specializing in the spontaneous degradation of proteins due to chemical reactions altering their structure and function, the researchers aim to demonstrate that this phenomenon could serve as a precise indicator for assessing the effects of the environment on the skin. The identification of specific proteins as new biomarkers of aging could pave the way for better prevention and adapted cosmetic solutions.

Unilever acquires Wild

The editorial staff

3 April 2025

Launched in the UK in 2020, Wild is a DNVB (Digital Native Vertical Brand), which offers natural and refillable products, with a sales model combining online, direct sales and retail, mainly in the UK, Europe and the USA.

The brand's deodorants, lip balms, body and hand care products are made from plant-based ingredients and packaged in unique plastic-free materials.

Wild's rapid growth, distinctive premium offering across all personal care categories and position as the UK's number one refillable deodorant brand make it a strategic addition to Unilever's existing portfolio of personal care brands.

"We are delighted to welcome Wild to the Unilever family. The brand's innovative approach to formulation and packaging, as well as social marketing, have made Wild an incomparably superior brand and a perfect complement to our personal care portfolio."says Fabian Garcia, President of Unilever Personal Care.

"The arrival of Unilever marks an exciting new chapter for Wild. Our mission to eliminate single-use plastic from the bathroom through desirable and innovative personal care products will be significantly strengthened by Unilever's expertise, scale and reach, which will enable us to grow the brand and share our vision with more consumers."says Charlie Bowes-Lyon, co-founder of Wild.

Elcimaï delivers a 31,000 m² production site near Troyes to Clarins

The editorial staff

3 April 2025

Clarins now has a second production site. Located in Sainte-Savine, in the Grand Troyes park (10), it was built by the Elcimaï group, a specialist in industrial and logistics engineering, particularly in the cosmetics sector.

Complementing Clarins' existing facility in Pontoise (95), this new site will further secure Clarins' production in France, and provide the Group with the capacity it needs to develop its product offering.

Developed on a 12-hectare site, it includes manufacturing, packaging and storage facilities, as well as administrative offices and a control laboratory covering an area of 31,000 m². The aim is to eventually produce 100 million units a year, the equivalent of the existing site in the Paris region.

This site is part of Clarins' commitment to CSR and reflects its ambition to "make life more beautiful, and pass on a more beautiful world".

"To ensure that the site is in line with the Clarins Group's CSR commitments, Elcimaï proposed the implementation of strong decarbonization solutions: geothermal energy to heat and cool the building, photovoltaic panels to produce electricity and domestic hot water, a rainwater recovery system, an industrial wastewater treatment plant and the reuse of waste heat.explains Jean-Pierre Fradin, Technical Director of Elcimaï Ingénierie. The site thus meets HQE excellent and Breeam very good criteria.

Completed in 19 months, this second plant represents a total investment of around 135 million euros, and is expected to create 300 jobs.

Bormioli Luigi designs the bottle for Armani's Acqua di Giò Elixir

The editorial staff

2 April 2025

Armani's new men's fragrance Acqua di Giò Elixir, composed by Alberto Morillas, is the most concentrated fragrance in the collection. It aims to embody "modern man and extreme sophistication."

For this fragrance, Armani wanted a bottle that evoked the paroxysm of depth. The brand entrusted Bormioli Luigi with its creation. Technical and industrial challenges were met to develop a container (in 50 ml format) whose deep decoration evokes the concentration of obsidian.

Bormioli Luigi has created a sober silhouette whose square base is slightly rounded to draw the eye into the depths of the material. The silver logo is discreetly integrated. To produce such a shape, the Italian glassmaker had to find the exact dosage of material to obtain the right balance and perfect geometry between the thickness of the base and the lightness of the piece.

The intense black hue is achieved by Inside interior lacquering, Bormioli Luigi's signature decoration. It is reminiscent of the rare obsidian stone that evokes hidden luxury and repels negative energies. The choice of the Inside technique and the choice of black were conditioned by minute compatibility tests between the lacquer and the particularly concentrated juice. The black and silver silkscreen patterns reflect the light back at them.

Cosmetic Valley and Essec partners

The editorial staff

2 April 2025

Partnership COSMETIC VALLEY ESSEC 28_03_2025

Cosmetic Valley, competitiveness cluster and coordinator of the French perfume and cosmetics industry, announces a strategic partnership with the Beauty Chair at Essec Business School. This collaboration will strengthen the links between academia and industry, to help train future decision-makers in the sector and support innovation in a constantly evolving market.

Cosmetic Valley will lend its expertise to the Chair's students, providing them with an in-depth understanding of the issues and challenges facing the cosmetics industry, particularly at international level - technological, ecological, digital and geopolitical.

Thanks to its academic expertise and research capabilities, the Essec Beauty Chair will be taking part in the discussions surrounding the future Maison Internationale de la Cosmétique in Chartres, an emblematic project designed to promote the excellence of French know-how in this field.

"Finally, at a time when the future of the cosmetics industry is being shaped by regulatory changes in Europe, tax changes in America, and competitive changes in Asia, Cosmetic Valley and the Essec Beauty Chair will be jointly publishing market studies on the evolution of the global cosmetics sector, emerging trends and major issues for industry professionals.say the two actors.

This partnership illustrates the shared determination of Cosmetic Valley and Essec to prepare the talents of tomorrow and actively contribute to the development of a key sector of the French economy.

"An essential part of the French industry, subject to new competition and increasingly stringent regulations, the cosmetics sector needs sensors and indicators, to master market trends and accelerate research results. Know-how and the art of living are no longer enough to aim for excellence. Innovation and information are essential. Essec will provide them.says Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley.

"We are delighted to strengthen our partnership with Cosmetic Valley. We share common values and objectives. Our ambition is to produce and share knowledge to help our members and students develop innovative and sustainable activities, i.e. those that are economically viable, respect people and our natural environment, and create value for our companies over the long term".says Marc Mazodier, Professor of Marketing and holder of the Essec Beauty Chair.

_{Photo: from left to right, Julien Malaurent, Deputy Managing Director of Essec, Marc Mazodier, Essec Beauty Chair, Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley and General Secretary of LVMH, and Christophe Masson, Managing Director of Cosmetic Valley.}

Persán acquires Mibelle Group

The editorial staff

1 April 2025

Multinational Persán S.A. (sales €862 million, 2,000 employees), a leading European manufacturer of household cleaning products, has announced the acquisition of Mibelle Group, a subsidiary of Swiss retail giant Migros. This strategic acquisition includes all Mibelle Group entities and employees (with the exception of Mibelle's former South Korean subsidiary, Gowoonsesang, already acquired by the L'Oréal Group).

This acquisition enables Persán, based in Seville, Spain, to strengthen its international presence, particularly in the personal care sector, and to exceed one billion euros in sales, thus becoming a major global player in private label and contract manufacturing. For Migros, this sale is part of a strategy to refocus on its core business.

Mibelle Biochemistry, the division specializing in the development of active ingredients for the cosmetics and nutraceutical industries, is also included in the acquisition. According to the company, this transaction fits perfectly with Persán's future growth strategy, as the two companies complement each other in terms of expertise, technology, markets and production sites.

The transaction is expected to be finalized by the end of April 2025.

_{Photo from Mibelle Group's LinkedIn profile.}

Roquette Beauté launches a sensory powder

The editorial staff

1 April 2025

At in-cosmetics Global, to be held in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, from April 8 to 10, 2025, Roquette Beauté unveiled its new ingredient, Beauté by Roquette ST 305, an alternative to mineral and synthetic powders.

Beauté by Roquette ST 305 (Inci Amylopectin), responds to market trends and consumer demand for longer-lasting, high-performance cosmetics. This ingredient, derived from GMO-free waxy corn starch, comes in the form of a biodegradable white sensory powder, free from talc and nanoparticles.

Beauté by Roquette ST 305 boasts a patent-pending porous structure obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis, giving it exceptional compacting properties compared with other natural powders on the market.

The sensory and compaction properties of Beauté by Roquette ST 305, as well as its affinity with various oils and water, give cosmetics formulators the flexibility to create innovative, high-performance products in a wide range of cosmetic applications, including make-up, skin care, hygiene products, hair care and fragrances, in either loose or compact formats.

Maintaining color integrity

Beauté by Roquette ST 305 stands out for its ability to maintain color integrity. Roquette Beauté states that "during tests¹This ingredient has demonstrated superior color retention, outperforming native corn starch and matching the performance of talc and porous silica beads. This benefit minimizes the need for additional pigments, making it an economical and attractive solution for make-up products. In addition, Beauté by Roquette ST 305¹ is brighter than talc, silica and porous silica, while being less yellow than other natural sensory powders derived from native corn starch."

Matte finish and shine control

Beauté by Roquette ST 305 has the ideal mattifying power for cosmetics with a matte finish, such as lipsticks. Test results² have demonstrated, according to Roquette Beauté, that "this sensory powder significantly reduces shine, providing a flawless matte finish to make-up products. In foundation formulas, Beauté by Roquette ST 305 reduced shine by 96 % compared with a placebo.³. "

According to Roquette Beauté, its sebum absorption capacity³ are also superior to those of native corn starch and silica beads, and comparable to those of poly methyl methacrylate (PMMA).

What's more, at a concentration of 65 % in a loose powder formulation, Beauté by Roquette ST 305 proved capable of smoothing crow's feet, blurring the eye contour and improving skin texture, guaranteeing a flawless, youthful appearance.

"We are very proud to add Beauté by Roquette ST 305 to our range.says Bénédicte Courel, General Manager of Roquette Beauté. This new ingredient is a real game-changer, responding to the growing demand from the cosmetics industry for high-quality plant-derived ingredients. The exceptional sensory and compaction properties of Beauté by Roquette ST 305, and its affinity with various oils and water, give formulators the flexibility to create high-performance products in a wide variety of cosmetic applications."

The Roquette Beauté team has designed exclusive formulations highlighting Beauté by Roquette ST 305, to enable visitors to in-Cosmetics Global to discover the sensory and compaction properties of this new ingredient on their stand 5D130.

_{1. The impact of sensory powders on the color and brightness of a formula was measured using a BYK spectrophotometer. L represents color brightness on a scale from 0 to 100.}

_{2. The cling test was measured using the Byko-Charts protocol.}

_{3. For the study of sebum absorption, sebum was modeled by caprylic/capric triglyceride oil. This oil was chosen because it approximates the natural oils produced by the skin, enabling a realistic assessment of the powder's performance in controlling shine and maintaining a matte finish.}

Esxence 2025: a success!

The editorial staff

March 31, 2025

The 15th edition of Esxence - The Art Perfumery Event, an international event dedicated to artistic perfumery, was held from February 19 to 22, 2025 in Milan, Italy.

According to its organizers, this year's event was a great success: some 13,500 participants from all over the world were able to admire a line-up of 384 brands from 38 countries, and attend several events, round tables and conferences that were also open to the public. Many young people attended the event.

Edition after edition, Esxence has proved to be an important meeting place for discovering new trends in artistic perfumery. In terms of olfactory notes, exotic fruits - such as mango, pineapple, banana and maracuja - were in the spotlight.

Asian brands, particularly those from South Korea, Vietnam, China, Singapore and Japan, were increasingly present, taking participants on a fascinating journey through distant traditions and cultures.

New formats for well-known fragrances were also presented, confirming a growing trend: the search for practical, easy-to-carry formats, so you can always have your favorite fragrance with you.

Synthetic molecules, which have long suffered from a bad reputation and have sometimes been considered a taboo, are now not only fully integrated into many compositions, but are also displayed within olfactory pyramids.

Finally, the event demonstrated that the trend is consolidating in favor of a state of inner well-being and psychophysical balance, by no longer limiting oneself to wearing a single fragrance as an olfactory signature, but changing fragrances according to one's mood.

"This 15th edition was the most successful ever, points out Maurizio Cavezzali, co-founder of Esxence and CEO of Equipe Exibit, thanks not only to the content on offer, but also to the quality of the participants, all of whom were extremely well prepared and attentive to emerging trends. This year, there was a significant improvement in stand space, with a 30 % increase in demand for bare space, a clear sign of maturity on the part of brands, who have invested even more in originality and creativity in the presentation of their products. It's not just the fragrances, bottles and packaging that shine with their uniqueness, but also the entire concept and communication, which play a central role in the creative process, telling fascinating, far-flung stories, arousing deep, engaging emotions. We had the opportunity to see a greengrocer's counter, vending machines, an old-fashioned train carriage, a beautiful antique library and walls that realistically tell the story of certain brands. "

"In 18 years and 15 editions of Esxence, we have become an essential international reference point and central event, able to offer growth opportunities to brands of all nationalities. We have nurtured new markets, with motivated retailers who have subsequently given rise to structured forms of specialized distribution.says Silvio Levi, co-founder of Esxence and director of Essencional, who organized and coordinated the workshops and conferences with the Exibit team. I'm particularly proud of this edition of Esxence, which confirms the extraordinary dynamism of the market and the capacity for innovation that will shape the sector over the next decade. In addition to being a launch and business development platform, Esxence provides visitors and operators with content, analysis and information tools, facilitating knowledge between cultural institutions, opinion leaders and ensuring constant comparison, with the aim of nurturing and evolving our market."

Esxence 2025, in brief

Some 13,500 participants
384 brands, divided into 107 main brands and 277 flagship brands
38 brand countries of origin (including some new entries: Thailand, Barbados, Lithuania and Latvia)
17,400 m2 of exhibition space
70 % of foreign exhibitors out of total number of exhibitors
76 % of operators out of total visitors
43 foreign operators from Brazil, China, South Korea, the United Arab Emirates, Japan, India, Mexico and the United States, thanks to the support of the ITA - Italian Trade Agency.
24 conferences and meetings hosted by some of the world's most renowned experts.

Valentino Beauty chooses Aptar Beauty's Classic Inune pump

The editorial staff

March 31, 2025

All seven fragrances (30 ml and 100 ml sizes) in Anatomy of Dreams, Valentino Beauty's new fragrance collection inspired by the hedonistic spirit of Rome, are equipped with the Classic Inune prestige fragrance pump from dispensing systems specialist Aptar Beauty.

Both the pump and the stepped ring are manufactured and decorated in Aptar Beauty's French factories.

The decoration reflects the expertise of the brand, part of the L'Oréal group's luxury division, and the collection's unique fragrance stories, which evoke memories of Italy and contemporary times. The components are tone-anodized, and the push-button is adorned with a laser-engraved 'V' after the anodizing process, revealing the natural color of the aluminum.

"Classic Inune is a best-seller in our portfolio of prestige perfume pumps. It's winning over more and more luxury houses looking for high-end, high-performance solutions that can adapt to their different collection styles while preserving their brand image".says Louise Maillot, head of the Pompes Parfums Prestige EMEA platform at Aptar Beauty.

A pump compatible with customization trends

The seven fragrances in the collection can be enhanced with two fragrance enhancers (30 ml), which can be layered or worn alone. Both enhancers use the same pump.

According to Aptar Beauty, Classic Inune's precise spray pattern lends itself perfectly to the "layering" gesture - a growing trend among fragrance consumers who personalize their fragrances as an integral part of their identity*.

"Consumers create their own bespoke fragrances with 'layering'. Collections like Anatomy of Dreams encourage them to experiment, creating more engagement with the product. Classic Inune gives them the opportunity to personalize their fragrance by helping them mix, match and explore scents, adding precise and quick fragrance touches."says Sophie Magdelaine, Senior Marketing Manager, Global Fragrance Platform, Aptar Beauty.

Suitable for the prestige market, the Classic Inune pump features an elegant, timeless design with clean, pure lines and an SNI15 neck. With its invisible, robust mechanism, it delivers a soft, fine spray, with a short spray and a 30° angle of distribution.

Classic Inune is compatible with a wide variety of formulas, including some without alcohol. The pump prevents any contact between juice and metal, preserving the olfactory neutrality of the non-genre fragrances in the Anatomy of Dreams collection.

Made without POM²Like the entire Inune range, Classic Inune can be recycled in the glass recycling stream (subject to local capacity).

_{1. Source: Mintel Report 'A year of innovation for fragrances 2024'.}_{2. Polyoxymethylene}

Lush supports the protection of key species

The editorial staff

March 28, 2025

hutan_bath_bomb_giving_campaign_hero_2025_2

Keystone species play a crucial role in maintaining the structure of ecological communities and global biodiversity. The cosmetics company Lush intends to support the protection of these species with a new range of products: Lush Giving. The sale of these products raises funds for projects aimed at protecting key species in priority ecosystems.

The first product in this initiative, the Hutan bath bomb (whose name comes from the Indonesian word for "forest"), launched in mid-March and available in stores throughout the month, will help preserve the primary rainforests of Simeulue, Indonesia, a vital habitat for many endangered wildlife species such as the crab-eating macaque.

75% of the sales price (excluding tax) of this bath bomb - made from revitalizing bergamot oil, sourced from citrus growers in Calabria with whom Lush has collaborated for over ten years - will be donated to EcosystemImpact, a non-profit foundation in Indonesia that studies environmental conversation issues in Sumatra.

EcosystemImpact will be working with. local organizations, including the Long-Tailed Macaque Project, to run a three-year project focused on protecting the primary forests and rich biodiversity of Simeulue Island.

The funds raised will support work to monitor the forest, establish regenerative agriculture and combat poaching and human-crab macaque conflicts on the island.

"Protecting wildlife and its natural habitat is more than preventing its extinction; it's preserving planet Earth as a home where we can, together, live side by side".explains Silvi Dwi Anasari, Community Ranger Coordinator for the EcosystemImpact Foundation.

1...345...249 Page 4 sur 249

Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery

Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery

Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery

Cosmetic Valley unveils the six finalists of "The Cosmetic Victories" competition

Unilever acquires Wild

Elcimaï delivers a 31,000 m² production site near Troyes to Clarins

Bormioli Luigi designs the bottle for Armani's Acqua di Giò Elixir

Cosmetic Valley and Essec partners

Persán acquires Mibelle Group

Roquette Beauté launches a sensory powder

Maintaining color integrity

Matte finish and shine control

Esxence 2025: a success!

Valentino Beauty chooses Aptar Beauty's Classic Inune pump

A pump compatible with customization trends

Lush supports the protection of key species

Our last issue

Listen to us!

Consult our media kit

Newsletter

Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery