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Exsymol's Expertise at in-cosmetics Global: Silicium and its Adaptogenic Properties for the Skin

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The editorial staff
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SILICIUM AS AN ADAPTOGENIC TRACE ELEMENT FOR THE SKIN (Card (148 x 105 mm)) - 2

Exsymol will be presenting an exclusive conference at in-cosmetics Global, exploring a new way to approach silicium as an adaptogenic trace element for the skin. On Tuesday, April 9, theatre 2 at 16:25, attendees will gain valuable insights into how silicium naturally helps the skin adapt to stress and maintain its optimal function. Inspired by its role in plants, silicium demonstrates a biomimetic action that strengthens the skin's architecture and supports cellular activity against various stressors such as aging, environmental aggressors, and psychological stress.

This conference, led by Emmanuel Coste, will provide a fresh perspective on silicium and its potential to awaken skin natural intelligence.

Innovation Zone: Discover Alistisilane

Exsymol will also showcase its latest innovation, Alistisilane, at the Innovation Zone. This cutting-edge ingredient represents a major step forward in silicium technology with the introduction of a new complex for skincare. Developed from extensive research, Alistisilane is designed to optimize jowl ptosis correction, better face definition but also to improve skin contour remodelling and skin lift. Exsymol's Silanol range enhances the synergy between adaptogenic silicium and key cosmetic molecules, improving their efficacy and bioavailability to provide customized solutions for any cosmetic formulation.

Experience Exsymol's Formula Bar on stand 5D54

Visitors can explore Exsymol's latest formulations at their Formula Bar directly on stand 5D54, where innovative ingredients will be presented in unique and effective skincare applications.

Moreover, beyond the conference, visitors are invited to Stand 5D54 to continue the discussion with our scientific experts. Exsymol's team will be available to share expertise and the latest advancements in silicium-based solutions, but also peptide technology!

Exsymol looks forward to welcoming industry professionals at in-cosmetics Global for an inspiring and informative experience, where innovation meets wellbeing!

For more details or to schedule a meeting, contact [email protected] or directly visit Stand 5D54!

Faber-Castell Cosmetics: enriched make-up products

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The editorial staff
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Faber-Castell Cosmetics - Aware Product Range

"Aware represents a new generation of beauty - conscious beauty. Aware of the moment. Aware of ingredients. Conscious of what people give their skin and their soul. Inspired by beauty rituals from around the world, Aware is an invitation to reconnect with one's own well-being, transforming every step of a beauty routine into a moment of attentive care."says Faber-Castell Cosmetics.

Presented at Cosmopack Bologna (March 20-22, 2025), the Aware range includes enriched products, responding to the trend for multifunctional products that save time and improve appearance and well-being.

The collection includes a color and care lipstick clinically proven to significantly reduce the depth of wrinkles on the lips, with a positive impact observed in 70 % of participants according to Faber-Castell Cosmetics. Enriched with avocado oil, vitamin E, MaxiLip and Hyaluronic Filling Spheres, this lipstick boasts a natural origin index (NOI) of 98 %. 

The collection also includes a matching lipliner infused with ginger extract, known for its anti-inflammatory properties and ability to promote blood circulation, resulting in fuller-looking lips. 

Aware also includes a corrector formulated with zinc, which has anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, and Q10, which offers antioxidant protection and strengthens the skin barrier, improving skin's appearance and reducing fine lines. 

A silicone-free, super-intense and highly pigmented eyeliner is also on offer. It's infused with coffee extract, stimulating circulation to give the eye area a fresher look and anti-inflammatory benefits. 

Finally, the set is completed by a nail care pencil with a subtle vanilla fragrance and an NOI of 99 %. The oil complex nourishes nails and cuticles, keeps them soft and, according to Faber-Castell Cosmetics, provides antioxidant benefits and supports the skin barrier and nail protection.

Berlin Packaging presents its new products at Cosmoprof Bologna

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The editorial staff
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01_Airlight Refill - Berlin Packaging

Berlin Packaging, which describes itself as "The world's largest Hybrid Packaging Supplier of glass, plastic and metal containers and closures".presents its new products at Cosmoprof Bologna 2025. Among the main new products presented are a glass-free version of AirLight Refill and two new formats in the Foamy line, the first glass foamer now also available in a travel-size version.

"Cosmoprof is a key event for Berlin Packaging Beauty, an opportunity to showcase the fruits of our commitment to innovation and sustainable development, says Vivien Charrey, Managing Director of Berlin Packaging Beauty. With AirLight Refill, the new Foamy and the ongoing development of our fragrance collections, we are confirming our ability to offer cutting-edge, durable and distinctive packaging that meets the needs of an ever-changing market."

AirLight Refill: lightweight and recyclable for an intuitive refill experience 

The AirLight Refill collection marks a new milestone for airless packaging from Berlin Packaging Beauty. For the first time, one of the brand's most iconic offerings is produced in a glass-free version, using recyclable plastics and post-consumer recycled PET.

The sustainable approach is at the heart of the project: five out of eight components are reusable, while the three components that are replaced with each refill are fully recyclable for perfect packaging circularity. The pump, designed to last up to 25 refills, extends the product's life cycle, reducing waste.

The gesture is simple: the design is conceived for fast, convenient recharging in a functional, user-friendly container.

Studio One Eleven, Berlin Packaging's innovation engine, has highlighted the innovative AirLight Refill concept with semi-transparent finishes that give a glimpse of the packaging's durable structure, while the cerulean blue color, inspired by the lightness of air and the purity of clouds, underlines the concept of "air-lightness".

Foamy 30 and 50 ml: the glass foamer now in travel-size format

Following the success of Foamy 150 ml, Berlin Packaging Beauty has extended the range with two new 30 and 50 ml formats, offering the first glass solution for foaming formulas in travel-size versions. The refillable design and glass construction make Foamy a solution for brands wishing to combine premium aesthetics with reduced environmental impact.

Thanks to its wide neck, the system is designed for easy reuse, guaranteeing up to 25 refills. The line can also be combined with Sashi, the single-material PE pouch designed for recycling. What's more, thanks to its light weight, the latter is able to reduce transport volume, logistics costs and CO₂ emissions.

Exclusive proposals for perfumeries

In the perfumery sector, Berlin Packaging Beauty offers a complete range of bottles featuring unique and versatile designs, ready to be customized with the most advanced decoration technologies, including 3D inkjet printing, which takes personalization to a new level.

The range of packaging for the fragrance world extends from sleek, contemporary shapes like Heko and Herve, to apothecary-style designs like Infusion and Himiko, to more distinctive proposals like Moon and Euphoria, or classics like Virage and Cilindro. Each collection is designed to suit different market segments, guaranteeing versatility and uniqueness in design. A wide range of materials can also be combined for the design of accessories, such as zamak, wood and resin, in addition to the classic standard plastic and aluminum capsules.

Berlin Packaging Beauty's proposition for the fragrance market is not limited to personal perfumery, but also includes a wide range dedicated to home fragrance, with specific solutions for stick diffusers, room sprays and candles. Studio One Eleven supports brands in the design of exclusive packaging, covering both primary and secondary packaging, with a service ranging from industrialization to graphic design and product branding.

Berlin Packaging Beauty offers 360° customer service, which is also reflected in Stocksmetic, the company's exclusive online packaging distributor, designed to meet the needs of emerging brands, laboratories and fillers looking for fast, reliable solutions. Stocksmetic offers a flexible sales model, making it possible to purchase packaging from a single item up to the entire stock, with fast delivery and the possibility of customization from 200 pieces.

Groupe Verpack expands in Tunisia

By
The editorial staff
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Website Tunisia ©Verpack

The Verpack Group designs, develops and packages folding cartons and carton boxes for the premium beauty, wine & spirits, fashion and delicatessen markets. 

Of its six sites, five are in France. The sixth is in Sousse, Tunisia. Managed by a Franco-Tunisian team, this manual assembly and trimming operation has just moved into its new quarters on a 5,500 m2 site which formerly housed the zipper production facility of Japanese manufacturer YKK.

Verpack customized the building to its image and functional requirements. Since the beginning of the year, the 180 team members at Sousse have been working in optimal conditions, as the site can accommodate up to 400 operators. Taking advantage of the local textile industry's long history, Sousse's workers are all qualified and accustomed to high quality standards for precise, meticulous work. The site has been awarded bronze by EcoVadis and intends to continue its progress.

A short, safe circuit 

The Verpack Group confirms its choice of Tunisia for its expertise and proximity. The geographical position and organization of the workshop contribute to this. 

The materials, all sourced (FSC) and processed at the Group's French sites, are shipped to Tunisia in just a few days. For the return trip to France, the site is "under customs control", which facilitates logistics. On site, a customs officer validates the load and seals the truck for direct delivery to the customer without any further interaction. These logistics guarantee efficiency and security.

In-line centrifugal screeners

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The editorial staff
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Gericke screening machines

The manufacture of powders or granules often includes a sieving stage to make a granulometric cut, or as a safety measure to eliminate undesirable particles.

Food, chemicals, minerals... Gericke centrifugal sifters have been used in all industrial sectors for over 70 years.

They are mostly gravity-fed by upstream equipment such as screws, feeders, sluices, vibrating tubes, etc.

Gericke also offers a range of centrifugal sifters that can be inserted into a pneumatic conveying line in dilute-phase pressure or vacuum. This less common configuration offers several advantages. In particular, the sieve shaker can be placed anywhere on the pneumatic conveying line, making it easy to install.

What's more, there's no need for a screen feeder. A further advantage is the automatic removal of rejects from the screening chamber.

The system is compact even for throughputs of several tens of tons per hour, and a single in-line screener can be sufficient to screen different products from different starting points.

Gericke's screening machines are available in a wide range of designs to meet the needs and requirements of industrial users.

The Group's test stations are equipped with an in-line sieve shaker on a dilute-phase pneumatic conveying line.

Fedrigoni rewarded for its ESG performance

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The editorial staff
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Fedrigoni headquarters

The Fedrigoni Group, a global specialist in specialty papers, has had its ESG (Environment, Social and Governance) performance recognized by Standard & Poor's prestigious Global ESG Score, with a rating of 74, up 10 points on 2023.

"We are proud to be included once again in S&P's prestigious Sustainability Policy Rankings, with a significant increase in our ranking.said Marco Nespolo, Fedrigoni's Managing Director. I can only thank all our teams, as attention to these practices has for years permeated our every move, every decision and the Group's entire strategy. We are committed to tracking progress in reducing CO₂ emissions, water consumption, waste management, accelerating sustainability-driven innovation, preventing workplace accidents, fostering an inclusive learning-centered environment, and creating value for the communities in which the Group operates."

According to the evaluation committee, the best results were achieved in the social field (+15 points): programs for the protection of human rights, employment development, health and safety at work, and relations with reference communities were particularly appreciated.

In the area of economics and governance, the focus has been on transparent sustainability reporting, ESG assessment of the supply chain, and attention to emerging risks and cybersecurity.

Continued progress in the environment

In the environmental field, where the company had already posted a solid performance (score of 68 in 2023), Fedrigoni's initiatives were particularly praised, notably its climate strategies, its actions in favor of biodiversity and the development of products with an increasingly circular approach.

"Making Progress" is the approach chosen by the Fedrigoni Group. It is based on transparency, objective data, third-party verified results and a shared responsibility by all to achieve the 2030 targets. Among these, the key objective is to ensure that 100 % of materials are designed for optimal recyclability and end-of-life recovery, with a Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) available on request and supported by recognized external certifications. 

This long-term corporate vision has led Fedrigoni to design innovative projects to facilitate the replacement of single-use plastics by paper-based solutions, for example, or to devise solutions for self-adhesive labels aimed at improving the recyclability of primary components on an industrial scale.

Cosmed turns to artificial intelligence

By
The editorial staff
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technology-7111799_1280

After 15 months of preparation, Cosmed, the trade association representing the French cosmetics industry and bringing together 1,030 member companies, is deploying its generative artificial intelligence tools across all its activities. 

This innovative initiative is designed to boost business support and energize the cosmetics industry ecosystem. All sectors and functions of the industry, including marketing, R&D, regulatory affairs, export, production and purchasing, will benefit from this breakthrough.

To support this approach, an initial budget of 500,000 euros over two years was unanimously adopted by the Board of Directors, with a commitment to 75 % over 2025.

Among the innovations developed, a flagship product will be presented at the December 8, 2025 event in Lyon, which will also celebrate Cosmed's 25th anniversary.

Image: Tung Nguyen / Pixabay

Debut biotech plans to launch the first-ever molecular replica of carmine

By
The editorial staff
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Carminic-Debut

No need for cochineal beetles to produce carmine! Debut biotech offers a biosynthetic alternative.

Californian biotech Debut has announced a significant scientific breakthrough in the bioproduction of carmine, which until now has been derived from the cochineal beetle. The fruit of several years' research, Debut's biosynthetic innovation is based on a new family of enzymes responsible for a key step, and on innovative solutions to overcome costly inputs during the bioproduction process.

"Carmine is one of the most difficult molecules to innovate. After a major investment and a lot of hard work, we are very proud to have discovered the essential missing step in the creation of renewable carmine, enabling us to go from sugar to this highly prized molecule, said Joshua Britton, founder and CEO of Debut. Many teams have tried to biofabricate carmine over the years, without success, due to the complexity and cost of the inputs. It's only thanks to our advanced biotechnology, Debut's proprietary Bio2Consumer platform and our differentiated biomanufacturing capabilities that this innovation has finally come to fruition."

To enable bioproduction from a low-cost renewable resource, Debut had to discover two enzymes and improve their performance. The company combined its patented microbial production systems with state-of-the-art cell-free biomanufacturing, overcoming industrial limitations to increase carmine bioproduction 100-fold compared with the best previous attempts.

Debut points out that carmine has a long history, dating back thousands of years to the Mayan and Aztec empires. According to Smithsonian Magazine, it takes around 70,000 cochineal beetles to produce a pound of crushed dried insect and a fifth of a pound of carminic acid. This age-old ingredient of animal origin is still used because, until recently, there was no environmentally-friendly alternative. According to Debut, synthetic alternatives have not produced colors as bright, stable and easy to formulate as carmine. What's more, they raise concerns. In January 2025, the FDA banned the use of synthetic Red No.3 dye because of its possible carcinogenic effect.

Debut's carminic acid is over 95 % pure, while the industry average is 30 % or less. The purity of cochineal-derived carminic acid is extremely low, typically 10 %. Bio-manufactured carmine also lacks a specific protein found in cochineal-derived carmine, which is known to cause skin irritation. In addition, bio-carmin has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

"Several colorants have been used to replace cochineal-derived carmine, but nothing beats the hue, potency, stability and brilliance of carmine in lipstick. Debut's bio-carmine is exactly the same ingredient found in nature, and we look forward to seeing it in beauty product formulations soon," said Joshua Britton.

Debut recently completed pilot-scale bioproduction, enabling the formulation of carminic acid for beauty applications. The company now wishes to target the food and beverage market in collaboration with a world-renowned partner. Active discussions are currently underway.

Photo © Mark Wall, Chief Scientific Officer, Debut

Aroma-Zone, strong sales growth 

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The editorial staff
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Aroma-Zone

Aroma-Zone, the French specialist in natural beauty, well-being and skincare, has announced +56 % growth in its chiffre d'affaires (+13 points compared with 2023). Recently voted 2nd "favorite retailer of the French" in the OC&C Consultants barometer, the company ranks 1st in the items value for money and product quality.

These results can be explained by several factors linked to the strategic pivot operated by the brand since 2021.

As a result, new "ready-to-consume" products - with safe, easy-to-read and transparent formulation guidelines - now account for 90 % of the brand's sales (whereas Aroma-Zone had made a name for itself with its range of ingredients for DIY cosmetics). These products include the 10 best-selling references (Aroma-Zone sells a hyaluronic acid serum every 10 seconds in France, according to the company).

The intermediary-free model and a reinforced commitment to sustainability, with concrete eco-design and zero-waste initiatives (no boxes, no over-packaging, no cellophane, no single-dose) play an important role, with in particular almost two million ecorecharges sold in 2024 (+57 % vs. 2023).

The extension of the boutique network, with new openings in France (Dijon, Bordeaux, Ile-de-France, Grenoble), also strengthens our proximity to the community. 

The digital channel, which shipped over 3.2 million packages in 2024, offre a personalized experience. The Aroma-Zone platform also shares unique scientific content written by experts, responding to its mission of sharing, transparency and democratization of knowledge.

Furthermore, in 2024, sales were evenly split 50 % in-store and 50 % on the web, with a proportion of online sales of 15 % to international markets.

Aroma-Zone aims to democratize natural beauty and personalized skincare while remaining accessible to all, and now appeals to nearly 25 % men. All in all, in 2024, nearly three million active consumers helped grow the Aroma-Zone community. 

Ambitious prospects for 2025 

Building on this momentum, Aroma-Zone plans to continue enriching its offre combining quality, efficacity, safety, naturalness and accessibility, while remaining attentive to the demands of its community (expert serums for all skin types and problems, dietary supplements and beautifying skincare).

The opening of new stores in several French cities, including Rouen, Cannes and the Paris region, and for the first time across the Atlantic in the UK (fin 2025) will contribute to the company's development.

The brand will also continue to invest in R&D and its Aroma-Zone laboratory. A new laboratory will open in Cabrières-d'Avignon by summer 2025.

With an effectif of 550 employees by fin 2024, Aroma-Zone plans to recruit. Industrial infrastructure development is scheduled for the next two years, with the expansion of the Châteauneuf-de-Gadagne logistics platform, that of the production plant and the construction of a new laboratory at Cabrières-d'Avignon.

"This success is the fruit of collective work and the ongoing confiance of our community of nearly three million active customers who share our values and commitment to healthy, transparent beauty. Our mission remains unchanged: to make natural products accessible to all, at the right price, so that we can consciously take care of ourselves, our beauty and our well-being, while adopting a more responsible approach to consumption. We are determined to pursue our commitment with the same passion and demand for quality. 2025 will enable us to pursue this growth dynamic in France, at our own pace, while setting our sights internationally with the opening of our first boutique in the UK."said Sabrina Herlory-Rouget, CEO, Aroma-Zone.

Photo taken from the Aroma-Zone website

A premium dropper designed by Quadpack

By
The editorial staff
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Quadpack - Wanderer Divine

Quadpack's high-performance dropper tube is now available with a luxury pipette for high-end brands.

Conceived by packaging manufacturer and supplier Quadpack's Creative Hub last year, Wanderer offers precise dripping. The solution has been reinvented with a high-end pipette for a premium look. With a material that allows the path of the formula through the pipette to be seen, for a better sensory experience.

Developed for low-viscosity formulas such as oils, serums and boosters, the Wanderer dropper features Quadpack's flow-regulating disc, which forces the formula to pass through a circuit of physical obstacles creating resistance, before it is released, drop by drop. Users apply the appropriate pressure to the tube to deliver the formula in a controlled manner.  

"Wanderer is an efficient solution in an intuitive package. Our system gives consumers precise control over the dosage of liquid formula in a tube, eliminating the need for complex dispensing mechanisms that complicate production, slow assembly and logistics, and increase costs."explains Alejandra Isern, Category Specialist.

Wanderer Divine replaces the polypropylene (PP) pipette with a polyethylene terephthalate (PET) version. Strict dimensional control guarantees the precise tolerances needed to attach the flow control disc to the more rigid material, while ensuring the same optimum performance. PET's properties enable total transparency, increasing visibility and appeal, for greater differentiation in terms of luxury. Creative decoration and a choice of proportions (a diameter of 19 or 25 mm with or without a shoulder) result in packaging that looks upscale, functional and precise.

The tube is available in single- or multi-layer versions, with an EVOH protective barrier. Wanderer Divine is also available with post-consumer recycled materials: up to 100 % of PCR for the cap and 50 % for the single-material tube, or 50 % in the outer shell of the multi-material tube.

The Wanderer range is expanding with a variety of pipettes and new disks for other types of formula, offering even more choice for a wide range of possible applications.

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