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Cosnova eliminates all microplastics from its formulas.

Cosnova

At a time when the European Commission is announcing a gradual ban on the use of microplastics, Cosnova, a European make-up specialist based in Germany, announces that it has already eliminated 100 % of microplastics from all its Essence and Catrice products since March 2023.

A forthcoming European Commission directive on cosmetics and microplastics is set to shake up the industry: it will gradually introduce new requirements concerning microplastics. The ban will apply to all persistent synthetic particles smaller than 5 mm, and thus to cosmetics such as exfoliants and glitter.

The ban is part of the EU's efforts to reduce pollution. Microplastics are tiny particles of plastic that enter the oceans through the water cycle. The gradual implementation of the directive now concerns flakes or exfoliating beads contained in rinse-off products. Other products containing microplastics will benefit from a 12-year transition period. However, in eight years' time, these transitional products will have to bear the words "this product contains microplastics" until the definitive ban.

A priority for Cosnova since 2020 

Katrin Steinbach, an expert in Cosnova's Corporate Responsibility technical unit, reacts to the announcement: " As a company that has been pursuing an ambitious sustainability strategy for many years, we welcome the EU's decision. We began developing microplastic-free products three years ago, and have already revised all our existing products. Since March this year, all Essence and Catrice products have been 100 % microplastic-free.

All products from both brands that have a glittery effect, such as eyeshadow or nail polish, contain either biodegradable glitter or mineral particles such as mica.

For products with an exfoliating effect, such as lip scrubs, Cosnova also uses exclusively natural substances, such as sugar, plant bark powder or jojoba beads.

Here are a few examples of the alternatives to microplastic used by cosnova:

  • Mineral substances: effect pigments based on mica or silica (ethically degraded) effect pigments based on borosilicate and synthetic fluorophlogopite
  • Biodegradable sequins made from renewable materials, combined in different layers
  • Sugar
  • Lemon zest powder
  • Hardened jojoba oil
  • Bamboo powder

No more volatile silicones from 2025 

Eliminating microplastics is only one step. Cosnova is working on new formulas without volatile silicones. The spectrum of silicones and their uses is very broad, as is their impact on health and the environment. Like microplastics, these synthetic plastics are released into nature via wastewater. It is therefore very difficult to eliminate them. Cosnova intends to completely eliminate volatile silicones from its product formulas by 2025.

Product safety: one of Cosnova's five CSR pillars 

"As a major player in the beauty industry, cosnova takes its responsibilities to fundamentally reduce its ecological footprint. Beyond "product safety", the company continues to innovate around four other pillars: climate and environment, waste reduction, working conditions and employee social initiatives."the company says.

Axium Packaging sets up in Italy

Axium Packaging

Axium Packaging, which specializes in the manufacture of jars, bottles and closures in PET, recycled PET, & PP, PCR PP for the hygiene-beauty and food markets, has just completed a new external growth operation: the acquisition of the Italian company Silte srl.

Silte srl, a family-owned SME based in Budrio near Bologna, Italy, specializes in the manufacture of extrusion blow-molded and cold cycle blow-molded jars and bottles for the Italian hygiene-beauty, cosmetics and detergents markets. Founded in 1970, the company generates sales of 7.5 million euros and employs 25 people at its Italian production site.

The integration of Silte srl into the group enables Axium Packaging to strengthen its presence in Italy, and enhances the group's standard and specific packaging offer, while remaining in line with its strategic development objective: to offer its customers eco-designed packaging comprising a container and a customized closure solution.

Complementary in its plastic packaging offering, Silte srl will thus benefit from the synergy of development with the group's other entities to strengthen its product and service offering on the Italian market, particularly for the food industry.

This acquisition strengthens the position of the Axium Packaging Group, which is now present in Europe with five production sites employing 385 people and consolidated sales of almost €80 million after this acquisition.

Photo from www.axium-packaging.eu

Cosmogen's Tense RPE tube and ceramic applicator win over Caudalie

Cosmogen - Caudalie

Caudalie has adopted Cosmogen's Tense RPE (PE PCR) tube and ceramic applicator for Vinoperfect "Soin éclaircissant regard".

The refreshing action of the ceramic applicator maximizes the results of the treatment on dark circles and reveals a more luminous eye contour. The tube is made from recycled PE (PCR) and the applicator is detachable for easy sorting and recycling at the end of its life.

Cosmogen's Tense tube is patented packaging, available in recycled plastic (PCR), with a removable ceramic or metal applicator that can be reused on a refill. In 2023, Cosmogen launched Squeeze'n Fresh removable, a new targeted applicator. With its modern, original design, removable stainless steel tip that can be replaced on a refill and separated at the end of its life, and on/off closure system for dispensing (on), applying and washing the tip (off), Squeeze'n Fresh removable is in line with Cosmogen's philosophy of responsible innovation for safe, sustainable beauty. Tube and cap are available in recycled plastic.

What are the keys to producing eco-friendly natural extracts?

site-industries-cosmetiques A draft with the words technical day.

"From flowers to fragrances and flavors: the fragrance and flavor industry listens to the earth": the 5th edition of the technical day dedicated to fragrances and flavors will be held on November 30 at the Palais des Congrès in Grasse. The Innov'Alliance competitiveness cluster aims to offer a comprehensive review of innovation across the fragrance value chain, so as to provide consumers with environmentally-friendly fragranced cosmetics. 

Among the themes addressed, plant extraction, at the heart of the emblematic know-how of the Pays de Grasse, recognized as a Unesco World Heritage Site, will be extensively developed. While natural extracts form the very essence of a perfume, their eco-socio-responsibility is now fundamental to fully meeting consumer expectations. 

The use of innovative extraction technologies is not enough. The environmental impacts of the upstream cultivation phase, as well as social aspects, need to be integrated into an overall 360°C approach. This will be the focus of the first session, which will combine an assessment of the Indian Ocean's emblematic perfume plant sectors in the face of global warming, with presentations of innovative production methodologies for natural raw materials. Collaboration with producers of vanilla, clove, ylang-ylang, vetiver, geranium, ginger, cinnamon, pink berries, etc., as well as existing techniques and solutions for regenerative agriculture and soilless cultivation will be presented. Prior to the event, on the evening of Wednesday November 29 at the Villa Blu By Robertet, the cluster's start-ups will have already presented breakthrough solutions: vertical farms, the benefits of mycorrhization for soils and yields in particular. 

The session on transformation and processes will draw heavily on this global approach to controlling the environmental and social footprint of ingredients. The added value of developing our own supply chains and vertical integration will be clearly illustrated by the use of high-performance management tools. The industrial development of alternative and ecological processes, an essential complement, will be illustrated by DSM-Firmenich's FirGood technology, the new generation of absolutes obtained with Robertet's CleanRscent agrosolvent, or EDEN Ecosystem's industrial deployment of ultrasound.

As the entire flavor and fragrance industry is mobilized to protect the planet, other innovations limiting environmental impacts will naturally be addressed during the day, focusing on know-how, the creation and formulation of eco-responsible fragrances, and tools guaranteeing transparency and respect for the environment for consumers. The day's events will feature a wide range of interactive discussions at expert conferences attended by 150 to 200 participants - an interdisciplinary audience comprising CEOs, R&D, researchers, perfumers, marketing and regulatory assessors. At the closing session, all will be able to debate and launch new positive-impact initiatives.

For more information: https://pole-innovalliance.com/events/technical-day-of-flowers-and-perfumes-and-aromas

Improving packaging line efficiency with automatic fillers

CDA K-Dense automatic filling table

When it comes to optimizing the productivity and quality of your packaging line, there are many factors to consider. The integration of machines such as fillers, screwers and labellers enables packaging speeds to be increased considerably. This in turn saves time for the company's core business: production.

Increased productivity

"One of the main concerns of any manufacturing company is to increase productivity while maintaining product quality. CDA automatic fillers are designed to achieve this balance. They are renowned for their versatility, and are thus able to fill a wide variety of containers quickly and accurately without making too many adjustments. CDA engineers are also committed to creating machines with "good cleanability". This considerably reduces packaging line downtime.says CDA.

Error reduction

CDA's automatic fillers feature advanced technology and precision control to minimize filling errors. This means less wasted raw material, fewer rejects and a significant reduction in labor costs associated with error correction.

Lower operating costs

The efficiency of a packaging line has a direct impact on operating costs. "By investing in CDA automatic fillers, it is possible to reduce expenses related to labor, training and quality control operations. What's more, these machines are designed to be easy to maintain, clean and adjust, minimizing unplanned downtime and repair costs."continues CDA. 

Improving product quality

Product quality is essential to attract new customers, retain their loyalty and maintain a solid reputation in the market. CDA's automatic fillers ensure precise, professional product dosing, avoiding the inconsistencies often associated with manual filling methods. CDA offers the option of customizing filling parameters to meet exact product specifications, guaranteeing consistently high quality.

"CDA filling machines are investments that help companies improve their packaging efficiency (and therefore indirectly their production). They offer higher productivity, fewer errors, lower operating costs and improved product quality".concludes CDA.

Photo: K-Dense, automatic filling table for dosing pasty products. Photo taken from cdafrance.com.

A fun refill with a pot that pops!

PP-Pop pot from Quadpack

Quadpack's PP-Pop pot is a single-material solution with an attractive refill system.

The new PP-Pop jar from international beauty packaging manufacturer and supplier Quadpack is a fun solution for refillable cosmetics, featuring a fresh new gesture. Once the internal cartridge is complete, it is ejected by pushing it from the bottom of the jar, emitting a "pop" as it emerges. Simply insert the refill from the top.

Karen Merchán, Category Manager - Skincare, explains: "Refill concepts only work if they're easy and attractive, and the PP-Pop jar ticks all the boxes. Changing refills is easy and clean, and the 'pop' gesture makes the experience enjoyable. It's also compatible with most formulas, and best of all, it's one of our most sustainable solutions."

The jar's components are minimalist, consisting of a ring-shaped outer jar, a heat-sealed interior, a lid and a cap - and nothing else, no false bottom or superfluous material. Made entirely from polypropylene, the PP-Pop jar represents an "advanced level" of sustainability according to Quadpack's Positive Impact Packaging (PIP) rating system. The lid and outer jar can also include up to 75 % of PCR or Ocean Bound plastic, derived from waste diverted from the oceans. Lifecycle analyses show significant improvements in water use and carbon footprint for PCR versions.

Available in 30 ml, 50 ml and 100 ml, the PP-Pop jar is ideal for face, body and hair care products. Brands can get creative when it comes to decorating the various components, offering a fantastic user experience.

French software dedicated to small and medium-sized cosmetics and soap manufacturers

site-industries-cosmetiques An automatic laptop with a screen displaying a list of invoices.

You'd think they'd be swallowed up by the cosmetics giants, but the opposite is true: small French soap makers are putting up a strong resistance.

Better still, they are multiplying to defend the values of quality, authenticity and craftsmanship. More efficient, in tune with the need to protect the environment and the zero-waste movement, they have become true experts in a technique requiring a high level of know-how: cold saponification.

But they face a double challenge:

  • Time wasted managing inventories (raw materials, finished products, etc.) and monitoring production;
  • The difficulty of establishing traceability, which is mandatory in the event of a DGCCRF inspection.

Artisan soap-makers are often forced to produce tedious Excel spreadsheets or use English-language software that is difficult to learn and unsuited to European regulations.

In this context, Marie Raoult Bulion, manager of a soap factory, created Logimaker, which publishes Logi.soap, a French inventory management and traceability software package for small and medium-sized businesses in the cosmetics and soap industries.

Software made by and for even the smallest cosmetics companies

Logi.soap business software is designed for small and medium-sized craft businesses, and in particular for soap makers using the "cold saponification" (SAF) method.

In just a few clicks, you can :

  • Inventory management: raw materials, finished products, low level/out-of-stock alerts;
  • Suppliers: list of suppliers, list of raw materials, order information ;
  • The cure: cure time and weight loss during the cure;
  • Costing: products and test formulas ;
  • Traceability: compliance with European standard ISO-22716 ;
  • The specificities of each soap factory: this software can be customized to integrate recipes, lists of fats, dissolving liquids and additives.

A wide range of benefits

According to Marie Raoult Bulion, Logi.soap is the only software in French adapted to the needs of very small businesses, especially in terms of financing. 

The first month is free, then the subscription is priced at €39.90 ex-VAT/month or €399.90 ex-VAT/year (2 months free).

Easy to use and in French, it provides easy access to all useful data.

Compliant with the ISO-22716 standard, Logi-soap provides traceability from raw material to finished product in just a few clicks.

This software integrates notions specific to soap makers, such as curing.

Alerts (low levels, DLUO, cure expiry date) help boost productivity and avoid wasting raw materials.

Marie Raoult Bulion joined the 1Kubator incubator to create Logimaker in September 2022. Its first product, Logi.soap, has been on the market since May 2023.

Paris Packaging Week announces dates for 2024

Paris Packaging Week

Paris Packaging Week opens its doors on January 17 and 18, showcasing the very best the packaging industry has to offer. Held at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, the event will welcome 650 exhibitors to the world capital of luxury and beauty.

This event offers beverage, luxury goods, beauty and FMCG brands the resources and expertise they need to shape the future of their packaging. The exhibition hall will welcome many visitors and offer an exciting program of conferences, networking events and galleries dedicated to innovation.

Paris Packaging Week brings together four exhibitions, each dedicated to business and innovation in a specific packaging market. PCD is dedicated to packaging for perfumes, cosmetics and personal care products. ADF is the world's only annual show dedicated to aerosols and dispensing systems, organized in partnership with the European Aerosol Federation (FEA). PLD is dedicated to the premium beverage segment, in particular wines and spirits. Packaging Première is dedicated to luxury products, such as watches, jewelry, fashion, confectionery and delicatessen.

The event continues to grow year on year: in 2023, it attracted almost 9,000 visitors, representing over 2,500 design brands and agencies from all over the world. Its success has also earned it two prestigious awards: "Best International Show - Europe" at the AEO Excellence Awards, and "Best International Show" at the Exhibition News Awards. These two awards reinforce its status as a must-attend event in the packaging industry calendar.

Josh Brooks, Marketing Director of Paris Packaging Week at organizer Easyfairs, expects the next show to be just as successful: "Paris Packaging Week occupies a strategic position at the heart of packaging innovation for beauty and luxury products, beverages and aerosols. The 2024 edition will welcome more exhibitors than ever and will be, more than ever, a must-attend venue for packaging brands, designers and manufacturers looking to stay at the forefront of all trends. It's a privilege for us to know that the world's leading packaging suppliers and brands, as well as a host of new participants, have put their trust in us when it comes to organizing the forum that's shaping the future of packaging. And we look forward to welcoming them to the event. Save the dates: Paris Packaging Week, the must-attend expo dedicated to the packaging sector, is back."

The event will also welcome new exhibitors to Paris for the first time, including paper and packaging specialist Mondi, up-and-coming company Addison and German engineering giant ThyssenKrupp.

Looking ahead to the event, Christian Weers, Head of Communications and New Market Development at ThyssenKrupp, who will be attending ADF, says: "This is the first time that ThyssenKrupp Rasselstein will be participating in Paris Packaging Week with its own stand at the ADF show. We will be presenting our low-CO2 tinplate, made from bluemint steel, and our innovative range of Rasselstein packaging steels specially designed for aerosol cans, fastening cups, lids and can bottoms. We're looking forward to this event. Above all, it's a meeting point for us to communicate with all our partners in the value chain, and an opportunity to highlight our strategic position in the aerosol market."

Innovating for sustainable beauty

Minimal pot_Groupe Pochet

At this year's Luxe Pack Monaco, which took place between October 2 and 4, 2023, the Pochet Group presented three major themes linked to new market trends: premiumization, lightening, rechargeability and new uses. 

Optimized solutions in terms of aesthetics and use

In its Creative Lab, the Pochet group presented innovative proposals for the distribution of anhydrous formulas and the application of creams.

On the stand, brands were able to discover new, innovative and customizable refillable skincare jar designs: Malti, Marvelous. These innovations joined Odyssée (the nomadic refillable jar) and Modulo Skin, both in Collections.

The Malti pot offers a multitude of materials - wood, ceramic, aluminum, virtuous plastic, etc. - for its case or refill. - for its case or refill, both of which can be combined with a highly intuitive gesture, for all types of care, especially inclusive or masculine. Marvelous, the prestige skincare jar with intuitive gestures.

Marvelous is a refillable skincare jar with an intuitive gesture. The jar and refill are made of glass. Its hidden refillability means it retains an elegant aesthetic and is in keeping with the codes of exceptional skincare.

Pushing back the limits of materials and decors with open innovation partners

Thanks to its knowledge of the beauty and luxury goods market, the Pochet Group, in partnership with MagREEsource and its customers, intends to integrate responsible magnets into perfume caps.

MagREEsource is developing an innovative technology for recycling magnets sourced in France from the dismantling of wind turbines and electric motors.

"This innovation will reduce the magnet's carbon footprint by a factor of two compared with a magnet manufactured in Asia.says Nicolas Piffault, Pochet Group CSR Director.

Adding value to the growing make-up segment with noble materials

The Pochet group preserves the codes of luxury and the aesthetics of make-up products by working with noble materials and innovative gestures.

Diamond, its bottle with glass base and cap, benefits from entirely translucent packaging, which adds sparkle to make-up and skincare formulas and perfume juices. It responds to the trend for ultra-luxury, precious packaging, and can be recycled through recycling channels.

Minimal jars can be designed in all sizes, from 7-ml blushes and balms to 200-ml body creams. They are at least 20 % lighter than the average weight of products on the market.

The Minimal range, initially comprising a lightweight glass jar and an aluminum cap - the two most recycled materials - has also been extended with an ultra-light bottle (15 g, i.e. 50% less weight than standard bottles on the market) with very thin glass walls, and a refillable glass case, ideal for loose powders and poured formulas as well as skincare creams.

Audace, with its all-metal or all-plastic cases featuring innovative gestures, offers prestige powders an innovative case, both aesthetically and in terms of use, with its easy-opening and refill system.

For even, firm skin

Immortelle-Oil-Pro

Lipoid Kosmetik, a leading manufacturer of botanical extracts, actives and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry, recently introduced Immortelle Oil Pro, a Cosmos-certified extract for body care applications aimed at achieving even, firm skin.

Skin imperfections, such as stretch marks, can have a significant impact on a person's image and adversely affect their quality of life. Stretch marks are the result of broken collagen and elastin fibers in the skin's connective tissue. 

Cosmetic strategies to improve stretch marks and skin firmness involve strengthening the skin matrix, reducing redness and inflammation, and improving microcirculation through mechanical stimulation.

Lipoid Kosmetik uses the properties of Immortelle d'Italie (Helichrysum italicum) to create Immortelle Oil Pro, an extract with proven efficacy for body care. Its lipophilic active ingredients strengthen the skin matrix and reduce inflammation, leading to a substantial improvement in the appearance of stretch marks and skin firmness. As an oil-based extract, Immortelle Oil Pro can be incorporated into products that can be massaged into the skin, resulting in the following benefits for the user:

  • Reduced appearance of stretch marks
  • Increased skin firmness
  • Improved skin evenness and smoothness
  • Body contouring

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