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Jean-Paul Gaultier's La Belle Fleur Terrible in Pure Trade

PURE TRADE - JEAN PAUL GAUTHIER - La Belle Fleur Terrible

Specializing in the design and development of high-end promotional products and secondary packaging for leading luxury and cosmetics brands, Pure Trade reveals a new facet of its expertise by adorning the blue bottle of Jean-Paul Gaultier's Belle Fleur Terrible with embroidery designed in two layers and four parts. 

The technical challenge was to sew the different parts together, with constant orientation for homogeneous positioning.

Pure Trade had already produced secondary packaging for the Jean-Paul Gaultier brand, including metal boxes for certain collector's editions.

This latest achievement underscores Pure Trade's ability to facilitate the brand development process by providing complementary, integrated solutions from a full-service perspective.

Oral hygiene goes natural

Oral Care_Dentifrice solide

It has gone from being a trend to a requirement: naturalness is at the heart of consumer expectations, particularly in the hygiene and beauty sector, in which the oral hygiene market plays an essential role. To meet this demand for naturalness in product composition, and to guarantee a routine that is not harmful to health, the choice of ingredients is a fundamental step.

To support market players in the selection and/or development of natural, high-performance and essential ingredients, Herbarom Laboratoire, a Herbarom brand, has formulated its new inspiration range: Oral Care. It consists of two demonstration products - a chewable solid toothpaste and a mouthwash - formulated from a rigorous choice of ingredients: essential oils of spearmint and peppermint, distilled peppermint water and hydroglycerine extract of lemon peel.

Make way for naturalness in your daily hygiene routine...

Toothpaste is the most widely used oral care product, with a market share of 25 %, followed by mouthwash. What do they have in common? They are both very often composed of controversial raw materials, such as chlorhexidine, triclosan or cety|pyridinium chloride.

As alternatives to these ingredients, which are harmful to health and the environment, natural ingredients such as essential oils and plant extracts have become key to the formulation of oral care products.

...through rigorous selection of effective botanical ingredients

Because they offer real benefits for oral health, plants and raw materials of plant origin are becoming increasingly popular for formulating products. These plant extracts are quite simply natural, whether conventional or organic, and can be used as flavourings as well as active ingredients. Antiseptic, antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory or pain-relieving, the properties of plant extracts are the naturally effective key to product composition.

For Herbarom, the rigorous selection of ingredients takes place on several levels:

sourcing, mastery of traceability, and gentle extraction techniques to extract the best from plants while respecting the raw material.

herbarom's oral care range: sensoriality, effectiveness and respect for the environment

Based in the heart of France's Biovallée region for almost 30 years, the Herbarom group is renowned for its pioneering approach to plant extraction and its expertise in the use of plants in cosmetic formulation.

Naturalness is part of the Group's DNA, and has inspired the development of the

Oral Care range: a chewable solid toothpaste and a mouthwash to perfect brushing, developed from a rigorous choice of ingredients and cutting-edge research into flavoring.

Two varieties of mint, peppermint and spearmint, recognized for their anti-micriobic properties, are at the heart of the formula for both the chewable solid toothpaste and the mouthwash, the latter being complemented by lemon, recognized for its whitening and antibacterial properties. These ingredients are highly prized for their many benefits in the formulation of oral care products.

Naturally antimicrobial, mint helps keep the mouth clean and healthy. It also has anti-inflammatory properties. When incorporated into oral care formulations, it helps limit the onset of various pathologies and stimulates saliva secretion, essential for mouth cleanliness.

Lemon is often used as a tooth whitening agent. It also contains citric acid, which helps fight tartar, responsible for yellowing teeth and sometimes the cause of oral discomfort such as cavities, gum disease and bad breath. This mouthwash is effective for strengthening tooth enamel, preventing cavities and preventing plaque. It freshens breath and purifies the oral cavity. 

Demonstration products, the chewable solid toothpaste and mouthwash formulated by Herbarom R&D experts were showcased at Cosmetic-360 Paris, October 18-19, 2023.

Creed perfumes orchestrate their international data with Magic Software's integration platform

Visual Creed

"The Magic xpi Integration Platform has enabled us to synchronize data from Creed's various information systems on an international scale. Intuitive and powerful, the tool accelerated the implementation of the new ERP, helping to stabilize our fast-growing environment".says Emmanuel Schoenberger, ERP project consultant at Creed.

Founded in England in 1760, and with a factory in France since 1864, Creed is a high-end company dedicated to creating original fragrances for men and women, using exceptional ingredients. Rose from Bulgaria, jasmine from Italy, tuberose from India, vetiver from Haiti... These raw, natural ingredients undergo a demanding manufacturing process, based in particular on hand maceration in the Fontainebleau factory. Creed perfume boutiques are present in Europe, the United States and Dubai.

In 2022, the company faces an international challenge: to centralize data from its various information systems (IS) in the UK, France, the USA and the Middle East. "Everything was scattered and uncoordinated: we had two logistics tools, a production tool, an e-commerce tool, another dedicated to expense reports, an interface for the bank... There was complexity everywhere, explains Emmanuel Schoenberger. This huge disparity between systems was becoming untenable, given that Creed had been growing rapidly for several years and needed to streamline its processes. It had therefore become urgent to create dynamics and agility between these different information systems.

Collecting and managing data

The solution then lies in deploying a platform for orchestrating all data flows (BPM/EAI/ETL), i.e. software for collecting and managing data from multiple sources.

Objective: convert all data into a format suitable for a data warehouse. "It was at this point that Creed decided to enlist the services of Magic Software, following a recommendation by integrator Prodware. It was Creed's IT teams who subsequently endorsed this choice, which is now proving to be a very wise one".says Emmanuel Schoenberger.

Magic Software, which has been providing software platforms for digital transformation (development, integration, industry 4.0, etc.) since 1983, is offering a solution that will be deployed at Creed from June 2022. The Magic xpi platform will be deployed in conjunction with the implementation of a new ERP system (Enterprise Resource Planning), a management tool for all Creed perfumes activities (logistics, purchasing, accounting, project management, supply chain operations, etc.).

"Magic xpi helped to speed up the implementation of our new ERP, a project that was being piloted by integrator partner Prodware. This solution facilitated harmonized data management, because we had to deploy the ERP in 6-8 months, with significant implementation constraints in terms of time. The context was not easy, and we were able to count on Magic Software's teams at all times to help us deploy this new environment. It's now a done deal!says Emmanuel Schoenberger.

The results have lived up to Creed's high expectations and challenges, in a context of strong growth in a very dynamic international sector.

The Magic xpi integration platform offered several advantages:

  • Greater peace of mind for teams: the solution is easy to use on a daily basis, thanks to its intuitive design;
  •  Agile deployment: Magic xpi deploys quickly, and its learning curve is highly scalable and productive;
  •  A natural ability to integrate all types of data flows via our connectors (APIs), enabling us to open up to all the Group's business applications.
  • Magic xpi's ability to seamlessly integrate technological developments ensures a future-proof IT infrastructure;
  • Finally, the implementation of an "end-to-end" functional, production, order, stock, e-commerce... harmonized around the Microsoft Dynamics 365 ERP.

In the end, Magic xpi enabled Creed to synchronize all data from its business application systems, on an international scale. " The major contribution was the mastery with which we were able to deploy a new, easy-to-use interface, which enabled us to increase our skills considerably.analyses Emmanuel Schoenberger. In particular, the tool has been used to transform all e-commerce data, facilitating links between systems as well as between Creed's different teams.

We have set up API's that orchestrate the information, and we use them on a daily basis to supply the various business lines with optimized information."

The aim is to improve the overall ROI on the company's digital transformation.

For Creed, there are still a number of steps to be taken in order to further consolidate the fluidity of the stages by profession. " In the future, our ambition is to improve our use of the Magic xpi platform.concludes Emmanuel Schoenberger.

We want to gain autonomy, acquire additional skills to better understand the issues and be in action mode. In particular, we want to better define what monitoring is... For this, we can count on the service center, one of Magic Software France's complementary solutions, which really helps us to better manage this transformation."

Photo taken from the case study published on the Magic Software website.

Prad among the 3 % most responsible companies according to EcoVadis

PRAD_visual

Reductions of 30 % in CO2 and energy emissions, 40 % in waste and 50 % in water consumption over the last four years have, in particular, enabled Prad to rank among the top 3 % companies worldwide assessed by EcoVadis.

EcoVadis, "the world's largest CSR policy assessment organization", also recognized Prad's actions in implementing its diversity, equity and inclusion policies. In 2022, Prad has, among other things, focused on raising awareness and preventing harassment, as well as violence against women.

On the strength of this recognition, Prad is stepping up its commitment to CSR and has set itself the target of a dry factory by 2028. From now on, Prad offers its high-end perfume and cosmetics customers the opportunity to work more closely on eco-design, right from the laboratory phase, by integrating virtuous production processes. Prad also advises on production waste management and promotes systematic recyclability.

High-end decoration on glass and aluminum

Prad is an independent French company specializing in the decoration of recyclable glass and aluminum containers. Its customers include Cartier, Chanel, Coach, Diptyque, Jimmy Choo and many other prestigious brands.

Prad masters the following technologies: liquid metallization, lacquering, laser finishing, screen printing, pad printing and hot stamping. Used individually or in combination, they enable a wide range of renderings, nuances, color and/or material effects, and extreme line precision.

The company relies on its new environmentally-friendly equipment, practices and industrial processes, enhanced by the professionalism and dedication of its customer-oriented teams. The company is a member of the Industrie du futur 2.0 program of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, and participates in the UN Global Compact program.

Prad was founded 50 years ago and has been run by Bruno Pierrain, its CEO and owner since 2016. It is located near Valence and employs 65 people, committed to and driven by the values of respect, solidarity and eco-responsibility. 

dsm-firmenich increases production capacity for its Habanolide fragrance ingredient with a new facility in France

site-industries-cosmetiques An automotive manufacturing plant with a large number of tanks.

dsm-firmenich announces the forthcoming commissioning of a brand new Habanolide unit at its production site in south-west France. This new state-of-the-art facility will significantly increase production capacity for this iconic fragrance ingredient, and help meet the fast-growing demand for sustainable products. The new production site will be operational in January 2024.

"This is our first Habanolide production unit in Europe, says Emmanuel Butstraen, President of Perfumery & Beauty at dsm-firmenich. Et will strengthen our strategic position and enable us to offer additional capacity for perfumery in the region. In addition to helping us seize growth opportunities, it will help reduce the carbon footprint of our logistics operations. We will be able to provide a superior service close to our customers in Europe, and help them achieve their own sustainability goals by reducing their Scope 3 emissions."

Spread over four levels, the new facility will feature state-of-the-art technologies guaranteeing the highest safety standards, operational stability, quality, energy efficiency and reduced water consumption. The entire project is being carried out by a dozen local companies, involving some forty subcontractors every day for the past year.

"We are very proud of this new production unit, designed to increase the supply of this powerful, biodegradable musk, which is one of our best-selling ingredients, adds Amaury Roquette, Ingredients Director for Perfumery & Beauty at dsm-firmenich. This facility will enable us to produce Habanolide in Europe, in addition to our existing production line in New Jersey, USA. With this additional project, we are strengthening our global leadership in musks."

Habanolide is an elegant macrocyclic musk with warm, slightly woody notes. It is a key ingredient in the company's palette and is extremely popular in combination with dsm-firmenich's renewable musks such as Helvetolide and Romandolide, as well as the recently introduced captive ingredients Sorbettolide and Casmiwood. This increase in capacity will also benefit Habanolide derivatives, Exaltolide Total and Exaltolide.

dsm-firmenich has extensive experience in the production of musk ingredients. Years dedicated to research and development have made the group a pioneer in the market, earning it worldwide recognition as the "House of Musk".

This expansion project has benefited from a €1 million grant, as part of the national stimulus plan implemented by the French government and the Nouvelle Aquitaine region, to accelerate industrial investment in France.

Beautyworld Middle East 2023 welcomes a record number of Brazilian companies

site-industries-cosmetiques A group of people walking in front of a pink building, captured by Brouillon auto.

A total of 62 Brazilian companies from Beautycare Brazil (a project to internationalize the Brazilian cosmetics, toiletries and fragrances industry) are exhibiting at the 27th edition of Beautyworld Middle East 2023 (held from October 30 to November 1, in Dubai, United Arab Emirates). This is a record number of exhibiting companies since the first agreements were signed 20 years ago between Abihpec (Brazilian Association of the Cosmetics, Toiletries and Perfumes Industry) and ApexBrasil (Brazilian Trade and Investment Promotion Agency), who coordinate the sector project.

Most companies are concentrated in the Brazilian zone, but brands are also spread across other pavilions.

"At the previous edition of the show, during the three-day event, 2,383 business meetings took place, totaling $5.7 million in international sales, with the hope of reaching a further $50 million over the following 12 months. Our expectations for this edition are very positive and proportional to the record number of participating companies, mainly in terms of promoting the image of Brazil and its companies at the event, and business expansion. It will undoubtedly be an unforgettable moment of commercial promotion for the Brazilian CT&F sector (cosmetics, toiletries and fragrances) for interested audiences in the United Arab Emirates and other countries in the region".said Gueisa Silvério, International Business Manager at Abihpec.


A Green Zone in the Brazilian pavilion

Beautycare Brazil has created a new zone within the Brazilian pavilion: the Green Zone.

This year, two companies are taking part: i9 Soluções, a Brazilian leader in the production of sustainable hairbands, and Souvie, an organic cosmetics company. 

The hairbands offered by i9 Soluções are innovative, environmentally-friendly products, 100 % recyclable, reusable and metal-free, made from sustainable resources. They are a genuine tool developed exclusively for professional hairdressers, featuring two exclusive technologies that optimize performance and safety during the bleaching process.

In particular, Souvie has developed a certified organic sun cream, a foundation enriched with a selection of natural active ingredients - the first certified organic foundation in Brazil, and a primer enriched with an innovative active ingredient derived from organic Indian ginseng root, designed to protect the skin from damage caused by exposure to blue light.

Photo: © Delia Dobrescu

Reinforces the cutaneous barrier by maintaining skin hydration

site-industries-cosmetiques A pink rose with a yellow center and green leaves.

Crodarom, the French subsidiary of the Croda Group, which produces a wide range of innovative botanical extracts for cosmetics and industrial applications, has just launched Phytessence French Rose EC, a rose flower extract, Rosa gallicawhich reinforces the cutaneous barrier by maintaining skin hydration.

A fundamental pillar of our skin care routine, moisturizing is the first beauty gesture to adopt in every season. In response to climate change and temperature variations, a new technique is emerging: skin-flooding, which involves layering moisturizing cosmetics to lock in moisture and hydrate the epidermis deeply and for a long time. Hydrated skin is more supple and luminous, less prone to tightness and protected from cellular aging. The hydrolipidic film made up of sebum reinforces the skin barrier and limits water loss. Its composition varies according to age, state of health, season and environment. Often richer in sebum during adolescence, this film becomes less present and less effective with age. It is therefore essential to regulate and balance it. 

Obtained by ultrasonic extraction of roses Rosa gallica from French organic farming in glycerine and water (Eco-sound technology), Phytessence French Rose EC has moisturizing and protective properties.

The active ingredient moisturizes the skin and visually improves its quality, regulates sebocyte activity and protects lipid compounds from external aggression, and protects the skin from premature aging by reducing the expression of inflammatory mediators and the glycation phenomenon. 

According to the tests carried out :

  • Phytessence French Rose EC cream moisturizes the skin by a statistically significant 5 % compared to the placebo cream. Volunteers confirmed that the cream visually improved skin quality via a questionnaire administered 28 days after application versus placebo. 
  • Phytessence French Rose EC reduces lipid synthesis in sebocytes by 61 %.
  • Phytessence French Rose EC reduces UVA-induced lipoperoxidation of liposome phospholipids by 70 %. The active ingredient regulates sebocyte activity and protects lipid compounds from external aggression. Its properties are ideal for maintaining skin homeostasis.
  • Phytessence French Rose EC reduces PGE synthesis2 of 50 % and IL6 of 41 % after UVB exposure.
  • Phytessence French Rose EC at 3 % reduces glycation by 89 %.

Application patent pending.

Several applications are possible:
- Natural moisturizing serum
- Moisturizing facial mist
- Fresh awakening gel
- Tinted Perfecting Care
- Velvety moisturizing body care

Phytessence French Rose EC is a 100 % extract of natural origin according to ISO16128, preservative-free, Cosmos-certified, quantified in flavonoids.

Quimivita launches in France: a new subsidiary to strengthen its international presence

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman's hand holds a bottle of cosmetic cream.

Founded in Barcelona in 1964, Quimivita is strengthening its internationalization strategy and aims to increase the presence of its main divisions on the European and world markets. Already well established in Spain, the Catalan company develops innovative ingredients for the cosmetics, food and pharmaceutical industries, and offers laboratory equipment solutions.

The Quimivita story began in the 1960s with the production and marketing of mineral salts. Building on its success, Quimivita expanded its product range and opened its own research and development laboratory to develop new ingredients.

Thanks to an experienced R&D team headed by Dr. Manuela Bermúdez, former R&D Director at Revlon, Quimivita develops functional raw materials and high value-added natural active ingredients, particularly for the cosmetics industry.

This will enable Quimivita to work more closely with key players in the sector, to innovate in synergy with market trends, and to provide appropriate technical and commercial support.

"The opening of this subsidiary in France is a major step forward in our expansion vision. The French market is essential for us, and we're delighted to be able to be closer to our customers and partners here. This proximity will enable us to better understand their needs and offer a more personalized service."said Ramon Balanyà, CEO of Quimivita.

"Through this local presence, Quimivita invites all those who are curious to discover its different activities and to consider new collaborations. This subsidiary is more than just a geographical expansion; it's an invitation to dialogue, innovation and mutual growth on the international market".adds the company.

Two new sustainable ranges from Surlyn for perfume and cosmetics packaging

Dow - SURLYN CIR
Surlyn CIR

Dow has announced the launch of Surlyn REN and Surlyn CIR, two new sustainable ionomer ranges pioneering the use of renewable and circular raw materials.

These new ranges will enable beauty brands and manufacturers to create high-quality, sustainable cosmetics packaging that stands out from the crowd.

Surlyn CIR ionomers are made from mixed plastic waste, while Surlyn REN ionomers are derived from bio-waste, such as used cooking oil. Both ranges, produced from these alternative raw materials, continue to offer the properties that give Surlyn its unique look, feel and performance.

LVMH Beauté, a division of the LVMH group, world leader in luxury goods with 75 iconic brands, will be the first user of these new ranges, following on from the collaboration announced earlier this year with Dow. Dow has already begun supplying Surlyn's sustainable ranges for integration into several LVMH applications.

"Surlyn REN and Surlyn CIR represent a major breakthrough in the creation of sustainable packaging for the cosmetics industry. We are incredibly proud to be launching, alongside LVMH Beauté, renewable and circular raw materials for the manufacture of high-end cosmetic packaging. These products will not only support LVMH in achieving its sustainability goals, but will also contribute to Dow's bold ambition to transform waste and deliver 3 million metric tons per year of circular and renewable solutions by 2030."said Daniella Souza Miranda, Dow's Global Director of Circular and Renewable Solutions.

Dow - SURLYN RENSource : DR
Surlyn REN

Surlyn REN ionomers are produced from bio-waste such as cooking oil. This process uses waste residues or by-products from alternative production processes in other industries, meaning that the basic raw materials will not lead to additional consumption of earth resources or competition with the food chain.

Surlyn CIR ionomers are created using chemical recycling technologies, breaking down mixed plastics into their basic chemical elements, giving plastic waste a second life. This produces a raw material equivalent to that made from virgin fossil feedstocks. Circular raw materials of this kind can be used in packaging, helping to prevent plastic waste from ending up in landfill or being incinerated.

Surlyn REN and Surlyn CIR production processes are certified on a mass balance basis by the International Sustainability Carbon Certification (ISCC Plus).

An innovation to limit the toxicity of sunscreen products on the marine environment

site-industries-cosmetiques A tube of sunscreen on the sand by the ocean, protected from harmful UV rays.

At Cosmetic 360, Innov&Sea, a young start-up based in Nice, presented its ecotoxicity test, which sets a new standard for assessing the impact of sunscreen products on marine ecosystems. This test in vitro based on cell cultures differs considerably from traditional ecotoxicity tests using living marine organisms. According to Innov&Sea, it represents a major innovation in the suncare sector, which has been growing rapidly for years.

The test can be used successfully at every stage of formulation, from cosmetic ingredients to formulation blocks and finished products.

"Technology in vitro used offers the advantage of not involving the destruction of living organisms, as is the case with traditional ecotoxicity tests, which are often viewed negatively by consumers. In addition to offering excellent reproducibility and accuracy, this test is fast and available all year round.says Dr Pauline Cotinat, President of Innov&Sea.

The test is based on cell cultures of a recognized sentinel organism of coastal marine ecosystems, an invertebrate belonging to the same class as reef-building corals. This organism lives in symbiosis with a microalga and undergoes the same bleaching phenomenon, reflecting the state of health of the marine reef ecosystem. The test enables manufacturers wishing to take an eco-responsible approach to optimize their formulas in order to limit the impact on the marine ecosystem. It offers brands the opportunity to create products that are more attractive to consumers.

This test is already being used by several cosmetics brands wishing to position themselves in the eco-responsible products market.


Innov&Sea in a few words

- A start-up created in February 2023 and based in Nice, spin-off from the Université Côte d'Azur.

- Recognized scientific expertise in marine biology, cell cultures and stress response.

- Supported by CNRS innovation, Bpifrance and the Provence Côte d'Azur incubator.

- Innov&Sea ecotoxicity tests can be applied to all types of suncare products, creams, lotions, sticks, etc., and are available to brands, contract manufacturers and producers of cosmetic ingredients.

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