Enriched with alfalfa galactomannans, Inclusium is, according to Silab, a multifunctional natural active ingredient that enhances the beauty of all skin types. Its efficacy has been demonstrated on various panels, and its cosmetic benefits, visible from as early as seven days, meet consumers' universal expectations in terms of skin care.  

Responding to skin's specific needs with cross-disciplinary benefits 

In order to sketch the face of universal beauty, Silab has surveyed consumers' main skin characteristics according to ethnicity, gender and age. Three expectations stand out:   

• beautiful skin quality, characterized by cutaneous hydration and refined skin texture for a smoothed micro-relief; 
• an even, radiant complexion, free from the blemishes associated with post-inflammatory scarring and skin aging; 
• reduced signs of aging, with firmer skin and smoother wrinkles.

Proven effectiveness from cell to skin 

The combination of Silab's expertise in tissue engineering and transcriptomics has enabled us to investigate the spectrum of Inclusium's activities on the biological pathways essential to epidermal and dermal functionality. Thanks to a large-scale exploratory study, it was established that Inclusium :

• stimulates epidermal functions by modulating biological pathways linked to the physical and hydric barrier, the immune barrier and the anchoring of the epidermis to the dermis;
• reinforces dermal matrix quality by increasing collagen I synthesis and limiting MMP-1 synthesis.

In addition, five clinical studies were specifically conducted to demonstrate the performance of Inclusium. Evaluated on mixed, young and mature, Caucasian, Asian, Latin American and African-American panels, this active ingredient delivers a hydra-smoothing, complexion-perfecting and anti-wrinkle effect as early as seven days after application. 

Alfalfa, a herbaceous plant with many virtues

To develop the Inclusium active ingredient, enriched with galactomannans, Silab used the seeds of alfalfa, a plant native to Asia and cultivated throughout the world for thousands of years for its nutritional qualities and medicinal properties. 

Selected certified organic farms in France guarantee a secure, traceable supply.   

Inclusium is a patented active ingredient, recommended at a dose of 0.5 to 2.5%. Available in aqueous solution, it is easy to formulate. It complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 99.2 % (ISO 16128). It complies with international cosmetics regulations (Europe, USA, China, Japan, etc.).

Algaktiv Collage is made from plant collagen peptides and spermidine derived from a resilient extremophilic microalgae, Hematococcus pluvialis. This microalgae, which thrives in Iceland's harshest environments, has the ability to modify its own biochemistry when subjected to stress, producing astaxanthin, a red nutraceutical antioxidant.

Stressed microalgae 

In Iceland, the purest and longest-lasting astaxanthin is obtained from the cultivation ofHematococcus pluvialis in closed photobioreactors powered by renewable 100 % geothermal energy. Astaxanthin, an oil-soluble nutraceutical, is extracted from stressed microalgae, leaving behind a water-soluble fraction that was previously considered a waste product.

The company has developed an innovative process for recyclingHematococcus pluvialis depleted in astaxanthin, giving them new life in the form of Algaktiv Collage.

Algaktiv Collage harnesses the power of upcycled plant peptides, standardized in glycine, proline and hydroxyproline. These peptides serve as building blocks for the production of native collagen, promoting skin firmness and elasticity. 

Algaktiv Collage also contains spermidine, a natural activator of skin collagen synthesis, further enhancing its rejuvenating effects.

"At Algaktiv, we're driven by a passion for developing high-performance skincare solutions that deliver outstanding results while prioritizing sustainability, says Jordi Ayats, Director of Product Development. Algaktiv Collage represents the culmination of our deep understanding of skin biology and the evolving needs of consumers worldwide."

"Consumers are increasingly looking for natural, sustainable alternatives that deliver exceptional results. Algaktiv Collage, with its unique composition rich in plant collagen peptides and polyamine, meets this demand by harnessing the power of microalgae collagen amino acids to restore skin architecture and improve overall health."says Alexandre Lapeyre, Marketing Director.

The tests in vitro and clinical evaluations

The efficacy of Algaktiv Collage has been evaluated in clinical and in vitro studies.

In vitro tests show that Algaktiv Collage stimulates the production of native collagen in the dermis, resulting in an increase of 27.96 % at 0.5 % and 40.37 % at 1 %.

Algaktiv Collage offers hydration benefits comparable to those of hyaluronic acid, with a significant increase from 34 % to 0.5 %. The combination of 0.5 % hyaluronic acid and 0.5 % Algaktiv Collage increases hydration by almost 60 %.

Clinical evaluations of Algaktiv Collage also highlight its transformative effects on the skin.

A long-term study conducted with Algaktiv Collage 1% revealed a performance in restructuring the skin from within and forming the 3D matrix. After seven days, firmness and plumping were multiplied by 2.2 and 3.4 respectively, while hydration was multiplied by three after 28 days. Wrinkle reduction was visually significant.

A study conducted at 2 % demonstrated Algaktiv Collage's ability to hydrate throughout the day. Just one hour after application, hydration levels increased by almost 30 % compared with 7 % for a placebo. This superior performance was maintained for 24 hours.

The third clinical evaluation, carried out with Algaktiv Collage dosed at 3%, showed a notable 35 % increase in hydration after just 10 minutes, a significant improvement over placebo. Internal skin analysis showed intense, long-lasting hydration for up to 24 hours. The amino acid's rapid ability to bind to key skin elements, as hyaluronic acid does, and its ability to remodel the internal structure, helped reduce wrinkles by 14% after just 10 minutes.

Certified by Cosmos, Algaktiv Collage is derived from recycled microalgae grown in Iceland, is GMO-free and registered in China. It stands out for its high stability and ease of formulation, all toxicological assessments having been successfully completed.

"Our commitment to sustainable development goes beyond our product, adds Alexandre Lapeyre. We have developed a unique process for recycling microalgae. Haematococcus pluvialisThis reduces our environmental footprint and helps preserve marine resources.

The Botanical Alliance of the Croda International Plc. chemical group, bringing together Crodarom, the group's botanical expert, and Alban Muller International, has launched its first joint catalog, featuring over 250 botanical extract references. 

This pooling of the two offers follows the Group's acquisition of Alban Muller International. The aim is to strengthen the botanical dimension of its Personal Care expertise, and thus offer its customers an extended portfolio of natural solutions.

The catalog features several ranges made from a wide variety of carefully selected raw materials: botanical active ingredients with a performance and/or emotional dimension, high-tech ingredients and other multifunctional ingredients. The references are organized by properties, for greater convenience when searching.

The catalog is available on the Croda Personal Care.

Crodarom's analysis of beauty trends 2024

In the spring, Crodarom published its study of the beauty concepts that will be essential next year, the result of exhaustive research into trends and prospects in the cosmetics market. 

Freedoms take pride of place here, in all their forms, with ever more naturalness. Inclusivity and self-care are taking firm root, as is the trend for mind-body well-being. Responding to the specific needs of each individual, living new experiences, breathing new life into ancestral traditions - these are just some of the major trends that will be driving the market next year and beyond.

Crodarom offers three blog posts to explore these trends. The first article provides an overview, then the next two explore two major concepts in detail: 

• Geoskincare, cosmetics adapted to local climates, in a context of climate change, 
• Aura Beauty, which brings together the best of ancient traditions and knowledge with the latest scientific and technological advances.

A manufacturer of high-quality botanical extracts, active ingredients and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry, Lipoid Kosmetik designs vinegar-based products for skin and hair care applications.

Vinegar, a staple ingredient in many kitchens, has been used for centuries for its many health and beauty benefits. Its acidic properties make it a versatile and effective natural remedy for a variety of skin and hair care needs. Vinegar-based ingredients adjust pH and cleanse naturally, and are therefore perfectly suited to combating damaged, dull and unruly hair. In addition, vinegar is exfoliating and antimicrobial, making it equally beneficial in bath and skin care products.

Lipoid Kosmetik offers a versatile selection of vinegar-based products optimized for cosmetic use.

Cider VNGR+ and Rice VNGR+ are active ingredients. By combining a virtually alcohol-free vinegar and glycerine extraction system with the finest plant raw materials, the extracts are optimized for performance and efficacy.

Apple vinegar is made from fresh apples in a two-stage fermentation process. Production begins with apples from Swiss organic farming. Only very ripe fruit is selected, as it contains the maximum amount of sugars required for optimal fermentation. The fruit is mechanically pressed to produce a natural, unfiltered juice, which is then fermented into apple cider by adding water and yeast. The alcohol contained in the cider is then transformed into acetic acid through acetic fermentation by specific non-GMO bacteria. Lipoid Kosmetik uses this apple vinegar to produce high-quality vinegar-based ingredients for cosmetic applications.

Rice vinegar, Asia's most popular vinegar, is produced by fermenting rice into rice wine, then into rice vinegar in a second, acetic fermentation stage. High-quality rice is essential for the production of rice vinegar. The rice is carefully washed and steamed, then inoculated with micro-organisms responsible for breaking down the rice starch into smaller sugars, which are then converted into alcohol. Like apple vinegar, rice vinegar is rich in phenolic compounds and other fermentation products that bring a variety of benefits to skin and hair. Lipoid Kosmetik uses this traditional Asian vinegar and exploits its soothing and cleansing properties to create cosmetic ingredients for strong, radiant hair and clean, healthy skin.

The new Herbasol vinegar extracts are carefully selected fruit extracts combined with organic apple cider vinegar. All products in the range are 100 % natural, Cosmos-certified and preservative-free.

"Our vinegar-based products combine the benefits of botanical extracts, fermentation compounds and acetic acid and are ideal for a variety of skin and hair care applications."says Lipoid Kosmetik 

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Aiglon, France's only producer of vaselines, has enhanced its Naturelyn range with Naturelyn 500 B, Cosmos certified (organic).

This historic French producer innovated by creating the first Naturelyn in 2022, designed with 100 % of bio-sourced ingredients. In 2023, as part of its eco-responsible approach, Aiglon created the Naturelyn 500 B grade, which has just been Cosmos-Ecocert certified.

"Naturelyn 500 B has all the virtues of Aiglon Vaselines. It is a prodigious base for all dermo-cosmetic creams, balms, and for many cosmetic formulations."the company says.

Cosmos certification guarantees : 

• production and transformation processes that respect the environment and human health
• the development of the green chemistry concept
• responsible use of natural resources
• respect for biodiversity
• the absence of petrochemical ingredients (except authorized preservatives): parabens, phenoxyethanol, synthetic fragrances and colorants
• absence of GMOs
• recyclable packaging

Tailor-made grades 

Aiglon creates and develops "vaselines" made from biosourced ingredients, tailored to the specific needs of its customers.

Dermatological test

Dermatological tests have demonstrated the safety of Naturelyn and Naturelyn 500 B.

Naturelyn 500 B will be presented at the In-Cosmetics show in Bangkok from November 7 to 9, 2023.

_{Photo taken from www.aiglon.eu.}